Here's a stylish laser cut BeagleBone enclosure for those that want to give their new embedded computer a good home.

Just a simple sled that mount for a BeaglBone and a 400-point breadboard that's pretty useful for quick prototyping with the BeagleBone.

This will allow you to switch out the pedal on the speed controller of the G9928 flex shaft grinder for a speed dial. This is another thing that came out of me working toward my own CNC machine design, since I'd like fine grain control of the spindle speed but don't want to build a separate controller and obviously don't want to operate the pedal by hand (foot?).

The G9928 grinder (and similar grinders that appear to be from the same manufacturer) is reasonably priced and is more powerful, more versatile, lighter (at least the tool head part), and easier to mount compared to most other rotary tools. The only downside other than having to convert the speed controller to dial operation is the fact that the tool head has a little bit if play in it. Not a lot, but more than I'd like to see in my final spindle setup, so I'm working on addressing that as well.

These are two designs for Arduino carrier boards that you can mount an Arduino, breadboard, and battery holder(s) of your choice to. These are great if you want to run your Arduino project without being tethered to a wall or a PC and are great for Arduino classes, as you don't have to have a PC or wall wart for each participant.

The smaller version has space for a 400 point breadboard and your choice of either a 9-volt or AA/AAA battery pack. The larger version with space for a 830 point with both a 9-volt and AA/AAA battery pack (great for applications where you want to run servos or other devices off a separate power supply from you Arduino).

It's very important to let others know the hazards of operating dangerous equipment, especially automated equipment, and especially when specialized safety equipment may be necessary. This warning label lets people know to be careful around your laser cutter, lest they be blinded by awesome.

If you need two drive two steppers on a single axis (useful for some of the newer RepRap derivatives and some other CNC setups), this board allows you to drive two stepper controllers from a single output. You can use it with controllers that use the standard MakerBot style 6 or 10 pin connectors, making it compatible with older RepRap drivers and all newer stepper controllers that are compatible with MakerBot hardware.

These were made for a modular CNC setup that I'm currently developing. I've got a few spares if anybody's interested in grabbing a splitter or two.

If you're trying to throw together a Botmobile or similar RC setup on the cheap, you can make your own brushed DC speed controller out of the guts of an old servo. I modified the guts out of a Hobby King TGY-S4505B servo for Thingiverse user Luis to use with his Botmobile and turtle shell racer (seen here).

This set of parts adds a fume hood to your Cupcake CNC that's meant to be used along with the Cupcake "oven" covers:
thingiverse.com/thing:13937

There are holes for the filament feed, Z-rod access (for both left and right handed user), and a 3" port that you can hook up to the air handling solution of your choice (maybe this? thingiverse.com/thing:7152). It sets on the top bolts of the Cupcake for easy installation an removal.

More pics here:
flickr.com/photos/builttospec/6103855648/in/photostream

A few people in our Makerbot users group wanted a set of covers for their bots a while back, so I designed a set of laser cut PETG panels that covered the holes on the original Cupcake. I recently revisited the design after someone else wanted a ToM set so I decided to post the designs.

I solved the problem of closing up the front of the bot by creating a fold down door that secured with a couple magnets and utilized some drawer pulls I had on hand. Once the door and panels were installed on my bot, the entire thing looked kinda like an oven, hence the name. Appropriate for a Cupcake, right?

Rather than just preventing drafts from affecting your builds, these panels can also be used in conjunction with a specialized fume hood I designed (which will be posted soon along with ToM oven files) to manage the ABS fumes produced by a bot.

More pics here:
flickr.com/photos/builttospec/6103855648/in/photostream

Here's everything you need to convert a standard 7" hamster ball into a radio controlled (or potentially autonomous) ball of fury. I've also included plans for a simple stand for the thing so it doesn't roll away when not in use.

Video of the mechanics in operation:
youtu.be/-h-q-IdnQ3M

Videos of people driving them:
youtu.be/nPqL2h55Tgc
youtu.be/6X15eBpUSGU

This is a custom acrylic display case for showing off baked goods and such, commissioned (and photographed) by thingiverse user jestin. It's got 2 removable shelves and stands about 18" tall. If you're looking for an acrylic display case that's a little shorter and wider, you might want to check out this:
thingiverse.com/thing:10784

These are the files I've used to make some acrylic ToM case parts for people (pics by Thingiverse user Vooden). These are based on Rev E and are modified to use 1/4" (5.5mm) acrylic instead of wood, which includes minor tweaks to T-slot widths, stress relief in the T-slots, widening of certain components like the fan cover parts, and removal of the bridge on the power supply cutout, all to make it as crack/break resistant as possible.

I've been making some specialty laser cut vanity plates and needed an easy way to show them off, so I threw this stand together. I cut this version out of 1/4" ABS.

A quick project i threw together to light off some fireworks on the 4th using some easy to get switches and some laser cut parts. Check out my blog for build details:
built-to-spec.com/blog/2011/07/04/electronic-fireworks-ignition-system/

This is a simple wire spool that fits in most small tackle/hobby boxes so you can easily carry around several colors of jumper wire for prototyping.

I cut some mounting plates to use with the self adhesive LED strips that you can get relatively inexpensively online. They allow me to install and remove the lights easily on my Cupcake and prevent me from inadvertently ripping the strips off when the power cables get tugged on. The mounting bracket that is installed on the Z-axis also works on the Thing-o-Matic.

I've been wanting to learn a bit about character modeling so I headed over to Blender.org and checked out some tutorials. After a couple hours I came up with this! I kept the Makerbot in mind while modeling so no steep overhangs or "floating" segments, so it should print well for you. It has some flaws, but I'm pretty happy for a first attempt.

I've modified my derivative filament spindle design to accommodate for slightly thicker 1/4" acrylic and made some modifications to reduce the likelihood of "binary failures" including this modification for reducing stress on the t-slots (thanks to tinkerings for pointing this out to me):
blog.ponoko.com/2010/06/17/how-to-make-snug-joints-in-acrylic/

I needed something to store my rolls of vinyl so I threw this simple floor rack together with some cheap materials and stuff I had on hand.

Though this has been addressed before:
thingiverse.com/thing:1440
thingiverse.com/thing:4264
thingiverse.com/thing:4379

There wasn't a 2D representation that I could find easily for cutting on a laser cutter or paper cutter, so here it is!

Rob (tinkerings) asked me to make a crystal spool for his crystal Cupcake and I thought that I'd try to make a few improvements to:

1. Make the spindle easier to load and disassemble.
2. Improve the coupling in between the spindles and between the spindle and the bot.
3. Try to prevent binding by keeping the filament from getting under the the spool.

I've made the spindle case keyed so they lock together when stacked. I've also added a top tray that the Cupcake sits on that is keyed as well and has slots for the bolt heads on the side of the bot. You can pop the tray off easily to get to the spool, and the top of the spool is secured by a single M5 bolt so it's easy to disassemble to reload. I've also added some PETG fingers around the base of the spool in an attempt to prevent the filament from getting under the spool and binding.

We had an acquired a ton of cardboard shelving we didn't know what to do with at CCCKC, so I made some cardboard cows to give out at the KC Mini-Maker Faire, many of which were given away with our marshmallow gun kits as targets.

Here's one in the wild:
flickr.com/photos/cibomahto/4918545745/in/set-72157624662506693/

I've been making some specialty laser cut vanity plates and needed an easy way to show them off, so I sat down and threw this stand together in about 15 minutes. Simple but functional.

This design is a derivative of the Paxtruder-0.2:
thingiverse.com/thing:1125

My idler wheel cracked about 2 weeks ago so I though it would be a good time to experiment with the Paxtruder design a bit. I planned on making it a weekend project because I had plenty of acrylic around and I had some 1/2" thick acetal scrap to make a pusher but, unfortunately, I had to put in an order to McMaster to finish this guy so it didn't get completed till now.

I wanted a drop in replacement for my extruder hardware for testing that could utilize as much of my current MakerBot components as possible, and this design seems to fit the bill. You can use your existing dino mounts (both MK3 and MK4 designs should work) and extruter head hardware to mount this extruder and you can attach the extuder controller as you did with the idler wheel based design.

The small magnets used to couple the build platform to the y-axis are hard to find locally, so I created this build platform that uses the magnets that were readily available at the hacker space, throwie magnets!

Just in time for the holidays, here's a spider to print on your MakerBot! Print out a few for decorations or print out one and a ring in your size and glue together for some totally stereotypical Halloween jewelry!

This is my first designed+printed object (woot!), and I really wanted to make this truly 3D but I don't think I'll have the time between now and the 31st to do so. I think I'll try to make a version that prints out spider and ring in one go in the future as well.

Since my personal MakerBot should be up and running soon, I thought I take a stab at tweaking this awesome design a bit. I added a little stability with some feet out to the side (which eliminate the need for additional M8 bolts to hold the thing together) and added a comb made out of 1/16" PETG to put tension on the spool so it doesn't spin freely and unravel itself.

I wanted to make a cable rack even before krekr posted his design, but I wanted to make it clamp on to my workbench rather than be permanently attached. This derivative takes his design and adds clamps so I don't have to drill holes into whatever old computer desk I happen to be using as workbench at the time!

I've wanted to make something that incorporates a custom clamp and I also have been wanting to try to make some snap together parts for a while, so I incorporated both into this design. If you want to use something other than ABS to make these clamps though, it would be pretty easy to replace these snaps with T-slots for fasteners (which I might do anyway).

I don't have a whole lot of experience with the Arduino, but I find that I often use it as a platform to quickly prototype circuits and test out components. Since I've only got one, this generally means that I have to pull it from whatever project it happens to be currently connected up to use it for prototyping/debugging something else and hook it back up again later.

Because of this, I created this simple wiring harness so I can easily move my Arduino from one project to the next and back again with little hassle. You can freely insert jumper wires and devices with 0.1" headers with the shield on for prototyping. Then when you have the Arduino wired up how you like it, just clamp the jumper wires down to make it a little more permanent.

I also sometimes wire up miscellaneous connectors for prototyping, like the 15-pin PC joystick connector pictured, and I can connect those directly to the Arduino and not have to worry as much about accidentally pulling wires out as I'm connecting devices and moving them around with the shield installed. There's also plenty of space to access the reset button and the ISP header on my Duemilanove board should I need them.

This is the final version of the I-Hacked.com badge (art by surbo). This badge is modified slightly from the original design to house a bicolor LED (hevnsnt's awesome idea, not mine!) and to allow the battery tray to stay in place without any additional hardware (so it can be attached to other badges, etc.).

The battery tray also features a nice lip so the CR2025 won’t just fall out when you pull out the tray. This was done primarily to convince badge recipients that the battery only went in one way, as the bicolor LED was to remain an "undocumented feature". All badges had red/blue LEDs and started off red, but if you flipped the entire tray over and re-inserted it you’d have a blue badge. As many of you probably know, blues and reds don’t generally get along very well…