A basic woman made as a test using MakeHuman. makehuman.org/

I made this in an effort to explore printing the human form on my printer and to learn how to use MakeHuman.

The .obj file has the whole body while the .stl files are just torsos.

If you look at the .obj file it has jaw bones, teeth, eyes, and extra "joints" (little closed polyhedrons floating inside). I believe I removed all of those extra bits in the "***test2.stl" although they did not cause me problems when printing the "***test1.stl"

We had been printing the pink panther woman a few times, but sometimes women would ask why we didn't print any male forms. Yesterday nicholasclewis uploaded this wonderful model. The vertices were very much visible, so I subdivided them a few times and performed a smoothing operation in Meshlab (open source!). There are some other files by nicholasclewis that are not in this derivative post, so be sure to check out those, too!
The model is a little 'dirty' because I was still flushing out some black ABS which keeps coming out of the nozzle even after printing hundreds of grams of PLA. Also, this really made the extrusion less smooth than it could be.

One of our first "human" reconstructions made digital using hypr3d.com 's image-based 3D reconstruction.

Here is a handy tool for use when you need to transfer or compare an angle. Most of the time this type of tool is used for measuring, transfering and comparing 90 degrees. This version will go from 53 degrees (acute) to 306 degrees (obtuse).

A full size commerical layout tool I have is about 130mm per leg, this one is 100mm. Close enough with the added benefit of fitting into some locations where a shorter tool works better.

For woodworking, you could print up 4 of these, glue them fixed at 90 degrees and use them for angle squares on boxes, frames, etc. For such an application, you bar clamp (or web/band clamp) these assembly squares around your project for dry-fiting or final glue-up.

Mecanum wheels designed to fit onto low-cost ($3.40!) continuous rotation servos for a low cost rover/robot platform (less than $25?).

New video : youtube.com/watch?v=QE9Zacy5AdE
Newer Video with Chumby+iPhone+Android Love : youtube.com/watch?v=cB-6qN8dbVQ

Spraying on some "Plasti-Dip" seems to have improved traction greatly :- youtube.com/watch?v=-33-aXVN8e0

This is a bust version of the figurine that's available from here shapeways.com/model/164604/ (this link has more pretty pictures too). You can also get this version at shapeways.com/model/191205/.
It's about 9cm high.

I compiled this file to show the back surface of an iPad to allow easy setup for engraving artwork onto a device.

I compiled this file to show the back surface of an iPod Touch (first generation, I believe) to allow easy setup for engraving artwork onto a device.

Hello, I hope you enjoy my project! I designed it a couple of years ago thinking I would build it and sell it through ponoko.com but it turned out to be too expensive.

I have not built one yet, but according to my SolidWorks design and a little glue, everything should go to smoothly. If you build one let me know, I'd love to see it!

It is designed for .187 birch veneer plywood but could be made out of anything of the same thickness.

I can't believe they want $49 for that thing! I was originally going to make a derivative work from Todbot's laser-cut dock (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:798) but as I was reviewing the files I noticed a couple of things:
1. I don't like the idea of nuts/bolts scratching my desk
2. I don't like how the bolt heads stick out the top. I would prefer that they're flush or below the surface.
3. It seemed too light and too small for the phone
4. It relies too much on the dock connector for strength which will fail long-term (I think)

So I made a completely new dock. There are some drawbacks to this design though. The assembly requires some acrylic cement or superglue to join the bottom two pieces to each other and, if you like, to the top five pieces.

This dock is made to use the SHORT iPhone 3G connector (http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA591G/A?fnode=MTY1NDA0OQ&mco=MTM3NDk1NzI) that ships with the phone. The fit for the iPhone connector is VERY tight by design. I don't want it to wiggle around.

The dock is designed so that you can extricate your cable if necessary provided you don't glue parts together as in the optional step 8, below.

I like the look of Make magazine (http://makezine.com/) on my bookshelves but I wanted something to store them in that was similar to the holders I use for other magazines. Make's (and Craft's) unique form factor require a custom solution.

The images show the Make Magazine logo and cover art for each year. I'm assuming that I can't include the cover images in the files here but I downloaded them from Make's own website if you want to make them exactly like mine (http://makezine.com/covers/)

Each file is designed for a loose fit for gluing and has been sized to contain four issues (one year).

The Contraptor project is an opensource hardware prototyping / building framework created by myself and Vitaly Mankevich. You can read more about the Contraptor movement here:
Contraptor.org

This piece is an Dremel Flex mount. This is going to be used a the Z-Axis for a CNC machine. This mount is a VERY snug fit. This will not move at all. You have to slide the flex connector up so the top slide its then the rest will just "fit".

This little cut-out stage has sides the same size as the build volume of the MakerBot. Printing it out will give you a little stand-up stage illustrating the volume a MakerBot will print in, along with a reference of the extrude thickness.

A more sophisticated version of this file, with more text and some known printable and known unprintable shapes would be a valuable tool to people trying to get a sense of the power of the tool.

A hook with a bearing to suspend a basket of plastic to feed a RepRap machine. Full details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/sky-hook.html

I was organizing my room today and needed a place to hang my shorts near my bed. The hook just uses an elliptical hole in the side of the bed frame and rests naturally.

Total project time from idea to reality to the internets: 25 min.

After having some difficulties with the Plastruder MK3 which comes with the MakerBot, I decided to try to print a better (i.e. more reliable) extruder with and for my MakerBot.

The design was inspired by the "Thermoplast Extruder Version 2.0" from the RepRap project and by photos I saw of Nophead's "Fast extruder" .

(Update: There's now a 4th part to print: InsulatorRetainer.stl)

This is a knob for a desk lamp, but it could work with other things as well. I've included a version with and without a hole, so you can make it fit any size of shaft.

It is 5 cm in diameter and 2cm thick. The hole is 1cm deep and 6 mm wide.

I know people have already experimented with this a bit but I thought it would be nice to have a slightly more elegant solution to the problem of mounting a pen or pencil or brush or whatever to the Makerbot (before I had just hot-glued a marker to my extruder).

*Just updated it with an extra piece that you can print and strap on with rubber bands that allows the pen/tool to travel slightly, allowing better contact with the surface. It does this while still allowing the pen to be picked up off of the surface when you need to start a new line.

This is the final version of the I-Hacked.com badge (art by surbo). This badge is modified slightly from the original design to house a bicolor LED (hevnsnt's awesome idea, not mine!) and to allow the battery tray to stay in place without any additional hardware (so it can be attached to other badges, etc.).

The battery tray also features a nice lip so the CR2025 won’t just fall out when you pull out the tray. This was done primarily to convince badge recipients that the battery only went in one way, as the bicolor LED was to remain an "undocumented feature". All badges had red/blue LEDs and started off red, but if you flipped the entire tray over and re-inserted it you’d have a blue badge. As many of you probably know, blues and reds don’t generally get along very well…

I made this bike mount at my good friend's request. The mount is fairly heavy duty. The estimated cost is $0.80 of ABS material at $0.02 per cc. I printed it with a honey comb structure making it strong for vertical compression. As a tip, I recommend coating the mount with epoxy for easy clean up and then paint it with a "Sharpie". Enjoy.

A stand for your laptop that raises the screen to a height that is better for your posture. The cantilever design allows space to place documents and other items keeping your desk free of clutter.

Overall dimensions w 360mm d 300mm h 170mm. Perfect for a Macbook Pro 15".

Requires some assembly and I recommend gluing it together to guarantee rigidity. Laser kerf not taken into account for this design.

Can be made on any 1/4inch/6mm material.

Download it, hack it, sell it, do what ever. Send me pictures if you do make it.

A member from CCCKC approached me over a month ago wanting to make some special promotional badges for Defcon. They wanted something like these (http://inventgeek.com/Projects/Laser-Fab-LED-Necklace/overview.aspx) but wanted to keep the form factor of their previous badges (luggage tag size, basically). This is the first prototype version of the resulting LED badges.

These badges are glued together, so they don’t have any protruding fasteners, but the battery can easily be replaced (the LED can as well but that’s a little harder). The battery door is meant to be kept in place with a key ring or badge clip, but seems to stay in place with friction on the prototypes. I’ve included both 3mm (if you’re using 1/8” acrylic) and 5mm (for 1/4" acrylic) LED templates. If you want a thinner badge, use the 3mm LED version, but be warned that warping can be an issue if you etch it too deep. I have black acrylic in hand so the back and middle sections of the badges are cut from that, but there’s nothing stopping you from making the entire thing out of clear acrylic.

A set of drawers to compliment the 'cupcake'

This is hacked up from some box-o-tron outputs. It's the same size as the cupcake and has one big, two small drawers and a bench on top.

Every body knows that cupcakes need sprinkles.


This has not been built ; still in prototype.

Hi all,

I thought that SketchUp users may appreciate a plugin that makes the exporting of 3D models to 2D vector graphics a bit easier. The plugin (ruby scripts) allows the user to select SketchUp faces and export the oulines of these faces to a Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) file.

The plugin was developed to help with constructing designs for laser cutting, but I know of people who use it for CNC routing as well.

This latest version of the plugin hasn't been tested with any laser cutting yet (I'm working on some designs at the moment), but I know how Thingiverse users like to be on the bleeding edge ;-P

This is a spinoff from my boxotron software. It creates a dxf for a paper box.

I was just going to alter the boxotron script but ended up rewriting the majority of it.

The box design was shamelessly stolen from 4Volt ( thingiverse.com/thing:254 ) Thanks 4Volt !

It is only good for thin card ( for now ) as the insets and offsets for thicker material are not calculated.

Much like the boxotron this is a command line program , run ./cardbox.py -h for more information

This is an acrylic laser business card that assembles into a functional set of acrylic metric/imperial callipers, with a vernier scale accurate down to 1/20th of a mm***. Due to the size constraints of the business cards, I didn't have much room left for instructions on the card. I plan on making some screened envelopes with a 3d blowapart rendering of the unit assembly.

This file still needs some polish, but is fully functional. I was hoping to work on it a little longer before releasing it, but came across thingiverse.com/thing:782 the other day, and figured it was about time to stop trolling and register :)

Please excuse the temporary cameraphone snaps, the good camera is at a cottage for a few more days :)

----------------
UPDATE

Caliper.006 - cut files set to work with a VLS 3.60 60W

Caliper.007 - cut files adjusted to slightly looser on the friction fit.






*** depends on the accuracy of your laser cutter ;)