Sloths are awesome. Here's a poker chip-sized coin with a sloth icon.

(Not legal tender.)

Uses file "noun_project_656.dxf"
Converted from original SVG file
Sloth icon from The Noun Project
thenounproject.com/noun/sloth/#icon-No656
Designed by Gabriel Gomez
Public Domain

This is a collaboration with Tim Pool timcast.com and Geoff Shively twitter.com/Jiraffa. They use 3G hotspots for live video streaming and they often overheat and stop working, so they wanted some way to cool the hotspot.

So we sat down and designed this thing in less than an hour and printed it out for testing the next day. Rapid prototyping FTW!

This thing is a holder which allows you to attach a standard 80mm computer fan to the hotspot for cooling.

The prototype has been used covering both the Republican and Democratic national conventions during the heat of summer and seems to work pretty well.

A few notes:

The grid on the bottom doesn't need to be so tight, and only serves to block airflow. My next revision will make fewer larger holes. The grid doesn't actually need to be there at all unless you need to protect the hotspot from foreign objects.

The smaller holes in the middle of each side were intended for a setscrew to hold the hotspot in place, but I don't think they're necessary. You can hold it all together with tape or rubber bands.

Most everything is adjustable in the OpenSCAD file, but has not been tested for extreme values.

I have cabinets in my bathroom that were made by Ikea. I got some cool feet that screwed on to the bottom. We re-did the bathroom and put in title, but that meant that the legs were now just a bit too long.

Unfortunately, they don't make the cabinets or feet any more, I don't think. I don't want to throw away my cabinets just because the feet are an inch too long.

So I modeled up feet that slip on over the threaded rod (no threads - might be in version 3). And this way we get a choice of colors!

An idea for a corner gluing clamp brace. Using two, you can hold three pieces of material into a corner with clamps. The edges are chamfered on the outside and there is a groove on the inside to keep the braces away from the joint (and glue). There are holes in the sides for spool clamps (such as thingiverse.com/thing:10448).

I'm designing a DIY ukulele and wanted to try to print the nut and bridge. PLA is hard enough that it might make a good material for it.

Design is based on the Stewart Macdonald soprano ukulele kit nut. The OpenSCAD file is parametric and has some attempts at shaping the nut in the traditional manner.

I love my Sodastream Penguin carbonator. But the neck of the glass jars are kind of narrow for pouring from my Brita water filter.

So I needed a funnel. Which I made to fit the bottle just right.

Sodastream makes home drink carbonators and they use metal takes for the CO2, which come with green plastic caps to protect the threads (which are mostly but not quite exactly standard CO2 fittings). The caps are easily lost or broken, and the are a generally awful green color (not unlike Thingiverse's STL renderer's default color).

We got an adjustable shower shelf unit for the bathroom from Target, and the plastic foot to protect the tub from the end of the rod was missing. So I made a simple foot.

8-bit heart pendant with the CRASH Space logo etched on it.

CRASH Space is a hackerspace in Los Angeles - crashspace.org

Saw a papercraft version of this - howaboutorange.blogspot.com/2012/02/diy-pixel-heart-necklace.html - and thought that was too much work! Especially since it looked like lasercut acrylic or 3D printed ABS to me.

Inspired by the papercraft figures on cubeecraft.com - a very blocky action figure.

Everybody needs a Mickey Mouse hat, including Walt Disney. This should be sized for the full-sized Walt Disney's Head (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:751). I printed it at 75% (45 mm inner diameter) because that's how big I printed the head.

It's pretty parametric so you can make it whatever size you need.

When I upgraded CRASHbot to the Gen 4 electronics, I ended up running a number of wires through the square hole at the top of the right side of the bot, but then they rubbed against the threaded rod. I designed this grommet to sit in the hole and guide the wires away from the rod. It ended up fitting snuggly enough that I didn't even need to use the screws I put in holes for!

I added a slot so that the wires could be fed into the piece without having to re-run them.

The OpenSCAD file is somewhat parametric, but there's a lot of trial-and-error by hand in there. You'll need the DXF file (taken from the Cupcake source) to make it work.

We tried to make a pyramid with three CRASHspace 3D Logo (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1770) last night to make a CRASHspace hologram, but it didn't work out too well. But why not just print one?

We use fellow crasher Jerry Isdale's 3D Logo (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1770) for give-aways and for the monthly MakerBot 101 class at CRASHspace. I was trying to make a pyramid with it in OpenSCAD, but it wasn't rendering right because some of the normals are flipped. So I fixed it in MeshLab. The original prints just fine, so this isn't necessarily a replacement. But you may need this to create any derivatives.

I liked MrJohn's Nickel Calibration Test (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11215) but I wanted to use a larger coin, like a Golden Dollar. Also, it's a very simple thing so I figured a an OpenSCAD version was in order.

It's parameterized with adjustable amount of outer margin and slop around the coin.

I've also created a STL file for a dollar coin.

A super simple thing that I was surprised wasn't already here.

Spool clamps are used by luthiers to build violins and other stringed instruments. Typically they're made from a hardwood dowel with a threaded rod trilled through the center, with cork or leather lining the jaws. They're great for clamping the edge of things without having to worry about the orientation of the clamp.

They cost about $4 each at a luthier supplier, which doesn't seem too much but you really need a couple dozen of them for any real project, and that starts to add up quickly. Everyone says that it isn't any cheaper to make your own, but I figure plywood disks and carriage bolts are cheaper than that. And I have a project I can use them on.

Two 1" disks. One has a 0.26" hole in it for a 1/4" bolt. The other has a 0.26" square to fit the square end of a carriage bolt. I'm providing the OpenSCAD script and DXF files for each disk.

I needed a way to mount a laser to an L bracket for a lunchbox laser light show project (http://laserlunchbox.com/LunchboxLaser_08_kh.pdf). I designed it in OpenSCAD to fit the laser module I have, and to fit the 5/8" bracket I had. It's somewhat parametric though it has some issues when scaled outside the intended size. The mounting holes are teardrop shaped to facilitate printing, using a simplistic teardrop module I created (there are better teardrop modules on Thingiverse, but it is included for completeness). If the holes are an issue (they were for me), they can be commented out.

It's designed with a small slit and tabs which can be clamped together with a M3 bolt, nut, and a couple washers.

OpenSCAD script that generates a 3D box of user-defined interior dimensions. The boxes have an interior throat which the lid sits on (hence the name). The length of that throat can be controlled, as can the general thickness of the sides.

I created this to make a small gift box.

I wanted to make a bar that had different thicknesses. This OpenSCAD script lets you set a starting thickness and step size for four different sizes. The length of the bar is also definable. The uploaded script has 5, 10, 15, and 20 mm steps in a 50mm long bar.

Might also make a good test object as you know five dimensions.

Like thingiverse.com/thing:8188 this was designed for the pd-LAunch, the kick-off of a Los Angeles based patching circle (for patching languages like Pure Data and Max/MSP). We flirted with the idea of having name badges for participants, and I decided to make a customizable Pd message box for it. The OpenSCAD script and STL are set to put "bang". "bang" is a special Pd message that makes thing go. The picture is of some "pd-la" messages - pd-la is the name of our patching circle. You can change the message to say other things. It won't automatically resize the box for longer messages yet, but I'm working on that.

Also, some fine details (like the 'a') don't show up for our MakerBot. The size of the text can be tweaked to help with it, though it is plenty readable this way.

I'm calling this type 1 because there are two other variations that I've made and are on their way. This was the best hand-out for our event.

Designed for pd-LAunch, the kick-off of a Los Angeles based patching circle (for patching languages like Pure Data and Max/MSP). We had a series of videos of Miller Puckette lectures we wanted to be able to distribute on USB stick. I designed this enclosure as a special edition version of the stick.

The stick is shaped like a message box in Pd, and can be modified with any message text. "bang" is a special Pd message that makes things go. "pd-la" is the name of our patching circle.

I designed these on ViaCAD, but exported DXF files of each part. The Corel Draw file has all the parts together, and is what I actually used on the laser cutter.

pd-la.info/2011/04/pd-la-usb-stick/

I went to a costume party dressed as Max Fischer from the Wes Anderson movie Rushmore, and thought his lapel pins would be a nice touch. So I made some to be cut on the laser cutter.

I love the Pac Man Ghosts (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4500) but I don't think anyone has uploaded a Pac Man! So here we are. Scaled to match the ghosts. I also made a half-thick version because I have been printing skinny ghosts (they look better to me that way).

Make your own action figure for the classic Sci-Fi film 2001: A Space Odyssey!

This is an OpenSCAD script for a scalable version of the TMA-1 (or -2 or -3) from the 2001: A Space Odyssey series. It is automatically rotated into a printable position for the MakerBot or other 3D printer.

Not the first Monolith on Thingiverse (see RedPrince's thingiverse.com/thing:4990) but it seemed a good excuse to learn more about OpenSCAD.

A clamp to hold the MakerBot Z platform in place while moving/shipping. It's intentionally undersized to be snug.

Printable mount for the MakerBot Industries relay board to go on top of one of the Cupcake stepper controller boards. MBI has a kit for this (http://store.makerbot.com/accessories/relay-board-mount-kit.html) with a nifty laser-cut octagon wood mount, which is elegant and cheaper than buying the hardware yourself. But if you happen to have a MakerBot, plus some extra standoffs and long screws on hand, you can print one.

I came up with overlapping squares instead of a octagon because the two boards are not the same size. If you want the octagon, Jamesdavid has a parametric mount (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4241) that has built-in standoffs. And of course, Charles Pax's original design is available (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4141).

I've provided two versions - one with screw holes and one without. I'm having trouble getting the screw holes to print nicely, so plan on drilling them after printing.

(I added the Blender and ViaCAD project files. The main shape was created in ViaCAD 7, and then imported into Blender. Look on the different Blender layers for the piece in different forms/stages.)

I designed this as an anniversary present for my wife. Meant to be a printable cameo (even though it's essentially flat). It is modeled after my Chihuahua Bowser.

A fingerwheel for a M8 threaded rod (like the MakerBot Z rod), with space to add a M8 nut. I plan to add this to the CRASH Space MakerBot as a manual Z-axis control, and to use it for a leveling platform idea I'm working on.

Inspired by Antona's 4-Star Knob For M8 Nut (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723), I used zignig's Finger Wheel OpenSCAD script (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3288), tweaked it a bit, then added a larger shaft and carved out space for the M8 nut.

Put this on a rod, lock a second nut next to it, and you can spin the rod all day without it unscrewing from the rod.

Probably an unneeded solution to a non-problem. When I installed the Heated Build Platform on the MakerBot, I ran the cables from the extruder over the top of the bot, down the back to the HBP. I didn't like the way the cables sat on the z belt. Instead of running the cables through the inside of the machine, I designed a doohickey to support the cables and protect the belt.

The bottom notch prints just fine for me. I could have modeled the bottom endcap in place, but I have an almost pathological attraction to symmetry.