This is a parametric version of FdS' flex-box.
You can edit the file using your favorite text editor (notepad, vi, emacs, pico) to change the height, width, and length of the box. Then send the file to your laser cutter and you will have yourself an awesome little box.

edit: v 1.1 some clean-up and bug fixes

It's a trophy for the winner!

A heart shaped box you can cut out and fill with something nice for your sweetie... Just in time for Valentine's Day

Procedurally-generated panpipes for 3D printing. They really whistle, but they aren't particularly accurately tuned. OpenSCAD file included.

It'll theoretically play a chromatic scale (12 notes to the octave) but it's too squeaky to know for sure!

After I added the tapered mouthpiece to the whistles, and with the hotdog-red ABS, these things remind me of a toy wienermobile I used to have. Thus the name.

This panflute is slightly more practical than the one it's derived from. The curved shape is easier to use than the circle, and I added a bit of taper to the mouthpiece to make it easier to blow on a single whistle. Still not a practical musical instrument, though!

This one has a diatonic scale (CDEFGABC) instead of chromatic like the other one. I had to learn the OpenSCAD lookup() function for that!

This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

This is a cute little fire truck I did as a Facebook challenge.

Some users have found that the rafts generated by common toolpath generators are wasteful of material and difficult to remove. cptnAWESOME found that it is easier to add raft-like features to .stl files prior to passing them to a toolpath generator, as in thingiverse.com/thing:16596.

This script performs this function automatically and uniformly, so that designers can distribute files in a form that is as machine- and technology-independent as possible. The user can then apply whatever preprocesseing steps are necessary to ensure the best print characteristics on her machine.

This thing is based on the Cuboro Marble track, but I didnt have one when I drew the pieces. The track is 22mm diameter and all turns are 22mm radius too.
Feel free to add new parts.

A simple holder of 6 toothbrushes. Fits most standard toothbrushes and keeps them off the countertop

Tweaked meirm's Stackable Polygons to:

1) Make the OpenSCAD code more parametric and commented (i.e. replaced numbers with variables and equations).
2) Made the ends of the 'bones' rounded, to make them easier to slide onto the 'polygons'.

Meirm did the hard math, and the polygons were already parametric (number of slots).

Attached are STL files for polygons with 6 and 8 slots, and 'bones' length 20 mm and 40 mm.

This is a box I made for exposing photoresist-coated PCBs to ultraviolet light. It's what Kelly used to make the PCB connector for the thermal printer [1]. I used scavenged parts, so I can't give a list of everything I used in making it. You can find more information for this box and photo etching on our wiki [2].

[1] nycresistor.com/2009/10/13/thermal-printer-success/
[2] wiki.nycresistor.com/wiki/Photoresist_PCB_Etching

MakerBot Industries now sells filament on spools! Here is a spool holder you can mount on you Thing-O-Matic or Cupcake CNC in place of any rod cover.

You should also print the spool housing to keep you filament nice and tidy. thingiverse.com/thing:8762

If you want to stack two spools, checkout tbusers Spool Stacker thingiverse.com/thing:9198

Order the Botmobile Kit from the MakerBot Store at store.makerbot.com/makerbot-botmobile.html and you'll have all the parts you need to get your printed Dune Buggy going in no time!

The wind in your hair... The sun on your face... The sand in your teeth... Everyone loves a day out cruising the dunes in their trusty Botmobile Dune Buggy!

The Botmobile Dune Buggy is an open source 3d printed remote control car that you can build at home. Using the Botmobile chassis the Dune Buggy was built from the ground up as a completely new type of remote control car

See video of the Botmobile Dune Buggy in action: youtu.be/tQIfChZZTog

build structure out of parametric stackable polygons.

Build a name plate with any text!

OpenSCAD script allowing you to define the text and the script will generate a nametag.

Tophat not included!

Mr Clicky is your desktop friend. Design and make him custom arms, legs and hats. :)

He stands aprox 240mm high when assembled (he's BIG). If you want to print him you might need to play around with the file a little; he's very intricate (thin walls, hollow) and was designed for and made using SLS at shapeways. If you scale him down and do a print please show me! I'd love to see.

If you must have your own Mr Clicky but can't print him, I'll be putting him on shapeways shortly. :)

This is a sculpture from my recent solo show, "Tomorrow Land"! You can read all about the meaning of the work here: rhgallery.com/site/exhibitions/tomorrowland/tomorrowland_pressrelease.pdf

This sculpture commemorates the end of the shuttle program. The shuttle silhouette is cut out of a cemetery. Pour one out for this retired work-horse!

It's art so it's not "for" anything other than to impress your friends with your well-developed cultural palette.

This is a sculpture from my recent solo show, "Tomorrow Land"! You can read all about the meaning of the work here: rhgallery.com/site/exhibitions/tomorrowland/tomorrowland_pressrelease.pdf

What's important is this sculpture features the silhouette of William Shatner cut out of a landscape.

It's art so it's not "for" anything other than to impress your friends with your well-developed cultural palette.

This is a sculpture from my recent solo show, "Tomorrow Land"! You can read all about the meaning of the work here: rhgallery.com/site/exhibitions/tomorrowland/tomorrowland_pressrelease.pdf

This is a variation on the first sculpture (also on Thingiverse). What's important is this sculpture features the silhouette of William Shatner cut out of a landscape.

It's art so it's not "for" anything other than to impress your friends with your well-developed cultural palette.

This is a slightly more challenging variant of Dovetail Triangle that only opens when held in a certain orientation.

Watch the video for a demonstration:

youtube.com/watch?v=JnMRREjfPyc

Getting ready for a Replicator, I converted Ian West's very nice model of the original Enterprise sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=f929ce0f38813f409c8b57ff1ee97f7b&prevstart=0 to STL. It made it through Skeinforge just fine, so I think it'll print (with external support material).

I designed this broder based on mraisers design for sublimes 3d printed game tiles. Like mraisers mine interlocks using dovetails, My border however is thinner and has a nicely beveled edge. Future design changes will include integrated card holders.

7cm golf tee

This piece was inspired by some artwork at my friend's house, hence I am naming it after her :)

It is a beautiful piece which will confuse most people the first time they see it, as they try to figure out which part leads to where and how!

Alligator clip

My daughter loves cats and she deserved a bit of perking up. So I located this cat at google 3D warehouse (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=972da4041c943a46ba7a4b1c1178ff37&prevstart=0)

The creater ("piper") did all the great drawing work. I just converted and printed it.

I will leave the license at Attribution (to Piper - not me) unless corrected.

A cute creature of an unknown species! Somewhat like a teddy bear and a tater tot.

Yes, this is a fully functional 8-bit big money piggy bank! My 3yr old daughter need a safe place to keep all her high-stakes rock/paper/scissors winnings. She sat down with me in-front of a clean Sketchup session and we began to construct a piggy bank that Mario would approve of.

Check my screen shots, I uploaded a plethora of images including object dimensions.

I printed this in ~6hrs using no support on my Thing-O-Matic's ABP.

My RIG:
TOM # 4890
MK6+
1.75mm
.4 nozzle
ABP with aluminum plate topper and titanium belt covered in kapton

Gerber files for Thingomatic Heater Board v1.1 for batchpcb.com. These are simply the eagle files to make a printed circuit board from the original, now repackaged as gerber for your convenience.

I have made two of these boards so far and have no issues. I use zephpaste store.makerbot.com/solder-paste-kit-1.html
and a hot plate to solder the smt parts on and then do the bigger parts with a soldering iron. The marking on the led points to the left when looking at the back side of the board and the pads are at the top. Also set your pid to 4198 in repg.

Batchpcb link:
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=75674&check=7675fc8c08809ae83e08e37efd4509a2