UPDATE: Fixed a few lines of code which made things wonky if you change the dimensions of the walls.

Inspired by Nophead, I wanted to implement his ideas for Mendel90 into a printer design. I made an OpenSCAD script to generate the mount for his linear bearings. Hope it comes in handy to someone.

Check out NopHead's blog. Its the best!
hydraraptor.blogspot.com/

My design could be significantly optimized, but it does work.

This Thing was made using Trimentional for iPhone and blender to combine the two objects into one.

One side has a fist and the other is my face. :) I still have not figured out the optimal settings fro taking Trimentional scans, but it still looks really cool printed out.

Requires Mac OS 10.6
Will not work in 10.7
This is a Cocoa Kinect application for Mac OSX. The application does not require any additional files or installation. Simply plug in a Kinect Sensor into your Mac and run this application. Once loaded the window will display a Mesh of the data being seen by the Kinect.

This application was created by fernLightning:
fernlightning.com/doku.php?id=randd:kinect

I've modified their application to add the ability to export the Depth data to a PLY point cloud file. Enjoy!

NOTE: The Source Code is posted! :)

The Save STLB button creates the best mesh for printing. STLB stands for STL Binary. Make sure you open the mesh in MeshLab and then resave it. This cleans the file and makes it readable by Skeinforge.

UPDATE 5-7-2011: I've added the ability to export both ASCII STL and Binary STL files with a complete mesh. It turned out to be simpler than i thought. Also there are sliders to limit the depth values. You can set minimum and maximum depth values. The detail can also be limited. '0' detail is maximum, while '10' will result is a very low resolution mesh. The best way to figure out the effects is to try it out. Please post comments about other improvement requests. :) BUG: The Binary STL export works, but for some reason will crash some applications. To fix this load into MeshLab, unify duplicate vertices and then resave the STL.
UPDATE 5-8-2011: Ive addressed some bugs and improved the Binary STL export. Should export a much cleaner mesh.
UPDATE 5-15-2011: Fixed export feature some more, and cleaned up the code.
UPDATE 6-14-2011: Uploaded Source Code.

Just a Portal Sentry Turret made in OpenSCAD. The design is still lacking the legs, but ill add them soon. Enjoy!

I plan on making my own curtains in the near future and designed this as the knob piece for the ends of the curtain rods. Simple, yet elegant.

The part is first printed, then an initial layer of spray paint is applied. They now make spray paints which can not only apply a metallic look but also apply a rough metallic feel. Just as reference, here is a spray paint for a stone look:
rustoleumspraypaint.com/sites/default/files/stone-mineral-brown.png

Search for "Curtain Rod Ends" if you are curious about what im talking about.

Note: No laughing at my OpenSCAD skills. Im learning :P

Bold Note: I have not assembled or built one of these and only used the original PSMD board as reference to try and make things fit. The capacitor and jumper switches under the Polulu may or may not fit. Also, i changed the connector for the stepper to a standard 0.1" header.

This is simply a manipulation of the PSMD Triple Axis Driver by 'tinkerings'.
The idea is that it replaces the need for 5 stepper boards using the Gen 4 Makerbot electronics and replaces it with only one board. (Not counting the 5 pololu boards).


The first step for me was to recreate the previous version with an additional 2 stepper drivers. Next step is to make the connector a 30-pin ribbon so i can create custom boards for various controllers. :P

Note: Some Pololu drivers can operate at 3.3V and 5V...just saying. :) The end stop connectors on A and B is for experimental purposes. I know it consumes unnecessary pinnage, but you never know what it may be used for...encoder? :)

UPDATE #1: Thanks for the tips Protonite! I've added some changes that some people may like, and some may find it really annoying. :) I changed the 10 pin connector to a 6 pin connector, like on the Makerbot boards. I've axed the Max Endstop for good measure. The Makerbot motherboard has 2 pins unused. I added VCC and Minumum Endstop signal to these pins. It should not affect the Makerbot Motherboards compatibility. Ive added both the PC Power Supply plug, and a screw terminal connection. There is also a switch added so you can turn off the Voltage to the motors without powering down the supply completely. Useful for servicing the stepper boards. I appreciate the input advice! I think the new layout looks pretty sick, and i cant wait to get a working version made. :)

Compatibility:
Makerbot Motherboard; Stepper Motors require standard 0.1" header

This is a model for mounting a Digital Indicator or Height Gauge from Harbor Freight. It can either be mounted on the X axis rails or on the carriage of your Reprap Mendel.

The idea behind this instrument is that you print the bracket, and mount onto the X carriage on a Mendel. The rod is then dropped into the bracket and allowed to drag across the surface of the build platform. As the rod is dragged across the surface, it will extend and retract depending on the current height per location on the platform. This is a simple and cheap alternative to a Height Gauge. The resolution is limited as compared to an authentic height gauge, but i suspect is a worthy alternative.

So i have been dreaming of this design for a while, but certain parts are still left to conquer. Hopefully someone out there can help. I have provided the OpenSCAD model in order to speed things up. Its \"parameterized\" so you simply change variable values and you get a whole new container!

The concept here is that the object is printed with the right size and spec to your phone. You then cut and sew together an elastic band. Let it be known that i do not have any real prior experience with sewing, so if i can do it, you can too. :)

Potential Future Mods: Round mounting profile so its more comfortable to wear, walls that curve in to lock in phone, completely sealed case to protect from rain and spills.

I look forward to seeing other peoples ideas!

Click to see an album of the print and other detailed images:
flickr.com/photos/cidvilas/sets/72157623863202831/

Simple dust remover that fits over standard Makerbot Cupcake CNC Plastruder. Simply print and stick two pieces of Dish washing sponge cut to size with the soft part facing the filament and presto chang-o! Clean filament enters the extruder. You can also fill the sponge with your favorite oil compound for use with PLA.

This is a yet to be completed enclosure for a Makerbot Cupcake controller. I see it using a relatively powerful microcontroller, some tactile buttons, "nokia knock-off" display from sparkfun, and some tactiles. Preferably have it tap into the power of the makerbot motherboard.

Sketchup file is provided for additional hacking! :) Enjoy!

This is a headphone Owl Wrap for the stock Nexus One headphones. It wraps quite nicely and even accomodates for the "controls" inline with the cord.

Rendering Engine is down, visit the following Flickr page for some eye-candy!
flickr.com/photos/cidvilas/sets/72157623323386728/

This part simply holds your phone for a "desktop" mode. This will probably work for many other phones, but i have only tested with the Nexus One.

Im sure you can cut a hole in the bottom and slip a power cord in, but it wont be as simple as dropping a phone in and lifting it out.

Approximate build time: 3 hours +/- 0.5 hour

GCode has been provided as a reference, but is probably not compatible with your particular printer.

Here is a modified version of Zach's Plastruder design. These layers replace the ones inside the MK4 plastruder to help guide the Idler Wheel. This keeps it straight and on target. I have managed to crush filament without so much as a crack on the acrylic idler wheel.

I still wouldnt recommend crushing filament just because you can...but this will atleast keep you from replacing an idler wheel every so often.

NOTE* The rendering engine on Thingiverse makes the files appear wobbly, but when loaded into the proper software they should show perfectly round.

I'm sure there are alternative solutions to the problem, but this was my approach. This extruder design removes the possibility of plastic flowing into the threads between the PTFE and Brass barrels and pushing the brass rod out.

This design redirects the force from the filament into the Washer which is supported by the Plastruder assembly. This makes it much stronger then the threads of the PTFE barrel. Atleast thats the idea.

Please feel free to discuss and comment.

Hopefully this will lead to a more robust extruder!

Update: Added the new minimal additoinal machining design concept with an embedded M6 nut between the upper and lower PTFE barrels.

This is a derivative of the filament spindle made by Erik on Thingiverse.

This is designed to operate along side the Makerbot rather then the RepRap. Because the Makerbot Cupcake CNC does not have the same structure that the RepRap does, the original design does not work. By attaching the stand we now have a standard spindle which works with any system.

Problems that still need to be addressed:
- Spindle spins so freely that the filament itself would probably unwind itself slowly. In the future i would like to add a screw that can be tightened which adds friction to the sides. Keeping the spindle from spinning 'too' freely.
- The Spindle is slightly underweight and with enough lateral force could topple. To address this issue simply attach something heavy to the base. Or add an additional acrylic piece perpendicular to the current stand to increase the base size.

Ladies and Gents! Meet the bull! For the Air Softer. This is designed to snugly fit onto a HFC "M190 Special Force" airsoft pistol.
The M190 has a simple rail below the barrel. This component will slide on, and lock in place. This is designed to hold 'laser pointers' with an average width 17mm or flash light with similar dimensions.

This is a multi-tool design. Once assembled you can hold scissors, allen wrenches, and various other tools by hanging it off the side of your Cupcake CNC.

The newly designed MadScientist TestTube Stand! Now with a unibody design! This stand will keep your test tubes nice and stationary while you take care of business and save the world from crazy diseases and body odors!
Just print this out and begin experimenting!

Designed for 18mm diameter test tubes.

If you are a MadScientist with the need to store some crazy strong chemicals in Test Tubes on your desktop...then you are in luck! Heres you chance to own a MadScientist TestTube Stand! Just print and enjoy!

Designed for 18mm diameter test tubes.

In honor of the Cupcake CNC. I believe it to be printable. I did not make a window because of the overhang, but you can paint on the details. Enjoy!

The original shot glass was not to size. I did a little more research and came up with this version. It is the exact dimensions used by a catering company. Check out the images supplied. There are some details about the dimensions and size of the build. Enjoy :)

Generic Skull
The curves seem to be gentle enough to print on a Cupcake CNC by MakerBot Industries. Gah...I want a working Cupcake CNC already! Soon. :)

Update: I split this in Skeinforge and there are a few parts on the upper jaw which hang just a bit. This is the only part that may not print properly. The rest of the skull should "in theory" work.

Note: The CorelDraw file contains 2 pages. Each page is a seperate piece. I titled the pages by material thickness.

This is a build platform which i redesigned using the concepts provided by Zach Hoeken for the Cupcake CNC and other people through out the community. I do not have a working MakerBot as of yet, but im getting there. Since i have not tested this out, i cannot guarantee its operation. Please write me some comments if you try it out, letting me know if you successfully make a print using this design.