It's another little pet monster for the 3D Artist contest, it's supposed to be a decoration item.

I don't own a 3d printer so I'm not sure if everything is as it should be.

Updated information will be posted in the Instructions below.

Best regards,
Andreas

An early development version of the Bluetooth RepRap control app. Interfaces with a Bluetooth serial module that is connected to the RepRap's rx/tx lines.

If you want to use it with an alt serial port, You'll need to use my sprinter fork that has alt serial support. As a bonus, this version of sprinter also supports the high(er) speed file transfer that is built in to the app.

This SHOULD also be compatible with makerbots as long as you're willing to mod the electronics.

Bluetooth module i used: sparkfun.com/products/10269
Custom Sprinter Firmware: github.com/pipakin/Sprinter
Code is available here: github.com/pipakin/Android-Bluetooth-Reprap
Market Link: market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap
Market Link (free): market.android.com/details?id=com.hermit.btreprap.free

Supports:
Axis movement and homing
Temperature control (temperature status NYI)
SD card listing
Printing from SD Card
Pushing files to the RepRap SD card
Printing directly from the android phone
High(er) speed file transfer with custom Sprinter firmware

TODO:
Installation manual for Bluetooth module
Inquiry scan to show unpaired devices

Known Issues:
If Bluetooth isn't enabled, it can sometimes cause a force close.
If the Bluetooth signal isn't good enough the app might get stuck on initialization.
If the phone goes to sleep the Bluetooth connection doesn't re-initialize properly (for now the program won't let the phone sleep)
You need to pair with your bluetooth device BEFORE running the program. The program only queries for already bonded devices.

UPDATE:
After a conversation with Kliment, I think it should be fine to attach it to the primary serial port, as long as both the bluetooth module and the usb aren't trying to send at the same time.

CHANGELOG:

0.2.0
* Added upload option to send files to the RepRap
* Added bed temperature support

A little dragon, because... guess what year it is!

Made completely using open source software.
Blender 2.61 for the model.
Inkscape 0.47 for the texture.

Yes, this is a fully functional 8-bit big money piggy bank! My 3yr old daughter need a safe place to keep all her high-stakes rock/paper/scissors winnings. She sat down with me in-front of a clean Sketchup session and we began to construct a piggy bank that Mario would approve of.

Check my screen shots, I uploaded a plethora of images including object dimensions.

I printed this in ~6hrs using no support on my Thing-O-Matic's ABP.

My RIG:
TOM # 4890
MK6+
1.75mm
.4 nozzle
ABP with aluminum plate topper and titanium belt covered in kapton

I likes that design of Wildseyed Spool Feeder but i don't want to waste plastic for the big Vertex feet. Also i made some feet for this design :)

I've seen so many impressive spool related posts recently, so I figured I would share my creation. I'm sure I'm not the first to take scrap parts and make something useful out of them.

FOBO is an autonomous, statically balanced walking robot. Yes, this one actually walks under its own power! It is the fourth prototype from Project Biped (http://www.projectbiped.com).


A full overview (with source Blender files) can be found at the Project Biped FOBO website:

projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo

walking info:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/walking-cycle

more pictures of the actual robot:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/photos

FOBO avoiding obstacles:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/navigation

Controlling FOBO with a Kinect:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/kinect

This just holds it in place so it doesn't move around, I pilot drilled 2 holes prior to screwing into the wall. It'll hold the standard 3/4" diameter stick.

My solution for a LM8UU linear bearing replacement for a Sells Mendel Y-Axis. This is a new bottom thick sheet and linear bearing holders. The bearing holders are thingiverse.com/thing:10637 with 30mm between mounting holes.

ALREADY PUBLISHED THE NEW VERSION PRUSA AIR 2 AT thingiverse.com/thing:14204

Since I discovered the RepRap project I was surprised how much knowledge could be stored in an Internet community. I was impressed as a practical invention was able to born and grow in the network through the collaboration of specialists in various fields such as mechanics, electronics, computers ... all around the world.

In the mechanical field, It was a revolution when Josef Prusa got dramatically simplify the construction of a RepRap Mendel, current resulting Prusa, that has become a standard in building a RepRap. This also achieved make it much easier a person to be able to build a 3D printer.

The Prusa Air drinks from this spirit and tries to give a twist to the construction of a 3D printer. Its design is based on three basic principles:

1) To simplify the manufacturing and assembly (KISS principle).
2) Designing parts the cheapest way to be able to meet the requirements.
3) A little beauty.

With these guidelines, the use of RP parts is reduced for "commercial" pieces but always bearing in mind that they were readily available worldwide.

The changes are basically:

A) Most of the frame rods and RP pieces has been replaced by three pieces of acrylic embedded between them. They have followed all the design dimensions of Prusa, so for size, trips, electronics, firmwares... it works as a Prusa.

B) One of the sides of the typical Mendel triangle has been removed, resulting in a work area more accessible.

C) The holes for the rods have been changed so that the rods can be removed without having to completely unscrew the nuts.

D) The X and Z axis haven’t changed, they are exactly the same of a Mendel Prusa, the Y axis, as the guides are placed in the same way, you can choose to place a traditional Y-axis or mount a Y-axis with integrated heated platform like this: thingiverse.com/thing:11657.

All the infographics was made by Pikelo with Cinema 4D + Vray.

There is a wiki page writen in Spanish: reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire

This part is designed to allow you to mount a 1-DIN car stereo into a 2-Din slot. DIN is generally defined as 180X50mm, so a 2-DIN is 180X100mm. Many cars come with a 2-DIN sized manufacturer radio, while many aftermarket radios are 1-Din, necessitating a part to fill the gap in the front panel. In my case the car in question is a 1996 ford explorer with a 2-DIN radio slot. After the stock radio broke a few years ago I got a new radio that came with a mounting kit. After that radio got stolen the insurance sent us a radio that came with a mediocre mounting kit that promptly broke, so I designed and printed my own. The adapter mounts a Pioneer P5100UB head unit into the slot of a 1996 Ford Explorer, however DIN sizes tend to be standardized, making it possible that this unit will work for other vehicles, which is why I decided to post it.

Features:
The adapter has a large opening in the front to allow you to store CDs, remotes, papers, etc. There is a little lip on the front to prevent stuff from sliding out when you accelerate. The coolest feature is the three 5mm holes and channel on each side. These are intended for you to insert 3 LEDs and run the wiring through the channel so as to create a neat lighting effect. I found the coolest effect to be from producing the plastic parts entirely in Nuclear Green ABS: store.makerbot.com/nuclear-green-abs-1kg-spool-3mm-filament.html
The LEDs were UV: radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3107633
This creates an effect where the lighting comes almost entirely from the fluorescence of the plastic and is thus much more diffuse and less likely to glare into your eye while driving at night. It's also just very unique looking.

Note: In the third image from bottom the apparent double image of the 3 LEDs is caused by reflection off the top plastic surface, showing how shiny it is after treatment with acetone.
The bottom image is how the radio/lighting setup would appear from the vantage point of the driver looking down at night.
The top image of course looks straight in and is far brighter than the driver would see. Still it is important for safety reasons to wire it to an external switch rather than just wiring it to the ignition or the instrument light control so that it can be switched off manually if it becomes too bright or distracting.

A personalized green lantern mask. My contribution for Halloween 2011. There are numerous green lantern rings on here you can print to go along with the mask.

This is an adequately close model of Magneto/Shaw's helmet from x-men first class. Total print time is about 25hrs.

Designed for a 7.5" head width. In hindsight it is a bit too big, and I would scale it by 7/7.5 if I were doing it again.

The first one was printed on a Fablicator.

fablicator.com

Small project that I have had worked on.

Trying to use a small 9g servo to open and close the blinds.

If you watch the video you can see it has potential, and needs a few changes.

youtube.com/watch?v=CyzVa-s3Zjw

He's got zee crazy eye, maybe you shouldn't trust him with your parts...

Entry for the MakerBot Challenge running up on GrabCAD.com.
Like to think I pulled out all the stops for this guy.
The gears mesh and roll (here's a quick animation vimeo.com/29635250), the arms sway, the grips grab, and the neck is fully articulated. Never done any sort of 3D printing, but I'm fairly certain all the bits should be printable, tried to be sure there aren't any monster overhangs. If any experts would like to tell me where I goofed, that would be killer.

It works!

While working with Cymon (who doesn't have a MakerBot) and NYCDESIGNER to try and get Cymon's Recorder design to work thingiverse.com/thing:11796 I decided I needed a little more SCIENCE! So I wrote a parametric OpenSCAD script based on the Whistle/Flute from ggwhistles.com/howto/ that allows you to experiment with different hole placement, size, window and lip angles, etc. This flute is much simpler then a recorder (and not nearly as pretty as Cymon's) but it is able to play 6 notes quite clearly and loudly. Now if only I knew how to play the flute...

This is still a work in progress because I think I can get the mouthpiece/lip to print a little easier. It's kind of fiddly to get it just right.

Just in time for you DIY costume makers! This one's multimedia- you'll need some sewing supplies and craft glue to complete it.
Full parts list-
- Printed object.
- Foam batting.
- Fake fur or other fabric.
- Matching thread.
- Needle.
- Craft glue (hot glue may work.)
- Pins (safety or otherwise.)

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

the object is a two pieces cellphone holder for bikes. the diameter of the central hole is a 32mm and the two pieces are attached together with 4 M3 screws.
to avoid vibrations and shocks I've attached small rubber pad (1mm thick) where the cellphone touches the holder

Medical prototype. My kid was in a hospital recently, and they had to put him on an IV. The current practice here is to place a support _Under_ the wrist, tape everything up (for immobilization), and have the IV on top of the wrist. The problems we encountered were:

1. No protection for the top of the wrist where the IV was, causing much anxiety on my part on whether the dude was gonna knock his wrist against anything and dislodge the IV needle, etc (wince!)
2. Total lost of dexterity in the hands due to the support block

This prototype proposes to accomplish the following:

1. immobilization of the wrist from the top instead, secured by velcro bands (currently testing using velcro cable ties)
2. top of the wrist is protected by the Y arms of the brace, while still allowing the palm area to be secured by yet another velcro band
3. Fingers can still move (a lot more than before), without compromising the IV placement
4. A lot faster to deploy (dude had to change his dressings 3 times in five days, and each time I freaked out more than he did :-P )

This one came out pretty well and is the most complete 360 degree gnome scan yet. It was also the first scan using my new printed turntable and spinscan software from thingiverse.com/thing:9972

Spinscan isn't calculating the Z axis correctly, so if you download the point cloud you'll see it was stretched. I had to shrink the Z axis in blender. Other then that and 2 steps in meshlab, it required no cleanup or merging of multiple point clouds, spinscan got a complete scan of all sides in one go.

At long last, everyone in the world (ok everyone who has access to a 3d printer) can have their own bust of America's greatest entertainer and statesman, Stephen Colbert.

Even better, you can use this model and your favorite 3d modeling software to add Mr. Colbert's face to objects which were formerly lacking in Colbert heads, like bannisters, umbrella handles, toothpaste squeezers, and rabbits. (To name a few.)

Made with a Polhemus 3d scanner at the Colbert set on 6/6/2011.

This is Gangsta Chess! Now you can wage your own criminal underground turf war in your home!

This design is a mashup/derivative based on the original gangsta, created by the OG himself, Yzorg.

I designed this as an entry to a design challenge that was created to settle a friendly disagreement between MakerBlock and I. I guess this is how makers settle disputes!

Each gangsta has his own special chess style hat (or replacement head for the knight) to signify which piece he is. He also has a piece logo on his shirt, to make it easier to identify the pieces, because there is nothing more frustrating than playing chess with pieces that are hard to identify or not instantly recognizable.

Unfortunately, the deadline for the challenge is coming up really fast, so I was only able to print up the black pieces minus pawns. I expect to use Z scaled down gangstas for pawns.

The files were created in OpenScad. I have uploaded the file, but the code isn't that clean.

Thanks to Syvwlch and MakerBlock for their advice during creation.

Update: Unfortunately, the pawns, which I am printing 8 simultaneously, are going to take 6 hours to print! So, I probably won't have the entire chess set printed (white pieces) until Wednesday morning.

We started shipping the Ultimaker, parallel to that we publish the lasercut drawings.

Some other turret models have been posted and people have been asking for the model for this one on the flickr set ( flickr.com/photos/7820200@N05/sets/72157626476156514/with/5614051491/ ), so I thought I'd post my progress. There's a lot left to be done, but the white shell parts are pretty much finalized. It's a complex model, and rendering will take a while, this is normal. You can change the $fn variable at the beginning to make smoother curves with smaller facets, but the larger the variable, the longer it will take to render. I've been working on other projects, but if/when I finish this, I'll update this space.

This model is based on careful measurement of images from screenshots from Portal, Portal 2, and Portal 2 promotional materials. It is actual size, as measured by taking screenshots in which Chell can be seen standing next to the turret, and assuming her to be average height for an adult female. This resulted in an estimate that the standing turret is 1.5m tall including the antenna, and the spheroid portion is 1m tall when folded.

Update: thanks to eric1000 for the pics of a 1/10 scale shapeways print!

Update 2: The design now has parameters for size (height of the complete spheroid, "full size" is 1000mm) and thickness of the shell in mm. This should make it easier to produce printable STL files. Also, the different parts are now modules that can be easily disabled at the beginning of the file.

Update 3: I've successfully printed all of the shell parts on my Makerbot with supports at 1/5 scale. Pictures have been added, and I've posted the STLs I used.

Update 4: I've added the black feet and updated the legs with small recesses to insert them into. The scad file is also updated, and includes the code for generating the printable plates.

This is a 6-Pin Shrouded Male Connector which accepts an IDC Connector. I bought some Polulu Carrier kits and only a 10-Pin Connector was included. Unfortunately, I don't have any electronics suppliers in my town and I didn't want to wait for a delivery, so I built my own.

Update: Openscad Parametric Version coming soon.

I keep meaning to learn some OpenScad so I can easily make these types of things parametric, but every time I start, I end up thinking, "Man I could get this done in like 20 seconds in Sketchup".

Simple holder for flexy shaft (I use the Einhell flexy shaft but Dremel one should work too - the inner dia of the hole is 21mm). It can hold a marker or a pen too.

This item replaces the hexagonal tiles in Settlers of Catan with tiles that interlock. It will produce the 19 hexagonal tiles that comprise the basic set, as well as a bunch of tokens to represent the ports.

Nothing to see here. You really want version 3: thingiverse.com/thing:8252 (although this is still a good reference for the benefits of the accessible aspects.

**Version 2 now uploaded**. Generate STLs from the version 2 scad to get the version 2 changes. NOTE: To do this you must have configuration.scad from the prusa git repo in the same directory as gregs-wade-v2.scad so that bolt and nut sizes defined in that file can be used.

This is an extruder based strongly on the wades from the Prusa git repo. It has several features over the standard wade:

1. Accessible hobbing. If you strip the filament, there is no need to disassemble in any way (such as removing the idler/filament or bolt) in order to remove the stripped plastic from the hobbing. You can get a needle in the hole in the top and scrape it out.

2. The motor can be removed without removing the large gear. The three mounting screws can be accessed without removing the gear. 2 of them are clearly accessible and the other is accessible through a hole in the gear.

3. Slightly higher gear ratio than standard wade. This design uses 43:10 instead of 37:11.

4. The rotated motor mount means that the carriage attachment screw is accessible with the motor installed.

5. The rotated motor mount also means that the clearance past the idler attachment captive nuts is a bit longer, so you have a bit more play tensioning the idler.

6. The motor is far enough back from the face that the small gear can be mounted with the hub towards the motor (necessary with short shafted motors) and it will mesh with the large gear when there is only 1 washer between the bearing and the large gear.

7. The large gear has a shallow nut trap so that locking halfnuts can be used with hobbed threaded rod (infinitely adjustable hob alignment) rather than a bolt.

8. The motor mount screws are recessed allowing the large gear to be almost against the face of the extruder body.

9. It has sexy curves.

Things I still plan to do:
Add some options to the way the small gear mounts on the shaft. I have always had problems getting that right (hence thingiverse.com/thing:5213).

Version 2 Changes:
* Added the 4th idler screw hole.
* Moved the top captive nuts for the idler screws closer to the idler so that you can screw the idler bolts in further
* Made the motor mount slots go a further 1mm away from the hobbed bolt (as requested by spacexula)
* Added the framework for hotend mount supports (I still need people to tell me what their particular hotend mounting needs are). Each hotend defines its holes assuming that the extruder block is sitting vertical with the filament exit hole at [0,0,0]).

This is used to mount a stepper motor to a Brutstruder. It was originally designed to use TheRuttmeister's 'older' gears ( thingiverse.com/thing:5164 ), however it could be adjusted to support any gear set you want. The stepper motor mounting holes have some 'slide' to them, so slightly different sized gears should work ok. I plan on updating this later to make sure it supports TheRuttmeister's new COLOSO-Gears ( thingiverse.com/thing:5795 ).

The OpenSCAD file contains references to the following STL files (used for the assembly view and reference only, no STL's are used in the actual construction of the stepper mount):

1. Gears from thingiverse.com/thing:5164
2. BrutStruder block and idler from thingiverse.com/thing:4036
3. Dino-2 L&R from thingiverse.com/thing:1912

Putting these STL's in the same folder as the OpenSCAD file will allow you to see the pieces in an assembled view (like the multi-colored image on the left).

UPDATE (02/07/11): Updated SCAD file, added 606 bearing STL's and single layer variants. My first print curled a bit at the corners, but was still usable. I tried adding some 'tabs' at the corners to increase the raft size (if used) and help hold down the corners. Just clip them off when done. They are untested, but should help, in theory ;-).