Here is my robotic arm made of 4mm hardboard with a 3-axis cnc, it is also printable. The servos are the most cheapest ones (TopLine standard servo RS 2 J/R and TopLine mini-servo ES-05 JR).

A little video:
youtube.com/watch?v=gfsLu1iuLRg

More about the electronics and other info at:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/08/17/multiply-the-robotic-arm-and-electronics/

About the mechanics:
jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2010/04/19/my-mini-servo-grippers-and-completed-robotic-arm/

Artec has quite the fancy collections of 3d Scans over at artec3d.com/gallery/3d-models/ .
This model is of the scan of Soppho's Head. I think this model is absolutely beautiful and was thrilled to find it. The STL has been given a flat bottom and fixed for holes in netfabb.

I printed her in White PLA from ProtoParadigm. At arms length she looks like she was cast in plaster.
protoparadigm.com/products-page/pla-3mm/white-pla-1kg-2-2-lbs-spool-3mm-filament/

bowl for stuff that's small enough to fit inside and big enough to stay inside.

Another trinket box...

Probably look good printed by one of the people who use rainbow coloured filament.

The last nickel calibration test I designed gave no real feedback on how to fix the problem. This one should allow for measurements and corrections.

This one is exactly 21.21 mm wide in both the x and y. The slots are the same lengths (21.21mm) but a little wide (3mm)to disregard the width of the slot until the x and y are perfect.

Not everyone has unlimited access to the US nickel, and as an exercise to myself I made this fully parametric coin calibrator in OpenSCAD.

Modeled to be virtually identical to its ancestor, you can now measure your favorite nickel alternative coin in your country of choice, and print your local flavor calibrator, ready for the coins in your pocket right now.

To limit confusion I added labels to the axis courtesy of tbuser's bitmap fonts. thingiverse.com/thing:2054
(place the bitmap.scad file in the same folder to make it work)

Some minor changes to my filament pusher inspired by Tom's update (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16928).
I have incorporated a filament guide on the idler (and coined the term guidler).
I also took his modification so the front bearing doesnt rub and I have included a printed spacer so the bottom bearing doesnt rub either (just insert it before the bearing).
I also widened the opening a bit for better access to the hobbing (another of Tom's ideas).
I also included one of Triffid Hunter's suggestions to modify the hinge support piece slightly to make it easier to remove.

Thanks Tom and Triffid for the ideas.

Egg cup for medium sized chicken eggs with decorative hearts pattern

This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, H, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.
Not printed yet... I'm away for the weekend! I'll upload some photos when I do, on Monday.

Yoda Bust

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

This is one of the original dualstrusion files for the experimental dual MK7, modified from Belakor's design by MakerBot intern Will Langford.

According to the Chinese horoscope 2012 is the year of the Dragon.

In honor of that we have scanned a bronze Dragon statue... and thought we share it with you!

Have fun printing it!

This is an implementation of Nikola Tesla's "Valvular Conduit" that acts as a one-way-valve without any moving parts.

blog.makezine.com/2012/01/05/the-tesla-valve-one-way-flow-with-no-moving-parts/

This implementation follows Tesla's patent diagrams, perhaps too closely. It works, but the cap is a bit leaky so I plan to re-design it in the future.

A little dragon, because... guess what year it is!

Made completely using open source software.
Blender 2.61 for the model.
Inkscape 0.47 for the texture.

This carriage has some differences from my other lm8uu carriage:

1. It is designed to work with nophead's half-belt hack: where the belt is either twisted or cut and joined such that the smooth side of the belt goes over the idler bearing (the teeth grippers on the belt clamps are on the other side).

2. It has a square(ish) hole so that it can accept my hotends that use 30mm aluminium tslot as a heat sink: i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff455/gregfrost1/IMGP1349.jpg

3. The belt clamps are designed to use a single screw instead of 2.

4. It is slightly narrower than the previous version (to maximise x travel and get the fan a bit closer to the hotend heatsink).

5. Thanks to Triffid Hunter I have included a ram to protect the belt from the tensioning screw.

6. The double bearing is now on the side of the belt where it belongs (Less binding if binding is even possible with linear bearings).

Photo to follow (currently printing).

These X-Ends build on prusajr's and my previous work to add a few neat features.

I found with the original prusa X-ends that the screws that held the x rods would slip when you tightened the X belt and that would pull the PLA bushings off the Z rods. You get a similar problem with LM8uu X ends but instead of pulling them off the rods, they flex the Z rods and as a result can cause the Z axiz to bind when you raise it closer to where the Z rods are constrained by the frame.

The push fit X ends sort of address the issue, but you would need to cut the length of the X rods very precisely.

This design has one X end closed and one open (but closeable by the insertion of a screw or piece of 3mm filament).

The closed end has a nut trap in the end so that you can install a tensioning screw. That allows you to precisely set the separation of the X ends and have them held rigidly at that distance regardless of the tensioning of the X belt without the need to cut the rods precisely.

The open X end allows you to slide the X rods all the way out (once you remove the locking screw/filament) to easily replace or service your X carriage/extruder.

The x-end-motor has another new neat feature which is a platform that allows you to screw adjust the height of an endstop landing pad. This should make adjusting the Z endstop (which is the only one that needs adjusting accurately) much simpler. I found that it was very much trial and error adjusting the traditional endstops because not only did they slide up and down the rods, but they would also tilt slightly which also affected their set-point. Getting them adjusted accurately was an exercise in frustration.

To use the Z adjustment, you need to remove the support section of the adjustment column, then insert the captive nut and screw and tighten the screw until it flexes the landing pad down slightly. Then set your Z stop a bit low and iterate the process of adjusting the screw and homing the Z until you are happy with the home position. I put a nut in both the top and bottom nut traps, but strictly speaking, only the bottom nut is essential.

I have also shaved off the bump on the motor mount so that I can use 10 tooth machined T5 pullies instead of printed 8mm pullies without the belt rubbing on the bump.

There is also an optional x endstop mount on the x-end-motor that allows you to use an automotive/cherry microswitch (the kind that has 3mm mounting holes) so that you don't need special hardware to mount your endstops, you can just use m3 screws. Incorporating the endstop in the X end also allows you to maximize x travel. This can be good if you print on glass or have a build plate without a purge area to allow the x home to be off the platform so you can wipe the nozzle and do any pre-print priming. Checkout the pic from the top with the X at its home position. There is literally no travel wasted.

The model is parametric to allow for you to use 2 lm8uu or 1 lm8luu in each X end. I have uploaded both varieties.

Please refer to my github for the OpenSCAD source files: github.com/GregFrost/PrusaMendel

Long Long ago in a land far away, there was a little castle surrounded by an industrious town. The townspeople loved their little castle and wanted it to be perfect. But the little castle was empty. Its owner had left long ago, taking all the fine things with him and locking them away.

The Townspeople resolved to re-furnish there castle. They learned to craft and create. Making chest and chairs, tables and beds, gadgets and gizmo's, they filled the castle with things that reflected themselves and their experiences. They created so many things that at the end of each day it looked like little castle couldn't hold any more.

But the castle had a secret. Every night, it grew. Sprouting new towers, chambers, and cellars. The town's people would awaken and rejoice, ready for another day of crafting and creating. The town was proud of its magical castle, and everyone wanted to fill it with the best that they could offer.

But wasn't a magical castle, it was a MakerBot Castle.

Each night the daring Damsels deftly deployed their wondrous Replicator, creating new rooms to extend the structure. Floor by floor they built up into the sky. Until one day the little castle had become the tallest and grandest in all the Thingiverse.

And the small town around the castle had grown into a great city, filled with the incredible things and spectacular ideas. The Makers, Crafters, and Hackers had learned from furnishing the castle. They had perfected their crafts and honed their skills. When they looked out on the world from the tallest tower, and saw that it too was a place they could rebuild. And they spread across the land, sharing their knowledge and teaching others how to improve the world around them.

Created by Thingiverse user Skimbal, designer of the Turtle Shell Racers, MakerBot Botmobile and the Gothic Cathedral Playset.

Greetings Bold Adventurers!

I know you must be pretty excited right now, but please try to contain yourselves while we get thought this final pre-flight briefing....

Your rocket is just coming out of the Replicator now. And let me be the first to say, she’s a beauty. This new model you’ll be flying has that stunning red-and-white color scheme, and a much lower risk of sudden occupant liquefaction.

We’ll be sending you on a daring voyage of exploration and discovery. You're going out into the furthest reaches of the known Thingiverse, with only your wits and those little helmets for protection. We have no idea whats out there... or if it's friendly. But here at MakerBot Space Exploration our engineers have decided its best to just say positive.

Remember, it's the dream of every spool of filament to one day be printed into an astronaut, and you are the lucky few who get to live that dream. Go forth my brave astronauts and see all there is to be seen! Discover all that can be discovered! Meet new prints and learn their ways! Yours is the greatest adventure of our time!

And be sure to take lots of pictures, you know we love a good slide show.

Created by Thingiverse user Skimbal, designer of the Turtle Shell Racers, MakerBot Botmobile and the Gothic Cathedral Playset.

Forward Brave Astronauts!

Journey into the farthest reaches of the Cosmos and be among the first humans to see the wonders of our Thingiverse.

Your daring MakerBot crew risks all for science, adventure, and our distributed-manufacturing future!

Created by Thingiverse user Skimbal, designer of the Turtle Shell Racers, MakerBot Botmobile and the Gothic Cathedral Playset.

While looking for new interesting things to print using water soluble PVA support, I decided I want to try to make a Hilbert Cube: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hilbert_cube

After trying and failing to do it in openscad, I worked around it's limitations by writing a ruby script that generates openscad code. This ruby script can create a 1-3 iterations of a hilbert curve in 3d. I borrowed code from a Processing script by Thomas Diewald at openprocessing.org/visuals/?visualID=15599

Unfortunately after doing this, I realized it wasn't really a hilbert cube as the shape is not one continuous curve. :( Still it looks cool and is pretty much impossible to print without dissolvable support. It would be awesome if someone smarter than me would make a proper parametric hilbert cube generator, plz!

I also found a really nice and proper curved hilbert cube by Carlo H. Séquin at cs.berkeley.edu/~sequin/X/Hilbert_Cube/ I resized it and made a support model for it. I don't know what the license is on it, hopefully he won't mind me reposting it here. The problem with this model is that it is curved in a way that makes it a more difficult print.

See also this hilbert cube print from shapeways: youtube.com/watch?v=9cdWpQ2D-O8

The Sign of the Horns by dietz1 just needed some led's..

Are you sometimes two tired in the morning to bike to work because you don't have a place to put your coffee? Now you can put the pedal to the metal with this luxurious bicycle cup holder. "I'll have that organic, fair-traded, grass-fed, low-fat iced latte to go please!"

I needed a streetlamp for a model I'm working on - I remembered cptnAWESOME's street sign, and thought I could make some quick adjustments to get a streetlamp that would suit my purposes.

Laser cutter coolant flow sensor.

The concept was to have a sensor that wasn't inline with the coolant line and couldn't restrict the flow if it seized up. I'm sure that the design is scaleable within reason for other projects. It is simply tywrapped to the outlet end of the coolant pipe and dunked in the coolant reservoir/bucket.
The sensor is a simple hall effect switch.

BTW, if anyone knows how to embed a YouTube link to movie, let me know - the movie is at the bottom :-)

Quick and dirty Alien Egg like lamp design to test my new Ultimaker... this is a real challenge to print without getting stringing in the side holes.

This is a fun project I started during the christmas holidays.

I combined thingiverse thing no 10650 with a yoda figure from the 3D galery.
The details have been reduced to make the HQ yoda printable.

Read more details on: ifeelbeta.de/index.php/art-objects/printable-yoda-figure

May the force be with you
BonsaiBrain

I've been thinking that I want a more portable reprap printer. One that I can collapse together so that it fits into a smaller space while moving it. I think maybe it'd be possible to do an adaptation of the printrbot design and edit it (as shown in the picture) so that the platform can be lifted up.

It's not done yet, but the files show the idea. It's sort of a derivative of printrbot I guess, but all the files are mine.

Several of the components could be taken from thingiverse.com/thing:14208 which is a bit more advanced in some areas, and parametric.

Comments are welcome. I'll try to finish it and print it to see how it works in real life.

The moi3d files that contain the design are attached.

This is a tubular drive mechanism. It is designed to use 1/2 inch aluminum conduit. This is a work in process, and I am already working on a newer version that will use dual rails. I think that this type of mechanism will work well as an linear axis drive mechanism when combined a stepper motor, and magnetic linear encoder would provide high accuracy large scale positioning.

Tubular Drive Test Fixed Drive
youtube.com/watch?v=k0G8B77UOJs

Tubular Drive Test Fixed Conduit
youtube.com/watch?v=70dTRN7zSpU

This is a sculptur made with Blender for to see how I could do finishing in 3D. I went through a lot of steps for to try to clean the mesh, but there is still a lot of work I think. But I don't have enough time and courage to go on. Feel free to give it a go!!
I have added the different elements in STL, if it can help someone.

Also by the way, I'm printing since a few days ABS on an unclad sheet of FR4 epoxy glass with a heated bed built under a piece Vitroceram glass at only 100 degrees celsius and it's a wonder. I had no warp, and Abs sticks surprisingly just like on Kapton tape. After the print is finished, I can just remove the epoxy sheet and it cools down (it can go fast with a little blow) and the part just pops off by itself!
This print is 160mm large and quiet massive, but it just goes fine even though my raft is really small.(see pictures)

This is a fully functional microphone shock mount for a side-address microphone. (Also called a "spider mount.") It's functionally equivalent to equipment that can cost around $50 to buy retail. This design is meant to be printed on a RepRap style 3D printer.