Pretty simple kids toy. Attach a balloon and watch it scoot across the floor! (Sorry, some extra parts required)

Based on the following design quantumbalancing.com/images/goldenmeangauge.jpg

When searching for a design I also came across those, which look much nicer :
starbond-europa.de/images/aE2.JPG
urcan.deviantart.com/art/Golden-Ratio-calipers-v-1-1-132825076
urcan.deviantart.com/gallery/?offset=24#/d2730x3
etsy.com/listing/70936011/golden-section-calipers

This moon rover is pretty simple; the real point is the treads. The idea of turning my Stretchy Bracelet into tank tracks is thanks to BenRockhold. Turns out it works really well: if you push this around on a slightly grippy surface like carpet, the tracks roll easily.

In fact, the track keys into the wheels so well, this could probably be used as a timing belt or chain.

I wanted a nice looking, enclosed and reliable 3D printer with great build quality and large envelope. The result: Part-Y!

The frame consists of L-shaped aluminium profiles, covered in clear plexiglass with vinyldecals designed by my sister. The printer is completely enclosed with charcoal filters on the air outlet to get rid of fumes.

All axes are constructed with high quality professional linear guides. The z axis was originally designed with rods and linear bearings, but I bought the cheapest bearings on ebay and the quality was really bad.

The extruder is a Makerbot mk7 for 1.75mm filament, choosen for it's compact size, high reliability and great precision.

Current build envelope is limited by the area of the heated bed to 210x210x200 mm, the x and y axes are however capable of 240mm movement.

Print-Y is controlled by a Sanguinololu and powered by an internal 400W PSU.

I'll add more details with BOM aso later if someone is interested.

Bad quality video: youtube.com/watch?v=qF7fGArkb1c

I really shouldn’t have a problem filming things with my iPhone without getting fingers in the way of the lens, but it happens. I’ve also noticed that it’s easy to accidentally rub the microphone and mess up the audio during recording. Because I have a couple holiday concerts coming up that I’ve been asked to record I thought it would be worth figuring out a better way to tackle this problem.

I started with my iPhone Tripod attachment and added the new features I was looking for. First I modeled a handle long enough to hold comfortable, but short enough to carry in your pocket. Then I removed the tripod nut hole and added a slot for the handle to slide into. I also added a slot in the handle and a tab on the camera mount so the two parts slide together for easy transport in your pocket or bag.

More details and photos are available here: thenewhobbyist.com/2011/12/collapsable-iphone-camera-handle/

This is a fully functional microphone shock mount for a side-address microphone. (Also called a "spider mount.") It's functionally equivalent to equipment that can cost around $50 to buy retail. This design is meant to be printed on a RepRap style 3D printer.

Very much a work in progress! This is an odometer for filament! It should measure filament by the centimeter so you can have a real measurement for filament used! The base it attaches to slides on to the counter assembly, so you can chose different mounts for it, but the first mount is for a ToM endcap.

I'm currently printing the first set of parts to validate the design, after some tweaks, I'll upload the first working design to share and build from!

The next version will have a second resettable counter. I will also provide just the counter mechanism as a separate "thing" once I make sure everything works okay.

Do you ride clipless pedals but don't like wearing your cleats after a short ride to the store or standing around at a party? Print out some clipless pedal pedals and enjoy a comfortable ride to your next event.

These are designed for 2 hole (SPD style) cleats, but could easily be modified for 3 hole. I ride Crank Brothers and it is quite easy to clip these in and out.

This part was made with Tinkercad. (https://tinkercad.com/p/acc02218f590e88b/178)

I know, the last thing we need is another RAMPS box... but I wanted to put up the updated Sliding Lid Project Box, and demonstrate the new screw hole option.

I also thought it would be good to show an actual use of the parametric box.

The original box did not print the actual holes for screws, just screw blocks you could drill into. That was because I felt that printed holes were hard to get accurate, and this could lead to plastic cracking stresses. Now holes are printed as a star shaped hole, a bit like some masonry mounts. These will accept a lot of different screws and not stress out. There are now two parameters to separately specify the screw hole, and the hole in the lid.

I have made and assembled the RAMPS 1.4 box, but haven't had it in operation, so I can't be sure there is enough ventilation.

I'm making extensive use of OpenSCAD. The only problem I found is that the polygon function is hard to use. I rather draw my polygons visual. So I created a simple polygon editor for OpenSCAD in Javascript+HTML.

Following the idea from the "OpenScad Polygon Generator" by "PieterBos" thingiverse.com/thing:9290
But then working for any OS, any browser, without fuss. You don't even need to install anything! (might even work in mobile browsers)

Online version can be found at:
daid.mine.nu/~daid/3d/
Latest sources can be found at:
github.com/daid/OpenSCAD-polygon-editor

Method for constructing a Negative-Pressure Activated-Carbon Fume Chamber.

Eliminate ABS fumes/smell when ventilation to the outside is not an option.

Compatible with HBP and APB.
Costs about $35 and runs at about 4 Watts.

Now new and improved! (Details at the end.)
I gave up on my Automatic Build Platform! (ABP)
I must admit that at the beginning we had some swell moments. Those graceful wipes at the start and the rolling off the belt at the end were memorable. But there was always something getting between us. Projects that would not stick or that would get knocked down mid-build half hour into the build. And in the rare moments when a raft-less object would finally finish it would have a wavy base. We tried making new belts, we tried kapon therapy and even going to different temperatures but nothing seemed to work. I could go on but it would seem petty on my part after our time together.
I know it seems cruel but I took it apart and built an HBP with some of its parts.
It was simple really. I took the heater board with the thermistor and connections from the ABP. I also removed the wooden base where the heater board sits because it has that nice round cutout that allow space for the connectors and the round hole in the center for the thermistor.
The three other pieces I used were:
1. the wooden base with the magnets of one of the two acrylic bases that came with my Ultimate Cupcake
2. a 100mm square sheet of zinc that I cut out of a piece that I had laying around in my garage. I used this since I did not want to put Kapon tape directly on the heater board in case I decide to reconcile with my ABP.
3. I needed slightly longer bolts so I used four M3 x 16mm bolts that I had left over from my original parts kit.
Now that it's put together I use the HBP profile for my g-code and my first build was beautiful. On the second or third build, the first layer was not sticking very well - making a bit of a mess of some of the detail. So I upped the base temperature to 135 and now it is doing a great job.
Projects stick nicely and don't curl on the base, and with the low and compact profile I no longer have the wobble I was getting on the ABP on tall builds.
Hopefully we can live happily ever after.
Well, we were not so happy. It turns out that my sheet of zink was not flat so there was as much as 1.5 mm difference from one place to another. So I went out and bough myself a piece of 2mm aluminum and had it cut to size. And I love it! It is perfectly flat and transfers heat beautifully. My next step is to inset the bolts so that the top is all flat.

At first glance this seems like a totally boring, almost pointless object. It looks like a shelf pin. You know, one of the things you stick into the hundreds of holes in your adjustable-shelf bookcase. But that is where the similarity ends. This isn't just a shelf pin. No, it's much more than that. This is the foundation of a system.

Why have 500 extra holes in your bookcase? Why not put them to use?

On it's own, this object doubles as a cable organizer for your bookcase; slide your cables in the loop area and plug the pin into a hole. Rotate a few to make the cables flow up, down, in, out.

Then, print out one of the add-on pieces: a small shelf to hold small things; a photo or note holder; a flower holder/vase; a LED light to illuminate your shelf. Design your own "thing" to ride on the base.

The process of creating this "thing" crystallized in my mind what owning a 3D printer is all about -- something I'm calling "Desktop Innovation" (like "desktop publishing" but about the process of learning and growth, not about making a "thing"). I wouldn't have thought of this object and system if I hadn't been empowered by my 3D printer to look around me and see where I could make things better, and then to have the ability to rapidly iterate over the design, testing prints, sizes, etc. Innovating on my own terms in my own way. Finding new uses for existing (wasted) spaces.

This small "thing" inspired me to write a 3-part series over at my blog:

Part 1: myplasticfuture.com/desktop-innovation-part-1
Part 2: myplasticfuture.com/desktop-innovation-part-2
Part 3: myplasticfuture.com/desktop-innovation-part-3

This is a Work in Progress, in as much as the modules that can work with this system will grow over time, as well as adjustments to these objects made as they get used more and more (for instance, while these are to-spec for "standard" 5mm shelf pin holes, they are a tight fit in some holes, and there is another 7mm standard out there as well).

I'll be posting original SketchUp files soon.

This is a parametric design of an electronic rain meter.

It measures precipitation, without the user having to empty the measurement glass every day.
The clapper will fill with rain until it gets top-heavy and `claps over` to the other side. Then that side will fill...

The number of claps is a measure of total precipitation.

Well, one printed part anyway. You still need to put in some tubing. After having some trouble with the first peristaltic pump I tried, I did some Google-ing and came across this:
microfluidics.stanford.edu/Publications/Micropumps_Cooling/Shkolnikov-selfpriming-rollerfree-minature-peristaltic-pump.pdf

It is basically a diaphragm pump with the check valves and diaphragm integrated into a single piece of plastic. The best performing version so far can be viewed here:

youtu.be/fRKeDQPz7xw

With some more tweaking I'm sure it can be made better. The nice thing about it is that it requires very little plastic, and is very compact. In the paper they drive it with an eccentric cam. Naturally I want to make some computer-controlled colored-water tubing thing with a bunch of these now. Also, real 3d-printed squirt guns.

Update: There is currently a problem with this pump that doesn't arise until a few days after assembly. Presumably due to creep, the downstream valve slowly loses its ability to seal completely, resulting in greater backflow and then failure. I will experiment but I may not be able to solve this problem without adding pieces (thinking of a set screw plunger sort of deal).

Version History:

V2 (11/1/2011): Improved stroke volume and reduced backflow.

To those who have emailed me about the lack of files.. I'm updating the files please be patient no one is paying me to do this so progress is slow. My printer is also under repair and it will take some time to test my mods. The reason for the mods are to corrects some problems and to back out changes made for the museum challenge as the entry was unsuccessful.

My redesign (derivative) upgrade of a classic toy from my childhood, the original one still can be purchased in shops but they do NOT fly horizontally. This one does, in fact it can even fly over houses and get lost! Lucky we can print another! It improves our world because when you pull the cord and it flies off horizontally the gyroscopic effect tracks it straight and level and gives you a big grin. Smiling people are happy and happy people make the world a better place. It takes advantage of the accuracy with which a 3D printer creates parts to produce a very precise aerodynamic and balanced flying toy that only works well due to the precision of a 3D printer. I'm designing different Prop Rockets for it say tuned :-) bigger faster further!

Updated to identify the aspects for the new museum challenge

This Thing lets you convert a piece of bungee cord into a general purpose adjustable, secure, yet easily undoable elastic fastener. They are often used to attach a bicycle to a car bike rack, but can be used in plenty of other situations, such as tying up intruders until the police arrive.

The local supermarket doesn't sell the paper cases used for making cup cakes and other similar baked goods. They do sell baking parchment though, so I whipped this up in Openscad.

I designed it to be printed, but as I do not yet have a 3d printer this is still untested.

Thank you to everyone who commented on my things! A big thank you to MakeALot who pointed out that something wasn't right with the diagrams. Details in the updated code.

Fully printable, functional mini clamps. Capable of maintaining up to five pounds of clamping force.

Mini Clamp with 85mm clamping capacity

Mini Spreader Clamp with 110mm capacity

Changes made:

Slightly shorter to better fit the TOM build platform

Jaw changed to slide more easily on Bar

Lip added to Jaw and to Wedge for easier one handed clamping/unclamping.

Three more sizes of Wedges. Wedge2 is the standard size. If the jaw fits too loosely or too tightly, try one of the other sizes. The "ClampWedges" file has one of each size of wedge so that you can test the different fits.

Added the Spreader Clamp

Added 140mm blank Bar

Recently we discoverd a really nice technique that makes wood flexible. This is so cool we want to share it with you!

We designed wooden booklets that use this feature. They’re made from a beautiful birch plywood and are finished with a clear varnish. The hard wooden cover can be opened fully to the back side for comfortable holding. A tiny clamp inside, made from the same material, holds a standard A7 writing block.

The booklets come in a horizontal and vertical version.
Actually they not only look cool, it shows exactly what we think digital production is all about. By using manufacturing techniques like this it is possible to make all product features in a single production step and in one material. This cuts down production effort and logistics and makes for a beautifully simple product. Because a laser cutter is a fairly common tool products like this could be manufactured locally, all over the world. By working from sheet materials the products can also be flat-packed, saving even more resources and costs on shipping.

For us this means we can make everything in-house and we don’t need to produce in big quantities to make it affordable. This is really the power of digital manufacturing and personal fabrication.

Here's a simple molecular modeling program written in OPENscad. It's a derivative of the OPENscad program in "Protein Models". It contains two modules, "atom" and "bond". A call to atom makes a sphere and a call to bond makes a cylinder. Atom requires a radius and a set of atomic coordinates; bond requires two sets of atomic coordinates. For example to make a water molecule we could write:

atom (.3, 0, 0, 0); // an Oxygen at the origin, .3 for its radius
atom (.25, -.96, 0, 0); // for the first H atom, .25 for its radius
atom (.25, .24, .93, 0); // for the second H atom
bond (0,0,0,-.96,0,0); // for the first O-H bond
bond (0,0,0,.24,.93.0); // for the second o-H bond

To render it all together the above commands are included within a union statement. More details in makewater.scad.

Once I had this program I began looking for coordinates of interesting molecules to print. I found a collection of fullerenes at ccl.net/cca/data/fullerenes/index.shtml Better known as "Buckyballs" you can read about the fullerenes on Wikipedia. The buckyball most discussed contains 60 carbon atoms but the coordinate collection has a range of sizes, from 20 to 540 atms.

In 1975 I constructed a wire model, an alpha carbon trace, of carp muscle calcium binding protein using Byron's bender. A Thing-O-Matic, I thought, would allow me to build the same model much more easily. I began with a program from the University of Illinois, VMD, which displays protein structures in various ways and outputs STL files. While I was successful in making models with VMD's "tube" representation I was not able to print the alpha carbon "trace" representation.

Then I found openSCAD. All one has to do is provide openSCAD with properly oriented spheres and cylinders and let it work its magic. It produces nice alpha traces that are very similar to a wire model. As well the openSCAD file provided can be easily modified to construct ball and stick models from the orthogonal coordinates of small molecules.

Derived from 'Tire Lever v1' by 'Mizza'.

This version can be printed without support material.

Thanks for the idea!

Just added two small notches to fixate a 4mm bolthead to the pin.
This quick relase system from Jag works perfectly!

A grille over a fan looks nice and helps keeps junk from falling inside your device (and keeps fingers out too). I never seem to have grilles sitting around and seldom bother ordering them so I wind up with naked fans. Now I can just print one up.

Can be used to cover ventilation holes in cabinets as well.

Features a recessed vane area so the blades don't hit the grille. You can set the number of vanes, number of circles and all sizes including vane and circle thickness and center circle thickness.

Hello my name is Pablo Ferro.
This is my robot. The Mark II.


My dream is to have a 3d printer so I hope you like it.

I have no experience whatsoever in 3d printing and STL file format so I need you people to check the file and tell me if it´s ok. Thanks.

This is a derivation of the "Enclosed Cable Carrier" by Landru

It is larger.

Hinge geometry changed for better movement, it takes more force to separate the links.

Completely redrawn (I've forgotten all that I changed).

Two styles of end pieces created.

An airlift valve for a hydroponic system. Specifically Windowfarms system

The pins in this version are a little stronger and their slightly different shape makes them easier to insert and less likely to break. It also lets you make pegs which are printed horizontally so they are much stronger. Pegs can be used to join two parts that have holes in them. The pinholes also now have a small bevel in them to help make it easier to insert.

The syntax is totally different as well. It was kind of dumb to use global variables in the last version, now you pass the variables to each method so it's easier to have pins of various sizes in one project.

A Moineau pump is a type of positive displacement pump with steady flow (no pulsing). This type of pump is common in the food processing industry because it can efficiently pump slurries (like soup) without crushing the contents. This one pumps 32 cc/revolution (neglecting whatever leaks back through the seals) and is capable of pumping water (milk is shown for contrast).

I thought this might be useful as a paste extruder or something of that nature. It's better than a peristaltic pump because no flexible hose is needed (which tend to reduce efficiency and wear out), plus it doesn't pulse.