I present to you, the RepRap tie!

Update 12.30.2011: Added minecraft stl one one 20x20cm build plate and individual pieces in zip file. Yet untested! Don't know how well the holes will print when laying flat, please leave feedback if you try.

Update 12.30.2011: Added a stl file of a tie made from a stl file. Check out tie_stl.zip for source code. Not yet printed!

For years people have made ties out of wood, and I adopted the principle for 3d printing. Could it be a world first?

The basic idea is to take a 3d model, cut holes in it for string and then cut it into smaller pieces so the tie will bend.

I'm not overly satisfied with how the ties sits around the neck, perhaps someone has an idea for a better solution?

Also, any special ideas for a tie, just make a comment and I'll give it a go. :)

This is a console for our open source laser cutter software. It has a 2x16 LCD Display, 4 buttons and a joystick. We use I2C to connect the display with our motherboard.

The console has is quite universal, so it can probably also be used for other projects. Console for your 3D printer, maybe? In addition to I2C, it can also communicate through USB/Serial.

The console is powered by an ATMEGA 168 (Arduino), so it can easily be reprogrammed. The board contains a standard 6-pin connection for a USB -> TTL Cable.

I'm making extensive use of OpenSCAD. The only problem I found is that the polygon function is hard to use. I rather draw my polygons visual. So I created a simple polygon editor for OpenSCAD in Javascript+HTML.

Following the idea from the "OpenScad Polygon Generator" by "PieterBos" thingiverse.com/thing:9290
But then working for any OS, any browser, without fuss. You don't even need to install anything! (might even work in mobile browsers)

Online version can be found at:
daid.mine.nu/~daid/3d/
Latest sources can be found at:
github.com/daid/OpenSCAD-polygon-editor

Video of a metal Schmidt Coupling in action: youtube.com/watch?v=_iIsibuIs08

With this pen lift mechanism the pen is lifted perpendicular. This enables to draw a straight line on an egg.

I made this to start making some custom housings and mounts for the Go Pro Hero camera ( gopro.com/ ).

This is not intended to be printed (although I guess you can if you really want) but is meant to building things for it and testing if it'll fit. This model is just the camera itself without the original waterproof housing that usually comes with the camera. Also includes the placement of the connectors, buttons and openings that may be important.

I commented everything in OpenSCAD so you can turn things off easily and an "extrude" value to make the features stick out of the body father for better reference.

I'm sure it's pretty accurate (used my own camera's measurements), so it should get you extremely close.

Until I fully test it, I'll leave it as "Experimental"... Look for some cool housing designs soon...

I found this video and wanted to make my own. One nut goes on right handed and one goes on left. All overhangs are 50deg so it should print without trouble.

youtube.com/watch?v=o-fPsvqjqZI&NR=1

Update:
In case you missed it in the comments, the original screw and video were made by VeryWetPaint (http://www.thingiverse.com/VeryWetPaint).

This shield allows you to connect a HP C6602 inkjet cartridge to your Arduino turning it into a 96dpi print platform. It only uses 5 pins which can be jumper selected to avoid other shields. It is designed with a Arduino Mega footprint but fully supports both the Arduino and the Arduino Mega. It uses all through-hole components to make assembly easy even for beginners.

Features
Compatible with Arduino and Arduino Mega
Uses only 5 user selectable pins
Stackable (up to 11 Inkshields on Ardunio, 15 on Mega)
On-board 20V boost converter for inkjet head
Accepts 9-12V input via optional power connector or from the Arduino Vin
Auxiliary input header offers support for other microcontrollers
Auxiliary output header supports an extension cable to the inkjet head
Power and Pulse activity LEDs
ISCP header and Reset button
All through-hole components

This will be the first official release location. For the most current information visit:
nicholasclewis.com/inkshield/
github.com/NicholasCLewis/InkShield

A production run of this project was successfully funded via a Kickstarter here: kck.st/oAGeza

Description of files:
InkShieldLibrary.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (You should download the *NEW* version)
InkShieldLibraryNEW.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (updated version - found a few bugs when finishing the Mega version)
InkShieldMegaLibrary.zip - Arduino Mega Libraries/Examples
InkShieldLiteLibrary.zip - Minimal Arduino Libraries/Examples
InkShieldPCB.zip - Kicad Schematic and PCB Layout

"Inspired from" Thing 5570. thingiverse.com/thing:5570

I threw this together a while ago and have used it a good bit. I kinda forgot about it because I now use mostly PLA and the marker thing doesn't work well on PLA. It works very well on ABS though.

This holds two standard Sharpie markers (i.e. "fine" not "ultra fine") and should clear a standard Cupcake's roof hole. I've no idea about the ToM but I expect it should work as well. I originally made a similar thing for one marker but it didn't color the filament very much resulting in very light coloring. Two markers actually tints the filament enough to be noticable. Three would be better, and it follows that 4 would be better-er. I suppose I could throw a three pronged one together. Might be a good exercise to make parametric in openSCAD. I think a holder that bristles with Sharpies might colorate stuff pretty good.

The image with the two parts shown is close to how it really looks. One is natural ABS the other is natural ABS colored with two black Sharpies. The final color is what I'd call a dark gray. The color is throughout the part and fairly even. Long prints you do notice the color getting lighter as the markers run out. After a six hour print the two sharpies were getting low. Most colors come out light to dark pastel colored.

I've done many turtles this way. thingiverse.com/thing:4178 The turtles shown are single blue marker, single green marker and the weird looking one is natural (clear) PLA with a single red marker, then a single blue marker. The red just made the PLA look over-cooked orange, the blue wasn't too bad but not as nice as the ABS.

Note: There is some solvent in the markers that allows the ink to soak into the ABS. If you rub a Sharpie on ABS then break the filament you will see what I mean. That said, if you leave the markers in this rig in contact with the stationary filament it will (fairly quickly actually) cause this filament to shear off cleanly at that point. I've not noticed any weakness of the printed colored parts compared to natural parts. I expect the solvent is boiled off in the hot end.

After using my new Z-stage ( thingiverse.com/thing:10478 ) for a while, I found one annoying problem: there is no easy way to adjust the position manually. With the original Cupcake stage, you just pull on the timing belt. Or install a crank on one of the threaded rods. With 10478, the only way is to turn the threaded rod directly, getting oily fingers in the process.

This thing is an auxiliary stepper controller, which can be inserted between the printer's motherboard and stepper drivers. It's based on an ATTYNY44 processor and very few additional parts.

Of course you can use this device for any other axis as well, including extruder. Or simply use it as a stepper tester - the input can be left open.

There are two buttons, 'up' and 'down'. If you leave them alone, the device passes the motherboard signals through. That is, you can print as normal.

When you press either of the buttons, the device takes over and controls the stepper directly. This way, you can make adjustments even during a print.

- 'up' moves the stepper one way, 'down' the other.
- After holding a button for 2 seconds the speed is doubled.
- Pushing and holding both buttons for 2 seconds enters setup mode (LED flashes).
-- Repeatedly pushing 'up' increases speed
-- Repeatedly pushing 'down' decreases speed
-- Pushing both buttons saves new speed setting

The source code is in zcrank.c - It uses just under 2K of flash memory.

I saw prusa's excellent heated bed, but the dimension was too large for the blank stock I had available, and there were too many narrow traces for an easy home etch, so I designed a different one.

Dimensions are 200x200mm, hole centers are 190mm apart.

Design resistance is 0.95 ohms. Etch from 1oz (36um) copper to get this resistance.

Gives 150w from a 12v source, and consumes 12.5A.

I've had my bed up to 140°C before, and didn't want to take it higher for fear of cracking my glass or damaging the FR4 PCB material.

Functional Pin Tumble lock. All of the components can be printed with the exception of the helix compression springs. These springs can be taken out of standard click pens. The springs I made this for are 4mm OD and ~20mm long.
I made a small window in the "Outer Barrel" to view the key pin pushing up on the driver pin.
This was a quick project to familiarize myself with the design constraints required for successful FDM designs/prints. I thought I would distribute since it could be fun for teaching and demonstrations.

I've written two little console scripts to upload GCode to Zaggo's SpereBot.
See Thing thingiverse.com/thing:7656

One is in python.org/ the other in tcl.tk/

The python version runs on Linux and Mac.
The TCL version is only tested on Linux.
They should both run on Windows.

The current version can always be found on github.com/tgfuellner/SphereBot

Drafont is a font system for the OpenSCAD program to have Unicode characters from scalable TrueType fonts.

Example Usage:

To make the Hi! greeting at left, do as follows:

1. Download freeserif_basiclatin.scad and freeserif_cherokee.scad (see below for download links)
2. Type this into Openscad:

use <freeserif_basiclatin.scad>;
use <freeserif_cherokee.scad>;

d=12; // detail level - use 1 or 12
freeserif_H(d)
freeserif_i(d);

translate([-800,-1600,0])
freeserif_13a3(d)
freeserif_13cf(d)
freeserif_13f2(d);

Features

1. Each character is a module. Chain them together for auto-positioning
2. Each character can be referred to by unicode, or a 'shorthand' name
3. At the top of each .scad file is a list of the characters available
4. Two detail levels: 1 and 12
5. You can generate your own .scad font from a Truetype font, with any detail level you want. Download the .py files, edit settings at the end of ddump.py, and run it as follows:

python ddump.py FreeSerif.ttf 0x0041-0x007a > freeserif_basiclatin.scad
python ddump.py FreeSerif.ttf 0x13a0-0x13f4 > freeserif_cherokee.scad

Bugs

1. If you use the same char twice in a word, you have to use two _ (underscore)
2. Some complicated characters won't render properly
3. It is slow
4. CJK characters in FreeSerif not working
5. Some fonts don't work, at all (Sawasdee)

Licenses

Drafont python code & all .stl files are released under the Creative Commons Share-Alike Attribution license 3.0.

FreeSerif.ttf and the FreeSerif .scad files are under the GPL 3 license. See gnu.org/software/freefont/license.html

The Nixish .scad files are under the GUST public license:
gust.org.pl/projects/e-foundry/licenses

Name

This project is named in honor of Thomas Drake, NSA Whistleblower, whom you can read about by clicking here: bit.ly/mrm4q9

Sample .stl

"Anna Akhmatova" is an example of Cyrllic and Latin text in FreeSans.

1234567890 is the font Nixish, which is derived exactly from LMRomansUnsl10

See Also

freetype.org/freetype2/docs/glyphs/glyphs-6.html FreeType manual, David Turner et al
code.google.com/p/freetype-py/ Freetype-py by Nicolas Rougier
fileformat.info/info/unicode/block/index.htm Unicode Blocks
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anna_Akhmatova

Fonts:

bit.ly/m9oJWh LMRomanUnsl10 from Polish LaTeX user group GUST
gnu.org/software/freefont/index.html GNU FreeFont

Bezier:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bezier_2_big.gif Bezier Curve, Phil Tregoning, Wikipedia
thingiverse.com/thing:8443 William Adam's pub domain Bezier Curves
thingiverse.com/thing:8931 Conic Bezier Curve, donb

Changelog

0.5 pre-rendering
0.4 enable 'ranges' of unicodes to be dumped. use 'advance' from font
0.3 move openscad code
0.2 fix chunking
0.1 started

I added a negative-space module to the Thread Library today. This new module will create a negative space version of a thread, taking care of all the clearance calculations for you. All you need to do is pass it the same parameters as the thread it is meant to screw onto.

I also added a module to create a hexagonal nut that screws onto any threaded rod with the same parameters, but as a more interesting example, I chose to demo the new capability with a split lead nut.

Print and clamp the two parts over a lead screw or trapezoidal threaded rod, such as the ones found in many CNC machines, and attach them with two nuts & bolts.

The lead nut, if it is not allowed to rotate, will be forced in and out by the rotation of the lead screw ... but you all know CNC machines, you understand this already.

The images show the split lead nut, the negative space with the built-in chamfers, and a cut-away view of a hexagonal nut on a rod, to show the clearances.

Making a cube in OpenScad takes just one line of code. Making it nicer (with rounded corners) takes... 40 lines of code!
But hey, the good thing about OpenScad is that once someone makes a library, everything becomes trivial.
So now, making tidy iPhonesque shapes requires just a line of code:
roundCornersCube(10,5,2,1);

The goal of this project was to develop a low cost, open source inkjet printer utilizing standard inkjet technology, for personal use. This project was partly in response to the fact that there are no DIY inkjet kits available. There was a kit available from Parallax parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/robo/InkjetKitDocs-v1.0.pdf. This kit is no longer made and the book amazon.com/Inkjet-Applications-Matt-Gilliland/dp/0972015930 that was written to use that kit is now out of print.
The prototype design used a carriage assembly constructed from steel rods that were assembled using connectors that can be printed on an FDM machine. The entire carriage system is driven along the x-axis by a belt attached to a stepper motor. The print cartridge, taken from an HP point of sale printer, is driven along the y-axis by another stepper motor belt drive. The electronic controls use an Arduino Mega to run all of the printing systems.
The design resulted in a working prototype that fulfills all of the design constraints. The rod frame carriage design is lightweight, easy to assemble and easy to integrate with the other systems. The Arduino used in the electronics has a large library of resources available to perform things like LCD, SD card, and stepper control.
Areas where future work should be focused include making molds and casting printable parts to bring down the overall cost, developing host side software, and optimizing the speed.

There is a video of this working here: youtube.com/watch?v=fYeYeTGkvJM
There are additional pictures here: flickr.com/photos/nicholasclewis/sets/72157626730985822/

This was a group project involving:
Patrick Hannan
Jared Knutzen
Nicholas C Lewis
Joy Markham

Looking for ways to rebuild my two cupcakes in the search of the uber-cupcake, I stumbled on tinkerings' hybrid pololu / makerbot stepper driver. This thing is awesome and I had to have one. But looking at it closer I thought the trace routing could be a bit better with larger traces, tighter tolerances, and I felt it needed a little more power.

So I rerouted the board, brought everything up to the top layer (dip switches would be worlds easier to adjust without taking the board off the bot), changed all the surface mount parts to 0805, and added an ATX-4 connector for a little more amperage. I also removed three of the endstop connections (because who really needs six?) to reduce the size of the board even more. Now its only a tiny bit bigger than the existing makerbot stepper drivers. With the right capacitors I still think it gets pretty good airflow under the drivers... these A4983 drivers rock and don't get too hot on the makerbot.

Update: Everything works like a charm! The images show the cupcake after installation and even though my wiring is not fully done it makes a huge difference in the tidiness of the electronics. If my x carriage wasn't acting up the bot would be much quieter... the extruder motor is louder than the steppers.

Update: Make sure that the belt tension is adjusted properly, as in looser than you think should even work - this was my problem with the x carriage. Then you need to dial back the current using the trimpot on the pololus until the motors move smoothly and quietly. Properly adjusted this thing is as quiet, well, as quiet as a resonant plywood box can be.

This is my version of the mantis router, makeyourbot.org/mantis9-1 as designed originally by David Carr. This design is adapted to metric sizes (do away with Henry IV's thumb!)and enlarged to a groundplate of 30x30 cm. The working volume is slightly more than 190 x 130 x 40 mm, depending on how precise you work.

This is still a bit of a work in progress but I think it's mostly workable now.

Warning! There be overhangs here!

I have yet to see what sort of torque this can handle but it seems like it will handle quite a bit. I'm able to stop it if I grab two of the screws sticking out of the planet carrier. Hopefully I'll measure the torque soon.

This is intended to be used with another bearing somewhere on the output shaft. I can't imagine that it would handle any load with only one bearing on there. A different cover could easily be made with a spot for another bearing.


The current design adds 38.5mm in length to your stepper, it could be less but the makerbot supplied stepper that I have has long shaft so I had to make it longer to stop it from interfering with the bolt for the output.
It could probably be 5mm or so shorter pretty easily with a shorter stepper shaft.

Change Log

5/11/2011 Initial Upload
5/12/2011 Switched to 2x 683ZZ bearings for planets, shortened planets a bit, increased backlash and clearance, added list of some possible ratios
5/13/2011 Added addendum/dedendum adjustment to gear library for internal gear.
Removed most of the constants at the top and switched to arguments with defaults
Added multi-stage capability, now you can stack multiple stages in one case
5/20/2011 Added a way to get a screw in to bolt to the stepper and nuts in so that you can bolt it to something (I didn't think it would be too easy to find screws to go through the whole thing into the stepper)
Added a relief on the underside of the cover to clear the screws in the carrier.
5/25/2011 Uploaded separate STLs and modified involute_gears library

After playing around with fillets on this thing: thingiverse.com/thing:8416 I was determined to create a generalized Bezier function for usage in OpenScad.

This thing, or rather the OpenScad file, is public domain code for creating Bezier curves within OpenScad.

It is a foundational piece. It will only create Bezier curves defined by 4 control points. Those are typically the most useful in hand constructed graphics as found in OpenScad.

Hopefully this little piece of goodness will enable people to create very curvacious things in OpenScad. Extending the function to 3D can be easily done.

UPDATE: Added a couple more pictures that show different ways of using the beast. Perhaps the coolest is using a Bezier curve to change color over the surface of the object.

this design uses only hand tools so that anyone can make it

DARANISUKE comes for 1,300 years.
This is an old drug in Japan.

In herbal medicine good for the stomach and intestines.
Hangover also takes effect.
It is very bitter.

DARANISUKE will take 30 tablets at a time.
However, the spoon is included, only 10 holes.
I made 30 holes.

I am all right at once in this.

------------------------
Added　DARANISUKE saucer

Yet another extruder design, but this one is designed to be built with simple tools for tightfisted repstrappers like me, who want to build it themselves, not just buy it. It's about the journey...

You know how it is; you're building your RepStrap and there's very few ways of building the extruder; you have to buy parts that you can't re-use when you print a Mendel, or use a compromised design in the knowledge a new extruder is about the first thing you're going to have to print before your lash-up breaks - if it works at all! And because the repstrap you're building has limited axes, the chunky thing you've made out of tree trunks limits your build size to 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cubes. Probably. So inspired a bit by seeing BodgeItQuick's version thingiverse.com/derivative:4878, I designed a simpler version of KurtCircuit's Sliced Wade's Geared Nema 17 Extruder thingiverse.com/thing:5548, which is itself based on the now legendary Wade's Geared Nema 17 Extruder by Wade thingiverse.com/thing:1794. KurtCircuit's version was designed to be laser cut, with minimal drilling. Mine is designed so it's ALL pretty much drilling.

This version is built from 5 layers of 9mm MDF, ply or pretty much anything that you can machine. Depending on the depth of your bearings, you could use thinner wood eg 6mm. I've chosen MDF, and I'm planning on building this thing this week, but thought I'd share it with you lot in case I've overlooked something. It still needs the gears, but I am going to canabalise an old inkjet printer, and hope I can get something resembling the right size cogs out of it. Otherwise it's off to the bay of fleas to, er, "help support the community of independent reprap manufacturers". Or something. I have a set of taps and dies to make the hobbed bolt too.

I also expect to run this with a Bowden cable reprap.org/wiki/Erik%27s_Bowden_Extruder. I know they have their problems, but I'm hoping it's close enough to a Wade's that it will work okay, and built well enough and strong enough that it will survive for a while. It's a bit too chunky and print area limiting to mount on the Z-axis of my developing repstrap, a mrkim's 1X2 thingiverse.com/thing:5773. Also, it doesn't use springs to apply pressure to the idler, just captive nut/bolt. I'm not sure how well this will work, but didn't want it to be overcomplimicated.

Update 3rd May 2011
I have built this up now, and have hobbed the bolt etc. Seems to have good torque and grip on 3mm threaded rod. I'll have to wait for my electronics board and some 3mm filament to test it working. On to the hot end...

I've been using these OpenSCAD modules in my models, developing new parts for my different projects. I decided to compile the parts into one library and release it into the Thingiverse wild. Several people have been looking for printable washers and nyloc nuts recently, and have released them as individual things. Also, someone just asked me for specs on the dovetail I used on my makerbottable filament spool. All of these things are in my library, including:

Shape primitives
Hexagrams,
Equilateral triangles (prisms),
3 sided pyramids and tetrahedrons,
4 sided pyramids including a Johnson's Solid square pyramid (a cube cut along its diagonal),
tubes (hollow cylinders with variable wall thicknesses),
slots with selectable round or square end(s),
teardrop (as designed by whosawhatsis, thingiverse.com/thing:3457)
dovetail pins and slots to attach parts without connectors,
rounded corner rectangles, and
keyhole slots.
The rounded rectangles and keyholes can be seen my quick release x-Rod caps, thingiverse.com/thing:4765
The dovetails can be seen on my Makerbottable filament Spool, thingiverse.com/thing:4337

Hardware Parts
Hex Nuts,
Washers,
Cap Bolts,
Hex Bolts, and
Bearings

These parts are modeled by the part's name or size for mockups or to difference out voids in a model. For instance hexNut("M6") will give the appropriate sized hardware. The sizes are included in an extensible table, so if you have a specific part, you can just add it's dimension, name it, and use it.

Miscellaneous functions and useful stuff
I included a function that will globally adjust the number of triangles used in rounded objects based upon a single "displayMode" variable. For screen display, spheres will be facetless, but by changing only one variable, you can reduce the facet count for printing to about 1mm resolution.

Several functions to rotate and translate objects in only one plane, with names that (to me) are easy to remember. for instance, rotate(tighten()) will twist an object along the z plane clockwise 90 degrees (like tightening a lid on a jar). Likewise Push() moves an object away, Slide() to the side, and Lift() up.

Last, is a rudimentary table module and access functions (alluded to under the hardware section). You can put any data in the table, with a named header row, add names for the various columns in a column table, and subsequently locate all of the data in that row or any individual entry by using the functions tableRow(rowName) or tableEntry(rowName, columnName). The library has a selection of bearings, and both metric and US bolts/washers/nuts included, but you can always add more. The table can be used for just about anything, including positions within your model that you can refer to like this: translate(tableRow("Front Tire Position");

I hope you like it and if you have upgrade ideas, e-mail me and I'll try to incorporate the changes here.

If you REALLY like it, feel free to flattr it. :o)

UPDATE New version uploaded on 5/7/11, old version removed. Fixed bug in bearing() module that doubled the expected size (used diameter as radius). Added rezPrinter and rezScreen functions for adjusting facet sizes.

One problem that has often plagued users of the MakerBot Unicorn[1] is the long and confusing chain of tools required to go from a nice vector drawing to a G-Code file that can be plotted from ReplicatorG.

mifga did an awesome tutorial[2] that made it possible to understand the steps needed to work all of these tools, but it was obvious that something better was needed.

So, I made a mashup of scribbles.py[3] and the Egg-Bot Driver for Inkscape[4] to bring you the inkscape-unicorn extension for Inkscape!

Once installed, this extension allows you to save files in "MakerBot Unicorn G-Code (*.gcode)" format!

Learn more, download, and contribute at the GitHub page for this project:

github.com/martymcguire/inkscape-unicorn

If you're desperate, you can also download the zip file attached to this thing, but it is guaranteed to be out of date. Please get the latest version from GitHub. :)

Thanks to langfordw for the original Unicorn Logo[5] used as an example on this Thing.

UPDATES!

I'm updating and adding features to this script as my first days for the February Thing-A-Day. Updates below:

* Day 1, Release: thing-a-day.com/thing-a-day-2011-1-unicorn-pen-plotter-extens
* Day 2, Registration and Homing: thing-a-day.com/new-features-for-inkscape-unicorn-pen-registr
* Day 3, Copies and Continuous Plotting: thing-a-day.com/thing-a-day-2011-3-copies-and-continuous-plot


[1] Unicorn - store.makerbot.com/makerbot-unicorn-pen-plotter-kit.html
[2] mifga's Unicorn Tutorial - wiki.makerbot.com/unicorn-tutorial-01
[3] scribbles.py - github.com/makerbot/Makerbot/tree/master/Unicorn/Scribbles%20Scripts
[4] Egg-Bot Driver for Inkscape - code.google.com/p/eggbotcode/
[5] Unicorn Logo by langfordw thingiverse.com/thing:4197

I have modified Zaggo's original design to make the slot a lot bigger and square, it now fits my iPhone 4 with its case on. It should still fit the 3G series and probably a lot of other Apple devices as it's quite a large slot.

I've printed this in translucent blue PLA on my MakerBot Thing-O-Matic, you should be able to print it in ABS as long as you have a heated build platform.

This is a custom built version of the latest ReplicatorG (24) that includes to option to home your Makerbot using only one GCode (M138). It also includes a ready to use custom-built firmware for both the Thingomatic and the Cupcake that stores all of the data needed to home the Makerbot, right on the Makerbot! In permanent EEPROM memory! This means that one no longer has to re-slice all of their model STL files just to fix their homing routine! Just run through the GUI based setup process again (located in the control panel) to recalibrate your homing position and the Makerbot should start every print from its new home location without any re-skeining. In addition to being easier to use and modify than messing around with the old homing routine in the Start.txt file, opens up the possibility of using the same Start.txt file for multiple bots (Yay botfarming!)


If you're curious about the code involved in this script. You can find the sourcecode in my Github Repos (with a pending pull to the ReplicatorG and MB firmware trunk)
Here: git://github.com/xtremd/ReplicatorG.git

And here for the custom Makerbot firmware: git://github.com/xtremd/Xtremd.git


Disclaimer: This homing routine does an intricate dance designed to keep nozzle crashing possibilities to a minimum. It should always work but sometimes (usually due to user error/misread instructions/badly coded start.gcode/Evil Gremlins) very bad things can happen. Please be careful when first using this! I am in no way responsible for your bot driving a very hot nozzle through its build platform due to some user error or any other horrible train-wreck set of circumstances!!


Sorry that sounded so much like a TV infomercial. Happy Hacking! :)

This is a heavily cleaned & modified version of artur83's Penrose Triangle, which was a great design however not printable.

It is now enlarged (longest dimension 99.97mm) and printable on almost any FDM printer without requiring support. Walls have been thickened at the bottom to ensure a secure footing and to minimise excess overhang angles.

Best viewed with one eye closed - looking at it with 2 eyes almost ruins the illusion :)

A clip, for clipping things.

The clip was based on the clear clip in the images.

I have uploaded the UG NX6 design files in the zip file if anyone wishes to use them.