The guys at Moving Brands challenged us to help them print their own Chocolate Advent Calendar in a month.

We already knew about the Frostruder, and had most of the parts to build a RepRap Prusa, so the solution seemed obvious. They ordered a Frostruder, and we got busy building their Prusa.

Things got exciting when we tried to mount the Frostruder to the Prusa carriage - it was just too big and bulky!

Luckily, inspiration struck. We stripped down the Frostruder to the bare bones, and used the Prusa to print its own adaptor.

Lo and behold, chocolate printing goodness!

Moving Brands Advent Promotional Video: vimeo.com/33775105
Moving Brands Advent Calendar: movingbrands.com/advent

Storage cabinets are great for organizing small parts. Unfortunately the one I recently bought from Lowes didn't come with drawer dividers, so I fired up OpenSCAD and made my own.

The script is fully parameterized so you can customize it to fit whatever drawers are out there. The default values fit the smaller drawers on a Shop Stack-On 39-Drawer Storage Cabinet ( lowes.com/pd_124553-941-DSB-39_ )

For updates, check out the code on github: github.com/jherrm/Drawer-Divider

For more info, see this post: jherrman.com/2012/02/3d-printed-drawer-dividers/

Cheese on a board should never be picked at with fingers. (even if you claim you never did). To prevent reoccurences I have designed a finger attachment so that you can dig away to your hearts content, safe in the knowledge that grubby nails are not contaminating anything.

filament dust remover for "hinged extruder". No fixing needed.

NEW VERSION AT: thingiverse.com/thing:16483

More on the regularly updated wiki : reprap.org/wiki/FoldaRap

Soon I'll be able to travel around the town/country/world with my little folding RepRap !

Work in progress, but here is the Sketchup models for those who want to play with it :)

Printable gripper for the HOAP-3

This is a lightweight flexible shaft extruder, that i designed for highspeed printing.
The idea was to keep the stepper away from the moving parts so not too much mass has to be accelerated without the disadvantages of a bowden-extruder. (i posted a early idea of ot here thingiverse.com/thing:6653)
Another idea was to replace the passive idler bearing with a active second hobbed-thing as well as using gears with a bigger diameter to garanty better grip when extruding at high speed. Also the distance between the gears and the nozzle is relativel short for more direct drive.
The extreuder consists of two parts, each of which can rotate around the worm-axis. this way the distance between the worm and the gears always stays the same, but the pressure for driving the filament can be adjusted.
The name slugstruder is because of two reasons. in germany we call wormgears something like snail-gears (Schneckengetriebe) and slugs are something like snails as well. Another reason is that i like brainslugs ;)

The flex-shaft i will use is one from a motorbike - speedo. These have one prefered direction to rotatet, so be sure to pick one that has the same rotation as the worm gear that u're using. If the torque for thsi one is not enough i will try a dremel like one later.

This is a work in progress.
The parts i added are only to take a look at the design and do not work till now (the spring tensioner thing and some holes are still missing)
also the connection to the flexshaft is missing..
The gears are some standard parts that should be available everywhere.
The bigger holes are teardrop shaped to improve printability, but i could also supply some files with round holes.

This is a simple lens hood that fits 58mm Canon Lenses.

Same as my previous version except using the larger drive wheel from McMaster Carr Part Number 6867K557.

Also added the Quick Release design and ancestry for convenience.
thingiverse.com/thing:7113

I think BOTH originals are Brilliant Designs and I applaud the CREATORS !

I lost it and I couldn't buy a replacement, so I bought a 3D printer and I built my own.
I added a hole to accomodate a screw for the camera.

This upgrade to the ancestor also was resized to fit the SLR size gorilla tripod.

Since I've been swapping out my build platforms with my quick change build platform thing #14747, I've realized I needed a way to keep the ABP wiring harness from flailing around. This thing allows you to quickly secure or remove the wiring harness to your ABP.

Small (and dirty ;) ) script to convert grayscale heightmaps to stl models. Usable for landscapes or terrain prints.

Supported Image Formats: GIF, PNG (preferred), JPEG, BMP

This is a fold-down Gen4 interface board that goes into the front "left" side of the thing-o-matic.

This is a derivative work of an ingenious design by a clever man.

Instead of printing the front-face plate out of ABS plasic, I instead cut it out of acrylic. The hinges are made of wood.

This is a 3-digit, base-10 register for an electromechanical computer I'm working on. It is stepper-driven, and works like a 3-digit counter, counting from 000-999 before rolling over. When all three digit wheels read '0-0-0', 3 reed switches will close and a circuit will be completed to detect the condition.

Adapter to use Pentax K mount lenses with a Micro Four Thirds camera.

Print information: eMaker Huxley, supply3dpla.com PLA at 0.2mm layers

These bed holders/corners aim to solve the dreaded XY wobble arising from crooked threaded rods. They also prevent the upper bed from shaking with respect to the lower bed on the 3 sprung M8 bolts. Finally they allow fine bed height adjustment at 4 corners rather than just 3 points.

This is version 15 of my design and the best so far, but it does not remove wobble 100%. I am very receptive to ideas to improve it. To give you an idea of my early designs, here is a youtube video of version ~8:

youtube.com/watch?v=LSeArlGSxtA

Installing these will be a hassle the first time as partial disassembly is required to remove the original bed holders. However my replacements are designed to be easily upgradable so please bare with the pain :)

I realise there are a lot of steps below, but it is quite simple and a lot of it will be obvious just by looking at the photos. The only tricky parts you need to obtain are 12x linear bearings (the same type used on the X and Y belt idlers) and 8x 35mm-long M3 bolts. These quantities are for a full installation of 4 bed holders, which I recommend as it would be tricky to mix and match these with the original bed holders.

PS I have quite a few bearings and 35mm M3 bolts left over, if anyone in Australia wants some, just send me a message.

This LensCap holder is designed for a standard Sony Alpha with a diameter of 54mm and a strap wide of 10mm.

For more joy the inside was filled with a redrawn symbol of the imperial forces.

This is a fully functional microphone shock mount for a side-address microphone. (Also called a "spider mount.") It's functionally equivalent to equipment that can cost around $50 to buy retail. This design is meant to be printed on a RepRap style 3D printer.

I've been thinking that I want a more portable reprap printer. One that I can collapse together so that it fits into a smaller space while moving it. I think maybe it'd be possible to do an adaptation of the printrbot design and edit it (as shown in the picture) so that the platform can be lifted up.

It's not done yet, but the files show the idea. It's sort of a derivative of printrbot I guess, but all the files are mine.

Several of the components could be taken from thingiverse.com/thing:14208 which is a bit more advanced in some areas, and parametric.

Comments are welcome. I'll try to finish it and print it to see how it works in real life.

The moi3d files that contain the design are attached.

You can use this apparatus for solvent welding multiple lengths of plastic T-Slot < thingiverse.com/thing:10261 > together. The jig will allow you to compensate for warped beams and produce straight and usable T-Slot of arbitrary length.

20mm Plastic T-Slot - Rev 2
Completely redesigned; the new beam prints faster and is stronger both against deflection and torsion.

UPDATE: Added DXF of Profiles. Naming convention is [dimensions]-[bolt size]-[Wall Thickness]-[Multiplier]. We are starting to prefer 1pt6 (1.6) wall thickness profiles and find printing them No Infill, 1 Extra Loop, No solid Layers, with a trace thickness of .8mm results in a quick and adequetly strong beam.

These beams are being designed as the main structural component for a 3d printer though arguably they are of more use as a general hobby framing and mounting set. That said they are designed with both printing and commercial extrusion in mind.

If printed in ABS, they can be solvent welded with the aid of a T-Slot Welding Jig thingiverse.com/thing:13598 and ABS Glue thingiverse.com/thing:14490 . A center hole increases the beams second moment of inertia while aiding in fusing beams.

PLA beams are more rigid though they are not as easy to fuse into various lengths.

Hardware
An example of Friction Fit hardware is located -
Here - thingiverse.com/thing:9797
& Here - thingiverse.com/thing:13599

The standard beam profile is meant to accommodate both M3 hardware as well as 6-32 nuts and bolts. Both bolt heads or nuts will fit in the slot with an insert provided to help guide and captive M3 nuts. 6-32 Nuts will captive natively.

Alternative profiles are provided for M4 / 8-32 hardware as well as dedicated M3 and 6-32. All profiles are located in "20mm Profiles - Printing.skp" Use the 'Push/Pull' tool to create a profile of the desired length.

If the printing instructions are followed, these beams can be printed fast (going at even a moderate pace we're able to produce all the beams needed for a Prusa in under 12 hours). While the beams can technically be printing with any working profile, they will not print as quickly and may not perform as intended structurally.

Files
100mm Beam.stl - actual height is 101mm to allow for loss during welding
20mm Test Beam.stl - shorter for testing settings
M3 Nut Insert.stl - use with metric hardware
20mm Profile-Printing.skp - profile faces for printing and creating different heights
20mm Profile-True.skp - diagram of a properly printed profile
20mm Profile-Printing-pt4.skp - profiles based on 0.4mm widths, contains a M5 profile
M3 Nut Insert.skp - source file for insert

Check Back For
T-slot Profiles for Thing-O-Matic, Ultimaker & Mosaic at various resolutions, speeds.
OpenScad version to ease design of compatible hardware and accessories.

This allows you to use a 60mm fan on a Rapman. It requires the other half of zip cooling rapman made by bonleo.

I have a Rapman 3.0 however and had to use bobc derivative instead of bonleo's original version.

It also includes a mounting point for the DC power socket.

I took the .DXF files of the Thing-o-Matic and converted them to STL files and .SLDASM and .SLDPRT files.
I named the parts myself in what made sense for me and does not reflect the same naming scheme Makerbot Industry uses.
The parts have not been partitioned so that they can be printed out on a cupcake CNC or Thing-o-Matic. I don't have plans currently to do so but I may do so if there is a high demand for it.

I used the original .DXF files from Makerbot to make these. They're posted at thingiverse.com/thing:4973

Specific parts such as nuts and bolts have not yet been included.

I really like the design of this YAFSH, but the bottom parts is too big to printing on ABP. So I make bottom parts as two pieces. The bottom part B can also directly snap to the top part and make holder shorter.

Same as the ends on thingiverse.com/thing:11978 but with clamps for the Mendel (8mm) style rods. Just uses pressure to stay on the rod.

Sorry for the sloppy upload but I thought I'd just post my mod to this cool cable chain.

Uploaded left/right files so double check what you need.

i wanted something to put my printer in so i build it a flightcase
things i wanted:
- it had to look cool, so no square box
- it had to be able to print, both open and closed
- L shaped, so i could add a spool holder
- windows to see it print
- less than 1/2 sheet wood (flightcase wood is very expensive, and most vendors will sell you a 4ft by 4ft sheet)

all in all, flightcases aren't cheap, and mine came out at 180€ with everything
there are 2 good flightcase suppliers (adam hall and penn) about 98% of all flightcases i see at my job are from one or the other
on this one i used adam hall material, so i'll provide you a part list from them

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:9313 and thingiverse.com/thing:7278 I wanted to create my own camera rig using OpenSCAD, since the original would not necessarily work with the dimensions of vitamins easily available to me. Using thingiverse.com/thing:6894 got me started with the hard part, getting the proper gears.

Default dimensions are designed for a Manfrotto quick release plate and a Canon 50mm/F1.4.

I love rapid prototyping, this was stupefyingly easy to design. Just had to fix some minor quirks related to printing. First blood has been drawn, expect more.

Press fit cap for my lens - should work for any other camera as well (when properly parameterized).

This is just a derivative of a great spool holder from Charlespax, adapted with a plate to fit the BFB's printers. you don't need to drill to damage your printer to fix this stuff, this is a hook up thing!

Now with COLOSO-Gears!(tm).

An improved version of my prior design.

The Adapter Plate was just revised (to v1.2) the gearing was completely redesigned (which involved drawing the involute curves the hard way, which gave far better results).

Gears are 51 and 7 tooth respectively. Giving a ratio of 7.2857:1.
The gears are also oversized (COLOSO-Gears!(tm)). I will be uploading a slimmed down version in the near future, I just wanted to be sure I had a large enough meshing area.

Note that the new adapter plate is very wide, 90mm+ and will only just fit on the cupcake platform. I recomend printing a z-rider to get a larger build area!

Also, the 51 tooth gear is kinda massive. You might have issues printing it from ABS. As always, I recomend PLA.

The 7 tooth gear is TINY. Sorry. It will be a pain to get to print right. I broke mine trying to remove it from the build platform. Had to epoxy it back together.

UPDATE:
Added 14 tooth pinions sized for nema17 and 23 (5mm and 1/4" shafts).

Added an 8 tooth pinion (obsolete files gone, but 7 tooth gear left up for the brave).
I recomend that you print the small gears with 0 extra shells (infill of 0.1 or higher will result in solid teeth).

9 Tooth gear is off for now unless someone really really needs it

Here is a video of it running (and reversing thanks to SF35!)
flickr.com/photos/45928876@N02/5405071895/