This is a Keychain version of Emmett's screwless heart gears!

I'm still working on getting the scale right (small enough for a keychain, but big enough to print the details)

As it is, It needs a rather large fan blowing across the print to keep the gears from getting mangled.

Current scaling = .5

All parts are the same except Gear8, which has a hole through the tip for a keyring.

This thing is based on the Cuboro Marble track, but I didnt have one when I drew the pieces. The track is 22mm diameter and all turns are 22mm radius too.
Feel free to add new parts.

There is too many one push of the shampoo which I am using.
I made the spacer from which a stroke becomes half.
It's environment-friendly?

A locker for your storage needs in outer space. 1:18 scale, designed for the Makerbot Rocket Ship Playset.

This is one of the original dualstrusion files for the experimental dual MK7, modified from Belakor's design by MakerBot intern Will Langford.

I needed some brackets to hold a dial indicator in place for measuring the travel distance for all three axes on my Prusa. And I didn't want to have to remove the extruder or anything like that.

This simple set of parts should solve that problem for all of us.

This set *may* work on Mendel and other similar builds.

Give your RepRAP some attitude with this bling. "Know wat im sayin?" - j-roc

This is the filament guide that we use on all our MakerBot 3D printers at all our TechShop locations.

This filament guide is easy to print, fits well within the build envelope of the Thing-O-Matic (it won't quite fit in the Cupcake's build envelope through), doesn't warp when printed, and uses a small amount of plastic.

It provides trouble-free filament feeding, and bolts to the top of your MakerBot into existing holes with just two machine screws.

This filament guide is designed to be used with the bolt-on spool holder mounted on the top of your MakerBot. We mount our spool holder on top of the MakerBot at the front right corner, and we mount the filament guide in the holes on the top of the MakerBot in the front center.

The STL file can be downloaded from this post, as well as the editable Autodesk Inventor IPT file.

Did you know that Autodesk deeply supports the Maker Movement? You can download Autodesk Inventor for free if you are a student or educator, unemployed, or a veteran of the US military. Please see this MakerBot blog entry for information: makerbot.com/blog/2011/10/28/awesome-autodesk/

You can also use the entire Autodesk Inventor suite of software on high-end graphics workstations for free as a TechShop member at any TechShop location. See techshop.com to learn how to join TechShop, and find a location near you.

This fiament guide was designed Jim Newton, the founder of TechShop, using Autodesk Inventor 2012 running on a MacBook Pro 17 through Parallels.

After I printed and installed TechShopJim's Official TechShop Filament Guide (Thing # 16499) I discovered that with my spool mounted in the left of my TOM, the filament kept popping free of the tip. A little bit of mirroring and the problem was solved!

Updated model option-

Model now has text:
Save Power Turn me off
---------------------------------
A friend posted this on facebook and it just looked like a funny gift/Prank

Helicopters are complex machines. They require high quality parts that are strong, lightweight, and accurate. Those are terms typically not associated with parts made on home 3D printers.

But could they be?

We all know home machines are getting better, but could you actually print a working helicopter on a home 3D printer? The obvious place to start is the blades. They must be thin, light, smooth, and strong. If you can't print blades, you can't make a helicopter. So can you?

Well, spoiler alert: you can. But do they actually work? Or do they fly apart when they spin up, or generate too much turbulence to actually fly?
See for yourself:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXlUSWrVzys

Printed on my Ultimaker 3D printer, using Netfabb "Ultra" (0.08mm) profile, 100% infill, 100% speed, no raft. Takes about 26 minutes per blade.

The helicopter is the "JXD 340", or sometimes the "Drift King" because unlike most cheap helis, it can fly sideways. Its a pretty awesome toy for $30, and much better than most cheap helis I have seen. Personally, I recommend it. Have a link:
amazon.com/Indoor-Infrared-Control-Helicopter-Gyroscope/dp/B004OGBNJ8/
And no thats not an affiliate link, I just think those toys are sweet.

SAFETY NOTE: I recommend PLA because it sticks well and works well with small layer heights. HOWEVER, PLA is brittle, and when these blades break, they tend to shear off and send a sharp piece flying. The pieces are light and it may not be an issue, but you have been warned. If you're about to crash, cut throttle power so the blades stop spinning and the amount of energy put into them is reduced. They've survived plenty of nicks on things, but if you crash under power they will break. Ultimately though, I am not responsible. Print at your own risk.

Kane enters the plastic world. ;)

Not so awesome like Kanes brotherhood, but well...

The 3D printer Galileo is a 3d printer open source .It' s a derivated work from the model of the RepRap Prusa from which the movement of the axes X, Y, Z but have been substantial changes that have allowed achieve greater print area and a lower cost of implementation

Indice

1 Index
2 The Premises
2.1 Bigger Dimension
2.2 Cheaper Structure
2.3 Open Design
3 Benefits of the model:
4 Videos



The Premises

The RepRap Prusa has an intuitive design and a system of simple and easy assembly, the plastic parts that make up the structure are easy to handle and require no great difficulty in mounting them with the mechanical structure, and allow to obtain results even without linear bearings and other benefits . The final structure is solid and makes it easy to transport thanks to low weight.

Bigger Dimension

The first step was to increase the size of printable area.La structure has been developed in such a manner so as to have more space to print.

Cheaper Structure

Another significant change has affected the mechanical structure of the new printer.It was find a new structure that could use a smaller number of pieces and always have a solid one .Similar to the mechanical also plastic parts have also been modified where possible or completely renovated. all this has led to savings in economic terms but also in terms of time required to assemble the printer itself

Open Design

The structure of the new printer is made to have an open design that allow subsequent changes in every part, also the X-cart which moves the extruder-it was so designed as to be universal and can be used with any type of extruder .The 'print area is easily accessible for a heated bed or in order to analyze the subject in print a


Benefits of the model:
Quick and easy to assemble Model
Spare plastic Intuitive: easy to assemble and print
Number less than threaded rods
Number less than smooth bars
Amount less hardware
Belts shorter
Open Design
Extruder in view
X-Cart is compatible with all types of extruders available
Printing area easily accessible
Print the objects in view

Sorry for my English...
Best Regards
Lorenzo


Some Videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=0Q-ClmwHfTU&feature=player_embedded

youtube.com/watch?v=Nd-upXvIbSo&feature=player_embedded

First published here:
jamesrpatrick.com/2012/01/lm6uu-bearing-holder-upgrade.html

This upgrade is a drop-in replacement for the stock eMAKER bearing holders. Mine failed under regular use and I was prompted to design something better. Instead of wood screws, these use small zip-ties and attach to an eMAKER Huxley without permanent modification to the machine.

Advantages of my upgrade:
-part count remains the same or is reduced
-easier installation
-won't fail under regular use
-uses less printing material
-no overhangs; easier to print

Request: If you use this firmware, please take the time to click on "I Made One" with a picture of your bot or lcd.

This firmware took 1 month to write and is time I've donated to make the Gen 4 LCD Interface what it should have been.

Because this isn't something printable, the best appreciation you can show for this work is to encourage others to use it by keeping it on the Thingiverse front page. Thanks to those who have done this already.

This is a major Motherboard firmware upgrade for the Gen 4 LCD Interface, to enable true standalone operation.

Supports: ThingOMatic, Cupcake, Reprap and Others.

An older video showing some of the features in V1.0: youtube.com/watch?v=ONPvZaEAoBQ

** NEW ** Firmware Manual: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware

This firmware contains many new features, some of which are: extruder control, preheat, profiles, calibration, multicolored printing, mood light, buzzer and build time estimation.

Feature list: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc3

Requirements: wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc1

Latest Changes: (Version 2.5 - 01/25/12): wiki.makerbot.com/jetty-firmware#toc33

Any updates will be placed here, so check back often.

Note: This is not an official Makerbot firmware release.

I have deleted all the Things previously sent to Thingiverse. This Wheel Assembly should work a little better.

[Update] This thing unfortunately was one of the victims of the recent “catastrophic hardware failure” at Thingiverse.com. It used to be "thing:4811", now it's "thing:4812" :)
I'm not sure if it's possible to recover the comments on the original thing (as far as I know, the comments section is outsourced and not part of the thiniverse servers).
Also, the "Likes" are gone... Do you still like this thing?

---

Since the original frame of my Gaui 330XS Quadrocopter was damaged in a crash, I built a new frame from scratch, using printed plastic parts.
The four arms are 10x10mm wood profiles (cheap, sturdy, light weight). The motors and electronics are cannibalized from the crashed Gaui Quadrocopter. But it should be no problem to use other motors and/or electronics for this.

A simple motor holder for an arducopter. Works with the 3DR Quad frame and the standard AC2830-358 motors.

The pictures show the motor holder inserted into the arm of the 3DR frame. Originally the motor is mounted on top of the arm, exposing the wires. The original mounting configuration is also shown.

This is a motor mount designed to fit onto the ends of 5/8" towel bars as found at Home Depot.

This is a fully parametric, fully printable, quadrocopter frame design done with Inventor. With this design you can print a quadrocopter with a 160-260mm motor to motor distance, giving enough room to accommodate props from 101.6mm (4") to 177.8mm (7").

Motivation: I wanted to build a quadrocopter which I could use to learn with, a basic requirement of this being that I need to be able to fix it with minimal cost and difficulty. So its a good job I have a 3d printer!

Draft: I started this design with the intention of squeezing all the electronics into the centre of the hub area, in the same plane as the arms. I completed a draft with this in mind, but I wasn't happy with how much plastic it consumed and I also hadn't given any though to how I would route cables around the frame. In addition to this, I based the design on "guestimate" dimensions, it was always going to need some sort of reworking.

Revision 1 (Pictured): The draft design gave me some good ideas to move forward with, it also gave me the confidence to buy the parts I'd need to eventually get this thing into the air. For this revision I moved the electronics to a more standard location on top of the hub area. There are fixing holes for the electronics on a square of 45mm about the centre, this can be varied. Another variable dimension is the motor to motor distance, which for this revision is set at 180mm allowing for a 10.16-12.7mm (4-5") prop.

With this revision I gave a little thought to routing of wires and came up with the "power layer". This component stacks with the hub of the quadrocopter and allows the esc's and battery to plug into the frame. Many quadrocopters suffer from the "flying spaghetti monster" problem, this solution goes some way to alleviate that.

This is the design I have printed, as it turns out I was being a bit ambitious with the prop size, all things accounted for it weighs about 450g. I calculate about 600g of thrust with this set up meaning its going to have to run at over 3/4 throttle to fly. Whilst not a show stopper its certainly going to strain the motors and esc's, and I doubt its going to be manoeuvrable.

Landing gear has also been added, not sure how it will perform but it certainly looks the part.

Revision 2: This design incorporates some lessons I learned from the previous revision. The arms are thinner, making them lighter per unit length, and allowing for greater prop sizes up to 177.8mm (7"). The thinner arms also mean the hub area uses less plastic, more weight saving. The minimum thickness of all components has also been reduced slightly in an attempt to remove some more redundant plastic. Due to the allowance for larger props I hope to achieve over 1kg of thrust with this design, giving much more acceptable performance.

Major Dimensions:
motor_to_motor = Distance between motor centers, dictates arm length which is limited by build platform size.
arm_width = Self explanatory
arm_height = Self explanatory
mounting_square = The side length of the square who's corners lie at the center of the mounting holes.
hub_square = Width of the hub.
pinch_gap = Width of the gap between the top and bottom hub components.
power_thickness = The max thickness of your power distribution circuit.
battery_width = Self explanatory
battery_thickness = Self explanatory
structural_cover = The minimum thickness of any section.

Please take note, I havent flown this yet. I ordered a receiver that as incompatible with my transmitter and am waiting for a replacement from chine (boo). I shall update this thing with pictures and hopefully videos when I get the last bits in place.

I'm open to any suggestions as to how I can improve this design further. Moving forward, I'm going to experiment with different thickness's in an attempt to find a good trade off between weight and strength.

Electronics Supplemental
Some info on the electronics was requested. There is an awful lot of choice in this respect, you ultimately need to decide on a control unit and a drive system. For my control unit (not pictured) I use an Arduino nano, "All in one" sensor board which can be found on ebay, and a fly sky 6 channel receiver (FS-R6B) to go with my fly sky transmitter (FS-TH9X). Such a control system will work for any quad configuration. The drive system is dependent on the quadrocopter weight and maximum allowable prop diameter, this choice is non trivial and I suggest you visit some quadrocopter forums where you will find a huge amount of sadvice and suggestions.

There is a wealth of further information at Aeroquad.com and multiwii.com

I'm not a huge fan of the acrylic motor mounts that come with the arducopter kit. I already cracked one of them landing my copter in a tree.

This is a one piece replacement that moves the motor inboard by 16mm so that two of the motor screws go through the arm so it's not dangling off the end of the arm.

They weigh a tiny bit less than the acrylic ones (8g w/ 75% fill vs 10g)

I haven't flown these yet. I'm still printing them out.

It should be pretty easy to modify this for different motors (I already have some constants in there for some turnigy motors I have but I haven't tested them out yet).

This is a base frame (landing feet) for my quadrokopter
One part has a mountingplace for the beeper (see photo).
It fit on a 10mm Aluminium rigger.
For the mounting you nees a M3-metal screw.

This is my own design quadcopter; 4x4 central station with 4 sections, expandable to fit more sensors, cameras, etc. Has no landing gear for the time being. Can be printed or CNC'd, although I have none of these tools. (Trolled... hehe) Makerbots/other desktop printers will not be able to make this.

Well... looks like Thingiverse doesn't like rendering my files. Oh well worked in Solidworks 2011.

And also, Solidworks Assemblies translate into a bunch of parts in STL, so I guess you'll just have to wing it if you want to put it together. Shouldn't be hard, though. Tell me if I'm missing anything.

EDIT wow those are some UGLY stl renders.

Plates for a 3dprinter of thingiverse.com/thing:2415 . They are done in openscad and require the original files from the Mini servo gripper.

There are currently two plates: one for geared parts, another for the rest of the parts. This is so you can print the gears at better quality and to avoid possible ooze making them not fit properly.

The original versions are just a plate directly made from the original files. There is also gripper_plate_v2 which contains tweaks for 3d printing. Namely it merges both 4mm tall arms into a single 8mm tall one and the base is modified to fit an HXT900 servo and merges both servo plates. This decreases the parts needed and helps
simplify assembly.

A video of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=-3I8lXD45wI

Files:
- gripper_plate.scad: Openscad code for the original plate.
- gripper_plate_gears.scad: Openscad code for the gear plate.
- gripper_plate.stl: Rendered model of the original plate.
- gripper_plate_gears.stl: Rendered model of the gear plate.
- gripper_plate_v2.scad: Openscad code for the modified plate.
- gripper_plate_v2.stl: Rendered model of the modified plate.
- Gripperservoplate_v2.stl: The new servo holder part (in gripper_plate_v2).

Total weight assembled with Natural PLA: 53 grams (including servos and screws).

Making a tricopter or duocopter (twincopter) or something that needs single-axis vectored thrust? Here's the solidworks and STL files for the redesigned mount for the smaller hexTronik 20gram motors I'm using.

These are the motors I've got:
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8478__hexTronik_20gram_Brushless_Outrunner_2300kv.html

Everything is parameterized in solidworks for easy modification, but this should fit mostly any motor of this size.

This is a frame for a quadrocopter made out of 2mm birch plywood. It is designed for manufacturing using a 3-axis CNC mill or an Laser-Cutter.
The frame was designed in XMAS 2010 and has successfully tested by over 20 builders during the last year.

A full description of the project can be found here:
flugwiese.de/index.php/projekte/41-schaummodelle/112-murkelcopter
(unfortuneately all in German, but a lot more pictures and links to english pages)

Why is it called the "Murkelcopter" ? Well, the name was given to it by my daughter when she saw the first prototype of the frame

This is a full set of .STL files for the ArduCopter Quad frame and a mostly complete set of DXF files. There was a user on a DIY Drones Post offering up the open source files in any format. I simply asked for .STL. The DXF set was from a user that made a carbon fiber frame.

This is my first attempt to make printable Bowden tube holder to Emaker Huxley. Normally the tube is hold in place by pneumatic connector, but the 3mm PTFE (nylon) tube is so slippery it tends to get loose every now and then.

Based on the initial tests, this seems to be working fine.

Same as the ends on thingiverse.com/thing:11978 but with clamps for the Mendel (8mm) style rods. Just uses pressure to stay on the rod.

Sorry for the sloppy upload but I thought I'd just post my mod to this cool cable chain.

Uploaded left/right files so double check what you need.