Egg cup for medium sized chicken eggs with decorative hearts pattern

This is a parametric version of FdS' flex-box.
You can edit the file using your favorite text editor (notepad, vi, emacs, pico) to change the height, width, and length of the box. Then send the file to your laser cutter and you will have yourself an awesome little box.

edit: v 1.1 some clean-up and bug fixes

This is an implementation of Nikola Tesla's "Valvular Conduit" that acts as a one-way-valve without any moving parts.

blog.makezine.com/2012/01/05/the-tesla-valve-one-way-flow-with-no-moving-parts/

This implementation follows Tesla's patent diagrams, perhaps too closely. It works, but the cap is a bit leaky so I plan to re-design it in the future.

This is the real deal, no derivatives here. These are the real Printrbot in it's current version. I have a bunch of these printing all day, every day.... it works. It is expandable to larger widths and heights easier than any other reprap out there. Period. Its the most inexpensive bot out there being mass produced. And, its now yours to print, build, improve, change.... whatever you like. I can't wait to see what you do with it. I will post pics of all the various forms it takes, news, etc at printrbot.com
-enjoy
Brook

v of vendetta mask

Procedurally-generated panpipes for 3D printing. They really whistle, but they aren't particularly accurately tuned. OpenSCAD file included.

It'll theoretically play a chromatic scale (12 notes to the octave) but it's too squeaky to know for sure!

This is just a simple design that can be used for a number of things. Most commonly the commercial equivalent of this is used to blow air or liquid over tools on CNC machines, drill presses, etc. I am thinking of using it as an articulated arm to hold camera flashes off-camera and run wires through the center. Anything is possible.

Feel free to post up modifications, as this is tweaked to the fraction of a millimeter for my specific machine to be exactly as tight as I wanted them to be.

Note: I break a few here and there when putting them together. This is to be expected, and possibly thickening up the "neck" would fix this. I print 3 x 2 using multiply so this isn't a huge deal to break one every now and then.

EDIT: I uploaded all three resolutions. The highest is what made the links in the picture, but you may have similar luck with the other two resolutions. Thanks!

After I added the tapered mouthpiece to the whistles, and with the hotdog-red ABS, these things remind me of a toy wienermobile I used to have. Thus the name.

This panflute is slightly more practical than the one it's derived from. The curved shape is easier to use than the circle, and I added a bit of taper to the mouthpiece to make it easier to blow on a single whistle. Still not a practical musical instrument, though!

This one has a diatonic scale (CDEFGABC) instead of chromatic like the other one. I had to learn the OpenSCAD lookup() function for that!

This is a half-size version of Stefan's double-size minifig, with added attachment posts – you may have to shave the posts to get them to fit.

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

This 24" high game table is intended to be cut from a 2x4' panel of 3/4" stock material such as plywood or MDF. The legs slot together and the top is secured between tabs at their upper corners. The reversible top might be painted with, say a chessboard on one side and a backgammon board on the other.

This is a half-height bookshelf made from 5 pieces of 3/4" plywood cut from a 4x4' blank according to the plan below. This prototype was made from Finnish plywood, stained with Minwax "Island Water," and treated with boiled linseed oil.

he parts have been designed to minimize wastage in the parts blank while maximizing available shelf space. The puzzle shelves unit can stand up against a wall to provide a "fourth shelf" below the other three, or it can be turned over and stand on its own.

Additionally, the prototype includes a new experimental locking halved joint which uses a foam rubber ball to keep the joined members together. The plan could easily be modified to use conventional halved joints.

Instead of flat slot-ends, the slots in the puzzle shelves unit are terminated with hole-saw cuts, giving the finished slot a kind of "keyhole" shape. When two slotted members are halved together, a spherical void is formed by the perpendicular overlap of the round cuts. A foam rubber ball, in this case a practice golf ball from the sporting goods store, is popped into this spherical recess from an oblique angle, locking the two members together and cushioning their motion against one another.

My son loves the 50p foam gliders we get from the model shop so I have made him a super sized glider based on a Spitfire. Its cut from 2.6mm balsa wood with a 5mm clear acrylic nose and 3mm dowel pins holding it together - no glue as long as the dowels are tight enough.

Back in 1980 my grandparents bought me a toy - "Little Van Goes" by Tomy. This was a bunch of plastic plates that had raised images of van parts. You could combine three plates in a holder, put a piece of paper on it, and rub with a crayon to make the most awesome 70's vans you could imagine. There were others of this type of toy, but pretty much entirely fashion oriented: Fashion Plates, Barbie Fashion Plates, etc.

Thirty-two years later I decided to make my own version of those types of toys, but this time as there is a community of makers, together we can overcome the problem with the originals: lack of variation in plates!

Now we can design as many plates as we want: sleepy robot eyes, rabbit mouth, pig nose, googly eyes, parts made from kids' drawings, ornamental parts, ABCs, and so on!

Have fun!

Read more of my thought process and story here: myplasticfuture.com/cottage-frottage-or-making-creative-fun-at-ho

FOBO is an autonomous, statically balanced walking robot. Yes, this one actually walks under its own power! It is the fourth prototype from Project Biped (http://www.projectbiped.com).


A full overview (with source Blender files) can be found at the Project Biped FOBO website:

projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo

walking info:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/walking-cycle

more pictures of the actual robot:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/photos

FOBO avoiding obstacles:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/navigation

Controlling FOBO with a Kinect:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/kinect

Say hello to the 6 Packer, the awesomest way to transport your glass bottled beverage of choice. The 6 Packer is constructed of 3/16" thick laser cut ply wood and assembled with 4-40 1/2" screws and nuts. The bottle holes will accept anything from the run of the mill long neck bottles to IBCs to short chubby craft beer bottles.

The 6 Packer was designed with openscad and is completely parametric. You can change material thickness, bottle diameter, fastener size, hand grip size re-render and cut out using your favorite laser cutter!

What's that? You don't have a laser cutter? You can purchase a 6 packer directly from me over at Etsy. timogiles.etsy.com Enjoy!

When I was printing and launching the model rocket, the thought struck me: why does every printable model rocket have the same tube-with-fins-and-a-nose-cone design? We've got 3d printers, goldangit! We can do any design we want!

Thus was born the concept of the launchable cartoon rocket. This is the love-child of my Cartoon Rocket model ( thingiverse.com/thing:15618 ) and the printable model rocket ( thingiverse.com/thing:13616 ).

I used the Cartoon Rocket as a basic design concept, and added the functional components to make it launchable: an engine mount, a nose cone which pops off easily, space for a parachute, a tube for the launch rod, and extra fins for stability.

A word of warning!

As of this writing, this rocket has not been launched. I have satisfied myself that it will launch safely and stably as long as you add enough ballast to the nose cone, but I don't know what will actually happen the first time it launches. Be sure to test the stability before you launch and follow all model rocket precautions. Launch at your own risk!

While looking for new interesting things to print using water soluble PVA support, I decided I want to try to make a Hilbert Cube: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hilbert_cube

After trying and failing to do it in openscad, I worked around it's limitations by writing a ruby script that generates openscad code. This ruby script can create a 1-3 iterations of a hilbert curve in 3d. I borrowed code from a Processing script by Thomas Diewald at openprocessing.org/visuals/?visualID=15599

Unfortunately after doing this, I realized it wasn't really a hilbert cube as the shape is not one continuous curve. :( Still it looks cool and is pretty much impossible to print without dissolvable support. It would be awesome if someone smarter than me would make a proper parametric hilbert cube generator, plz!

I also found a really nice and proper curved hilbert cube by Carlo H. Séquin at cs.berkeley.edu/~sequin/X/Hilbert_Cube/ I resized it and made a support model for it. I don't know what the license is on it, hopefully he won't mind me reposting it here. The problem with this model is that it is curved in a way that makes it a more difficult print.

See also this hilbert cube print from shapeways: youtube.com/watch?v=9cdWpQ2D-O8

Helicopters are complex machines. They require high quality parts that are strong, lightweight, and accurate. Those are terms typically not associated with parts made on home 3D printers.

But could they be?

We all know home machines are getting better, but could you actually print a working helicopter on a home 3D printer? The obvious place to start is the blades. They must be thin, light, smooth, and strong. If you can't print blades, you can't make a helicopter. So can you?

Well, spoiler alert: you can. But do they actually work? Or do they fly apart when they spin up, or generate too much turbulence to actually fly?
See for yourself:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXlUSWrVzys

Printed on my Ultimaker 3D printer, using Netfabb "Ultra" (0.08mm) profile, 100% infill, 100% speed, no raft. Takes about 26 minutes per blade.

The helicopter is the "JXD 340", or sometimes the "Drift King" because unlike most cheap helis, it can fly sideways. Its a pretty awesome toy for $30, and much better than most cheap helis I have seen. Personally, I recommend it. Have a link:
amazon.com/Indoor-Infrared-Control-Helicopter-Gyroscope/dp/B004OGBNJ8/
And no thats not an affiliate link, I just think those toys are sweet.

SAFETY NOTE: I recommend PLA because it sticks well and works well with small layer heights. HOWEVER, PLA is brittle, and when these blades break, they tend to shear off and send a sharp piece flying. The pieces are light and it may not be an issue, but you have been warned. If you're about to crash, cut throttle power so the blades stop spinning and the amount of energy put into them is reduced. They've survived plenty of nicks on things, but if you crash under power they will break. Ultimately though, I am not responsible. Print at your own risk.

A while back, a friend of mine asked if I could make her a version of a Fox 40 whistle.

Originally, I tried to make one in Google Sketchup but the result was unprintable. Then I made a close replica in OpenSCAD, but that didn't print well and didn't make any sounds.

So, I decided to go after a design that accomplished the same thing (2-tones & pealess) but had a more printable form. It took me 8 iterations, but I finally got it :)

This template makes it easy to create George Hart's 72 pencil sculpture. georgehart.com/sculpture/pencils.html

While playing with my Moon Rover tread, I found it zipped into itself pretty well. This is an adjusted version that can zip into both sides. It's flexible in several dimensions and easily layered. It's quite fun, and I'm curious what uses or interesting shapes you all can come up with for it.

The Penrose tiles by pleppik got me thinking and I decided they would be cooler if they held together on their own. The snap shapes enforce the matching rules (as long as all the pieces are right-side up), which means any pattern you make out of them will be aperiodic.

This is a lamp made ​​from the same form that repeats. I used the color black to white top and the bottom, so you get a better projection of light.
Se trata de una lámpara realizada a partir de una misma forma que se repite. He utilizado el color negro para la parte superior y blanco para la parte inferior, de esta manera se consigue una mejor proyección de la luz.

Nay lamp is a product designed by me and created in the LABoral FabLab Gijon, Spain. It consists of 35 pieces that are assembled on both upper and lower circles making the lamp has an oval shape. It consists of two colors, white and black, to light and shade effects on space. It may be a ceiling lamp or table. I hope you like it.

I like the living hinge idea very much, but think it's just as useful in a static context where the wood stays in one place. I like the idea of being able to make curved wooden objects by pinning the hinge in a particular position.

Storage system for storing various things. Developed from the simpler parametric compartment box by adding two new cool features: (optional) rounding of all compartment corners to prevent the pesky nuts and bolts from hiding in the corners to avoid being used, and handles plus some new OpenSCAD modules for creating a cabinet of drawers.

Tried a laser-cut version of the fantastic Gear O'Clock.
I added a display for the minutes for the design.

It's more or less complete, I just did not get it to work yet. The clock work I tried was not able to drive the clock. Need to try a different one.

quick and dirty lasercut, just a test!

My wife wanted me to buy more Ikea hooks for the kitchen... As I am too lazy I decided to design the hook in openscad and print some of them!

As a bonus, I designed a parameterized Ikea hook so that the diameter, length, width and height can be easily changed