Just modified the bottom gear of the screwless heart gears to fit my old kysan DC extruder motor (which turns very slowly on 5V USB XD)

youtube.com/watch?v=YefD_BvxgzY

This is a parametric Reprap printer based loosely on the Printrbot design. It is designed for NEMA14 motors, 6mm rods, and LM6UU bearings, though the hardware can be changed by modifying the parameters in the scad file.

The printrbot variant is now on github: github.com/whosawhatsis/RepRap-Wallace

There is a video of an axis test using Marlin on youtube: youtube.com/watch?v=0QrEmGlZT0w&context=C3f40eeaADOEgsToPDskJ7qwV6fvNjtb93W cpz_SHy

More documentation, pics, and video on the Reprap Wiki page: reprap.org/wiki/Wallace

This thing will create a range of metric and imperial tooth profile pulleys, with any number of teeth, specified in the Openscad file.
Tooth profiles currently supported are MXL, 40DP, XL, H, T2.5, T5, T10, AT5, HTD (3mm, 5mm, 8mm) and GT2 (2mm, 3mm 5mm).
There are a range of editable parameters for editing the fit of the tooth (to account for printer variation), the pulley base, captive nut(s) slot for the set screw, motor shaft diameter, pulley height and belt retainers.
The attached stls are reference pulleys, mostly around the size used on repraps.

Details
After creating the parametric pulley thingiverse.com/thing:11256 I realised this way of modelling them was only going to work for square-toothed pulleys, and a way of producing pulleys for belts with better characteristics for linear motion was required. I found dxf drawings of the relevant tooth profiles here oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPOW_Entry.asp?company=915217&elementID=07807803/METRIC/URETH/WV0025/F and modelled pulley diameter from data here sdp-si.com/D265/HTML/D265T016.html
There were a couple of possible approaches to importing the data, I chose to simplify the bezier curve dxf data in Inkscape, producing vertices with a resolution of around 0.05-0.1mm for each tooth. Another advantage is the the pulleys have the tooth ramp for smooth entry and exit of the belt tooth into the pulley. I'm not really sure 3D printers can take full advantage of this yet, but quality is improving all the time!
If other tooth profiles are required, or you model any, please pass them on to me and I will include them.
Not printed yet... I'm away for the weekend! I'll upload some photos when I do, on Monday.

posted for Sound for Slic3r bug check with:
gist.github.com/1653024

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

this is a proof of concept in the use of driving more than 2 filaments (3 here) using 2 motors. one motor drives the filament while the other drives a cam that pushes the filament into the drive shaft.
i am currently preparing to test this, but wanted to get it out there. current issues are that is does not have good access to the drive mechanism for cleaning or feeding filament and that much of it was designed to be machined instead of printed. the side plates are to big for a cupcake, but i ws able to print a few of the pieces on one. it may also not be compatible with other motors until there is a redesign, as the motors are integral to its strength.
if anyone has improvements, let me know.
EDIT: added an IGES assembly file(let me know when you find its broken, and how to fix it) and SW2005 part and assembly files. also added an exploded image
EDIT: lookes like this has been worked on a bit already by wildseyed thingiverse.com/thing:10783 . not sure if i should list it as derivative.
Finally got more than 1 hot end functional at a time, so to check out the filament drive in action see youtu.be/CVaYHlLkvWM
and youtu.be/yqAGEqaoPg4


it works! all 3 filaments running:
youtu.be/po8KyagUsY4
youtu.be/-X-azhcsqdM

Helicopters are complex machines. They require high quality parts that are strong, lightweight, and accurate. Those are terms typically not associated with parts made on home 3D printers.

But could they be?

We all know home machines are getting better, but could you actually print a working helicopter on a home 3D printer? The obvious place to start is the blades. They must be thin, light, smooth, and strong. If you can't print blades, you can't make a helicopter. So can you?

Well, spoiler alert: you can. But do they actually work? Or do they fly apart when they spin up, or generate too much turbulence to actually fly?
See for yourself:
youtube.com/watch?v=qXlUSWrVzys

Printed on my Ultimaker 3D printer, using Netfabb "Ultra" (0.08mm) profile, 100% infill, 100% speed, no raft. Takes about 26 minutes per blade.

The helicopter is the "JXD 340", or sometimes the "Drift King" because unlike most cheap helis, it can fly sideways. Its a pretty awesome toy for $30, and much better than most cheap helis I have seen. Personally, I recommend it. Have a link:
amazon.com/Indoor-Infrared-Control-Helicopter-Gyroscope/dp/B004OGBNJ8/
And no thats not an affiliate link, I just think those toys are sweet.

SAFETY NOTE: I recommend PLA because it sticks well and works well with small layer heights. HOWEVER, PLA is brittle, and when these blades break, they tend to shear off and send a sharp piece flying. The pieces are light and it may not be an issue, but you have been warned. If you're about to crash, cut throttle power so the blades stop spinning and the amount of energy put into them is reduced. They've survived plenty of nicks on things, but if you crash under power they will break. Ultimately though, I am not responsible. Print at your own risk.

This MendelMax inspired printer is compact, lightweight, and totally self contained. Nothing protrudes beyond the frame. Z axis motors are mounted low, and thrust bearings carry the weight. Note that the z axis uses the aluminum extrusion for a guide, saving space and expense. The linear bearings and belt and pulley upgrades give high quality prints. All dimensions are chosen so that you can use 4 smooth rods and 2 threaded rods, plus all other parts from you mendel.
All parts are easy to print without support. The 60 W onboard power supply runs the motors and extruder heater. The heated bed used a 120 vac and a solid state relay. The extruder is very accessible. The heatsinks on the extruder are optional, but help keep thing cool when printing ABS.

The extruder is at thingiverse.com/thing:16143

See BOM and exploded veiw of X axis below

I added a pdf of an exploded frame drawing 1/19/12

Wire clips and T-slot cover for Misumi extrusions are at thingiverse.com/thing:16344

Below is a zipped archive of all the Inventor source files.

New pdf exploded printer drawing below. 1/27/12

Check out the animated assembly at the bottom of the downloads. A few things are out of sequence and it's low res, but may be useful.

I was using a bearing hub and a piece of threaded rod to hold a spool, but as my collection of PLA grew, it was too much weight for the threaded rod and starting to use up all my 608 bearings.

The PLA Spools from Ultimachine are 1.5" in diameter. My local Home Depot sells 10' long sticks of conduit for $12 and they cut it for free. (I went with 3', 3', 4'). The conduit fits nicely in the spools and they spin fine. There is a bit of friction which isn't a bad thing IMO, so the spools don't unwind too much accidentally.

I have some slat-wall brackets that seem to work well, keeping the spools at a distance from the wall without letting them fall off the wall.

*** NOTE: The measurements of the conduit at Home Depot is listed by inner diameter. 1.5" Conduit is too big - 1.25" Conduit fits well ***

Mashed up
thingiverse.com/thing:7218
and
thingiverse.com/thing:5213

After 2 years of having my Sells Mendel up on wood blocks, I finally took a minute to create some feet for it. I wanted to create something that could snap in place without any more hardware.

I considered replacing the vertices w/ the modern one piece designs, but that thought lasted about 3 seconds before I realized how much effort that really is.

i wanted something to put my printer in so i build it a flightcase
things i wanted:
- it had to look cool, so no square box
- it had to be able to print, both open and closed
- L shaped, so i could add a spool holder
- windows to see it print
- less than 1/2 sheet wood (flightcase wood is very expensive, and most vendors will sell you a 4ft by 4ft sheet)

all in all, flightcases aren't cheap, and mine came out at 180€ with everything
there are 2 good flightcase suppliers (adam hall and penn) about 98% of all flightcases i see at my job are from one or the other
on this one i used adam hall material, so i'll provide you a part list from them

I didn't find any Arduino MEGA 2560 (& RAMPS) mounting for the bars of a Prusa Mendel that I liked so....I made my own. I've been trying to get rid of all the wood on my Prusa Mendel (Makergear) and this was the last piece to replace. Hope someone finds the useful.

Features:

Simple design, but somewhat pretty
Has a side with holes (7mm apart) that can be used for accessories or to zip tie cables.
Can be installed anywhere, bar clamps are only on one side.
Somewhat parametric, you can change some stuff in the openSCAD.

Real leadscrews are a great upgrade for RepRap printers because threaded rods can be bent, come with burrs, and really aren't designed for the kind of motion that they're used for. This Thing is a pair of X-ends that hold leadscrew nuts. I've also redesigned the bearing column to simplify the design and properly support press-fit Igus bushings (which you can get at techpaladin.com), since they were really designed to fit into holes. If you find the holes too small to fit your bushings, you may need to ream or dremel them a bit.

The leadscrews and nuts that these X-ends are designed for can be ordered from Misumi.

Leadscrew nuts: Misumi part number MTSKR8.
Leadscrews: Misumi part number MTSR8-[length in millimeters]

Prusa mendels require two units of MTSR8-200.
MendelMax printers require two units of MTSR8-350 (360 if using the optional thrust bearing)

I've uploaded the .scad files that I modified to make these parts. They may have additional dependencies, but you should be able to grab those from Josef Prusa's github at github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/tree/master/source

If you use Igus bushings, you may be interested in my Igus bushing-compatible Y-carriage bushing holders:
thingiverse.com/thing:14593

…And X-carriage:
thingiverse.com/thing:14530


Update 01/02/12: Re-uploaded files with more correct hole diameters and shallower pressure pads in the X rod tunnels to make push-fit assembly less likely to crack the parts.

Created for QuadCopter build class at HackerSpace Charlotte


Controller - AeroQuad Mini
Receiver - Hobby King TR6A v2
Motor - hexTronik 20gram Brushless Outrunner 2300kv
ESC - Turnigy PLUSH 6A
Battery - Sky Lipo 1300mA 2 cell


Version 2 of Chopper_Vertex uploaded
Version 2 of Chopper_Hub uploaded

I know, the last thing we need is another RAMPS box... but I wanted to put up the updated Sliding Lid Project Box, and demonstrate the new screw hole option.

I also thought it would be good to show an actual use of the parametric box.

The original box did not print the actual holes for screws, just screw blocks you could drill into. That was because I felt that printed holes were hard to get accurate, and this could lead to plastic cracking stresses. Now holes are printed as a star shaped hole, a bit like some masonry mounts. These will accept a lot of different screws and not stress out. There are now two parameters to separately specify the screw hole, and the hole in the lid.

I have made and assembled the RAMPS 1.4 box, but haven't had it in operation, so I can't be sure there is enough ventilation.

This is a rename of the Prusa Mendel 2012. So many people suggested this, I caved.
This is a progress update, showing more assembly and some newer parts.
The Z axis motor mount has a modification for more clearance.
The X ends are derivative of Aleph Objects Clamp X-ends,
thingiverse.com/thing:13228

Dun dun dun DUN DA DUN dun da dun…

Now you can have your very own Imperial Star Destroyer! This is a very long and challenging print; it took me about six hours with 0.2 mm layer height, 30 mm/sec perimeters and 50 mm/sec infill. Try it in silver PLA for that authentic Imperial feel!

This prints as a set of two parts: A well shaped a bit like a volcano with a filling crater at the top, little tunnels to let ants into the crater, and a lid with a centring stem to keep the rain out. The aim was to have something stable I can put ant poison out in without worrying about what our stupid cats will do.

The shape I settled on is a broad, flat cone for stability and to lower aerodynamic drag - it's vaguely reminiscent of the tornado ground cameras. The central well is a 45 degree cone to discourage sloshing and to make it more likely that your RepRap will produce a watertight object!

Kneel before Zo... I mean, hey look what you can do with experimental dual extruders on a MakerBot - grayscale vector art. This is an attempt to show how by designing your model so that you vary the number of layers between two colors, you can do some simple color mixing.

This is a new reprap.xml file for ReplicatorG that allows you to use your reprap or other Sprinter-based firmware machine with ReplicatorG. This version supports extruder control from the control panel. If there is a machine that you would like to have a driver for I will update the .xml file with a driver to suit your needs.

Tested Electronics
1. RAMPS
2. Sanguinololu

Tested Firmwares
1. Sprinter
2. Marlin

This is the first iteration (third internal) of my attempt to make printable Velcro. It is pretty nice to hang things, probably this small piece will resist much more than a kilogram of weight (hanging weight) and it is very easy to remove.

3d printing revolution is just starting, I don't say this is a flawless piece but I really consider it is a very good example about a very sweet future about us modifying our brains from "search-buy-adapt" (frustration included) to "think-design-print" (self-pride included :D ).

Quick demo video: youtube.com/watch?v=BtLSMI3xVDY
Quick demo #2 (perpendicular): youtube.com/watch?v=eLehgIfjmpA

This was an object that did not exist in our 3d printing world, so I like to think this is an "upgrade" from real world to a better virtual&teleportable world ;)

Designed to be 100% printable.

This is marked as a work in progress because:
It has not been tested with ABS.
The Elastic based spring is untested.
When I printed the one pictured I found some small clearance issues. All of those issues have been fixed.

Video youtube.com/watch?v=qOLgTgvXPc8

The box measures 100mm x 100mm x 100mm

The Spring
youtube.com/watch?v=GhlY8ZkFTvE
The spring shown in the video is "Spring_1.stl" it is printed in PLA with infill turned OFF.

I have also included a few different versions that should work in ABS. They do not work in PLA because they end up breaking when printed thicker than one filament wide.

"Spring_2.stl" is thin walled as to be able to printed with infill turned ON.

"Spring_2.1.stl is similar to Spring_2.stl but skeinforge should do a better job slicing it.

"Spring_2.2.stl is my final attempt to get skeinforge to print this in one continuous thread as opposed to jumping around all over the place.

Vitamin Springs (alternate to printed spring)
If the printable spring seem like to much of a risk you can use one of the following.

Elastic band powered spring. Requires 4 elastic bands.
Included in plates marked "Elastic" as well as in the individual files

Or a metal 50mm (2") outside diameter spring with a length of 80mm (3.25")

File organization
100x100_ABS.zip Includes printing plates for a 100x100mm build surface with "Spring_2.2.stl" as the spring. (three plates)

100x100_Elastic.zip Includes printing plates for a 100x100mm build surface with "Elastic powered spring" as the spring. (three plates)

200x200_ABS_plate.stl Includes all the parts and "Spring_2.2.stl" as the spring on one plate.

200x200_Elastic_plate.stl Includes all the parts and "Elastic powered spring" as the spring on one plate.

200x200_PLA.zip Includes 1 plate containing all the parts except the spring. And "Spring_1.stl" which needs to be printed separately with Infill turned off.

Individual_parts.zip includes all the parts separately.

How it works
The crank handle is connected to a five to one gear reduction that moves a cam to release the lid and let "Jack" pop up after one to five turns of the handle.

Jack
I have not included a Jester for the box as most people will want to choose something personal to them.

Added a toroidal radial taper to the design, so that it would fit our little hand-held vacuum. Basically, it's taller in the middle than on the edges.

The scad is configured to print part of a hand-held vacuum, replacing an injection-molded part that blew apart under use. Also added variables to make the center hollow, which seems to improve suction, and of course sized it up for the vac in question, a Shark 18v Cordless.

Printed Parametric Chainmail

I've been wanting to try this for a while. This is a sheet of interlocking rings, printed in place. The rings are basically square, with cut off corners. Two sets of diagonals cross each other at different heights, with four posts at the corners. Well, it makes sense when you see the pictures!

This is the first thing I've designed in OpenSCAD, so the code is probably pretty sloppy. The major parameters that can be changed are the layer thickness and line width, along with ring size and number.

I searched for "chainmail" on Thingiverse and the only result was a post by Vik on the Interlocking Rings thing: "Next, chainmail. Right?" So I hope you like this, Vik!

Two of my favorite Items in 1 Print. Best of both worlds!

1)Twisted Bottle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12278)
2)Zaggo's Whistle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046)

A syringe extruder without any extra hardware. No extra motors, no extra anyhing from the hardware store! oh, yes, you need a washer or what i use now: a hose coupling and of course, you need syringes...
[sorry these are not the best pictures...]

facebook.com/europerminutedesign

stratasys Demo give away part. If you go to this website:
stratasys.com/Flex-Items/Home/Items/Sample-Part-Request.aspx
You can get your own free sample. With the sample, you could compare your print to the commercial machine.

-----------------Update---------------------------
***** Solidworks 2011 & Step Files Added ;-) *******

My umbrella broke darn...Ok lets fix it with a 3D print,

For years I emptied my pockets of change into a 5 gallon jug, and collected about 65 pounds worth of coins. I didn’t want to pay the 10% fee to the supermarket coin counters, but the mechanical sorter/counters I found on the web got terrible reviews on their functioning and durability. Sorting trays are available on the web, for about $10 plus shipping, as are counter/roller tubes, for about $18 plus shipping, but they were also frequently reviewed as unreliable.

The sorting tray set and counter/rollers here work quickly and reliably.