Loading

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01, published

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
86 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Design Tools

Sketchup

A part of these Groups

View All

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

334300Views 103199Downloads Found in 3D Printers

Summary

Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

Optional Components

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320
Cable Chain - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167746
Vslot Endcaps - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515
Tubing Clips - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213
Bowden retraction stabilizer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Extruder Manual Feed Knob (small) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:474394
Vslot Channel Cover - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

D-Bot and C-Bot Differences

1) The lead screws and Z motors were moved forward to better lift the print bed from its center of gravity rather than use a fully cantilevered print bed.
2) Increased printable Z height to 330mm (~13")
3) Use of 20mm rails for the bottom sections to save cost and reduce bulk.
4) Various adjustments of printable parts, either to add plastic where it seemed like more rigidity was needed or to subtract plastic where it was not needed.
5) Accessories such as a simplified spool holder a cable chain for bed wiring
6) Relocated endstop mounting to maximize Y travel and utilize default homing scheme.
7) Overall reduction in cost compared to the original bill of materials (2$ square nuts vs 40$ Tnuts, etc.)

More from 3D Printers

view more

File Name

Downloads

Size

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App
14 hours ago - Modified 14 hours ago

Can i use Solid wire from power supply to ramps? and to ssr. everything else stranded wire?

Mounting coming to the end ... but before I assemble the belts, the extruder moved really freely and without force, now with the belts properly stretched, I find that the extruder is really hard to move ... is it normal ??? Or I have to look for a problem ??

Avant que je monte les courroies, l'extrudeur bougeais vraiment librement et sans forcer, maintenant avec les courroies correctement tendues, je trouve que l'extrudeur est vraiment dur a bouger ... c'est normal ??? ou je dois chercher un probleme

The carriage will be considerably harder to move after the belts are installed because you are then moving both belts and motors at the same time with the added tension from the belts going around the motors and idlers. I don't have number or percentage of increased force because I didn't measure these. I just started with some short movement commands after assembly to check strain on the motors and freedom of movement overall.

Thank you for your message ... so ... I continue !

Thanks ysdhnm

The command "pip install -r requirements.txt" gives me "no such option:
--inplace"

I checked my /usr/share folder and there is no file Printrun or Pronterface

Still no joy in Mudville

Would I be correct in assuming that the measurements listed for the bed carriage holder/spacing are not for a 300x300 bed? Looks like I have to extend the arms a few mm. The other problem I am seeing is the the z motor holders won't extend further to accommodate the larger bed as there hitting up against the 2x2 that's holding the rail. Anyone else have this issue and did you just cut it to extend it?

At the end of the Build Document are the cuts for a 300x300 build. I used them and have not had any issues with it.

Thanks for the reply, I followed the 300x300 build cuts, I ended up having to use dremel to cut a small square out the 2x2 and a pc off the lower 3x3 to allow the zaxis motor holder to move far enough over to be in line and not bending the zrod. Ive tipple checked all my measurements so the bed is centered not sure why I needed to do that but it works and hasn't had any other trouble during the build.

perfect, super clean design, love it!

I'm having the same problem as you. They are both pushed out to the max

Has anyone setup Ponterface on Ubuntu 1604?

Just going around in circles - tried different suggestions from google searches

I had issues with Linux mint but not Infront of my computer. Here are some things you can try in the pronterface dir.
https://github.com/kliment/Printrun#running-from-source

sudo apt-get install python-serial python-wxgtk3.0 python-pyglet python-numpy cython python-libxml2 python-gobject python-dbus python-psutil python-cairosvg git

pip install -r requirements.txt
sudo pip install Cython
python setup.py build_ext --inplace
sudo apt-get install python-psutil

Anyone using S3D can you maybe share your settings that you have working well with a Bowden setup. I have it working but I am getting a ton of bumps and pimples on prints.

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago

Does anybody tried to build all with T-Slot extrusion? I dont mean changing wheels to rails. I am not sure but openbuild mini v-wheels is looking fine with T-Slot extrusion.

Could you explain the usefulness of the relay in this project?

5 days ago - Modified 4 days ago

I made a 300x300 version , I am using an mk2 heated bed 328x328 mm real dimensions.
Now I have problem fitting the 3 holes plate because the motor mount limit the space on the side.
I don't have problem modifying the motor mount but I would like to know if it is only me with this problem , is it possible that I made some problem during assembling?

http://i.imgur.com/AhIboEe.jpg

Yes I had the same problem,
I modified the motor mount (removed one of the rabbit ears) and replaced the bottom 3X3_Plate with 2X1_plate that attaches to the bottom for the 20X20 motor bar.
you need both on one side to get enough room.

That gave enough room

Thank you for your replay , I am planning to use a "one Z axis motor mount" solution so I will not have this problem anymore but thank you for your feedback now I know I that I didn't make mistakes assembling the printer

I plan on using the Keenovo 300 X 300mm 120V 750W Silicone Heater Pad and was wondering how to set it up. How can I control it with the raps 1.4 board? Also since this heat pad is being powered separately from the board can I get a smaller power supply since now the board is now only powering the hotend and motors now?

I was having some simular concerns with my bed too, it's a big bed so I wanted a sperate power supply. This is all new to me so I didn't fully understand how all the powering worked. But I read a lot of comments and did some research and really looked at the wiring diagram. I too thought that the board controlled the heat bed but that's not actually the case. The heat bed is powered strictly from the Power Supply Unit. Now what the board does is actually control the relay which acts as a switch. If the bed needs to be heated up the board flips the switch and let's power run to the bed by means of the relay. So really all you need to do is get a relay that can handle your new Power Supply Unit.

I hope this makes since, as I said I'm still learning and others please correct me if I am wrong in what I'm saying.

Helps a lot. I understand it now. Thanks a lot. You need a 120v relay though right?

Yes. But from what I can tell a lot of them can handle a wide range of voltage, it's the AC/DC conversion you need to get right. Just make sure it can handle your input and the correct output.

You sound like you don't know what you're doing which is dangerous. Use a DC bed.

I know how to wire and solder and everything, I am just confused how to use the ramps to control it with the heat bed not using the ramps board to power it.

If you arent really arent going to help dont comment.

Look at the wiring diagram. The dc bed isnt powered off the ramps either and it is still controlled by it.

Yes but I think 12 volts is still running through it and to the board and i cant do that with a 120 volts. I might be wrong there

I wasn't trying to be rude when I said before that it sounds like you don't know what you're doing. I'm genuinely concerned for your safety if you attempt 120V AC wiring and don't know what you're doing.

This is probably a stupid question but what is the solid state relay exactly doing?

It switches the heated bed. Being it a heavy load (a 200x300mm heater can pull quite some power...) a MOSFET or other relay may not be sufficient, hence the SSR.

Hello. And where to get the details for the project in the format solidvorks? Sorry for my english

Hey guys, I have some misumi profiles laying around, is it posible to use them for the parts that does not need to have wheels on them and only buy the v-slot for xyz?

Hello, does great value dimension stepper motors? The bill of materials specified 76 mm motor ( order it is problematic), but Ali has mainly 42 mm ... Thank you

Wow! what a sweet design! I've ordered my rail for a 300x300! Most comprehensive build guide I've ever seen on an open source project. KUDOS to you sir. It looks like some folks are having trouble cutting and tapping the rails, I'm willing to help cut/tap/cleanup rails pretty expensively here in Auburn, WA. if anybody is looking for help. Just send a message my way and we can work something out.

I would like to use a single Z axis motor, anyone use this solution?

Parts for Adding Third Z Screw to D-Bot
Feb 16, 2017 - Modified Feb 16, 2017

I am building mine to the 300x300 dimensions, i've purchased everything except for the heat bed, build plate and the hot end. I've already started assembly on it and as I'm looking for heated beds I am having difficulty finding any that fit the PSU, can anyone sugguest a heated bed or perhaps a better PSU?

Thank you very much.
Jordan

1200w hp server psu amazone 32.00$
makerfarm 12v 12x12 approx $70
still need something to support the bed
I looked into that
probably about 40 for aluminum sheet from mcmastercarr

i found an aluminum plate on Ebay thats perfect.
Do you have that PSU running the whole printer are just the heat bed?

I am still waiting on the psu. so I am currently using a 300w psu to trouble shoot stepper motors. My gantry is not moving correctly and my z steppers are getting very hot. I think my screws need to be realigned.

I will be running the everything for the printer from the 1200w 12v hp psu.

Can you provide a link to the aluminum plate? Have you recieved it and it has holes or is at least flat?

I lost a set of bearings so I haven't been able to complete the set up to even test anything out. I was thinking about just using the PSU I have and just get another one just like it to run the bed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112276927140

This is the plate that I am going to buy. I haven't bought it yet, been waiting on pay day, but that is Thursday so I should have it in next week. I will let you know how it all fits together when i get it though. Its made in the USA so I can only assume it will be good quality, that's why Im going with this one and not some china one.

Feb 18, 2017 - Modified 6 days ago
C7_Vette - in reply to thejordonian

I went through a few heat beds before finally settling on the KEENOVO Silicone Heater. It is AC powered and I used a SSR-25DA to control it. I added an addition fused switch (15amp) adjacent to the switch that powers the rest of the printer. No power supply needed with this setup and I simply grounded it to the printer frame. I used a heavy duty 14AWG 15amp power supply cable for this plug. In my opinion this is the best option with large beds. The silicone pad will need to be mounted under an aluminum plate. Mine heats up to 110°C in less than 3 minutes. I found that 12v DC beds this size just could not heat up enough, no matter how long I waited, even with a dedicated power supply.

I was looking at ssr's for this setup and I was wondering is 25amp relay enough?

With a good quality heater it is more than enough. The pad I used is 600w which after initial heat up only equates to 5amps (600W / 120v=5Amps). It never draws more than 10Amps even on start up. Its stays cool to the touch even after a 24hr print. Let me also mention the fact that the first silicone heater I tried was cheaper in price and seemed to be of good quality but something was wrong with it because I blew 2 fuses before concluding that it was bad and therefore too dangerous to even try another fuse. I checked the wiring again and again to just make sure it was done correctly, which I knew was already correct but when something happens like that I suppose you tend to second guess yourself. At this point I pealed the pad off my aluminum plate and returned the heater pad for a refund through Amazon. Then I decided to go with the Keenovo.
Also as Spauda has mentioned several times, AC power is not something to play around with when unsure about it. I'm not saying you don't know how to do it, just wanted to mention to anyone reading this.I also use a 15Amp surge protector as well as a 15Amp fused switch as redundant protection.

With it plugged directly to power how can you control the temperature on this?

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
C7_Vette - in reply to thejordonian

You use the SSR-25DA with input coming from the Ramps board as with the DC bed which controls the temperature. I don't have the heat bed pad connected to a power supply. The wiring diagram in the appendix shows the setup for the AC type bed connected to the same power supply that runs the printer but it does not need to be connected to a power supply. Instead of connecting the wiring to the power supply I connected to a 2nd fused switch so I could turn on the printer and the bed by separate switches. Then power is supplied to the heat bed pad by simply plugging in the power cord into the switch.
But to answer your question, it is stilled controlled by the SSR.

Gotcha, thanks for that detailed reply. Sorry Im still pretty new to all this and the whole SSR thing kinda confused me as to what purpose it served but I understand it now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-280W-2-size-Flexible-Silicone-Heating-pad-Heating-Element-For-3D-Printer-/301715327446?var=&hash=item463fa289d6:m:mPUvdf_P8jVECm1p-bDkHaw

I found this heat bed on Ebay, I looked at the one you reconmended but as of now it's not in the budget. I'll have to try and use that one as best as i can until i can afford the better KEENOVO

If you are not as skilled, you should stick to the stock design as much as possible. Wiring an AC bed is an advanced technique and it could be deadly if done wrong.

"I used a SSR-25DA to control it"

When you say grounded to printer frame do you mean earth(green) or neutral(white)?

Earth green

Feb 15, 2017 - Modified Feb 15, 2017

Could this be setup as a dual extrusion?
Edit: How does the bed leveling work?

Yes, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620590
You just use an Allen key or wrench on the bed screws to level

D-Bot - Two extruders
by Gerzzz

Hi, I have a tempered glass of 314x314 mm and I would like to know if I can put a plate of 330x330 mm of aluminum to warm the bed, it enters the structure of 300x300? regards

Hi,

is there a real difference between tslot and vslot ?

V-Slot Drawing
T-Slot Drawing

The V-Slot wheels wont align with the T-Slot and the 3D-Printed Parts.

I need to upgrade my steppers. But I can't decide which to choose:
1.8° ?V 1.8A 5.4kg/cm
0.9° 4.35V 1.5A 4.4kg/cm
Bot are double in kg/cm then mine. I'm running DRV8825's so I got enough juice to power them, but I'm concerned about the heat that comes with the big Steppers because the stepper holding parts are still PLA.
Any Advice?

Any chance you could export/attach STEP files?

would if i had any

I wired up the SSR and bed like in the document. Seemed to work the first time. I went to test the bed again and as soon as I turn the machine on the unit starts to heat up. Even though I didn't turn the bed on yet. What would cause this? Is the SSR bad ? Or my ramps?

did you bolt the ssr to a frame piece or heatsink

Yes I sure did bolt it to the frame. Noticed the light on the SSR also doesn't work any more strange.

double check your wiring on ssr pin 1 and 2. having the bed heat up when you power on the printer is a possible sign those wires are swapped

I did. I am using this heater https://folgertech.com/products/12v-280w-silicone-heated-bed-300x300mm-12x12
So there is no ground/postive not polarized I was told. but I do have 1 going to one bed wire 2 going to + on power supply. the second bed wire is on the power supply ground.

can you link to the ssr you bought

It looks legit based on this: http://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

but i dont know how they get them so cheap, that says knockoff to me.

did you get the 25 or the 40? 280w/12v is 23.33333333333 amps, thats a lot of juice. I use a 40a relay and only pass about 9amps peak through it to have plenty of margin. if i were you id get a ssr-100dd

Got a source for one?

FYI I USE SOLID STATE RELAYS A LOT (GLASS ANNEALERS FUSING KILNS ETC) 98% OF THE TIME THEY FAIL IN THE ON POSITION REGARDLESS OF THE SIGNAL TELLING THEM WHAT TO DO ..WE HAVE HAD EXCELLENT LUCK WITH THE FLOTEK BRAND OURS ALWAYS INCLUDE A HUG HEATSINK
.banggood.com/Wholesale-Aluminum-Alloy-Heat-Sink-For-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-Small-Type-Heat-Dissipation-p-48066.html?rmmds=search WITH THERMAL PASTE BETWEEN THEM AND BECAUSE OURS ARE IN AN ENCLOSURE I ADD A FAN.. WE ALWAYS USE RELAYS RATED AT TWICE OF WHAT WE ARE HOOKING TO

Thanks I will put in an order.

dont give up troubleshooting the other one, you still need to know root cause

Not sure what else could be causing it. I tried a new Ramps setup and everything and it still starts heating up. Even tried without the ramps wired in and it still heats up. I have to assume that the thing is fried or bad and is fully switched on at this point.

connect 12v from the power supply to hte ssr input terminals and see if hte light blinks

Hello,

I really like this project - thanks for sharing it with us.

Just two questions:

1) Is it possible to operate the Z-axis with only one stepper-motor in the middle and two fixed rods left and right? Because I don't want to get into balancing-problems like I have it right now with my Prusa i3, that uses the same technic (but for the X-axis, not for the heatbed).
2) For rigidity-reasons I would like to use as few printed parts as possible. Is it possible to replace the 14 printed corner-bracket with metal-ones (e.g. alloy) that I bought?

Best regards
Mischa

I AM SURE THIS HAS BEEN ASKED SOMEWHERE IN THE COMMENTS BUT JUST TO BE CLEAR WITH WHAT I ASSUME IS THE FRONT OF THE PRINTER WITH THE TWO STEPPER MOTORS IN COVER PHOTO OF THIS BUILD ??? AS VIEWED FROM THE FRONT THE STEPPER MOTOR ON THE LEFT IS HOOKED UP AS THE "Y" STEPPER ??? THE ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM THEM HAS THEM IN THE TOP OF THE IMAGE AS RIGHT AND LEFT BUT NO INDICATION OF A TOP VIEW AND THAT THE TOP OF THE DRAWING IS THE FRONT?? SO THEY WOULD BE REVERSED IF VIEWED FROM THE FRONT OF THE PRINTER??? MY BUILD IS PROGRESSING VERY NICELY WITH HELP FROM OTHER MAKERS ON THIS SITE..BUT THANK YOU SPAULDING FOR THIS TERRIFIC WORK....

Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017
1sPiRe - in reply to DAPFAU

The core XY "X" motor is the left one, and the "Y" motor is the right one. Indeed the front of the printer is the side of this 2 steppers. The left side is the Xmin side and the right side is the Xmax side ; front is Ymin, and back Ymax.

dear sir

I just build d bot core xy, I used the electronic and motors component from sunhokey prusa i3.
the main board i used is mks 2z v1.2.
i have test the printer with repertier and working properly.
but i have problem that the controller cannot display properly. only display 2 lines, so i cannot print with sd card.
i used dbot marlin software and can print with repertier in computer, but controller and sd card not working.
i tried flash firmware to marlin rc7 sunhokey, the controller work, but the printer can,t work.
i have googling to solve the problem , but not succes.
anyone can help me, how to configure the controller.

thank you

arif

problem solved, i use older sofware arduino v 1.0.5, it can compile without error for dbot marlin. now i can print with sd card.

I will admit I have not read all the Comments below, there are 000's

My question is: How BIG can we make this?... I am looking for a build area of 400mm 400mm 400mm

You can go as big as you want. The issue will be finding and powering a heated bed (if you plan on having one).

I really like how the side that rolls along the back is solidly attached to the frame. Im wondering if it's possible to do the sme thing in the front for a full solid grip on all 4 sides, and just place the Z lead screws in the middle, without playing with the center of gravity too much/at all? Drilling holes for wiring is not an issue, but would love for this to be as solid as physically possible (over-engineering at it's finest :p )

Take a look at the J-Bot (a D-Bot remix).

Thank you very much! This is totally what I was thinking!

I've got my D-Bot set up like you describe (Centered Z lead screws and front/back Z rails). I only added the front Z-rail because I have a VERY heavy aluminum (6mm thick ATP5) build plate and wanted to distribute the weight.

You really don't need it otherwise IMHO..

Does anyone have any good pics of how the Z and Y end stop wiring is ran? I know it is in the rear tucked under with a 2020 cover. But from that corner how is it routed to the ramps box?

You can run the wiring however you want, it doesnt have to be like in the pictures, I would recommend not doing it like the pictures because that requires extra hole drilling and wire routing

I wasn't aware you drilled holes to get it that way that explains a lot. Understood I will go another route.

Anyone know why I can't get the screw to hit the Y end stop? The gantry hits the rear idler before the screw head hits the end stop bar. Any Ideas on a fix?

Feb 6, 2017 - Modified Feb 6, 2017
1sPiRe - in reply to jskala

I did have the exact same issue which I fixed with wide washers on the screw that should have hit the endstop.

That was my next approach thought maybe I did something wrong. Think the y end stop holder needs to be a touch longer.

I guess it's due to slight differences between different endstops.

I just configured a 1.1.0-RC8 for my D-Bot.
I'm very happy with the new FW since its a lot smarter in homing and other neat stuff. I won't post my Configuration.h because my steppers and settings differ too much from Spaudas. But for everyone curious: It works :)

I had everything working for a few prints and then my Z axis motors started doing this

https://youtu.be/PVOoKUwZ_bs

This is when I home my z axis. x and y work great. This sound happens before the z endstop is reached. I can manually raise the bed to the endstop without any trouble. Has anyone else run into this issue?

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017

Got my D-Bot running... into some troubles :)
I can move all axes like a charm on manual control. Even Diagonal, everything perfect.
But when I try to print something the steppers randomly pull against each other or something:
http://imgur.com/a/KwpVh

This should be a 20x20mm Cube but the first layers get shifted and I have some bad layers.
I've already tried to push the drivers from .55 to .61 but the only thing that happend is that the cube gets shifted diagonaly... Any tips on how to narrow down the problem?

BTW: Im running a 24v PSU and a 24v 300x300 Heatbed. Everything else gets feed by a 24v to 12v 10A Converter. The Heatbed gets hot extremly fast. Less then a minute.

I would start by adjusting your acceleration, or slowing the print speed down. the artifacts you are seeing on the edges are from wobble due to the print head moving to quickly for it's weight....i think. Also, the shifting can be caused by improperly tuned drivers... what voltage are yours running at? if they are undervolted, the motors will have a hard time running, if they are running too high, the motors and the drivers will heat up under operation and eventually start studdering / shifting causing missed steps and making the shift. I would verify with a multimeter that all steppers are between .5 and .7 volts.

Let me know if this helps!

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 5, 2017
bhorn - in reply to DSchmidt54

Thanks for your reply!
First thing I tried was to tune the stepper. Tried everything between .5 and .65 volts. No success.
But I "debugged" the G-Code to see when it "jumps". And I found the particular Code:
G1 X163.449 Y159.595 F7800.000
G1 X163.202 Y142.430 F7800.000
In other Words: Fast Travels.
So I tuned them down to 7200 (120mm/s) and it did the trick. Much less jumps but I need to reduce it even further. I manually testet 7000 and it went quite well.

But my extruders still hopping and even change direction for a step or so. Tried everything from .55 to .65 volt. Just happens at "high speed extrude". Need to look at that, too.

Update:
Slowing down Travel to 7000 did the trick:

Anybody know of a good tablet mount for this printer or 2020 in general. Want to use it for Octopi with this and mount in lue of a LCD.

Feb 2, 2017 - Modified Feb 2, 2017
TheLost - in reply to jskala

I don't use a tablet but i do have an official Raspberry Pi 7" touch screen on mine ($60). You can take a look at my D-Bot build (click the 'Made' link) to see it. I posted the mount i made for that display a few months ago (under my designs)

Thanks, that is a thought. I was just trying to use things I already had around instead of buying something else.

Hello and thank you for all this work.
I also build this D-BOT.
I use arduino / ramps 1.4, should I put jumpers in X, Yet Z ????
If yes how many per axis?
Thank you for your reply.
And hello from France.

Fill out all slots with jumpers (3 jumpers for each stepstik), it will give you 1/16 microstepping. Also remember to put the stepstick in the right way.

Hi. Thanks for this work. I had T-SLOT extrusion, exists a remix for this?
Regards.

I believe the rails (E) (F) (A) (B) and maybe (C) (D) for 300x300mm extra bed support need to be V-Slot, the rails length can be found the PDF, but I believe the rest of the rails can be T-Slot, have a look at the parts modified for using T-Slot.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413424

I am planing on making a D-Bot with both V-Slot and T-Slot with a larger 300x300mm bed.

T-Slot C&D-Bot Customizations

Hi. Thanks for reply. I am remixing all part for full tslot

If all your rails will be T-Slot, what will you use in place of the Mini V Wheels?

I have seen other designs using linear rail, and linear bearings, like this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2071957

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:868893

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:990244

D-Bot rails
by MrBlom
T-Bot Core XY Printer without any cross belt. Next generation
by T-Bot
Dual CoreXY setup that uses LME12UU and 12mm shafts

How tight is the v-slot supposed to fit in the H-bar ends?

My H-bar ends does not sit flush when moved to outer positions. Is this a problem?

imgur.com/a/oZBzI (Picture showing the issue)

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
jez81 - in reply to trio36

I did notice one that side hit the end before the other on mine (I even printed a large plastic washer to make sure the bolt hanging off the bottom of the H bar hit the endstop). After I put the belts on, the uneven tension made the other side hit 1st.
Long story short, it should even out when you get the belts right.

Thank you. E3D is being very slow with delivery. I am waiting for stepper arrival.

Jan 30, 2017 - Modified Jan 30, 2017

Belts arrived today, all hooked up, moving and homing fine (after a little hair pulling - couldn't get y axis to home the right way..) movements look smooth and solid :)
Just waiting on the glass plate before I can do a test print. Still no luck on the heatbed heating properly. Direct connection to ramps is like the SSR. PSU is 30a, ramps has a 60mm fan and mosfets aren't even warm. Been eyeing up a new control board..

Had another question about the spacers. I've already decided to just purchase the shims from OpenBuilds, and was wondering which spacer is needed? OpenBuilds has two lengths; 1/8" and 1/4", which would work?

http://openbuildspartstore.com/nylon-spacer/

Jan 30, 2017 - Modified Jan 30, 2017
C7_Vette - in reply to anthonyburton

I used these spacers which are the exact size called for in the plans.

Aluminum Spacer 8mm OD x 5.1mm ID x 7mm Long
http://www.aluminumspacers.com/spacers-by-metric-hole/5mm-hole/mas8-5-7

I attempted printing the spacers myself but the older i3 just couldn't get it clean enough consistently over all of the spacers needed. I tried some from OpenBuilds first with the needed shims to get the total length as close to exactly 7mm as possible and it was close but not a perfect fit. After finding the ones from Aluminumspacers.com I ordered these and since I could get the exact size needed no shims were needed. These worked perfectly.

Awesome, I'll be ordering those. Thanks for the link!

I think they are 7mm, so 1/4inch

The spacers are easy to print. The remixed ones are easier to install - the originals are a bit tight on the thread.

Awesome, thank you for the quick reply. Side note, I was the one on Reddit that was printing Gold parts for the D-Bot. Thanks again!

can we see pics or link to gold??

I haven't actually assembled anything yet. I haven't even bought the aluminum. All the pics I have are the parts being printed.

Decided to go ahead with the pcb bed but I'm a little worried about the wiring as I'm not familiar with solid state relays. In the electrical diagram it shows the negative wire to pad 1 and the positive wire to pad 3+4. My bed says 12v on 1 and negative on 3+4. Do they need to be reversed for the SSR or is you bed just different?

I attempted the 12v DC powered bed approach which resulted in massive frustration for a bed this size. I found that if you plan to print with ABS (which is what I primarily use for more strength with parts that will have any stress on them) a 12v DC will not work sufficiently. Even with the SSR-40DD and a dedicated second power supply it took forever to reach 100ºC and could never reach 110ºC even after an hour. It also had massive issues maintaining anything over 75ºC stable. Everyone has their own desires based on what they plan on building, so if one is planning to use only low temp filaments like PLA then it may be fine.

But I would highly recommend using a AC powered silicone pad from Keenovo with an aluminum bed. It heats up to 110ºC in half the time it takes the Hot End to get to 230ºC. Literally waiting longer on the Hot End to heat up rather than the Heat Bed. The temperature has no fluctuation. It stays at set point perfectly. You would then use the SSR-25DA and follow the wiring shown in the appendix at the end of the build guide.This setup also doesn't present the issue of over heating of the SSR. My AC SSR never gets overheated, even after a 24 print. It will be more expensive for the silicone pad and aluminum bed over the standard PCB but is well worth the expenses and their warranty is very good if you would need to use it. Use a safe ground with AC power and you will be fine.

Funny you should post this. I wired up my heatbed today and tried it out. It took forever to heat up and only made it to 51 degrees...I use PLA and PETG so I don't need to get to 100, but only 51 max is pretty pathetic. I use a wanhao i3 that whilst it has a smaller bed, it can reach 100 degrees in a couple mins. That is 12v also.

I had issues with my bed hitting 40ish to 50ish in forever. Per Spauda, I hooked the bed directly to the powersupply (bypassing the relay) and it hit 100 and above in about 3 minutes. Relay was my problem. I changed out to mosfet

Heated beds are just big resistors with no polarity unless the bed in question has a built in led or something extra.

Thanks for the reply. It's a basic pcb only

Printed all my parts in Pla not at arround 50-70 infill on stuff that needed lots of screws, I will see how it goes

I modified the ramps for 70mm fan

Getting so close to finished, pretty excited now.. firmware and wiring all done and working properly, I pretty much just need my belts to arrive. (It's been 4 weeks since I ordered them now, I actually reordered some from in my country I'm that keen) Re ordered another heatbed too as I accidentally ordered a "pcb" heatbed instead of an aluminium one. The pcb bed is so warped it's ridiculous..
Thought I would have plenty of time for the gear to arrive but such great instructions made the build too quick and easy that the hardest part is waiting!

Pcb beds are almost always warped, thats why you clamp glass to it. Thats what i do

I put tape, then some glue and it works ok, sometimes a corner warp's but i think its ok. the warped part is really minor

I recently found this build and I am very impressed with it. So I started printing parts today. I have a e3d titan on want to use but in a bowden config not direct drive. Has anyone made up a mount for this printer to use the e3d titan?

I thought I saw one in the remixes, there are 101 remixes

You are right I did not see that the first time I looked.(Sorry) Thank you for the response. Can't wait to get this going. Great design.

Many people have asked this, as a NOOB I want to ask it too.

The excellent build guide says:

  • 20x40mm V-slot Railing pieces needed:
    (4) at 520mm - A, B, C, D
    (1) at 463mm - G
    (1) at 488mm - R
    (1) at 448mm - Q
    (2) at 333mm - E, F
    (2) at 313mm - O, P
  • 20x20mm V-slot Railing pieces needed:
    (3) at 463mm - L, M, N
    (1) at 503mm - K
    (2) at 313mm - H, J

My question is: default build dimension is 300x200x325. What changes do I have to make to the above listing in order for a 300x300x325?

I would like a more explicit answer than just "make the shorter length 100mm longer". I don't want to find out after ordering parts
that I got my maths wrong.

Thanks
Mohan

the dimensions you need are in the appendix at the end of the build guide

Hi
Can I use the c-bot calculator to calculate the beam lengths?

https://mysterious-inlet-87122.herokuapp.com/

So I just finished building this wonderful piece of equipment. Spauda01 did a fantastic job with the instructions. I have been have firmware issues but finally got everything moving in the correct directions. One problem that I had on my first print (20mm cube) is that it printed at about 10mm. Second problem is that it printed not centered on build plate. It printed 52mm left of center and 25 mm aft of center.Third problem happened when it moved to a different position to complete the top layers. Any insight into these problems would be greatly appreciated.

Did you put three jumpers under each stepper driver

Yes I have all 3 jumpers under all of the drivers. but it is still trying to print a 10mm cube instead of 20. I just had a failed attempt again. Im thinking my steps need tweaking. and I am still offet from center. Thanks for your response.

Comments deleted.
Jan 23, 2017 - Modified Jan 23, 2017
bhorn - in reply to Cantaris

Could be two things:
1) Your Belt/Pully-Combination is different.
2) You are using 0.9° per Step Motors instead of Spauda who's BOM lists 1.8° per Step.

I think 2) is more likely because you got an exact 1/2-Sized Object.
If your Belt/Pully-Combination is exaclty like Spaudas and your Motors do 0.9° per step than 1.8° you can just double your steps/mm inside the firmware.
Have a look here:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide

Example: I got a 20 Tooth Pully with an GT2 Belt. My Steppers do 0.9°/Step and my drivers are set to 1/16 Microsteps:
((360/0.9)16) / (220) = 160 steps/mm

So I would have to adjust ({X,Y,Z,E1})
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,400,138.4336}
to
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,800,276.8672} // doubled Z and E (1.8°/step to 0.9°/step)

bhorn Thank you for the reply. So I double checked the ebay venders listing and they are listed as 1.8 degree stepper motors so I went to the Minebea website and pulled the specs for the 17PM-K402-P4V and they are indeed 1.8. So another bit of info. I tried to print 20mm cube and it came out at 10mm. So I downloaded a 10mm calibration cube with an eyelet on it. I doubled the size of it in simplify3d and it looks like it tried to print at 20mm but it got to about the 3rd layer then shifted about a 1/4inch so I killed the print.

Jan 22, 2017 - Modified Jan 22, 2017

Has anyone compiled this with the latest version of Marlin (1.1.0-RC8)? For some reason only the Y motor out of the XY combo is working. Also the endstops are powered up but don't seem to be stopping movement, not sure if it's related.

I am also looking for the samething.

I've uploaded the Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 configuration that I am using as a remix, so far it's working great.

Thank you very much!!!

Motor issue seems more hardware or wiring related than firmware

Jan 21, 2017 - Modified Jan 21, 2017

HEAVY PROPS to you and to @CFENIAK for all the work that went into this.

Simply stunning. All the way around

I've built several large format cartesian printers and was interested in building a CoreXY machine that I could use to print smaller parts faster and one that would fit within a sensible sized enclosure. I was hesitant to commit to a whole CoreXY DIY machine off of thingiverse until I saw the c-bot and then your D-Bot.

I went through the BOM and updated a few links and prices to suit my tastes.(i.e. Black v-slot vs Silver) and ordered all parts. Surprisingly, I have accumulated enough extra steppers, ramps boards, megas, , thermistors, power supplies, hotends, etc, that this build per your spec will only cost $340 usd. :-) Mostly hardware and frame.

The BOM is very complete and comprehensive and 99% of the links still work. :-) - Thank you!

I read the build guide (dated Dec 2016) and it is extremely thorough. Did it really take a year to put that together? I wouldn't be surprised. You published the D-BOT on Thingiverse 9/2015 and the build guide is dated Dec 2016. All of your diagrams in the build guide and the separate wiring diagrams are top notch/first rate and blow the doors off of a professional kit I purchased (the printer works extremely well though). It was the thoroughness of the build guide and other documentation that convinced me the D-Bot was the way to go.

I'm going to start printing the parts asap and will post the complete build in a month or so when it is ready. My other two printers have 18x18x18" print volumes and they work great but the enclosures for them would be way to big to contain the moving bed and about 50% of the time I don't need a bed that size. So from an energy perspective, it will be a good savings too as I won't be cranking out approx 30A to keep the big bed heated when printing PETG or ABS. And adding an enclosure to the D-Bot seems very straightforward.

Thanks again for this awesome addition to the community!

Just fired my one up today. Really a nice printer. Thank you very much for sharing.

Hey spauda, can you point me the location in-code where I set the amount of teeth that my pulleys have? If I've counted right, I got 18 Teeth, not 16 Teeth like these in your BOM. Thanks!

you have to adjust your x and y-steps.

Just finished a d bot build and am working through the kinks. My main problem is that when I home the Y axis and it hits the endstop, the X axis bounces around horribly. I can home the x and z without problem. Has anyone encountered this before and what can I look at to fix it? I am running a ramps 1.4 with marlin firmware from thingiverse..

I just finished building mine and had the same problem that I have been fighting for a couple of days. What worked for me was to connect the Y endstop to the Ymax on the RAMPS 1.4 not the YMIN. I just printed out a 20mm cube (first print) and have to do some tweeking in the marlin fimware. My cube came out about 10mm. Hope this works for you.

That's how it is on the wiring diagram

Thank you so much. Worked like a charm. Now for some test prints

double check all of your endstop wiring, especially where it connects on the ramps board

Jan 19, 2017 - Modified Jan 19, 2017

I am planing on making this, but had a few questions.

(1) What V-slot extrusion can be replaced with 20x40 extrusion, I have some extra 20x40 extrusion from other projects and wanted to use it, it looks like the V-slot extrusion with the label (O), (P), (Q), and (G) and also maybe (C) and (D) if you don't go to the larger 300x300mm heat bead can be substituted with 20x40 extrusion, is this correct, and what about the GT2 belt traveling inside of the V-slot extrusion called (G) will the GT2 belt still work correctly when the V-slot is replaced with 20x40 extrusion?

(2) How quickly is the 200x300mm heat bed heating up at 12v, also I am thinking about going to a 24v 300x300mm heat bed and looking for a cheap but good heat bed or heat bed kit, any recommendations that are in the USA?

(3) I am thinking about using a E3D Titan extruder with a E3D V6 hot end in a direct drive configuration, or should I use a Bowden extruder with the E3D V6 hot end, and what about using the E3D volcano parts to upgrade the E3D V6, I am looking for speed not fine details, I just want a working part fast, would the E3D volcano setup work well with this printer, the kind of stuff I print is more like project boxes, brackets, knobs and general use parts.

(4) Is there a noticeable improvement when anti-backlash nuts with this 3D printer?

I had some more questions but I cant think of them right now, thanks.

(Edited to correct mistakes)

I found this :

T-Slot C&D-Bot Customizations https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413424

And it seems to allow for using T-Slot extrusion for extrusion that does not require wheels, that means I can use some of my 20x40 extrusion that I already have.

T-Slot C&D-Bot Customizations

Hello, I own an anet a8 and would like to build a printer from scratch. I saw your DIY printer and it had detailed instructions and actual links to the products, kudos to you for that. I was wondering before I order the components, what is the best and biggest heated bed for this set-up? In the instructions it mentions that you should consider an alternative if you plan to print in ABS. Also I would be interested to know if anyone tried to build an enclosure for the machine.

Hi, where are the instructions and the BOM ? Thank you !

Jan 17, 2017 - Modified Jan 17, 2017

Hi.
Thanks a lot for your work!
I want to build this printer, but i have this doubts:
1) Can i use this profile from Motedis vs v-slot?
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-I-Type-slot-5/Aluminium-Profile-20x20-I-Typ-slot-5::1076.html
2) Can i use the Ball Screw SFU1605 L400mm Ballscrew With SFU1605 Single Ballnut Tool for CNC vs 400mm T8 Lead Screw 8mm? For a better print?
http://www.banggood.com/400mm-Ball-Screw-SFU1605-Ballscrew-with-Nut-for-CNC-p-1018725.html
vs
http://www.banggood.com/T8-100200300400600mm-8mm-Lead-Screw-with-Anti-Backlash-Nut-p-1120209.html
Thanks a lot!

  1. No

  2. Probably unnecessary

that version of the Arduino IDE has been used to compile the firmware?
thanks

Jan 14, 2017 - Modified Jan 14, 2017

I'm having a strange problem.

When I print an object it prints rotated 90 degrees and mirrored.
If you look at the picture here: http://i.imgur.com/2SFZG2S.png
The image on the left is how it's supposed to print, and the image on the right is what I get.
The dot is the home position relative to the print for both.

Iv'e tried reversing the x and/or y cables, inverting the directions, and even messed with the print shape layo8ut in Repetier-host.
Nothing helps.

What in the world am I doing wrong?

Here's my Configuration.h: http://textuploader.com/ddvyl

EDIT: I made a larger than standard printer and changed a few things. Like optical endstops, a direct drive extruder, and I have the Z axis cables plugged in oriented the same way as the X and Y.

I also own a Prusa i3 so these instructions make sense, but with the CoreXY I'm not understanding. If I flip the connector for one motor then it thinks home is the wrong direction. Do I just flip one motor and then change #define X(or Y)_HOME_DIR -1 to 1?

I also own a Prusa i3 so these instructions make sense, but with the CoreXY I'm not understanding. If I flip the connector for one motor then it thinks home is the wrong direction. Do I just flip one motor and then change #define X(or Y)_HOME_DIR -1 to 1?

Please can someone help. when i start a print everything starts off fine. Axis all home fine and extruder and bed heat up fine too. As soon as the print actually starts its as if the x and y motors somehow pull against each other causing the motor to miss steps with a horrible clicking sound. This causes my printer to position the print to the back left of my bed right near the homing position. also i cannot print faster than 50% or else the motors do the same. I am so lost right now. all mechanics are sound and move smoothly. Please help

Tried tuning stepper drivers?

it was a damaged motor. thanx jez81

@spauda01 I think I've figured out most of my problems...unfortunately. I ordered Misumi extrusions, not realizing that they aren't the same as openbuilds? I'm really hoping there's some way to adapt this design to work with Misumi...any ideas?

I have begun to print this out and ordered my extrusion. Thank you for doing such a great job organizing this project. The files, bom, and instructions are all INCREDIBLY clear and concise. Big ups to you. Thanks a million!

Jan 13, 2017 - Modified Jan 13, 2017

please can someone help, im using repitier / slic3r, and my prints wont print in the center. instead they print in back left corner (home position). also my prints look terrible. it is as if my printer is binding causing all prints layers to be off.in other words slanted prints. i have setup everything as the build guide stated. i only changed step per unit as i am using 1.8 degree motors.and 3mm filament. this is driving me crazy and i dont know what to do. i have bed shape setup correctly in slic3r and RH. how can i fix this. i have tried centering object in RH but doesnt work. also with regard to the slanted prints. all pulleys are tightly mounted on to motors and belts are tensioned

I recently used some Thread Rolling screws. It basicly tapped aluminum bars for me
My project was building a chassis (am14u3)for Frc

It worked Really good. but it doesnt seam like something i would like to screw in and un screw it alot as it would ruin the threads. then you would need bigger size

And to cut the bars for the project(chassis) we used a sawzall, as long as you have the correct saw, messure good and outline where your cutting it should be fine. then dremel the rough spots

basicly what im saying is useing sawzall and auto tap screws would be a great idea

Anyone else print in PETG and have an X Carriage that's extremely difficult to move on the gantry? Was really hard to get on the rail at all, and think I may have nicked the wheels trying to do it, but now with it on, the carriage takes a lot of force to move.

I have mine all up and running except the heated bed. When i turn it on the SSR doesnt switch, it looks like the board isnt sending any voltage to it. Any idea where to look?

no led on the ssr turning on?
read the voltage at D8 + and - with a multimeter when you command the bed on
disconnect the ssr and hook up a 12v fan to D8 then tell the bed to turn on and see if the fan turns on

I figured it out. I didnt have the jumper from the 5A to 11A power on the board.

I need to re install marlin but when i click on the D-BOT Marlin link in the build guide i am taken to a page that says "end of the thingiverse"?
where can i find the file i need ? Thanks,

Its included with all the other thing files. It's called D-BOT_Marlin.zip. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065/#files

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Just finished building the z carriage, and the arms that hold the build plate aren't parallel, they're angled toward each other. Is this something I should be concerned about, or will the lead screws and build plate itself correct this?

I'm also thinking about mounting the aluminum plate I bought directly to the bed supports, without the springs, as I plan to use a proximity sensor for auto leveling. Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Loosen the bolts that hole the arms, line them up and retighten.

Don't bolt your bed right to the arms you would conduct heat right into the rails

Anyone have the measurements from pages 21 and 24 in the build guide for a 300x300 bed? The guide says the zmotors will need to be moved toward the center of gravity, but doesn't say roughly where that is.

Jan 10, 2017 - Modified Jan 10, 2017
spauda01 - in reply to csader

Thats because I've never made a 300x300 printer. If you haven't installed the bed yet, place the fully assembled Z platform on some kind of vertical ledge and balance it like a seesaw to manually find a spot pretty close to the center of mass.

Thanks @spauda01, I'll do that. Figured someone probably has so was more asking anyone, rather than you specifically. :)

Can you tell your measures? I have the same situation

Can you tell your measures? I have the same situation

So for end caps how many do we need

looks like 2 for bed
the 20x40 end cap slot
Please tell me fast, going to print and i want to print all endcaps in on go

Hi,

I've got a problem making the SSR work properly.

When the printer reach the targeted temperature and the SSR led begin to blink the printer crash and reboot.
I'm using a standard 12v 500w computer power supply.

any ideas ??

your using computer to power the printer. or atx psu to power bed
1 Did you check wirings
2 might be the watts(if the atx psu is powring the whole printer)

all i can say as I don't have a atx on my printer im going to use the one he used

i'm using the computer supply for both.
1 yep wiring has been checked.
2 But this power supply is a 500w. It is more than enough isn't it ?

I am thinking about a kind of security. Is it possible that the psu make a security reboot when asked for a lot of juice and then nothing and then lot of jiuce...

Thanks for your help Mikelthebeast :)

Hey there, can anyone tell me the precise measures of the Mini V-Wheels? Its hard to order them in Germany. I'd like to do my own ones but I dont know the exact measures.

Would be great if anyone of u can measure it for me

Thanks :)

Hi, you can find wheel details on the openbuild website see link below:
http://openbuildspartstore.com/xtreme-mini-v-wheel/

Best Regards

Jan 9, 2017 - Modified Jan 9, 2017

Hey there, can anyone tell me the precise measures of the Mini V-Wheels? Its hard to order them in Germany. I'd like to do my own ones but I dont know the exact measures.

Would be great if anyone of u can measure it for me

Thanks :)

------- EDIT---

I found the measurings on their Website :D thanks anyway

This is me trying to move my X axis left then right. You can see it sometimes moved up and down the Y axis. I've been assembling and disassembling this over and over. I was able to get it printing just diagonally but then i disassembled it
https://youtu.be/MjUxGiJl_hU

Take the belt off one of the motors and use it to tune each stepper driver. Adjust the tiny pot on the stepper driver until the motor turns well and it's the most quiet. I do this by putting a tiny screwdriver in the pot, then telling whatever axis the stepper is plugged into to move a long ways and spin the pot until the motor juuuust stops moving, then reverse direction on the pot until it's moving again. Then set the tool down and tell the motor to move a long ways again and grab the pully on the motor and give it some resistance. It should not be super easy to stop the motor from spinning, within reason.
Then move the cable down to the next axis and repeat. Once all the drivers are tuned hook everything back up like normal.

If you notice the motor changing directions as you tune it keep fiddling. You might be too close to the max of the pot, or are turning it too fast which seems to sometimes make the motor reverse.
Put the belt back, and do another test.
Make sure all your motors have the same color wire at the top on the RAMPS board. If, say, you have the X and Y cables opposite each other it will kinda work but act strange. So for example I have the blue lead UP on every cable on the RAMS headers.

Hope this helps!

Hi Amadon. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage on the potentiometers like the instructional youtube video linked in the d-bot build guide. I believe mine are about 0.55 and I haven't had time yet at home to mess with it but I will try to use your method. I don't have a ceramic screwdriver, mine broke but in the past, I mainly used a regular screwdriver but very carefully to not touch anything else. I'll be looking for another ceramic screwdriver.

Started building today and it's going great. Need to wait for more parts to arrive but just finished putting in the lead screws.
Only issue I had so far was I bought the low profile m5 screws from open builds and the head on them was too big to fit in the countersunk holes. Easy enough fix (heated up the head of an m6 screw and pushed it in) but you could probably open those up slightly as I'm sure other people will buy those screws.
Ps. -
-The T nuts from banggood are are bargain and work awesome.
-Used a hacksaw with a 32t blade to cut the vslot. Used a mitre box to keep my cuts straight. Clean, straight, barely any burrs at all, no need for an extravagant saw.

About to make this and was curious about one thing, the lead screws are not secured at the top, which may induce wobble from my previous experience. Do you think it wold make sense to add another part (another 20x20 v-slot or just some rails with printed lead screw holders with bearings) for smooth and straight operation even at high speeds?

You never, I repeat NEVER want to constrain the top of leadscrews. Reason is if there is any bend in the screw the wobble from it will be greatest at the center. If you keep the top free the bed and motor shaft stay pretty much stationary and the wobble is sent to the freely spinning top of the leadscrew.
If you capture the top of the leadscrew you actually make wobble worse.

This is 100% correct. Some may think the bed is totally stable in the horizontal direction, but that is not the case. There is a small amount of flex even with correct tension on the V-wheels and it absolutely can be deflected.
Unfortunately, a lot of commercial 3D printer designers out there don't even seem to appreciate the fact that no frame and Z-axis guide is perfectly rigid, and they are often plagued with intermittent Z-wobble issues. Not every machine has a noticeable problem because run-out in the leadscrews varies. So yes, the top of the leadscrews should always be left floating.
Flexible couplers are also a problem spot because they are difficult to get perfectly aligned. Even if perfectly aligned at the factory, some users tend to mess them up and can't figure out why their printer suddenly prints like crap.
I chose to eliminate them in my build and totally designed the Z axis leadscrew setup to run on bearings with a centrally located single stepper and endless belt. It works flawlessly.

The bed is stable horizontally because the bed is guided by the wheels on the Z legs, the lead screws only control vertical direction. Just look at the example prints made and there are no major quality issues

About to make this and was curious about one thing, the lead screws are not secured at the top, which may induce wobble from my previous experience. Do you think it wold make sense to add another part (another 20x20 v-slot or just some rails with printed lead screw holders with bearings) for smooth and straight operation even at high speeds?

use zip tie to hold t he tube to the holder

Comments deleted.

What concerns are there with the quality of the rail cuts? Do they just need to be level/structurally sound enough to insert the m5 bolts, or am I missing something? I ask because I've got a hacksaw that seems to do the job. Just want to know if I'm missing any considerations before I actually start cutting parts I'll need.

Straight square clean cuts make the whole thing go together easier, if you cuts are crooked or off you could probably compensate by leaving gaps at the ends of some rails which is just a hastle. In the end just make sure the whole frame is square

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Jan 5, 2017 - Modified Jan 5, 2017

So past the few weeks, I can't smoothly get the extruder to smoothly on the X/Y rails. I'm still trying to understand how Core XYs work with both motors moving at the same time but I am still having issues with the movement. If I hit Left on the X axis, sometimes it moves Left, sometimes it moves Down on the Y axis. Same with the opposite direction, if I hit Right on the X, it moves Right or Up on the Y axis. I think it's because my dimensions are off a bit in each corner because of my bad cutting of the extrusions. Anyone have these issues before? I am also checking the spacing on the H-bars since my dimensions were slightly off. Will be looking at the guide a bit more in-depth today.

edit: just saw your response to a previous comment - http://corexy.com/theory.html
edit: after reading that website, I'm assuming at certain positions, I am getting physical resistance on one of the motors/pulleys so that only 1 motor is doing most of the pulling so it'll jerk to whichever axis has less resistance if I am understanding correctly. Will put up a video when I get home.

Make sure all of your stepper drivers are well tuned. I had the same problem and that was the cause.

check your Print head for clearance on the gantry... I had this same issue and it was because the belt mounting screws were pushing the nuts through the back of the abs and pinching the gantry.

check your Print head for clearance on the gantry... I had this same issue and it was because the belt mounting screws were pushing the nuts through the back of the abs and pinching the gantry.

Although I did have that issue momentarily and it even left scratch marks on the aluminum, the spacers solved that issue. I had tested with and without the spacers. I figured, since my aluminum extrusions were not cut well since I sawed them kind of at an angle, they are off a few millimeters and taking off some spacers would give the wheel some space to move around. I have moved everything around so things are a bit more even which is progress since the extruder can move around, just not always in the direction I tell it to

Jan 4, 2017 - Modified Jan 4, 2017

IM COMMENT 2000

Openbuilds seems to be sold out of most v-slot rails...where are folks getting theirs?

got mine off ebay

Comments deleted.

would a pre tapped version of the v-slot rail work?

Rails are pre tapped on each side (it was ok for me). If you buy a particular size, then can tappe them for you ...

hi what are these parts best made from pla?
thanks

great work

Best Made from PETG or ABS (if you can avoid it from warping). PLA will eventually crack due to stress, but I hear raptor PLA is a lot more resilient.

Comments deleted.

hi what are these parts best made from pla?
thanks

great work

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?

Thanks

(Great build by the way)

The Sainsmart 2 in 1 should be the same as ramps-arduino. But I could be wrong.

You might need to set your motherboard type in the firmware

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?

Thanks

(Great build by the way)

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?

Thanks

(Great build by the way)

Anybody wire the heat bed directly into D8 on ramps and then connect to a computer PSU (versus using solid state relay, 12V power supply, line voltage power jack)? I have a few extra 750W+ PSUs and was hoping to do this setup.

The limitation is not hte power supply, its is the transistor on the ramps board, that is why a ssr is used. you can still use an atx psu

thanks for the response spauda. just to clarify, if an atx psu is used you recommend still using the SSR?

It takes decades to heat up the bed without the SSR. Just IMHO.

Amazing effort spauda01. Some of the best instructions I've ever seen, the build list, the pics, everything is in such great detail and so clear. Better than an expensive commercial kit. Can't wait for my parts to arrive!

First I want to say thank you for being so thourogh with your build instructions. I built my printer using your design only changing a few things mainly size (300x300). After getting everything put together I have found a bit of a problem. My print bed teeter tooters when the Z motors move the bed up and down (which makes it impossible to level). I have tried adjusting the Z motors forward and back to prevent this from happening, with not luck. I am beginning to think the 4 wheeled Z guides are the issue because they don't all sit snuggly on the V slot. Is there anything you can tell me that may help. Thank You

You may want to transition to a 3 leadscrew setup instead. Much more stable. If you look through the remixes you'll see the Jbot uses something to that effect.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

I must be not understanding something with how the X and Y axis work. So do the two motors in the front work together to move the axis? Because when one moves so does the other. They basically counteract each other, or work together. I don't know. I guess I'm not understanding the belt routing and how the X and Y motors work.
Anybody have some insight to make this click in my head?
Thanks!

Dec 30, 2016 - Modified Dec 30, 2016
Amadon - in reply to spauda01

Ahh! Thanks! So in Marlin there must be an option to enable this I take it? I used the included firmware with a few tweaks. Like I used optical endstops instead. And made it bigger.

I must be not understanding something with how the X and Y axis work. So do the two motors in the front work together to move the axis? Because when one moves so does the other. They basically counteract each other, or work together. I don't know. I guess I'm not understanding the belt routing and how the X and Y motors work.
Anybody have some insight to make this click in my head?
Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Would getting an integrated lead screw stepper motor be worthwhile? Or is there no significant difference between the integrated lead screw stepper motor and the conventional coupling method?

no advantage

what a beautiful printer, did you make it your self?

Would anything special need to be done in order to make the bed 300x300 as far and making sure its still solid? I have been looking at beds and it seems this would work out pretty well if its possible with limited mods.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V81ZI70

I don't think so. I am planning to make 400x400 with slicon 220v bed heater.

I see the black flexi conduit pipe is held in with printed holders

but i dont see those holders in the thing files list... are this an add on that came later?

i would for sure love to have it

Its on the front page along with the other "Optional Components": http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213

V-Slot Tubing Clip
Comments deleted.

Is there mod for motor to be mounted on top of extruder?

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

maby easy question, would ading weight to extruder affect how the belts more and stuff?

Yes, The more weight on the extruder, the more stress on the motion portion of the printer. If you have a heavier weight extruder moving at the same speed as a lighter extruder, it is going to take more force to stop the heavier extruder and change directions. This leads to shifting in the print since the belts are ever so slightly elastic.

What this means, is if you have a a direct drive extruder, you will have to run a much slower speed in order to avoid shifting in your prints in comparison to the original bowden style extruder/hot end setup.

The only close exception to this is the titan extruder with a slim pancake stepper..... pancake steppers weigh a lot less, making them a viable option for those who really want direct drive, without the direct drive speeds...... look at Ultimakers and Makerbots. Ultimaker is a bowden style CoreXY printer and prints much faster than a makerbot which is H gantry setup with direct drive.

Yes, The more weight on the extruder, the more stress on the motion portion of the printer. If you have a heavier weight extruder moving at the same speed as a lighter extruder, it is going to take more force to stop the heavier extruder and change directions. This leads to shifting in the print since the belts are ever so slightly elastic.

What this means, is if you have a a direct drive extruder, you will have to run a much slower speed in order to avoid shifting in your prints in comparison to the original bowden style extruder/hot end setup.

The only close exception to this is the titan extruder with a slim pancake stepper..... pancake steppers weigh a lot less, making them a viable option for those who really want direct drive, without the direct drive speeds...... look at Ultimakers and Makerbots. Ultimaker is a bowden style CoreXY printer and prints much faster than a makerbot which is H gantry setup with direct drive.

Switching the extruder to direct drive should only effect properties related to acceleration, so overall slower speeds. But you'd get the benefit of less hysteresis, so easier to tune retractions.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Hello are any of the parts in the attached STL files optional? I believe the ones listed here are required, but wanted to confirm. I am ordering from 3D Hubs and want to minimize the amount of pieces I absolutely need printed from there, I'll just print all the optional pieces once I get it up and running. Thanks.

You can buy these for .20 cents, I believe people had problems with 3d printed ones so this may help
http://openbuildspartstore.com/mini-v-wheel-precision-shim/

now you wont have to buy 3d printed bearing shim (20 of them)

Im confused, You say in BOM to buy Pla because it prints all parts depending on infill and shells.

But in your build guide it says to use abs because Pla cracks, Cant we just reinforce the Pla printed parts with Glue or something?

Something i have tried in Prints is to use clear nail strengthener, make the weak parts of my prints strong (alot stronger, usualy 2 coatings)

Somewhere in the comments spauda01 mentions that his was printed with PLA. He has had a few cracks but it hasn't affected anything. He, and others, recommend PETG for the best performance. Since my current printer can't print PETG (ptfe hotend)
:( I have been printing the parts in PLA with 100% infill. If I feel the parts aren't sufficient, I will reprint with PETG after my DBOT is up and running.

Can you tell me how much Kg or G you used to print in 100% infill, and how manny shells.

Want to get an idea of how manny Kg fillament i will need to buy

Im a bit over halfway through printing the parts (really taking my time and printing slow) and Im about 3/4 way through a spool. I had 1 major fail that probably took up 150-200 grams of filament (maybe more)... There is no way I'm going to be able to complete this project with 1 spool. Definitely can complete this with 1.5 kg of filament.

Started Printing today, For somethings like Fan duct, power switch holder, and power supply clamp, ect. Im doing lower infilland shells.

Only going to do 100% infill and more shells on motor mounts, the extruder parts ect.

Save me some fillament and less time to print

PTFE is good up till 260C. Almost all brands of PETG print below 260. I use eSun primarily and typically print at 230C.

Just FYI

Comments deleted.
Dec 15, 2016 - Modified Dec 15, 2016

Have somebody tried to use Solid V Wheels instead of Mini V Wheel (bigger ones)?
(I know that will have to redesign carriages, just can't get mini wheels in my location)
Will bigger wheels have any weak points?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1201242
Make sure there the right size

Modified V-slot wheels!
Dec 19, 2016 - Modified Dec 19, 2016
mikelthebeast - in reply to _MSA_

Dont think anyone has anything else to say other than 3d print your own

z motors do i do 0.55 for the 2 at the bottom, or do i double it for 2 motors???

build guide page 54

Did you use solid wire.
can i use solid wire for everything except the extruder and heated bed

no solid wire

For some reason when I home X the endstop does not actually stop motion and the print head tries to keep going. When I check it using M119 it shows as triggering. When pressed. Has anyone else had this issue?

double check wiring

Check! I had checked the wiring many times but apparently the 5th time was the charm. The endstops are all good to go. Now however the snowball keeps rolling, my hotend does not want to heat up. There are 12V going in. I have checked all the wiring over many times. Is there something besides the heating element I should check before I order a new heating element?

Thanks spauda01 to not only the time putting all of this together but to actively helping everyone one here troubleshoot. It is greatly appreciated!!

Comments deleted.

What heated bed would be recommended right now for printing ABS?

Do i connect the pins under motor control boards
Like in page 4 pins
http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf

if you are talking about JUMPERS (3) under each STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER, yes. In that guide, it says it's a must because anything less would not be precise enough. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Comments deleted.
Dec 12, 2016 - Modified Dec 12, 2016

Anyone interested in creating a Google Group for this printer? I feel like a lot of pit falls and issues are just getting buried away in the insane amounts of comments. With a group you could at least search for issues and relevant data.

The Wanaho Printer group is fantastic. Maybe we can create something similar. I haven't actually build this printer yet but I have already started accumulating parts for the build.
...just a thought.

SideNote: spauda01, you did a F-ing amazing job on this build guide and BOM!! Thanks so much.

This would be good idea, But the owner of the printer (spauda01) would have to be owner of the group or something, and add the link in his discription. something like dbot fourms would be good, hate searching for answers here

There is a Facebook group setup as well

Comments deleted.

Hello,

I read the Build Guide carefully multiple times.
One thing that I don't really get yet is the black bowden bowden outlet connector shown on page 53.
This part is neither listed on the BOM, nor in extruder section in the hardware quanitites (only parts for the springloaded flange).
Please clarify :)
Thanks!

comes with hot end

Mine came with the small black retaining ring only, not like that on the picture on page 53.
The black part I'm talking about is on the extruder outlet (something like a black nut + 2 black rings), not on the hotend side

you have to buy the hotend with bowden kit as stated in the bom

Makes sense, I bought the universal version as I didn't need tubing and so on. Thanks for clarifying

UPDATED BILL OF MATERIALS

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1n9NvKYXamrt_cy81nux3PlEAE_UcZVwcW7AYsrOJzRs/edit?usp=sharing

Please Comment If I did Something Wrong also it its correct

the 3d printer should be less than $500
Even cheaper if you find a better price somewhere else.

Comment On the Spredsheet if errors Please Did this fast.
Thanks

Also depends On shipping too, so find same stuff with free shipping to keep it cheap :P

In process in updating the bill of materials, ill figure out how to post it here soon

What gauge rating does the tap need to be

I saw one that says up to 10 gauge, not sure if ist enough

Comments deleted.

Okay I know that you purposely replaced the 20x40 extrusions with the 20x20 extrusions at the bottom. However, I only have 20x40 extrusions. Looking at the build I didn't see where this would affect the printed parts needed or did I miss something?

The motor mounts would be slightly affected and you'd have a few cm less printing space in Z.

Is it possible to use a BL-Touch on this printer?

How would I expand this printer to 300x300, would I just need to add 100mm to the shorter rails?

how would I expand this to 300

There's an addendum at the bottom of the build guide with the correct lengths for 300×300.

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016

Hey I have a question,

I've built my dbot and got my SSR finally. It sort of works, but my bed takes around 7 minutes to reach 60ºC.

I use a converted ATX PSU which should have enough power. There's a raspberry PI on the 5VSB lane so there's some connection there. The voltage does not drop, it stays constantly at around 11.6V. I measured the power output between the 12V lane and the heated bed and apparently it only gives around 1A, if at all.
I have a total circuit resistance from the SSR to the GND of around 1.9Ω.

Why does my power supply supply only around 1A to the heated bed? What am I doing wrong here?

Edit: just noticed, I have apparently a SSR-40DD 40A DC3-32V DC5-110V instead of DC5-60V. Can this be the culprit?

Edit2: tried connecting the bed directly to the RAMPS without the relay, still get only around 0.7A.

Edit3: tried connecting the bed directly to the 12V lane without anything, still output of only around 0.7A. So I guess it's the PSU fault? I just don't get why, though.

I used to use a converted computer power supply till the day it died on me. Then bought a decent 12v power supply and to my surprise my bed heating was noticeably much faster.

I used to use a converted computer power supply till the day it died on me. Then bought a decent 12v power supply and to my surprise my bed heating was noticeably much faster.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

maybe you did like me.... removed all the wires and only soldered in 2 wires for 12V ?

most new ATX have a single 3.3V sense wire. that one needs to be connected to 3.3V or it will not work right

you also need a 10 ohm load resistor on the 5V line - ie connect between black and a red
and a 4,7 ohm load resistor on the 3.3v line - ie connect between black and orange

both resistors should be rated at 15W with heatsinks. i have ziptied mine inside the psu to the mesh part so they have conduct some heat to the metal and some are taken by the airflow. i placted a strip of kapton tape between to keep them isolated electrical

https://cdn.instructables.com/F2M/DMYY/HA4MG4QW/F2MDMYYHA4MG4QW.MEDIUM.jpg?width=1200

what do you use to heat the bed? pcb? silicone heater?

what does a converted ATX psu means in your case? does it have load resistors added?

your SSR is ok it needs between 3 and 32 V on the input and can handle/switch voltages between 5 and 110 V. 40A maximum

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
darkarchon - in reply to boelle

It's just an ATX PSU with the necessary wires cut and changed so it works for a 3d printer. But I guess I just measured it wrong. I get 11.6V on the heatbed with a resistance of 1.6Ω so I guess I'll get around 7A of current on the heat bed. Measuring current somehow doesn't work properly for whatever reason.

It's a MK2a PCB heat bed btw.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

i have the same bed on a mendel90. you should get 7.5A

have you done as i just wrote with load resistors etc?

I tried adding some load on the 5V line by using multiple halogen bulbs, but it does not significantly increase the voltage on the 12V line. What kind of resistance do you have on your MK2a heat bed? With 1.6Ω I could theoretically only get around 7.5A when I have a 100% balanced 12V line. (P=V/R)

P=(V^2)/R

is the 3.3V Sense connected to anything?

Yes 3.3V sense is connected. The resistance of the heat bed is just too high from my basic understanding of electronics.

yeah.... should be far less

let me messure my bed

but you will still need the load resistors to make the psu work right. if they are not there there is the risk that is limits the current and voltage

I get about 3.7 ohms when connected diretly to the ramps board

That's a lot though. Can you measure the bed when it's not powered on and only between the contacts on the board?

that was with no power on.

and i did take that messurement at the bed terminals.

i cant disconnet it right now.

"N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn't and blew up my Ramps 1.2 MOSFET because of a too high current. My measured resistance was 0.8 Ohm."

taken from the page: http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed

let me think what your problem could be

hmm is the bed a dual power one? some are made to run from both 24V and 12V

anyways if you connect the bed directly your numbers should be ALMOST the same... they will differ a bit

and in this case of a MK2a the SSR is not really needed

When the board is on I get around 340Ω?!

Buy the proper power supply, its only $20

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
darkarchon - in reply to spauda01

Well I measured it wrong (measured in parallel not serial). I'm actually getting around 7.4A to the heatbed, which is pretty much exactly what I would expect given 11.6V and 1.6Ω resistance. So mostly a user error here. The bed is just shit with this high resistance.

anyways the PCB should be arround 0.8 ohms not connected

i wonder why yours is double that

if i will build this i figured to have 2 Q parts and have the Z spindles half way

how much would O and P have to be extended to make it just reach fit?

tried to look if that has been asked before but with 1887 comments one would go "nuts"

EDIT: i see that people advise against this. My worries for bigger beds (over 300300) is that the weight would zag/tilt down. Lets say i go very crazy and do a 500500mm would it still just be a matter of finding center of gravity?

also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

GT2 belt should be approximately (E×2)+G+R plus corners and all the stuff, so add another 20cm or so.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

Thanks, staring at a K8200 and wondering if i should raid it for parts and start to build in the spring

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 10, 2016

Hi,

Some one can help me plz? I received my motors. They are those one : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-5Pcs-3D-printer-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-Nema-17-motor-42BYGH/32310772437.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.INBUpt&detailNewVersion=&categoryId=100007155

rouge: A +
vert: Un-
jaune: B +
bleu: B-

I'm not sur about the order wiring compared to the diagram project. Can you help me plz?

Second question my cartridge cable (ed3v6) is too short. This is the same for you? This is a particular cable, can I put a classic extension without risks?

Thx =)

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 10, 2016
boelle - in reply to Jonathanmf

order should be

red 2B
blue 2A
green 1A
black 1B

http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4

cartridge cable.. is that the heater or thermistor cartridge?

Hi ! Thx for your help :)
All thoses cables. But i should not be the only one in thises case no ? They are to short if we want to root them in a proper way.

For steppers I only have :
RED A+, GREEN A-, YELLOW B+, BLUE B-

So i must follow this order ?
YELLOW, RED, GREEN, BLUE ?

The stepper will work on the right way ?

Thx again !

then you have the same colour as in the diagram

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/15/31/5e/8b/3c/D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf

just follow the order of that diagram and you should be ok.

if stepper wires are to short just cut them half way and insert a 0.52 square mm wire to make it long enough. in this way its does not matter what colour wire you use as it will be in the middle of the wire with org. wire at each end

Thanks ! OK for steppers ;) If you planned to come visit Paris, I owe you a coffee :)

For cables, is more about heater et thermistor. Heater cable is protected by a red skin (I don't have the right name sorry). If I make it longer with a classic cable, it'll be safe?
After that, promise, I'll stop with my questions ;)

Thx again

Read all notes in the bill of materials for which wire to use and also read everything in the electrical section of the build guide

hmm...

you can extend it with classic wire. 0.75 square mm should be ok

but if you can get rubber cable for kitchen stove that would be better.

what i do is going to local hardware store and get a cable with 3*1.5 square mm cable and throw away all the black outher insulation away and also i throw away the green/yellow wire and i keep the brown and blue one. in the case of the heater wires it does not matter what wire is what

it should not be this kind: http://www.bauhaus.dk/el-belysning/elinstallation/ledninger-kabler/installationskabel-3x1-5-mm2-50-meter-schneider-electric.html

that is for permanent installs inside walls etc and they have stiff single core wires

it should be more like this: http://www.bauhaus.dk/el-belysning/elinstallation/ledninger-kabler/kabelsaet-uden-jord-15-meter.html

ie a soft rubber like cable... i guess H07RN-F is what you should look for

Comments deleted.

Power supply 110v or 230v switch???????

Does it matter?????

also doesnt say in build guide Please Help
thanks whoever helps

What country are you in

US Oregon.
your Build diagram and Bill of materials Says 5A fuse
Build guide says 10A

What fuse should i use???

If you actually bothered to read the build guide you would have seen that the diagram in the build guide you are referring to is for an AC bed.

120v

5A

120*10=1200W
5A fuse is half that

only fit a fuse just big enough for what you need.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

"Read the build guide before ordering parts."

Where?

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Thanks. Seems obvious now.

@spauda01

also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

@spauda01

also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

Comments deleted.

Is screwing 3dParts to Frame Required??? OR is there another option that doesnt require that

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016

@spauda01

if i will build this i figured to have 2 Q parts and have the Z spindles half way

how much would O and P have to be extended to make it just reach fit?

tried to look if that has been asked before but with 1887 comments one would go "nuts"

EDIT: i see that people advise against this. My worries for bigger beds (over 300300) is that the weight would zag/tilt down. Lets say i go very crazy and do a 500500mm would it still just be a matter of finding center of gravity?

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016

I get a winding noise from the motors like an airplane is landing. Anyone know what that is? I had the potentiometer at .55 but increased it for X and Y because I was having issues with movement due to one of the pulleys rubbing against a bearing and the printed part but I was able to solve that issue but the sound still remains a bit then goes away after a bit. Btw, my Nema 17s were 6 wire, I think bipolar if that has any issues with it but I only used 4 of the wires and tested them before hand.

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to silq707

Is it only when the motors move?
How about a video?
I have no idea if your motors are right or not.

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016
silq707 - in reply to spauda01

It is only when they are not moving. When tested before putting on any belts, they did not have that sound but at the moment, it is not a big issue. I will make a video once I finish all the more important stuff like wire management since all my endstop wires, etc were a bit short. As far as changing your stepper motor drivers to TMC2100, did you have to do convert it to 24v? This video shows how a guy used a step up converter and few other things to do it. I am just curious because this will be my next project, to try to make the printer silent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdMxwpNk1KU#t=551.706898

Comments deleted.

Will there be any drilling into the aluminum frame? If so Just a drill bit Woud work or something special

also can dual extruder be supported in this build, ?

Comments deleted.
Dec 6, 2016 - Modified Dec 6, 2016

What are the external measurements of the finished build? Will it fit inside a server rack? Thanks!

Hi, I'm having some difficulty homing my printer. The motors travel in the correct direction and the end stops seem to be wired correctly, using M119 I can see the correct ones trigger.
The process at the moment when I home is - Z lowers, X homes to 0 (left hand side) and Z homes to 0.
Y homing does not happen.

Any ideas?

Are you using the marlin file from the downloads page

Dec 5, 2016 - Modified Dec 6, 2016
bananas07 - in reply to spauda01

No, RC-07. With the same edits from the one in the download page.

I have just tried the firmware from the downloads page - same deal. The only item that's different in this build is the main board. I'm using a MKS Gen 1.4

SOLVED - Didn't read the wiring diagram carefully enough. I was using Y-min instead of Y-max.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

all in the build guide

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

Comments deleted.

Hey all!
I am having an issue with my z motors. Here's a video of the problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLY4-qEaIF8.

First off they are really jittery, I have checked the voltage and they seem to be ok there. Also they only go down regardless of the direction I select, I have check all the wiring multiple times and it seems correct. I am at a loss.

Can you give a link to the motors you bought

On the dbot wiring diagram, the motor plugs are R G Y Blu. Yours need to be Blk G R Blu

Comments deleted.

I have them all in that order and that's when the z motors act strange.

Are your X and Y motors working right?

Did you put jumpers under each stepper driver?

Are all of your firmware settings the same as the default Dbot marlin file?

The X and Y motors work perfectly, I have jumpers under each driver and I am double checking the firmware now to make sure that is correct.

Swap your X and Z stepper drivers and see what it does.

WOW! I can't believe I did not try that. Thank you for your help. That driver is bad, after they are switched the Z motors work perfectly and the X motor has the issues.

Most ramps kits come with 5 stepper drivers, do you have a spare?

I do, that one appears to be a total dud because now my x motor is non responsive. I am going to switch the new driver over to y and make sure it is dead before I order new ones.

Why do you need new ones? dont you have a spare driver?

I do but when I replaced the jittery driver with my spare the motor that the spare driver is on is completely non responsive. I tested my spare on both the X and Y motor which become non responsive respectively which leads me to assume that driver is totally dead.

I still don't understand. Do you have one bad driver or are you killing them as you move them around? In that case something might be wrong with your ramps board or wiring

So the driver (Driver 1) I originally had on my Z motors was jittery. This was confirmed when I switched it with the driver on the X motor. After this switch the Z motors ran perfectly and the X motor now exhibited the jittery behavior that the Z motors had been.

I then replaced Driver 1 with my spare driver (Driver 2), (this is on the x motor, I didn't switch back to Z after the initial swap to test Driver 1) and upon making this switch the X motor does nothing. I switched Driver 2 to the Y motor to confirm and after this switch the X motor responds and the Y motor does not respond.

My conclusion is that Driver 1 has partially functionality but Driver 2 has zero functionality.

I understand. Are you observing any esd handling practices

Also your ramps board should of been totally powered off when changing drivers.

I am and I make sure it is powered off before I change anything.

Comments deleted.
Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016

Hi,

I'm having an issue with the SSR (dc) and the heatbed. I set the printer on 60°C but it only reach 43°C. I check with the multimeter on each terminals of the heatbed and it shows 6.50 V. Also my SSR is really really hot at the point that i could easily cook an egg on it !

Any suggestions ?

bypass wires on terminal 1 and 2 of the ssr to power the bed directly temporarily from the power supply to verify the psu can supply enough juice.

Did you bolt the ssr to the aluminum frame?

Ok done. i have reached 85°. I use a a computer 500w power supply.

Yes SSR is bolted to the aluminum 2020 vslot.

measure resistance between ssr terminals 1 and 2 when terminals 3 and 4 are being controlled by the ramps, then try again when terminals 3 and 4 are powered directly from the 12v psu (watch polarity)

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

Ok i think i know where you are digging.
Yes you are right, my heatbed cable have a too high resistance.
I put some bigger cable and it works perfectly. The heatbed heat much faster and the SSR is colder now.

Thanks for your help Spauda, and thanks for all your work and advice the printer :)

What size wire were you using?

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

2m awg17

Hi
amazing work !!!
But could u provide the .STEP files ???
Would like to make a complete assembly.

Don't have any

Oh thats a pitty!
Maybe some other CAD-formats?

???
would do me a big favour !

Are there any significant considerations that need to be made when expanding this to 300x300 besides what is listed in the appendix? Will the z axis motors still be sufficient in quantity and power?

Depends how heavy your bed is. If youre just using a 300x300 pcb heater with regular glass its fine. If you use a giant slab of aluminum for a bed it probably wont work

Would that just require more powerful stepper motors then? Or maybe 3x NEMA17s?

I don't know, I can only speak to what works on my printer

I am having a problem connecting to the printer. I do not believe I have a clone it is a Arduino Mega but I am getting the "Communication Timeout - reset send buffer block" error message in Repetier. :/ Please Help. Thank You

Try a different com port maybe

I got it to connect but whenever I use the manual controls the most distance I can go is in increments of 1 if I try 10 the motors squeal and it goes 1. I have tried changing belt tension and alignment and still cant seem to fix it. Any ideas?

sounds like maybe your speeds are set too high

Thank you for your responses they are very helpful. Everthing works now except when I start a print and the bed homes it drops about 1-2mm to low. The z axis homes perfect every other time just not when it starts a print. I can still start a print and move it manually up and it will print but this is and hassle. It almost seems like it trys to home to fast and skips a step. Is there settings that control the start print z home speed that are separate than the normal home button speed?

I am looking for info on a design program. Any help please.

Its fusion 360. Phenomenic CAD/CAM with free license for hobbist.

So I've got another Issue, havent been able to solve.... When I slice my prints in Repetier host, they are centered on the build platform.... but when i go to print them .... they print towards the origin corner (back left). I've checked and double checked the printer config to make sure it lines up with the one in the build kit, but can't for the life of me figure out why it's printing back there.

Anyone else have this issue, or have any insight??

Does your driver file have an origin setting?

I'm not sure? Where is that located?

They try to print on the origin or close to it?

Yeah, so if I center the print in Repetier on the build plate, when I actually go to print, they end up in the back left corner near 0, 200 instead of in the center of the build plate. Ive checked and double checked the printer shape settings to make sure they match the instructions, but unless I move the print to the upper right corner of the Repetier Build area, the print wont be centered.... Any ideas?

Yeah, so if I centere the print in Repetier on the buildplate, when I actually go to print, they end up in the back left corner near 0, 200 instead of in the center of the buildplate. Ive checked and double checked the printer shape settings to make sure they match the instructions, but unless I move the print to the upper right corner of the Repetier Build area, the print wont be centered.... Any ideas?

Hello! I plan to build a D-bot because I find it really great and a well docuented project. I read of a lot of different improvements over the original design and I'd like to know your opinion about them:

1) if you have a list of the first ones it could help so much
2) I see someone use linear rails instead of the wheels, do you think it will improve the quality so much?
3) I'd like to go direct drive instead of bowden, do you think it will reduce the max speed and quality of the print so much?
4) I see a lot of efforts to stabilize the Z axis (I see even 3 motors to lift the bed!!), do you think it's needed?
5) is it a plan to have a new revision of this design with some improvements (an E-bot maybe?) or it's a complete project without further development? Just to understand if I should wait for the new one :)

Thank you very much for any help!

Maybe D2! E bot's taken! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656792

David will chime in, but here my 2 cents:
1) The remixs are scattered about thingiverse and openbuilds. Just search D-bot and C-bot on thingiverse and browse.
2) The person that did that had not even tried it with the v-wheels first, people like to add their own flavour and I can't blame them as I do too. In this case, you might as well of just redesigned the printer with linear rail rather then mash it into the existing design. It has been shown to work great, but so has the D-Bot. Not needed IMO.
3) It will reduce max speed, but will not change your typical print speeds. Direct will be more prone to ringing at higher speeds, but print quality will be better with greater retraction authority.
4) As people get more experimental with bed size/ weight and Z height it will needed, but other parts will have to be redesigned as well.
5) David? Since it is Opensource it's constantly developing as long as people are still interested in the project. An updated release would be great though! It is just a lot of work in my experience.

E-Bot

I've been posting a little bit about the progress on building my D-bot on my blog for a school project: https://3dprintcreations.wordpress.com/
I created the frame out of order because I am an idiot that doesn't follow instructions sometimes and still a few parts have not came in from China. A few parts warped heavily or printed badly and I broke two extruders so I was at a stoppage for a week. This was an interesting project because before this, I never used a multimeter, soldering iron, digital calipers and anything electrical so I went against the preface of the guide a bit but I learn fairly quick. Also another mistake was getting eBay motors, I got refurbished stepper motors with 6 wires. I tested one and they work but sounds a bit weird for now.

Comments deleted.

Are you aware that some dickhead from Australia is actually selling printed parts for your design on ebay?
this is just 1 of his listings - eBay item number: 252468041820

Also, it is a service for people who don't have 3D printers. For me, 3 parts printed incorrectly and my 3D printer broke so I considered buying parts. It's not different from what 3Ders does but people should always cite the creator as courtesy and it maybe required for some of the licensing rules I think.

Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 states:

You are free to:
Share — copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format
Adapt — remix, transform, and build upon the material
for any purpose, even commercially.

If you're happy with that.................................................my understanding was commercially but not for profit.
Seriously though you are giving something away for free, and some lowlife who doesn't have the skills or intelligence to create what you have created is benefitting financially from your work.

Same thing here http://ooznest.co.uk/3D-Printer-CNC-Kits-Bundles/D-Bot

This is open source hardware, people are going to try to make money on it. Being open also means people can build it from scratch for cheaper. Thats capitalism I guess

Nov 21, 2016 - Modified Nov 21, 2016

I'm ALMOST finished with my D-Bot. Can someone please tell me which direction the Y axis should move when I hit the y+? Right now it's moving to the back of the printer (away from me). On my old printer (Prussia clone), it moved towards me so that it homed in the front left corner of the bed. On my D-bot, it's homing to the back left point (I am having to use the yMAX end point pins)

It should move back. Home position is back left

Comments deleted.

Spauda01,
Great printer - half of the plastic parts are printed in PETg @ 80% infill, most of my mechanical parts have arrived
The print bed you show is different from the BOM - I'm in Canada and have not found a print bed like the one shown
Can you display where you ordered this bed from ?
Looking forward to finishing this project

All the links I used are in the bom

Nov 18, 2016 - Modified Nov 18, 2016

Hey Spauda01,
Great work! I'm making for myself right now and came to issue.
X and Y axis are flipped. How can I unflipped both axis? Something to do with a marlin code? Or just check the wiring and cables?
It is possible to solve this if I switch endstops and settings for homing and max length of axis?

Double check where motor wires connect to the ramps board x and y terminals, pay attention to the colors of the pins on the electrical diagram

So I'm finally at a point where parts actually move on this thing, and I'm doing PID tuning. Got through the Hotend tuning no problem, but when I went to tune the heated bed, I got nothing. I had a spare SSR that I switched out, and now when I plug the printer in, the bed starts heating immediately, and does not stop. I turned the printer off around 80 degrees before it started getting out of hand. No light on the SSR, and PID tuning essentially failed because it was too high of a temp. I double-triple checked all wiring involving the heatbed, and the first time around I verified that it had a normal ambient temp that matched the hotend.

Any thought from anyone?

thats a symptom of relay pins 1 and 2 being reversed

Yep I found a YouTube video that said the same thing. However, after switching them back (which, btw, i only did them wrong, semi-intentionally on the 2nd SSR I tried) I still get no heat or light on the SSR, so I "turned on the bed" in Rep-Host and measured the voltage directly on the PHB pins on the RAMPS and they're putting out nothing, so at this point I highly doubt it's the SSR at all, and am ordering a new RAMPS.

apply 12v to ssr pins 3 and 4 directly (note polarity) from the 12v power supply while you have a multimeter across the hbp pins, you should see the led turn on and voltage apply to the bed

I am building with this printer mainly for speed print . I am planning to use a 32bit 24v capable electronics.
Can someone suggest some good nema motors?

Nov 16, 2016 - Modified Nov 16, 2016

I had printed all the regular parts minus the shims and spacers a while ago in PLA since I had no PETG. I figured, once the D-bot is built and calibrated, I would just print all the parts again but on the D-bot and in PETG since I just received some for the first time. What layer height did everyone use? I didn't think of how much of a pain in the ass trying to fit the bearings in their spots. Also, I don't have room to put a washer in between the two F623ZZ flanged bearings but the bearings still spin well. I can't foresee a problem but would this be an issue or is the washer just mainly serving a purpose so that the bearings aren't loose? Almost all parts came in and the last parts, the actual V-slot extrusions come in Friday so I am excited. One thing I would add to the BOM is a 5Amp fuse. The power switch with fuse didn't come with a fuse. I bought a 10amp fuse and then saw the wiring diagram called for a 5amp fuse but fortunately it was a mega pack of all different amperages.

I'm looking for some input.
Is there anyone using 1/32 stepping? or is there any point in going to 1/32 since with 16 tooth pulleys give 10 micron Resolution at 1/16 step?
trying to figure out what i should do,I do like the sound of 1/32 stepping over 1/16, but I'm concerned with performance issues with 1/32 step with pulleys being 16 tooth.

For anyone that has built one of these to the as-designed print height, how much extra lead screw is protruding upwards when the print bed is all the way up? I ask because I increased the vertical legs of my frame by 120 mm (I'm still in mid-build), and I'm wondering if 500 mm long lead screws will be sufficient, or if I need to get 600 mm screws?
Thanks!

Only about 25mm

If my height is 120mm taller, and my lead screws are only 100mm longer, that leaves me with 5mm stick-thru. Might be a little too close for comfort.
Thanks!

I'll measure it accurately later if I remember, that was just from looking at the pictures. I just remembered my version has slightly higher motors too.

Anyone have any tips on printing the bearing shims and wheel spacers? I figure it is best to print them in mass so that the hotend doesn't melt such a small object but then I get a lot of stringing even though I increased my retraction and lowered temp. If I just print one at a time, it's just a ball of ooze. I was printing shims 10 at a time and a small amount came out fine and the others just needed a ton of cutting and sanding. Not sure if this is supposed to be the process or if people are able to print out small objects just fine.

They should come out fine on a working printer, you can just buy shims here if they wont come out http://openbuildspartstore.com/mini-v-wheel-precision-shim/

Hi. I'm looking to build one of these using parts from my HICTOP printer since I have all the electronics already. It uses a 24V Power supply and doesn't use an actual RAMPs board. It appears to be a custom board combining the Mega and RAMPs (like a RAMBo). Do you think I could upload this firmware and have it work? It is a Mega 2560 chip on board after all.

Hello, I am looking to build 300x300 version running on 24v with an AC bed and have a few questions about how this differs from the original build guide.

  1. Is a 20A PSU sufficient for 24v setup with AC bed? What is the maximum draw for 24v setup?
  2. I have a 15A circuit for the printer to run on, do others have larger or dedicated circuits for the printer? What is the average draw during general use/operation? Seems like a lot of power consumption for something like longer print jobs.
  3. Anyone have a recommended AC 300x300 bed?
  4. In the original build guide, why is the recommended power socket rated at 10A when the PSU is rated up to 30A? What rating power socket is required for 24v setup with silicon bed?

Thanks in advance!

You're confusing power supply input current with output current.

D'oh! Right you are. Strike questions 2 and 4. Reading other comments here, it seems even 10A PSU may be sufficient for 24v operation with an AC bed? Thanks

OK, need some help here. I finished my D-Bot and am re-uploading Marlin.

After I click the check-mark, I get the following:

sketch\temperature.cpp:565:46: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive

ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_PERIOD > 0


What does this mean, do I need to worry about it, and how can I fix it?

What do these mean and how do I fix them?

Are you using the marlin file from the Dbot downloads page

Yes I am.

Nov 7, 2016 - Modified Nov 22, 2016

Have D-Bot up and running. Just have a few things to finalize for appearances. Having issues keeping the MK2a bed at +100° even using a dedicated 400w power supply. I can get it to 110° with a piece of cardboard laid on top during warmup but it drops quickly once the cardboard is removed even while being enclosed fully. Anyway, working on that although 100° may be high enough anyway. The XH-M135 relay does a much better job than the SSR-40DD. I have the power supply turned up to about 13v to give me close to 12v at the bed. I have nothing else running off of this power supply. The clicking doesn't bother me because the printer is setup in an extra bed room. I'll get a write up done once I have the project finished with the trials & tribulations I experienced.

This post is really about my first print attempt. The dimensions are good for both X & Y but the infill has a bad repeating pattern. I have a link to the image.
http://c7vette.imgur.com/all/?third_party=1
I killed the print after few layers once it was apparent it was no good.
It's making a basket weave looking infill. I have the infill set to 100% rectilinear. Adhesion to the bed was good and no weird noises from the motors as if something were binding. I do have the Y-belt (Right Front) slightly tighter than the X side to square up the H-bar but it's not over tight and is just slightly tighter than the X-belt. Also, like I mentioned the dimensions are good.

I haven't seen this affect on my Prusa i3, so anyone knows what's the likely cause........
Much appreciation to Spauda for all the work and help as well as the whole community.

UPDATE: It was an under extrusion issue due to needing higher temperature than expected for the E3D v6 extruder. I printed ABS with 230° on my i3 but I need +/- 250° with ABS on this setup. Filament was jamming up extruder very quickly with only 230°.

I'm no expert but I always refer to these guides when my prints dont come out right.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/

maybe #15 broken infill

What makes the clicking noise? From Amazon reviews, a lot of heating beds have bad reviews in general so possibly that can be an issue with the product itself, idk.
Imgur "C7Vette's images are not publicly available."

OK, got actual link to image finally, sorry again

http://imgur.com/D4k2Scg

The clicking is from the relay (XH-M135)
Hear you on the heat bed. Gonna have look into that further to see if I need a change.

This link should work, sorry. Haven't used Imgur before.
http://c7vette.imgur.com/all/

I read something about increasing the actual extruder size to possibly up to 0.45. I'm gonna try increasing it a little bit at the time.

Thanks

Nov 7, 2016 - Modified Nov 7, 2016

I'm struggling to find a supplier of V-Slot in Australia. Is V-Slot interchangeable with T-Slot for this printer?

No, it is only designed for Vslot

Nov 6, 2016 - Modified Nov 6, 2016

First set of parts ordered for mine. I will create a page later with my adventure. I have ZERO knowledge in 3D Printing, but am a programmer and bot builder, so this is going to be a good challenge. Have a friend in another state starting to print my initial parts. Wish me luck!

I've checked out all other 3D-Printers on this site and various Kits and already made units. I figured this one would be more future proof and a larger initial build area. Plus, looking at Youtube Videos of this and various others that have built it, I can't go wrong.

Plus there's a Fry's right down the road for a lot of the wiring, steppers, Arduino's etc.

Has anyone put TMC2100 drivers in to silence the stepper motors? Also, how do I need? 1 per axis and 1 for the extuder so total 4?

Nov 6, 2016 - Modified Nov 6, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to silq707

I tried them, i have a couple demo videos on my youtube channel. You don't really need them on z since it moves so infrequently, you could put on on the extruder but the real noise sources are the x and y motors so you might try two

Was originally looking to go 300x300mm but thinking 254x254mm might be more manageable. Has anyone done a 254mm build surface and if so, did you follow the 300mmx300mm cut list or stick with the original?

Nov 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 4, 2016

First of all thanks to Spauda01 for the awesome work.
I'm setting up my newly build D-Bot, but I just can't get extrusion right with my Smoothieboard. Does this picture suggest to anyone where the problem is? Extruder's steps/mm are perfectly tuned.

Also I can't get the Z carriage wheels to tighten against the vertical extrusions, there seems to be a little bump on each inner half of the Z Wheel Guides that prevents them to fully make contact on each other. Any tips? My bed wobbles noticeably...

Try the Cbot forum, several people there used smoothieboards

Thanks for the heads up. Anything on this nudge?

That lip should be on the end of the rail, not the side unless the cuts are crooked

Like this? Or am I missing the point? Thanks for being super-helpful :)

I think I see what you are getting at, I don't think the two plastic pieces are supposed to touch at that lip, I'll need to look at my setup tonight

I guess having used T-Nuts leftovers from another build instead of plain square nuts may have affected those pieces' geometry.

Awesome! Thanks.

Ok, so after a week of troubleshooting I'm coming up short.... My D-Bot is having Issues jogging the X axis.... After I flashed the Marlin Firmware in the Download included, the following has happened.

1.) The original flash of the firmware directly from the download worked, but when I tried to auto home in the full graphic controller, the printer would home in the completely wrong direction.
2.) I re-flashed with inverted X and Y axis.... fixed the homing issue.
3.) Went on to start messing with the printer in Repetier, Auto home doesn't work, X-axis will not move manually at all. Y axis buzzes instead of moves. Z is fine.
4.)Tried swapping XY motors on Ramps headers, Issue does not leave X axis.
5.)haven't swapped endstops due to the spliced wiring configuration of Y and Z endstops.
6.)tried swapping a4988 drivers... no change.
7.)Also, I noticed when I flash the original Marlin, The LCD screen says "D-Bot CoreXY ready" like it should, but when I flash the same config with inverted X Y directions, it says "SD removed" when I haven't modified any settings in regards to the SD card.
8.)I has gotten to the point where X travel makes the X motor skip so bad that the X belt is continually pulling slack into itself, When I tighten up the X axis belt, the skipping gets less dramatic, but no matter the tension of X, Y travel is smooth.

Any help is appreciated, my head hurts at this point.
Thanks!

Solution found. Nuts on the inside of the printer carriage were not flush, and when I tightened the belt clamps it was acting like a clamp on the gantry arm.

Now, however, ive got some sort of issue with printing from Usb.... i get a communication error mid print and the printer stays idle waiting for command... gonna try printing from SD because I haven't found much documentation on the issue.

What brand of arduino board do you have?

Currently using an osyoo 2560 off amazon...... I've also got another Inland branded board laying around

Would you happen to know what kind of serial chip it uses? I originally had a knockoff Arduino with a serial chip that liked to randomly drop out

Good Idea, I swapped it with the Inland Branded board, It still dropped once, but I got off two successful prints so far. Not sure if that is the exact issue, Haven't tried prints longer than an hour.... if it happens again, I'm going to try a different version of Repetier host and see if that helps, I'd rather not bump up to RC7 Marlin until it becomes a stable build.

Also probably going to implement auto bed leveling.

Thanks again for the great build Spauda! Ill upload my make shortly!

WHat operating system do you have?

When the issue first popped up i was on windows 7 pro x64, then in an attempt to fix any usb errors, I upgraded to windows 10 x64

The original version of marlin you downloaded had a parameter set which defines core XY movement. Are you sure that this has been defined in the new version of the firmware? It is critical that this is defined or it will not work correctly.

When I first made mine I found that there was also a bug in earlier versions of Marlin that would not allow the Y axis stop to work correctly as a max stop rather than a min stop.

This has been fixed in the newest release candidate of Marlin, would suggest you download that but then copy all the parameters from the version included with the thing files.

Ivan

I will probably do this, Do you think i run any risk installing u8glib and the full graphic smart controller for the printer? or just run blind without an LCD?

Nov 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 4, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to DSchmidt54

Your best option is to hook everything up the same as the build guide/diagrams with the Dbot marlin firmware. Once you confirm all of that hardware is good, then you can start adding extras

Found the issue, posted above, thanks for your help spauda!

The available download of Marlin does not have any setup for lcd screens

My apologies, I also installed U8glib and enabled Full graphic LCD support.

Nov 3, 2016 - Modified Nov 3, 2016

To Spauda01: there is a conflict in the documentation over the correct type of SSR to use.

  • The D-Bot Build Guide pdf says on page 75: "Use an AC SSR, not a DC SSR, they look very similar."
  • The D-Bot Bill of Materials pdf says "SSR DC DC Relay | Solid State AC relay will not work with a DC load | Don't confuse with the SS AC relay, they look similar, read the label"

Looking at the D-Bot electrical diagram (which does not specify either way), the circuit appears to be all DC apart from the AC mains input. So it's the Build Guide that needs correction. The Build Guide link to Amazon is for a 40A DC/DC SSR, which seems ok.

It may be worthwhile amending the Build Guide sometime.

P.S. In the SketchUp model, the SSR is a block named SSR-25-DA, which again is misleading. Should be renamed SSR-25DD.