D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01, published

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
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Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

Optional Components

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320
Cable Chain - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167746
Vslot Endcaps - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515
Tubing Clips - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213
Bowden retraction stabilizer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Extruder Manual Feed Knob (small) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:474394
Vslot Channel Cover - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

D-Bot and C-Bot Differences

1) The lead screws and Z motors were moved forward to better lift the print bed from its center of gravity rather than use a fully cantilevered print bed.
2) Increased printable Z height to 330mm (~13")
3) Use of 20mm rails for the bottom sections to save cost and reduce bulk.
4) Various adjustments of printable parts, either to add plastic where it seemed like more rigidity was needed or to subtract plastic where it was not needed.
5) Accessories such as a simplified spool holder a cable chain for bed wiring
6) Relocated endstop mounting to maximize Y travel and utilize default homing scheme.
7) Overall reduction in cost compared to the original bill of materials (2$ square nuts vs 40$ Tnuts, etc.)

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I'm not sure where to right place to post this comment is but would anyone be willing to help me out by selling me the printed parts? It's not worth fixing my old printer just to print them.
I found this seller but the parts are printed in PLA and priced very high when considering shipping to Australia (WA).

Honestly 110 USD isn't too bad of a price. There are a lot of parts for this printer. It took me like 2 weeks of print time to complete it. Granted I was printing slow so I could get quality prints but still. You should consider fixing your old printer with the parts needed for the D-bot. For instance, if your hot end is clogged to all hell, buy the E3D and install it on your current printer to get it printing. Same could be said with the logic board, power supply, lead screws etc. Once you have all the D-bot parts printed, remove the borrowed parts and build your D-Bot. I will say it was very helpful having a 3d printer up and running while building the D-Bot. I somehow managed to break the extruder bracket and needed to reprint it. Plus having multiple printers is awesome! :D

Does anyone know how far the corners go into the side rails? I have some 400mm linear rail and was thinking of doing the 300mm build but wasn't sure if it would fit on the sides? Basically the build sheet lists the side rails at 448mm (for the 300mm bed) but I was wondering how much of that is taken up by the corner pieces?

is there a BOM for quantity's of parts I need to print to build this D-bot?

thank you.

The file names of the individual parts start with a number indicating how many of that part need to be printed.

awesome, thank you.

Does anyone use Simplify 3D with there D-Bot? So yes, pleaseeee share me ur print settings...

I use Simplify 3D what settings are you needing?

Can you import de ff settings to me? i need everything :)

Can you share Your arduino code for Your 3D printer? I am working on creating one myself With 400 stepper motors.

its all on the downloads page

I am making mine in Purple color :)

WoW 90 Made so-far.

Can this be modify for dual end extrudes?

Hi All. I have built the D-bot and it works great. However I am trying to install A BLtouch sensor and have run into an issue. When I turn every thing on, I get a red light and BLtouch pin is retracted. when I try to home z axis nothing happens. I can use jog controls and z moves. I can home X and Y and they work fine. I can issue the pin in and pin out commands as well as the continuous test and BLtouch does as it is supposed to? So what am I missing with the Homing of the Z axis?


1- I need help with the bowden system. The filament sometimes is not push enough and don't exit from the extruder !!!
2 - Hox do you make the connector to hold just above the extruder motor. I try to attach it, but it seems to work only when it wants !!!
3 - Has someone a direct carriage for the extrudeur ???

Thank you

I've read the build guide and bill of materials, but I can't seem to find what wire gauge should be used from the power supply to the SSR, SSR to heated bed, power supply to the RAMPS board and from the ramps board to the hot end. Could someone please tell me what the official specifications are, or if there aren't any, could you please tell me what gauge you used.


14awg between psu, bed, and ramps, 22awg for everything else including hot end, motors, endstops. all stranded wire


Hi, Anyone having issues with inconsistent Z moves? I'm running smoothieware on an MKS Sbase 1.3 and am struggling to get rid of Z lines. The printer is perfect in every other way.

someone has configuration.h for leveling with inductive sensor?
thank you

same here.
I have another pb. I order a first bed 300x200 (link in the bom). It arrived not flat at all.
I contacted and sent pictures to the seller. He sent me another one. Same issue.
Even with a glass on it, it still not flat.
For yet I will put the 200x200 mk3 bed ...

First time builder, long time geek-er.

I'm about 90% done with my Corexy Dbot but im having issues with the Zstage.
I made 2 changes to the system. I upgraded to the Stepper motors to 84oz/in instead of the 72. and im using 24v for the whole system including the bed and hot end.

Im just wondering if you had any tips for tuning the ZMotors. They buzz and bind up every time. Ive aligned and realigned a few times with the same result. any ideas?


Check your current, sounds like it's to high.

Just a question about homing : What is the normal move of x carriage and Y carriage ?

If I move x axis from 0 to 80 it goes right (when your in front of the machine)
If I move y axis from 0 to 80 it goes from rear to front.

The endstop X is for min and Y too ?

X min Y max Z min. Homing order is X,Y,Z

Thank you. After inversing motors wires it's now ok.
I got a pb with the Z platform.
Sometime it does up or down. I hear motors, but nothing happen ...
I think I must find where exactly to screw the rod. (I do the 300x300)

If some one has the length, and can share.
I will go to the original z carriage. I had printed the 3 whgeeled version, but I don't like it.

Now, other question : I solered the power button and wired the alim.
Is it normal that button off, it remains 220V between L and G on the alim connectors ? (alim is still off).
If I switch on the power button, the alim switch on and switch on the ramps.

When I soldered the button, does it have to cut the L or the N ?

Switch should cut L

What is alim?

Read page 1 of the build guide

Sorry, I used the french word ... Alim(alimentation) is power supply.

Mar 16, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017

Another question, what is the purpose of the SSR ? does it heat the bed more quickly ?

2) I got a pb with the ptfe tube. How do I remove it from the big part ? I pull or push the black ring it does nothing ...


Thank you

2) Push on the ring and pull on the tube

Simply put, a solid state relay is like an electronically controlled switch. Think of it as a beefed-up version of the Mosfets on the Ramps board that send electricity to the hot-end. A 5v logic signal from the arduino is sent to the mosfet, and in turn the mosfet allows for 12v to flow to the hotend. The same theory applies with a SSR, however, instead of sending 12V to the hotend (or in this case heated bed) the SSR can deliver 120V (mains power right from your wall). Yes it will heat the bed more quickly BUT ONLY if you have a 120V heated bed. If you have a standard 12V PCB heated bed you will break it by wiring it to a SSR using mains power. The advantages of using a SSR are twofold. The first is that for two beds with equivalent power ratings (watts) the one using the SSR will draw significantly less amperage than the one driven from the mosfets on the ramps board, and you won't have to worry as much about your wires heating up. The second is that the power that is used to heat the bed doesn't come from the printer's power supply, but instead right from the wall. The power supply listed in the BOM will struggle to get your bed very hot if it has to run a large heated bed, considering it also has to supply power to all of the stepper motors and the hotend in the printer. Please make sure if you do get a SSR that you are comfortable working with mains power as you will have to supply 120V right to the relay. WIRE YOUR PRINTER FRAME TO THE PROTECTIVE EARTH RAIL ON YOUR POWER SUPPLY IF YOU DO THIS!

You should be able to either press or pull on the plastic rings opposite the threads shown in the photo and then pull the teflon tube out. Sometimes this can be hard because the teflon is very slippery. I would advise against using pliers to pull on the tubing as it is quite easy to crush it slightly, which will make it harder for filament to pass through and could cause your extruder to jam. Worst case just cut a little bit off right where it comes out of the fitting and push the small bit through the fitting to get rid of it. Don't install the tubing until you are at the very end of the process then.

Please do not suggest that people use a 120v heated bed. Also that is not how the SSR is being used on this printer

The bed is in 12v as in the BOM of spauda01. So here, what's the purpose of the ssr ? Making the arduino to heat less ?

The current needed to power the heated beat at 12V can exceed the current rating of the cheap terminal connectors on the Ramps board. Its to prevent the current from going into the Ramps 1.4 board and damaging the terrible cheap Chinese connectors. With the SSR, the current goes from the power supply, through the SSR, to the heated bed. Without the SSR, the current would go from the power supply to the ramps 1.4 board, through the ramps bed connector, to the heated bead.

Hi,,I got a question : I'm trying to adjust the two belts.
But, when the belts are in place, the rail which support the extruder is no more parallel to the back v-slot !!
If I try to tigh less, the belt don't make the bar move smoothly...

What do I wrong ?

A good way to get the crossbar into the right position is to move it all the way to it's rear position and then tightly tie each end to the rear crossbeam. You can also accomplish this using c-clamps or by having another person hold the bar tightly in place. Once it's clamped/tied in place tighten the belts as much as you can since they are so long, and only once the belts are tight release the clamps. This will make your arm be perfectly square in all positions. :)

I just give a try to a prototype of adjustable belt tensionner, and it fix the issue you are facing. I will share it once I will have finish my built. So your probleme might be because one of your 2 belts is more tensionned than the other. try to release one or tension more the other one.

Mar 16, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017
davidmarli - in reply to 1sPiRe

Thank you. Indeed, releasing a bit on the first belt, and tighting the other a bit more is perfect ...

I am hoping someone might have some advice for me. I got everything assembled pretty much, however i am noticing that the Extruder mount doesn't move smoothly, the rest of the moving parts are perfect, but the extruder mount is very hard to move. I don't see any way to adjust the tension on that mount, as uses the top and bottom, any suggestions on how i can work with that mount to get it moving better?

JQE - in reply to JQE

I think i may see something, it looks like the bottom holes are longer, to allow for up and down movement. I will see if i can get them to move down slightly to give more freedom of motion.

Make sure you don't overtighten the locknuts that are used to hold the M5 screws that clamp the carriage together. Overtightening these will cause the bearings inside the delrin v-wheels to bind and become stuck. In addition to this the bottom holes are not only elongated like you pointed out but they are also finished off with a wedge that forces the bolts to move closer to the aluminum extrusion. I found that if I relied on letting the tightening move the bolts into the snug position they would become overtightened and bind. Try getting the two top wheels to a good tightness (to where anymore torque on the locknut will cause binding) and then try to replicate this torque on the bottom bolts. Once you've done this with the bottom bolts squeeze the bottom bolts up towards the top ones in order to snug them up against the extrusion. Verify a good fit by trying to rotate the carriage about the y-axis. If you have done this properly there should be no play for this.

I have built everything by the book and I currently at the programming phase of the build. I've inputted everything number by number from the guide yet when I try to move the x,y and z nothing happens at all. Well there is something that happens and that is on the z-axis motors and there is a loud buzzing noise but they do not move. Non of my motors move but those are the only two that make sounds. I've adjusted the voltage from the little steppers turning them every which way but still nothing, the buzzing on z-axis only decreases slightly.

Anyone else have this problem that could help? Thank you.

Make sure that the 4-pin connectors that are on the stepper leads are wired properly. There are a lot of different color codes used for stepper motors but one sure-fire way to find out which two cables are connected to the same coil is to connect two of the cables together and spin the spindle of the motor. If when you spin the shaft you notice resistance to the motion, that means the two wires you are holding together are part of the same coil. The two wires corresponding to the same coil will likely be labeled A1 & A2 or B1 & B2 in the wiring diagram, so ensure that the wires are hooked up properly on your board. Motors with improperly wired leads will just whine and shake a little bit.

Curious. If you haven't yet, join the Facebook D-Bot group. Plenty of people in there to help out.
I assume Power Supply running proper voltage? 3 Jumpers are placed under each Stepper Driver? Using Spauda01's Marlin coding?

Searched the comments, nothing of value:
So ive been using this printer for the last + 8 Months(Thanks very much spauda)
anyway, ive always dealt with it but i plan on building a couple for friends soon. heres my problem:
When i home, I have to home the X and Y, then move the X off the endstop(1mm does it) then it will home the Z axis, if I do not move the X axis, then the Z will go the opposite way maybe 5MM and stop, it will not home.
Also is there any firmware updates?
Thanks for the guide again spauda!

Check Marlin to see if you are using the safe home feature for the z-axis. If this is enabled it only allows for homing of the z-axis when the carriage is at a specific coordinate point in the XY planes. This is useful for printers with inductive probes as it ensures that the probe will always be above a point where there is sure to be metal that it can sense underneath. I'm not confident that this will solve the problem but it might be a good place to start looking.

I've been using the Marlin 1.1.0 rc8 for D-Bot (Posted in Remixes for D-Bot here on thingiverse)
I see no change in my printer. So if it fixes or helps out over the original D-Bot Marlin I can't really say.

Mar 8, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017

I'm finally building this printer. I'm looking at this for a 300mmx300mm bed and found this. https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5 and perhaps https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70 this heater to heat it. Do you think this will work good ? Any help would be great !!

Thanks so much for all the work you have done for us on this printer !


Mar 8, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017
Wnelson_MTU - in reply to Digger60

Hey Tom,

I wrote out a very long and thoughtful response to this comment as I have also built a D-bot using the same aluminum cast plate. I said hot as he** when talking about the heater pad and it has been flagged for moderation.... :( I won't rewrite everything but long story short.

-Quality of the plate is great, very flat and aluminum is imo the best build surface, just slap on some gluestick and you're ready to go
-The plate is heavy, sometimes on long travel moves (not while printing) this causes one z-motor to miss steps while the other still moves, tilting the plate out of whack.
-You will NEED an inductive sensor to help with this
-Also I would recommend doing the mod that I have seen some other people do where they connect the two z-motors with a belt, should help alleviate the problem. Once you've done that this will be rock solid. If you don't do this prepare to endlessly tinker with the z-leadscrews like me :(
-750W might be overkill for the heater depending on how patient you are, I use a 500W pad and it gets hot as he** :) (10 min to get to 130C)

Thanks for the quick response ! I'm looking at getting the 1/4 inch plate. How many oz is your motors ? Wonder if I got a stronger motor for the z axis ? Do you happen to remember the link for the guy running the belt off two motors ?

Thanks again


Hello Tom,

My motors are 68 oz-in as advertised on Sparkfun. Here is the link https://www.sparkfun.com/search/results?term=NEMA+17
To the best of my knowledge this is about the top limit for these motors in terms of torque, that is unless you want to use a longer frame size. Motors like these (60mm length as opposed 47mm for the normal) are available but are not easy to find in the 400 steps/revolution version, which I recommend unless you are getting nicer stepper drivers that can handle smaller micro stepping than the ones in the BOM for the D-Bot. Prints with these motors are super crisp and pretty fast. Make sure if you do go for a longer stepper motor that the drivers you have will be able to be able to supply ample current to them. You won't get any extra power from the motors unless you can crank up your drivers as well. A good place to look up this information is on Pololu's website about drivers. https://www.pololu.com/product/2971.

Here is a link to one of the D-bots that uses the z-axis belt coupling system
Not sure if the design files are posted or not but it looks pretty simple to replicate

Good luck with the project!

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer
by Eberleg

Thanks, I will look into it. Here is the link that he has in his build...http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/3d-printer/nema17-stepper-motor-kl17h247-150-4a-for-3d-printer its a 76oz. I have seen 89oz on amazon. Have to check out the diver into to use them.



Mar 8, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017
Wnelson_MTU - in reply to Digger60

Hey Tom,

I made myself a D-bot over the last semester at school using the very same aluminum cast plate from midweststeelsupply. It works so-so. The surface is very flat and aluminum is a good heat conductor and easy to work with, so all in all it should make a perfect heated bed. That being said the plate I used is 1/4" thick and the mass that it adds to the z-axis assembly is pretty significant. With the 1/4" plate I have to run my stepper drivers HOT! Good cooling on the board is necessary if you decide to go this route, I have an enclosure around my electronics with a fan blowing air through and would definitely not want to print without it using this setup. Even with the drivers running at max capacity I have some issues with the surface un-leveling itself (one motor will skip steps but the other will not) when raising the platform a large amount (over 70mm or so), which, to say the least is a pain.... You will have to try really hard to get the z-axis leadscrews aligned properly without binding. The printer works well once the first layer is done, but even if you are using an inductive sensor (you will NEEEEED it with this bed) be prepared to tinker with the bed if using a 1/4" plate. Many people have added a belt that connects the two z-motors so that they cannot become desynchronized. I have been meaning to do this for a while but I haven't yet so I can't attest to how it will actually work, but I'm pretty confident that this is the best theoretical solution, and that by adding it you will get great results. Without that addition I would rate the setup overall as a 6/10. With the belt connector I would imagine it being a 10/10. Moving onto the other link, the heater pad you picked will work great! You could even go with a little less power. I am using a 500W pad and it gets this thing hotter than hell. Over 120C easy. Takes about 8 minutes or so to get to 85 (which I use for PETG) but I run a lot of long prints so it doesn't cost me too much in overall efficiency. If you do go with a plate and heater make sure that the thermistor is installed in the middle of the cast plate underneath the heating pad. This is acheived easily by drilling a small hole (only halfway through!!!) and then using thermal cement or muffler compound to secure the thermistor then laying the pad down over the top. Also if you run this a lot prepare for the room it's stored in to be about 10 degrees hotter than the rest of your house. If you have any other questions reply again and I can share pictures or other insights.


I ordered a 5050 led strip with ir. Where do I find the led controller board ?

I am doing this for a school projects but appatently i need a power supply that is Australian complient and is double insulated which the one in the design isn't. So far the only solution i can think of is using a Desk top power supply in a compact PC case (Which i have been told is allowed) but im not sure how i would wire anything.
Does anyone have any solutions for power supplies or wireing diagrams i could follow for a Desk top power supply?

Mar 6, 2017 - Modified Mar 6, 2017
Thebrakshow - in reply to Salesian

Good luck...You wont find a class 2 power supply in the power range you need for under $250... You will most likely have to get 2 supplies, one for the bed alone( I would suggest a 24V supply, heated bed takes ~130watts!!), and one for the rest of the electronics (12V). I would look into Meanwell or Sparklepower FSP. They have class 2 supplies with a IEC230-C8 plug. I know sparkle has RCM (previously C-tick) certs on some of the supplies but you might have inquire as to which ones actually have it.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017

Trying to get Auto bed leveling with a probe. I have the probe working as my Z min. However when I do a G28 X homes. Y homes. But the Z doesn't home in the center like it should I have safe homing enabled.
Here is my config file.

If I reverse my X and Y and make my Y end stop a min. It works as it should. But then everything prints backwards. I would rather keep things stock in regards to motion.

Anyone besides me having their z axis motors making a high pitch noise and not moving? I swapped the connectors and even took the z screws off.

Mine does the same as long as it's engaged

I just finished my build and rubbing the initial testing phase and I can't get anything out-of ANY motors but the z-axis ones are the only one making a noise.

because the display 12864 does not work with the d-bot firmware?

I believe you have to uncomment #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER in Configurations.h and install the U8glib library in your Arduino environment. You will need to recompile the code with the changes and upload it to the Arduino mega board.

Ok perfect
thank you very much

Can someone who uses a Chimera tell me how they set it up in the software and how they have their secondary extruder wired and set up as well. Please and thank you.

I have to say I love this machine. I've been running mine constantly for months now and it's been extremely reliable. Far from perfect, my printer is using some slightly damaged parts(I cracked from over-tightening), a few things I know I should replace due to wear and tear(from previous use) and it still performs admirably.

One of my favorite prints so far was a purple PLA knight statue I believe I posted a picture of in my profile here. It was huge and looks nearly flawless. I would only wish to make it again, larger, for more detail!

I am planning to modify mine to increase robustness and add new functionality, such as heated enclosure, filtered air, and making the build platform larger(which the frame was built for, but I never got around to installing a larger bed) and making the platform more rigid.

I'm currently printing parts for a "mostly printed cnc"!


Thanks again for not only providing the build guide, but putting all the hard work into designing, updating, and communicating with the community on improvements and changes!

If you want an enclosed printer check out the Ebot remix

Thanks, I'll look into it!

Feb 26, 2017 - Modified Feb 26, 2017

Can i use Solid wire from power supply to ramps? and to ssr. everything else stranded wire?

wouldnt recommend it

Mounting coming to the end ... but before I assemble the belts, the extruder moved really freely and without force, now with the belts properly stretched, I find that the extruder is really hard to move ... is it normal ??? Or I have to look for a problem ??

Avant que je monte les courroies, l'extrudeur bougeais vraiment librement et sans forcer, maintenant avec les courroies correctement tendues, je trouve que l'extrudeur est vraiment dur a bouger ... c'est normal ??? ou je dois chercher un probleme

The carriage will be considerably harder to move after the belts are installed because you are then moving both belts and motors at the same time with the added tension from the belts going around the motors and idlers. I don't have number or percentage of increased force because I didn't measure these. I just started with some short movement commands after assembly to check strain on the motors and freedom of movement overall.

Thank you for your message ... so ... I continue !

Thanks ysdhnm

The command "pip install -r requirements.txt" gives me "no such option:

I checked my /usr/share folder and there is no file Printrun or Pronterface

Still no joy in Mudville

Would I be correct in assuming that the measurements listed for the bed carriage holder/spacing are not for a 300x300 bed? Looks like I have to extend the arms a few mm. The other problem I am seeing is the the z motor holders won't extend further to accommodate the larger bed as there hitting up against the 2x2 that's holding the rail. Anyone else have this issue and did you just cut it to extend it?

At the end of the Build Document are the cuts for a 300x300 build. I used them and have not had any issues with it.

Thanks for the reply, I followed the 300x300 build cuts, I ended up having to use dremel to cut a small square out the 2x2 and a pc off the lower 3x3 to allow the zaxis motor holder to move far enough over to be in line and not bending the zrod. Ive tipple checked all my measurements so the bed is centered not sure why I needed to do that but it works and hasn't had any other trouble during the build.

I also had to do the same. I designed a 2x2 with a notch out of it so the motors can be pushed out further towards the ends.

2x1 Plate Cut out
by jskala

perfect, super clean design, love it!

I'm having the same problem as you. They are both pushed out to the max

Has anyone setup Ponterface on Ubuntu 1604?

Just going around in circles - tried different suggestions from google searches

I had issues with Linux mint but not Infront of my computer. Here are some things you can try in the pronterface dir.

sudo apt-get install python-serial python-wxgtk3.0 python-pyglet python-numpy cython python-libxml2 python-gobject python-dbus python-psutil python-cairosvg git

pip install -r requirements.txt
sudo pip install Cython
python setup.py build_ext --inplace
sudo apt-get install python-psutil

Anyone using S3D can you maybe share your settings that you have working well with a Bowden setup. I have it working but I am getting a ton of bumps and pimples on prints.

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 22, 2017

Does anybody tried to build all with T-Slot extrusion? I dont mean changing wheels to rails. I am not sure but openbuild mini v-wheels is looking fine with T-Slot extrusion.

Could you explain the usefulness of the relay in this project?

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 23, 2017

I made a 300x300 version , I am using an mk2 heated bed 328x328 mm real dimensions.
Now I have problem fitting the 3 holes plate because the motor mount limit the space on the side.
I don't have problem modifying the motor mount but I would like to know if it is only me with this problem , is it possible that I made some problem during assembling?


Yes I had the same problem,
I modified the motor mount (removed one of the rabbit ears) and replaced the bottom 3X3_Plate with 2X1_plate that attaches to the bottom for the 20X20 motor bar.
you need both on one side to get enough room.

That gave enough room

Thank you for your replay , I am planning to use a "one Z axis motor mount" solution so I will not have this problem anymore but thank you for your feedback now I know I that I didn't make mistakes assembling the printer

I plan on using the Keenovo 300 X 300mm 120V 750W Silicone Heater Pad and was wondering how to set it up. How can I control it with the raps 1.4 board? Also since this heat pad is being powered separately from the board can I get a smaller power supply since now the board is now only powering the hotend and motors now?

I was having some simular concerns with my bed too, it's a big bed so I wanted a sperate power supply. This is all new to me so I didn't fully understand how all the powering worked. But I read a lot of comments and did some research and really looked at the wiring diagram. I too thought that the board controlled the heat bed but that's not actually the case. The heat bed is powered strictly from the Power Supply Unit. Now what the board does is actually control the relay which acts as a switch. If the bed needs to be heated up the board flips the switch and let's power run to the bed by means of the relay. So really all you need to do is get a relay that can handle your new Power Supply Unit.

I hope this makes since, as I said I'm still learning and others please correct me if I am wrong in what I'm saying.

Helps a lot. I understand it now. Thanks a lot. You need a 120v relay though right?

Yes. But from what I can tell a lot of them can handle a wide range of voltage, it's the AC/DC conversion you need to get right. Just make sure it can handle your input and the correct output.

You sound like you don't know what you're doing which is dangerous. Use a DC bed.

I know how to wire and solder and everything, I am just confused how to use the ramps to control it with the heat bed not using the ramps board to power it.

If you arent really arent going to help dont comment.

Look at the wiring diagram. The dc bed isnt powered off the ramps either and it is still controlled by it.

Yes but I think 12 volts is still running through it and to the board and i cant do that with a 120 volts. I might be wrong there

I wasn't trying to be rude when I said before that it sounds like you don't know what you're doing. I'm genuinely concerned for your safety if you attempt 120V AC wiring and don't know what you're doing.

This is probably a stupid question but what is the solid state relay exactly doing?

It switches the heated bed. Being it a heavy load (a 200x300mm heater can pull quite some power...) a MOSFET or other relay may not be sufficient, hence the SSR.

Hello. And where to get the details for the project in the format solidvorks? Sorry for my english

Hey guys, I have some misumi profiles laying around, is it posible to use them for the parts that does not need to have wheels on them and only buy the v-slot for xyz?

Hello, does great value dimension stepper motors? The bill of materials specified 76 mm motor ( order it is problematic), but Ali has mainly 42 mm ... Thank you

Wow! what a sweet design! I've ordered my rail for a 300x300! Most comprehensive build guide I've ever seen on an open source project. KUDOS to you sir. It looks like some folks are having trouble cutting and tapping the rails, I'm willing to help cut/tap/cleanup rails pretty expensively here in Auburn, WA. if anybody is looking for help. Just send a message my way and we can work something out.

I would like to use a single Z axis motor, anyone use this solution?

Parts for Adding Third Z Screw to D-Bot
Feb 16, 2017 - Modified Feb 16, 2017

I am building mine to the 300x300 dimensions, i've purchased everything except for the heat bed, build plate and the hot end. I've already started assembly on it and as I'm looking for heated beds I am having difficulty finding any that fit the PSU, can anyone sugguest a heated bed or perhaps a better PSU?

Thank you very much.

1200w hp server psu amazone 32.00$
makerfarm 12v 12x12 approx $70
still need something to support the bed
I looked into that
probably about 40 for aluminum sheet from mcmastercarr

i found an aluminum plate on Ebay thats perfect.
Do you have that PSU running the whole printer are just the heat bed?

I am still waiting on the psu. so I am currently using a 300w psu to trouble shoot stepper motors. My gantry is not moving correctly and my z steppers are getting very hot. I think my screws need to be realigned.

I will be running the everything for the printer from the 1200w 12v hp psu.

Can you provide a link to the aluminum plate? Have you recieved it and it has holes or is at least flat?

I lost a set of bearings so I haven't been able to complete the set up to even test anything out. I was thinking about just using the PSU I have and just get another one just like it to run the bed.


This is the plate that I am going to buy. I haven't bought it yet, been waiting on pay day, but that is Thursday so I should have it in next week. I will let you know how it all fits together when i get it though. Its made in the USA so I can only assume it will be good quality, that's why Im going with this one and not some china one.

Feb 18, 2017 - Modified Feb 21, 2017
C7_Vette - in reply to thejordonian

I went through a few heat beds before finally settling on the KEENOVO Silicone Heater. It is AC powered and I used a SSR-25DA to control it. I added an addition fused switch (15amp) adjacent to the switch that powers the rest of the printer. No power supply needed with this setup and I simply grounded it to the printer frame. I used a heavy duty 14AWG 15amp power supply cable for this plug. In my opinion this is the best option with large beds. The silicone pad will need to be mounted under an aluminum plate. Mine heats up to 110°C in less than 3 minutes. I found that 12v DC beds this size just could not heat up enough, no matter how long I waited, even with a dedicated power supply.

I was looking at ssr's for this setup and I was wondering is 25amp relay enough?

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 28, 2017
C7_Vette - in reply to 01eggy10

With a good quality heater it is more than enough. The pad I used is 600w which after initial heat up only equates to 5amps (600W / 120v=5Amps). It never draws more than 10Amps even on start up. The SSR stays cool to the touch even after a 24hr print. Let me also mention the fact that the first silicone heater I tried was cheaper in price and seemed to be of good quality but something was wrong with it because I blew 2 fuses before concluding that it was bad and therefore too dangerous to even try another fuse. I checked the wiring again and again to just make sure it was done correctly, which I knew was already correct but when something happens like that I suppose you tend to second guess yourself. At this point I pealed the pad off my aluminum plate and returned the heater pad for a refund through Amazon. Then I decided to go with the Keenovo.
Also as Spauda has mentioned several times, AC power is not something to play around with when unsure about it. I'm not saying you don't know how to do it, just wanted to mention to anyone reading this.I also use a 15Amp surge protector as well as a 15Amp fused switch as redundant protection.

With it plugged directly to power how can you control the temperature on this?

Feb 21, 2017 - Modified Feb 21, 2017
C7_Vette - in reply to thejordonian

You use the SSR-25DA with input coming from the Ramps board as with the DC bed which controls the temperature. I don't have the heat bed pad connected to a power supply. The wiring diagram in the appendix shows the setup for the AC type bed connected to the same power supply that runs the printer but it does not need to be connected to a power supply. Instead of connecting the wiring to the power supply I connected to a 2nd fused switch so I could turn on the printer and the bed by separate switches. Then power is supplied to the heat bed pad by simply plugging in the power cord into the switch.
But to answer your question, it is stilled controlled by the SSR.

Gotcha, thanks for that detailed reply. Sorry Im still pretty new to all this and the whole SSR thing kinda confused me as to what purpose it served but I understand it now.


I found this heat bed on Ebay, I looked at the one you reconmended but as of now it's not in the budget. I'll have to try and use that one as best as i can until i can afford the better KEENOVO

If you are not as skilled, you should stick to the stock design as much as possible. Wiring an AC bed is an advanced technique and it could be deadly if done wrong.

"I used a SSR-25DA to control it"

When you say grounded to printer frame do you mean earth(green) or neutral(white)?

Earth green

Feb 15, 2017 - Modified Feb 15, 2017

Could this be setup as a dual extrusion?
Edit: How does the bed leveling work?

Yes, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620590
You just use an Allen key or wrench on the bed screws to level

D-Bot - Two extruders
by Gerzzz

Hi, I have a tempered glass of 314x314 mm and I would like to know if I can put a plate of 330x330 mm of aluminum to warm the bed, it enters the structure of 300x300? regards


is there a real difference between tslot and vslot ?

V-Slot Drawing
T-Slot Drawing

The V-Slot wheels wont align with the T-Slot and the 3D-Printed Parts.

I need to upgrade my steppers. But I can't decide which to choose:
1.8° ?V 1.8A 5.4kg/cm
0.9° 4.35V 1.5A 4.4kg/cm
Bot are double in kg/cm then mine. I'm running DRV8825's so I got enough juice to power them, but I'm concerned about the heat that comes with the big Steppers because the stepper holding parts are still PLA.
Any Advice?

Any chance you could export/attach STEP files?

would if i had any

I wired up the SSR and bed like in the document. Seemed to work the first time. I went to test the bed again and as soon as I turn the machine on the unit starts to heat up. Even though I didn't turn the bed on yet. What would cause this? Is the SSR bad ? Or my ramps?

did you bolt the ssr to a frame piece or heatsink

Yes I sure did bolt it to the frame. Noticed the light on the SSR also doesn't work any more strange.

double check your wiring on ssr pin 1 and 2. having the bed heat up when you power on the printer is a possible sign those wires are swapped

I did. I am using this heater https://folgertech.com/products/12v-280w-silicone-heated-bed-300x300mm-12x12
So there is no ground/postive not polarized I was told. but I do have 1 going to one bed wire 2 going to + on power supply. the second bed wire is on the power supply ground.

can you link to the ssr you bought

It looks legit based on this: http://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

but i dont know how they get them so cheap, that says knockoff to me.

did you get the 25 or the 40? 280w/12v is 23.33333333333 amps, thats a lot of juice. I use a 40a relay and only pass about 9amps peak through it to have plenty of margin. if i were you id get a ssr-100dd

Got a source for one?

.banggood.com/Wholesale-Aluminum-Alloy-Heat-Sink-For-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-Small-Type-Heat-Dissipation-p-48066.html?rmmds=search WITH THERMAL PASTE BETWEEN THEM AND BECAUSE OURS ARE IN AN ENCLOSURE I ADD A FAN.. WE ALWAYS USE RELAYS RATED AT TWICE OF WHAT WE ARE HOOKING TO

Thanks I will put in an order.

dont give up troubleshooting the other one, you still need to know root cause

Not sure what else could be causing it. I tried a new Ramps setup and everything and it still starts heating up. Even tried without the ramps wired in and it still heats up. I have to assume that the thing is fried or bad and is fully switched on at this point.

connect 12v from the power supply to hte ssr input terminals and see if hte light blinks


I really like this project - thanks for sharing it with us.

Just two questions:

1) Is it possible to operate the Z-axis with only one stepper-motor in the middle and two fixed rods left and right? Because I don't want to get into balancing-problems like I have it right now with my Prusa i3, that uses the same technic (but for the X-axis, not for the heatbed).
2) For rigidity-reasons I would like to use as few printed parts as possible. Is it possible to replace the 14 printed corner-bracket with metal-ones (e.g. alloy) that I bought?

Best regards


Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017
1sPiRe - in reply to DAPFAU

The core XY "X" motor is the left one, and the "Y" motor is the right one. Indeed the front of the printer is the side of this 2 steppers. The left side is the Xmin side and the right side is the Xmax side ; front is Ymin, and back Ymax.

dear sir

I just build d bot core xy, I used the electronic and motors component from sunhokey prusa i3.
the main board i used is mks 2z v1.2.
i have test the printer with repertier and working properly.
but i have problem that the controller cannot display properly. only display 2 lines, so i cannot print with sd card.
i used dbot marlin software and can print with repertier in computer, but controller and sd card not working.
i tried flash firmware to marlin rc7 sunhokey, the controller work, but the printer can,t work.
i have googling to solve the problem , but not succes.
anyone can help me, how to configure the controller.

thank you


problem solved, i use older sofware arduino v 1.0.5, it can compile without error for dbot marlin. now i can print with sd card.

I will admit I have not read all the Comments below, there are 000's

My question is: How BIG can we make this?... I am looking for a build area of 400mm 400mm 400mm

You can go as big as you want. The issue will be finding and powering a heated bed (if you plan on having one).

I really like how the side that rolls along the back is solidly attached to the frame. Im wondering if it's possible to do the sme thing in the front for a full solid grip on all 4 sides, and just place the Z lead screws in the middle, without playing with the center of gravity too much/at all? Drilling holes for wiring is not an issue, but would love for this to be as solid as physically possible (over-engineering at it's finest :p )

Take a look at the J-Bot (a D-Bot remix).

Thank you very much! This is totally what I was thinking!

I've got my D-Bot set up like you describe (Centered Z lead screws and front/back Z rails). I only added the front Z-rail because I have a VERY heavy aluminum (6mm thick ATP5) build plate and wanted to distribute the weight.

You really don't need it otherwise IMHO..

Does anyone have any good pics of how the Z and Y end stop wiring is ran? I know it is in the rear tucked under with a 2020 cover. But from that corner how is it routed to the ramps box?

You can run the wiring however you want, it doesnt have to be like in the pictures, I would recommend not doing it like the pictures because that requires extra hole drilling and wire routing

I wasn't aware you drilled holes to get it that way that explains a lot. Understood I will go another route.

Anyone know why I can't get the screw to hit the Y end stop? The gantry hits the rear idler before the screw head hits the end stop bar. Any Ideas on a fix?

Feb 6, 2017 - Modified Feb 6, 2017
1sPiRe - in reply to jskala

I did have the exact same issue which I fixed with wide washers on the screw that should have hit the endstop.

That was my next approach thought maybe I did something wrong. Think the y end stop holder needs to be a touch longer.

I guess it's due to slight differences between different endstops.

I just configured a 1.1.0-RC8 for my D-Bot.
I'm very happy with the new FW since its a lot smarter in homing and other neat stuff. I won't post my Configuration.h because my steppers and settings differ too much from Spaudas. But for everyone curious: It works :)

I had everything working for a few prints and then my Z axis motors started doing this


This is when I home my z axis. x and y work great. This sound happens before the z endstop is reached. I can manually raise the bed to the endstop without any trouble. Has anyone else run into this issue?

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017

Got my D-Bot running... into some troubles :)
I can move all axes like a charm on manual control. Even Diagonal, everything perfect.
But when I try to print something the steppers randomly pull against each other or something:

This should be a 20x20mm Cube but the first layers get shifted and I have some bad layers.
I've already tried to push the drivers from .55 to .61 but the only thing that happend is that the cube gets shifted diagonaly... Any tips on how to narrow down the problem?

BTW: Im running a 24v PSU and a 24v 300x300 Heatbed. Everything else gets feed by a 24v to 12v 10A Converter. The Heatbed gets hot extremly fast. Less then a minute.

I would start by adjusting your acceleration, or slowing the print speed down. the artifacts you are seeing on the edges are from wobble due to the print head moving to quickly for it's weight....i think. Also, the shifting can be caused by improperly tuned drivers... what voltage are yours running at? if they are undervolted, the motors will have a hard time running, if they are running too high, the motors and the drivers will heat up under operation and eventually start studdering / shifting causing missed steps and making the shift. I would verify with a multimeter that all steppers are between .5 and .7 volts.

Let me know if this helps!

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 5, 2017
bhorn - in reply to DSchmidt54

Thanks for your reply!
First thing I tried was to tune the stepper. Tried everything between .5 and .65 volts. No success.
But I "debugged" the G-Code to see when it "jumps". And I found the particular Code:
G1 X163.449 Y159.595 F7800.000
G1 X163.202 Y142.430 F7800.000
In other Words: Fast Travels.
So I tuned them down to 7200 (120mm/s) and it did the trick. Much less jumps but I need to reduce it even further. I manually testet 7000 and it went quite well.

But my extruders still hopping and even change direction for a step or so. Tried everything from .55 to .65 volt. Just happens at "high speed extrude". Need to look at that, too.

Slowing down Travel to 7000 did the trick:

Anybody know of a good tablet mount for this printer or 2020 in general. Want to use it for Octopi with this and mount in lue of a LCD.

Feb 2, 2017 - Modified Feb 2, 2017
TheLost - in reply to jskala

I don't use a tablet but i do have an official Raspberry Pi 7" touch screen on mine ($60). You can take a look at my D-Bot build (click the 'Made' link) to see it. I posted the mount i made for that display a few months ago (under my designs)

Thanks, that is a thought. I was just trying to use things I already had around instead of buying something else.

Hello and thank you for all this work.
I also build this D-BOT.
I use arduino / ramps 1.4, should I put jumpers in X, Yet Z ????
If yes how many per axis?
Thank you for your reply.
And hello from France.

Fill out all slots with jumpers (3 jumpers for each stepstik), it will give you 1/16 microstepping. Also remember to put the stepstick in the right way.

Hi. Thanks for this work. I had T-SLOT extrusion, exists a remix for this?

I believe the rails (E) (F) (A) (B) and maybe (C) (D) for 300x300mm extra bed support need to be V-Slot, the rails length can be found the PDF, but I believe the rest of the rails can be T-Slot, have a look at the parts modified for using T-Slot.


I am planing on making a D-Bot with both V-Slot and T-Slot with a larger 300x300mm bed.

T-Slot C&D-Bot Customizations

Hi. Thanks for reply. I am remixing all part for full tslot

If all your rails will be T-Slot, what will you use in place of the Mini V Wheels?

I have seen other designs using linear rail, and linear bearings, like this:




D-Bot rails
by MrBlom
T-Bot Core XY Printer without any cross belt. Next generation
by T-Bot
Dual CoreXY setup that uses LME12UU and 12mm shafts

How tight is the v-slot supposed to fit in the H-bar ends?

My H-bar ends does not sit flush when moved to outer positions. Is this a problem?

imgur.com/a/oZBzI (Picture showing the issue)

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
jez81 - in reply to trio36

I did notice one that side hit the end before the other on mine (I even printed a large plastic washer to make sure the bolt hanging off the bottom of the H bar hit the endstop). After I put the belts on, the uneven tension made the other side hit 1st.
Long story short, it should even out when you get the belts right.

Thank you. E3D is being very slow with delivery. I am waiting for stepper arrival.

Jan 30, 2017 - Modified Jan 30, 2017

Belts arrived today, all hooked up, moving and homing fine (after a little hair pulling - couldn't get y axis to home the right way..) movements look smooth and solid :)
Just waiting on the glass plate before I can do a test print. Still no luck on the heatbed heating properly. Direct connection to ramps is like the SSR. PSU is 30a, ramps has a 60mm fan and mosfets aren't even warm. Been eyeing up a new control board..

Had another question about the spacers. I've already decided to just purchase the shims from OpenBuilds, and was wondering which spacer is needed? OpenBuilds has two lengths; 1/8" and 1/4", which would work?


Jan 30, 2017 - Modified Jan 30, 2017
C7_Vette - in reply to anthonyburton

I used these spacers which are the exact size called for in the plans.

Aluminum Spacer 8mm OD x 5.1mm ID x 7mm Long

I attempted printing the spacers myself but the older i3 just couldn't get it clean enough consistently over all of the spacers needed. I tried some from OpenBuilds first with the needed shims to get the total length as close to exactly 7mm as possible and it was close but not a perfect fit. After finding the ones from Aluminumspacers.com I ordered these and since I could get the exact size needed no shims were needed. These worked perfectly.

Awesome, I'll be ordering those. Thanks for the link!

I think they are 7mm, so 1/4inch

The spacers are easy to print. The remixed ones are easier to install - the originals are a bit tight on the thread.

Awesome, thank you for the quick reply. Side note, I was the one on Reddit that was printing Gold parts for the D-Bot. Thanks again!

can we see pics or link to gold??

I haven't actually assembled anything yet. I haven't even bought the aluminum. All the pics I have are the parts being printed.

Decided to go ahead with the pcb bed but I'm a little worried about the wiring as I'm not familiar with solid state relays. In the electrical diagram it shows the negative wire to pad 1 and the positive wire to pad 3+4. My bed says 12v on 1 and negative on 3+4. Do they need to be reversed for the SSR or is you bed just different?

I attempted the 12v DC powered bed approach which resulted in massive frustration for a bed this size. I found that if you plan to print with ABS (which is what I primarily use for more strength with parts that will have any stress on them) a 12v DC will not work sufficiently. Even with the SSR-40DD and a dedicated second power supply it took forever to reach 100ºC and could never reach 110ºC even after an hour. It also had massive issues maintaining anything over 75ºC stable. Everyone has their own desires based on what they plan on building, so if one is planning to use only low temp filaments like PLA then it may be fine.

But I would highly recommend using a AC powered silicone pad from Keenovo with an aluminum bed. It heats up to 110ºC in half the time it takes the Hot End to get to 230ºC. Literally waiting longer on the Hot End to heat up rather than the Heat Bed. The temperature has no fluctuation. It stays at set point perfectly. You would then use the SSR-25DA and follow the wiring shown in the appendix at the end of the build guide.This setup also doesn't present the issue of over heating of the SSR. My AC SSR never gets overheated, even after a 24 print. It will be more expensive for the silicone pad and aluminum bed over the standard PCB but is well worth the expenses and their warranty is very good if you would need to use it. Use a safe ground with AC power and you will be fine.

Funny you should post this. I wired up my heatbed today and tried it out. It took forever to heat up and only made it to 51 degrees...I use PLA and PETG so I don't need to get to 100, but only 51 max is pretty pathetic. I use a wanhao i3 that whilst it has a smaller bed, it can reach 100 degrees in a couple mins. That is 12v also.

I had issues with my bed hitting 40ish to 50ish in forever. Per Spauda, I hooked the bed directly to the powersupply (bypassing the relay) and it hit 100 and above in about 3 minutes. Relay was my problem. I changed out to mosfet

Heated beds are just big resistors with no polarity unless the bed in question has a built in led or something extra.

Thanks for the reply. It's a basic pcb only

Printed all my parts in Pla not at arround 50-70 infill on stuff that needed lots of screws, I will see how it goes

I modified the ramps for 70mm fan

Getting so close to finished, pretty excited now.. firmware and wiring all done and working properly, I pretty much just need my belts to arrive. (It's been 4 weeks since I ordered them now, I actually reordered some from in my country I'm that keen) Re ordered another heatbed too as I accidentally ordered a "pcb" heatbed instead of an aluminium one. The pcb bed is so warped it's ridiculous..
Thought I would have plenty of time for the gear to arrive but such great instructions made the build too quick and easy that the hardest part is waiting!

Pcb beds are almost always warped, thats why you clamp glass to it. Thats what i do

I put tape, then some glue and it works ok, sometimes a corner warp's but i think its ok. the warped part is really minor

I recently found this build and I am very impressed with it. So I started printing parts today. I have a e3d titan on want to use but in a bowden config not direct drive. Has anyone made up a mount for this printer to use the e3d titan?

I thought I saw one in the remixes, there are 101 remixes

You are right I did not see that the first time I looked.(Sorry) Thank you for the response. Can't wait to get this going. Great design.

Many people have asked this, as a NOOB I want to ask it too.

The excellent build guide says:

  • 20x40mm V-slot Railing pieces needed:
    (4) at 520mm - A, B, C, D
    (1) at 463mm - G
    (1) at 488mm - R
    (1) at 448mm - Q
    (2) at 333mm - E, F
    (2) at 313mm - O, P
  • 20x20mm V-slot Railing pieces needed:
    (3) at 463mm - L, M, N
    (1) at 503mm - K
    (2) at 313mm - H, J

My question is: default build dimension is 300x200x325. What changes do I have to make to the above listing in order for a 300x300x325?

I would like a more explicit answer than just "make the shorter length 100mm longer". I don't want to find out after ordering parts
that I got my maths wrong.


the dimensions you need are in the appendix at the end of the build guide

Can I use the c-bot calculator to calculate the beam lengths?


So I just finished building this wonderful piece of equipment. Spauda01 did a fantastic job with the instructions. I have been have firmware issues but finally got everything moving in the correct directions. One problem that I had on my first print (20mm cube) is that it printed at about 10mm. Second problem is that it printed not centered on build plate. It printed 52mm left of center and 25 mm aft of center.Third problem happened when it moved to a different position to complete the top layers. Any insight into these problems would be greatly appreciated.

Did you put three jumpers under each stepper driver

Yes I have all 3 jumpers under all of the drivers. but it is still trying to print a 10mm cube instead of 20. I just had a failed attempt again. Im thinking my steps need tweaking. and I am still offet from center. Thanks for your response.

Comments deleted.
Jan 23, 2017 - Modified Jan 23, 2017
bhorn - in reply to Cantaris

Could be two things:
1) Your Belt/Pully-Combination is different.
2) You are using 0.9° per Step Motors instead of Spauda who's BOM lists 1.8° per Step.

I think 2) is more likely because you got an exact 1/2-Sized Object.
If your Belt/Pully-Combination is exaclty like Spaudas and your Motors do 0.9° per step than 1.8° you can just double your steps/mm inside the firmware.
Have a look here:

Example: I got a 20 Tooth Pully with an GT2 Belt. My Steppers do 0.9°/Step and my drivers are set to 1/16 Microsteps:
((360/0.9)16) / (220) = 160 steps/mm

So I would have to adjust ({X,Y,Z,E1})
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,400,138.4336}
DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,800,276.8672} // doubled Z and E (1.8°/step to 0.9°/step)

bhorn Thank you for the reply. So I double checked the ebay venders listing and they are listed as 1.8 degree stepper motors so I went to the Minebea website and pulled the specs for the 17PM-K402-P4V and they are indeed 1.8. So another bit of info. I tried to print 20mm cube and it came out at 10mm. So I downloaded a 10mm calibration cube with an eyelet on it. I doubled the size of it in simplify3d and it looks like it tried to print at 20mm but it got to about the 3rd layer then shifted about a 1/4inch so I killed the print.

Jan 22, 2017 - Modified Jan 22, 2017

Has anyone compiled this with the latest version of Marlin (1.1.0-RC8)? For some reason only the Y motor out of the XY combo is working. Also the endstops are powered up but don't seem to be stopping movement, not sure if it's related.

I am also looking for the samething.

I've uploaded the Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 configuration that I am using as a remix, so far it's working great.

Thank you very much!!!

Motor issue seems more hardware or wiring related than firmware

Jan 21, 2017 - Modified Jan 21, 2017

HEAVY PROPS to you and to @CFENIAK for all the work that went into this.

Simply stunning. All the way around

I've built several large format cartesian printers and was interested in building a CoreXY machine that I could use to print smaller parts faster and one that would fit within a sensible sized enclosure. I was hesitant to commit to a whole CoreXY DIY machine off of thingiverse until I saw the c-bot and then your D-Bot.

I went through the BOM and updated a few links and prices to suit my tastes.(i.e. Black v-slot vs Silver) and ordered all parts. Surprisingly, I have accumulated enough extra steppers, ramps boards, megas, , thermistors, power supplies, hotends, etc, that this build per your spec will only cost $340 usd. :-) Mostly hardware and frame.

The BOM is very complete and comprehensive and 99% of the links still work. :-) - Thank you!

I read the build guide (dated Dec 2016) and it is extremely thorough. Did it really take a year to put that together? I wouldn't be surprised. You published the D-BOT on Thingiverse 9/2015 and the build guide is dated Dec 2016. All of your diagrams in the build guide and the separate wiring diagrams are top notch/first rate and blow the doors off of a professional kit I purchased (the printer works extremely well though). It was the thoroughness of the build guide and other documentation that convinced me the D-Bot was the way to go.

I'm going to start printing the parts asap and will post the complete build in a month or so when it is ready. My other two printers have 18x18x18" print volumes and they work great but the enclosures for them would be way to big to contain the moving bed and about 50% of the time I don't need a bed that size. So from an energy perspective, it will be a good savings too as I won't be cranking out approx 30A to keep the big bed heated when printing PETG or ABS. And adding an enclosure to the D-Bot seems very straightforward.

Thanks again for this awesome addition to the community!

Just fired my one up today. Really a nice printer. Thank you very much for sharing.

Hey spauda, can you point me the location in-code where I set the amount of teeth that my pulleys have? If I've counted right, I got 18 Teeth, not 16 Teeth like these in your BOM. Thanks!

you have to adjust your x and y-steps.

Just finished a d bot build and am working through the kinks. My main problem is that when I home the Y axis and it hits the endstop, the X axis bounces around horribly. I can home the x and z without problem. Has anyone encountered this before and what can I look at to fix it? I am running a ramps 1.4 with marlin firmware from thingiverse..

I just finished building mine and had the same problem that I have been fighting for a couple of days. What worked for me was to connect the Y endstop to the Ymax on the RAMPS 1.4 not the YMIN. I just printed out a 20mm cube (first print) and have to do some tweeking in the marlin fimware. My cube came out about 10mm. Hope this works for you.

That's how it is on the wiring diagram

Thank you so much. Worked like a charm. Now for some test prints

double check all of your endstop wiring, especially where it connects on the ramps board

Jan 19, 2017 - Modified Jan 19, 2017

I am planing on making this, but had a few questions.

(1) What V-slot extrusion can be replaced with 20x40 extrusion, I have some extra 20x40 extrusion from other projects and wanted to use it, it looks like the V-slot extrusion with the label (O), (P), (Q), and (G) and also maybe (C) and (D) if you don't go to the larger 300x300mm heat bead can be substituted with 20x40 extrusion, is this correct, and what about the GT2 belt traveling inside of the V-slot extrusion called (G) will the GT2 belt still work correctly when the V-slot is replaced with 20x40 extrusion?

(2) How quickly is the 200x300mm heat bed heating up at 12v, also I am thinking about going to a 24v 300x300mm heat bed and looking for a cheap but good heat bed or heat bed kit, any recommendations that are in the USA?

(3) I am thinking about using a E3D Titan extruder with a E3D V6 hot end in a direct drive configuration, or should I use a Bowden extruder with the E3D V6 hot end, and what about using the E3D volcano parts to upgrade the E3D V6, I am looking for speed not fine details, I just want a working part fast, would the E3D volcano setup work well with this printer, the kind of stuff I print is more like project boxes, brackets, knobs and general use parts.

(4) Is there a noticeable improvement when anti-backlash nuts with this 3D printer?

I had some more questions but I cant think of them right now, thanks.

(Edited to correct mistakes)

I found this :

T-Slot C&D-Bot Customizations https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413424

And it seems to allow for using T-Slot extrusion for extrusion that does not require wheels, that means I can use some of my 20x40 extrusion that I already have.

T-Slot C&D-Bot Customizations

Hello, I own an anet a8 and would like to build a printer from scratch. I saw your DIY printer and it had detailed instructions and actual links to the products, kudos to you for that. I was wondering before I order the components, what is the best and biggest heated bed for this set-up? In the instructions it mentions that you should consider an alternative if you plan to print in ABS. Also I would be interested to know if anyone tried to build an enclosure for the machine.

Hi, where are the instructions and the BOM ? Thank you !

Jan 17, 2017 - Modified Jan 17, 2017

Thanks a lot for your work!
I want to build this printer, but i have this doubts:
1) Can i use this profile from Motedis vs v-slot?
2) Can i use the Ball Screw SFU1605 L400mm Ballscrew With SFU1605 Single Ballnut Tool for CNC vs 400mm T8 Lead Screw 8mm? For a better print?
Thanks a lot!

  1. No

  2. Probably unnecessary

that version of the Arduino IDE has been used to compile the firmware?

Jan 14, 2017 - Modified Jan 14, 2017

I'm having a strange problem.

When I print an object it prints rotated 90 degrees and mirrored.
If you look at the picture here: http://i.imgur.com/2SFZG2S.png
The image on the left is how it's supposed to print, and the image on the right is what I get.
The dot is the home position relative to the print for both.

Iv'e tried reversing the x and/or y cables, inverting the directions, and even messed with the print shape layo8ut in Repetier-host.
Nothing helps.

What in the world am I doing wrong?

Here's my Configuration.h: http://textuploader.com/ddvyl

EDIT: I made a larger than standard printer and changed a few things. Like optical endstops, a direct drive extruder, and I have the Z axis cables plugged in oriented the same way as the X and Y.

I also own a Prusa i3 so these instructions make sense, but with the CoreXY I'm not understanding. If I flip the connector for one motor then it thinks home is the wrong direction. Do I just flip one motor and then change #define X(or Y)_HOME_DIR -1 to 1?

I also own a Prusa i3 so these instructions make sense, but with the CoreXY I'm not understanding. If I flip the connector for one motor then it thinks home is the wrong direction. Do I just flip one motor and then change #define X(or Y)_HOME_DIR -1 to 1?

Please can someone help. when i start a print everything starts off fine. Axis all home fine and extruder and bed heat up fine too. As soon as the print actually starts its as if the x and y motors somehow pull against each other causing the motor to miss steps with a horrible clicking sound. This causes my printer to position the print to the back left of my bed right near the homing position. also i cannot print faster than 50% or else the motors do the same. I am so lost right now. all mechanics are sound and move smoothly. Please help

Tried tuning stepper drivers?

it was a damaged motor. thanx jez81

@spauda01 I think I've figured out most of my problems...unfortunately. I ordered Misumi extrusions, not realizing that they aren't the same as openbuilds? I'm really hoping there's some way to adapt this design to work with Misumi...any ideas?

I have begun to print this out and ordered my extrusion. Thank you for doing such a great job organizing this project. The files, bom, and instructions are all INCREDIBLY clear and concise. Big ups to you. Thanks a million!

Jan 13, 2017 - Modified Jan 13, 2017

please can someone help, im using repitier / slic3r, and my prints wont print in the center. instead they print in back left corner (home position). also my prints look terrible. it is as if my printer is binding causing all prints layers to be off.in other words slanted prints. i have setup everything as the build guide stated. i only changed step per unit as i am using 1.8 degree motors.and 3mm filament. this is driving me crazy and i dont know what to do. i have bed shape setup correctly in slic3r and RH. how can i fix this. i have tried centering object in RH but doesnt work. also with regard to the slanted prints. all pulleys are tightly mounted on to motors and belts are tensioned

I recently used some Thread Rolling screws. It basicly tapped aluminum bars for me
My project was building a chassis (am14u3)for Frc

It worked Really good. but it doesnt seam like something i would like to screw in and un screw it alot as it would ruin the threads. then you would need bigger size

And to cut the bars for the project(chassis) we used a sawzall, as long as you have the correct saw, messure good and outline where your cutting it should be fine. then dremel the rough spots

basicly what im saying is useing sawzall and auto tap screws would be a great idea

Anyone else print in PETG and have an X Carriage that's extremely difficult to move on the gantry? Was really hard to get on the rail at all, and think I may have nicked the wheels trying to do it, but now with it on, the carriage takes a lot of force to move.

I have mine all up and running except the heated bed. When i turn it on the SSR doesnt switch, it looks like the board isnt sending any voltage to it. Any idea where to look?

no led on the ssr turning on?
read the voltage at D8 + and - with a multimeter when you command the bed on
disconnect the ssr and hook up a 12v fan to D8 then tell the bed to turn on and see if the fan turns on

I figured it out. I didnt have the jumper from the 5A to 11A power on the board.

I need to re install marlin but when i click on the D-BOT Marlin link in the build guide i am taken to a page that says "end of the thingiverse"?
where can i find the file i need ? Thanks,

Its included with all the other thing files. It's called D-BOT_Marlin.zip. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065/#files

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Just finished building the z carriage, and the arms that hold the build plate aren't parallel, they're angled toward each other. Is this something I should be concerned about, or will the lead screws and build plate itself correct this?

I'm also thinking about mounting the aluminum plate I bought directly to the bed supports, without the springs, as I plan to use a proximity sensor for auto leveling. Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Loosen the bolts that hole the arms, line them up and retighten.

Don't bolt your bed right to the arms you would conduct heat right into the rails

Anyone have the measurements from pages 21 and 24 in the build guide for a 300x300 bed? The guide says the zmotors will need to be moved toward the center of gravity, but doesn't say roughly where that is.

Jan 10, 2017 - Modified Jan 10, 2017
spauda01 - in reply to csader

Thats because I've never made a 300x300 printer. If you haven't installed the bed yet, place the fully assembled Z platform on some kind of vertical ledge and balance it like a seesaw to manually find a spot pretty close to the center of mass.

Thanks @spauda01, I'll do that. Figured someone probably has so was more asking anyone, rather than you specifically. :)

Can you tell your measures? I have the same situation

Can you tell your measures? I have the same situation

So for end caps how many do we need

looks like 2 for bed
the 20x40 end cap slot
Please tell me fast, going to print and i want to print all endcaps in on go


I've got a problem making the SSR work properly.

When the printer reach the targeted temperature and the SSR led begin to blink the printer crash and reboot.
I'm using a standard 12v 500w computer power supply.

any ideas ??

your using computer to power the printer. or atx psu to power bed
1 Did you check wirings
2 might be the watts(if the atx psu is powring the whole printer)

all i can say as I don't have a atx on my printer im going to use the one he used

i'm using the computer supply for both.
1 yep wiring has been checked.
2 But this power supply is a 500w. It is more than enough isn't it ?

I am thinking about a kind of security. Is it possible that the psu make a security reboot when asked for a lot of juice and then nothing and then lot of jiuce...

Thanks for your help Mikelthebeast :)

Hey there, can anyone tell me the precise measures of the Mini V-Wheels? Its hard to order them in Germany. I'd like to do my own ones but I dont know the exact measures.

Would be great if anyone of u can measure it for me

Thanks :)

Hi, you can find wheel details on the openbuild website see link below:

Best Regards

Jan 9, 2017 - Modified Jan 9, 2017

Hey there, can anyone tell me the precise measures of the Mini V-Wheels? Its hard to order them in Germany. I'd like to do my own ones but I dont know the exact measures.

Would be great if anyone of u can measure it for me

Thanks :)

------- EDIT---

I found the measurings on their Website :D thanks anyway

This is me trying to move my X axis left then right. You can see it sometimes moved up and down the Y axis. I've been assembling and disassembling this over and over. I was able to get it printing just diagonally but then i disassembled it

Take the belt off one of the motors and use it to tune each stepper driver. Adjust the tiny pot on the stepper driver until the motor turns well and it's the most quiet. I do this by putting a tiny screwdriver in the pot, then telling whatever axis the stepper is plugged into to move a long ways and spin the pot until the motor juuuust stops moving, then reverse direction on the pot until it's moving again. Then set the tool down and tell the motor to move a long ways again and grab the pully on the motor and give it some resistance. It should not be super easy to stop the motor from spinning, within reason.
Then move the cable down to the next axis and repeat. Once all the drivers are tuned hook everything back up like normal.

If you notice the motor changing directions as you tune it keep fiddling. You might be too close to the max of the pot, or are turning it too fast which seems to sometimes make the motor reverse.
Put the belt back, and do another test.
Make sure all your motors have the same color wire at the top on the RAMPS board. If, say, you have the X and Y cables opposite each other it will kinda work but act strange. So for example I have the blue lead UP on every cable on the RAMS headers.

Hope this helps!

Hi Amadon. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage on the potentiometers like the instructional youtube video linked in the d-bot build guide. I believe mine are about 0.55 and I haven't had time yet at home to mess with it but I will try to use your method. I don't have a ceramic screwdriver, mine broke but in the past, I mainly used a regular screwdriver but very carefully to not touch anything else. I'll be looking for another ceramic screwdriver.

Started building today and it's going great. Need to wait for more parts to arrive but just finished putting in the lead screws.
Only issue I had so far was I bought the low profile m5 screws from open builds and the head on them was too big to fit in the countersunk holes. Easy enough fix (heated up the head of an m6 screw and pushed it in) but you could probably open those up slightly as I'm sure other people will buy those screws.
Ps. -
-The T nuts from banggood are are bargain and work awesome.
-Used a hacksaw with a 32t blade to cut the vslot. Used a mitre box to keep my cuts straight. Clean, straight, barely any burrs at all, no need for an extravagant saw.

About to make this and was curious about one thing, the lead screws are not secured at the top, which may induce wobble from my previous experience. Do you think it wold make sense to add another part (another 20x20 v-slot or just some rails with printed lead screw holders with bearings) for smooth and straight operation even at high speeds?

You never, I repeat NEVER want to constrain the top of leadscrews. Reason is if there is any bend in the screw the wobble from it will be greatest at the center. If you keep the top free the bed and motor shaft stay pretty much stationary and the wobble is sent to the freely spinning top of the leadscrew.
If you capture the top of the leadscrew you actually make wobble worse.

This is 100% correct. Some may think the bed is totally stable in the horizontal direction, but that is not the case. There is a small amount of flex even with correct tension on the V-wheels and it absolutely can be deflected.
Unfortunately, a lot of commercial 3D printer designers out there don't even seem to appreciate the fact that no frame and Z-axis guide is perfectly rigid, and they are often plagued with intermittent Z-wobble issues. Not every machine has a noticeable problem because run-out in the leadscrews varies. So yes, the top of the leadscrews should always be left floating.
Flexible couplers are also a problem spot because they are difficult to get perfectly aligned. Even if perfectly aligned at the factory, some users tend to mess them up and can't figure out why their printer suddenly prints like crap.
I chose to eliminate them in my build and totally designed the Z axis leadscrew setup to run on bearings with a centrally located single stepper and endless belt. It works flawlessly.

The bed is stable horizontally because the bed is guided by the wheels on the Z legs, the lead screws only control vertical direction. Just look at the example prints made and there are no major quality issues

About to make this and was curious about one thing, the lead screws are not secured at the top, which may induce wobble from my previous experience. Do you think it wold make sense to add another part (another 20x20 v-slot or just some rails with printed lead screw holders with bearings) for smooth and straight operation even at high speeds?

use zip tie to hold t he tube to the holder

Comments deleted.

What concerns are there with the quality of the rail cuts? Do they just need to be level/structurally sound enough to insert the m5 bolts, or am I missing something? I ask because I've got a hacksaw that seems to do the job. Just want to know if I'm missing any considerations before I actually start cutting parts I'll need.

Straight square clean cuts make the whole thing go together easier, if you cuts are crooked or off you could probably compensate by leaving gaps at the ends of some rails which is just a hastle. In the end just make sure the whole frame is square

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Jan 5, 2017 - Modified Jan 5, 2017

So past the few weeks, I can't smoothly get the extruder to smoothly on the X/Y rails. I'm still trying to understand how Core XYs work with both motors moving at the same time but I am still having issues with the movement. If I hit Left on the X axis, sometimes it moves Left, sometimes it moves Down on the Y axis. Same with the opposite direction, if I hit Right on the X, it moves Right or Up on the Y axis. I think it's because my dimensions are off a bit in each corner because of my bad cutting of the extrusions. Anyone have these issues before? I am also checking the spacing on the H-bars since my dimensions were slightly off. Will be looking at the guide a bit more in-depth today.

edit: just saw your response to a previous comment - http://corexy.com/theory.html
edit: after reading that website, I'm assuming at certain positions, I am getting physical resistance on one of the motors/pulleys so that only 1 motor is doing most of the pulling so it'll jerk to whichever axis has less resistance if I am understanding correctly. Will put up a video when I get home.

Make sure all of your stepper drivers are well tuned. I had the same problem and that was the cause.

check your Print head for clearance on the gantry... I had this same issue and it was because the belt mounting screws were pushing the nuts through the back of the abs and pinching the gantry.

check your Print head for clearance on the gantry... I had this same issue and it was because the belt mounting screws were pushing the nuts through the back of the abs and pinching the gantry.

Although I did have that issue momentarily and it even left scratch marks on the aluminum, the spacers solved that issue. I had tested with and without the spacers. I figured, since my aluminum extrusions were not cut well since I sawed them kind of at an angle, they are off a few millimeters and taking off some spacers would give the wheel some space to move around. I have moved everything around so things are a bit more even which is progress since the extruder can move around, just not always in the direction I tell it to

Jan 4, 2017 - Modified Jan 4, 2017


Openbuilds seems to be sold out of most v-slot rails...where are folks getting theirs?

got mine off ebay

Comments deleted.

would a pre tapped version of the v-slot rail work?

Rails are pre tapped on each side (it was ok for me). If you buy a particular size, then can tappe them for you ...

hi what are these parts best made from pla?

great work

Best Made from PETG or ABS (if you can avoid it from warping). PLA will eventually crack due to stress, but I hear raptor PLA is a lot more resilient.

Comments deleted.

hi what are these parts best made from pla?

great work

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?


(Great build by the way)

The Sainsmart 2 in 1 should be the same as ramps-arduino. But I could be wrong.

You might need to set your motherboard type in the firmware

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?


(Great build by the way)

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?


(Great build by the way)

Anybody wire the heat bed directly into D8 on ramps and then connect to a computer PSU (versus using solid state relay, 12V power supply, line voltage power jack)? I have a few extra 750W+ PSUs and was hoping to do this setup.

The limitation is not hte power supply, its is the transistor on the ramps board, that is why a ssr is used. you can still use an atx psu

thanks for the response spauda. just to clarify, if an atx psu is used you recommend still using the SSR?

It takes decades to heat up the bed without the SSR. Just IMHO.

Amazing effort spauda01. Some of the best instructions I've ever seen, the build list, the pics, everything is in such great detail and so clear. Better than an expensive commercial kit. Can't wait for my parts to arrive!

First I want to say thank you for being so thourogh with your build instructions. I built my printer using your design only changing a few things mainly size (300x300). After getting everything put together I have found a bit of a problem. My print bed teeter tooters when the Z motors move the bed up and down (which makes it impossible to level). I have tried adjusting the Z motors forward and back to prevent this from happening, with not luck. I am beginning to think the 4 wheeled Z guides are the issue because they don't all sit snuggly on the V slot. Is there anything you can tell me that may help. Thank You

You may want to transition to a 3 leadscrew setup instead. Much more stable. If you look through the remixes you'll see the Jbot uses something to that effect.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

I must be not understanding something with how the X and Y axis work. So do the two motors in the front work together to move the axis? Because when one moves so does the other. They basically counteract each other, or work together. I don't know. I guess I'm not understanding the belt routing and how the X and Y motors work.
Anybody have some insight to make this click in my head?

Dec 30, 2016 - Modified Dec 30, 2016
Amadon - in reply to spauda01

Ahh! Thanks! So in Marlin there must be an option to enable this I take it? I used the included firmware with a few tweaks. Like I used optical endstops instead. And made it bigger.

I must be not understanding something with how the X and Y axis work. So do the two motors in the front work together to move the axis? Because when one moves so does the other. They basically counteract each other, or work together. I don't know. I guess I'm not understanding the belt routing and how the X and Y motors work.
Anybody have some insight to make this click in my head?

Comments deleted.

Would getting an integrated lead screw stepper motor be worthwhile? Or is there no significant difference between the integrated lead screw stepper motor and the conventional coupling method?

no advantage

what a beautiful printer, did you make it your self?

Would anything special need to be done in order to make the bed 300x300 as far and making sure its still solid? I have been looking at beds and it seems this would work out pretty well if its possible with limited mods.


I don't think so. I am planning to make 400x400 with slicon 220v bed heater.

I see the black flexi conduit pipe is held in with printed holders

but i dont see those holders in the thing files list... are this an add on that came later?

i would for sure love to have it

Its on the front page along with the other "Optional Components": http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213

V-Slot Tubing Clip
Comments deleted.

Is there mod for motor to be mounted on top of extruder?

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

maby easy question, would ading weight to extruder affect how the belts more and stuff?

Yes, The more weight on the extruder, the more stress on the motion portion of the printer. If you have a heavier weight extruder moving at the same speed as a lighter extruder, it is going to take more force to stop the heavier extruder and change directions. This leads to shifting in the print since the belts are ever so slightly elastic.

What this means, is if you have a a direct drive extruder, you will have to run a much slower speed in order to avoid shifting in your prints in comparison to the original bowden style extruder/hot end setup.

The only close exception to this is the titan extruder with a slim pancake stepper..... pancake steppers weigh a lot less, making them a viable option for those who really want direct drive, without the direct drive speeds...... look at Ultimakers and Makerbots. Ultimaker is a bowden style CoreXY printer and prints much faster than a makerbot which is H gantry setup with direct drive.

Yes, The more weight on the extruder, the more stress on the motion portion of the printer. If you have a heavier weight extruder moving at the same speed as a lighter extruder, it is going to take more force to stop the heavier extruder and change directions. This leads to shifting in the print since the belts are ever so slightly elastic.

What this means, is if you have a a direct drive extruder, you will have to run a much slower speed in order to avoid shifting in your prints in comparison to the original bowden style extruder/hot end setup.

The only close exception to this is the titan extruder with a slim pancake stepper..... pancake steppers weigh a lot less, making them a viable option for those who really want direct drive, without the direct drive speeds...... look at Ultimakers and Makerbots. Ultimaker is a bowden style CoreXY printer and prints much faster than a makerbot which is H gantry setup with direct drive.

Switching the extruder to direct drive should only effect properties related to acceleration, so overall slower speeds. But you'd get the benefit of less hysteresis, so easier to tune retractions.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Hello are any of the parts in the attached STL files optional? I believe the ones listed here are required, but wanted to confirm. I am ordering from 3D Hubs and want to minimize the amount of pieces I absolutely need printed from there, I'll just print all the optional pieces once I get it up and running. Thanks.

You can buy these for .20 cents, I believe people had problems with 3d printed ones so this may help

now you wont have to buy 3d printed bearing shim (20 of them)

Im confused, You say in BOM to buy Pla because it prints all parts depending on infill and shells.

But in your build guide it says to use abs because Pla cracks, Cant we just reinforce the Pla printed parts with Glue or something?

Something i have tried in Prints is to use clear nail strengthener, make the weak parts of my prints strong (alot stronger, usualy 2 coatings)

Somewhere in the comments spauda01 mentions that his was printed with PLA. He has had a few cracks but it hasn't affected anything. He, and others, recommend PETG for the best performance. Since my current printer can't print PETG (ptfe hotend)
:( I have been printing the parts in PLA with 100% infill. If I feel the parts aren't sufficient, I will reprint with PETG after my DBOT is up and running.

Can you tell me how much Kg or G you used to print in 100% infill, and how manny shells.

Want to get an idea of how manny Kg fillament i will need to buy

Im a bit over halfway through printing the parts (really taking my time and printing slow) and Im about 3/4 way through a spool. I had 1 major fail that probably took up 150-200 grams of filament (maybe more)... There is no way I'm going to be able to complete this project with 1 spool. Definitely can complete this with 1.5 kg of filament.

Started Printing today, For somethings like Fan duct, power switch holder, and power supply clamp, ect. Im doing lower infilland shells.

Only going to do 100% infill and more shells on motor mounts, the extruder parts ect.

Save me some fillament and less time to print

PTFE is good up till 260C. Almost all brands of PETG print below 260. I use eSun primarily and typically print at 230C.

Just FYI

Comments deleted.
Dec 15, 2016 - Modified Dec 15, 2016

Have somebody tried to use Solid V Wheels instead of Mini V Wheel (bigger ones)?
(I know that will have to redesign carriages, just can't get mini wheels in my location)
Will bigger wheels have any weak points?

Make sure there the right size

Modified V-slot wheels!
Dec 19, 2016 - Modified Dec 19, 2016
mikelthebeast - in reply to _MSA_

Dont think anyone has anything else to say other than 3d print your own

z motors do i do 0.55 for the 2 at the bottom, or do i double it for 2 motors???

build guide page 54

Did you use solid wire.
can i use solid wire for everything except the extruder and heated bed

no solid wire

For some reason when I home X the endstop does not actually stop motion and the print head tries to keep going. When I check it using M119 it shows as triggering. When pressed. Has anyone else had this issue?

double check wiring

Check! I had checked the wiring many times but apparently the 5th time was the charm. The endstops are all good to go. Now however the snowball keeps rolling, my hotend does not want to heat up. There are 12V going in. I have checked all the wiring over many times. Is there something besides the heating element I should check before I order a new heating element?

Thanks spauda01 to not only the time putting all of this together but to actively helping everyone one here troubleshoot. It is greatly appreciated!!

Comments deleted.

What heated bed would be recommended right now for printing ABS?

Do i connect the pins under motor control boards
Like in page 4 pins

if you are talking about JUMPERS (3) under each STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER, yes. In that guide, it says it's a must because anything less would not be precise enough. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Comments deleted.
Dec 12, 2016 - Modified Dec 12, 2016

Anyone interested in creating a Google Group for this printer? I feel like a lot of pit falls and issues are just getting buried away in the insane amounts of comments. With a group you could at least search for issues and relevant data.

The Wanaho Printer group is fantastic. Maybe we can create something similar. I haven't actually build this printer yet but I have already started accumulating parts for the build.
...just a thought.

SideNote: spauda01, you did a F-ing amazing job on this build guide and BOM!! Thanks so much.

This would be good idea, But the owner of the printer (spauda01) would have to be owner of the group or something, and add the link in his discription. something like dbot fourms would be good, hate searching for answers here

There is a Facebook group setup as well

Comments deleted.


I read the Build Guide carefully multiple times.
One thing that I don't really get yet is the black bowden bowden outlet connector shown on page 53.
This part is neither listed on the BOM, nor in extruder section in the hardware quanitites (only parts for the springloaded flange).
Please clarify :)

comes with hot end

Mine came with the small black retaining ring only, not like that on the picture on page 53.
The black part I'm talking about is on the extruder outlet (something like a black nut + 2 black rings), not on the hotend side

you have to buy the hotend with bowden kit as stated in the bom

Makes sense, I bought the universal version as I didn't need tubing and so on. Thanks for clarifying



Please Comment If I did Something Wrong also it its correct

the 3d printer should be less than $500
Even cheaper if you find a better price somewhere else.

Comment On the Spredsheet if errors Please Did this fast.

Also depends On shipping too, so find same stuff with free shipping to keep it cheap :P

In process in updating the bill of materials, ill figure out how to post it here soon

What gauge rating does the tap need to be

I saw one that says up to 10 gauge, not sure if ist enough

Comments deleted.

Okay I know that you purposely replaced the 20x40 extrusions with the 20x20 extrusions at the bottom. However, I only have 20x40 extrusions. Looking at the build I didn't see where this would affect the printed parts needed or did I miss something?

The motor mounts would be slightly affected and you'd have a few cm less printing space in Z.

Is it possible to use a BL-Touch on this printer?

How would I expand this printer to 300x300, would I just need to add 100mm to the shorter rails?

how would I expand this to 300

There's an addendum at the bottom of the build guide with the correct lengths for 300×300.

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016

Hey I have a question,

I've built my dbot and got my SSR finally. It sort of works, but my bed takes around 7 minutes to reach 60ºC.

I use a converted ATX PSU which should have enough power. There's a raspberry PI on the 5VSB lane so there's some connection there. The voltage does not drop, it stays constantly at around 11.6V. I measured the power output between the 12V lane and the heated bed and apparently it only gives around 1A, if at all.
I have a total circuit resistance from the SSR to the GND of around 1.9Ω.

Why does my power supply supply only around 1A to the heated bed? What am I doing wrong here?

Edit: just noticed, I have apparently a SSR-40DD 40A DC3-32V DC5-110V instead of DC5-60V. Can this be the culprit?

Edit2: tried connecting the bed directly to the RAMPS without the relay, still get only around 0.7A.

Edit3: tried connecting the bed directly to the 12V lane without anything, still output of only around 0.7A. So I guess it's the PSU fault? I just don't get why, though.

I used to use a converted computer power supply till the day it died on me. Then bought a decent 12v power supply and to my surprise my bed heating was noticeably much faster.

I used to use a converted computer power supply till the day it died on me. Then bought a decent 12v power supply and to my surprise my bed heating was noticeably much faster.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

maybe you did like me.... removed all the wires and only soldered in 2 wires for 12V ?

most new ATX have a single 3.3V sense wire. that one needs to be connected to 3.3V or it will not work right

you also need a 10 ohm load resistor on the 5V line - ie connect between black and a red
and a 4,7 ohm load resistor on the 3.3v line - ie connect between black and orange

both resistors should be rated at 15W with heatsinks. i have ziptied mine inside the psu to the mesh part so they have conduct some heat to the metal and some are taken by the airflow. i placted a strip of kapton tape between to keep them isolated electrical


what do you use to heat the bed? pcb? silicone heater?

what does a converted ATX psu means in your case? does it have load resistors added?

your SSR is ok it needs between 3 and 32 V on the input and can handle/switch voltages between 5 and 110 V. 40A maximum

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
darkarchon - in reply to boelle

It's just an ATX PSU with the necessary wires cut and changed so it works for a 3d printer. But I guess I just measured it wrong. I get 11.6V on the heatbed with a resistance of 1.6Ω so I guess I'll get around 7A of current on the heat bed. Measuring current somehow doesn't work properly for whatever reason.

It's a MK2a PCB heat bed btw.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

i have the same bed on a mendel90. you should get 7.5A

have you done as i just wrote with load resistors etc?

I tried adding some load on the 5V line by using multiple halogen bulbs, but it does not significantly increase the voltage on the 12V line. What kind of resistance do you have on your MK2a heat bed? With 1.6Ω I could theoretically only get around 7.5A when I have a 100% balanced 12V line. (P=V/R)


is the 3.3V Sense connected to anything?

Yes 3.3V sense is connected. The resistance of the heat bed is just too high from my basic understanding of electronics.

yeah.... should be far less

let me messure my bed

but you will still need the load resistors to make the psu work right. if they are not there there is the risk that is limits the current and voltage

I get about 3.7 ohms when connected diretly to the ramps board

That's a lot though. Can you measure the bed when it's not powered on and only between the contacts on the board?

that was with no power on.

and i did take that messurement at the bed terminals.

i cant disconnet it right now.

"N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn't and blew up my Ramps 1.2 MOSFET because of a too high current. My measured resistance was 0.8 Ohm."

taken from the page: http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed

let me think what your problem could be

hmm is the bed a dual power one? some are made to run from both 24V and 12V

anyways if you connect the bed directly your numbers should be ALMOST the same... they will differ a bit

and in this case of a MK2a the SSR is not really needed

When the board is on I get around 340Ω?!

Buy the proper power supply, its only $20

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
darkarchon - in reply to spauda01

Well I measured it wrong (measured in parallel not serial). I'm actually getting around 7.4A to the heatbed, which is pretty much exactly what I would expect given 11.6V and 1.6Ω resistance. So mostly a user error here. The bed is just shit with this high resistance.

anyways the PCB should be arround 0.8 ohms not connected

i wonder why yours is double that

if i will build this i figured to have 2 Q parts and have the Z spindles half way

how much would O and P have to be extended to make it just reach fit?

tried to look if that has been asked before but with 1887 comments one would go "nuts"

EDIT: i see that people advise against this. My worries for bigger beds (over 300300) is that the weight would zag/tilt down. Lets say i go very crazy and do a 500500mm would it still just be a matter of finding center of gravity?

also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

GT2 belt should be approximately (E×2)+G+R plus corners and all the stuff, so add another 20cm or so.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

Thanks, staring at a K8200 and wondering if i should raid it for parts and start to build in the spring

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 10, 2016


Some one can help me plz? I received my motors. They are those one : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-5Pcs-3D-printer-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-Nema-17-motor-42BYGH/32310772437.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.INBUpt&detailNewVersion=&categoryId=100007155

rouge: A +
vert: Un-
jaune: B +
bleu: B-

I'm not sur about the order wiring compared to the diagram project. Can you help me plz?

Second question my cartridge cable (ed3v6) is too short. This is the same for you? This is a particular cable, can I put a classic extension without risks?

Thx =)

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 10, 2016
boelle - in reply to Jonathanmf

order should be

red 2B
blue 2A
green 1A
black 1B


cartridge cable.. is that the heater or thermistor cartridge?

Hi ! Thx for your help :)
All thoses cables. But i should not be the only one in thises case no ? They are to short if we want to root them in a proper way.

For steppers I only have :

So i must follow this order ?

The stepper will work on the right way ?

Thx again !

then you have the same colour as in the diagram


just follow the order of that diagram and you should be ok.

if stepper wires are to short just cut them half way and insert a 0.52 square mm wire to make it long enough. in this way its does not matter what colour wire you use as it will be in the middle of the wire with org. wire at each end

Thanks ! OK for steppers ;) If you planned to come visit Paris, I owe you a coffee :)

For cables, is more about heater et thermistor. Heater cable is protected by a red skin (I don't have the right name sorry). If I make it longer with a classic cable, it'll be safe?
After that, promise, I'll stop with my questions ;)

Thx again

Read all notes in the bill of materials for which wire to use and also read everything in the electrical section of the build guide


you can extend it with classic wire. 0.75 square mm should be ok

but if you can get rubber cable for kitchen stove that would be better.

what i do is going to local hardware store and get a cable with 3*1.5 square mm cable and throw away all the black outher insulation away and also i throw away the green/yellow wire and i keep the brown and blue one. in the case of the heater wires it does not matter what wire is what

it should not be this kind: http://www.bauhaus.dk/el-belysning/elinstallation/ledninger-kabler/installationskabel-3x1-5-mm2-50-meter-schneider-electric.html

that is for permanent installs inside walls etc and they have stiff single core wires

it should be more like this: http://www.bauhaus.dk/el-belysning/elinstallation/ledninger-kabler/kabelsaet-uden-jord-15-meter.html

ie a soft rubber like cable... i guess H07RN-F is what you should look for

Comments deleted.

Power supply 110v or 230v switch???????

Does it matter?????

also doesnt say in build guide Please Help
thanks whoever helps

What country are you in

US Oregon.
your Build diagram and Bill of materials Says 5A fuse
Build guide says 10A

What fuse should i use???

If you actually bothered to read the build guide you would have seen that the diagram in the build guide you are referring to is for an AC bed.



5A fuse is half that

only fit a fuse just big enough for what you need.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

"Read the build guide before ordering parts."


Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Thanks. Seems obvious now.


also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?


also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

Comments deleted.

Is screwing 3dParts to Frame Required??? OR is there another option that doesnt require that

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016


if i will build this i figured to have 2 Q parts and have the Z spindles half way

how much would O and P have to be extended to make it just reach fit?

tried to look if that has been asked before but with 1887 comments one would go "nuts"

EDIT: i see that people advise against this. My worries for bigger beds (over 300300) is that the weight would zag/tilt down. Lets say i go very crazy and do a 500500mm would it still just be a matter of finding center of gravity?

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016

I get a winding noise from the motors like an airplane is landing. Anyone know what that is? I had the potentiometer at .55 but increased it for X and Y because I was having issues with movement due to one of the pulleys rubbing against a bearing and the printed part but I was able to solve that issue but the sound still remains a bit then goes away after a bit. Btw, my Nema 17s were 6 wire, I think bipolar if that has any issues with it but I only used 4 of the wires and tested them before hand.

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to silq707

Is it only when the motors move?
How about a video?
I have no idea if your motors are right or not.

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016
silq707 - in reply to spauda01

It is only when they are not moving. When tested before putting on any belts, they did not have that sound but at the moment, it is not a big issue. I will make a video once I finish all the more important stuff like wire management since all my endstop wires, etc were a bit short. As far as changing your stepper motor drivers to TMC2100, did you have to do convert it to 24v? This video shows how a guy used a step up converter and few other things to do it. I am just curious because this will be my next project, to try to make the printer silent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdMxwpNk1KU#t=551.706898

Comments deleted.

Will there be any drilling into the aluminum frame? If so Just a drill bit Woud work or something special

also can dual extruder be supported in this build, ?

Comments deleted.
Dec 6, 2016 - Modified Dec 6, 2016

What are the external measurements of the finished build? Will it fit inside a server rack? Thanks!

Hi, I'm having some difficulty homing my printer. The motors travel in the correct direction and the end stops seem to be wired correctly, using M119 I can see the correct ones trigger.
The process at the moment when I home is - Z lowers, X homes to 0 (left hand side) and Z homes to 0.
Y homing does not happen.

Any ideas?

Are you using the marlin file from the downloads page

Dec 5, 2016 - Modified Dec 6, 2016
bananas07 - in reply to spauda01

No, RC-07. With the same edits from the one in the download page.

I have just tried the firmware from the downloads page - same deal. The only item that's different in this build is the main board. I'm using a MKS Gen 1.4

SOLVED - Didn't read the wiring diagram carefully enough. I was using Y-min instead of Y-max.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

all in the build guide

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

Comments deleted.

Hey all!
I am having an issue with my z motors. Here's a video of the problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLY4-qEaIF8.

First off they are really jittery, I have checked the voltage and they seem to be ok there. Also they only go down regardless of the direction I select, I have check all the wiring multiple times and it seems correct. I am at a loss.

Can you give a link to the motors you bought

On the dbot wiring diagram, the motor plugs are R G Y Blu. Yours need to be Blk G R Blu

Comments deleted.

I have them all in that order and that's when the z motors act strange.

Are your X and Y motors working right?

Did you put jumpers under each stepper driver?

Are all of your firmware settings the same as the default Dbot marlin file?

The X and Y motors work perfectly, I have jumpers under each driver and I am double checking the firmware now to make sure that is correct.

Swap your X and Z stepper drivers and see what it does.

WOW! I can't believe I did not try that. Thank you for your help. That driver is bad, after they are switched the Z motors work perfectly and the X motor has the issues.

Most ramps kits come with 5 stepper drivers, do you have a spare?

I do, that one appears to be a total dud because now my x motor is non responsive. I am going to switch the new driver over to y and make sure it is dead before I order new ones.

Why do you need new ones? dont you have a spare driver?

I do but when I replaced the jittery driver with my spare the motor that the spare driver is on is completely non responsive. I tested my spare on both the X and Y motor which become non responsive respectively which leads me to assume that driver is totally dead.

I still don't understand. Do you have one bad driver or are you killing them as you move them around? In that case something might be wrong with your ramps board or wiring

So the driver (Driver 1) I originally had on my Z motors was jittery. This was confirmed when I switched it with the driver on the X motor. After this switch the Z motors ran perfectly and the X motor now exhibited the jittery behavior that the Z motors had been.

I then replaced Driver 1 with my spare driver (Driver 2), (this is on the x motor, I didn't switch back to Z after the initial swap to test Driver 1) and upon making this switch the X motor does nothing. I switched Driver 2 to the Y motor to confirm and after this switch the X motor responds and the Y motor does not respond.

My conclusion is that Driver 1 has partially functionality but Driver 2 has zero functionality.

I understand. Are you observing any esd handling practices

Also your ramps board should of been totally powered off when changing drivers.

I am and I make sure it is powered off before I change anything.

Comments deleted.
Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016


I'm having an issue with the SSR (dc) and the heatbed. I set the printer on 60°C but it only reach 43°C. I check with the multimeter on each terminals of the heatbed and it shows 6.50 V. Also my SSR is really really hot at the point that i could easily cook an egg on it !

Any suggestions ?

bypass wires on terminal 1 and 2 of the ssr to power the bed directly temporarily from the power supply to verify the psu can supply enough juice.

Did you bolt the ssr to the aluminum frame?

Ok done. i have reached 85°. I use a a computer 500w power supply.

Yes SSR is bolted to the aluminum 2020 vslot.

measure resistance between ssr terminals 1 and 2 when terminals 3 and 4 are being controlled by the ramps, then try again when terminals 3 and 4 are powered directly from the 12v psu (watch polarity)

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

Ok i think i know where you are digging.
Yes you are right, my heatbed cable have a too high resistance.
I put some bigger cable and it works perfectly. The heatbed heat much faster and the SSR is colder now.

Thanks for your help Spauda, and thanks for all your work and advice the printer :)

What size wire were you using?

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

2m awg17

amazing work !!!
But could u provide the .STEP files ???
Would like to make a complete assembly.

Don't have any

Oh thats a pitty!
Maybe some other CAD-formats?

would do me a big favour !

Are there any significant considerations that need to be made when expanding this to 300x300 besides what is listed in the appendix? Will the z axis motors still be sufficient in quantity and power?

Depends how heavy your bed is. If youre just using a 300x300 pcb heater with regular glass its fine. If you use a giant slab of aluminum for a bed it probably wont work

Would that just require more powerful stepper motors then? Or maybe 3x NEMA17s?

I don't know, I can only speak to what works on my printer

I am having a problem connecting to the printer. I do not believe I have a clone it is a Arduino Mega but I am getting the "Communication Timeout - reset send buffer block" error message in Repetier. :/ Please Help. Thank You

Try a different com port maybe

I got it to connect but whenever I use the manual controls the most distance I can go is in increments of 1 if I try 10 the motors squeal and it goes 1. I have tried changing belt tension and alignment and still cant seem to fix it. Any ideas?

sounds like maybe your speeds are set too high

Thank you for your responses they are very helpful. Everthing works now except when I start a print and the bed homes it drops about 1-2mm to low. The z axis homes perfect every other time just not when it starts a print. I can still start a print and move it manually up and it will print but this is and hassle. It almost seems like it trys to home to fast and skips a step. Is there settings that control the start print z home speed that are separate than the normal home button speed?

I am looking for info on a design program. Any help please.

Its fusion 360. Phenomenic CAD/CAM with free license for hobbist.

So I've got another Issue, havent been able to solve.... When I slice my prints in Repetier host, they are centered on the build platform.... but when i go to print them .... they print towards the origin corner (back left). I've checked and double checked the printer config to make sure it lines up with the one in the build kit, but can't for the life of me figure out why it's printing back there.

Anyone else have this issue, or have any insight??

Does your driver file have an origin setting?

I'm not sure? Where is that located?

They try to print on the origin or close to it?

Yeah, so if I center the print in Repetier on the build plate, when I actually go to print, they end up in the back left corner near 0, 200 instead of in the center of the build plate. Ive checked and double checked the printer shape settings to make sure they match the instructions, but unless I move the print to the upper right corner of the Repetier Build area, the print wont be centered.... Any ideas?