D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01, published

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
49 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps
Tip Designer Report Thing

Thing Info

158598Views 45771Downloads Found in 3D Printers


Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

Optional Components

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320
Cable Chain - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167746
Vslot Endcaps - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515
Tubing Clips - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213
Bowden retraction stabilizer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Extruder Manual Feed Knob (small) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:474394
Vslot Channel Cover - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

D-Bot and C-Bot Differences

1) The lead screws and Z motors were moved forward to better lift the print bed from its center of gravity rather than use a fully cantilevered print bed.
2) Increased printable Z height to 330mm (~13")
3) Use of 20mm rails for the bottom sections to save cost and reduce bulk.
4) Various adjustments of printable parts, either to add plastic where it seemed like more rigidity was needed or to subtract plastic where it was not needed.
5) Accessories such as a simplified spool holder a cable chain for bed wiring
6) Relocated endstop mounting to maximize Y travel and utilize default homing scheme.
7) Overall reduction in cost compared to the original bill of materials (2$ square nuts vs 40$ Tnuts, etc.)

More from 3D Printers

view more
Tip Designer Report Thing

Thing Info

158598Views 45771Downloads Found in 3D Printers

A part of these Groups

View All

Liked By

View All

Design Tools


Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

File Name



All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

This App connects Thingiverse with Makeprintable, a cloud-based mesh repair service that analyzes, validates and repairs most common mesh errors that can occur when preparing a 3D design file for p...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

I am looking at the documentation and I am really impressed.
Thank you very much for all those efforts, important as they are for me to get a good idea of what I am probably going for.

How did you calculate the 400 steps for the Z-axis?

It depends on what type of lead screw you have..

2mm pitch 4-start (8mm per turn) = 400
2mm pitch single start (2mm per turn) = 1600

15 hours ago - Modified 15 hours ago
geoxile - in reply to TheLost

It's a TR8x8, I guess the second 8 means 8mm per turn? Thanks.

Edit: Would actually measuring the travel pf the Z-axis and using it to calculate the steps give better results than a theoretical calculation?

If you picked up a good quality lead screw you shouldn't have to measure anything. i'm a fan of just following the prusa calculator.. if my prints are off i fix the hardware not the math :)

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago

Hi, I am building my model of D-bot: @Spauda01 (or some makers) have thought of a possible solution to close the print volume? To facilitate the printing of ABS and similar materials. I was thinking about the Plexiglas walls and printed supports anchored to the alu profiles. I think it is not possible to make 100% airtight, but at least to eliminate the external air corrente..

Thank you! I was looking for an easier way to apply only on the walls, less sophisticated than the E-bot (but also less efficient ;) ) if I have time I'll do some sketches

Something Like this :-)


Not finished yet but getting there.

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

I found this 300x300 heater bed online. Anyone have any opinions/suggestions on this? It's 12v, 20a, 400w. With the suggested in BOM power supply, I'm planning on using 2 power supplies, one for electronics (suggested in BOM) and one for the bed.

power supply for bed- https://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-AC110V-Switch-Supply-Driver/dp/B019RNKOK6/ref=sr_1_21?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472206569&sr=1-21&keywords=power+supply+12v+switching

300x300 silicone rubber heated bed- http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=29

Any suggestions?

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago

Spauda01, so when is the v2 build coming out?

front/rear supported gantry
auto leveling mount(s)
support for direct drive extruder (Toranado?)
maybe 24v all around...

All off these have been done by various builders of the original C-bot

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago
TheLost - in reply to lentiman

I'm curious about the front/rear supported gantry.. I'm not sure this would improve print quality. Has anybody done it, and if so.. why?

I have done it on my build (a close cousin of the D-Bot) and yes, it does improve quality. The issue is that the side mounted configuration has a tendency to jostle a bit when changing directions. That's a problem if you use auto-leveling or lift-on-retraction

Most people are doing all that already, no need for David to release anything.

Plenty remixes and information out there to do what you have asked for.. and its not hard to find.

Hi guys, reference the discussion below about heatbeds and power supplies, I mentioned this 300x300 bed:

the problem is the 24v 600w power supply that's needed is huge and expensive. Looking at the specs its around 1ohm resistance, at 24v pulls around 550w power so even that beefy psu would struggle, so I was thinking...

If I had a 24v psu, the volts would have to be stepped down to 12v for the electronics, but I could also step down the volts to the bed, if I ran it at 16v it would pull around 250w which is much better.

the 300x200 one is about 140w which is 0.23w/cm3, The arrangement above is 0.27w/cm3 so performance should be around the same shouldn't it?

With this setup I could use the nice 300x300 silkscreen pcb bed, keep everything dc power and use a sensible PSU.

Anybody have any thoughts / comments on this?



thats what i did, [email protected] heats up pretty fast still.

Whats your goal? Fast heat up time or a cool looking bed? IF you just want the nice looking bed just power it all off 12 so you dont need a 24v psu and a dcdc converter.

First of all, I would like to thank you for publishing such a fantastic guide, even I should be able to manage the build ... at least, that's my plan :-)
Do you have a clearer image of the 300x300 cutting list please, for some reason it doesn't show up clearly for me.

Hi Guys, first of all thanks spauda01 for the amazing work you have done here, this is an excellent build, and I'm about to embark on mine.

I want to do the 300X300 version, but when it comes to heated beds, the reprap pcb types will require a ton of dc power to heat up in any reasonable time, and also cost a fortune for a huge dc power supply. So I've been looking at the ac silicone heaters which seems to solve all problems, just using a small dc power supply for the printer and an ac ssr for the bed... problem solved, apart from some concerns over 230V of power here in the UK!

There is a wiring guide in the appendix for this, but there is no mention of earthing the chassis. Looking at the design, I think the whole frame completes a circuit, so I believe this would just be a case of grounding on the aluminium extrusion at the bottom near the ac in, and then running a cable to connect the bed to the frame. I think I'll connect this up and get a local expert to verify before I actually fire it up, but does anybody have any experience of this that could offer some guidance or have any wiring diagrams to hand?

Thanks in advance


I used this... actually used the glass and pei too but its only 24v 15a so you dont need a huge power supply. It heats up very well and quickly. I can heat to 60deg and have the hotend to 160deg before my Di3 heats to 60deg. Costs more but its been a good choice for me. Only downside is you need to come up with a mounting system for it.

Hi, thanks for that. This looks like a good option. I'm glad to hear you've had success with it and it heats up quickly. Regarding mounting, I'm thinking of 3mm aluminium plate cut to size, stick this to the underside, and drill holes in the corners to use the existing mounting system in the guide. I presume something like a 24v 400w PSU would be sufficient for this setup?

Yeah I got this one (400W)... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201111551914

So far its working, I do get some "ticking" noises out of it when the PWM starts to kick in and stabilize the heat bed but as with all chinese stuff, YMMV.

A 300x300 pcb type heater shouldnt draw too much current relative to the power supply. My pcb heater is a 200x300 and it draws about 10A during ramp up (max draw) so a 300x300 would draw approximately 15A during ramp up. On a 30a power supply thats plenty of margin when also adding 5A max for other loads.

Look around for 300x300 pcb beds and see what their stated power, current, or resistance ratings are.

I only recommend AC beds for advanced users due to the dangerous voltages involved but if you want to go that route but I believe the silicone mat AC heaters are isolated.

For earth ground, connecting the earth ground to the power supply grounds that chassis and attaching the power supply to the frame bonds the main chassis, although most rails are just touching and arent properly bonded but it should be sufficient.

Oh.. and thanks for the reply!

I was looking at this model by the same seller as the 300x200 one linked in BOM:
its around 24A on 24V, I would need about a 600w power supply and also have to step down the voltage for the other electronics. I really like the silk screen grid on these beds though, Has anyone seen this type of bed with a higher resistance so it doesn't need such an expensive PSU?

24v is definitely more complicated than 12v, you would need something like a 600w 24v psu

Oh, and all the work you've done on the guide, bom and designs is very much appreciated, when I have the funds to start this project I will make sure to tip you, and i hope other builders do too. You've saved a lot of people a lot of time and money, well done!

I don't mind so much the 24v as you can step down the volts in line to the ramps, its just a 600w psu bumps up the cost... a lot!
As I mentioned I really like the bed design sold by reprap me with the silk screen grid, it's nice and simple and looks really good, but the 200X300 is around 130w, then as soon as you go to the 300x300 one they dropped the resistance to 1 ohm meaning it draws around 550w! If they had that design, at around 250w it would be perfect!

Thats the advantage of an AC bed, no 600w psu needed and your 12v psu can actually be smaller too, on the order of 10A. Converting 500W of power to 24v just to turn it into heat is pretty much a waste of such an expensive psu. Just make sure if you go the AC bed route to be very careful with all connections

Exactly my thinking, and exactly my concerns. Might just consult an electrician to be safe!

The anodized coating on the aluminum V-slot is actually very insulating. I checked continuity between parts of the frame and more often than not they're not connected.
To be on the safe side you might want to drill holes through the slot and connect grounding wires with bolts.

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
MrBlom - in reply to spauda01

Hello spauda01 thank you for a grate design !
im about to build a 24v version (all components )
is a 30A PSU also enough when using 24v?
i have a hard time finding 30A 24v

Read some where that a 2A motor at 12v only uses 1A at 24v
if so would this PSU be good enough?

Thank you!

It depends what kind of heated bed you will use

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
MrBlom - in reply to spauda01

same as you i think
maybe not :) found this
(Running 24V on a 12V setting will heatup the heatbed to 100 degree Celsius in only 2 minutes (while consuming 443 - 576 Watts!!!))

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
Wigwam82 - in reply to MrBlom

24v 15A produces the same wattage as 12v 30A (24v 30A is over 600w), unless its needed, I would just stick with the 12v.
Ah just seen what your trying to achieve, the fast heat up time. Your having the same trouble as me and the 300x300 bed. The power supply is expensive!

"KDan" says in this thread and i read it on other places that running the hole system on 24v will make it a better printer
so when building something from scratch why not

why not mod the ramps 1.4 to 24v and goo all in :)

or am i missing something ?

From what I can gather, you can reduce some wiring sizes etc. How do you mod a ramps for 24v?

I have bought both M5 Hex Nuts and M5 Square Nuts and neither fit into the V-Slots? Help

The square nuts need to say DIN-562 square nuts from wherever you got them. I'm assuming you didnt get them from mrmetric

Has anyone tried running the belt with a twist (i.e. 180 rotation between the motor and rear idler) so that the belt teeth aren't hitting the various pulleys?

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016

So I'm building the D-Bot and I'm having some issues getting the motors to work.

I'm using Nema 17 Stepper motors found at openbuilds.com


Ramps 1.4 3D printer controller with Mega 2560 and A4988 2A Drivers


my issue, currently, is with the Z axis. While the build guide says to run it off of .55 volts. it doesn't seem to want to work properly when both Z-axis motors are connected at the same time. The results are not consistent. here is a video of exactly what is going on.


Any help would be much appreciated.

You Z movement speed is way too high, it wouldn't ever rotate this fast in use.

Get the fan on the stepper drivers all the time - you can get away with playing for a few minutes without it (lid off) if the machine has just been powered on, but if you want to rule out overheating then it needs the fan on there while testing because the stepper motors are usually energized, so generating heat even if nothing is in motion.

I also wouldn't try and make any measurements based on comparing how many revolutions you estimate the motor is doing for the various movement distances - 1 revolution does not necessarily equal 10mm of travel, etc. Get the lead screws and bed on there and then work with real distances would be my advice.

He fixed it, didn't have microstepping pins in place

what firmware? I'm running the newest Marlin and it allows you to use E1 as a second Z stepper. Gets around that issue.

Using the latest firmware. 1.6.11

Aug 22, 2016 - Modified Aug 22, 2016
Ocmoho - in reply to Nyghtpoison

have you tested the x and y axis? maybe your steps are off(1/32 or 1/16 etc)
are all jumpers installed?

so I did some research, it appears that the jumpers were not installed on the Ramps board to enable 1/16 micro stepping. I found this http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf which cleared some stuff up. The ramps, Arduino, and drivers came assembled, so I never thought of checking the configuration.

Aug 22, 2016 - Modified Aug 22, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to Nyghtpoison

From the build guide page 53: "Verify jumpers are placed on all pairs of pins under each of the stepper driver boards"


I guess I didn't read it as detailed as I should have. I do want to thank you for your help giving some suggestions as what was going on. A learning experience for me, embarrassing, but an experience none the less. The motors are now working, what appears to be exactly the way they are suppose to.

Be sure to read all steps, double check connections on things like the wiring diagram including small wires, maybe print it out and highlight wires as you go. Check off items in the build guide as you go too

I have tested the X and Y as well. there are issues there as well.



can you expand on these? I'm new to this and I'm going by the build guide itself. So unless its in there I'm in the wind. ;)

This comment has been deleted.

Looks like you are running those motors way faster than they would ever be used at. Did you change the max speed and accel settings?

Your board looks the same as mine, I run each stepper driver at 0.55v and they all work fine, you dont need to increase the limit for two motors. Your motors are different than mine but have similar specs. Double check your wiring because that is different.

Mine at each motor connector is Red,Green,Yellow,Blue,
Yours needs to be Green,Yellow,Red,Blue according to the datasheet.

If you are controlling via repetier host, turn down the z speed in settings.

I made all the changes that were described in the build guide. I just went back to verify the settings and they all match.

I also had questions regarding the wiring. I thought the wiring should be G, Y, R, B, but it came wired as Y, G, B, R

in regards to the z speed, are you referring to the Z-Axis feed rate? its currently set to 600.

I don't remember what I have it set to in repetier for manual Z control but when i move my bed up and down, the z motors are going about 1rev/sec

Can someone tell me how to stick wires to the cork

Do you mean connect wires to the bed? Why would you connect wires to cork

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016
deuse - in reply to spauda01

In your pictures you have the thermistor and positive and earth running along the cork bed.
What did you use to keep them attached to the cork?


I see what you mean, thats JBweld epoxy, the same thing that attaches the cork to the heated bed

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016
deuse - in reply to spauda01

Thank you. Just buying some now.

I used Heatsink Plaster for the cork bed and it stuck very well.

Finally get back to this project and am going to level the bed and have some very inconsistent results across the bed. Anything i can check right off. Gantry seems to be level off the back rale but arms are a bit off, guess i can fix that with z grove wheels at the back? Also seems a lot of difference left to right. Any ideas would be helpful. TIA

Arms coming off the rear might not be 100% square. Unless they are out by a lot, in the grand scheme of things, it doesnt matter. As long as the heat bed and build plate are flat when printing. Whole point of having an adjustable heat bed, not everything is going to be 100% square.

Anyone use an adapter like this one? - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723

The stock 30mm fan is so loud!

E3D v6 Hotend - 40mm Fan Duct
by loco
Aug 19, 2016 - Modified Aug 19, 2016

We are considering offering a kit of the pieces required for this printer. We are a canadian Reseller of Openbuilds componets. If you are interested please let us know, Store is makerparts.ca

Are people looking for just the Aluminum or also the printed parts?
Please let us know [email protected]

I'm looking to make this, and believe I can on my small Printrbot Play. I've noticed that some files (1-endstopZ, 1-extruder, both print carriages, both rear idlers, 2-motor-mount) have solid holes where screws should go through. It appears that most of the holes are attachment points to the OpenBuild frame. Is this a file error, or do I need to drill the holes prior to assembly?

Read build guide page 9

Ahh, there we go. Thanks!

I found a local source for some 'upgraded' bits.. however, I had to buy in bulk (100 at a time).

Aluminum Wheel Spacers (8mm OD x 5.1mm ID x 7mm)
Aluminum Bearing Shims (8mm OD x 5.1mm ID x 1mm)

If you want my leftovers (and are in the U.S) shoot me a message.. I'll let you have them for my cost, which is lower than anything I found online.

If I could get some spacers that would be amazing! The ones in my machine suck and I am having a hard time printing them.

anyone with a 300x300 build have an approximate location they mounted the z motors to the bed at, that doesn't bind?

All depends on the weight of your bed... I lifted the assembly by the tip of my finger to find where it felt the smoothest to lift.

I finally finished my printer some time last week, and had couple of successful prints. However, It seems like my bed level gets out of tune after every print. after troubleshooting it for couple of nights, I found out that the z axis has some play to it. so for example when the z end stop engage, the front of the bed platform moves up a little, and then it goes back down.

I've also tried using one of those induction sensors I had laying around, didn't work too well. I wonder if it's because the same issues.

Did anyone else encounter a similar issue, where the z platform is not very stable?

Make sure the wheels are all in contact with the vslots... they need to have a firm grip on rails 'A' and 'B' to reduce movement.

Its also important to make sure rails 'O' and 'P' on the Z Platform don't sag/wiggle/move. I use aluminum corner brackets rather than printed ones just to be safe (you can get 4 for $2 on ebay).

I'll try out the aluminum corner brackets, I got ones that fit a regular 2020 extrusion, will see if they fit.

In regards to the wheels, should they be very tight against the v-slot?

I made sure all my wheels on the Z platform are tight enough that it's hard (but not impossible) to turn them with my fingers. The Z wheel guides are split into 2 parts so you can adjust each side (front/back) individually to get the correct fit (i assume this is why it was designed this way). It takes a few minutes to get right... but easy once you get the hang of it.

Any good guides on getting started printing? Getting pretty frustrated with under extrusion and slipping.
It also seems to jam everyday requiring a break down of the hotend.
Is there some etiquette that I am missing after a print to prevent jams? I can usually get an under extruded print but can do another one after.

What hotend are you using? a genuine E3D, knockoff or other?

It is the genuine one from the BOM from filastruder.

The under extrusion and slipping are more than likely related to the jamming. Start by googling 'e3d v6 jamming' and you will find a lot of pseudo-science and some practical tips to try and identify/resolve your issues.

I don't know that there are any post print procedures for reducing jamming, a well adjusted setup doesn't require anything in my experience - just don't turn the machine off straight after the print, you want the fan on the hot end heatsink to keep the heat from travelling up the heat break until the hot end has cooled down below the glass temperature for your material, otherwise you'll be in for a world of pain.

make sure your extruder spring is tight. make sure your hot end fan always runs, it should never turn off as long as power is on. after a print, don't turn off the power right away, wait until the hot end gets to 50c or below before turning off power.

At first the polarity of my fan wasn't right so that was obvious but I will def try leaving it on and letting it cool down before turning it all off.
How tight should the spring be? I crank it down to hand tight, should I use a tool to tighten?

Tight enough that when you print and watch the extruder, the bearing should turn with the motor, if it doesnt, try to retighten

Aug 14, 2016 - Modified Aug 14, 2016

I have a problem about y axis shaking please watch video.
I checked belt tension and pulley position. This shaking hapen not a straight line on y axis.
Any solutions?


bad bearing or motor shaft bent?

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016
ekkutlu - in reply to uglybob

I Checked every parts still shaking :(

When you move it around with your hand is it smooth?

When I removed belt on carriage its moving by hand smoothly, its shows us carriage alignment okey but i connect belt on carriage again y axis shaking moving by hand. :(

I think you have narrowed it to your belt + belt components then. Look that everything is true and tracking as straight as possible. Move it by hand watching each component. I can only provide limited advice as my core xy isn't built yet.

Aug 14, 2016 - Modified Aug 14, 2016

I added 114mm to the length of all the frame pieces lengthwise in order to make a 16x8" print bed and when I added up all the lengths of the frame parts my lengths are not really longer than the total length of slot extrusions in the bill of materials. Is there leftover frame extrusions if I were to make the regular sized printer? I should be adding 342mm to the 20x40 rods and 456mm to the 20x20mm rods total. With this added length my totals are 2974mm worth of 20x20 rod and 5113mm total of 20x40 rod. Why are my totals so close to the totals in the original BOM? Did you include extra? I realize I'll need a bit extra for cutting, and did not add that in to these totals yet.

Look at the rail cut diagram in the build guide, you will see how the pieces fit on the rails and where the scrap lengths are

Does anyone get wobble or shaking in Y direction? I have to reduce the speed to 15mm/s (perimeter, infill and anything), acceleration 800mm/s2, jerk about 5 to minimize the wobble. it's too slow. my previous cheap printer can do faster without problem.
the wobble only occurs in Y direction, not in X direction. The bed also shaking because of that wobble.
if I hold the top frame, the wobble disappear.
Yes, I already tighten all screw. I'm thinking to add brace on the left and right frame to stiffen the frame. I'm wondering what did i do wrong.

Can you post any videos? Sounds like something that definitely shouldnt happen

I'll do it next monday. It's almost midnight here, and I left the printer on my workshop. :D
One more, everytime i print jolly 3d benchy on my old printer, i never could to make it print the 3dbenchy nameplate on the backside of the ship. Using D-Bot, even with some shaking, i can see the name plate, and from the certain angle i can read it (very hard to read). :D I'm using 0.4 nozzle. so happy to have one good printer. Great job spauda01.

Aug 13, 2016 - Modified Aug 13, 2016

I finally got everything together and the Z motors work fine but X, Y and the extruder pulsate and sound horrible. I googled for a couple of hours and tried upping and lower the drivers but that didn't change anything. I also tried the ABDC and BACD configs on the wires and nothing.
Kinda frustrating, any ideas anyone?
Also can't get my endstops to work. m119 shows them as all open with no change when triggering.

Check your stepper jumpers. I was missing a set of them with my RAMPS board and it caused my Z axis motors to not turn/make horrible noises.

As for the endstops I'd check in the firmware to see if you have max end stops enabled. For whatever reason I had them in my firmware when I downloaded it. Shut those off and your endstops should work fine.

Did you put jumpers under each stepper driver?

Swap the Z and X stepper driver and see if that does anything

This comment has been deleted.
Aug 13, 2016 - Modified Aug 13, 2016
th3v3rn - in reply to spauda01

All 3 jumpers are in place and I tried swapping and nothing, same behavior.

Here is a video of whats going on. I am using the manual control and increasing by increments of 10. Movement is random.


Even with the extruder motor plugged into the z axis pins I get the behavior. I think I will recrimp them cause these are the only motors I extended.

seems like one or both stepper get wrong current setting on your driver. use volt meter / multitester to measure V ref on each driver. I was stressed when i was tuning blind without volt meter, until (finally) using volt meter and set those driver, and the stepper moves smoothly without pulsating.

So I do have a voltmeter and was able to set them all at .55. I also tried increments down to .3 and up to .7

Seems odd to me. It was occured once to me before. I was lazy and just change the driver with 8825 i have around, put the jumper, and the motor start working. I'm not getting back to 4988 yet to find the problem. I think it could be wrong jumper position or wrong vref value. Or faulty driver (swap the driver with known working set).

I don't think it is the driver cause if I plug in the extruder motor into the z axis pins I get the same behavior. It maybe my crimping abilities, I can never get solid crimps even with the tool. I think I will try that.

What control board do you have?

The RAMPS 1.4.

This is the link - http://m.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Kit-Mega-2560-RAMPS-1-4-5X-A4988-for-Arduino-RepRap-US-Shipping-/262301994587?txnId=1857460125016

Was hoping buying US would avoid hassle, hopefully it's all good.

This is just beautiful. Minimalistic and seems to be stiff.

I wish someone would sell a frame kit for this printer!! Hard to find these parts in Canada.... anyone???

Do you mean the rails or the printed parts?

the rails... I have two printers that I have no problem with pinting PLA with - but I see you don't recommend PLA - I haven't had much good luck with ABS. I was going to print PLA at .1 - but I did find someone selling all the printed parts for a good prince in ABS...

MakerGeek PETG or Raptor Series PLA

My printer is all PLA and while there are some fine cracks in parts I think overall its fine. If anything, build the printer then use it to reprint parts in petg if you think it needs upgraded

Thanks! I will do it - I see you recommend .2mm layers? .1 is so much more accurate.... i wish there was an enterprising person who would make a frame kit with bearings, etc.

You can do 0.1 or 0.2, whichever you prefer.

There's certainly an opportunity for someone to make and sell kits but I wouldn't trust such a thing.

Building a printer and self sourcing the parts means you buy each part and you are responsible for the quality of what you buy. If you just buy a kit someone else put together theres a good chance that they just bought cheap sh1t and threw it in a box. I know there's some pretty cheap chinese parts on here but at least you know which parts those are and you can decide where to make tradeoffs.

Thats what separates a diy build from an off the shelf printer or a kit. You cut the pieces, you select the hardware, you print the parts, and hook it all up and the machine you end up with is all yours and I think its more enjoyable to use.

You can get all of it on aliexpress with free shipping (but would recommend getting the extrusions locally). Sure it might take 3-4 weeks to arrive but goodluck getting all the prints and cutting the extrusions done that quick anyway!

Anyone have Repetier firmware preconfigured for this printer? Can send me? Im not sure how set core xy kinematics in this firmware.

I think it is done in the RAMPS configuration.. as per the build guide. Then repetier commands are translated to corexy movements by your controller.

Marlin firmware and Repetier firmware is two different firmwares.

Doh sorry I have only used repetier as the PC software "repetier host".

Repetier does support corexy. I'm currently using it. Only few lines that had to be changed.

The bottom mounting plate of the Solid State Relay doesn't have any contact with live elements right?

Correct, it is just a heatsink unlike a mosfet where the heatsink tab can be live

I'm having a problem with resonance at lower speeds. When it's moving quickly, it is smooth, but when it's making horizontal movements at low speeds, it shakes. How do I fix this??

That's pretty weird, can you share a video?

This comment has been deleted.

Looks very slow - I think you should be able to print at twice those speeds.

Aug 11, 2016 - Modified Aug 11, 2016
uglybob - in reply to beepbeep

speed isnt the issue, its the quality of print at low speeds. Generally low speeds should mean clean accurate prints.. not so for the OP. My printer was noisy until I put dampeners on the x/y motors but the quality wasnt worse. Maybe a bad bearing somewhere?

I've been thinking of starting this project but my one of my concerns are plastic on metal on the high stress areas. I'm planing to print the parts in PETG and was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with the durability over time of the gantry due to heat and vibration?

Yes. Im print all parts in PetG and parts cracks. Propably print temp is too high and 100% infill.

There really arent any high stress areas, if you had a cantilevered bed that would hold a lot of stress/torque. I think i had my accel/jerk kind of high initially and would get some rough vibrations but i turned that down in the marlin firmware file. My printer is made from PLA and its been going for months and the only wear is some small cracks in a few parts and i think thats mostly cosmetic and could be from when i had the accel set too high initially. petg or abs parts should be pretty darn strong i think.

Aug 10, 2016 - Modified Aug 10, 2016

anyone know a better solution than a dc-dc relay? im running 24V heated bed/PSU with a 12v step down, but the first time i tried to run the heated bed I think it fused the relay closed, and now whenever powered on it is always heating(yes it was attached to a heatsink). I am going to order another relay, but i really dont want that to happen again in the middle of a print and the printer go up in flames. :(

Did you hook up the 24v side correctly? The situation you describe matches what happens when the output terminals get swapped.

How much current does the bed draw during heatup? What was the current rating of the ssr?

so it may be the wiring. got a new relay and it is the same, I'm hooking up negative straight to psu, and positive to relay output side then to bed same side. there is no diagram for the bed though so I don't know what side is pos or negative, it is the reprap big bed 300x300

Beds don't have positive or negative leads, they are just giant resistors. Look at the dbot electrical diagram pdf and pay attention to the polarity of the top side of the relay

Aug 12, 2016 - Modified Aug 12, 2016
Ocmoho - in reply to spauda01

Yep, i quadruple checked, it matches the diagram perfectly. I think i am just going to blow $25 on a more expensive relay instead of using these cheap fotek relays. Im betting they both were just bad. They worked and even LED worked correctly, but after a few minutes they just fused on and the LED stopped working as well.
edit: Anyone link a good name brand DC-DC relay, having such a hard time finding one.

I'm using a cheap basic relay and it works fine. Look more into the issue before just buying more relays and sticking them in and letting them fail.
What is the max current draw of your bed?
Are you sure the control board isnt unintentionally driving the ssr?
Is the ssr led on when this happens?
What kind of control board are you using?

driving the ssr? is it not supposed to? in the diagram it is hooked straight up to the ramps, I am using ramps, I am using almost everything identical to the bom besides the 300x300 and 24v bed. the led does work then flickers out when it appears to die, then never works again. bringing my multimeter home to test draw today, the ssr was rated at 40amps though.

the vendor for the heated bed should state the max current draw or resistance or max power consumption

thats 576W, what is your power supply even rated for?

That leaves no room for anything else, you practically need two power supplies. Even if your SSR didn't fail, your power supply would fail eventually.

yeah I know, I planned to lower the output on the psu, it is adjustable, to lower the draw

Depending one the firmware and what settings you have but there should be a thermal runaway safety to turn off the printbed or hotend when it gets over a specific temp.

Aug 10, 2016 - Modified Aug 10, 2016
Ocmoho - in reply to uglybob

yes, that is the thing though, if the relay is fused closed(the circuit) it doesnt matter if ramps is telling it to heat or not, it will still supply power to the bed, regardless. That is what happened to me. Only way to stop power is physically turn power off.

That power expander wont work, he's trying to draw ~576W and that part is rated for 250W

Now we know the bed draw... definitely not suitable. Heatsink and some good active cooling might help?

wow nice. thanks for the link looks like that is perfect.

May I ask if it was a SSR or a mechanical relay you used?

it was an ssr I bought from Amazon.com

Regarding the adjustable m5 slots for x/y carriage v-wheel tension... I am finding I am having to use all of the adjustment slot travel in order to get the carriage contact (i.e. not free play). Is this unusual? Ideally I thought you would get the full contact somewhere halfway through the adjustment and then the rest would be for controlling the tightness.

powis - in reply to powis

btw the build is progressing nicely, thanks for all the help Spauda! will be sure to add photos to "made one" soon.

powis - in reply to powis

I'd really like someones opinion on how hard it is to get the wheels tight on the rail? I just finished another part and unfortunately with going as tight as I can go (and also applying pressure on the bolts to make sure they are as far as they can go) I still get some knocking of the x-y carriages. Help!

I was thinking of running the dremel inside the slots to get myself a bit more travel to allow a tighter carriage.

You must have some bad printed parts, you cant get the wheels to both make contact on either side?

Spauda01 it is very close to being a nice fit, however if I grab the carriage and shake it I can the minutest bit of play, and I know if it could tighten a little further it would be just right, but still not ideal to not have anymore ability to tighten as time goes on. Strange!

Go ahead and post 'i made one' and post some pictures of the wheels and carriage if you can

It may have been some crud left over from internal brims in my slots. Hitting it with the dremel helped and it is now able to tighten reasonable well.

Someone has a config for the latest version of Cura?
Share please! Thanks!

Aug 8, 2016 - Modified Aug 8, 2016

For the relay, I bought a DC-DC SSR for the 12V bed, but I see the build is using an AC SSR with 120V. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for DC-DC? I imagine I just need to replace the lines that go to the 120V to go to 12V PSU instead, but just want to confirm so I don't blow things up!

What do you mean? The electrical diagram is shown for a 12v bed and a dc-dc relay

Look earlier in the build guide, the default build is with the DC/DC SSR. What you may be looking at is the appendix at the end which shows the alternative use of a DC/AC SSR.

super sorry! I guess I need to stop trying to figure things out while my brain is tired, I completely missed the DC-DC info! :(

Hello. I made Rumba board case for D-bot Core xy. If there is anyone interested is welcome to download and test it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1708478

Rumba board V-slot case for D-bot Core xy

You can also list it as a remix of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure for Vslot

Simply you can add this as Optional Components of D-bot parts.

Anyway you can upload the files in another format besides just the STL's? I know a few files I've used on here do that. Love the build and planning to make one but with a few alterations to suit the components I have and sizing I need. Problem is SolidWorks is having trouble with quite a few of the files to convert from stl to a solid. Some work ok but others are invalid and get an inconsistent face error. Almost all have a facet error.

What other formats would work? I only have .stl and .skp, i could try converting to something else

Aug 8, 2016 - Modified Aug 8, 2016
Unlucky_Irish - in reply to spauda01

If .skp is sketch up's native file it should work. I can reopen in Sketch up and edit then if you're fine with that. Then if I can get it to convert I can send you the files in other formats if you want to add them here for others as well

You can get the .stl extension for sketchup and import the files that way. That's what I would be doing anyway

The problem is converting out of .stl to an actual CAD file format. STL creates issues such as multiple faces where there is really one face or creating holes after the final conversion and not becoming a solid. The .skp native files don't have this issue or if you directly export the file as a .dwg. I was just going to save you that step as the files you have are .skp and I can export them. Wasn't going to ask you to take the time out of your day to re-export all the files.

There is an .skp of the entire assembly but the parts cannot be accessed individually as they are looking into your folder. Example: C:\Users\CENSORED NAME\Desktop\ZMotorMount_Elevated_20mm.skp

I don't have .skp versions of each file, I only have .stl. I just meant that I could convert to .skp if needed.

Ah! That makes more sense. And you CAD/manipulate with STl's? That's a first. I only used AutoCad and Solidworks. If its doing it that way its all good and I can do the conversion from stl to .skp

Aug 6, 2016 - Modified Aug 6, 2016

Any one with a 300 x 300 build have a good measurement of the distance between the K and L rails?

Rail J and L are perpindicular

Derp, I meant the L and K :P

It really depends on where/how you've mounted the bed.

This comment has been deleted.

Hi everyone -- I have all of my aluminum purchased from Openbuilds and planned to find a local shop to cut it (I have neither the skill nor the tools to do it properly). I have a bid from one but they are planning to use a bandsaw and are talking about tolerances of 1.5mm. Is that sufficient or should I try to find another solution/shop to help me?

There is ZERO skill needed to cut the aluminum. All you need is access to a chop/miter saw and a Carbide tipped (most blades are carbide tipped). I actually had the blade that was linked to in the build guide (~$20).. but $15 blades from the hardware stores will get the job done.

IMHO a bandsaw is a bad idea.. too much runout (error).

The key is to make 'repeatable' cuts..

YOU CAN DO IT!!!!! :)

I would say you need a non-zero skill level. For example, don't put your fingers under the blade etc.

I guess that's tolerable (no pun intended), I would expect better especially if paying for it. Maybe keep looking

Thank you -- I will keep looking.

@spauda01... great design, part objects, and instructions. My build has gone super smooth so far... Just wanted to say Thanks!

Good to hear, click 'i made one' and submit some pictures for everyone to see :-D

Page 33 and 52 of the build guide detail the sizes of springs needed

Search for '3d printer springs' (of all things) on eBay, you will find a lot to choose from.

but then have to wait a month, I'm itching to get this going! :D

Dear friends I need help for lead screw and z axis alignment I try build guide method but heatbed dosent move smoothly. Thanks.

Maybe you need more stepper drive current.

Please provide more details

Aug 4, 2016 - Modified Aug 4, 2016

The heatbed that I purchased doesn't have a center hole and drilling one looks like it would screw up the circuit. Any one run into this and have an idea of a good way to fix the thermistore to the glass?
Also my heatbed seems to be warped. Should I wap it out or it is kinda common?

If it is warped upward then clamping it to glass will flatten, if it is bowed downward there will be a gap between the bed and glass and thats not helpful

Yea, so the corners are up and the center is down. I placed it in such a way that I am going to bow it back but it being silicon I doubt it will do anything. Guess I'll return it.

Aug 3, 2016 - Modified Aug 3, 2016

Regarding the shims.. I scaled them up so they are >1mm thickness.

Now when I put the screw through them and bolt them up tight to a component I still get some binding of the bearings. Should I just take care to not tighten them too much (plastic shim might be deforming inside?) or would you suspect the shim still isnt thick enough?

Also.. I am really struggling to get these bearings out of the wheels for those ones that I want to re-shim-ify!

I'm going to update the parts list to just include metal rather than plastic shims

I had the problems you describe with the shims.

The problem you have is the tension you need to put on the bolt for good motion (no play in gantry, etc.) is going to make the bearings bind, so you cannot have good motion with your current shims. The plastic is indeed deforming and being squashed.

My advice would be buy the proper openbuilds wheel spacers (they are inexpensive), or alternatives are to print the shims but at 2mm thickness, or use something like an m4 washer, drill out the hole to 5mm, stack two together for increased thickness and then put these between your wheels.

Removing the bearings (thanks to spauda01 for this method) is easy enough if you clamp the wheel in a vice and use a small flat bladed screwdriver with the tip placed so that it gets a bit of purchase in the shim area. Tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer or similar and you'll get the bearings out no problem. I just laid down a towel underneath the vice to stop things rolling away... Had to do 40 wheels at once using this and it was no hassle, just repetitive.

Hope this helps.

Cheers for the tip..

Actually really struggling to find these precision shims anywhere. 20$ shipping to Aus from that openbuilds website.

Well that's why I opted for printed shims so people could just make them rather than buy them but I didn't expect so many issues, mine worked fine

The printed shims actually worked OK for me too. I used PLA and sanded them very lightly with 600 grit on flat glass to ensure they were smooth. ABS, being softer, might crush more easily. I've been able to tighten the bolts enough without causing the bearings to drag. There is no doubt that metal shims would be better.

To be honest I haven't really given the printed shims a fair go yet. The metal would be nice so I don't have to worry about over tightening so much.

Aug 3, 2016 - Modified Aug 4, 2016
powis - in reply to powis

Found AU shim source... http://www.makerstore.com.au/product/mini-shim-7-8x5x1mm/


edit: fixed link again

I linked to the 10mm OD also and I was told it was the 8mm OD one so double check.

Thanks you saved me ! I'll update the link again to not mislead others

try that link again, link to the product page

I just want to chime in on this. I was having a lot of issues with binding, and decided to take the plunge and buy the shims (although I printed mine on PETG and they were within spec).

The metal shims did not help, so I found a facebook post that someone recommended using MR105-2RS instead of the MR105ZZ.

Today the MR105-2RS arrived, and they are perfect. I over tightened them on purpose, still smooth (no binding, just a bit harder to move the carriage, but totally consistent).

I would recommend mentioning on the BOM to:

  • Either buy quality MR105ZZ (ex: from Openbuilds store)
  • If buying from China, MR105-2RS are more consistent

Here is the link from the seller I got mine, very reasonably priced:


Hope this helps others save money, I only wasted $5 on the cheapo MR105ZZ, so not too bad, but the wait is the killer (plus some of the v wheels I ended up damaging trying to take the bearings out).

Looks like the wheels on the BOM already has a shim in place. Do we still have to use one?

Theres no shim in the wheels

There's a 1mm flange. So with a shim one side bearing will not be flush and will hang 1mm out of the wheel. Maybe they changed the wheels.

The shim rides inside the flange.

Im looking to build the D bot , 300x200x325 version, but want to have duel heads, got 2x j heads E3d v6 & bowden wade extruder , 1.75 filament 0.4mm nozzle, with ramps 1.4, full graphic 12864 controller and mega 2560 r3 / step drivers A4988, nema 17 cnc motors. Has any one made one yet. if so do you have link, looks like the hotend mounts could be a easy mod. great design spauda01. thanks Chris

The problem I see with using 2 separate hot ends is how do you level the nozzles to each other. You need some kind of bracket which is vertically adjustable for each hot end, and the problem with printed parts is once you've tightened something down once, it leaves an indent in the plastic where it will always tend to settle in the future so making tiny adjustments is unfeasible with screws perpendicular to the face of the carriage. It would need a clever adjustment mechanism with a vertical screw and I'm not sure how reliable that would be in itself.

I'm yet to see photos/video of anyone with a finished and working dual extruder build on the D-bot - lots of designs, but no proof of success... Would love to see this.

(I am using a Chimera)

So if we are using a 12" x 12" heat-bed we need to buy another power supply, would it be best to just buy 2 of the same or is can we use a smaller one like that only has 15-20 amps?
Can we also run them through the same switch? I imagine the 5a fuse will not suffice. Or just use 2 switches.

If your 12x12 bed is 12v, you just hook it up as shown in the electrical diagram

I bought this one (http://tinyurl.com/jx33wqx)

It is a 12V but I do want to be able to print ABS so I imagine hitting that 100C sweet spot will be difficult. I have also been toying with the idea of returning it when it arrives and getting a better one if you have any suggestions cause I have a feeling I overpaid. I really can't find any good 300x300mm heatbeds.

They don't state any parameters like resistance, current, or wattage but that bed should be fine even at 100C. When they say you need a separate power supply they just mean don't power it directly off of the Ramps board

Oh... Gotcha! Thanks you're awesome, that will make things a lot cleaner.

This comment has been deleted.

Everything is together, but I've got two more issues to work out before I can start printing. My xy carraige moves in both the x and y direction. If I try to jog the print head forward in the Y, then the head also moves to the right in the X. The reverse happens if I move the X axis.

The second issue is that I can only move my steppers forward since the printer thinks that the endstops are triggered. Not too sure about this one, I'm thinking maybe a firmware issue?

The nozzle is moving diagonally? Sounds like you don't have corexy movement enabled in the firmware.

You always have to home first before moving the nozzle. Wherever the nozzle is when powered up thats where it thinks home is so it won't let it move back

Solved both issues. The diagonal movement was solved by adjusting the height of the pulley gear. One was far too high and was impeding movement. Once it was leveled out the print head moved perfectly.

As for the steppers, I had the endstops inverted in the firmware. Simple fix there

I've got the printer going right now and it doesn't look half bad for the first print.

This comment has been deleted.

I am a Chinese
More concerned with The precision and speed of the machine,
Can you tell me?
My English is not good, use translation software

This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.

I'm looking at upgrading my DBot to a 300 x 300 aluminium plate heatbed, heated with a silicon heat mat. I would use the aluminium as the build surface. I was planning on using 6mm aluminium plate but I'm wondering if 5mm would be ok. I'm concerned about warping. I expect temp to get up to 150 deg c.
Any comments?

5mm is more than enough, though when the aluminium sheet is constrained to mount it (screws at the corners), it may still warp slightly (bow in the middle) when heated. You might find you still need glass on top, in which case I'd go for 4mm aluminium (I use 3mm) and glass.

Thanks beepbeep. The reason I'm going to aluminium is to avoid using glass (I just hate those bulldog clips). With aluminium I would countersink the screw holes to have a nice unobstructed printing surface. I wonder if warping could be handled with automatic bed leveling using an inductive sensor?

Yes the clips are a total pain in the ass I have to agree. My rear fan has been completely ripped off a couple of times due to my positioning of them, and because of this they restrict the usable bed area a bit.

I'd be tempted to have glass on top but bond it to the aluminium with some 3M adhesive sheet or some of the thicker thermal adhesive sheet used to hold on heatsinks (the thicker material gives a bit more leeway allow the aluminium to bow whilst not pulling the glass with it) to keep it simple, but what you suggest should work - some people see the mesh compensation thing as less than ideal due to the constant Z movement while printing each layer... Depends if this is a concern to you. I've never used it, but I am interested to hear how it works out if you go for it.

Jul 27, 2016 - Modified Jul 27, 2016

Has anyone tried using a Deltaprintr Mini hotend on this printer?
I'm eagerly printing the parts meanwhile and waiting for the end of the summer to order mechanics & electronics. I'm thinking of trying something different from the "usual" E3D I already have on my RepRap Kossel.

Is this a modified version already done you're looking for:

C/D-Bot Deltaprintr Mini Titan Extruder Carriage

That's my work indeed :)

Jul 28, 2016 - Modified Jul 28, 2016
goldentuna1200 - in reply to nmaggioni

Well that's just too funny... I didn't even notice.

Looks like great work.

Thanks, but most of the credit goes without doubt to ElmoC.

I think it would be fine (would have to design a front carriage and a different part cooling fan design if you need one), but another idea... swap the e3d onto the D-bot and put the mini on your Kossel for the reduced weight and increased print height.

Jul 28, 2016 - Modified Jul 28, 2016
nmaggioni - in reply to beepbeep

Thanks beepbeep, in fact I'm adapting ElmoC's carriage to fit the said hotend.
I'm aiming for a direct drive so I'll be able to print flexible filaments: my Kossel has a rather limited print area, so I'd like to "amp up" the new D-Bot and use it for large/fliexible prints, and the delta as backup or for small objects.

C-Bot E3D Titan Extruder Carriage
by ElmoC

Any luck adapting ElmoC's carriage to fit the E3D?

Curious if anyone with a D-Bot/C-Bot try dual direct drive with expanded carriage or some other modification? Concerned about the added weight on the carriage / v wheels, and added stress to the belts / steppers.

Maybe a titan extruder with two pancake style steppers

Ya I had looked at doing Nema 14s or even the geared ones, althought the short stack Nema 17s I found aren't much heavier than the 14s.

Have considered widening the carriage and placing them on top of it with the shafts facing the front. Or having them face each other and be directly above the chimera, but the weight might be the issue here. Honestly would love to design it as a straight conversion using just the 4 holes from the extruder mount and the two holes from the guide mount, maybe having part of it just rest on the top of the carriage.

I'm thinking of modifying https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modicum-extruder-v1 - it would be a thing of beauty.

I just realized I will lose some extrusion by doing the cuts with the mitre saw (3.2mm per cut). If I reduce the size of the 4 pillars from 520mm to 515mm, would that be ok or will cause any problems?

Blade kerf was already accounted for in the cut diagram

I ordered my pillars precut not realizing blade kerf was accounted for in the plans. Will an exact size of 520mm affect anything?

What do you mean? The legs are supposed to be 520

Sorry, maybe I misunderstood when you said the kerf was accounted for. I see now you meant because of how they are arranged for cuttin. My bad...

Started printing a few parts and it looks like all my holes are going to be too undersized to fit any bolt through. Will investigate some print setting tweaks but otherwise I guess I will be running a drill through my parts.. just hoping this doesn't affect the accuracy of the parts.

powis - in reply to powis

Having good results with Cura vs Slic3r.. I am running a slower speed overall so it is hard to say it was all the software.. rather than the settings.

Would solid core cat5e wire work for the stepper motors in this design since the motors are stationary? I know I have read, if using Cat5 for the steppers at all you should use stranded but I think that was mainly for strain issues in designs with motors that moved. I have a ton of that stuff laying around so I was thinking of using it for this build.

Jul 20, 2016 - Modified Jul 20, 2016
beepbeep - in reply to 3DExtruded

As the wires are 24AWG they can comfortably handle 3.5 amps and the twisted pairs can only be of benefit (assuming the capacitance is not an issue). I like to use cat 5 where I can as similarly I bought a 1000 ft box of it years ago - it makes great speaker cable! My overengineering mentality forbids me to use it for steppers, but I've seen it done frequently by people who really know their stuff without any issues. I try to use it for thermistor wiring where possible.

Thanks for your reply -- I really appreciate it. My biggest concern was about the fact that they were solid core. I think that it will still be ok, as in this application the motors aren't moving. I realize why most people wouldn't use solid core wire for 3D printers in places where the wires need to move a lot but in this application I wanted to make sure that didn't apply.

It will be harder to put into crimp terminals compared to stranded wire, might even break off when you try to crimp on a terminal

Thanks for the response, and for sharing your great work with the community!

Question on upright heights for the z-pillars. I'm going to be using 540mm lead screws from opensource - and it seems quite critical that I get the upright pillar length accurate.

The build guide shows 520mm for the 400mm lead screws, but the C-Bot Cut Calculator (https://mysterious-inlet-87122.herokuapp.com/) would have us cut those at 550mm for a 400mm lead screw.

For a 540 lead screw - the Cut Calc calls for a 590mm cut, but if I add 140mm to the guides' 520mm .. it would be 660mm.

I don't want to cut to long (or it seems my nozzles will be to high) .. or to short and lose build height.

Also - I'm going to be using E3D's chimera/cyclops hot ends, and they seem to be a bit shorter than the E3D v6.

I finally have all my pieces and ready to start cutting - but, I see this as a critical measurement.

Jul 18, 2016 - Modified Jul 18, 2016
beepbeep - in reply to goldentuna1200

The build guide is right for the 400mm lead screw. Add your difference onto the rail heights and get cutting, you will be fine.

With regards to the chimera - it depends how your carriage is laid out, you will want the positioning to be similar to that of the standard V6 to keep the heat away from the printed carriage. In doing this the nozzles should end up very close (within 10mm) of the V6 position. As the lead screws have approx 30mm extra when homed, you will still have 20mm or so to play with.

Good luck with your build!

thanks so much for your info

No worries, I'm about to start a similar build myself - 600mm lead screws with a chimera.

If you want to deviate from the build guide and you are concerned about getting heights just right you should model up the frame and parts in sketchup, autocad, etc and verify everything fits.

I don't really have access to software like those mentioned ... I guess I can try to do a wood model first.

sketchup is free and there is a sketchup model of the printer on the downloads page

ah... each time I've looked at sketchup I thought it was $695 .... I guess that's the Pro version - I just looked again and am downloading - thanks.

No way I'd recommend a program like that, free all the way!

I printed all parts from PetG 100% infill, 0.2 layer height, 4 top and bottom layers and 4 perimeters at 240 degrees print temperature. Mounting parts cracks when i screw to the frame!!! What happens? All parts must be reprint from ABS. Can you help me? What parameters use to print new parts from ABS? Sorry for my english.

Be sure to drill all holes out to the correct diameter before forcing screws through them as this can be a problem too.

Firstly, never print with 100% infill, its not needed, bad practice to use over 60% but I've used up to 90% without issue.

Secondly, you must be tightening things up very tightly if you are cracking PETG. Only part I managed to crack (mines all PETG 90%), was the rear plate for the belt holder. I've since replaced it since I'm using a different carriage but havent cracked that one though.

PETG is fine, just dont over tighten the bolts.

Jul 16, 2016 - Modified Jul 16, 2016

To anyone who's thinking about buying hammer nuts from banggood, I wouldn't. More than half of them were misshapen and you'd probably be better off with square nuts from mrmetric. I ended up paying $13 for maybe, maybe, 80 acceptable nuts, in which case it's better just go with Misumi T-nuts for the best quality.. Too bad they don't make the square nuts a little wider for better contact with the slots.

I've had no major problems with drop in T-nuts from Banggood, AliExpress or other Chinese suppliers like RobotDigg.. All of the drop in, quarter turn, hammer style T-nuts I've bought have a variability in the height of the neck area that protrudes into the slot area. This can cause a problem with parts that have raised channels to engage in the slot - sometimes the tnuts bottom out. I've been using them for several years and I realized early on that parts needed to be modeled with a sufficient relief area around the hole for the t-nut to accommodate this. Most pre-assembly t-nuts have this neck area also, and can't be used with raised channels on the printed parts without risk of bottoming before engaging the extrusion.

Personally, I prefer to use the quarter-turn tnuts in all of my aluminum extrusion builds. They don't stick or jam into the extrusion like square nuts can. They are simply more versatile and make assembly much faster. The only real issue with them is that you sometimes can't tell if they have turned and engaged when tightening because there is almost no "feel". I've mostly solved that problem by applying a small spot of blue Loctite or Vibra-Tite VC-3 (better choice) to the tip of the threads. This provides lots of drag so you can feel when the nut turns and engages in the extrusion. In a pinch, standard silicone sealant on the threads can also work well.

Jul 19, 2016 - Modified Jul 19, 2016
beepbeep - in reply to kabar03

I got a couple of packs of these. I wouldn't trust them for the main frame assembly (not enough surface area in contact with the rails for me), but they are fantastic for attaching things like spool holders, ramps box, the power switch holder, or any accessories you want to fit after the fact.

You can get M5 square nuts in different sizes. I have some which will pop in and out of the extrusion and some which totally wedge in there... I use the larger ones for the frame assembly, though they are fiddly to get in as it's such a tight fit.

The square nuts are a little more narrow than T nuts but the benefit is that they can usually be put into the slot after the frame is assembled

The T-nuts are drop in, not even a tapping needed.

Im new to 3D printing - very new - I find it fascinating and have spent the day (almost) browsing thingiverse.
I would like to print this unit out which seems straight forward.
However, can anyone pointing me to where I can order all the hardware?

spauda01 has provided links in the BoM.

Jul 16, 2016 - Modified Jul 17, 2016

Oh yeah also kinda adding to lesterljw's question, also any guide on doing a 300x300 bed?
-edit nvm its in the PDF at the appendix.

Thanks for your effort to have this nice design and setup and putting all the info together. I am planning to build a D-Bot now but thinking to go for 400x300 bed, about the V-slot rails length am i just have to based on the 300mm length + additional 100mm?

still waiting on all my ordered parts from china.
anyone in the Phoenix area know or can print the stls for this for a price? I have a M3D printer and it will take weeks to print all the pieces.

Download the parts, visit https://www.3dhubs.com/ and upload the stl files.
You'll find a selection of available hubs that can provide a printing service in your area, or posted from further away if necessary.

What program did you use to create the diagrams throughout the build guide?

Sketchup with a free rendering plugin

FYI to those using a 24v 15amp power supplies, after about 6 weeks of use an internal thermistor is likely to blow out from high heat. This is because the supplies are cheaply made and the thermistor is only rated for about 6amps assuming you will not be using all 15 amps regularly. Keep this in mind when making the decision to use a 24v heated bed.

FYI for anyone ordering hardware fasteners from Mr. Metric, use the code METRICWORLD now until July 31st for 20% off online order. I don't work for them but figured it would save some of you a little cash. I didn't personally try the code.

what is the squarebackground on ur bed do u have the file or where can u buy it ?

It is just printed on the heated bed circuit board by the manufacturer

Something I don't understand is that to find the D-Bot on thingiverse, if I search for "D-Bot" I never see the original D-Bot listing. I have to find it through my bookmarks, my liked items, or by parts listed as being remixes of parts for the D-Bot. Just seems weird.

That aside, I have a frame assembled, but I need to order some steppers, a build platform, and some stepper drivers.

Really excited to get the printer up and running! Thanks again for all the really awesome work you put into this design, Spauda!

I think thingiverse search is using the retro google logic where '-' means return only searches without the term after, so D-Bot actually returns everything for 'D' without the word 'bot' in it.

If you literally search for "d-bot" including the " " then it will be first.

What is the best way to extend the length of the heating element's blue braided wire on the E3D v6?

Solder some more wire on the end?

Thanks much appreciated advice.

So I'm currently building this and opted for the 24V power supply are there any things to consider when hooking up the electrical I'm using the electrical diagram that was provided for the build that uses a 12V power supply. I don't want to burn anything up I didn't take into account the fan I bought as its 12V and will smoke for sure. Not very good at electronics and am reaching out for advice and build tips?

You can power everything off of 24 volts directly if you use the correct components - heatbeds, hotends, fans, controllers, etc are all available in 24 volt versions.
I'm using a RADDS board (plugs into 32 bit Arduino Due) which has a MOSFET output that is rated for 15 amps at 24 volts. It can power a large 12" x 12" 360 watt heatbed directly. No SSR needed.
Stepper motors have much better performance on 24volts - especially with low inductance motors and suitable stepper drivers.

powis - in reply to KDan

Any ideas for a good budget 24V controller?

Use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU to power everything but the bed. Use the 24v supply to power the bed and the aforementioned converter. Bolt the converter to one of the aluminum rails for heat dissipation

How much plastic do you need for it?

At least one 1kg spool

Thank you

any idea to why when the Y axis goes home it triggers the endstop and doesn't want to stop ? :(

Before a print or when controlling it from a pc? What software are you using?

im just using pronterface to dial it in atm.... i have tried it in simplify3d ... same thing..... its acting as if there is no endstop at all.... all the other ones are fine

Click the endstop with your finger, make sure the light goes out. I'm not sure about pronterface but in rep host, you have to input bed shape and origin point so it know where it should be homing to.

yeah light goes out ok.... i have wired it using the 3 pins straight to the board rather than in your diagram... could it have something to do with that ?

Check your end stop placement on your board. You could have them connected to the wrong pins.

I don't understand what you mean

i have wired up the x and y axis end stops up with 3 wires in each to the board, you have the positive wires and neg wires from both switches joined to save wire routing...... mines just wired up a little bit differently

That shouldnt matter as long as you are still connected to the proper pins, it just saves a bit of wire.

If you have some time to spare, I don't think it would take too long to download repetier host and set it up like I have mine, that way we are comparing apples to apples and we can see if it is maybe a hardware problem or just a difference in pronterface. Instructions are in the build guide section 12

let me have a play about with it ..... i will swap it with another endstop just incase... then i will wire it same as your diagram.... just incase

i appreciate the offer and if i dont get it fixed i will take you up on your offer if thats ok ?

thanks :)

Rep host is a free program and making software changes is easier than swapping hardware or rewiring things. Just an idea.

I dont know that i did but its ok now ... i swapped the switches over and back again ...works a treat ! doing my first print as i speak !... need to calabrate my E3D Titan extruder but looks good ! will update my images when i get a sec :)

thanks again for all your help... and great printer dude !

i tried the M119 to see if it is triggering and it is as it should

Might you have had the end stop plugged into the wrong pins for 'min' or 'max' endstop?

no ... dont think so... i only changed over the switches and it worked fine .... as long as its working im happy :)

Does anybody know a method to disassemble the wheels once the bearings are in there? I want to change to metal shims but the bearings are impossible to budge.

where'd you get your metal shims?

I just inserted a screwdriver at an angle through one side so it rested against the inner race of the opposite side bearing and lightly tapped it out. It might depend on the exact tolerance of the bearings you have

This worked perfectly, thank you!

Use a vice to hold the OD of the wheel and an ~8mm lock neck socket and tap out the bearings.

This doesn't seem to work due to the inside rim running round the middle of the inside of the wheel between the bearings, but thanks for the suggestion.

Is there a Facebook group for this printer. I'd like to get together with some other UK builders to get a parts list together.

A FB group would be awesome, I have built one myself and also from the UK

Jul 5, 2016 - Modified Jul 5, 2016
PJ79_Alpha - in reply to MontagueFlange

Just a quick update for UK builders: Here's a cheap source for the square nuts.

See below

Cheers. Got a bit too excited there...

There's a facebook link somewhere on this page.
Here's a uk forum for D-bot building - https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=29723769

Jul 5, 2016 - Modified Jul 5, 2016
PJ79_Alpha - in reply to spauda01

Arrgh! You found us! :D
Wondered why there were plenty of guests viewing that section. Hope you don't find our scrabbling around too hilarious :)

There is also a Facebook group-: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1711323699127948

Montague, most of the parts are easy to find and we can help you out with all that no problem in the Overclockers thread. Only thing we're finding hard to get hold of over here are the correct square nuts.

I tried to register so I could say hello and offer help but registration criteria seem to be pretty strict. Feel free to message me here with any questions you have from across the pond.

I really do appreciate you taking the time to try joining to help us out. You'd be incredibly welcome there. Really.

What was the issue with registration?

Itried signing up and it kept me in limbo for a few days then I got an email saying -
'Unfortunately your registration at Overclockers UK Forums did not meet our membership requirements. Therefore your registration was deleted.'
Probably because I'm not a proper Brit.

We have members from all around the world, so I can't see that being an issue.
I'll get in touch with an admin and we'll what we can do to sort it out.

Does the D-bot's firmware use Marlin's bang-bang mode for bed heating?

So it just uses the default PID mode?

Yes there are more details in the build guide

A friend recommended this for me, and I was immediately hooked, and I want to do this build as a summer project :)
But...I want to ramp things up a bit, and expand this to a 50x50x60cm build area, for a special project I always wanted to do.
like a, first time a ...... is 3d printed :)

I am a Modelmaker so building is no problem for me, but the electronics side is a bit hazy for me, with the amount of options available.
And the first burning question is, do you think the electronics and stepper motors can handle such a frame ?
or can you suggest a upgrade that I can go for, I really also want to try a Volcano nozzle and print big fast, that's also why I think the electronics might not handle the faster load ?
I don't mind spending a little more on more sturdier electronics.

I already made the choice that the z-stage will have a slide rail on all 4 side pillars with the two lead screws in the middle on bot sides.
and change to a 24V setup for the amount of 2.85mm material I already have.

If you really want a build area that big you'll need increased rigidity. I've been working on a few mods to the original C-Bot that has been very effective for that: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1629139

If you already have the bottom 2020 extrusions it should be trivial to change the parameters for the bottom corners

SpiffBot CoreXY 3D Printer

Hey, I'm already watching your build :)
I haven't ordered any material yet, but I am confident that I can make the frame rigid enough, with your info and others :)
The enlarged Ultimaker I did, already had problems with vibrations, but the V-frames will solve a lot, and maybe adding sidewalls or crossbars will do the trick.
Also my z-bed will be supported in all 4 corners of the frame, this will also increase stability a lot :)

I will first print most if not all the parts, and slowly, after some running hours adapt any problem areas and maybe convert them to metal parts.

What I'm less confident about is getting the correct electronics together, and have it all work together :)

Try the Cbot link in the description, it has better parts for more support on bigger frames. I don't think bed sizes beyond 300x300 are a good idea.

Can you give a hint why the larger bed would be a bad idea :)
the length of the belts ? rigidity ?

Depends how much time you're prepared to wait for a print... If a week per print is okay, by all means go large.

I already have an enlarged Ultimaker with double height, and I already make prints that last up to 2-4 days,
so that is not an argument :)

The objects I want to print will be finished afterwards, and are models without much detail, more smooth surface shapes, so the bigger printser will be perfect for these, and adding a Volcano hotend will sped up things even more :)

uglybob - in reply to Xeno

The issue going large is more to do with the bed support on 2 leadscrews, the C-bot uses 3. Going bigger again would also raise its own issues.....

This is a big printer...

So wish I had the skills to build one of these.

I thought the same thing... but ultimately, its not that hard. Only thing is getting the profiles cut but apart from that, its fairly easy. Take your time, find a local maker hangout and get help where needed.

The instructions are very good too and will help you a lot along he way.

Getting the metal cut would be the big problem. No where near me for any of that. We don't have maker hangouts over here :(

You don't have access to a neighbor's miter saw? With a decent blade it cuts through the aluminum extrusions like butter.

Nope. I live in flats in a tiny village in Wales. No shops or places to get this sort of stuff done.

Ooznest the V-slot supplier in the UK cut to length for you. That's what I did.

You can buy the v-slot and have it cut here: http://ooznest.co.uk/V-Slot/Linear-Rails

Nice thanks :)

I actually went to a shop fitter to get my extrusion cut.. cost me $20. They cut alu extrusions for display cases and the like.

Jul 2, 2016 - Modified Jul 2, 2016

I'm having weird issues with homing. The x and z axis works fine. For some reason when I home the y axis, it doesn't retract like the othet two. It just hits the endstop and stops. It's suppose to hit the endstop, retract a little and slowly home again. Tried changing the retract distance but no dice.

Upgraded Marlin to RC6. Moved the Y endstop to the front (I like having my home at 0,0,0).

I'm not sure which did it (or both), but everything appears working as intended.

I notice that when I move my Z up its nice and quiet. Moving the Z down however, creates a lot of squeezes and high pitches. Tried spraying it with teflon dry film lubricant. Kinda helped, but not really. Anyway use a different lube?

Mine does the same at high speeds but fine any other time. For me I think its more the tolerances and the leadscrew nut material. Mine was advertised as copper.. not sure if it is or brass like most.

Ya, its definitely not as "tight" as I would like it to be (as compared to my PTFE/delrin nut on my other printer). I was tempted to get the PTFE nut to see if it would help, but not at $12/each from China.

Yeah.. i did consider these as well...would be a nice setup though.


Got a pair of antibacklash nuts. Going to see if this helps.

Can you provide more details, or maybe a video?

The problem is homing with the y axis.

With both the X and Z, homing works fine. That is, it would first move towards and hits the endstop, retract back (5mm is default) then moves back to the endstop more slowly.

But for some reason, when the Y axis homes, it just moves towards the y endstop, triggers it, and stops. It doesn't do the second, finer homing like the other two axis. I have no idea why it does this. The endstop works fine, otherwise it would just keep moving if it didn't. I even swapped the endstop itself.

Something is just weird with firmware, or my RAMPS board is defective. I even changed the adv configs so the retract distance is larger (10mm). The other two axis again behaves appropriately, but the Y just triggers the endstop and stops.

I'm going to swap the RAMPS for my spare Rambo 1.3 and see if my board is defective.

I'm assuming you can drive the Y axis in both directions? ie: for some reason the motor only works in one direction, hence why it wont move back and re home? Throwing it out there.

All the axis have no problems moving in both directions.

Cool assumed you would have checked but had to ask :)

I moved up to RC6 of Marlin due to issues which resolved it all for me. Plus I could use E1 for the second Z stepper motor.

That's a good idea. I'll try that next.

I think RC6 added to have 2 z axis end stops.. one for each side so both motors can stay in sync. I havent done it myself but may in the future. I need to get my heat bed mount fixed so I can use the whole thing.

In figure 19 it looks like the Z stop is on the wrong side but it is correct in the pictures below it.

The picture is correct... might want to have a closer look. :)

Question on the ramps enclosure fan - in the BOM it looks like it is showing a 40mm fan, but the enclosure file you reference (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320) it is using a 60mm fan.

Obviously if we use that enclosure we'd need a 60mm, but is there another enclosure that we would use the 40mm fan in your BOM?

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure for Vslot

The 40mm fan in the bom is just for a generic fan for board cooling

Should I be concerned that the gantry is out of square with the frame? The frame is square, but when the left side of the gantry wheel plate is flush up against the left idler assembly, the right is off by about 1/2". I can drop that down to about 1/4" by pulling the frame out of square on the left side (The left side of the frame ends up at 14.125", where as the right is 14".)

Are your rails cut accurately? Did your printed parts come out clean? Loosen the bolts that hold the Hbar ends to the gantry rail and retighten evenly

My problem ended up being that my belts were too tight, and one was slightly tighter than the other causing it to pull the one side.

I am having this issue also but before belt tightening. I'll be disassembling the gantry tonight to get it square and post results.

I'm planning to do a larger build - 400x400 or 500x500 ... is there any reason I couldn't use the 76oz stepper motors in the BOM. Or should I get some 84oz motors.

If I get a different motor - do I need to configure them/tune them etc?

Printers with beds larger than 300x300 are very impractical, even with a volcano extruder large prints which take up most of the bed would take several days to print and if the power went out or you had a layer shift all that work would go to waste. If you printed small stuff you would be wasting huge amounts of power heating a giant bed you don't need. The larger and heavier the bed gets, the harder it is to keep it level and stable and with longer belts and a bigger XY gantry prints will have ringing artifacts. If you want to print giant objects just make them in pieces and assemble. Biggest size I would recommend anyone going on this style printer is 300x300x600 and that's only if you really know what you are doing and you build it well.

But back to you original question, I dont know.

Thank you for your experience and advice.

how many of those chain liks did u need ?

Is there any reason you have to use the ~1/4" spacers with the wheels? I'm currently on the Z axis, and I'm finding them difficult to thread onto the bolt. I can drill them out if needed, but I also noticed that once I adjust the wheels to be tight, they're no longer butted up against the spacers anyway.

That doesn't sound right. If you havent already, post your build by clicking 'I made one' and upload some pictures of the problem areas

I bought some aluminum spacers at the hardware store. I'll get photos up later this evening.

finally starting the build but am noticing the shims and spacers are pretty tight on the m5 screws, to the point where the spacers and wheels need to be threaded on. Should I open the diameter of the part and print again or is that ok?

I had to increase the ID by 0.4 mm and decrease the OD by 0.3 as well to have a better fit and better wheel roll. It also made installing the wheels less PITA.

Depends on the accuracy of your printer but I just drilled mine out to the right size.

Everything has fit perfectly and snug except for these... I could probably drill out the spacers but the shims would be really tough...

I used metal shims that come with the wheels. Was a kit of wheel, bearings, shims and locknut.

You are right, would be pita to drill those. If you want to reprint, scale in the x/y by say.. 5%? see how it goes.

i just used a hot solder to melt the excess plastic away instead of trying to drill or spending the time reprinting.

I have been trying to build a D-Bot and have been having issues with the v-wheels wheels binding and not rolling along the v-slot. In an attempt to isolate the issue I placed a wheel, spacers and nut on an m5 bolt and tightened it up. When attempting to rotate the wheel i noticed that even though the spacers were transferring the clamping force to only the inner race of the bearing the wheel was no longer smoothly turning. I ordered metal spacers to put between the bearings instead of the printed spacers but am out of ideas.

Is this a common hurdle that everyone had to overcome?

Yes it was definitely a pain in the ass to get all four wheels to make full contact and not have it bind. I think I'm still having some minor problems. Right now its good enough until I decide to take everything apart and redo it.

Jun 29, 2016 - Modified Jun 29, 2016
beepbeep - in reply to bzillins

As everybody sets the distance between bed and nozzle differently, some people squishing the first layer down, others having it virtually floating, there's little chance that the printed spacers are going to work for everybody. Best thing to do is print them, caliper them, adjust and reprint until you get the size exact.

I'm thinking of swapping to the metal ones too. Are these the ones? Just the regular mini v wheel shims? http://ooznest.co.uk/V-Slot/Shims-Spacers/Mini-V-Precision-Shim

Those are the ones I bought, I'll let you know how they worked Saturday

Did you try them?

I replaced mine too - they make a world of difference.

I did and they worked very well. I damaged a few bearings on removal so you may want to have a few spares around.

If your shims are slightly too thin, they will allow the bearings to bind up. I had good luck with printed shims but others prefer metal shims

I cleaned up the spacers and probably undersized them accidentally, that makes perfect sense.

Thanks for the quick reply!

My wheels had to have 2 shims in the middle, not 1. After digging around, the website i purchased them from mentioned it too. Always wondered why they gave an extra shim when I bought them :)

Is anyone else having problems with the STL files?
And are these the latest ones?

Anyone out there using a chimera or dual extruder set up on their D-Bot? If so are you using dual bowden extruders?

Also if anyone has their D-Bot enclosed would love to see that!

Can I use E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit 3.00mm Bowden (24v) with this? All my current filament is PLA 3.00 mm
Also what about Bondtech QR Universal Extruder - 3.00mm?

I suppose if you had a 24v power supply, you might need to modify the extruder bracket. I've never tried 3mm filament so I'm not sure what other changes you would need.

Confused about changing filament using this bowden system.

I'm used to the direct drive extruder and I heat up my nozzle, push a bit of filament and then pull back - which pulls everything out of the hotend, then load and push the new filament through the nozzle until I can see it coming out. Then purge the old by extruding new.

Do you pull out the ptfe tube at the hotend side when changing filament? - Or - how is the best method for changing filaments?

Heat up the hot end.
Manually retract the filament by using the feed knob or command via repetier host or other program to retract 1000mm, which should be more than plenty to get out all the way out.
Insert the new filament, manually feed it forward or command the extruder to feed via software depending how long your bowden tube is.
Keep feeding filament 10mm at a time until it flushes out the old color and the filament is coming out at the new color solidly.

Does anyone know where to source a flat aluminum plate for a 300x300mm bed? I've looked at 12x12+ aluminum cast plate (Mic-6) but it only comes in 1/4" at the thinnest, which is pretty heavy stuff.

Why not a thinner aluminum plate as a heat spreader with glass on top to keep it flat

I'm worried the glass will warp over time when big prints press it onto the aluminum plate.

That won't happen unless you get really crappy glass or you are heating it to like 500C or something crazy

Hanging around /r/3dprinting I've heard of some cases of the glass warping along with the aluminum bed in normal conditions.

This comment has been deleted.

I use a 3/8" thick MIC6 plate (for some reason it was cheaper than the 1/4" plate) and it heats up quickly and does a pretty good job. It probably doean't come thinner than 1/4" because they can't guarantee flatness below that

Jun 26, 2016 - Modified Jun 26, 2016
geoxile - in reply to spiffcow

Can 2 typical nema17 motors really support that weight? That must be over 6lb, and another 3+lb from the aluminum extrusions.

Yep. I even use bed correction instead of springs so its constantly moving. It works fine.

Are you still running 1/16 stepper drivers? If not, think 1/32 would make difference?

Created a Facebook group to discuss this excellent printer


Facebook is okay for kids posting photos of cats... I think Google groups is more suited to grown up things.

Would you mind if I created a Facebook group for this excellent printer?

Can you send me the path for that group when you have it set up? Or post it here

Go ahead

cool...can I use your pics? I'm in the process of making mine still

sure, just give credit and link back to http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer
Jun 24, 2016 - Modified Jun 24, 2016

I'm having aweird issue with slicing, specifically, so far, on the right motor mount. It's creating some mid-air triangles like there's hidden geometry in the STL file. It's highlighted yellow as a bridge in this shot:

Any insight?

Jun 25, 2016 - Modified Jun 26, 2016
KDan - in reply to Kittera

Change layer height very slightly in Simplify 3D. For example, if you are printing a primary layer height of 0.2000mm, change it to 0.2001. That will fix the problem. This is a known bug in Simplify3D ver 3.0 that comes up occasionally. It may have been fixed in later versions.

However, some of the parts definitely have geometry problems. I'm attempting to edit the Right Rear idler and it is a mess. The Left Rear is OK. I'll be moving on to the motor mounts next. I'm working on modifying all the parts with extrusion channels to allow the use of hammer t-nuts without the risk of them bottoming out. I am really disliking the square head nuts. They bite into the extrusions and sometimes remain stuck when loosened. Makes it very difficult to make fine position adjustments.

Is this in Simplify3D?

I've just run the latest right motor mount through my copy of S3D (Version 3.1.0) without any issues. I used a 0.2mm layer height with 30% infill. If that helps.

Is there a wiring diagram and parts info for using a 120vac heated bed? Just not sure how to put that together.

If you are unsure, then don't do it, Stick with 12 or 24v systems. 120vac isnt something you want to play around with if you are unsure.

What he said

I get what you're both saying .. though I'd be unsure of doing any of this build without spauda01's excellent build guide.

so - if I stay away from the 120vac - what is the wiring diagram for using a 24v heat pad?

Jun 20, 2016 - Modified Jun 20, 2016
uglybob - in reply to goldentuna1200

Same as the build guide except with a DC-DC SSR and a 24V power supply, which is what I have done. And obviously the ground live etc will go to the 24v power supply and not to 120vac. Little common sense is required.

Is there a particular SSR that's recommended for a 12V 270W heater? I can't seem to find any DC-DC SSRs that would safely sustain 23A (I'm skeptical of these chinese ones on amazon and ebay).

I've heard these Fotek SSRs are junk and can be dangerous.

If you allow them to get too hot and overheat. You can get heatsinks and fans for them too.

At that current level, you might just go with a mechanical relay and control it in bang mode. Use thick enough wires and make sure all connections are strong, that's a lot of current. Maybe consider a 24v or 120vac bed

I am getting a 110VAC heater in, just some cheap silicone one from China, not sure about the quality. Besides the added danger of mains VAC the printer would need an extra big enclosure to fit my PSU (an ATX PSU) and also fit a second plug separately for the 110VAC heater. It would be a big thing to print before I can put the printer together. I guess if I can't find a SSR for this 12V I'm going to use the 110VAC heater. I don't think I could stand the clicking of a mechanical relay for hours on end.

So those relays are dangerous, but your chinese low quality mains heater is okay?

Sounds like you'll be burning the house down.

The 12V silicone heater beds all come from China too. And for the same power they use significantly higher current.

Im tossing up wether its worth going for a 300mm x 300mm heated bed of the 300mm x 200mm. Does anyone know if the dimensions listed in the build guide will allow for the larger bed to fit with ample space for the x carriage to move about?

I was also wondering if its worth printing in PETG over ABS or PLA, I noticed that allot of people in the comments section have used PETG on their build. Its just that I have some spare roles of ABS that I should probably use.

I've used ABS and printed on a Wanhao i3 which is supposedly incapable of it, so if you can print ABS then I would recommend doing so.

However, note the shrinkage of ABS will cause some parts to fit very tightly. I had to reprint all of the motor mounts scaled up by 2% in order that I could fit the motors without the mounts snapping or bowing... So scale up!

If you are capable of printing ABS with good quality then go for it, it's just easier for others to use PLA or PETG.
The frame sizing diagram leaves enough room for the nozzle to reach every corner of the bed and the alternate frame diagram is just 100mm deeper.

Jun 19, 2016 - Modified Jun 19, 2016
Calum736 - in reply to spauda01

Thank-you spauda01, I didn't even realize your awesome build guide had the dimensions for a 300mm bed. I have gone ahead and ordered all the extrusions I need. Can't wait to start building!

Hi, just wanted to say I'm doing some research for my own CoreXY design and this is incredibly well designed! Nicely thought out, nicely implemented, very clean and concise, so very well done! I'd use it myself except one or two things don't meet my criteria. Very impressed though :)

Just curious, what are the couple of things?

Sorry, that's what I'm adding in my design!

  1. Direct dual drive instead of Bowden, just personal preference.
  2. Experimenting with using belt-wire couplings to reduce stretch.
  3. Experimenting with a 25:1 gearbox to give 8 micron resolution without micro stepping (personal preference, micro stepping seems illogical to me)
  4. Using the 4 V-slot pillars as linear guides instead of adding rods. As there are 4 should give much better stability too.
  5. Guess this isn't really an upgrade but I'm adding my full graphic screen. Small things and all that rot.
  6. Unfortunately going to wire crossover due to symmetry and stability along XY carriage rails. Made this lovely little crossover system that uses two small canted bearings to pass the wires smoothly over each other. Also added in the tensioning mechanism to the back idlers. It's a shame, I really loved the dual line style.

I just finished printing the main frame parts. I'm heading back to my hometown tomorrow for a few weeks (away from printer :( ) but that's where I plan to set up my printer, so will see how it all goes.
Also putting out a very brief video skimming on the topic tomorrow, can see it here: https://youtu.be/doZjsvfNmXA
Don't expect the link to activate till 11AM UST.

In the build guide it goes through the process of running PID autotune for the bed. I understand PID should not be used if you are driving the bed through a relay (as the relay really doesn't want to try and deal with PWM modulation).

Does anyone have thoughts on this?

You're thinking of a mechanical relay, not a solid state relay.

Ah cool thanks.

I did a diff between your Marlin zip and the same version directly from Marlin, 99% of the changes happened at configuration.h, is that correct?

Also, I see there is a new version of Marlin (1.1 RC6) that does include support for CoreXY, have you tried that one? Any improvements for us? :-)


Hi There,

I have been running on 1.1 RC6 for three weeks now and all seems to be working fine. I just compared the configuration.h and made changes and adjustments where needed. The only other change I made was in pins.h for the button direction on my LCD controller.

Only change I noticed was that the homing issue was resolved and I can home any axis while any of others are homed.

Anybody looked at the E3d heated bed and would you need a separate power source for it? I like the option to only heat zones based on the print seems much more efficient but not sure if the ramps can handle that sort of control.

I looked at it briefly before, I don't think it heats in sections it just uses traces of varying impedance to give a more even all over temp

What are your thoughts on this bed? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Improved-200x300mm-Dual-purpose-12V-or-24V-Heatbed-PCB-3D-Printing-reprap-USA/331881520007

I like it because it has zip tie strain relief built into the board.

Very true spauda01. The tracks are of differing size to allow a more even temperature even at the edge of the heated bed.

To quote e3D:

"We tested quite a few bed designs and types, but they all had the same critical problem: the temperature at the edges was significantly cooler than the measured temperature in the centre. This means that despite having your bed set and reading 110C to print ABS comfortably in the middle of the bed, the temperature towards the edges could be as low as 95C and this means parts printed at the full extents of the bed are going to suffer from warp and detaching from the bed.

Our solution was to provide more power at the outer regions of the bed in order to compensate for the lower temperatures being measured there. By using slight variations in the width of the PCB heater traces we are able to selectively provide more power to regions that would otherwise be running cooler. This results in a much more even temperature distribution over the surface of the bed."

oh i thought for some reason it was like the new gmax bed that heated in sections. But also seemed like a decent price if it is a quality part like most of E3s stuff is. I know they want an arm and a leg for the gmax bed.

I had been going to use the heated bed spcified in the BOM but I changed my mind when I heard about the e3D bed. The quality of the PCB heater is equal to or better than MIL spec PCBs, and I've worked with many of those.

so are you converting everything to 24v because that seems to be the biggest drawback to me. What if any are the ways around this. Can you isolate the bed. and still control it via the ramps. Seems way complicated....

No I'm not converting to 24V. I'm using a separate 24V PSU just for the bed. I'm using 12V for everything else including switching the SSR to control the 24V to the bed.

i don't see any amp ratings on the e3d bed. Does anyone know the specs

Filastruder tested it with the following result:

"Electrical data: 24v nominal (22.9v actual), tested at 10.01 amps at 25C (Fluke 179)."

Each of the Molex connector pins are rated at 5A and the bed uses four of them for the power connection.

Is the dc-dc relay in the BOM enough for this application you think. Looks like it is 40amp and up to 23v in and 60v out

Cool that works i already have a 15a power supply in the shop. Hope that will be enough.

Do yourself a favor and buy the SSR below instead of a cheap one. The cheap ones typically have an on resistance of 0.1 Ohms which doesn't seem like much but will rob 10% of your power input as heat. In a 24V 15A test I setup with one it was 79 to 80C at the huge heat sink. The one in the link has an on resistance of 0.006 Ohms and barely even gets warm at those current levels.


This may be a dumb question, but what units should we use with the stl files for the printed parts? It doesn't say anywhere in the build guide, and I tried mm, but it looks way too small.

Thanks, the parts I printed were just smaller than I expected. I really like your design, but I have one more question. Did you have an issues with the straightness tolerances of the vslot? Looking at the rails I received, they don't look very straight when I lay them on a straight surface.

I put them down on a wood table. Turned out the table was really warped, not the extrusion.

That's not good. Try other surfaces and complain if they don't look good

Dear designer thanks for share your design. Can I use rumba board to your design if its possible can you explain me how to configure codes? Thanks

Not the designer but have experience with Marlin.
If he's provided code, use it as it EXCEPT at the top of configuration.h where it says "define motherboard" replace the board he's using with the relevant name from the boards.h for the Rumba. Give that a whirl.
Basically all it needs is to know what connectors to send the signals to, so telling it what board you're using will let it do the rest. I hope this helps :)

hola, si quisiera poner una cama de 300 x 300 mm, que tengo que modificar?

Ver el final del documento Guía de creación de los cortes de carril que necesita para 300x300 .

What cable is acceptable to connect the heater cartridge to the RAMPS? The silicon wire that comes with the hotend isnt long enough to make it all the way.


Jun 15, 2016 - Modified Jun 15, 2016
beepbeep - in reply to uglybob

I think hot end heaters are generally around 40W, so 40W / 12V = 3.33 Amps

I've used 18 gauge (only because I bought 200m a few years ago so still trying to use it up) though 20 would also be fine (and still suitably over-spec'd).

Handy table: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

The link in the BOM for a few Hardware items are broken. Can anyone tell me if these alternatives will work?

M3 Socket Bolt, 20mm: http://www.mrmetric.com/M10842
M3 Socket Bolt, 25mm: http://www.mrmetric.com/M11563
M5 Socket Bolt, 40mm: http://www.mrmetric.com/M11220

The M5 is also very expensive, about 3x the cost in the BOM. Where can we get them cheaper?

just send them an email or call they will get you setup. the guys at mrmetric are very helpful

If you call them they can get the ones in the BOM.

Thanks! Some of the items they were getting in stock soon so he made a note in my order to send them out when they arrive.

How can I modify the firmware to not use endstops? thanks.

I remixed another spool holder to suit the D-bot here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1625705

Spool Holder for 20mm V-Slot/D-Bot/C-Bot - 30 x 100

Do you think the square nuts make any difference from the misumi T-nuts? I guess t-nuts are supposed to be a better fit for the slots of 2020 extrusions but does that matter?

Do you guys think something like this would work at all?

M4 T Slot nut

I have tried the three (3) of them. The square-nuts from Mr. Metric are too small contact surface, as said before. The T drop-ins and the T Sliding nuts have an issue when connecting plastic parts that have the V-Slot elevated profile. Remember that both the nuts and plastic parts have elevated profiles to compensate the extrusion slot empty space. When both profiles are in touch there won't be enough movement to tight the plastic part, extrusion and nut ending with loose joints.

I ended sanding each T Sliding nuts to remove the elevated profile achieving a better surface contact. If I knew that before I would have bought something like this ones:


Yeah i think I'm stuck sanding the nuts to... though wouldn't sanding the plastic be easier...

Have you tried putting the T-nuts in flipped? I guess the hammer nuts can't be helped.

The T-nuts (sliding or drop-in) are unable to be flipped upside-down like the square nuts do to their shape. The are made to have the best contact surface used as designed.

Jun 14, 2016 - Modified Jun 14, 2016
geoxile - in reply to rodelvalle

I see, so the printed parts designs have to be changed to get rid of the extrusion for the v-slots?

Are those really a dollar a piece?! Mr. Moneybags over here

Square nuts make a very secure frame, I'm not sure if T-nuts are worth the cost.

Having said that though, I'm doing a second build of the D-bot and have ordered these to try out (were recommended by someone in the comments here - much further down):


My D-Bot is made using entirely those. They're great - and you can add / remove stuff after it's been built :)

I got these, apparently they need to be sanded down as where the eyelet is, it is extruded and bumps into the plastic on the printed parts made to fit the extrusions.

I wondered that from looking at the photo. The nuts I originally got (square nuts 10mm x 10mm x 3mm with no chamfer - totally flat) do a good job but they won't quite fit in as standard, I've been using a bench grinder to chamfer 2 of the lower edges then they fit quite snugly - flat against the extrusion when tightened and can't be popped in or out from the face of the extrusion.

I do about 50 nuts at a time at the grinder to break up the monotony of it... No big deal, but I would love to find something that is both low cost and 'just works'.

Yeah that was by me. I bought them after my concerns with the square nuts from Mr Metric.

I've got a mixture of t-nuts (http://www.makerstore.com.au/product/tee-nuts-25-pack/), square nuts and the drop ins from BG.

IMO: The T-nuts are the best if you can afford it, the drop-ins work better than the square nuts.

(Apologies for not giving you credit by name bob - laziness prevented me scrolling to find it :)

I also saw these on banggood... They look like they'll fit though I'm not 100% sure.


Jun 18, 2016 - Modified Jun 27, 2016
KDan - in reply to beepbeep

They will fit, but they will bottom out on the raised channels on the printed parts just like the hammer nuts. The ideal solution would seem (at first glance) to be to use pre-assembly t-nuts like the ones from openbuilds or like these -


Unfortunately, those have the threads recessed a bit and M5x10 screws can barely reach the threads when a washer is installed. (I have some and tried) M5x12 screws might work great thou if the screw doesn't bottom out in the channel. (UPDATE: It does...)

Ultimately, all of the parts with the raised channels could to be remodeled to allow a hammer T-nuts (or the ones you mentioned) to be used. The raised channel serves a purpose, so it should not be entirely removed - just in the area near the bolt holes. I've modified a few of the original C-Bot files myself, but I haven't seen any easily editable files (such as STEP files) for the D-Bot files anywhere.

UPDATE: I decided to tackle this. I've modified all of the parts that have raised extrusion channels. Hammer T-nuts can now be used without risk of them bottoming out on the raised portion of the printed parts. Modifying STL files was tedious. STP files would have been much easier...
I am planning multiple builds of a modified C-Bot/D-Bot type machine .The Hammer T-nuts are much more versatile, will cut assembly time and aren't that much more expensive than the square nuts (6.5 cents each vs. 4 cents each).

Jun 28, 2016 - Modified Jun 29, 2016
PJ79_Alpha - in reply to KDan

Hi KDan, is there chance that you could upload those modified files if possible?

Edit: Sorry, just noticed you only updated yesterday. No rush :)

When I get back from vacation later this week, I'll post the revised parts. There are quite a few :-)
I also have a lot of totally new parts, which in sum probably constitutes a remix of the machine. The machine isn't printing yet - that's probably at least two to three weeks away. The last component - which I just ordered - is an endless GT2 belt of a specific length.
I don't want to publish any of those parts until the machine is up and running and I can fully document everything.

Totally understandable.
Nice work and good luck with the build :)

Those look a lot better than the first BG link. I too want to know if these will work with the build. I'd be willing to try them out.

I ordered 1 pack to try them out so I can let you know once they arrive.

I didn't order the square nuts yet and just decided to order these instead. Square nuts would be $8 with probably some shipping and tax on top, 4x 50 packs came out to just under $20 with free 6-9 day shipping and no tax. Hope they work!

Square nuts are cheaper and capable of doing the job. t-nuts are better, more surface area on the extrusion, less chance to damage the profile.

Another question. Would there be any upgrades to add dual extrusion?

Look in the remixes

spauda01 - one more HUGE THANKS! for such a fantastic job of putting this together and such an outstanding BOM and Guide. Man - this is great!

LIke most - I'm looking to push this to a larer size - and have used the calculator, etc to figure what I needed.

Couple of questions though:
1 - on the calculator it refers to the Z-Platform: Gantry, and the CoreXY: Gantry, I wasn't sure - but it looks like those corespond to R & Q respectfully on your frame reference diagram. Could you confirm if that is correct?

2 - It seems that most printers out there stay in a similar 'smaller' size. Is that because of the limited size of heat beds or limits on stability and accuracy of going larger?
I guess the question really is ... is there a point where this design won't handle the stabily/speed/accuracy for a given size. e.g. 500x500 bed and 500 lead screw. - what would be largest size (within reason) that this design might handle?

I don't need a heated bed - as I've been using a Lexan (polycarbonate) build plate and don't need heat/hairspray/glue) - so I'm really not limited on what size bed I could make. (link to my build plate thread ref: http://goo.gl/A22fP1)

I'd like to hear the answer to this too

In the BOM it says that the printer has trouble maintaining 100c for ABS. I would like to have the option to print ABS in the future. Are there any alternative heat pads that someone could recommend?

well, for ABS you will likely need an enclosure to begin with. as for the bed, you can go 24V!

Yeah I was planning to build an enclosure once it's running. Have tons of spare acrylic! So just grab a 24V bed heater? I don't know a huge amount about the electronics side of things yet. I DID buy the 12v PSU listed on the BOM already. I'm guessing it won't be able to send the full 24V to the heat pad in this case? If so, I'm wondering what components need to be upgraded to make it work great with ABS?

Running the bed at 24v seems to be outside your skills. Just look at the printer that this page is remixed from, the Cbot. He used a different 8x12 bed and he prints abs

Jun 10, 2016 - Modified Jun 10, 2016
Marksman79 - in reply to spauda01

Thanks for the reply! I did look at the c bot, and noticed that he uses the same 12v power supply that this build uses. A different, more expensive bed but one that can handle 24v just like the one in the D bot. And the wiring diagram is also the same. So what are the changes I would need to make in order to use the D bot bed at 24v? Is it just getting a 24v PSU and soldering the wires to the 24v points on the bed? It seems that the relay is good up to 32v.

And how much of an issue is the heated bed running at 12v as far as ABS printing goes?

There are plenty of beds out there that can reach 100C with 12v, the bed pcb I am using just happens to have a slightly higher resistance than others so it doesn't consume as much power and doesnt get as hot. Running your bed at 24v is more advanced than you think and it involves more than just getting a different power supply and connecting it.

Get a 24V silicone heater mat (Aliexpress has loads, many of which can be made to your specification) and a 24V power supply. You can step down from your 24V power supply to run your electronics at 12V if you don't want two separate power supplies.

I bought my bed from avanti circuits, they have an ebay store and sell a 12x12 heated bed for $48 free shipping, and it can draw up to 20A if I remember correctly, so should heat up quite fast. I plan to mod a 600W PC PSU to supply enough energy to this.

are these the folks you are talking about. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-X-12-Heatbed-Kit-w-Relay-Prewire-and-Thermistor-for-3D-Printing-/262314890386?hash=item3d132f9492:g:kWgAAOSwDuJW1dWd

They recommend an extra powersupply that seems a little overkill if you are not running it at 24v. In the middle of my build but looking at his and the makerfarm 12x12 bed.

That's the one I got, but I bought the relay separately (the one from the BOM), so instead of $69 paid $48. I will just use a 600W PC PSU, and should have plenty of power for this without needing a separate PSU.

I'm considering trying to minimise the Z-axis motor "drift". Would it be worth me taking my 5 steppers and in some way testing them out to try and find 2 which are very closely matched to use for the Z-motors?

Quick question..... how did you bond your cork sheet to the underside of your heated bed ?

Jbweld epoxy

thanks mate :)

Another question. Would there be any benefit in the following modification:

1 - Cut an extra Q piece, and add it to the other side of O and P.
2 - Add extra 8 wheels to that side, plus the printed parts
3 - Move K very close to the center of H and J

Would this add more stability (as now the bed is supported from the 4 corners), or unnecessary bulk? By my calculations, I will have some leftover extrusion, so could potentially use it for this...

Comments are appreciated :-)


Can these V-slot extrusions be replaced by something else? Like normal extrusion or something?
I can't find these where I live and it would cost 96$ to ship if I were to buy them from OpenBuilds, that's too much for shipping!

What country are you in?

The problem is the wheels... V-slot has the profile to mate with the wheels, other standard extrusions do not.

You may have a vendor in your country selling V-slot (we do in the UK), so it's not limited to buying from openbuilds.

Theres a remix that replaces most of the rails with standard Tslot extrusions but some rails would still have to be Vslot, thats just how it is designed.

I bought 1000 square M5 nuts and they don't fit the V-slot. The link from the BOM is dead. Does anyone know the dimensions that the nuts have to fall within to fit?

link in the spreadsheet works fine for me.

Jun 8, 2016 - Modified Jun 8, 2016
beepbeep - in reply to beepbeep

My nuts are 10mm square x 3mm thick. I presume the ones from Mr Metric were 8mm square. If I chamfer two of the edges I can get them to fit... Got a lot of time at the bench grinder coming up :)

Jun 6, 2016 - Modified Jun 7, 2016

Hello, I'm planning to build this dbot. I want to calculate extrusion lengths for 400*400mm bed and planning on using a 500mm lead screw to gain as much z height possible. Will it be okay to use the cbot rework calculator from original cbot page? With offset lead screw option and adding 30mm to the bed width as the calculator suggests? Any suggestions would be really appreciated. Thank You

Hello! What LED controller did you use?

There's a link in the "additional comments" column of the "12v 5050 LED Strip" row. The controller case is easy to pop open to extract the boa