D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01, published

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
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Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

Optional Components

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320
Cable Chain - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167746
Vslot Endcaps - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515
Tubing Clips - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213
Bowden retraction stabilizer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Extruder Manual Feed Knob (small) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:474394
Vslot Channel Cover - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

D-Bot and C-Bot Differences

1) The lead screws and Z motors were moved forward to better lift the print bed from its center of gravity rather than use a fully cantilevered print bed.
2) Increased printable Z height to 330mm (~13")
3) Use of 20mm rails for the bottom sections to save cost and reduce bulk.
4) Various adjustments of printable parts, either to add plastic where it seemed like more rigidity was needed or to subtract plastic where it was not needed.
5) Accessories such as a simplified spool holder a cable chain for bed wiring
6) Relocated endstop mounting to maximize Y travel and utilize default homing scheme.
7) Overall reduction in cost compared to the original bill of materials (2$ square nuts vs 40$ Tnuts, etc.)

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What are the external measurements of the finished build? Thanks!

Hi, I'm having some difficulty homing my printer. The motors travel in the correct direction and the end stops seem to be wired correctly, using M119 I can see the correct ones trigger.
The process at the moment when I home is - Z lowers, X homes to 0 (left hand side) and Z homes to 0.
Y homing does not happen.

Any ideas?

Are you using the marlin file from the downloads page

1 day ago - Modified 6 hours ago
bananas07 - in reply to spauda01

No, RC-07. With the same edits from the one in the download page.

I have just tried the firmware from the downloads page - same deal. The only item that's different in this build is the main board. I'm using a MKS Gen 1.4

SOLVED - Didn't read the wiring diagram carefully enough. I was using Y-min instead of Y-max.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

1sPiRe - in reply to Synsor

all in the build guide

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

Comments deleted.

Hey all!
I am having an issue with my z motors. Here's a video of the problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLY4-qEaIF8.

First off they are really jittery, I have checked the voltage and they seem to be ok there. Also they only go down regardless of the direction I select, I have check all the wiring multiple times and it seems correct. I am at a loss.

Can you give a link to the motors you bought

On the dbot wiring diagram, the motor plugs are R G Y Blu. Yours need to be Blk G R Blu

I have them all in that order and that's when the z motors act strange.

Are your X and Y motors working right?

Did you put jumpers under each stepper driver?

Are all of your firmware settings the same as the default Dbot marlin file?

The X and Y motors work perfectly, I have jumpers under each driver and I am double checking the firmware now to make sure that is correct.

Swap your X and Z stepper drivers and see what it does.

WOW! I can't believe I did not try that. Thank you for your help. That driver is bad, after they are switched the Z motors work perfectly and the X motor has the issues.

Most ramps kits come with 5 stepper drivers, do you have a spare?

I do, that one appears to be a total dud because now my x motor is non responsive. I am going to switch the new driver over to y and make sure it is dead before I order new ones.

Why do you need new ones? dont you have a spare driver?

I do but when I replaced the jittery driver with my spare the motor that the spare driver is on is completely non responsive. I tested my spare on both the X and Y motor which become non responsive respectively which leads me to assume that driver is totally dead.

I still don't understand. Do you have one bad driver or are you killing them as you move them around? In that case something might be wrong with your ramps board or wiring

So the driver (Driver 1) I originally had on my Z motors was jittery. This was confirmed when I switched it with the driver on the X motor. After this switch the Z motors ran perfectly and the X motor now exhibited the jittery behavior that the Z motors had been.

I then replaced Driver 1 with my spare driver (Driver 2), (this is on the x motor, I didn't switch back to Z after the initial swap to test Driver 1) and upon making this switch the X motor does nothing. I switched Driver 2 to the Y motor to confirm and after this switch the X motor responds and the Y motor does not respond.

My conclusion is that Driver 1 has partially functionality but Driver 2 has zero functionality.

I understand. Are you observing any esd handling practices

Also your ramps board should of been totally powered off when changing drivers.

I am and I make sure it is powered off before I change anything.

Comments deleted.
6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago


I'm having an issue with the SSR (dc) and the heatbed. I set the printer on 60°C but it only reach 43°C. I check with the multimeter on each terminals of the heatbed and it shows 6.50 V. Also my SSR is really really hot at the point that i could easily cook an egg on it !

Any suggestions ?

bypass wires on terminal 1 and 2 of the ssr to power the bed directly temporarily from the power supply to verify the psu can supply enough juice.

Did you bolt the ssr to the aluminum frame?

Ok done. i have reached 85°. I use a a computer 500w power supply.

Yes SSR is bolted to the aluminum 2020 vslot.

measure resistance between ssr terminals 1 and 2 when terminals 3 and 4 are being controlled by the ramps, then try again when terminals 3 and 4 are powered directly from the 12v psu (watch polarity)

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

Ok i think i know where you are digging.
Yes you are right, my heatbed cable have a too high resistance.
I put some bigger cable and it works perfectly. The heatbed heat much faster and the SSR is colder now.

Thanks for your help Spauda, and thanks for all your work and advice the printer :)

What size wire were you using?

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

2m awg17

amazing work !!!
But could u provide the .STEP files ???
Would like to make a complete assembly.

Don't have any

Oh thats a pitty!
Maybe some other CAD-formats?

would do me a big favour !

Are there any significant considerations that need to be made when expanding this to 300x300 besides what is listed in the appendix? Will the z axis motors still be sufficient in quantity and power?

Depends how heavy your bed is. If youre just using a 300x300 pcb heater with regular glass its fine. If you use a giant slab of aluminum for a bed it probably wont work

Would that just require more powerful stepper motors then? Or maybe 3x NEMA17s?

I don't know, I can only speak to what works on my printer

I am having a problem connecting to the printer. I do not believe I have a clone it is a Arduino Mega but I am getting the "Communication Timeout - reset send buffer block" error message in Repetier. :/ Please Help. Thank You

Try a different com port maybe

I got it to connect but whenever I use the manual controls the most distance I can go is in increments of 1 if I try 10 the motors squeal and it goes 1. I have tried changing belt tension and alignment and still cant seem to fix it. Any ideas?

sounds like maybe your speeds are set too high

I am looking for info on a design program. Any help please.

Its fusion 360. Phenomenic CAD/CAM with free license for hobbist.

So I've got another Issue, havent been able to solve.... When I slice my prints in Repetier host, they are centered on the build platform.... but when i go to print them .... they print towards the origin corner (back left). I've checked and double checked the printer config to make sure it lines up with the one in the build kit, but can't for the life of me figure out why it's printing back there.

Anyone else have this issue, or have any insight??

Does your driver file have an origin setting?

I'm not sure? Where is that located?

They try to print on the origin or close to it?

Hello! I plan to build a D-bot because I find it really great and a well docuented project. I read of a lot of different improvements over the original design and I'd like to know your opinion about them:

1) if you have a list of the first ones it could help so much
2) I see someone use linear rails instead of the wheels, do you think it will improve the quality so much?
3) I'd like to go direct drive instead of bowden, do you think it will reduce the max speed and quality of the print so much?
4) I see a lot of efforts to stabilize the Z axis (I see even 3 motors to lift the bed!!), do you think it's needed?
5) is it a plan to have a new revision of this design with some improvements (an E-bot maybe?) or it's a complete project without further development? Just to understand if I should wait for the new one :)

Thank you very much for any help!

Maybe D2! E bot's taken! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656792

David will chime in, but here my 2 cents:
1) The remixs are scattered about thingiverse and openbuilds. Just search D-bot and C-bot on thingiverse and browse.
2) The person that did that had not even tried it with the v-wheels first, people like to add their own flavour and I can't blame them as I do too. In this case, you might as well of just redesigned the printer with linear rail rather then mash it into the existing design. It has been shown to work great, but so has the D-Bot. Not needed IMO.
3) It will reduce max speed, but will not change your typical print speeds. Direct will be more prone to ringing at higher speeds, but print quality will be better with greater retraction authority.
4) As people get more experimental with bed size/ weight and Z height it will needed, but other parts will have to be redesigned as well.
5) David? Since it is Opensource it's constantly developing as long as people are still interested in the project. An updated release would be great though! It is just a lot of work in my experience.


I've been posting a little bit about the progress on building my D-bot on my blog for a school project: https://3dprintcreations.wordpress.com/
I created the frame out of order because I am an idiot that doesn't follow instructions sometimes and still a few parts have not came in from China. A few parts warped heavily or printed badly and I broke two extruders so I was at a stoppage for a week. This was an interesting project because before this, I never used a multimeter, soldering iron, digital calipers and anything electrical so I went against the preface of the guide a bit but I learn fairly quick. Also another mistake was getting eBay motors, I got refurbished stepper motors with 6 wires. I tested one and they work but sounds a bit weird for now.

Comments deleted.

Are you aware that some dickhead from Australia is actually selling printed parts for your design on ebay?
this is just 1 of his listings - eBay item number: 252468041820

Also, it is a service for people who don't have 3D printers. For me, 3 parts printed incorrectly and my 3D printer broke so I considered buying parts. It's not different from what 3Ders does but people should always cite the creator as courtesy and it maybe required for some of the licensing rules I think.

Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 states:

You are free to:
Share — copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format
Adapt — remix, transform, and build upon the material
for any purpose, even commercially.

If you're happy with that.................................................my understanding was commercially but not for profit.
Seriously though you are giving something away for free, and some lowlife who doesn't have the skills or intelligence to create what you have created is benefitting financially from your work.

Same thing here http://ooznest.co.uk/3D-Printer-CNC-Kits-Bundles/D-Bot

This is open source hardware, people are going to try to make money on it. Being open also means people can build it from scratch for cheaper. Thats capitalism I guess

Nov 21, 2016 - Modified Nov 21, 2016

I'm ALMOST finished with my D-Bot. Can someone please tell me which direction the Y axis should move when I hit the y+? Right now it's moving to the back of the printer (away from me). On my old printer (Prussia clone), it moved towards me so that it homed in the front left corner of the bed. On my D-bot, it's homing to the back left point (I am having to use the yMAX end point pins)

It should move back. Home position is back left

Comments deleted.

Great printer - half of the plastic parts are printed in PETg @ 80% infill, most of my mechanical parts have arrived
The print bed you show is different from the BOM - I'm in Canada and have not found a print bed like the one shown
Can you display where you ordered this bed from ?
Looking forward to finishing this project

All the links I used are in the bom

Nov 18, 2016 - Modified Nov 18, 2016

Hey Spauda01,
Great work! I'm making for myself right now and came to issue.
X and Y axis are flipped. How can I unflipped both axis? Something to do with a marlin code? Or just check the wiring and cables?
It is possible to solve this if I switch endstops and settings for homing and max length of axis?

Double check where motor wires connect to the ramps board x and y terminals, pay attention to the colors of the pins on the electrical diagram

So I'm finally at a point where parts actually move on this thing, and I'm doing PID tuning. Got through the Hotend tuning no problem, but when I went to tune the heated bed, I got nothing. I had a spare SSR that I switched out, and now when I plug the printer in, the bed starts heating immediately, and does not stop. I turned the printer off around 80 degrees before it started getting out of hand. No light on the SSR, and PID tuning essentially failed because it was too high of a temp. I double-triple checked all wiring involving the heatbed, and the first time around I verified that it had a normal ambient temp that matched the hotend.

Any thought from anyone?

thats a symptom of relay pins 1 and 2 being reversed

Yep I found a YouTube video that said the same thing. However, after switching them back (which, btw, i only did them wrong, semi-intentionally on the 2nd SSR I tried) I still get no heat or light on the SSR, so I "turned on the bed" in Rep-Host and measured the voltage directly on the PHB pins on the RAMPS and they're putting out nothing, so at this point I highly doubt it's the SSR at all, and am ordering a new RAMPS.

apply 12v to ssr pins 3 and 4 directly (note polarity) from the 12v power supply while you have a multimeter across the hbp pins, you should see the led turn on and voltage apply to the bed

I am building with this printer mainly for speed print . I am planning to use a 32bit 24v capable electronics.
Can someone suggest some good nema motors?

Nov 16, 2016 - Modified Nov 16, 2016

I had printed all the regular parts minus the shims and spacers a while ago in PLA since I had no PETG. I figured, once the D-bot is built and calibrated, I would just print all the parts again but on the D-bot and in PETG since I just received some for the first time. What layer height did everyone use? I didn't think of how much of a pain in the ass trying to fit the bearings in their spots. Also, I don't have room to put a washer in between the two F623ZZ flanged bearings but the bearings still spin well. I can't foresee a problem but would this be an issue or is the washer just mainly serving a purpose so that the bearings aren't loose? Almost all parts came in and the last parts, the actual V-slot extrusions come in Friday so I am excited. One thing I would add to the BOM is a 5Amp fuse. The power switch with fuse didn't come with a fuse. I bought a 10amp fuse and then saw the wiring diagram called for a 5amp fuse but fortunately it was a mega pack of all different amperages.

I'm looking for some input.
Is there anyone using 1/32 stepping? or is there any point in going to 1/32 since with 16 tooth pulleys give 10 micron Resolution at 1/16 step?
trying to figure out what i should do,I do like the sound of 1/32 stepping over 1/16, but I'm concerned with performance issues with 1/32 step with pulleys being 16 tooth.

For anyone that has built one of these to the as-designed print height, how much extra lead screw is protruding upwards when the print bed is all the way up? I ask because I increased the vertical legs of my frame by 120 mm (I'm still in mid-build), and I'm wondering if 500 mm long lead screws will be sufficient, or if I need to get 600 mm screws?

Only about 25mm

If my height is 120mm taller, and my lead screws are only 100mm longer, that leaves me with 5mm stick-thru. Might be a little too close for comfort.

I'll measure it accurately later if I remember, that was just from looking at the pictures. I just remembered my version has slightly higher motors too.

Anyone have any tips on printing the bearing shims and wheel spacers? I figure it is best to print them in mass so that the hotend doesn't melt such a small object but then I get a lot of stringing even though I increased my retraction and lowered temp. If I just print one at a time, it's just a ball of ooze. I was printing shims 10 at a time and a small amount came out fine and the others just needed a ton of cutting and sanding. Not sure if this is supposed to be the process or if people are able to print out small objects just fine.

They should come out fine on a working printer, you can just buy shims here if they wont come out http://openbuildspartstore.com/mini-v-wheel-precision-shim/

Hi. I'm looking to build one of these using parts from my HICTOP printer since I have all the electronics already. It uses a 24V Power supply and doesn't use an actual RAMPs board. It appears to be a custom board combining the Mega and RAMPs (like a RAMBo). Do you think I could upload this firmware and have it work? It is a Mega 2560 chip on board after all.

Hello, I am looking to build 300x300 version running on 24v with an AC bed and have a few questions about how this differs from the original build guide.

  1. Is a 20A PSU sufficient for 24v setup with AC bed? What is the maximum draw for 24v setup?
  2. I have a 15A circuit for the printer to run on, do others have larger or dedicated circuits for the printer? What is the average draw during general use/operation? Seems like a lot of power consumption for something like longer print jobs.
  3. Anyone have a recommended AC 300x300 bed?
  4. In the original build guide, why is the recommended power socket rated at 10A when the PSU is rated up to 30A? What rating power socket is required for 24v setup with silicon bed?

Thanks in advance!

You're confusing power supply input current with output current.

D'oh! Right you are. Strike questions 2 and 4. Reading other comments here, it seems even 10A PSU may be sufficient for 24v operation with an AC bed? Thanks

OK, need some help here. I finished my D-Bot and am re-uploading Marlin.

After I click the check-mark, I get the following:

sketch\temperature.cpp:565:46: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive


What does this mean, do I need to worry about it, and how can I fix it?

What do these mean and how do I fix them?

Are you using the marlin file from the Dbot downloads page

Yes I am.

Nov 7, 2016 - Modified Nov 22, 2016

Have D-Bot up and running. Just have a few things to finalize for appearances. Having issues keeping the MK2a bed at +100° even using a dedicated 400w power supply. I can get it to 110° with a piece of cardboard laid on top during warmup but it drops quickly once the cardboard is removed even while being enclosed fully. Anyway, working on that although 100° may be high enough anyway. The XH-M135 relay does a much better job than the SSR-40DD. I have the power supply turned up to about 13v to give me close to 12v at the bed. I have nothing else running off of this power supply. The clicking doesn't bother me because the printer is setup in an extra bed room. I'll get a write up done once I have the project finished with the trials & tribulations I experienced.

This post is really about my first print attempt. The dimensions are good for both X & Y but the infill has a bad repeating pattern. I have a link to the image.
I killed the print after few layers once it was apparent it was no good.
It's making a basket weave looking infill. I have the infill set to 100% rectilinear. Adhesion to the bed was good and no weird noises from the motors as if something were binding. I do have the Y-belt (Right Front) slightly tighter than the X side to square up the H-bar but it's not over tight and is just slightly tighter than the X-belt. Also, like I mentioned the dimensions are good.

I haven't seen this affect on my Prusa i3, so anyone knows what's the likely cause........
Much appreciation to Spauda for all the work and help as well as the whole community.

UPDATE: It was an under extrusion issue due to needing higher temperature than expected for the E3D v6 extruder. I printed ABS with 230° on my i3 but I need +/- 250° with ABS on this setup. Filament was jamming up extruder very quickly with only 230°.

I'm no expert but I always refer to these guides when my prints dont come out right.


maybe #15 broken infill

What makes the clicking noise? From Amazon reviews, a lot of heating beds have bad reviews in general so possibly that can be an issue with the product itself, idk.
Imgur "C7Vette's images are not publicly available."

OK, got actual link to image finally, sorry again


The clicking is from the relay (XH-M135)
Hear you on the heat bed. Gonna have look into that further to see if I need a change.

This link should work, sorry. Haven't used Imgur before.

I read something about increasing the actual extruder size to possibly up to 0.45. I'm gonna try increasing it a little bit at the time.


Nov 7, 2016 - Modified Nov 7, 2016

I'm struggling to find a supplier of V-Slot in Australia. Is V-Slot interchangeable with T-Slot for this printer?

No, it is only designed for Vslot

Nov 6, 2016 - Modified Nov 6, 2016

First set of parts ordered for mine. I will create a page later with my adventure. I have ZERO knowledge in 3D Printing, but am a programmer and bot builder, so this is going to be a good challenge. Have a friend in another state starting to print my initial parts. Wish me luck!

I've checked out all other 3D-Printers on this site and various Kits and already made units. I figured this one would be more future proof and a larger initial build area. Plus, looking at Youtube Videos of this and various others that have built it, I can't go wrong.

Plus there's a Fry's right down the road for a lot of the wiring, steppers, Arduino's etc.

Has anyone put TMC2100 drivers in to silence the stepper motors? Also, how do I need? 1 per axis and 1 for the extuder so total 4?

Nov 6, 2016 - Modified Nov 6, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to silq707

I tried them, i have a couple demo videos on my youtube channel. You don't really need them on z since it moves so infrequently, you could put on on the extruder but the real noise sources are the x and y motors so you might try two

Was originally looking to go 300x300mm but thinking 254x254mm might be more manageable. Has anyone done a 254mm build surface and if so, did you follow the 300mmx300mm cut list or stick with the original?

Nov 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 4, 2016

First of all thanks to Spauda01 for the awesome work.
I'm setting up my newly build D-Bot, but I just can't get extrusion right with my Smoothieboard. Does this picture suggest to anyone where the problem is? Extruder's steps/mm are perfectly tuned.

Also I can't get the Z carriage wheels to tighten against the vertical extrusions, there seems to be a little bump on each inner half of the Z Wheel Guides that prevents them to fully make contact on each other. Any tips? My bed wobbles noticeably...

Try the Cbot forum, several people there used smoothieboards

Thanks for the heads up. Anything on this nudge?

That lip should be on the end of the rail, not the side unless the cuts are crooked

Like this? Or am I missing the point? Thanks for being super-helpful :)

I think I see what you are getting at, I don't think the two plastic pieces are supposed to touch at that lip, I'll need to look at my setup tonight

I guess having used T-Nuts leftovers from another build instead of plain square nuts may have affected those pieces' geometry.

Awesome! Thanks.

Ok, so after a week of troubleshooting I'm coming up short.... My D-Bot is having Issues jogging the X axis.... After I flashed the Marlin Firmware in the Download included, the following has happened.

1.) The original flash of the firmware directly from the download worked, but when I tried to auto home in the full graphic controller, the printer would home in the completely wrong direction.
2.) I re-flashed with inverted X and Y axis.... fixed the homing issue.
3.) Went on to start messing with the printer in Repetier, Auto home doesn't work, X-axis will not move manually at all. Y axis buzzes instead of moves. Z is fine.
4.)Tried swapping XY motors on Ramps headers, Issue does not leave X axis.
5.)haven't swapped endstops due to the spliced wiring configuration of Y and Z endstops.
6.)tried swapping a4988 drivers... no change.
7.)Also, I noticed when I flash the original Marlin, The LCD screen says "D-Bot CoreXY ready" like it should, but when I flash the same config with inverted X Y directions, it says "SD removed" when I haven't modified any settings in regards to the SD card.
8.)I has gotten to the point where X travel makes the X motor skip so bad that the X belt is continually pulling slack into itself, When I tighten up the X axis belt, the skipping gets less dramatic, but no matter the tension of X, Y travel is smooth.

Any help is appreciated, my head hurts at this point.

Solution found. Nuts on the inside of the printer carriage were not flush, and when I tightened the belt clamps it was acting like a clamp on the gantry arm.

Now, however, ive got some sort of issue with printing from Usb.... i get a communication error mid print and the printer stays idle waiting for command... gonna try printing from SD because I haven't found much documentation on the issue.

What brand of arduino board do you have?

Currently using an osyoo 2560 off amazon...... I've also got another Inland branded board laying around

Would you happen to know what kind of serial chip it uses? I originally had a knockoff Arduino with a serial chip that liked to randomly drop out

Good Idea, I swapped it with the Inland Branded board, It still dropped once, but I got off two successful prints so far. Not sure if that is the exact issue, Haven't tried prints longer than an hour.... if it happens again, I'm going to try a different version of Repetier host and see if that helps, I'd rather not bump up to RC7 Marlin until it becomes a stable build.

Also probably going to implement auto bed leveling.

Thanks again for the great build Spauda! Ill upload my make shortly!

WHat operating system do you have?

When the issue first popped up i was on windows 7 pro x64, then in an attempt to fix any usb errors, I upgraded to windows 10 x64

The original version of marlin you downloaded had a parameter set which defines core XY movement. Are you sure that this has been defined in the new version of the firmware? It is critical that this is defined or it will not work correctly.

When I first made mine I found that there was also a bug in earlier versions of Marlin that would not allow the Y axis stop to work correctly as a max stop rather than a min stop.

This has been fixed in the newest release candidate of Marlin, would suggest you download that but then copy all the parameters from the version included with the thing files.


I will probably do this, Do you think i run any risk installing u8glib and the full graphic smart controller for the printer? or just run blind without an LCD?

Nov 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 4, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to DSchmidt54

Your best option is to hook everything up the same as the build guide/diagrams with the Dbot marlin firmware. Once you confirm all of that hardware is good, then you can start adding extras

Found the issue, posted above, thanks for your help spauda!

The available download of Marlin does not have any setup for lcd screens

My apologies, I also installed U8glib and enabled Full graphic LCD support.

Nov 3, 2016 - Modified Nov 3, 2016

To Spauda01: there is a conflict in the documentation over the correct type of SSR to use.

  • The D-Bot Build Guide pdf says on page 75: "Use an AC SSR, not a DC SSR, they look very similar."
  • The D-Bot Bill of Materials pdf says "SSR DC DC Relay | Solid State AC relay will not work with a DC load | Don't confuse with the SS AC relay, they look similar, read the label"

Looking at the D-Bot electrical diagram (which does not specify either way), the circuit appears to be all DC apart from the AC mains input. So it's the Build Guide that needs correction. The Build Guide link to Amazon is for a 40A DC/DC SSR, which seems ok.

It may be worthwhile amending the Build Guide sometime.

P.S. In the SketchUp model, the SSR is a block named SSR-25-DA, which again is misleading. Should be renamed SSR-25DD.

That's in the appendix, for an alternate setup. It says "Electrical diagram for an AC voltage heated bed is shown below"

Nov 3, 2016 - Modified Nov 3, 2016
brucesdad13 - in reply to Ian_3234

I suppose it depends on which heater you are running. I have heard of people using heat tape and so forth that might be AC powered. The heatbeds I have seen are all DC. Edit: and I think you're right about the documentation error

Comments deleted.

its in the bill of materials

Yea I tried to delete that comment as I noticed it was in the BOM about 7 seconds after hitting post but I guess you're just that quick lol

Can i use t-slot instead v-slot to build this? Cannot found any vslot seller here. Please advice

At least 5 of the rails need to be V-Slot as the build has wheels that track along the V-Slot in those places (2 vertical poles at the back, the left and right top bars, and the print carriage rail. The rest can theoretically be T-slot without issue.

Comments deleted.

I'm in the movement & homing stage of the project. All 3 axis movements are correct directionally. The X & Z axis homes correctly. Not so great with the Y axis. The movement direction is correct going to the Y-Max of 200 to the back of the bed.The problem is when it contacts the Y-Endstop it seems to want to keep going. It's trying to continue moving to the back even through it's at the end which appears to cause the X to move due to belt tension from the Y (Right) stepper motor.
I notice another post with similar issues but didn't seem to be the exact same situation.
I saw mentioned that he switched a wire. Would this probably be the pin alignment of the endstop plug at the Ramps?
I did not combine the Z & Y endstop wiring as in the electrical diagram but rather just ran them separately. I have all 3 endstop connections with the red wire towards the middle of the ramps board.

Double check your wiring compared to the wiring diagram. If it still doesnt work swap the x and y endstops and see if the problem moves

Oct 29, 2016 - Modified Oct 30, 2016
C7_Vette - in reply to spauda01

Double checked the wiring and swapped endstops but the Y axis still not wanting to stop when it activates the Y endstop. I have the bed size correct as well as the Min/Max values. Seems weird that the endstop is not stopping the travel regardless even if Min/Max values would have been wrong. Checked firmware but can't see anything wrong there. All extensions for the wires are soldered solidly and the light does come on when the endstop is activated. Also, after swapping the X & Y endstops the X still did home correctly.

Tried the M119 command and it showed all endstops open when not activated and shows activated when I press the endstop switch by hand and resend M119. Looks fine there as far as I can tell.

Edit: Just noticed that on the wiring diagram from the build guide that the shared wiring of the Z & Y endstops have the Y using the pin of the Y-Max directly adjacent to the Z-Min pins.Currently with my individual endstop wiring I'm using all Min pin sets. I'll move the Y endstop to the max pins and try it. I'll post back with results.

Results: WOW, that was it. If I would have used the shared wiring for Z & Y as in the guide I would not have had the issue to start with. Live and Learn.
Thanks for the assistance.

Sharing the +5v wiring to the Y and Z endstops makes no functional difference, it just saves some wire, but yes you need to make sure that your pin connections at the ramps board match the diagram since Y homes to max not min

Oct 29, 2016 - Modified Oct 29, 2016
TheLost - in reply to C7_Vette

The endstop pins on the RAMPS board should not be switched around! The order of the pins (closest to the edge of the board) is signal, ground, power (Power is closest to the temperature pins).

You can test the status of the end-stops by sending a M119 command. Using it (M119) should help you figure out whats wrong (firmware, bad endstop, bad wire... etc) without having to move the motors/carriage around.

Good morning everyone! Spauda1, thank you for this write up; super helpful. I have a few questions that I need help with.

  1. I plan on using a mains powered bed. 300x300mm 110v 720w. With that said, I will not be pulling any current from the power supply to power the heat bed. Does the power supply still need to be 30amp? Or, can I get away with say a 12v 6amp? I'm just looking for sizing and cleanliness. What would the minimum 12v PSU be?

  2. For the extruder, is there any reason that I couldn't use a pancake stepper? Again, to slimline the build.


I'd go with 12v 10a, always good to have margin on power consumption ratings


Hi all, I have a Solidoodle 2 that I'm ready to throw out the window. It's a really frustrating printer. I'm hoping to get the calibration down enough to print the parts for the D-Bot. What's your experience been like using the D-Bot printer? Can you print technical parts that fit together nicely?

I think it works pretty well but I'm biased. If you have a complex test piece or calibration part in mind I might be able to give it a try

Hah! I hear ya. I don't think it's any more complex than the Eiffel tower you have in the main photo. I am mainly interested in printing parts that fit together consistently. I imagine much of that has to do with the filament and consistent temperature settings but the mechanical aspects as well. Does it do circles and squares well? My Solidoodle 2 seems hopelessly unable to print a decent circle or square. I get ovals and rectangles.

Yes circles come out round and squares are squarey. What kind of parts do you need to print?

Mirror cells, focusers, etc... check out Chriske's "Printsonian" Thingy

How'd you guys get the bed wires to stick to the bottom of the bed cork insulation for wire management?

Seconded JB Weld- essentially I got the cables from both the thermistor and the heated bed and ran them on the outside of the cork, all ran into one piece of shrink tubing which I JB Welded to the cork as well.

jb weld epoxy

Has anyone tried puttng a direct drive extruder on this?


My ongoing build has one as well.

E3D Titan carriage for D-Bot
Oct 23, 2016 - Modified Oct 23, 2016

Is it a good option to use this board for D-Bot?
If so, which drivers and motors are better for this setup?
(300x300mm bed version)

3DBUG - This is the board that I'm going to use once I get everything together. As others mentioned, it doesn't use the Marlin firmware. With that said, there is a fair amount of information on the board and the Smoothie firmware. I believe the drivers come on the board already. You can use the same motors that are linked in the BOM.

It doesn't seems it will support marlin firmware

Can someone explain me pro and cons of J-bot and H-bot z setup?


Great work ! I wanted to know what is the piece? http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/30/00/ed/ab/0d/41dfc062fd44138c104ed6a74b1bd606_preview_featured.JPG

The black one? Whare can i buy one?
Thx for your help


The Bowden tube connector comes with the E3D v6 Bowden kit

OH OK ! Stupid question so ;) Thx !

Great build, and looking forward to doing this myself. One problem...

Im in need of a print area of at least 18" x 18"... Any suggestions for a headed bed of THAT dimension?

Google silicon heatbeds, they can be made in any size.

Everything is finally wired up and working, except I'm having trouble heating the bed.

I tested the SSR without the bed, and it will turn on fine (the red light goes on), but when I have the bed wired, the whole printer shuts down, and at first I thought I blew my PSU (I'm using a 550W computer PSU), but after unplugging and waiting a bit it came back alive.

I have a 12x12 bed, and measured the resistance at 0.7 ohm, which seems a bit low. Is there anything else I could check? Thanks :-)

Can you link to the bed you have

I prefer the solid state relays, they work well when done right. Your bed will draw ~17A max which is pretty high for a 12x12 bed but an SSR-40 should work, double check your wiring before trying again

I managed to figure out the wiring, but I definitely got a fake one. I'm measuring almost 2V of V drop, and with 20amps load, that's almost 40W I'm losing on the SSR, so it gets super hot within a minute... Can you measure the voltage drop on yours?

I have this one:


For reference, I contacted the manufacturer, and he suggested plugging in the bed directly on the PSU for troubleshooting. I did that, and the bed heats up fine! goes to 80C in less than 2 minutes!

Next, I went ahead and measured the resistance on the SSR relay:

  • Closed: Infinite
  • Open: 230K ohms

At this point I think it's the crappy fotek relay, so I will prob need to buy from a more reputable seller. If any other ideas, let me know! :-)

When you are talking 12 V that would be about 205W, correct me if I am wrong. So for a 300x300mm bed that would be at the low end, i.e. not to low a resistance.
Did you check, for instance, http://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_a_Power_Supply_for_your_RepRap ?

sanding the nuts is a huge pain, plus square nuts can be slid in after the build for additional parts.

The T-nuts (last link) don't work.
I bought them and they grab the plastic before they grab the rails, so I had to put small pieces of cardboard on every single one to make them "taller" :)

Thank you for your feedback , would be an option sand it?

Hi all,
I will definitely get into the production of this printer, but just before I wanted a rather general feedback from those who have made it, I have used a "Prusa i3" and "Ultimaker 2 "... is this printer is at least as good as the Ultimaker ???
Thank you for your answers.

Depends on how well you build it.

I've had little experience with an Ultimaker, but my prints look much better than the prints I got off from an Ultimaker 2.

Hi all ,
I am really in trouble finding the best way to realize the bed.
I saw many of you simply use an heated bed screwed to the the printer and a a glass fixed to the bed whit clamps.
My question.
1) isn't the heated to prone to curve during the heating process?
2) Does the glass need to be borosilicate for sustain temperature near 100-110 c°
3) would be an aluminum bed with a silicone heater underneath a better option?

Thank you

1.) Yes, which is why glass is used typically.
2.) No, just make sure not to heat it up or cool it down rapidly. If you allow it to heat from naturally (don't shoot it with a heat gun) and don't put it under cold water right after printing, it won't be an issue. I'd recommend using slightly thicker glass though, about 6mm or larger.
3.) Could work, I personally prefer glass and use it on all of my printers. It's great because the prints self release once they cool off, it gives a perfectly flat print surface, and gives a great surface finish.

Thank you for your replay , but can I ask you how you fix the glass to the printer?
I would like to use a silicon heater for better performance and I don't know how to fix all this stuff to the printer.
I am thinking to use aluminum bed with 4 holes for fix it then . silicone heater and then glass, is it sound plausible?

Yeah, that would work.

So from bottom to top, silicone heater, aluminum plate, glass.

Use binder clips to clamp the glass to the aluminum.

I'll go for it , I'll try a chep chinese aluminium bed first , maybe I will not need a perfect flat one using a glass over it.
Thank you

Oct 13, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016

is this motor suitable for this printer ? It seems very strong.

Also can someone suggest me a good extruder? Bowden or direct?

6.5Kg.cm looks good so far but watch out the shipping! it makes twice the price.

I am thinking about using this motors only for x and Y , I have to find a cheaper shipping option :-)

Oct 13, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016
1sPiRe - in reply to claustro

personnaly i ordered those ones:

I receive them today so i can't tell you if they do the 100% job, but they should. Shipping was free, fast, and really well packaged. They have 1m cable w/ dupont jumper (and looks bloody great all black).

I bookmarked those motors also , but am I quite frighten about the amperage , 2A seems a lot for the driver DRV8825 dont'you?

I don't think so, I never tried any coreXY neither V-slot system so far, so I don't know how much torque it needs...I'm going to try w/ A4988 drivers that i already have, and if i'm losing some steps i'll go for DRV8825.

I just see that vicious is using the same motors for his mpcnc w/ DRV8825. So if it works for a CNC it should works for a 3Dprinter without any issues.

Comments deleted.

I'm just checking while the last parts are printing here- I know the BOM talks about square nuts because they are cheaper, but I actually have a large number of OpenBuilds T-Nuts already, the M5 style that fit the V-Slots. It's still possible to build this using those, right?

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for either an aluminum piece or some decently thick Borosilicate glass at 8x12? The glass I got from the only supplier I've found was pretty easy to bend/warp and i'd like something more rigid.

Yes, but I had a little bit of trouble getting some of those nuts to work with 10mm screw length and had to use 12mm screw in a few places or skip washers. I also bought some of the hammer chinese nuts. They are nice because they can be added after assembly because they fit in between the rails without disassembling things.

Can you please tell me how much plastic do you use for the functional parts? That is minus electronic covers.
This is important if we have to order the parts over at 3dhubs, so we can get an idea how much would the printing service cost.


I used a bit more than 1 KG PETG, but I had some failed prints aswell.

I personally used about 1.5 kg, but it also depends on the type of plastic and the settings

Oct 12, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016

Do you need to be using fiberglass insulation sleeving for the heated beds thermistor legs? or will heat shrink work considering there is a cork board in the way?

Hi all I am really can't decide which stepper motor to but , tooooo many models.
I am planning to make a 300x300 version, can someone suggest me some a good nema 17 for this setup

Doesn't really matter that much. Most any steppers you get will work. I'd suggest getting some NEMA 17s with a high holding torque because they don't cost much more than the "regular" ones.

They'll be a bit heavier, but that doesn't matter as they're all stationary. The ones I'm using have a holding torque of 88oz.in and they have no issues at all.

I already have 17HS4401S nema steppers. They will be strongh enought ?
Or do you think that i should buy new ones ?
Thx !! :)

52 oz will be ok, but recommend the 70 oz models as listed in the assembly sheet. Depends how much you want to push the speeds, and if you are staying boden or going direct extruder or even dual extruder. Adding more mass to the center X beam carriage, will require additional torque to handle the speeds.

Ok ! Mine are 65oz, it should be ok so ':) here is the link

Thx for your help. Now i need a mit saw :p

Comments deleted.
Oct 11, 2016 - Modified Oct 11, 2016
claustro - in reply to Buket0chicken

thank you very much for your replay, I friend of mine suggested this one , but it seems to me too high rated at 2,1 ampere for phase with a DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver even with hot sink.
Can you link me the one you are using?

I would like to increase a little the printable area but I can't understand exactly what to put in the calculator for a obtaining determinate printing area
If I want a 350 x 300 x 300 effective printing area what I have to write?

Heated Bed Width (hole to hole) 350
Heated Bed Length (hole to hole) 300
Lead Screw Length 300
Is this correct ?



I'm not quite sure what calculator you're talking about. Towards the end of the build guide are the sizes of the rails needed for a 300x300 bed. Just increase the left-to-right horizontal rails by 50mm from those dimensions. It looks like you meant to include a link or two, but nothing shows up.

These are the steppers I used https://amzn.com/B00QEYADRQ

You stepper drivers should be fine. Assuming you're using a RAMPs board, you'll need constant cooling on the board anyways.

My printer is modified from the original, but all of the components needed for the standard build are listed in the BOM. Not sure what size lead screws are used there - probably 400mm.

thank you very much for your help !

Comments deleted.

The link for the "2.54mm Connector kit" listed in the BOM is no longer working and I'm not sure what parts were included in that kit. Can someone please assist me in finding an alternate part to order?

The "2.54mm Connector Kit" is for the female header pins that plug into the Ramps 1.4 board. You'll need them for things like the heat bed and extruder thermistor connections.

The BOM links to something like this:

BUT... any standard 'Dupont' style (2.54mm / 0.1inch) connectors will work... Servo Connectors, breadboard jumper cables... etc.

Perfect! I found that exact same kit last night and added it to my cart just didn't order it yet. Nice to get confirmation that is what I need.

i upgraded the Stepper Sticks to the DRV8825. Prints are half size to scale. Do I need to get into the Config-H and change the stepper settings?

Oct 9, 2016 - Modified Oct 9, 2016
gogomaker - in reply to fpinczuk

yea if you didn't change the jumpers, the new drivers will be using 1/32 microsteps vs 1/16 with the other one. You'll need to double the steps/unit in the firmware.....this is in there under "DEFAUL_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT"

Thank you,

Did that and it worked for most of the steppers. Need to come up with the math on the the E0 stepper, simply because I added a Titan Geared Drive assembly. E3D website claims a 3:1 reduction, so I am assuming if I take the E0 value and X2 (from 1/16 to 1/31) then X3 for the drive reduction. That should get me close to the actual stepper value to use in Marlin. Tks

Oct 10, 2016 - Modified Oct 10, 2016
TheLost - in reply to fpinczuk

From the E3D Titan Wiki..

Steps per Unit (Extruder) = Motor Steps Micro-stepping Gear Ratio / (Hobb Diameter * Pi)
200 x 32 x 3 / (7.3 x 3.142) = 837

So.. 837 is what you need in your config.

Just a FYI... I am loving the Titan on my D-Bot!

thank you, what kind of part cooling fan solution did you go with? I am looking to build a second titan head and install it on the opposite side of the beam. Making a dual extruder setup.

I just use the stock '1-Part_Cooling_Fan_Duct'.. however i bumped up my cooling fan to a 40mm x 20mm (vs. the suggested 40x10mm fan)

Thank you for this wonderful design. I will make a remix 40 x 40 x 40. I would like to ask you if it possible for a dual extruder with single hot end, like the new Prusa multiplex?


3Dator Y-piece for dual extrusion with one nozzle
by 3Dator

Hi there!

Is there a group about the D-bot? If yes i can't find it. If no, then it would be a usefull way to centralize and to compartment infos, things, links and advices.
To be honest I planned to build one and have some questions that should have been asked dozens of times and it's a long job to find answers through 1600+ comments...

Amazing impressive work (from you and cfeniak ofc) and documentations! I'm realy excited to start the build. Thank you for sharing such thing!

I also need to know how many cable chain links to print. Where can I get the files for the split loom cable clips?

24 links + 2 ends for the cable chain.

The loom clips are listed under the optional components list along with the cable chain.

Has anybody tried down-sizing? I doubt it's really worth it cost-wise, since the extrusion isnt even close to the most expensive part of the build, but has anyone tried it? Would it work to have something like a 100 x 200 bed instead of 200 x 300?

Oct 6, 2016 - Modified Oct 6, 2016

FYI for everyone: I ordered some of my hardware from Mr. Metric and some from Nutty to save money. I think for all of the bolts and most nuts there is no effective difference but there are two things to note: All the 10mm M5 bolts from Nutty are soaked in machine oil so I have to towel down each one prior to using it. Second and most importantly: Nutty's M5 square nuts do not fit in the V-slot slots. Not by force and not at all. So I've now put in a new order for square nuts from Mr. Metric and hopefully they will work fine. This was an unpleasant surprise. So take home message: don't order from Nutty. Their packaging was also awful compared to Mr. Metric. Meh.

I ordered most of the metric hardware from Mr Metric for my first build, but have found that Bolt Depot is typically less expensive and has better packaging. No oil soaked screws in a bag. Usually they are in a small box. I'm using Bolt Depot almost exclusively for my subsequent builds.
I also abandoned the square nuts and went with twist lock hammer nuts. The got tired of the square nuts jamming and damaging the extrusions. I found a very good price on M5 twist lock hammerhead t-nuts on AliExpress and I've ordered enough for several more builds.
All of my parts were redesigned to allow clearance for the hammer t-nuts without bottoming. Assembly is much easier with the twist lock t-nuts.

Oct 23, 2016 - Modified Oct 24, 2016
printingSome - in reply to KDan

Thanks a lot for the tip! I also got very frustrated with the DIN562 square nuts, same thing, ordered those hammerheads and I am now replacing all the square ones I already had mounted.

When I see the problems also others have with the square ones: is there perhaps a bit more deviation in those things than expected for use in these profiles?
Measuring a couple: 7.92mm square with a thickness of about 2.50mm + 0.08mm, rvs. Officially: 8.0mm - 2.7mm.
Until now I haven't seen any bottoming problems.
Just enjoying to be able to slip the premounted nuts in or let the bolt seek the nut without having to lift the nut in all sorts of devious ways. ;-)
Edit: I see that the hammerhead-advice was given earlier. Well, thanks to everyone!

Oct 24, 2016 - Modified Oct 24, 2016
KDan - in reply to printingSome

Just keep a close eye on them when tightening. Those T-nuts definitely have some variance and it's not always easy to tell if they have bottomed out when they are in a place where you can't seem them.
Another problem is that you can't always tell if they engaged. I solved that problem by putting a little dab of
https://www.vibra-tite.com/products/threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate on each screw and letting it cure before screwing them into the T-nuts. It's also great to keep screws from loosening over hundreds of hours of printing (they will).

I really need to post those modified parts for people who might want to use T-nuts. I'll try to get to that this week.

I was so lucky to misunderstand the "bottoming out", thought it was about the bolts, so I started measuring how much thread I had left, minus the thickness of the material, whilst replacing the square nuts after my last reply and indeed found that in some places the bolts had bottomed out, especially with countersunk mounting locations.
I found some spring washers for M5 with an outer dia of 8mm, so that took care of that. ;-)

Now I know better I'll have to have a serious look at the hammerheads themselves too. Removing a bit of material around the holes in the raised channels should do the trick, if I understand the problem now correctly. A bit late, but never too late, I console myself. ;-)
Thanks for the vc-3 tip, you sure are right about that loosening effect of all that vibrating.

Yes, it's not about the bolts or their length, but adding washers won't help.
The problem is that the base of the Hammer T-nuts protrudes enough to cause them to bottom out on the raised channel that is designed into many of the printed parts. This can prevent them from being tightened far enough to actually clamp onto the extrusion. They will "feel" tight, but they actually may not be. This is why all of the parts with the raised channels that fit into the V-slot need to be modified.

Take a look at my Raspberry Pi case that I use on my printer. Notice the bottom of the mounting brackets at the point where they attach to the extrusion. This is what I had to do to all of the parts to ensure that Hammer T-nuts would work reliably.

Raspberry Pi 7" touchscreen case and mounting
by KDan

Understood, thanks!
Still, the washers-thing was about the bolts, for instance with the countersunk locations on the motormounts the bolts ended up against the bottom of the profile, so there it is also better to fill some room under the head.

Hi Kdan, is inopportune ask you if are willing to share your modded parts?

I intend to do that when I get a chance to organize everything. Right now I'm tied up working on the Raspberry Pi 3/ Repetier Server front-end.

I am just starting to print the parts on my Prusa I3. I have a couple of questions. I am building 2 of these. One 200x300 for a co-worker and a 300x300 for myself. Are all of the dimensions in the build guide usable on the 300x300? If not does anyone have the different dimensions? Specifically the placement of the zmotors and the bed attachments. Thanks for the great printer spauda01. I am looking forward to this project

you have to extend the frame. Cutting advice for 300x300 is on the end of the assembly PDF

Thanks for the reply themaxx2k. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I am aware of the cutting advice in the appendix. I am actually looking for the dimensions used to position the z motors and the other dimensions that are in the guide for building the 200x300 size. Specifically pages 21 and 24 of the build guide. I know that the appendix says to move the z axis towards the center of gravity of bed. Would like to know if there are more specific spacing that I can actually measure out during assembly

Comments deleted.
Oct 1, 2016 - Modified Oct 1, 2016

I'm printing parts now, I'd like to build a 300x300 but finding a bed that large seems to require a custom metal piece. How ward would it be to build with 300x200, get a feel for the machine and then upgrade later? I've found 12x12x.25 6061Al online, is that too heavy gauge?

If you build your frame originally to fit the larger build plate, it would only be a matter of swapping bed, and changing a few setting in your firmware. Solid 300x300 bed here: http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/heat-beds/12-x-12-heat-bed.html

Did you need a separate power supply for this or will just one work? What is your max bed temp that can be reached? Thanks.

Sep 30, 2016 - Modified Oct 5, 2016

Hi people.

Has anyone using the BLTouch on this printer?
I've tried for days to get it to work, with no luck in Marlin that's posted here by Dave.
I have tried WinMerge but no luck there as well. I really need to get the BLTouch working.


edit=I got it working :)

Please share what you did to get it to work. Thanks.

I've got the G28 working great. But when I do a G29 it doesn't do what I need it to do.
It's most likely a setting. Maybe we could help each other?

Here is my Config.h file https://www.dropbox.com/s/rc5kneonmoxogzq/Configuration.h?dl=0

Please lets me know how you get on :)

Hello, I want to install a rail kit on this printer, what the length I need?
2x300mm and 3x400?

I'm the the final stages of building my printer. However, I'm experiencing an ugly noise that comes from the z-axis motors when trying to home any axis from pronterface. The z-axis motors also spin a step or 2 when emitting the noise. The motors act as if the jumpers under the drivers are not installed although they are. I don't see how homing the x-axis could prompt Marlin to move the z-axis when manual control of axes works correctly. I'm running Marlin 1.6.9 on the ramps 1.4.

Any help is much appreciated.

Where can I find the dimensions for the from carriage hole pattern? I'm looking to build a custom front carriage, but I need to know how far apart the holes for the mini v wheels are.

Oct 1, 2016 - Modified Oct 26, 2016
KDan - in reply to Noah410

If you can open STEP or SLDPRT files, you can go back to the C-Bot files on Openbuilds and work from them. Go to
and click on Files and Drawings. There are some 123 Design files in there too.

I've remodeled and redesigned many of the parts in DesignSpark Mechanical and SpaceClaim, but haven't published anything because I really need to cleanup and document my revision tree. Plus, I'm still modifying and tweaking things and have other major changes in the works.

The x-axis carriage is one of the things I redesigned on my machine also. Mine was designed around a single 2020 extrusion to reduce moving mass. You can see a few videos here...
and here..

Is there a particular reason for the heated bed relay? I purchased this one for my build and it seems like it should be fine running directly from ramps right? Please and thanks for the help.


it draws about 9.3A, so it would be fine for RAMPS, however, the quality of the MOSFET on chinese RAMPS is poor, so imho you should use a DC DC SSR (25A rated).

If you don't know enough to determine if a component is necessary or not then I recommend not skipping any parts.

I was simply inquiring into whether or not it would be necessary for the bed I purchased. The bed listed in your build parts list is a dual power heatbed, therefore I was wondering if that was why you felt the need to utilize the relay. Also, at two different points in your instruction manual you talk about two different relays, in the list you link to the uxcell ssr-40dd and state "Don't confuse with the SS AC relay, they look similar, read the label" but then in the build guide you state - Use an AC SSR, not a DC SSR, they look very similar." hence my confusion. Is the relay there to provide protection to the ramps board ?

You are using a 200x300 12v heatbed just like me, im not using dual power. The build guide appendix is a separate section which states that it is for an AC heat bed

Is anyone else having problems with pg 25 figure 22 of the build guide? My M5 bolts don't fit through the 3D printed parts in this section!

It can be tight depending on your printer tolerance, they basically thread into hte plastic which gives it a good hold anyway

Everytime I try and thread them through the printed parts they crack and break. Could M4 bolts be used instead of M5?

I would recommend drilling out holes that are too small. Those axles probably need to be m5 to work properly

Sep 25, 2016 - Modified Sep 25, 2016

For those that are not as good as Spauda in hiding their cables and having their build look like an absolute diy job - there is always the option of making side panels out of perspex :-)

Step 1, build this amazing D-Bot.
Step 2, order parts from vicious for the MPCNC machine
Step 3, print parts for the MPCNC on your D-Bot and build the MPCNC.
Step 4, design panels for your D-Bot.
Step 5, cut your custom designed panels on the MPCNC
Step 6, mount panels and gone are those cables :-)


D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

MPCNC rocks. Was my last project. 85% completed. Already milling. Btw how to hide my cables on mpcnc? Anything to print on my upcoming D-Bot? Lol

The MPCNC does ROCK ! :-)
This was the only thing I designed for helping a bit on the MPCNC for the cables :-) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1295687

International 25mm End Cap

Is it possible to build this using 8020 instead of v-slots?

If this is something you really want to do, PM me. I have done some work toward this goal.

No, not as designed. The whole printer is based on Vslot rails and Vslot wheels

Looking for a source of a 300 x 300 mm build plate (12 x 12 inches). I've found plenty of heater solutions. Just need the build plate. Thanks

MidWest Steel and Aluminum..

Cast Aluminum Tool & Jig Plate (ATP5).

Cover it with PEI and you'll have an amazing build plate..

I had a pretty bad experience with MidWest.. Paid more for shipping than I paid for the plate. After 2 weeks I had to call them and they said they hadn't gotten around to the order yet, and took 2 more calls and another week to get them to ship it. The price is right, but the service is downright horrible.

MIC-6 aluminum + PrintBite is the best build plate setup I know of. Perfectly flat, sticks like crazy when heated, then just slides off when it cools down.


I might have to look into that. I'm currently using 7/32" float glass. I need something stiff (which is why I went with the heavier glass. 1/8" glass didn't have the needed stiffness. When I clamped it to my Mk2a PCB 300mm x 300mm heatbed (which are all somewhat buckled), it was pulling the 1/8" glass out of shape. The 7/32" plate is hardly affected.
I really like printing on glass myself, but the large 7/32" glass plate is heavy and the heat transfer is not good. The area where the layer cooling fan blows is significantly cooled because of this. I can see the effect very clearly with my thermal camera.

Thanks, KDan. This comment of you on that glass problem convinced me to try and go for the printbite-on-a-really-flat-alu-plate, expensive as this combination may be.

Thank you, great find.

100% correct, works like a charm.

Has anyone remixed this for direct extrusion? I would like to salvage as much as possible from my old printer, which sucks due to rigidity.

Sep 22, 2016 - Modified Sep 22, 2016
spiffcow - in reply to zggtf211

Just use the C-Bot direct drive carriage.. That's your easiest option.

I am building that exact setup. Design is solid so far, and fits like a glove. Looking to mirror the mount on the back plate and have dual extruder.

Sep 21, 2016 - Modified Sep 21, 2016

Can anyone tell me what version of Marlin the D-Bot is using?
The one in the zip file that is?

Just a theoretical question: Is there a reason to not put the extruder ontop the hotend (its called direct drive, isnt it)? Would it be to heavy for quick/precice movements or is it just Personal flavour?

Sep 20, 2016 - Modified Sep 20, 2016
ThePhilStrongProject - in reply to bhorn

Mostly personal flavour - I've been running a bowden setup (extruder mounted remotely) since I build mine, but I'm currently printing the bits to mount an E3D Titan on there to improve my retraction ability (and print reliability - but this is an issue with my hot end, not bowden in particular).

As a rule of thumb, bowden is lighter and faster, direct feed generally allows for better quality. Direct also allows you to print flexible filaments.

It probably just a rookie question but I have to ask. So there is no problem if bed is supported on just one side? Because the Z axis threaded rods are in the middle?

There are 2 z-axis steppers and threaded rods. They are positioned at the center of gravity on the cantilevered bed. However, some of us are building the J-bot derivative that supports the gantry on both ends. There are pros and cons to both setups.

What is the downside if the bed is supported on both sides? Can you elaborate a bit more on pros and cons of both setups please.

You get front/rear wobble if they're on the sides, and left/right wobble if you use the front/back scheme. Best choice is to use 3 leadscrew option.

Anybody have success printing sainsmart flexible filament or other types of flexible filament? Wondering if settings can be shared.

I spent a few days trying to [rint PERG and that took forever. I had to add a tiny bit of extra tubing right after the extruder or else it would buckle and had to slow everything down a ton, especially solid infill speed.

Your best bet for any flexible filament is a direct drive extruder... Bowden setups and soft/flexible filaments don't mix.

I just thought i could share some of my options regarding this amazing build Spauda01 provided us. Here are the changes i made on some of the stuff i bought.

Wantai 0.9" high torque Nema17 motors
E3D VariPower Heated bed
E3D Volcano
Duet Wifi
P100 Thermistor board
Ir probe
Panel Due with a 7" touch screen
RatRig V-slot black anodized extrusions
Assembled ABS Mini V-wheels (might change to heavy duty delrin/PC later)
all running on a 24V 600W psu

Most of the components can be sourced from Bangood for an amazing price. the shipping from them is rather fast and at least for europe, they manage to avoid customs, which saves you ALOT of money.

Just waiting now for everything to arrive, while i print the rest of the parts :)

Cheers and thanks for everything!

Any guides on getting the touch screen working with marlin and RAMPs?


Scroll down to the end where David talks about connecting the panelDue to other 3d electronics :)
The requirements are not that demanding imho !

I love it! Very clean design. What adhesive did you use to glue the cork underneath the heat bed?

jb weld epoxy

Thank you for the info. I checked It can withstand temperatures up to 550ºF ~ 288°C when fully cured so no problem there.

I'm on my phone and the comments take too long to load to search if this question was asked but I have a cheap 3D printer which never came on, but the stepper motors do work so can I use those on the ramps 1.4? I ask because the hook up is square not rectangle 2.54 4pin like I have

Comments deleted.

What size are the screws used for the power supply clamp that holds the power supply against rail?

The ones I am using are M4 threads that are 35mm in length. The size might depend on the power supply you are using however. These screws fit tightly in the plastic clamp pieces and protrude from the end by about 5mm when fully inserted.

Board Questions

Can I Use this Board: Currently on my Anet A8 Want to use to start then upgrade to this.

Upgrade Board:

Or should i get the ramps???

Looking for something complete with sd and good quality with touch lcd support

Anyone here from Canada and want to get together for buying parts? I've been screwed over ordering parts for this already. I don't want to take up space here but please message me so we can order together in Canada. Thanks.... [email protected]

Hey pkarza,

I've just finished building my d-bot. I'm just outside of Toronto. You can find most these parts or substitutes for them at places like "Sayal" and "Fastenal". The hot end,heated bed, v-slot and stepper motors are pretty much the only things I purchased online. Sayal actually carries a small selection of 3D printer stuff like filament, fans etc. You can also purchase your arduino here but not the ramps.

The creator of the Cbot is up north, he might have a few good sourcing ideas.

Guys, would these V-slot wheels work with the standard build? http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-FlatV-Type-Plastic-Pulley-Concave-Idler-Gear-p-1038551.html the feedback has been great and the spacer/bearings are included.
Any ideas? Cheers and Spauda01, congrats for your work and contributions!

The smaller ones look right, compare the dimensions to the openbuilds mini wheels

They are exactly the same dimensions! i will try them out. As a package, they're quite cheap as they include the bearings and spacer. i will assume these will be a direct replacement for the V-wheel assembly section, am i right? :P

Cheers and thanks for the help!

Sep 8, 2016 - Modified Sep 8, 2016

Hi, do you have a actually D-BOT Firmware Version with Marlin 1.1.0-RC7?

Sep 8, 2016 - Modified Sep 8, 2016

I used Cbot onlineCalc 300 Width 200 Length and lead 500
Still a bit confused about lead screws is it the correct size 500?

And could you please tell me if it is correct do i have all this correct


If i wanted to go to 300 x 300 lead same size?

Cbot and Dbot are two different printers. Everything you need to build a Dbot just like the one in the pictures is on the thing files page

I am in need of advice. I finally turned everything on and it's all looking good except for the Z steppers. They are not smooth at all and they only go down regardless of the direction I send them. The jumpers are all set and the drivers are at .55 volts. Any help is appreciated.

Make sure hey are plugged into the ramps board correctly and that the pins are set well. I was having this problem and it was my poor clamping of the stepper motor wires.

Havent bought one yet. Just saw mention of both. With the dc-ac relay should be able to to run an ac bed to the dc power supply through the relay right?

Is the ssr relay for the heated bed supposed to be a dc-dc relay or a dcac relay?

Do you have an ac or dc bed

Has anyone found an alternate source for the bed and extruder springs? The Home Depot link in the BOM as I last saw it does not appear to work anymore

Where is the build guide?

Found the BOM File now your version no tnuts correct


Hi All,
I am at a loss and need some help. I am completing my build (started in April :P) and have loosely hooked everything up and the only thing I can get to work is the heated bed. It seems that I am not getting any voltage out of D9 and D10 when activating fan or extruder heater and none of the steppers move either. I have been working mainly on the extruder heater and not trouble shot the steppers quite yet but I imaging it is related. I have built printers and am a little familiar with the RAMPS 1.4 board but still a novice.
I have swapped the ramps+mega boards and also the power supply with the exact same issues. I must be missing something but 3 days of redoing wiring and google have me back at square one. Suggestions are welcome. I am thinking maybe a firmware thing.?

I should note... 12v verified on the 5a and 11a inputs with both boards and both power supplies. Also, also...the only LED I ever see go active is the USB activity and the heated bed LED.


There are two polyfuses on the two inputs, 5a and 11a. The 5a fuse could be bad. Can you measure resistance across each fuse?

Hi spauda01, Thank you for all the work you put into this printer. I can only imagine how much time you dedicated to this. It is truly appreciated!

If I am measuring correctly, I am getting .2 - .3 on all of the polyfuses on both boards. Pretty much the same reading I get when measuring the probes against each other. I am using an Innova 3320 meter. Measured both from the solder joints and wire leads. Does this tell me anything?


What voltage do you read across the diode next to the fuses?

anode to cathode I get about .500 on both RAMPS boards. Reversed I get O.L


oops, I did a diode function reading... I'll check volts. Test volts with an open or closed circuit? Sorry for my ignorance...

Thanks for taking the time to help me out!

voltage while powered up

Diode fluctuates between 11.9 and 12.1 volts

I did reading on the 2nd board and it is reading around 1.2v...

checked the first board again and the first reading it was about 12v but now every consecutive reading I am getting about 15v....
Do i maybe just bad luck and have 2 junk boards that are exhibiting the exact same issues? Too much of a coincidence?

Did you check that your installed the stepper drivers facing the right way? If you power on you can probe one of the pins on each stepper drivers to see if 12v is getting to each stepper, its one of the corner pins

Steppers are in correct per the board markings. Vmot to Vmot, gnd to gnd, etc...
Steppers are all measuring about .54v. Measure from pot to stepper gnd, correct?

That sounds right for stepper current tuning. confirmn 12v from Vmot to gnd on each driver board

Sep 8, 2016 - Modified Sep 8, 2016
k1nb0te - in reply to spauda01

I get what I think is weird readings form vmot to gnd. When reading + probe on vmot and - probe on gnd I get a negative 13 to 14. When I reverse probes + to gnd and - to vmot I get 13 - 14v. Is that sound weird to you?

I should note since I have not yet... I did not wire my endstops like your diagram. No shared lines. I wired each endstop directly and terminated normally on the RAMPS board. They all register good for open\triggered From M119 but could this be causing my issue in any way?

Doesn't sound normal. check polarity of your wires from ps to ramps input connector and measure voltage at each

Polarity is correct. Both inputs read +12v.
I had a 3rd board overnighted that I just had delivered. I am going to hook that up to see what I get.

Printer is now working... It was very strange. Nothing worked except the heat bed until I ran a testcode firmware,. Everything shook and heated up. I re-flashed with the Marlin-Dbot firmware and I was then able to move the motors and heat the extruder. This process worked on the 2nd board also so I am not sure what the issue is.

New problem. Bed orientation is off in Repetier and after I setup in Simlify3D also. In Repetier the previews shows the model is in the middle but it prints in the front right corner. Same in simlify3D. It shows the model in the middle but it tries to print to far to the front left and crashes into the front bar. Any suggestions what I am missing?


Is it homing correctly? Can you home each axis via software? Just double check repetier is set up like the build guide shows including the bed shape tab

It does home correctly on all 3 axis from Repetier and S3D. I followed the build guide and I believe I hit every step and matched the screen shots. For S3D I am taking my best guess at setup since the setting are similar but not exactly the same.

The only weird homing issue is X does not home after parked on home but this is a Marlin issue according to the documentation, correct?

If the gantry is all the way back, x will not home, you have to manually pull the gantry forward a little bit. If you hit home all it should go x,y,z, so you dont need to do that every time

I'll double check the bed shape when I get home tonight. Thanks!

my heater block wires are going to be to short to my board - is there any recommendation that I should use to extend them other than regular wire (16, 14 awg), etc?

hi have you got a full parts list for this

everything is in the files - BOM, build guide, diagrams, etc. .... spauda01 has done an absolutely fantastic job in listing out all the parts and build guide!

hello . better pla or abs for this project?

ABS if you can already print it reliably, otherwise PLA works

Definitely ABS for everything that has any stress on it. The only things I would print in PLA would be things like the End Caps for the front of the bed frame and the Power Switch Box. The V-Slot thin strips that hide wiring could be PLA also. I suppose you may be OK printing the Ramps Board Box in PLA but because of the heat you may be better off using ABS on that also.

I'm still in the printing phase of my project and I'm just going to print everything in ABS. Thought about doing a color coordinated scheme with colors for different parts using Red-White-Blue but concluded that it may just look too tacky.

i have printed all parts with ABS+
they say its easyer to print with than normal ABS and stronger
try that

Filastruder E3D v6 Bowden vs the eBay version?
I've been researching info about the hotend and saw the one listed in the BOM sells for about $75. Sellers on other sites such as eBay claim to have the E3D v6 Bowden for about $15. Now at first glance this seems like an extraordinary deal but as I've learned in the past, for the most part you usually get what you pay for. I know there has to be a major difference in these products, but why is there such a huge difference in price? Can these be knockoffs with inferior components? Has anyone tried using these cheap extruders?

A genuine E3Dv6 is worth the $74.

Problems with the fakes/knockoffs:

  1. Some say they are 'All Metal' yet have a PTFE tube in the heat break (not all metal)
  2. Quality is sub-par. Rough interior chambers cause fiament jams
  3. Wrong dimensions. They hardly ever get the 'cold zone' correct. This causes molten filament to get into the heat sink area and causes filament jams.
  4. Cheap quality parts. E3D's HeaterBlock and new cartridge thermistor are top quality. You get what you pay for on the knock-offs.

The list goes on...

I'm not saying you cant get one of the knockoffs to work, but you will have to do more fussing/tweaking/replacing. If you don't want to spend the money on the real E3D, the E3Dv6 Light is half the price.. or you can find a good quality J-Head (one thats not trying to be an E3D).

i bought 2 of the cheap $15 versions.
Both would jam for no reason. got frustrated and bought the e3d lite genuine.
Havent had a problem since.

I knew there had to be a reason for the difference. I suppose I just needed some reassurance before doing something stupid like going cheap on the most important part of the project.

Also noticed that Filastruder sells the E3D v6 already assembled to make it somewhat easier.

I wouldn't pay extra for the assembled one... its super easy to put together (especially now with the new cartridge thermistor).

You can find good-cheap non-E3D extruders if you look around on ebay. I have a $20 extruder on my Prusa i3 that has been rock solid for over a year.

However, i still like the E3D on my D-Bot better :)

Filastruder are just a reseller for e-3d but from what I have read about the chinese knock-offs, the original is better but YMMV as with all chinese copies.

Sep 2, 2016 - Modified Sep 2, 2016

Hello Spauda01. I have a question for you. I configure Repetier firmware for this printer. Where is 0 point corner on print bed when i stand on printer front and witch direction is X+ Y+ when i click + on repetier host on this axes?

My printer homes to the back left. +x is right and +y is away from you. home position is (0,200) in cartesian coordinates

Hello, I wanted to know the difference if the print structure in Nylon see PETG??

Aug 30, 2016 - Modified Aug 30, 2016

Very impressive documentation. Co-workers usually call me the doc freak but now I have found my master.

I'm going for a 300x300 mm version of this build and have most of the parts ordered. The only difference is I'm replacing the PCB heatbed by a quite expensive Keenovo silicon heater mat, which will be stuck under a custom 3mm anodised aluminum sheet to serve as printing surface (on top of which I might add a glass sheet if more convenient).

I have a question concerning dimensions - I'm cutting the aluminum sheet slightly larger than the heatbed but can't decide on the exact dimensions. It should be larger than the heatbed to leave room for the 4 support/levelling screws, so I'm thinking: 320x320mm. What is the exact X and Y spacing between the 4 vertical screws of the Z platform? I need to make this aluminum sheet wide enough to place the holes but small enough so as not to obstruct anything on the sides.

Any recommendations? i know I could just wait to assembled eveything THEN figure it out.

Aug 31, 2016 - Modified Oct 23, 2016
printingSome - in reply to sdawans

I also decided to build this very attractive printer, well, the J-Bot variety, 300x300mm, and I also ordered a silicon heater mat, a "3d printer heated bed heatbed 300*300mm, 220V, NTC 100K Thermistor, Silicone Heater with M3 sticker, Good Quality"from China.
For the plate I decided on a "TAZ 3D printer parts Reprap 300 x 300mm bed plate mount aluminum bed mount plate 3mm thickness" in China, which seemed to answer that very question, which I had too.
It has a great of holes already and I'll see what I can do with it, when I get to it. ;-).
Edit: That was a mistake, I think. It is so un-flat that I won't even try it and am going to accept it as a loss. ;-(
Because I would still have to buy the glass etc. to try it out.
So I ordered 1x Präzisionsplatten - 300x300mm from filafarm.de. And I am going to try printbite. No glass etc.
A lot of money altogether, but I hope to have learned from that mistake.
Edit, again: the holes in this plate were a little distant from the corner, so I returned the plate and got me a plate of 326x326mm, 3-holes, with the same seller. Now I have all the room I could dream of. ;-)
By the way, I really wonder what it is with the flatness of the alumium plate.
Of course, how flatter, the better.
But I still print on glass and I want to be able to exchange that quickly and the flatness of that is the ultimate decider, I would think.
And for the room that you always will have between the alumium and the glass, however small, which would hamper thermal conductivity, I use "Silicone Fiberglass Baking Sheet Rolling Dough Pastry Cakes Bakeware Liner Pad Mat Oven Pasta Cooking Tools Kitchen Accessories", indeed, from China.
That takes also care of little specs of material that would perhaps get on the alu plate, when exchanging the glass.
It goes well on my "old" printer, as far as I can see.
Edit: well, it still does work well on my old printer, but for this new printer I changed course, as you can see above.
A roll in this played the comment of KDan a couple of days ago (KDan - in reply to spiffcow Sep 26, 2016). Thanks KDan.

Good idea, I hadn't considered improving the adhesion between glass and aluminum. I know aluminum will dilate more than the glass obviously, but I assumed I'd get a good enough thermal conduction by pressing them together with binder clips and letting gravity do the rest.

I got the 750W version of those 300x300 Keenovo mats. Quite expensive but won't have to wait much to reach stable temperatures. I keep reading posts of people struggling to reach recommended ABS temperatures with 200x200 PCBs, I can imagine it's worse at 300x300 for the same power density. I also like the fact they are directly on AC, I don't want to draw too much current from cheap ATX-like power supplies especially given the ambient temperature is higher than a standard office space.

Well, I hoped the 300W would be enough. And, whilst I bought a not-so-cheap, but very, very quiet, ATX12 PSU to replace the PSU of the old one, I had decided to use that cheap thing for the J-Bot, at least for the time being, exactly because of the AC-silicone.

Aug 31, 2016 - Modified Aug 31, 2016
sdawans - in reply to printingSome

My choice was partly motivated by this post, which I found helpful: https://sites.google.com/site/321soldersucker/random-ramblings/sortingouttheheatedbedissueswithflexiblesiliconpads

To get a rough idea of the power, this was also helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eure74A9HNc

He mentions it's nice to have around 0.6W/cm². For a 300x300mm that's around 540W. My 750W is overkill, just figured it would be faster and easier to reach high temperatures. With 300W, if you have trouble reaching a stable temperature you can probably insulate the lower side of the silicon pad to reduce heat loss. Should definately be manageable though because you are still at 0.33W/cm² and you don't have all the nastiness of FR4 bending of the PCB solutions.

Thanks for the links. I am hopeful. ;-)
I use cork with my old printer and I ordered 10mm cork for this one:
the 60 x 30 cm one, so I am covered there.

Comments deleted.
Aug 30, 2016 - Modified Aug 30, 2016
TheLost - in reply to sdawans

Most 300x300 heat beds are normally around 327mm x 327mm .. This image should give you what you need for hole placement:

There is no 'exact' spacing for the X and Y holes.. you can adjust for whatever you need (move the arms apart for more/less Y space.. Move the bed support pieces for more/less X space).

Take a look at spauda01's great build-guide page 23 & 24 to see what i'm talking about.

If you are located in the U.S.. and have not purchased the aluminum for your bed yet, i would highly recommend MidWest Steel and Aluminum. One of the best options for a 'FLAT' build plate is AT5 Jig Plate:

Right, you've answered the real question: is there some slack to adjust X and Y spacing to my needs? It wasn't very clear just how much moving space there is. I'll cut them 325x325 to be safe. Thank you.

I'm in Belgium and I just called a local workshop that offers anodised aluminum sheets and that can cut a 325x325 piece for about 20€, I'll give it a try, can't beat that price. If anyone in Belgium is interested here is the link: http://www.hobby-alu.be/fr/leaflet.pdf

I'll post my reworked BOM when it's done for anyone looking for all-Benelux suppliers at a reasonable cost (except for a couple parts from China).

I am looking at the documentation and I am really impressed.
Thank you very much for all those efforts, important as they are for me to get a good idea of what I am probably going for.

How did you calculate the 400 steps for the Z-axis?

It depends on what type of lead screw you have..

2mm pitch 4-start (8mm per turn) = 400
2mm pitch single start (2mm per turn) = 1600

Aug 28, 2016 - Modified Aug 28, 2016
geoxile - in reply to TheLost

It's a TR8x8, I guess the second 8 means 8mm per turn? Thanks.

Edit: Would actually measuring the travel pf the Z-axis and using it to calculate the steps give better results than a theoretical calculation?

If you picked up a good quality lead screw you shouldn't have to measure anything. i'm a fan of just following the prusa calculator.. if my prints are off i fix the hardware not the math :)

I'm using 400mm leadscrew integrated nema17 motors from robotdigg. They're supposed to be good quality but I think that depending on the altitude of the bed the distance traveled changes.

It shouldn't matter where the bed is.. one revolution/turn is 2mm or 8mm (up or down) depending on your lead screw (single or 4 start).

For every revolution a consistent distance is traveled. If your lead screws don't follow this rule you may want to pick up new ones.

Aug 27, 2016 - Modified Aug 27, 2016

Hi, I am building my model of D-bot: @Spauda01 (or some makers) have thought of a possible solution to close the print volume? To facilitate the printing of ABS and similar materials. I was thinking about the Plexiglas walls and printed supports anchored to the alu profiles. I think it is not possible to make 100% airtight, but at least to eliminate the external air corrente..

Thank you! I was looking for an easier way to apply only on the walls, less sophisticated than the E-bot (but also less efficient ;) ) if I have time I'll do some sketches

Something Like this :-)


Not finished yet but getting there.

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

I found this 300x300 heater bed online. Anyone have any opinions/suggestions on this? It's 12v, 20a, 400w. With the suggested in BOM power supply, I'm planning on using 2 power supplies, one for electronics (suggested in BOM) and one for the bed.

power supply for bed- https://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-AC110V-Switch-Supply-Driver/dp/B019RNKOK6/ref=sr_1_21?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472206569&sr=1-21&keywords=power+supply+12v+switching

300x300 silicone rubber heated bed- http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=29

Any suggestions?

Aug 25, 2016 - Modified Aug 25, 2016

Spauda01, so when is the v2 build coming out?

front/rear supported gantry
auto leveling mount(s)
support for direct drive extruder (Toranado?)
maybe 24v all around...

All off these have been done by various builders of the original C-bot

Sep 11, 2016 - Modified Sep 11, 2016
lentiman - in reply to cfeniak

Not everything. I've yet to see a extruder mount for the Toranado direct extruder that will work for the D-Bot. I'll consider that my contribution to the D-bot to design a new front and rear plate. This is beyond my capabilities currently, but I learn fast. If anyone else is doing this though please post the stl file.

Aug 26, 2016 - Modified Aug 26, 2016
TheLost - in reply to lentiman

I'm curious about the front/rear supported gantry.. I'm not sure this would improve print quality. Has anybody done it, and if so.. why?

I have done it on my build (a close cousin of the D-Bot) and yes, it does improve quality. The issue is that the side mounted configuration has a tendency to jostle a bit when changing directions. That's a problem if you use auto-leveling or lift-on-retraction

Most people are doing all that already, no need for David to release anything.

Plenty remixes and information out there to do what you have asked for.. and its not hard to find.

Hi guys, reference the discussion below about heatbeds and power supplies, I mentioned this 300x300 bed:

the problem is the 24v 600w power supply that's needed is huge and expensive. Looking at the specs its around 1ohm resistance, at 24v pulls around 550w power so even that beefy psu would struggle, so I was thinking...

If I had a 24v psu, the volts would have to be stepped down to 12v for the electronics, but I could also step down the volts to the bed, if I ran it at 16v it would pull around 250w which is much better.

the 300x200 one is about 140w which is 0.23w/cm3, The arrangement above is 0.27w/cm3 so performance should be around the same shouldn't it?

With this setup I could use the nice 300x300 silkscreen pcb bed, keep everything dc power and use a sensible PSU.

Anybody have any thoughts / comments on this?



thats what i did, [email protected] heats up pretty fast still.

Whats your goal? Fast heat up time or a cool looking bed? IF you just want the nice looking bed just power it all off 12 so you dont need a 24v psu and a dcdc converter.

First of all, I would like to thank you for publishing such a fantastic guide, even I should be able to manage the build ... at least, that's my plan :-)
Do you have a clearer image of the 300x300 cutting list please, for some reason it doesn't show up clearly for me.

Hi Guys, first of all thanks spauda01 for the amazing work you have done here, this is an excellent build, and I'm about to embark on mine.

I want to do the 300X300 version, but when it comes to heated beds, the reprap pcb types will require a ton of dc power to heat up in any reasonable time, and also cost a fortune for a huge dc power supply. So I've been looking at the ac silicone heaters which seems to solve all problems, just using a small dc power supply for the printer and an ac ssr for the bed... problem solved, apart from some concerns over 230V of power here in the UK!

There is a wiring guide in the appendix for this, but there is no mention of earthing the chassis. Looking at the design, I think the whole frame completes a circuit, so I believe this would just be a case of grounding on the aluminium extrusion at the bottom near the ac in, and then running a cable to connect the bed to the frame. I think I'll connect this up and get a local expert to verify before I actually fire it up, but does anybody have any experience of this that could offer some guidance or have any wiring diagrams to hand?

Thanks in advance


I used this... actually used the glass and pei too but its only 24v 15a so you dont need a huge power supply. It heats up very well and quickly. I can heat to 60deg and have the hotend to 160deg before my Di3 heats to 60deg. Costs more but its been a good choice for me. Only downside is you need to come up with a mounting system for it.

Hi, thanks for that. This looks like a good option. I'm glad to hear you've had success with it and it heats up quickly. Regarding mounting, I'm thinking of 3mm aluminium plate cut to size, stick this to the underside, and drill holes in the corners to use the existing mounting system in the guide. I presume something like a 24v 400w PSU would be sufficient for this setup?

Yeah I got this one (400W)... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201111551914

So far its working, I do get some "ticking" noises out of it when the PWM starts to kick in and stabilize the heat bed but as with all chinese stuff, YMMV.

A 300x300 pcb type heater shouldnt draw too much current relative to the power supply. My pcb heater is a 200x300 and it draws about 10A during ramp up (max draw) so a 300x300 would draw approximately 15A during ramp up. On a 30a power supply thats plenty of margin when also adding 5A max for other loads.

Look around for 300x300 pcb beds and see what their stated power, current, or resistance ratings are.

I only recommend AC beds for advanced users due to the dangerous voltages involved but if you want to go that route but I believe the silicone mat AC heaters are isolated.

For earth ground, connecting the earth ground to the power supply grounds that chassis and attaching the power supply to the frame bonds the main chassis, although most rails are just touching and arent properly bonded but it should be sufficient.

Oh.. and thanks for the reply!

I was looking at this model by the same seller as the 300x200 one linked in BOM:
its around 24A on 24V, I would need about a 600w power supply and also have to step down the voltage for the other electronics. I really like the silk screen grid on these beds though, Has anyone seen this type of bed with a higher resistance so it doesn't need such an expensive PSU?

24v is definitely more complicated than 12v, you would need something like a 600w 24v psu

Oh, and all the work you've done on the guide, bom and designs is very much appreciated, when I have the funds to start this project I will make sure to tip you, and i hope other builders do too. You've saved a lot of people a lot of time and money, well done!

I don't mind so much the 24v as you can step down the volts in line to the ramps, its just a 600w psu bumps up the cost... a lot!
As I mentioned I really like the bed design sold by reprap me with the silk screen grid, it's nice and simple and looks really good, but the 200X300 is around 130w, then as soon as you go to the 300x300 one they dropped the resistance to 1 ohm meaning it draws around 550w! If they had that design, at around 250w it would be perfect!

Thats the advantage of an AC bed, no 600w psu needed and your 12v psu can actually be smaller too, on the order of 10A. Converting 500W of power to 24v just to turn it into heat is pretty much a waste of such an expensive psu. Just make sure if you go the AC bed route to be very careful with all connections

Exactly my thinking, and exactly my concerns. Might just consult an electrician to be safe!

The anodized coating on the aluminum V-slot is actually very insulating. I checked continuity between parts of the frame and more often than not they're not connected.
To be on the safe side you might want to drill holes through the slot and connect grounding wires with bolts.

Aug 24, 2016 - Modified Aug 24, 2016
MrBlom - in reply to spauda01

Hello spauda01 thank you for a grate design !
im about to build a 24v version (all components )
is a 30A PSU also enough when using 24v?
i have a hard time finding 30A 24v

Read some where that a 2A motor at 12v only uses 1A at 24v
if so would this PSU be good enough?

Thank you!

It depends what kind of heated bed you will use

Aug 24, 2016 - Modified Aug 24, 2016
MrBlom - in reply to spauda01

same as you i think
maybe not :) found this
(Running 24V on a 12V setting will heatup the heatbed to 100 degree Celsius in only 2 minutes (while consuming 443 - 576 Watts!!!))

Aug 24, 2016 - Modified Aug 24, 2016
Wigwam82 - in reply to MrBlom

24v 15A produces the same wattage as 12v 30A (24v 30A is over 600w), unless its needed, I would just stick with the 12v.
Ah just seen what your trying to achieve, the fast heat up time. Your having the same trouble as me and the 300x300 bed. The power supply is expensive!

"KDan" says in this thread and i read it on other places that running the hole system on 24v will make it a better printer
so when building something from scratch why not

why not mod the ramps 1.4 to 24v and goo all in :)

or am i missing something ?

From what I can gather, you can reduce some wiring sizes etc. How do you mod a ramps for 24v?

I have bought both M5 Hex Nuts and M5 Square Nuts and neither fit into the V-Slots? Help

The square nuts need to say DIN-562 square nuts from wherever you got them. I'm assuming you didnt get them from mrmetric

Has anyone tried running the belt with a twist (i.e. 180 rotation between the motor and rear idler) so that the belt teeth aren't hitting the various pulleys?

Oct 20, 2016 - Modified Nov 8, 2016
kabrokes - in reply to powis

I thought of that as well, but just got to that stage. I rotated the belt 180 degrees along the length of the build, by rails E and F so it would have the length of the build to rotate the 180 degrees before hitting the motors and pulley. Also, if you look closely at the pictures, the back of the carriage has the belt smooth portion to the carriage and the belt tooth portion to the belt clamps, so there is the switch.

Is this working for you?

My DBot is up and working. So far I haven't noticed any ill effect of rotating the drive belt 180 degrees on the long run to the stepper motor. Looks good to me, I don't hear any binding, but I'm a newbie, so don't really know what I should be looking for. Hope this helps.

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016

So I'm building the D-Bot and I'm having some issues getting the motors to work.

I'm using Nema 17 Stepper motors found at openbuilds.com


Ramps 1.4 3D printer controller with Mega 2560 and A4988 2A Drivers


my issue, currently, is with the Z axis. While the build guide says to run it off of .55 volts. it doesn't seem to want to work properly when both Z-axis motors are connected at the same time. The results are not consistent. here is a video of exactly what is going on.


Any help would be much appreciated.

You Z movement speed is way too high, it wouldn't ever rotate this fast in use.

Get the fan on the stepper drivers all the time - you can get away with playing for a few minutes without it (lid off) if the machine has just been powered on, but if you want to rule out overheating then it needs the fan on there while testing because the stepper motors are usually energized, so generating heat even if nothing is in motion.

I also wouldn't try and make any measurements based on comparing how many revolutions you estimate the motor is doing for the various movement distances - 1 revolution does not necessarily equal 10mm of travel, etc. Get the lead screws and bed on there and then work with real distances would be my advice.

He fixed it, didn't have microstepping pins in place

what firmware? I'm running the newest Marlin and it allows you to use E1 as a second Z stepper. Gets around that issue.

Using the latest firmware. 1.6.11

Aug 22, 2016 - Modified Aug 22, 2016
Ocmoho - in reply to Nyghtpoison

have you tested the x and y axis? maybe your steps are off(1/32 or 1/16 etc)
are all jumpers installed?

so I did some research, it appears that the jumpers were not installed on the Ramps board to enable 1/16 micro stepping. I found this http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf which cleared some stuff up. The ramps, Arduino, and drivers came assembled, so I never thought of checking the configuration.

Aug 22, 2016 - Modified Aug 22, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to Nyghtpoison

From the build guide page 53: "Verify jumpers are placed on all pairs of pins under each of the stepper driver boards"


I guess I didn't read it as detailed as I should have. I do want to thank you for your help giving some suggestions as what was going on. A learning experience for me, embarrassing, but an experience none the less. The motors are now working, what appears to be exactly the way they are suppose to.

Be sure to read all steps, double check connections on things like the wiring diagram including small wires, maybe print it out and highlight wires as you go. Check off items in the build guide as you go too

I have tested the X and Y as well. there are issues there as well.



can you expand on these? I'm new to this and I'm going by the build guide itself. So unless its in there I'm in the wind. ;)

Comments deleted.

Looks like you are running those motors way faster than they would ever be used at. Did you change the max speed and accel settings?

Your board looks the same as mine, I run each stepper driver at 0.55v and they all work fine, you dont need to increase the limit for two motors. Your motors are different than mine but have similar specs. Double check your wiring because that is different.

Mine at each motor connector is Red,Green,Yellow,Blue,
Yours needs to be Green,Yellow,Red,Blue according to the datasheet.

If you are controlling via repetier host, turn down the z speed in settings.

I made all the changes that were described in the build guide. I just went back to verify the settings and they all match.

I also had questions regarding the wiring. I thought the wiring should be G, Y, R, B, but it came wired as Y, G, B, R

in regards to the z speed, are you referring to the Z-Axis feed rate? its currently set to 600.

I don't remember what I have it set to in repetier for manual Z control but when i move my bed up and down, the z motors are going about 1rev/sec

Can someone tell me how to stick wires to the cork

Do you mean connect wires to the bed? Why would you connect wires to cork

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016
deuse - in reply to spauda01

In your pictures you have the thermistor and positive and earth running along the cork bed.
What did you use to keep them attached to the cork?


I see what you mean, thats JBweld epoxy, the same thing that attaches the cork to the heated bed

Aug 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 21, 2016
deuse - in reply to spauda01

Thank you. Just buying some now.

I used Heatsink Plaster for the cork bed and it stuck very well.

Finally get back to this project and am going to level the bed and have some very inconsistent results across the bed. Anything i can check right off. Gantry seems to be level off the back rale but arms are a bit off, guess i can fix that with z grove wheels at the back? Also seems a lot of difference left to right. Any ideas would be helpful. TIA

Arms coming off the rear might not be 100% square. Unless they are out by a lot, in the grand scheme of things, it doesnt matter. As long as the heat bed and build plate are flat when printing. Whole point of having an adjustable heat bed, not everything is going to be 100% square.

Anyone use an adapter like this one? - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723

The stock 30mm fan is so loud!

E3D v6 Hotend - 40mm Fan Duct
by loco
Aug 19, 2016 - Modified Aug 19, 2016

We are considering offering a kit of the pieces required for this printer. We are a canadian Reseller of Openbuilds componets. If you are interested please let us know, Store is makerparts.ca

Are people looking for just the Aluminum or also the printed parts?
Please let us know [email protected]

I'm looking to make this, and believe I can on my small Printrbot Play. I've noticed that some files (1-endstopZ, 1-extruder, both print carriages, both rear idlers, 2-motor-mount) have solid holes where screws should go through. It appears that most of the holes are attachment points to the OpenBuild frame. Is this a file error, or do I need to drill the holes prior to assembly?

Read build guide page 9

Ahh, there we go. Thanks!

I found a local source for some 'upgraded' bits.. however, I had to buy in bulk (100 at a time).

Aluminum Wheel Spacers (8mm OD x 5.1mm ID x 7mm)
Aluminum Bearing Shims (8mm OD x 5.1mm ID x 1mm)

If you want my leftovers (and are in the U.S) shoot me a message.. I'll let you have them for my cost, which is lower than anything I found online.

If I could get some spacers that would be amazing! The ones in my machine suck and I am having a hard time printing them.

anyone with a 300x300 build have an approximate location they mounted the z motors to the bed at, that doesn't bind?

All depends on the weight of your bed... I lifted the assembly by the tip of my finger to find where it felt the smoothest to lift.

I finally finished my printer some time last week, and had couple of successful prints. However, It seems like my bed level gets out of tune after every print. after troubleshooting it for couple of nights, I found out that the z axis has some play to it. so for example when the z end stop engage, the front of the bed platform moves up a little, and then it goes back down.

I've also tried using one of those induction sensors I had laying around, didn't work too well. I wonder if it's because the same issues.

Did anyone else encounter a similar issue, where the z platform is not very stable?

Make sure the wheels are all in contact with the vslots... they need to have a firm grip on rails 'A' and 'B' to reduce movement.

Its also important to make sure rails 'O' and 'P' on the Z Platform don't sag/wiggle/move. I use aluminum corner brackets rather than printed ones just to be safe (you can get 4 for $2 on ebay).

I'll try out the aluminum corner brackets, I got ones that fit a regular 2020 extrusion, will see if they fit.

In regards to the wheels, should they be very tight against the v-slot?

I made sure all my wheels on the Z platform are tight enough that it's hard (but not impossible) to turn them with my fingers. The Z wheel guides are split into 2 parts so you can adjust each side (front/back) individually to get the correct fit (i assume this is why it was designed this way). It takes a few minutes to get right... but easy once you get the hang of it.

Any good guides on getting started printing? Getting pretty frustrated with under extrusion and slipping.
It also seems to jam everyday requiring a break down of the hotend.
Is there some etiquette that I am missing after a print to prevent jams? I can usually get an under extruded print but can do another one after.

What hotend are you using? a genuine E3D, knockoff or other?

It is the genuine one from the BOM from filastruder.

The under extrusion and slipping are more than likely related to the jamming. Start by googling 'e3d v6 jamming' and you will find a lot of pseudo-science and some practical tips to try and identify/resolve your issues.

I don't know that there are any post print procedures for reducing jamming, a well adjusted setup doesn't require anything in my experience - just don't turn the machine off straight after the print, you want the fan on the hot end heatsink to keep the heat from travelling up the heat break until the hot end has cooled down below the glass temperature for your material, otherwise you'll be in for a world of pain.

make sure your extruder spring is tight. make sure your hot end fan always runs, it should never turn off as long as power is on. after a print, don't turn off the power right away, wait until the hot end gets to 50c or below before turning off power.

At first the polarity of my fan wasn't right so that was obvious but I will def try leaving it on and letting it cool down before turning it all off.
How tight should the spring be? I crank it down to hand tight, should I use a tool to tighten?

Tight enough that when you print and watch the extruder, the bearing should turn with the motor, if it doesnt, try to retighten

Aug 14, 2016 - Modified Aug 14, 2016

I have a problem about y axis shaking please watch video.
I checked belt tension and pulley position. This shaking hapen not a straight line on y axis.
Any solutions?


bad bearing or motor shaft bent?

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016
ekkutlu - in reply to uglybob

I Checked every parts still shaking :(

When you move it around with your hand is it smooth?

When I removed belt on carriage its moving by hand smoothly, its shows us carriage alignment okey but i connect belt on carriage again y axis shaking moving by hand. :(

I think you have narrowed it to your belt + belt components then. Look that everything is true and tracking as straight as possible. Move it by hand watching each component. I can only provide limited advice as my core xy isn't built yet.

Aug 14, 2016 - Modified Aug 14, 2016

I added 114mm to the length of all the frame pieces lengthwise in order to make a 16x8" print bed and when I added up all the lengths of the frame parts my lengths are not really longer than the total length of slot extrusions in the bill of materials. Is there leftover frame extrusions if I were to make the regular sized printer? I should be adding 342mm to the 20x40 rods and 456mm to the 20x20mm rods total. With this added length my totals are 2974mm worth of 20x20 rod and 5113mm total of 20x40 rod. Why are my totals so close to the totals in the original BOM? Did you include extra? I realize I'll need a bit extra for cutting, and did not add that in to these totals yet.

Look at the rail cut diagram in the build guide, you will see how the pieces fit on the rails and where the scrap lengths are

Does anyone get wobble or shaking in Y direction? I have to reduce the speed to 15mm/s (perimeter, infill and anything), acceleration 800mm/s2, jerk about 5 to minimize the wobble. it's too slow. my previous cheap printer can do faster without problem.
the wobble only occurs in Y direction, not in X direction. The bed also shaking because of that wobble.
if I hold the top frame, the wobble disappear.
Yes, I already tighten all screw. I'm thinking to add brace on the left and right frame to stiffen the frame. I'm wondering what did i do wrong.

I only finished ordering the parts yesterday evening, for the time being, so I can't see any movements yet. ;-)
Still, I already was wondering, and again this morning, whether I would add some diagonal strips across the sides and the back. It is because of the hoped for stiffness that I decided to build it. (well, the J-bot version).
Especially when I read about the cracks in the PLA, I wondered.
It would certainly not add to the beauty of the printer, alas, but still...
I think that I will decide on that when I will have the frame live in front of me. Can't wait. ;-)

Can you post any videos? Sounds like something that definitely shouldnt happen

I'll do it next monday. It's almost midnight here, and I left the printer on my workshop. :D
One more, everytime i print jolly 3d benchy on my old printer, i never could to make it print the 3dbenchy nameplate on the backside of the ship. Using D-Bot, even with some shaking, i can see the name plate, and from the certain angle i can read it (very hard to read). :D I'm using 0.4 nozzle. so happy to have one good printer. Great job spauda01.

I just finished building my D-Bot and I'm seeing the same issue fast Y movements move the entire printer and table. I still have my acceleration set to the defaults but I'm thinking I might decrease the Y acceleration limit, should I keep X and Y acceleration matched?

The default settings should work fine, what software are you controlling your printer with? are you manually commanding it to move or is it during printing? Did you put 3 jumpers under each stepper driver?

Aug 13, 2016 - Modified Aug 13, 2016

I finally got everything together and the Z motors work fine but X, Y and the extruder pulsate and sound horrible. I googled for a couple of hours and tried upping and lower the drivers but that didn't change anything. I also tried the ABDC and BACD configs on the wires and nothing.
Kinda frustrating, any ideas anyone?
Also can't get my endstops to work. m119 shows them as all open with no change when triggering.

Check your stepper jumpers. I was missing a set of them with my RAMPS board and it caused my Z axis motors to not turn/make horrible noises.

As for the endstops I'd check in the firmware to see if you have max end stops enabled. For whatever reason I had them in my firmware when I downloaded it. Shut those off and your endstops should work fine.

Did you put jumpers under each stepper driver?

Swap the Z and X stepper driver and see if that does anything

Comments deleted.
Aug 13, 2016 - Modified Aug 13, 2016
th3v3rn - in reply to spauda01

All 3 jumpers are in place and I tried swapping and nothing, same behavior.

Here is a video of whats going on. I am using the manual control and increasing by increments of 10. Movement is random.


Even with the extruder motor plugged into the z axis pins I get the behavior. I think I will recrimp them cause these are the only motors I extended.

seems like one or both stepper get wrong current setting on your driver. use volt meter / multitester to measure V ref on each driver. I was stressed when i was tuning blind without volt meter, until (finally) using volt meter and set those driver, and the stepper moves smoothly without pulsating.

So I do have a voltmeter and was able to set them all at .55. I also tried increments down to .3 and up to .7

Seems odd to me. It was occured once to me before. I was lazy and just change the driver with 8825 i have around, put the jumper, and the motor start working. I'm not getting back to 4988 yet to find the problem. I think it could be wrong jumper position or wrong vref value. Or faulty driver (swap the driver with known working set).

I don't think it is the driver cause if I plug in the extruder motor into the z axis pins I get the same behavior. It maybe my crimping abilities, I can never get solid crimps even with the tool. I think I will try that.

What control board do you have?

The RAMPS 1.4.

This is the link - http://m.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Kit-Mega-2560-RAMPS-1-4-5X-A4988-for-Arduino-RepRap-US-Shipping-/262301994587?txnId=1857460125016

Was hoping buying US would avoid hassle, hopefully it's all good.

This is just beautiful. Minimalistic and seems to be stiff.

I wish someone would sell a frame kit for this printer!! Hard to find these parts in Canada.... anyone???

Do you mean the rails or the printed parts?

the rails... I have two printers that I have no problem with pinting PLA with - but I see you don't recommend PLA - I haven't had much good luck with ABS. I was going to print PLA at .1 - but I did find someone selling all the printed parts for a good prince in ABS...

MakerGeek PETG or Raptor Series PLA

My printer is all PLA and while there are some fine cracks in parts I think overall its fine. If anything, build the printer then use it to reprint parts in petg if you think it needs upgraded

Thanks! I will do it - I see you recommend .2mm layers? .1 is so much more accurate.... i wish there was an enterprising person who would make a frame kit with bearings, etc.

You can do 0.1 or 0.2, whichever you prefer.

There's certainly an opportunity for someone to make and sell kits but I wouldn't trust such a thing.

Building a printer and self sourcing the parts means you buy each part and you are responsible for the quality of what you buy. If you just buy a kit someone else put together theres a good chance that they just bought cheap sh1t and threw it in a box. I know there's some pretty cheap chinese parts on here but at least you know which parts those are and you can decide where to make tradeoffs.

Thats what separates a diy build from an off the shelf printer or a kit. You cut the pieces, you select the hardware, you print the parts, and hook it all up and the machine you end up with is all yours and I think its more enjoyable to use.

You can get all of it on aliexpress with free shipping (but would recommend getting the extrusions locally). Sure it might take 3-4 weeks to arrive but goodluck getting all the prints and cutting the extrusions done that quick anyway!

Anyone have Repetier firmware preconfigured for this printer? Can send me? Im not sure how set core xy kinematics in this firmware.

I think it is done in the RAMPS configuration.. as per the build guide. Then repetier commands are translated to corexy movements by your controller.

Marlin firmware and Repetier firmware is two different firmwares.

Doh sorry I have only used repetier as the PC software "repetier host".

Repetier does support corexy. I'm currently using it. Only few lines that had to be changed.

The bottom mounting plate of the Solid State Relay doesn't have any contact with live elements right?

Correct, it is just a heatsink unlike a mosfet where the heatsink tab can be live

I'm having a problem with resonance at lower speeds. When it's moving quickly, it is smooth, but when it's making horizontal movements at low speeds, it shakes. How do I fix this??

That's pretty weird, can you share a video?

Comments deleted.

Looks very slow - I think you should be able to print at twice those speeds.

Aug 11, 2016 - Modified Aug 11, 2016
uglybob - in reply to beepbeep

speed isnt the issue, its the quality of print at low speeds. Generally low speeds should mean clean accurate prints.. not so for the OP. My printer was noisy until I put dampeners on the x/y motors but the quality wasnt worse. Maybe a bad bearing somewhere?

I've been thinking of starting this project but my one of my concerns are plastic on metal on the high stress areas. I'm planing to print the parts in PETG and was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with the durability over time of the gantry due to heat and vibration?

Yes. Im print all parts in PetG and parts cracks. Propably print temp is too high and 100% infill.

There really arent any high stress areas, if you had a cantilevered bed that would hold a lot of stress/torque. I think i had my accel/jerk kind of high initially and would get some rough vibrations but i turned that down in the marlin firmware file. My printer is made from PLA and its been going for months and the only wear is some small cracks in a few parts and i think thats mostly cosmetic and could be from when i had the accel set too high initially. petg or abs parts should be pretty darn strong i think.

Aug 10, 2016 - Modified Aug 10, 2016

anyone know a better solution than a dc-dc relay? im running 24V heated bed/PSU with a 12v step down, but the first time i tried to run the heated bed I think it fused the relay closed, and now whenever powered on it is always heating(yes it was attached to a heatsink). I am going to order another relay, but i really dont want that to happen again in the middle of a print and the printer go up in flames. :(

Did you hook up the 24v side correctly? The situation you describe matches what happens when the output terminals get swapped.

How much current does the bed draw during heatup? What was the current rating of the ssr?

so it may be the wiring. got a new relay and it is the same, I'm hooking up negative straight to psu, and positive to relay output side then to bed same side. there is no diagram for the bed though so I don't know what side is pos or negative, it is the reprap big bed 300x300

Beds don't have positive or negative leads, they are just giant resistors. Look at the dbot electrical diagram pdf and pay attention to the polarity of the top side of the relay

Aug 12, 2016 - Modified Aug 12, 2016
Ocmoho - in reply to spauda01

Yep, i quadruple checked, it matches the diagram perfectly. I think i am just going to blow $25 on a more expensive relay instead of using these cheap fotek relays. Im betting they both were just bad. They worked and even LED worked correctly, but after a few minutes they just fused on and the LED stopped working as well.
edit: Anyone link a good name brand DC-DC relay, having such a hard time finding one.

I'm using a cheap basic relay and it works fine. Look more into the issue before just buying more relays and sticking them in and letting them fail.
What is the max current draw of your bed?
Are you sure the control board isnt unintentionally driving the ssr?
Is the ssr led on when this happens?
What kind of control board are you using?

driving the ssr? is it not supposed to? in the diagram it is hooked straight up to the ramps, I am using ramps, I am using almost everything identical to the bom besides the 300x300 and 24v bed. the led does work then flickers out when it appears to die, then never works again. bringing my multimeter home to test draw today, the ssr was rated at 40amps though.

the vendor for the heated bed should state the max current draw or resistance or max power consumption

thats 576W, what is your power supply even rated for?

That leaves no room for anything else, you practically need two power supplies. Even if your SSR didn't fail, your power supply would fail eventually.

yeah I know, I planned to lower the output on the psu, it is adjustable, to lower the draw

Depending one the firmware and what settings you have but there should be a thermal runaway safety to turn off the printbed or hotend when it gets over a specific temp.

Aug 10, 2016 - Modified Aug 10, 2016
Ocmoho - in reply to uglybob

yes, that is the thing though, if the relay is fused closed(the circuit) it doesnt matter if ramps is telling it to heat or not, it will still supply power to the bed, regardless. That is what happened to me. Only way to stop power is physically turn power off.

That power expander wont work, he's trying to draw ~576W and that part is rated for 250W

Now we know the bed draw... definitely not suitable. Heatsink and some good active cooling might help?

wow nice. thanks for the link looks like that is perfect.