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D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01, published

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
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Summary

Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

Optional Components

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320
Cable Chain - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167746
Vslot Endcaps - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515
Tubing Clips - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213
Bowden retraction stabilizer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Extruder Manual Feed Knob (small) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:474394
Vslot Channel Cover - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

D-Bot and C-Bot Differences

1) The lead screws and Z motors were moved forward to better lift the print bed from its center of gravity rather than use a fully cantilevered print bed.
2) Increased printable Z height to 330mm (~13")
3) Use of 20mm rails for the bottom sections to save cost and reduce bulk.
4) Various adjustments of printable parts, either to add plastic where it seemed like more rigidity was needed or to subtract plastic where it was not needed.
5) Accessories such as a simplified spool holder a cable chain for bed wiring
6) Relocated endstop mounting to maximize Y travel and utilize default homing scheme.
7) Overall reduction in cost compared to the original bill of materials (2$ square nuts vs 40$ Tnuts, etc.)

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Mr Metric doesn't carry M3X25mm socket bolts? Is there an alternative?

Are there any considerations for the Z-axis bed when building a 300x300mm version? I'm worried about tipping of the bed on the far end without any support.

How precise is the fit of the wheels on the aluminum extrusions? Is it comparable to linear bearings on good smooth rods?

Hello is there a reason you Chose PLA or can i just use ABS?

Its just what I had, if you can print ABS that would give more durable parts

It's a beautiful thing. Thanks for the detailed build guide - I hope to make this.

I am currently printing parts out for this build because I absolutely love how clean and organized you've made it.
Do you happen to know where i could find a setup to make it direct drive? I cross messaged over on The Director's Triple C/C-Bot page as well hoping he would be able to point me in the right direction. I still plan on using the E3D v6, but can't quite tell if that's the same hotend he's using.

Thanks!

Look at the printer this one is remixed from, he has a direct drive option

Congrats on your printer, looks really nice.

I got a question. Went thru the build instructions and i didn't see how you are adjusting the wheels fit the extrusions.Openbuilds does it using eccentric spacers but i don't see them during assembly. Wondering if you don't tight that way, how much play you get between wheel and extrusion.

Thanks

The D-bot has oblong holes for the X/Y axes to allow for you to adjust the wheels, and the holes are actually slanted to tighten the wheels against the frame as they're tightened. I'm finishing my build up this weekend, and it's pretty easy to adjust those.

Thanks. That sounds great. One more question on the parts. Do you happen to know what infill and layer height is recommended to print? Thinking 70% @ 0.2mm w/ 0.4mm nozzle. Maybe will go with 0.6 nozzle but 70% @ 0.3mm. Thinking PETG. Any advise and tips are welcome

Definitely no less than 70%, higher if you can. PETG or ABS would be more durable than PLA

I went 90% PETG.... absolutely awesome stuff.. no cracks, no stress marks.. works really well and strong.

first person to print something 12"x8" contact me... Not sure where i will be buried yet...

Cmon, this printer is awesome.. but the build volume is ludicrous....

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago

I have a set of 500mm lead screws (accidentally said threaded rod) that I plan to use in a future build along with a 12"x12" heated bed. Theoretically I should only need to use the cut guide in the appendix and add 100mm to the lengths of rails A, B, C, and D to use them right? I would probably need an extra rail to accomplish this and re-order some of the cuts.

Love the work you have put into this and all the help you continue to give folks building your bot. Presentation is spot-on too!

I wouldnt recommend using threaded rod, lead screws only

4 days ago - Modified 4 days ago
Carrot_or_Stick - in reply to spauda01

Bump (see edited comment above)

Sorry i meant lead screws. I have 2 500mm lead screws with the same specs in your design

Awesome build! I greatly appreciate all of the work spauda01 put into everything. I was wondering what the effects would be if I used these

(http://www.amazon.com/Nema17-Stepper-Motor-4-lead-Connector/dp/B00QEXSCE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464273319&sr=8-1&keywords=nema+17)

steppers instead of the ones listed in the BOM. I already have them so I could save $50 if they'll work. I am not super savvy when it comes to the electrical side of things so I don't know if I would fry anything if I plugged these in without changing any settings.

Those are functionally identical to the ones listed in the BOM, however you get 80% of the rated torque. What this means is you will not be able to run the printer at extremely high accelerations without losing steps, and the extruder will be less powerful.

I prefer to use a geared stepper anyway, and for normal print accelerations (for detail), they should still be fine. The high torque is just to have more headroom and more flexibility when trying to take the printer to its limits.

1 day ago - Modified 1 day ago
KDan - in reply to Masterjuggler

Actually, those motors are quite superior to the ones called out in the BOM. I would say almost ideal. The only thing I would personally prefer is even less rotor inertia on the X-Y motors.

Holding torque is irrelevant - you don't print standing still. Torque at high stepping rates is what matters if you want to achieve high speeds and high accelerations. Those motors have an inductance of 2.6mH, the ones in the BOM are almost double at 4.8mH.

Lower inductance means those motors will have a much flatter torque curve. The ones in the BOM will start off with slightly more torque at 0 RPM, but once the motor starts to spin, the torque will start dropping much faster than the 2.6mH motors from Amazon. You can also buy those motors direct from omc-stepperonline for $9.16 qty 5. There will be shipping charges however, so you'll have to compare final prices. Either way, they will ship from China.

For maximum performance at high speeds, I wouldn't use anything less than a 24v power supply. The rule of thumb is up to 20x to 25x the rated voltage of the motor. Voltage ratings are mostly irrelevant anyway - current limits are what matter, The voltage applied to the motor varies enormously as motor speed - and reactance - changes. The goal is to achieve constant current. That is a primary purpose of the stepper drive.

May 23, 2016 - Modified May 23, 2016

Spauda01, thanks so much for all your work on this! I've got mine built - I'm having trouble with a heavy 300x300 bed(lulzbot aluminum plate, heatbed, and borosilicate glass) and bed movemen/vibration while printing, so I'm going to try mounting the lead screws front and back and seeing if that helps. I've also printed out the rework c-bot STL's for the z slide backet that extend farther on the rail. If this doesn't work, I'll try and kludge together the triple c-bot from what I've got so far.

I'm looking to switch over to the e3d titan carriage that ElmoC designed - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1535933. The endstop mount is not included and I'm trying to figure out how to use with the carriage back. I tried in sketchup to modify the d-bot carriage back, but all I managed to do was mangle the model. :) Is anyone willing to take a stab at adding the endstop mount to ElmoC's design?

Edit - I messaged ElmoC and it sounds like he is going to try and edit/create a backplate.

C-Bot E3D Titan Extruder Carriage
by ElmoC
May 24, 2016 - Modified May 25, 2016
Chairman_Miow - in reply to nickmig

Hey, I did this recently. I'm at work right now but ill post some files later (I'm not sure about copyright issues with the files I modified). I added holes for the endstop and its protrusions and modified the parts to work with the diicooler ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471 ) Finally I added the cable routing point at the top.

I cant guarantee that I have it perfect yet as its still the first iteration of my modifications and im still setting my printer up but so far it looks good

edit - hmmm according to the copyright on the Diicooler I cant share the modified fan shroud file. I can share the modified backplate and frontplate and it should be no trouble to add whatever fan adapter you like to it

DiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3

I WANT THIS PRINTER !!! THANKS FOR SO MUCH EFFORT TO MAKE IT AN EASY BUILD....ANYONE CONSIDERING A 1000MM LEAD SCREW FOR INCREASED BUILD H ??? OR WHAT WOULD ANYONE CALCULATE THE MAXIMUM BUILD H WITH THE CURRENT EXTRUSIONS??? THINKING OF USING 2040 FOR THE BOTTOM AS WELL TO CREATE ROOM FOR A BOTTOM PLATE AND SOME REMOVABLE DOWN WEIGHT??

Hello, first of all I am grateful for sharing. I have a question.
What are the dimensions of the sigma profide?
I must have missed it.
x, y, z sigma profile What measures?
thanks for the answer.

Hi bud,

I've sorted out the heatbed, it was a combination of the wire from the 5a to the 11a and the heatbed wires in D8 not being fixed properly (doh).

Is it possible that you could tell me the implications of using a psu rated at 12v, 12.5a, 150W. Will it work with this set up? (I.e did you fit a psu that is over spec? Or is the psu you have used what I actually need?)

Cheers

That power supply is too small and it will probably break. I only recommend using the parts in the bill of materials

Hi, how did you route the front stepper motor wires. I have OCD and hate wires :)

drilled holes in the extrusion and feed the wires down the middle. requires some pre-planning or lots of assembly/dismantling/assembly to marked it out and drill, feed cables and put it together etc.

Thanks. I though so much.

If you do that file down the holes so they are very smooth and put a couple layers of heatshrink around the wires where they pass through the hole in the metal. You don't want any shorted wires and with lots of vibrations extra care is needed

Thanks for the advice. I`ll use rubber grommets.

Having an issue with my heat bed.
The heatbed is wired up as per reprap and yourself suggests, however I get no output on the heatbed.
Any ideas?
(Also the D-Bot is amazing, thank you for designing this!)

Does the relay light up? Did you put a jumper wire between the two positive power inputs on the ramps board

Jumper is now on, ramps board lights up but still no output from bed

Does the relay light up

No, there's no light on the relay

I think that may be the issue, I assumed that was just a power input for the led controller

Does Z stay in sync? I like everything about the design, but thinking about a bigger build area (300x300, and maybe taller), and also using a belt and only one Z stepper. That would save cost of one stepper and ensure Z never goes out of sync. Thoughts?

KDan - in reply to Piglet

I don't particularly like the two motor setup either. I've started modeling parts for a single motor system to drive the dual lead-screws. Something like this - only with a much shorter and less unwieldy belt run.

http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/page-87#post-35616

In my design, there are two idlers built from the same flange bearings used elsewhere in the design. The idlers and motor are both mounted on the same central extrusion. It is arranged in a "T" configuration to maintain a 180 deg belt loop on all driving and driven pulleys. The center portion of the "T" is very short. This gives the shortest possible belt length requirement.

I've thought about doing that too.
The two Z stepper things is just a classic reprap setup. It stays pretty well synced but after several prints and moving up and down long distances a few missed steps can add up.

May 20, 2016 - Modified May 20, 2016
infmz - in reply to spauda01

Is it possible to plug another stepstick in extruder 2, and mirror controlling signal from Z axis stepper in marlin software? I think that would partially fix that problem.

There would still be slight differences in wiring and components etc. the only way to have them perfectly synced is mechanically connected

Yeah, I have an i3 and after 5 or so large prints I have to realign because of missed steps.

I saw another design that uses 3 lead screws and a belt on the bottom, but looks overly complicated, so I think I will stick with your design!

May 20, 2016 - Modified May 20, 2016
Masterjuggler - in reply to Piglet

I was actually thinking about trying out 90 degree gearboxes with linear rod, with each box mounted right where the two steppers are currently. I feel this would be easier than belts due to no need for a tension system.

I'm about 30 prints in on this printer and I am definitely noticing misalignment.. I've got my two z steppers wired in series.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:372530

Nema 17 right angle gearbox with spiral bevel gears
by dasaki

As a suggestion.....If you want to go down the mechanical path than use the setup from the triple C bot. Its what im going to do if the dual motor setup doesnt work out for my 300x300.

http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/triple-c-bot.1255/

The biggest issue with the triple C bot design here is the requirement for super expensive lead screws with the ends turned down. 60 bucks each is a little bit too much for that...

If there was a cheaper, belt-driven, single stepper design it would be perfect.

I'd design it myself but I dont have any ideas for how the lead screws can be held in place at the bottom without the expensive lead screws

Where are you paying $60 each for leadscrews? Ballscrews maybe, but not leadscrews. They are about $10-$12 each.

I've used these for an adjustable Z-bed in a laser cutter I designed and they work quite well. What I did in the laser cutter build was to turn them down to 5mm with a lathe on one end. I machined a small step on the end in order to incorporate a thrust bearing to properly handle the vertical loads. A conventional 5mm ID ball bearing was then fitted along with a conventional GT2 drive pulley.

I plan to replicate this general approach with my CoreXY build. I'm in the process of modelling new printed parts to accomplish this and I'm also waiting for some of the other mechanical parts. When tested and complete, I will publish it.

I decided to go the route suggested by uglybob, thanks for that. As for the 60 dollar turned leadscrews from the triple C bot BOM here: http://zentoolworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=16_15&products_id=125
Sorry they're $46.00 not $60.00, I must have been mistaken. I couldn't find turned down lead screws anywhere else.

Get an 8mm ID pulley (or drill out a 5mm one) for one side and an 8mm lock collar for the top. There are cheaper options, not all ways have to be done the same to get the same result. :)

i.e.:
http://openbuildspartstore.com/lock-collar/
http://openbuildspartstore.com/gt3-timing-pulley-40-tooth-high-torque-series/

You would need to add a few cm of rail to the sides or lose some z travel. Unless you either have the electronics mounted over the belts or mount the belt system over the electronics (both reducing z travel), you would need to mount the electronics on the back or side, out of the way. Of course, I'll need to do some rearranging if I go with the gearboxes, but I'd still be able to have everything bottom mounted and nice.

My 14 year old son & I have been looking for a good DIY 3d printer to build (we've discovered the limitations of our cheap delta printer) and this one looks like a great project to embark on.
I've managed to locate local suppliers for almost all parts in the BOM (I live in Australia) but I'm struggling to find the specified stepper motors (KL17H248-15-4A, 76 oz-in).
I'm just wondering if there are any Aussie builders out there that know of any local sources for these motors? Alternatively, are there other motors that I could use (such as these)?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5PCS-59Ncm-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-2A-4-wire-1m-Cable-for-DIY-3D-Printer-CNC-Robot/171828613083?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3Dd76c8e9c714d41e08a995c687d2bede1%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D19%26rkt%3D28%26sd%3D171993372625

Thanks in advance
Matt

Hey mtodman, i made a d bot in melbourne and I used those exact motors (from austeppers.online) in my build! so far theyre working well (build pictures still incoming)

Hey Chairman_Miow, what drivers are you using with those steppers? How hot do they get?

May 19, 2016 - Modified May 19, 2016
Chairman_Miow - in reply to Helix70

I'm using chinese knockoff drv8825 's I bought 5 from here:

(http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/351478190866?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

They get pretty warm when I print but dont burn my fingers, I adjusted the vref to 0.55v (from memory - could be wrong)

Oh, so you are limiting the current to 1.1A?

May 18, 2016 - Modified May 18, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to mtodman

That link looks good, any stepper which is nema17, 1.8degree, and at least 76oz-in should work.

May 17, 2016 - Modified May 17, 2016

Thanks for the outstanding build, guide, and comment support. I'm running into a bit of a problem and could use some insight:

When adjusting the H-bar ends, the wheels are very sensitive to the tight bolts. This isn't too much of an issue for the top rollers, but it does come into play on the bottom ones. If I tighten the lower bolts enough to remove all vertical play, the spacers bind up the wheels and prevent them from rolling freely. If I loosen to the point where the wheels roll freely, they aren't held against the rail snugly. Any pointers on this?

I'm to the point where I'm ready to break out the Dremel and grind down some of the spacers so that they don't touch the outer bearing race.

The spacers shouldnt touch the bearing outer race, are you using the spacers from the parts page?

Well, I figured it out. I ordered spacers and shims from OpenBuils, since I didn't feel like fussing with so many small parts on my current printer, and I think the C-Bot BOM used them instead of printed ones. Turns out those spacers require a shim between the spacer and bearing.

Lesson learned: If you're going to be lazy, do your research first.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Yep, I noticed so many people having that problem on Cbot builds with their stupid spacers and shims so I said screw it I'll just design and print shims the right size.

What lead screw would you recommend since the one in the BOM has been ended by the seller?

Hi, is there any reason I can't use 60mm steppers? I can't tell if the Z axis has the room or not.

I'm planning to go the other direction - especially for the X-Y motors. If you are after higher printing speed, you don't need holding torque, you need a motor with low inductance and low rotor inertia. A 34mm motor with an inductance value of around 2.5 mH would be able to run at high speeds and have the torque needed to do rapid acceleration/deceleration without skipping steps. Big motors may have large holding torque, but they are not agile. They also tend to have stronger resonances and more vibration in general.

Interesting. Thanks KDan, I did not know that. So would you still go for torque for the extruder?

To a certain extent, yes. But a fair amount of speed is needed with Bowden extruders also. This because of the large retract distances. You want to be able to retract and re-engage the filament as quickly as possible. Large retractions incur delays that can become very significant if your extruder cannot move rapidly. On parts that require a lot of retractions, the delays can really add up.

The idea of simply selecting larger steppers in order to gain torque at operational speeds is often wrong. Here is an article that explains some of the reasons. It's targeted at Delta printer builders, but the same principles apply to all 3D printers.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_stepper_for_a_delta

I've been through all of this with a Kossel I built. I initially used sub-optimal motors in the build. Upon identifying the proper motors and installing them, I was able to turn up the step rates MUCH higher with no skipping or missing steps.

I don't know, try it on the sketchup model

May 16, 2016 - Modified May 16, 2016

Great job on refining the C-Bot! The build guide is fantastic and will likely make this project more attractive to a lot of people.
Build in progress. Modifying the HBar ends and carriage to use a single 20mm V-slot extrusion instead of 20x40mm to reduce moving mass.

balu - in reply to KDan

By HBar you mean the X axis? The 20x40 is used for the belt run. That's more an aesthetic reason, but to me a free hanging belt doesn't look clean.

Also doesn't the higher profile give you more stability against the rotation of the carriage as a result of the belt pulling at two different points? Besides sag issues, but those can probably be ignored at these lengths.

KDan - in reply to balu

Not quite sure what you mean - the belt is free hanging regardless of which extrusion width is used. With the 20x40 you have a wider extrusion behind it, but with the 20x20 the belt still runs very close to the extrusion and isn't what I'd consider to be hanging out in the open.

As far as stability of the X-axis carriage is concerned, I think it's pretty much a non-issue on 3D printers where there are virtually no loads... Except on the Z-axis carriages, where I am absolutely retaining the 20x40 extrusions. (But, by placing the lead-screws centrally under the build platform, those Z-axis loads have been dramatically reduced)

If you want a specific example of an CoreXY printer that uses a single 20mm extrusion for the X-axis H-Bar, look at the Fusion3 printers.

I think sometimes we fail to keep in mind the whole motivation for adopting the CoreXY kinematics. The goal is to be able to print faster by being able to use higher accelerations. You have to reduce moving mass to accomplish that. What is the point in eliminating moving motor mass and then replacing it with a heavier than necessary moving structural mass?

All of the parts for the new H-Bar ends and Carriage have been modeled and test printed. I'm now just waiting on hardware to start putting it all together. I'm working on optimizing several other aspects of the machine to reduce mass and inertia as well. I want this machine to have the agility of my Delta printer, but without the calibration hassles.

Are you revising the belt position to be centered WRT the carriage to eliminate twisting?

Also, I'm interested in what you're planning.. I'm working on a similar effort, though my goals so far have focused on increased rigidity rather than reduced movement mass.

May 24, 2016 - Modified May 24, 2016
KDan - in reply to spiffcow

spiffcow - I'm not currently looking at revising the belt position. That would entail remodeling many of the C-bot/D-bot parts to keep the belts in the same parallel planes, and I'm more interested in getting the printer up and running first. I don't expect the current amount of belt offset to be a problem, but I could be wrong. That's why we have to test out new ideas, right?
I feel that the stiffness of the carriage could be increased if necessary with alternate materials and/or mechanical reinforcement.

I think the twist might be more noticable with a 2020 extrusion, but I'd love to hear how it goes!

I'm planning on keeping the 2040 and the same positioning, but using a tight tolerance low friction slider instead of v-wheels to prevent unwanted movement.

There is no twisting or unwanted movement in the print carriage on the Vrails

spauda01, How can you have no twisting force if the belts aren't in the same plane? Or are you saying it's accounted for in the design?

I can't speak to your carriage specifically.. My build is a C-Bot with a direct drive carriage and an uncommonly heavy motor, and I can see a very small bit of twist when changing directions at high speeds. Perhaps it's just due to the lack of precision in the belt tension (they feel the same.. but I don't have anything to actually measure the tension with). Maybe my v-wheels are too loose -- I haven't been able to completely remove play on the carriage without locking up the wheels.

I'm not trying to negatively criticize the design. It's the best printer I've owned by far. I'm not doing this because I'm dissatisfied with the design, I'm just using it as a learning experience.

May 24, 2016 - Modified May 24, 2016
KDan - in reply to spiffcow

I think your variation of the design could possibly be why you are seeing the slight twist. You say you are using an uncommonly heavy direct drive extruder motor - but the original design calls for a Bodwen with almost no mass on the carriage.
The main idea of CoreXY is to reduce moving mass, but it will inherently have very long belts with "unique" belt routing requirements. It really wasn't intended for heavy loads - it was designed for speed. I do believe that Carl's original idea of using wedges on the carriage plates to tension the carriage wheels is not as good as using eccentric bolts. I may actually go with eccentric bolts on mine.

Anyway, since you want to throw around heavy masses, why not go with a more conventional X-Y Cartesian design?

Also, if you are seeing twist with your loads, that means a part is flexing. It almost certainly has to be the carriage. A more rigid material or a beefed up mechanical design could fix the problem.

I've imagined the possibility of a direct drive extruder on a machine like this too. But I think I'd explore a lightweight pancake motor extruder design in an attempt to keep the mass down as much as possible..

The carriage can only move left and right, if the carriage is twisting then the wheels are too loose

balu - in reply to KDan

You are right, my comment with the "free hanging belt" was more of an aesthetic reason than anything else (besides not being sure if it'd compromise stability).

Does anyone know the weight difference between a V-Slot / wheels carriage and one with rods / linear bearings just for the X axis?

For rectangular builds I always wondered why people not use the shorter axis for the moving one to reduce weight.

Instead of just building my own, I keep thinking about changes and what difference they'd make... :-s

KDan - in reply to balu

I don't know about differences in weights between V-slot/wheels and smooth rods/bearings, but I can tell you the difference between using a 20x40 X-axis extrusion and a 20x20. I just weighed mine. The 20x20 is 222 grams - which is almost a half pound, That means the 20x40 should weight almost a full pound. I believe that a half pound reduction in moving mass is quite significant - especially when trying to achieve high accelerations.

Can you post your revised gantry parts as a remix? I've been wanting to use a smaller rail for the gantry and in the future reduce the wasted volume on the sides of the bed to make the gantry shorter

I don't like to release anything publicly until tested. I don't have a functioning machine yet. I'll send you a PM about this.
I had to make the carriage slightly wider in order to avoid interference between the belt clamp and the carriage roller bolts. This may reduce X axis travel very slightly (or maybe not).

Good idea, that was one of my plans for a dbot 2.0

Did you use V-slot profile. But I can't buy V-slot. then, Can I use T-slot (Basic) profile??

You have to use Vslot for the rails which have wheels moving back and forth on. Look at this build which uses Vslot and Tslot to possibly save money - http://www.thingiverse.com/make:203841

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Hey spauda01. I congratulated you for completing the Build Guide on OpenBuilds earlier. I had sent a message here a while back but seems like it didn't get posted.

Anyway, I was asking how much further would the Z Axis motors need to be if I were using a 300mm x 300mm (with mounting holes on 320mm x 320mm square) bed?

Also, I printed a few carriages and was trying them out, could you tell me exactly how tight should the wheels be? Like should the carriage move if I were to hold the extrusion vertically, given that the carriage is only the printed parts and wheels with no other weight attached to it?

Based on a quick center of mass calculation, 95 mm instead of 69mm should do it. Exactly balanced would be around 75 + 20 or so for wheel resistance and printed load. You can try this on your own by picking a reference point (back of the back aluminum rear beam for me and working out the sums of the mass of a group x distance to the reference in the y direction all divided by the summed mass. You can group items together and measure the distance from the center of the group. For instance, the four plastic pieces that hold the wheels and its' hardware was 269.52 grams. It is centered on the beam, giving a distance to the back edge of 10mm. Formula would look like ((m1d1)+(m2d2)+(m3d3)......)/(m1+m2+m3...)

That's some good mathing. The experimental approach also works well: assemble the Zplatform/bed and balance it like a seesaw on some thin ledge and move it back and forth until you find the sweet spot

The wheels should all be evenly tight, they should be tight against the rails but not so tight that they resist movement when the belts pull on the carriage.

I don't know where the motors need to be moved to for a 300x300 build, I've never tried it. That will have to be figured out for new builds

This comment has been deleted.
May 13, 2016 - Modified May 13, 2016

Did you use the M5 square nuts in the V-slot on a 45 degree angle or straight?

Thanks for updating the build document too!

They go in straight and they tilt a little bit when tightened

Do you mean it grips on one side of the V-slot, but the bolt forces it not to angle out of the slot?

I'm not sure what you mean. I should of said rotate, not tilt.

May 13, 2016 - Modified May 13, 2016
Helix70 - in reply to spauda01

Right, so the two opposite corners of the square grip the V-slot?

Thanks for that. I really appreciate you answering my questions.

I think my DIN562 nuts are at the lower end of the spec, most are about 7.8mm, and the slot is 6.25mm wide, so not much overlap. Yours look a little bigger, more like the 8mm. With a bolt inserted, i can almost get the nut out of the slot, if that makes sense.

I'm not a huge fan of the square nuts from mrmetric either, the corners that grip are only small and tend to squash the alu if done up tightly. I found these and they seem to work well, cheap and free shipping.

http://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M5-Hammer-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-p-1048442.html

You might be onto something there. Have you tried them yet?

I didnt replace any of the square nuts but for a drop in and as a square nut replacement, they work very well. I'll be using them to mount the electrics(ramps and SSR).

Thanks, I did order some, so I will have options. It is a frustrating wait now for all the parts to arrive! Got my E3D V6, V slot, nuts and bolts, steppers and electronics. Next week I get the printed parts. Waiting on the mini V-wheels, heat bed, bearings, extruder gear, belt, pulleys, glass, LEDs, power supply and now some T Nuts. I can cut my V Slot when I find a friend with a drop saw.

Can't wait to start building, this is the project I have been waiting for.

They are certainly not as tight as Tnuts would be but the good thing about the smaller dimensions is that they can usually be inserted into the side of the rail for adding components after the frame is already built which is helpful.

I can imagine, but with your fantastic build guide, probably not necessary! :)

Hi Spauda, I really like the build plan. I will be building one soon(with 300x300mm Print Area). The one thing I would like to suggest for the builders is try using Aluminium Corner Brackets as they reinforce the structure better and also withstand to vibration for a longer life and steady print.

http://autosystem.en.ecplaza.net/9.jpg

I just want to say, thank you for putting in the time and effort to complete and put this printer on Thingiverse! I will definently be building this in the near future.

What's the point of the SSR, to keep a minimum load on the RAMPS board for the heated bed?

The bed draws too much current for the ramps board to handle safely

May 12, 2016 - Modified May 12, 2016
dgcaste - in reply to spauda01

Ok. I noticed you have your 12V hooked up to both 12 and 24V pads on the heated bed. Is this more effective than just hooking up to 12V?

Edit: oh shoot, I'm re-reading the table and for 12V both are required to be hooked up to -.

Thats just how the bed is configured, check out the vendor page for the bed via the bill of materials

I noticed that in your build guide you include the glass bed with PCB heater assembly. You have said to either buy glass with notched corners or glass that fits inside of the PCB bed screws. What size is your glass plate then and/or why did you then use the binder clips? Thanks.

The glass is 12 3/8" x 8 7/16", the binder clips are required to hold the glass on the pcb

Thanks. I noticed in your pictures that the edges are rather curved? Can you explain how you did that?

Which edges?

The edges of your glass plate. They're curved to allow room for the screws?

I cut the glass corners with a tile cutting dremel. If you buy glass from a hardware store or glass store they might be able to notch the corners when they cut the class.

Nearly done building, I'll post a Make once I have it looking a bit better. So far, I have everything mounted and all axes have been tested and move as they should.

Is it at all possible to make an mk7 version of your extruder?

I see cfeniak has one, but it's mount doesn't play well with the D-Bot design.

It was not meant for the C-Bot (or D-Bot), but it's predecessor. To use a MK7 in a direct drive setup versus a geared setup you would need a huge nema 17 stepper as it has reduced mechanical advantage due to the diameter differences you mention. To use the MK7 with a standard sized stepper look for a greg's wade type extruder remix that can take a 5mm bolt instead of the old school 8mm setup.

May 12, 2016 - Modified May 12, 2016
Masterjuggler - in reply to cfeniak

I actually made a planetary gear box with a 3.8:1 ratio that mounts directly onto the stepper with a 5mm output. works pretty well. I know the mk8 is the "upgrade" to the mk7 due to the reduced diameter, but with the proper amount of torque, the smaller diameter is detrimental due to the reduced surface area contacting the filament, and makes filament grinding likely.

I could just modify someone else's extruder with the mounting holes for the tube holder, but I am not proficient enough with cad software yet to make the e3d bowden extras mounting hole.

yep, absolutely

Is it possible for someone to make an mk7 version of this extruder than can be mounted on the side of the extruded, and still accept the bowden extras that came with the V6?

Here are the original files (I thought this was linked as a remix here but it isn't). There is a 123D file there that you can modify the design to meet your needs. What you need to do is shift the motor alignment to the side the distance of the mk7/8 differential. Leave the filament guide pieces where they are. This one doesn't have the bowden mount sized, but is left to be drtilled out. I would measure the bowden extras and size it appropriately before printing. Give it a try and if you still need help let me know.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:456788/#files

Direct Drive Bowden Extruder; MK8 version
by cfeniak

It took some playing around with as I've never used 123d design before, but I think I've figured it out. Posted it as a remix to the d-bot and your mk8 extruder, and I'll get a pic or two up once I have it mounted.

Thanks for the help!

What is the difference between mk7 and mk8?

Mk8 filament drive gear has a 9mm OD, mk7 has 12mm OD. Basically, a tradeoff between torque and grip on the filament.

The mk8 has been working pretty well, I haven't looked into any other drive gears

I've found that mk7 gives a better grip on the filament due to the larger diameter and the greater amount of surface area on the filament. For torque, I made a planetary attachment for my stepper motor.

Is it possible to make an mk7 version of your extruder? you can see cfeniak's mk7 extruder here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:292437

The issue with this is the mount interferes with the gantry if I have it on the side of the printer, but doesn't look good if I mount it on the front, and I'd rather not have it on the back for accessibility reasons.

Direct Drive Bowden Extruder for 20 mm extrusion
by cfeniak

Would there be any negatives to cut the v-rails to the 300x300 size and only use the 200x300 bed? If I ever decide to update to a larger bed, I just would like to have that option.

You could if you wanted to, as long as you put the 300x200 bed toward the back and leave the extra room at the front you wouldnt need to change endstops or firmware dimensions. You would need longer belts. The only downside is the bed would be a little front heavy but you could move the Z motors forward a little bit to try and keep it balanced.

May 10, 2016 - Modified May 10, 2016
MoshiBin - in reply to h8tebringer

That's very close to what I'm doing now. I actually have a 300x200 heated bed, but 300x300 aluminium bed and 300x300 piece of buildtak. Not sure how to mount that 300x300 alu bed on the 300x200 heater but I'll figure something out. If you go with everything 300x200 but 300x300 frame you can just mount the bed with the 300mm edge facing you, and move the bed mounts closer. You'll probably also need to tweak the firmware.

Edit: Maybe also move endstops?

I tried to load my ramps board this past weekend but i cant find the marlin.ino file. Any suggestions? Thanks

Download D-Bot_Marlin.zip from the thing files page, unzip, open the D-Bot Marlin folder, then the Marlin folder, then open Marlin.ino

I dont know what im doing wrong ,but the Marlin.ino file is not to be found. I'm wondering if they have reconfigured the way marlin is layed out

Its just an Arduino file in the zipped folder

I have been planning on building a CBot for about 6 or 7 months now. I've had most of the Rails and parts for the build for quite a while.. had some problems with my printers and a heavy workload and finally I've gotten around to printing the parts. Kind of glad I waited because Carl reworked a lot of the parts to make them more robust and that is good because my build is going to be 12 by 12 by about 30 inches I think.I have settled on doing the dual offset screws on my Z axis.
On the CBot Extrusion calculator it mentions that I might have to lengthen the horizontal extrusions 20 to 40 millimeters if I'm going to use the offset so there stepper Motors will clear bed.
Do you have a more exact measurement of how much I need to extend the width of my cbot? Thanks for all the great work

My bed is 12" wide so you can look at the lengths I used for the Dbot frame

Do you run your parts fan and the extruder heatsink fan always on at 100%? Would it be better for the extruder heatsink fan to be powered directly from 12V instead?

The heatsink fan is on 100% already, it is connected to the 12v input. The parts cooling fan runs according to firmware, powered off of the D9 terminals

That's what I thought. The electrical diagram shows the heatsink fan and parts fan connected to D9.

Only the part fan is connected to D9- which is switched by the controller, D9+ is always on

The electrical diagram shows the extruder heatsink fan and parts fan red and black connected together, and both are connected to D9.

Look again

Oh, right you are. Switched negative. Sorry, should have had a closer look!

I have parts on order, looking forward to building this, it is a wonderful design. Thankyou so much for sharing.

Are you still working on the build guide? Any updates coming?

Build guide will be done this weekend, I hope

Right in time for my build this week supposing I get my SSR in.

:D

Thoughts about using a lightweight geared extruder (titan + pancake stepper) instead of bowden?

It's definitely worth a shot, I didn't want to do direct drive because of the motor that would be needed but I noticed in Tom Sanlanderer's Titan review he used a pancake stepper so it's definitely possible

I was actually trying to play around with this. I just bought a Titan for my current printer, but since I am building this bot I was trying to model a mount for a direct drive variant for this. The whole assembly is quite light with a small stepper motor it is doable, just haven't been able to design it in a way I know would work.

If you end up using the Titan let me know how it turns out. Ive just started ordering parts for my own build, and i was considering the titan as a way to convert this to direct drive instead of bowden.

How does your bowden tube stand up nice and upright? Mine limp and sags to the side...

heh...

Couple reasons I guess; the bowden tube comes coiled, depending on how the ends are rotated when installed it kind of wants to coil back up or stay in a nice arch. The black plastic tube is secured tightly so it keeps the bundle straightat each end. There might be just enough stiffness in the 9 wires bundled along with the bowden tube to keep it in a relatively straight arch

I want to build a printer for the first time and iam not decided yet which model to go for.The Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer or the D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer.
Are they creating the same resolution and print Quality ?
Your help is needed.

I want to make a larger frame and print area is there a calculator for this?

I just wanted to say a huge Thank You! What a great printer design. I really appreciate how much time and effort you've put into the parts, instructions, BOM, and helping people out. The BOM is oustanding - all of the prices and links must have taken a lot of time. I'm currently building one (using HIPS for the printed parts to save some weight) - may use one direct and one bowden into a cyclops head, but will proabably start with a E3D or Hexagon head and bowden first. I'll post a "Build" as it comes along.

Thanks for the thanks

Would PETG be ok for the printed parts instead of ABS?

I currently use a Wanhao Duplicator i3. I want to upgrade (build) to this.

I think PETG is the ideal material for making printer parts

Whats a general printing speed for this printer? My i3 prints pretty slow.

The Di3 prints slow-ish but is still good for the $$$. I have one and used it to print the D-Bot parts in PETG. I had to print at 20mm/s to stop the extruder from skipping. Still print PLA at 40-50mm/s.

60mm/s is a typical default speed, 100mm/s is possible if everything is well tuned and built

Look into using a 12x12 120 V AC heat mat, much lower current, no beast of a power supply needed

How would I go about powering an ac heat mat? Are you suggesting use two power supplies?

You would use a solid state relay to control the AC current.

You don't need a power supply for an ac heater, it is powered from the same input voltage that feeds into the 12v supply. I'll try to post a picture later

Apr 27, 2016 - Modified Apr 27, 2016

What modifications would need to be done for a 200x200 build plate? I have a 400W heater that I really don't want to give up. Would I be able to get away by simply shrinking the entire box in the x direction? Specifically shrink G,R,N,Q,L, and M. Am I missing anything?

I have an ATX PSU which I don't plan on mounting within the D-Bot itself.

You could build the frame as is and just use the smaller bed by sliding the bed arms in slightly, then you would just need to move the Xendstop bracket in and modify your firmware/slicer with the new bed dimensions.

The other option would be shrink all 7 rails in the X direction, G, R, N, Q, L, K, M by 100mm and use the extra railing length saved and make the build volume taller. You would need to reorganize the lengths in Fig. 1 to see how much you could increase the legs by if you reduce other lengths. If you choose that option you would need longer lead screw also.

What if the lead screw is only 300mm instead of 400mm? Would we apply the same principle by removing 100mm from A,B,C,D? Basically, making a mini-d-bot! :D

I don't see why not. There is actually a little bit of extra length in the current lead screws so if you went to 300mm lead screws you could potentially only have to shave off ~80mm (just a guess)

May 16, 2016 - Modified May 16, 2016
Truetek - in reply to spauda01

If there's a little extra, don't you mean we could take off more? like 120mm? Unless I'm totally misunderstanding...

Edit: Never mind, I just got it. :)

Maybe the 100mm would still be OK to remove, if we want to shrink the footprint even further. Guess I could start off with the 80mm reduction, then cut the remaining 20mm if it really bugs me. :)

I would go taller not shorter, if you are buying shorter lead screws it doesn't save that much money. Maybe I just like printing tall stuff

I'm just trying to reuse what I currently have into this design. Already got all the electronics, heated bed and stuff, but the sizes are all a bit off from the documentation. The bed is 200x200mm (arane already asked that), and lead screws 300mm. Wouldn't be expensive to buy 400mm instead of 300mm, but it is when you have to buy it again. ;)

Apr 27, 2016 - Modified Apr 27, 2016
arane - in reply to spauda01

Im tempted to go with option 3, shrink the bot, and keep the z axis the same. The area where I want this printer is a bit height constrained. I should be able to order less aluminum.

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Anyone have a link to a 300x300 heatbed that you've used for this build?

I went the PCB route and bought one from 3heatbeds on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251349600412

Did you mount the PCB direct to the rails, or did you mount a piece of aluminum on the rails, then mount the PCB on top?

I used the same mounts for the 300x200 build, cork on the bottom and a 12" mirror tile (with the corners dremeled off) binder clipped to the top.

I'm using a relay (not an SSR) and a 500W PC power supply to power it.

Controlling the bed with a mechanical relay might cause more clickity clack than an old timey telegraph machine

I had picked up an inexpensive 40A SSR and I got what I paid for: A not very functional SSR. :(
Since I already had several relay's in my garage so I just went with them. Maybe I'll try another SSR at some point.

Using bang-bang it's not too bad on the test prints that I've tried. The bed holds a temperature nicely and Repetier has some good settings you can tweak.

Did you heatsink your SSR or bolt it to an aluminum rail? They like to overheat sometimes. Bangbang mode will help there be less clicking

I did bolt it to the bottom rear rail.

Technically it was working, just getting extremely hot. When I measured, there was a 4V drop between the output terminals. That makes me think the SSR is not very efficient. :)

Do you have a link to the one you tried using? I'll try to help people avoid that type in the future if it's unreliable

Sure thing: The one that I purchased that I believe should be avoided is: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/solid-state-relay-SSR-40DD-40A-dc-3-32V-TO-dc-5-60V-SSR-40DD-H/1843309768.html

It was very cheap in both senses of the word. :)

May 6, 2016 - Modified May 6, 2016
nallar - in reply to remailednet

If you purchase another one, I recommend getting it from a reputable component supplier like farnell, mouser or digikey.

For example: G3NA-210B 5-24DC http://uk.farnell.com/omron-industrial-automation/g3na-210b-5-24dc/ssr-10a/dp/1181259/false

Unlike an ebay cheap from china purchase it won't be a fake, and will actually work at the rated current without catching fire.

edit: Please note the above component is for AC heated bed control. It will not work for a DC bed (uses zero current switching), and has too low a current rating for that anyway.

Good idea to use a reputable company but 10A is not quite big enough, the bed I am using is relatively lighter power and draws about 10A on ramp-up. It's best to have plenty of margin on the current rating for the SSR.

Oh, I got confused and thought they were discussing AC heated beds.

An isolated SSR is a waste of money for low-voltage heated bed control.

Get a buk952r8-60e logic level MOSFET, its on resistance is so low it won't even need a heatsink if the bed current is below 15A.

I agree but for this build the SSR is a little more 'idiot proof' with built in mounting holes and wiring screw terminals, hard to screw it up.

What power supply(s) are you using for this setup?

Just generic 12v power supply for the RAMPS and a 24v for the heatbed. Will use the SSR as well.

Can you provide a link to the 24v power supply that your using? Also, how did you attach the connector? Thanks.

24v - http://www.banggood.com/400W-Switching-Power-Supply-170-260V-To-24V-16_6A-For-LED-Strip-Light-p-998724.html

I havent purchased it yet, but have the 12v version. One thing I noticed with the 12v one is that the bolt pattern is different to the one spauda01 has posted mounts for.

12v - http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-12V-30A-360W-Switch-Power-Supply-Driver-for-LED-Strip-Light-Display-220V110V-p-39987.html

If connector you mean by the SSR? Then the heatbed out from the RAMPS goes to the control point on the SSR and the 24v goes to the other side of the SSR and to the heatbed itself. The wiring diagram is in the files to download and will give you an idea of how its done.

Banggood so far have been fine for the stuff I have bought and free shipping to boot. generally 3-4 week or I pay an extra $6-15, depending on the product, for 5 day shipping. Cant complain too much about that.

I don't know why but even I built this printer using 16 teeth pulleys, GT2 belts, 5mm x 8mm Flex Couplings and 8mm lead Screw as described in BOM, to print the test cube 20X20 mm with the exact size, I had to change values of X, X and Z in Configuration.h with the double values as listed below:

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {200,200,800,138.4336}

I'm still working to modify the extrusion stepper value because I did't used the MK8 drive pulley but another drive pulley a bit bigger that I had already.

Did you set three jumpers under each stepper driver to enable 1/16 microstepping

Apr 27, 2016 - Modified Apr 27, 2016
stevan - in reply to spauda01

I set three jumpers under each step driver but I'm using DRV8825 so I guess I enabled 1/32 microstepping. With 1/32 microstepping can I get a good print quality or is it better take off one jumper to enable 1/16 and set the values to the default axis stepper {100,100,400}? In my case using DRV8825 with 1.5A stepper motors what is the optimal VREF to set on each step driver, 0.8V is ok ? The Z stepper driver is loading 2 motors so its VREF must be higher or not? Thanks for your help.

I don't know, I have never used DRV8825s

Do you have a list how many of each bolt, washer, etc we need in total and what lengths?

Apr 26, 2016 - Modified Apr 26, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to JonnayLin

Bill of materials, page 2

What extruder are you using on this build?

A non-geared bowden extruder

Your own design, or something you can link to?

It is just what was included in cfeniak's C-bot, the printer this design was remixed from

Has anyone thought of creating an enclosure for the D-Bot? I am running my printers in enclosed spaces with bad ventilation and would like to open my printers capability to ABS, PETG and other materials that produce harmful particles while printing.

Not too hard to do... I was going to use corflute.. cheaper than perspex

Enclosure: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:67693

Filter: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:125264

Enclosure for 3D printer safety
A replicator 2/2X air scrubber that really works..
Apr 22, 2016 - Modified Apr 22, 2016

I'm going to use this bed because its a damn good deal and i'm ordering a bunch of stuff from them anyways.m http://e3d-online.com/BigBox-Heated-Bed

Do I need to change anything besides the hot end, putting the fans in series and modifying the ramps board?

For those that did the 12x12x12, is it just as stable as the 12x8x12 flavor? Anything you ran into build wise that might differ from the 12x8x12 build?

A few people, including myself, are going the 300x300 bed such as bhameline but as he said, changing the z rod position is needed but probably not by much. Im still waiting on parts to arrive.. have the alu cut, parts printed.

You can also go the Triple C-Bot if you want extra support on the bed. http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/triple-c-bot.1255/

I'm going the original path and planning the Triple C if I need to go that route.

I have not built my 12"x12"x12" yet, but the main thing you have to change is the location of the Z screws. They need to be close to the center of gravity, maybe slightly back, to provide the most stable z axis motion.

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Spauda help me! My friend bad cuting all extrusions( not 90 degrees ) Can you recalculating for me new lenghts of extrusions? Minimum 2mm shorter each one. Please.

I need some more information about the installation of the chipboard tablet under heat bed to avoid bending. How did you fixed the chipboard under the heat bed, used some glue or only place it below fixed with some clips?

JB weld epoxy

So you just epoxy the cork-board to the bottom of the PCB?

Would you think some looped Kapton tape would do the trick well enough? I guess I am just looking for a less permanent solution. I am constantly moding my RepRap build and don't want to be stuck with a PCB that has a sheet of cork board stuck to it.

No reason why not.. or maybe find a high temp silicon that would be easier to remove than JB Weld?

Quick google...

Loctite Superflex Red High Temp RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant
LOCTITE® SI 596™ Red High Temp RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant makes gaskets that resist temperatures to 600°F (315°C) intermittent. Resists aging, weather and thermal cycling without shrinking, cracking or hardening. Fills gaps to 0.25".

I'm sure there are other alternatives.

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Should be mm

Hi all, I just finished assembling the D-Bot and I'm testing the motions, all is working fine except the extruder motor that never has any motion in any way I connect the 4 pins (green-blue/black-red) of E0 on ramps 1.4 board. It seems that is a firmware setting issue related to E0 but I changed the stock configuration.h only for the settings related to the full graphics LCD. My stepper DRV8825 and all the hardware is working fine because as test I loaded the Marlin firmware for MPCNC that I used previously and in this case the extruder motor is working as expected but when I re-uploaded the Marlin firmware published on here for D-Bot following the pins connection scheme, the extruder motor (Model 42HD4027-01) connected to E0 stop working. Any help will really very appreciated, thanks in advance.

Apr 22, 2016 - Modified Apr 22, 2016
Vlerherg - in reply to stevan

Is the hot end heated to at least 170c? The firmware will prevent cold extrusion and disable the stepper below that temperature. Try sending M302 to allow cold extrusion and then try to move (without any filament loaded).

Good thinking, sometimes the simplest solutions are the best

Many thanks for your precious advise, frankly I checked the extrusion motor only with cold hot end because I did not know about the hot end temperature prevention but I was almost sure the firmware could disable the extrusion motor for a reason that till now was unknown to me, of course this is a very useful feature. I will follow your instruction as soon as possible but I think using M302 will solve my E0 issue and finally get the printer works as expected.

Temporarily plug the extruder motor into the X motor slot on the board, try some move commands, that will tell you if the motor is bad or not. Plug your X motor temporarily into the extruder slot on the board, try some extrude commands, that will tell you if you potentially have a bad extruder stepper driver.

Thanks for your help, I tried to follow your instruction and the extruder motor plugged on X is working fine but X motor plugged on E0 is not working and the DRV8820 remain cold. I also tried to swap the DRV8820 from E0 to X or Y and I seen that it's not damaged and working. At this point seems that Ramps 1.4 is damaged on the E0 driver, but I cannot understand why E0 is working if Ramps is running a different Marlin firmware? This means that ramps is not damaged or not?

If you ran the E0 motor from the X socket and if you put the E0 DRV8825 into the X socket and it worked then that points to the Ramps board being bad, see if you can return or exchange it for a different one.

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Just out of curiosity, what control board are you currently using? i know you mentioned the RAMPS 1.4. Just wondering if you have switched from there?

Ramps 1.4

Nearly complete! The printer is essentially done at this point, but I am having a bit of a hiccup. I am able to move X, Y & Z independently using the manual controls in Repetier Host perfectly. I can home X and Z without issue. When I try to home Y, everything seems to go perfectly until it hits the endstop. The Y axis hits and stops like it should, but then the X axis goes crazy for about 5 second, erratically moving back and forth in short stutters and then stops. The printer thinks X is still at 0. I can use the controls to move X away from the 'new' 0 point and back, but if I hit home again for the X axis, it does not move and resets its supposed position to a new 0 point. Very strange behavior. Anyone have any ideas? I have had motors with wiring shorts on other printers I have built and those displayed erratic behavior, but it was consistently erratic. This seems to work fine until homing Y and then X takes a dump.

The only glitch I have noticed is that if I successfully home Y, and then try to home X, the printhead will not move sideways but it says X=0. Start by double checking your wiring and make sure you made the necessary changes in marlin, rep, and slic3r for your -Y homing change

LOL. Turned out to be an oversight on my part. The wiring was still set for Y-Max homing instead of Y-Mn. Moved one wire and all is well. Thanks again for your excellent variant on a great design.

Forgot about that, good catch

So what changes in dimensioning for the aluminum extrusions do I need to make this a 12x12x12" print area? What about a 24x24x24" print area?

Looking to build the 1 cu.ft one for me, and the 2 cu.ft one for my girlfriend's dad.

Something as large as 24" is going to need to be supported on all for corners. You'll want to essentially mirror the back of the bed platform on the front and then center the z axis screws (you might want to beg some beefier screws depending on how heavy the bed ends up). While I think it should be ok, you'll also want to watch the weight of the x axis cross beam, if it gets to heavy, it will have too much momentum and will have to slow down the printer, mess with the accelerations or upgrade the motors to NEMA 23s for the torque. Just some thoughts to consider.

Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016
Jo0 - in reply to bhameline

I got a chance to check out the updated c-bot page. Will definitely be rethinking some things about the 24 cu.in design. Possibly have a 4 lead screw set up with a motor turning two screws? I also need to figure out something for getting my own 24x24 heated bed made.

For the 12x12, its at the end of the build guide. For a 24x24, good luck.

So I think I want to go with a Silicone heater mat such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011U7AYX4/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_g328_i4_sh#Ask

I should be able to have it controlled from the SSR and wire it up to the printer board without any issues right?

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to h8tebringer

Pretty much the same approach except you need an AC SSR, not a DC SSR.
http://www.amazon.com/Industrial-FOTEK-Protective-SSR-100DA-control/dp/B017W7N7F8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1461088088&sr=1-6&keywords=fotek+ac+ssr

I'm guessing you would glue the mat to an aluminum plate and sandwich that to glass.
You might need to double check that the thermistor that comes with it matches what is in the marlin config file.
I would also recommend getting an inline fuse for the AC heater too since it is 120vac rather than 12vdc just for extra protection.

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016
h8tebringer - in reply to spauda01

Well to take some of the confusion out of it (and since I do already have the DC SSR on hand) they do have a 12v DC model @ 300W
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300W-12V-20X30cm-Silicone-Heater-Pad-3D-Printer-HeatedBed-w-3M-PSA-Thermistor-/281889548671?hash=item41a1ed297f:g:fxMAAOSwhkRWdPS5
That way I don't have to get an AC SSR. The PSU is rated for 30a so the possible max draw of 25a from the heatbed should be ok.

This is the last piece of the D-bot puzzle for me, I have everything else done and then I can begin to build.

You already have a good 10-15a in draw from the rest of the printer. And the PSU in the BOM can actually only handle 27a.

25A is huge (relative to the rest of the printer) and trying to get 25A out of a 30A supply when you haven't accounted for motors, hot end, and the rest of the electronics will almost certainly overload it. With that kind of current you also have to oversize your wires and make sure every connection is completely solid.

If I were you I'd go with the AC mat, swap the DC SSR for an AC one, they are only $10 or so.

Spauda how is stability of Z axis on this construction. Bed not thicks up on rollers?

Sorry im use translator. I mean skew of z axis. Smooth movement.

The Z axis is smooth. The wheels must be lined up correctly, which can take a few adjustments.

Hi! I have a few questions.

What measurements do the .stl files use?

Do I need anything beyond a bigger bed and longer rails to go to 300mmx300mm?

The power supply should be plenty to accommodate the large bed as well.

A few people, including myself, are going the 300x300 bed. I havent built mine yet but just the longer rails and bed are required.

You can also go the Triple C-Bot if you want extra support on the bed. http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/triple-c-bot.1255/

I'm going the original path and planning the Triple C if I need to go that route.

Hey, got a quick question. I finally found the time between work, kids and school to finish up my wiring over the weekend. I do have one question that came up during my initial motion tests. The X axis homes properly to the left, Z to the top, but the Y axis wants to home to the rear of the printer. I am using your version of Marlin that I tweaked a bit to suit, but made no changes to anything related to the motion. How can I get it to home XY to the front left? Granted, this is my first CoreXY, but I am very used to having my machines home front/left and already have my endstops installed and cannot easily relocate the wiring. Any help is appreciated!

If you moved the Y endstop to the front already then you need to change define Y_HOME_DIR 1 as mentioned, you also need to change Home Y to min in Repetier Host settings under Printer Shape and in Slic3r settings under printer settings>bed shape change the origin to 0,0. There is no functional difference in printing if you home to left rear or left front.

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016
Masterjuggler - in reply to Vlerherg

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
define X_HOME_DIR -1
define Y_HOME_DIR 1
define Z_HOME_DIR -1

Taken directly from the marlin config from spauda01. If you want the y-axis to go to the front, simply change the direction variable.

Hello. Im completing parts for you printer. How many kilograms of filament needed for all parts with extra parts like cable chain etc?

What is the largest part/what size bed is required to print all of the parts? Sorry if this is covered someplace else, I haven't found it for this build.

May 3, 2016 - Modified May 3, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to barrj4

Largest part I believe are the rear corner brackets, a 10cm x 10cm bed would fit them

Thanks!

Apr 19, 2016 - Modified Apr 19, 2016
Chairman_Miow - in reply to Marcin1415

I used about 1.25 kg of abs to print everything out at 100% infill. I think that if I had no failures I could've done it in just under 1kg

I bought 1 spool of eSun PETG and was able to print about 90% of the printer with that. Then I needed to buy a second spool to finish the remaining 10%.

I think - if you had 100% success printing every item - you could probably finish it with a single spool. But, I had some print failures, so it took a little over one spool. I also printed everything at 100% infill...

I'm not sure, I printed out my parts over several weeks/months with different spools. Maybe someone who has recently printed all parts can weigh the total parts or report how many spools they used.

I ran my own calculations based on what parts need printed and the estimated length and weight they would take up. Accounting for support/infill, any rafts/brims/skirts, etc, plus Cura's ridiculously shitty margin of error, I calculated it would take JUST over 1 reel, but that was without the extras like cable chain and ramps box and stuff so figure 2 reels will more than get the job done, failures included.

The heat bed seems to be out of stock everywhere. Any alternatives?

Just about any 200x300mm or 8"x12" bed will work, possibly makerfarm

I found the mk2 available for $30. Besides the 24v option on the mk3, is there any difference?

I do not know, I think cfeniak has one

I think I'll go with the heated bed from e3d. A bit pricier, but it'll save me some trouble putting it together and prepping parts like the glass.

On a related topic, what is the purpose of the relay, as opposed to connecting the bed directly to the board?

The bed draws too much current and the connectors and copper traces on the ramps board cannot handle the high current. The relay controls current flow to the heated bed without risking damage to the ramps board or melting connectors.

Since I'm using the Duet 0.6, I brought the topic up in it's respective subforum on reprap forums. The duet should be able to handle the load without a problem, but I'm going to solder a 14awg wire between the power in V+ and bed heater V+ terminals to bypass the pcb trace. In case anyone's curious.

Also, regarding the mrmetric screws being out of stock, half the time the stainless screws are actually cheaper than the black screws, and may be in stock when the black screws are not. They also have the d-bot printer and the whole list of screws on their blog.

Please don't do that, a ssr is like ten bucks, not worth ruining your board over

Apr 18, 2016 - Modified Apr 18, 2016
Masterjuggler - in reply to spauda01

In no way does this ruin the board. All this does is add more metal to an existing connection so it doesn't overheat. If it turns out the wire isn't needed, it's easy to take back off.

Of course, I am not new to soldering, and am confident I can do this correctly. If anyone wants to do the same thing as me, better learn how to solder correctly first and know how circuit boards work so you don't screw up a perfectly good board. It's a big concern if someone's first time soldering is messing with an almost hundred dollar board, haha.

Reinforcing the traces isn't the issue, the switching transistor for the bed should not be trusted to handle 10A or more of current without overheating

Can anyone point me to a good guide for tuning retraction? When I print most things (see my build for examples), they come out great, but when printing something that involves a lot of retraction, the extruder jams and starts air printing. I've been doing a lot of googling and printing of calibration prints, but haven't had any luck so far. I'm using simplify3d and Cura. Thanks for any help.

If your extruder is jamming, it is either from retreating too far or too fast. Retract too far, and the molten plastic will solidify in the cold zone. Retract too fast and you can strip the material. For a bowend setup like this, a good starting point is 4.5mm. If you keep jamming, make is shorter, if you start oozing, make is larger. Also a 40mm retraction speed is pretty standard from my experience.

Hey Spauda01, I am having some trouble with crimping the wires. I am using the crimps you recommended and the fittings. Is the 22awg wire supposed to be solid or stranded. I have solid. wire. Whenever I make a crimp the wire either easily pulls out of the fitting or snaps off like it was crimped too hard. Do you have any resources you could recommend to learn how to crimp?

I used that box of assorted hook up wire for the items that did not have to move much, but for the others (bed, gantry, and hot end) I used silicone extra flexible many-stranded wire, which is much less likely to break with a lot of movement. I had to be able to crimp new connectors to use that wire. I did not have any luck with the tool listed in the BOM, and eventually bought a pair of Engineer PA-09's. They work great. There is a good video on youtube on using them. Most connectors require two crimps - one for the conductor and one for the insulation - the PA-09 does both easily.

I would definitely look into a stranded core wire. It makes a huge difference, or at least did for me.

This is kind of low tech but you could just buy a set of jumper wires with female terminals and just wire splice onto each jumper wire to avoid crimps altogether if you have solid wire http://www.amazon.com/40pcs-Female-2-54mm-Jumper-2x40pcs/dp/B017NDLWYY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1460653670&sr=8-2&keywords=jumper+wires+female

I don't think those crimps will work on solid wire

Really Good Job ! Thank you for sharing and detailed all the info.
Wich Printer Hotend you use ?
Think you a Zortrax M200 3D Printer Hotend V2 is compatible?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zortrax-M200-3D-Printer-Hotend-V2-NEW-Ready-to-Ship-/272201789510?hash=item3f607db046:g:jUUAAOSw~bFWL70M

That's more expensive than the E3Dv6, check the bill of materials

Is there a place where I can buy the 3d printed parts? I don't at this stage have access to a 3d printer.

I could make this happen as well.

3dhubs.com will usually have at least one guy willing to do it at a reasonable price

Thanks I will check it out.

V Slot Ordered, Bearings and Hardware Ordered, Electronics and custom AC heating pad on the way and parts for 2 of these 3/4 of the way printed on my prusa i3. Been printing most of them with a .8 volcano nozzle in PETG with .36 layer height and the print speed and quality is great so far. Will start a build log once we have all the pieces :D

Great design, thanks for posting!

Hi Rich, just wondering if you have any pics of the parts printed with the 0.8 nozzle?

Thanks

Nic

How long did it take you to print all the parrs?

How long did it take you to print all the parrs?

A few weeks printing parts occasionally

Just started printing this in PETG Green to go along with you pictured style, I think Hatchbox PETG is not very good, been a nightmare! I will have a D-Bot Printer in PETG!

I'm building the 12"x12" variant and having a couple issues with the platform where I could use some guidance.

First off, when Z changes direction you can visibly see the leading edge of the rails on the platform move up or down before the rest of the platform moves. I've tried moving the pivot point forward (from the 69mm mark) but that did not seem to help. I've also tightened down the v-wheels on the back as much as possible. I'm assuming that isn't desirable and goes against the reason for a cantilevered bed.

Second, the leading edge of my platform is higher than the rear. I'm assuming that it should be the other way and the leading edge should be lower. I'm not sure if that is causing the first issue or not.

If the front is moving before the back, then it is likely that you have too much drag in the wheels. If the wheels are hard to move, the front will lift up and then the back would get dragged along.

That indeed looks to be the issue. Any pointers on getting it just right?

You are ahead of me as I am just now putting the whole frame together. I did notice though that the printed spacers tend to create significant drag if I tighten the bolts completely. What I have done is back off of the axle bolts just until the wheels turn freely, but not enough to allow for side to side play.

That's what I ended up doing to allow the wheels to spin 'better'.

I'm finding that you also need to have just the right amount of of pressure between the front and back sets of wheels otherwise the problem comes back, although less pronounced.

I'm not sure where the center of gravity would be for the 12x12 z platform. It might take some trial and error to find the right spot to center the lead screws at. Along with that, the tightness of the wheels on the rail will have to be adjusted, sounds like they are too tight. If you cant get it working you may have to take off the whole z platform and experimentally find the center of gravity by balancing it on a ledge which is what I did originally.

I'll take the platform off and check for it's center. Is the goal to have the lead screws directly on the pivot point?

Also, what about the front and rear of the platform, should they be the same height or should one be lower then the other?

It should be pretty close to the center of gravity/ pivot. The front and rear should be at the same height, if they are slightly off the bed can still be leveled with he four corner screws

So I noticed you changed the end stop locations, does that mean all the changes are in the firmware that you have ready to download?

The endstops haven't changed

Apr 8, 2016 - Modified Apr 8, 2016

Hello, How do you tighten hbar, so it wouldnt jump over the slot when I try to skew hbar? When I overtighten 4 nuts holding a side of hbar, whells stop turning.
I tried installing springs between top and bottom screws but that doesn`t seem to help.

When you install and tighten the belts it will hold the H bar square and it will not skew

Ah I see, thanks.

I have a lot of play in the z axis. I think the rollers could be seated in the v-slot better - all wheels should touch the extrusion at all times, right? What's the best way to do that? Just loosen everything up and try and seat them, or are there certain bolts that really control that?

I plan to add an induction sensor as soon as it arrives next week, but for now, I haven't been able to try out the printer, as the z zero is different each time I home the machine.

Any tips are appreciated.

It seems that I'm in a similar boat. I can get them with too tight or one wheel that won't touch.

Maybe the build guide will get updated with some tips! :)

We took the troubleshooting of my issues offline. Spauda01 had some good tips and said I could go ahead and share them here so everyone can benefit. Keep in mind that he might make a reference or two to some pics and video I sent of my setup, but the tips apply to everyone. I'm still working on getting the play out of my z axis, but it is much better than it was. I've gotten some really nice prints already and I'll post some pics in a day or two. Without further ado,

From spauda01:

The main technique for lining up the z wheels assuming your printed spacers are correctly sized is to loosen the 6 M5 bolts which hold the Zguide piece to the Vslot. line up the wheels so they are centered on the vertical channels then lightly tighten the 6 bolts on each side. you might need to alternate bolts as you tighten to keep everything evenly tight. once the wheels are aligned in the vertical grooves then loosen the two red circled bolts and adjust tension of each pair of wheels against the rail by tightening or loosening the blue circled bolts, they will determine how tight the wheels grip the vertical rails. adjust each side until each wheel evenly grabs the rail, they should be snug but still movable by finger, kinda hard to quantify something like that in text. once the wheels are properly adjusted then you can secure down the Z wheel guides with the red bolts. hope that all makes some kind of sense

When the bed moves down far enough such as past 150 or 200mm and back up, the bed can usually get out of level. this is because the two z motors are not exactly identical due to winding impedance and inductance differences so moving down and back up takes hundreds or even thousands of motor steps and if one or two get skipped then the bed can become out of level.
I just accept it as part of the parallel Z motor setup and assume it will happen. I can usually print several things in a row without adjusting the bed if the movement is less than about 100mm.
Manually leveling the bed really isnt too hard once you get the wheel situation straightened out. You really dont have to get the paper leveling perfect because your first layer will compensate for any imperfections as long as your get the manual leveling decently close. you dont have to worry about getting the paper card leveling within microns.

I'm not really a fan of z probes and autobed leveling setups because its not really really fixing the problem of the crooked bed it is just compensating for the misalignment by making a bunch of extra motion calculations and of z moves. they might be more helpful on prusa style bed movements but on a corexy the print head is rock solid in the z direction so as long as the bed is decently level the only z moves the printer needs to make is once per layer. just my opinion.

The Motor Mount Z looks like it should have holes on the part that connects to the vslot extrusion but it's filled, is that intentional?

Yes, it has a single layer of plastic between the two countersunk cylinders due to the orientation the part prints at. If you try to print a small cylinder above a large cylinder the border for the small circle will print with no support and likely fall down and make a mess. You can notice similar features on the rear idlers, extruder bracket, and Z endstop bracket

Oh. That's very smart, I haven't thought about that. Thanks, TIL :)

We have cfeniak to thank for that helpful feature

Apr 7, 2016 - Modified Apr 7, 2016

I've ordered most of my parts (v slot is hard to get in Australia - everyone is out of stock) and am currently printing out the plastic parts.

I have a question about the diagram in the manual showing extrusion lengths for the 300mmx300mm bed. For my bed I decided to get a piece of 3mm aluminium cut into a 314mmx314mm square and then underneath that I have a 300mmx300mm square 240v silicone heater. Above the aluminium plate I have a 300mmx300mm piece of square borosillicate glass and on top of that I have a piece of PEI glued to the glass.

I was wondering if I'll need to make any modifications to the extrusion lengths for this or if you think there should be no difference. I think it should be fine because I'll drill the bed attachment holes myself, but the holes will need to be larger than 300mm apart so that my glass isn't elevated by the screws and sits flat on the aluminium plate.

Anyway thanks for the great design spauda01

I may have helped deplete their stock a little... sorry! I have black and silver v-slot though... so some bits are going to look out of place. =\

Where did you get the bed, glass and heater from?

Apr 8, 2016 - Modified Apr 8, 2016
Chairman_Miow - in reply to uglybob

The glass and heater I got online from robotdigg, the aluminium I got cut from 3mm aluminium plate at a local (melbourne) aluminium supplier called aluminiumtc

I bought my black vslot today from alexpress, it didnt end up that much more expensive than makerstore but I cant be certain of the quality until I get it

Thanks buddy.

I just found this too... https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/lulzbot-taz-heat-bed-kit

24v heater, glass and PEI sheet all in one. They have the alu bed too... tempting.

The lengths should work for your bed setup. My heated bed is 313mm x 213mm with an actual print area of 200 x 300mm. The extended extrusion lengths just add 100mm to the rails in the Y direction for a larger bed.

Good idea going with the 240V heater mat. Be sure to get a solid state AC relay rather than DC

Thanks for the reminder about the relay, I made sure to purchase the correct type last week

Hello! Please, tell me, what is the precision of printing? How can is it calculated?Sorry for my English.

I have used this printer at 0.2mm and 0.1mm layer height

Just curious - I see you updated the wiring diagram yesterday and was wondering at the reason. Is there an advantage of the new version over the older? The only differences I can see are that you omitted the loop tying the grounds together on the RAMPS 12v input and moved the Z endstop connector two sets of pins to the right. Curious because I am just finishing my wire routing and will be hooking up the board soon. I followed your recommendation of tying some of the wires together to minimize the number of wires to be routed and want to be certain of the logic before hooking anything up. Thank you for the great build info!

The only actual wiring change I made was the wires connecting to the led controller had to be switched to match the remote's color buttons.

The black 12v input jumper was unneccesary because both ground inputs of that connector are already tied together on the circuit board.

The Z/Y endstop connector was moved over just to allow more room for connectors, the black and red endstop pins can be plugged in anywhere along that section as the pins are all tied horizontally, the top row corresponds to specific inputs.

Other than that I just cleaned up tiny details.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Your attention to detail is inspiring!

No problem, feel free to post your progress so others can follow along

Posted a quick make. I will update with more photo's once complete and polished.

Is this design scalable? i am interested in using a 16x12 HBP off a rigidbot

I think it scales vertically easier than horizontally. With a bigger bed, it will need to be properly supported to remain stable. A larger bed will consume more power, most of which will be wasted unless you are printing huge objects every time. If you scale vertically you just need longer lead screws and four longer legs. It also takes less room on the desk if it is taller rather than wider.

Apr 4, 2016 - Modified Apr 4, 2016
DarthOctane - in reply to n108bg

Given that the RB Big bed is 16 inches wide by 12 inches deep you should be able to scale it on the current plans. I was looking at doing the same thing. However I think I am just going to go with a 12x12 layout for simplicity. I have almost never used the full build plate on a rigidbot big. The regulars I have gone edge to edge on (10'x10")

I was looking around, and it looks like makerfarm makes a 12x12 HBP, and it runs at 24a, so maybe abs capable? so i might make one of these around that to replace my rigidbot. I have never gotten to edge on the rigidbot big, its always been a z-height constraint issue.

yeah I am going to do the 12x12 also. However I think I will use a sainsmart 2-1 board and run this at 24v. It is what I know from running 4 rigidbots and will also allow me to keep my parts drawer full of 24v parts instead of wondering which heaters I need for which printers. Hopefully this printer comes out like I plan and I can build a second one. Then both my rigidbot regulars will go on craigslist. I am keeping the bigs.

You probably could scale it up, you might look into this alternate version which uses three lead screw to support larger beds http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/triple-c-bot.1757/

How far are the socket heads standing off of the print carriage? I am designing a dual E3D mount plate and want to check clearances.

Check out the Cbot, it already has a mount for dual E3Ds http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:500041

C-Bot 3D Printer
by cfeniak

Got it! Thanks! I'm planning on rebuilding my DIY into this over the summer!

Do you know if the dual extruder carriage can reach the entire bed with both extruders on the D-Bot?

I don't know, you could ask cfeniak

I guess here is a simpler question to answer. What is the width of your print carriage and how far past the bed can you move the hot end nozzle? The C-Bot has a 80mm carriage width and the hot end nozzles are 30mm apart so if you can move your nozzle at least 15mm past the edge, then the dual C-Bot print carriage plate will work for the D-Bot. However, if your print carriage is narrower, then that will present a problem where the cross beam will need to be longer. I found that the C-Bot cross beam is 18mm longer than your D-Bot.

I would recommend looking at the Dbot sketchup model to check measurements and clearances for making any changes. You can also ask TechGirl_Mods, she is making a dual extrusion Dbot

How much would someone charge to print the larger pieces for me? I've been printing the smaller pieces but the larger ones don't fit in my M3D printer.

If you really need someone to print the parts, go to 3DHubs. They do local 3D printing commissions.

All of the parts for this fit in the M3D printer. Some of the larger ones just take a very long time to print. Use low resolution but the highest fill and it works well.

I have to modify a few to fit. But my M3D has some issues printing large prints, after a few inches in height it would go on an tangent and start smushing the prints, then goes on another area and starts printing for no reason. Tried to work with support but all they kept telling me was to calibrate. I even spent an entire day calibrating and it kept loosing it. Printed most of the small pieces with no issues. Ill try another large one this weekend

If it starts out good and then starts skipping later on, then your issue is in the movement of the printer. Many of the M3D printers, including mine, initially had those issues. In my case I took the whole thing apart and cleaned and straightened parts. The two biggest issues seem to be if the carbon tubes are too long then it jams up sometimes. Or the belt on the side will sometimes catch on the x axis frame when it's moving. At one time the M3D forums had a lot of information on getting those printers working correctly.

Apr 3, 2016 - Modified Apr 3, 2016
arneltec - in reply to TMallory

Thank you, this explains a lot

Is there a good instruction out there to take it apart?

Apr 3, 2016 - Modified Apr 3, 2016
TMallory - in reply to arneltec

Here is a good starting point. If you need help message me.
https://printm3d.com/solutions/category.php?id=18

Apr 1, 2016 - Modified Apr 1, 2016

Anyone who has already setup their printer with the original Marlin files; in Configuration.h, change
define Z_MAX_POS to 325 and reupload.
Max height of 320 will cause problems when printing objects at max height.

Mar 31, 2016 - Modified Mar 31, 2016

I had trouble with the box for the power switch. It wasn't quite deep enough for me. I reverse engineered the one that was provided and made it a little longer. I also made the hole in the back a bit bigger. Here is a link to the model in Onshape. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/01c351fc0f1e7f6bf5cd0952 From there anyone can make a copy and modify it, or download the file as an STL to print.

Congratulations SPAUDA 01. I have a problem with my printer D-Bot. If I install the attached MARLIN, the printer makes some strange noise, the nozzle impinges on the workpiece being printed when it moves without printing. I've found that if low values DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE from (500, 500, 5, 40) to (125, 125, 5, 40), shocks nozzle disappear (and noise). Could you help me? Thank you.

What kind of motors do you have? Do you have a link to where you bought from?

The motors x, y, z: Nema 17 17HS3001-20B. The extruder motor is Nema 17 17HS5010-N24B.

Have you tuned the stepper driver current?

Your motors have less torque than what I used, you might need to set the motor current limit lower, maybe 0.4v but I'm not sure.

If lowering the Max Feedrate to 125,125 works for you then that is probably fine.

I don't know why the default feedrate is 500mm/s for x and y but it was the default in Marlin and it works on my printer.

The fastest I have printed successfully is 100mm/s, I've tried some printing at 150mm/s but it is unstable.

If you are not defining a max speed in your slicer program such as 60mm/s, it might default to the 500mm/s and become unstable.

Mar 29, 2016 - Modified Mar 29, 2016
s118 - in reply to spauda01

The current of motors is 0,43v.
This is the noise. When the extruder changed from hole to hole
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6uibmmv7bq5tkeg/RCCU5114.MOV?dl=0

It doesn't sound to me like the nozzle is hitting the print, it sounds more mechanical, maybe a loose belt. If you use repetier host you can select a dry run print and run it with no plastic extruded, see how it runs then.

Mar 30, 2016 - Modified Mar 30, 2016
s118 - in reply to spauda01

Hi. I printed without filament and the noise continues. The noise comes from the area of the extruder (extruder, carriage, ....). I think not is from the motors. The noise occurs when the extruder makes a move without printing, after slowing before reprinting. No loss of steps, the cuality printing is perfect. Motors and drivers are not hot. When noise occurs, the printer vibrates a lot.
It can be the tension of belts?. What is the correct belt tension?

If you get good print quality your belts are probably tight enough. You can maybe try turning down acceleration and jerk values in Marlin.

okay. I'll try. Thank you so much for everything.

Does anyone have intact images of the openbeam frame sizes? I had a full 3d image with all the measurements, but somehow I lost it and I am only able to find the version that is partially cropped, making it impossible to see what one of the measurements is supposed to be.

The image looked a lot like this except the top wasn't cropped out:

http://imgur.com/tPAs6GS

All dimensions needed are in the build guide pdf on the thing files page

I finished my build today and got my first few good prints out of it! Just wanted to say thanks to spauda01 and cfeniak for the work, and quick responses to questions!

I've put a few updated pictures on my make page.

Mar 27, 2016 - Modified Mar 27, 2016

Excellent design, it's the best Core-XY I've seen, that's why I'm building one. I planned to install a Saint Smart Full Graphics LCD that I have already and I'm looking to find (or design) a case for that to be installed on the front 2020 v-slot. I'm not sure if there is enough space inside the Ramps enclosure to install the small board that connect the LCD to the ramps, any advise? Is there someone else who thinks like me to install a smart LCD control panel on this printer to share the case design and the other solutions?

There are many different control board enclosure designs on thingiverse, probably hundreds. You do not have to use the same box as the one shown.

Wonderful job of putting together all of the information to make this build easier for us. It's the cleanest build I have seen.

I wanted to pass on something I noticed when buying parts to make mine. When I went to Filstruder to buy the E3D hot end, I noticed that E3D is now selling the 200 x 300 heated bed that they designed for their retail kit printer. It's a bit expensive overall, but sells as a kit with the glass, clamps, pre-mounted cork insulation and everything pre-soldiered to a quick release plug on the board. The only issue is that it's designed for 24V, so you need a 24V power supply.

I am actually updated my printer to their bed, will run test prints soon.

Any update on that? I ordered the E3d bed and 12v power supply, not realizing they were incompatible. Any recommendation on a different PSU to replace this one? What do I need to do differently to wire the 24v PSU?

You will still need the 12v supply to run everything else. You could maybe run this bed at 12v depending on what its parameters are but I don't see any specs listed on filastruder or e3d's site

Hello, I do not find the model Pneufit
Thank you for your help !

Awesome design! I've placed an order(s) for some of the parts I need and started printing out the platic parts.

Really looking forward to building this

I've been trying to narrow down my design for the "best" printer....and one that is as future-proof as possible. So far, this is one of the cleanest looking builds I have seen. I've been looking for a large build area, and a dual extruder so I can use soluble support material (right now these are the biggest problem I have with my current printer).

I know there are benefits to using a bowden extruder, but you're limited to the materials you can use with it. Any reason that I wouldn't be able to modify the carriage so it works with a direct drive dual extruder?

Glad you like it, thanks

Check out this build which was converted to direct drive http://www.akeric.com/blog/?page_id=3063
It's a C-bot which is a different version from this one but they are still in the same family tree.

I like bowden and it works well but I don't print with very exotic flexible filaments.

My opinion and what I have heard from others is that dual extrusion isn't really worth the hastle. It's one of those things that works in principle and sounds like a good idea but some people set it up and just don't end up using. Can you weigh in cfeniak if you're reading this?

I've heard even worse things about soluble support material. It doesn't so much dissolve as turn into a gluey mess in water. I think it works best on rediculously expensive industrial machines like a Stratasys.

Just my 2cents (or 4cents), you can always prove me wrong!

Mar 27, 2016 - Modified Mar 27, 2016
gogomaker - in reply to spauda01

hmm...your making my life so complicated. What filament do you guys use with the bowden? PLA & ABS??

I thought I knew what I wanted. I guess we all know these printers are never finished.

Hey @gogomaker
I'm in the same boat-- looking to build this printer as think it's an excellent design and ticks every single criteria box but one... direct drive extruder.
the only reason I'm looking for direct drive is I'm in the same boat and want to print soluble filament.

Did you have any further updates / progress here? Would love to hear your feedback

The C-bot has a direct drive option

I use PLA and PETG, ABS works with bowden too

Agreed. I setup the dual bowden XY carraige. Got it printing and tuned up. Never used it again. I would say if you really want to try soluble support material then go for it, otherwise I wouldn't bother just for dual color work.

AK_Eric was using a large volcano hotend, 0.7mm I think, and just couldn't get the stringing/nozzle drip to a satisfactory level with retraction and temperature setting refinements. A 12"x12" bed does lead to a long bowden tube. I designed a sinle direct drive filament feed option that adapts the static filament feed into a XY carriage. I thought about doing a dual direct drive feed, which would be easy enough, but decided that it would just make the XY carriage too heavy.

I did find that I could get my 0.4mm E3Dv6 to satisfactory levels of nozzle drip (and you can easily see spauda01 did in the Eiffel Tower print), though it is a bit more challenging with PETG filament.

Hi there,

Lovely printer! would you see any issues extending the depth of the printer? So it would accept a 300x300 bed. Would you suggest front runners to support the bed? thanks.

lcacmpbell89 is doing that, check out http://www.thingiverse.com/make:206864

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Hey spauda

I am trying to sort my wiring out at the moment but ran into a couple of issues, some are just due to being inexperienced with electronic boards and are probably straight forward / easy.

First one is just small but annoying, my Ramps / Arduino board won't fit in the enclosure (ended up getting it printed) because the power connection on the Arduino extends out too much and hits the wall. Tempted to just remove it so it will fit but don't want to take a solder iron to it to remove it and ruin the board, like I said small detail but annoying.

Second is the fan connection for cooling the case, the connection it would seemingly hook up to on Ramps is just two holes. I have a the snappable dupont connections that I can solder in but want to make sure I'm not missing anything there.

The bigger question I have is involving the connection changes that will come out of me now using two different power supplies. I bought a relay like this one: http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/heat-bed-relay.html the wiring on this seems straight forward. They even have the diagram there, but what I have now confused myself on is the role of the Solid State Relay. For the PSU powering the heat bed the only interaction it will have with
Ramps is the two wires coming from the relay to the D8 and the thermoresistor in the same spot. Which would eliminate the SSR, or I guess I could just substitute the SSR for the relay I purchased?

Hopefully that all made sense, been a long day!

In another comment (I think it was in the Ramps thing space) he says you need to remove the power connector from the Arduino board to get it to fit in the case. After doing that myself it fit pretty well.

I've recently started the wiring and saw the same thing with the ramps case fan, that there are no pins on the board.

Mar 25, 2016 - Modified Mar 25, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to nnnnnate

Yes, you need to remove the arduino power connector, it won't be used. You also need to add pins to the board for the fan header if you want to connect it that way, just steal some pins from another unused connector on the board as shown here: http://i.imgur.com/BsVwIoP.jpg

Thanks Nate and Spauda.

I went ahead and removed the power connection from Arduino, also added new pins to the connection. Hopefully didn't solder them on too terribly. Unfortunately the Ardunio board still doesn't line up with the support pins one actually broke, but I'll just move on from that and have to make one later.

Then when it comes to the relay portion I think I realized it as I typed it out in the last message. I am guessing I essentially just bought the Relay which acts in the exact same manor as the SSR. So I can either use the Relay that I linked or the one from the BOM hooked up to it's own power supply and they would do the same thing?

You might have to trim down some of the plastic pegs in the ramps box to get it to fit, i broke a peg too. each board is slightly different so it takes some tweaking to get right.

Love the new cover pic :)

I'm getting close to done, but I have a problem with the lead screws binding - at least I think that's what's happening. I can move the z down and back up from 100 or 150, but beyond 200, it just binds up. I've repositioned the z motors a couple of times, and sometimes I can go down to 250 and back two or three times, and on the third time it binds up again. Are there any tips on getting the lead screws lined up properly - or is there something else to check that might be causing this problem? Thanks!

Thanks for the help. I did two things - one or both seem to have fixed the problem. First, I followed spauda01's advice and lowered the bed all the way down and line the lead screws up there. Second, I doubled the vref adjustment for the z motors. Before assembly I had set all the stepper drivers to .5v, but it occurred to me that two z motors might need more current, so I adjust the z motor driver to 1v. The bed seems to be okay now.

Now my problem is the incredible amount of backlash on the z axis - the bed carrier flexes quite a bit, even though it was printed at 80%.

I'll double check but I think my Z stepper driver is set to .55v, increasing it might stress your driver.

Does your printer have an aluminum bed? You might need to shift your z motors forward to find the right center of gravity for your platform. The dimensions i gave for z motor placement assume the Z platform is just like mine

I was also having this same exact issue and it was due to the parts I printed being too flexible. I stupidly printed all the parts at 10% infill which is stupid, it's ok for some parts but for something like the Z motor brackets, the lead screw holder I reprinted them at 75% and it fixed my problem immediately.

I did exactly what Spauda said, I dropped the screws from the top, let them fall all the way down to the motor, I attached the alum coupler to the rod, and then to the motor and lowered the platform down manually all the way down, i applied a little machine oil to the lead screws to stop the squeaking and that helped. once at the lowest point, the rods will wiggle back and forth if they're centered correctly then you tighten the z motor mounts and them home the z-axis, it should raise up all the way with no issues.

You can manually move the Z platform down as far as it can go, loosen up the lead screw brackets and move them in the y direction until it looks like they are centered on the lead screw when the lead screw is plumb. You can do the same thing with the Z motors in the X direction but it sounds like you have tried that. With the bed at the lowest position, adjust the Z motors side to side when the lead screw is plumb and try to center the lead screw within the lead screw nut.

The lead screw nut shouldn't be too tight on the lead screw. Before assembling, you should be able to place the nut at the top of the leadscrew and it will rotate down the entire screw under it's own weight. If it does not, the tolerance between the nut and lead screw might be too close and you can try 3in1 or some machine oil on the leadscrews.

Also check and adjust the tightness of each of the Z wheels against the legs, each wheel should be equally snug against the rail and when you rotate each wheel with your fingers it should not spin freely and not be too tight against the rail. If the Z wheel tightness needs to be adjusted, tighten or loosen the Z Wheel Guide M5x10 bolts as needed.

Is there anyway you could snap a picture of the inside of your arduino box? I cannot get any arduino to fit in the pegs and it won't sit flat like its supposed too, and i took off the power connector. plus I'd like to see how neat your wires are.

The page for the ramps box has pictures of the inside

Hi Spauda01,

This may have been asked before but do the carriage wheels need any adjustment to make them run smooth without any play.
Sorry if you have to repeat yourself.
Great looking printer by the way and its the next one on my list after my current project is finished.
Steve....

The carriage wheels can be adjusted, the bottom mounting holes have a slightly sloped opening so when the lower wheel bolts are tightened the wheels get closer to the rail and opposite when loosened.

Thank you for explaining that.

Dave question regarding the Y and Z endstops, since they both share power and ground and have their own signal pin, when I do a M119 the Z Max endstop is triggered when Y is homed, and when the Z axis is triggered its Z Min. I don't have a Y endstop and everything is setup according to your wiring diagram and repetier host settings.

Why don't you have a y endstop?

I don't know thats why I am asking you. I followed your wiring diagram, checked, and double checked and everything is right. and when the Y end stop is triggered it says Z MIN TRIGGERED. I don't know why.

Your endstops are wired to the wrong pins. Are you using a ramps 1.4 board

Mar 22, 2016 - Modified Mar 22, 2016
sLpFhaWK - in reply to spauda01

Okay I know what I was doing wrong, you were right they were on the wrong pins, on your diagram it has the endstop pins but at the very top there is a row of 4 pins, when i counted down the pins i was off a row. that also fixed my y homing issue. I'm sorry I am an idiot. Now i'm just having an issue with the lead screws not wanting to line up.

Can anyone comment about comparable quality of the prints out of this printer? Say if we take some cheap Chinese Prusa i3 implementation, (like wanhao) - is it about the same quality or better?

Better and faster and bigger

How are folks squaring the frame? The guide says "Measure" the distance between a couple points. But that gap is like 400-500mm and my digital calipers are only like 150-200mm. And it seems like calipers that size would cost a fortune.

Would regular Squaring tool be adequate? Seems like 0.5mm is pretty precise...

Also seems like a tape measure might not be good enough either...

For anyone else reading along, just get one of these for rail cuts and frame measurements http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ELMR0ZQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I used a tape measure. The same cm,mm tape measure I used to measure the vslot rails to cut

So I measured the distance between parallel bars on the back, front, sides, and top... and ALL of them - where really close...

I don't have a metric tape measure, but they were all within the width of a line on the std tape measure - (which can't be more than half a mil... ) This kind of boggles my mind... I expected hours of frustrating squaring - but it seems like everything is already extremely square.

Does that seem unlikely? Or has anyone else also had a pretty square setup right out of the gate?

So your tape is in imperial measurements, just do the conversion. If its a standard tape the smallest lines represent 1/16 of an inch. (You can count the ticks if you aren't sure.)

Doing a few conversions this is what we get:

  • 1/16 inch = 0.0625 inches
  • 1/8 inch = 0.125 inches
  • 1mm = 0.0393 inches
  • 2mm = 0.0787 inches

So you said your measurements are within 1/16" so they are one to two millimeters off. When I measured my build I got very similar numbers. One section was off by 1/16" and the others were spot on, so what you are seeing is within reason as long as you were measuring in a consistent way. The individual numbers don't matter, what matters when you are squaring things up is that equal distances match equal distances.

Yeah - that's how we cut the extrusion. Just divided the length in mm by 25.4 and then converted the decimal figure to the closest fraction and then fudged it by whatever the margin was. Once we had a "key" cut we'd use it as the guide for cutting the other identical length pieces. It worked really well.

When I was squaring with the tape measure - they weren't off by 1/16th. They were different by maybe the width of the ink marker on the tape. For example, one measurement might be just to the left of the 1/4" line, and the other side was just to the right of it (or right on it). That's got to be more like 1/64th of an inch...

Thanks for all the replies - I think my frame is square enough!

If you made your cuts correctly and your printed parts are accurate it's reasonable that the frame would be square and parallel.

Hmmm... perhaps I'm over thinking the problem lol. I'll try with just tape measure... thanks

if you have to measure a 40-50cm distance but only have 20cm caliper, you can take a 20-30cm ruler and use it as a constant-sized spacer, something like this:

|====ruler====||--caliper--|

So I'm having an issue homing Y. I don't know where the Y screw goes to hit the switch, but even when I manually try to home it (and trigger the switch myself) it just goes to the back and grinds..

Did you use the Marlin firmware from the downloads page? Did you configure rep host per the build guide?

Mar 21, 2016 - Modified Mar 21, 2016
sLpFhaWK - in reply to spauda01

I did use your marlin firmware from the downloads page, and I was using simplify 3d. is S3D not compatible with the CoreXY?

And can you tell me where the screw is for the Y End stop please?

The screw for the Y endstop is attached to the bottom of the right Hbar end.

I don't know how to use s3d, you would have to change the required settings to match what would be in repetier host for bed size, homing direction and such.

Can you show me please. Where I think a screw will go it doesn't even come close to the switch being activated. and how do you wire up the relay? I thought I had a diagram but it's not turning on.

http://i.imgur.com/AKPrXHC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/grh7bFfg.jpg

Wire up all electrical components per the electrical diagram on the thing files page. If that doesn't work you probably have a bad relay.

Thanks what size screw is that?

M5 20
Look at the bill of materials page 2 for a list of all hardware with descriptions

Thanks I always forget there is a page 2 for the BOM.

Ok, so I've built my d-bot and started doing test prints finally (I'll post pictures on my make once I get the wiring a little cleaner), only issues I've had so far are that it seemingly underextrudes even though I've made sure my esters are right. Would it be possible that you could send me some of your slicer/eeprom settings spauda?

All repetier host/slic3r settings are shown in the build guide on the things page

Oh, I didn't realize that. Thanks!

Dave, I'm wiring up the printer and I just plugged in the micro switches, but the cables are no where long enough to run to the box, i'm guessing you extended yours? It's not an issue I just thought I would ask, and also can you make a quick how to for the bowden setup? thanks!

I can answer these. Yeah, you do have to make your own/extend the microswitch cables. And what do you need to know about doing the Bowden setup? One end of the Teflon tube goes into the hotend and gets pushed down as far as you can, and the other gets pushed into the little black coupler thing that came with the hotend which gets screwed into the extruder.

I figured out the Bowden but I don't have the black piece where the Bowden tube goes in next to the stepper motor. was that supposed to be included from filastuider with the Bowden extras?

I thought so. I emailed them last night asking about it so hopefully they get back to me tomorrow.

Are all of the cuts the same as on the C-Bot? I'm wondering if I can use the C-Bot cut calc and if not what cuts should be changed on this page.

I guess you could use that calculator

I'm happy to finally see a build guide that gets you through most of the frame assembly process, something I've struggled with just staring at pics of your machine, and nnnnates pictures hes posted, but for the most part I was able to decipher most of the process by trial and error. now with the guide i have proper measurements on where placement for the z motors, and the heated bed holders, and z rod mounts.

I'm starting to do the bowden now, and d'oh! WORK IN PROGRESS lol I have some issues i need to fix, so i can work on those tonight, and get my wiring done for some components as i wait for that section to be ready.

I will say even incomplete it's still one of the better guildes out there. Thanks Dave for your superior documentation.

Is there a reason the ground for one of the fans ran down to the ground on the end stop instead of them both going back to the fan feed? I am not sure on what you mean in the schematics. TY for clarification

The hot end fan needs 12v always on, it uses the 12v feed from D9 and returns to the board via the endstop ground. The hot end fan can't connect to the D9 ground because it is being switched on and off to control the part fan. It's just a way to reduce the amount of wires in the crowded bundle that feeds the print carriage.

So how fast can this really go? Some people seem to suggest up to 300mm/s which is literally 10 times faster than my current one. So are you saying a 10 hour print can finish in 1 hour on this one? That just seems massive.

300mm/s probably not. I havent really tried to crank up the speed to test it out, I prefer to just go normal pace or slow and get good quality. 100mm/s is possible I think. In the future I'll try to do some more scientific speed testing

I appreciate the feedback. 100 is still pretty nice. Any ideas on the release of the build guide? Hope that's going well.

Mar 15, 2016 - Modified Mar 16, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to GeekTripp

It will be done tomorrow

Oh fantastic man! I know you've been working hard on it. We do appreciate it.

(partial) build guide is posted, it's enough to get started with.

Great! Thank you

is there any better sources to putting the hardware together with the bearings etc? the assembly guide i have is terrible doesn't show many pictures.

(partial) build guide is posted, it's enough to get started with.

Thanks man, I've been keeping my eye out for it. I was surprised to see I wasn't too far off on some of my measurements by guessing there things go. Thanks again!

If you are referring to the one for the idlers. I'll try and get you a picture here in a bit but will try and verbally express it as best as I can.

Head of the bolt (M3x25) -> Plastic -> Flanged bearing (Flange lip towards the head of bolt) -> M3 washer -> Flanged bearing (Flange lip away from the head of bolt -> Plastic -> M3 nut (nyloc if it on the crossbar / regular if for corners)

I highly recommend assembling the two bearings and washer on a a bolt and using scotch tape to keep them together, trimming the scotch tape and then inserting it into the plastic and then inserting and tightening the bolt / nut.

Hopefully that was the part you were asking about, if you were wondering about the wheels I am sure I can get back to you later lol.

I've added pictures with text and arrows to try and clear up some confusion that I dealt with while building over the weekend on my made it page. Hope it can help someone while Spauda polishes his build guide.

Link here.

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

awesome. ive started assembly on mine but the cbot instructions arent really helpful. and didnt he say he got square nuts in the slots without having to slide them in/ i cant figure that out

I've been able to get them in without sliding, but it's usually by luck. You'll also notice that if you pre-load the nuts, they can fall right out. What I usually do is put the nut on the slot and then jiggle it around to try and get it to drop in. Still easier to load from the end.

getting them in is super easy now, but getting them out that is the difficult part lol sometimes they fall out easily, and others they are stubborn. I want them out if they don't belong there because i don't want them shaking making unwanted noise so i may cut them out with a dremel or something. we'll see =)

This comment has been deleted.

Put bolts/washers/sq nuts on the plastic parts first, then slide the whole assembly onto the rail from the open end. Don't try to put sq nuts into the vslot and then bolt onto them, they are too small and move around too much.

hey man, sometimes I can get the square nuts out, and sometimes I can't and its driving me banana's. I have 2 right now that are stuck and they will not come out and aside from cutting them out with the Dremel I was wondering if there was a special technique for getting them out. if you can make a short how to it would be appreciated. thanks!

Just leave it in, not going to hurt anything, maybe you will add on something later that can use it

Mar 15, 2016 - Modified Mar 15, 2016
karltinsly - in reply to spauda01

Here's what I did if the square nuts were not already on the bolt, or fell off:
1.Get a thin piece of plastic (I cut a 1/4 inch strip from an old gift card).

  1. Position the part you want to connect with the v-rail.
  2. Use the plastic strip to push the square nut into place under the part.
  3. Usually the bolt will not be long enough to reach the nut, so use a longer bolt and screw just a couple of threads into the nut.
  4. Fold the last 1/2 inch of the plastic strip over and crease it. This will make it doubly thick and also springy.
  5. Raise the nut by lifting up on the bolt and slide the doubled up strip underneath it.
  6. Unscrew the bolt - the plastic strip should hold the nut in place.
  7. Screw in the correct length bolt - done!

Okay, something is screwing up my numbering above. I tried to edit it, but can't fix it. You get the idea.

I've been able to get some of the square nuts in after the ends are covered but its for sure a hassle. Its much easier to do it like Spauda says.

Mar 14, 2016 - Modified Mar 14, 2016

So I found a much easier way to tap those holes, Tom Salamander as I like to call him has an AWESOME video out demonstrating his outlaw method, now instead of his 3 taps I used a 3/16th drill bit followed by the m5x.08 tap using a drill and ballistol and they came out amazing. seriously watch this video and you'll be glad you did. buy a single m5 or 2 taps and you'll be good to go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR85I2ILeGw for all your viewing pleasure.

Mar 14, 2016 - Modified Mar 14, 2016

EDIT: This was a stupid question....the flanged bearings have a smaller interior opening and are used for the print carriage and 3mm hardware. The non flanged bearings have a 5mm inner opening and are used for the H bar and the bed height bearings.
When are the flanged bearings used as opposed to the non flanged bearings?

Is this part orientation correct for the z-wheel guides? (From inside the frame to the outside)
5mm nut, printed z wheel guide, 8mm spacer, bearing, shim, bearing (all inside v wheel) 40mm bolt head going through all parts.

I'm having a hard time with the axles and the 1mm shims. They seem like they fit okay, but the bearings all bind up and the wheels just slide on the v-rail instead of roll. I looked at the c-bot and it called for precision 10x5x1mm shims from openbuilds. I measured the 5mm washers I have and they are exactly that size, so I gave them a try, but the bearings are still binding, and the washers look like they should really be 8mm to fit in the wheels properly. I guess what I need to do is calibrate until I can get exactly 8x5x1 for the shims, unless there is something I can buy that is exactly that size?

The shims are 1mm thick, 5mm inner diameter, 8mm outer diameter
The spacers are 7mm thick, 5mm inner diameter, 8mm outer diameter.
One shim is needed in between two bearings per wheel.
Two spacers are needed on each side of the wheels on the outside of the bearings.

If you current printer does not print parts accurately, you are going to have issues with lots of parts. Holes will be the wrong size, motors wont fit mounts, rails wont fit into printed parts.

Take some time and print some calibration cubes until you get your printer working properly. I'm using all printed shims and spacers and everything works smoothly.

What kind of tolerance do I need to achieve? All the other parts are fine, as are all the parts on the Mostly Printed CNC I built a couple months ago. 8x5x1 mm is a very small part. Also, calibrating so the outside dimensions of a cube are correct does nothing to address the size of holes in the print. Nonetheless, I can keep making adjustments until I get the part right.

It looks to me like the opening in the shim needs to be 5mm MINIMUM, and the outer edge 8mm MAXIMUM. What about the thickness? If I can't achieve 1mm exactly, which is better? 1.1 or .9?

1.1mm rather than 0.9mm if you can't get it exactly.
If you can't print the shims you can buy them here http://openbuildspartstore.com/mini-v-wheel-precision-shim/

Okay, I got it dialed in - wheels turning fine, now. Thanks for the help!

Nice design!
Did you use Sketchup to generate the STL files or just mock it up and have them in a different format? I was looking at making a few changes...

The files originally came from the C-bot, see 'remixed from' on the main page. I made various changes to parts and made new parts in sketchup, you just need the STL extension to import and export STLs and the Solid Inspector 2 extension is helpful to double check that parts are manifold.

I used sketchup (a little) many years ago so it's relearning at it's best. :)

I was importing the stl's that I wanted to modify so it's good reinforcement that I was on the right track.

I didn't know about the Solid Inspector 2 extension so: Thanks! for pointing me to that.

Thinking of re-printing some of the parts for this in PETG. Problem is, with my frankenstein'd Davinci, the bed isn't quite flat; slightly warped. So without a raft, the first layer doesn't quite stick right and dimensions aren't 100% spot on.
Anyone have experience with buildtak and petg? as long as that first layer gets stuck on good, it will follow the curve and not knock it free. After, i can belt-sand it down flat.

Can you put a piece of glass on your bed?

it's by default glass, but ever so slightly bowed unfortunately :/
Just started printing in Petg. After the very messy first layer, it's fine, it sort of 'self corrects' (by squishing the next few layers tighter and wider. This is where my dimensional problems occur.) The center is slightly higher than the rest of the bed.
If i could get better adhesion on the first go, i can sand it flat.

Have you had any experience with Buildtak and petg? or PEI in general with petg?
Tried hairspray, glue, the gamut from 100c to 50c bed temps. adhesion is just not there :/

BTW, just got my bed in the mail, once i get all the parts together, i'll try and film a video guide on assembly.

You could just get a cheap piece of glass from a local hardware store, that's what I did. It's just normal tempered glass and it is 99.9% flat. You definitely want a good bed to start with for printing the parts because dimension tolerance is important.

Got it, thanks. I've got a local glass supply store near by that i'll check into. Might use them for the 300x300 sheet i'll need too.

Mar 13, 2016 - Modified Mar 13, 2016

Hi Spauda01,

Clever design and I like the simplicity of it.

I have a couple of questions:

Did you had any problem with the mass of the aluminium H-bar? Would it be better for the H-bar to have linear bearings and rods (so it is lighter)? Maybe have a 20x20 for the H-Bar?

What printing speeds have you achieve without quality problems?

The printing table would it be better if it was also supported with rails on the front?

Also, wouldn't be better if the H-bar was on the sort length of the table? That will make the H-bar shorter therefore with less mass?

Thank you,

George

One of the goals of this design is to avoid using linear rods and bearings. The aluminum rail works well enough, print quality is not impacted. Future revisions of this design might use a smaller rail or a rail oriented along the shorter axis.
I haven't tried to print at fast speeds yet.
The print bed is very stable and it is lifted by the lead screws along the center of gravity.

I'm getting confused. I downloaded all the files on 2/25 and started printing. I'm almost done and ready to start building, but I was double-checking the files and see that all new files were apparently uploaded on 2/29? Some of them have different names as well. Oh well, I'll figure it out. Sure could use the build guide. I couldn't find an actual build guide for the c-bot either. I guess I'll do the best I can with the pictures and the BOM.

None of the parts changed, I just tried to simplify some of the names and I put the quantity for each part type in front of the file name. I'm working on the guide this weekend, in the meantime, the Cbot assembly guide is at the following link, click the files tab, then download assemblyguide.zip http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/c-bot.1146/

Hi, Spauda01, I found the 1-EndstopZ_Brackets.stl file has the same problem as LeftFrontMotorMount.stl that the first layer does not touch the bed that Karltinsly had mentioned about 1 week before, the most updated version has fixed the problem in LeftFrontMotorMount.stl, but Z_End_Stop_Parts.stl in the old version and 1-EndstopZ_Brackets.stl in the new version has the same problem, can you fix this problem?

Thanks.

Hi, Spauda01, I found the 1-EndstopZ_Brackets.stl file has the same problem as LeftFrontMotorMount.stl that the first layer does not touch the bed that Karltinsly had mentioned about 1 week before, the most updated version has fixed the problem in LeftFrontMotorMount.stl, but Z_End_Stop_Parts.stl in the old version and 1-EndstopZ_Brackets.stl in the new version has the same problem, can you fix this problem?

Thanks.

The parts have been updated

Thank you very much!

Okay, thanks! I took a look at the cbot assembly guide and I'm ready to get started.

I just printed the 1mm shims, and they're coming out .5 to .6 mm. How critical is this thickness? I can make adjustments and do some calibrations, just want to know how close I need to be. Same question for the 7mm spacers.

So excited to get started!

Mar 12, 2016 - Modified Mar 12, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to karltinsly

The spacers and shims are important tolerance wise, try to get your current printer calibrated or just scale up the spacers until they match the proper sizes

Thanks will do.

Are the large holes on the backs of the rear idler parts supposed to be open to the small hole on the front, to allow a bolt through to the tapped holes on the extrusion? The STLs seem to be closed at that spot.

Yes, the stl has a thin membrane between the two cylinders because in the orientation printed, the small cylinder sits on top of the larger cylinder. If they were connected, the smaller cylinder base perimeter would be printed in air unsupported so you can put a single layer of plastic between the two to give the small cylinder something to print its perimeter on. It can be easily cut away or drilled later. Hope that makes sense.

I printed the right idler in PETG / 60% infill. The area between the small and large holes turned out almost see-through, but as you say it's meant to be removed. Thanks for the great design - waiting for many orders to arrive but that gives me plenty of time for making the 3D printed parts.

Love the idea of a 300x300 bed. Been looking around finding a TON of 300x200 for various prices. Anyone have any leads on a good 300x300 bed? Best i've found was an ebay seller from china for $85 including glass. Kicker is-- $40 shipping :/

Here is another 12"x12" heat bed you might want to consider for $46.50 + shipping
http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/heat-beds/12-x-12-heat-bed.html

Thanks! may grab another as a backup. That ebay seller below is pretty great. I put the order in 8 hours ago and it already shipped

you are awesome! Thank you!
Thought about ordering a 300x300 silicone one from Walmart..
I almost went for it but then i had to think about supporting it. It's not a solid pcb piece and decided against it :/

Also, while im at it. Anyone given thoughts to using a dual Chimera extruder as the hot end? Would keep the weight down nicely.

I'm using a Chimera hotend on my make. It's still a work in progress but the carriage is fitted and is shown in one of the pictures.

To pick up on a comment in one of the designs, which one do you prefer now a few months on? The all in one carriage design, or the separate mount?

I decided to use an all-in-one design. I ended up using http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1141659 for my carriage. It is extremely configurable.

Hot End Mount Generator - Customizable for various carriages, hot ends and options.

Ah nice, had missed your photos sofar. Will take a look now.

Mar 11, 2016 - Modified Mar 11, 2016

Slight bug with 1-EndstopZ_Brackets file. The large portion of the bracket sits .5mm higher than the smaller part, which means it attempts to print in mid air. This is the version dated 02-29-16.

Thanks for noticing, I'll fix it tonight

I'm looking into making this my next printer build. I'm curious and cant really tell which part is used for mounting the electronics? I have a spare rambo laying around and was gonna use it instead of the RAMPS listed in the BoM, but want to see what kind of edits i need for adapting the mount

The control board is in the green box front bottom, its listed in the description. You can really use any board or mount though.

Given that the sliders and carriages are only on specific axes, i am considering using standard T-slot for the non-carriage rails (front 20x40s, lower 20x20s) Can anyone see an issue with this? T-slot is much easier to get over here in Australia, and also much cheaper due to higher distribution.

I'm actually working on a T-Slot variant for the non-carriage rails. My build will show the progress and have a link to all the files I customize.

Are you modifying the STL files that have V shaped bevels that mate into the Vslot rails

Yes. I started with the VT corner brackets and I now have the TT corner brackets printing. I'll probably have the plates and the rest cleaned up later this week or next.

The bigger pain will be the full size wheel mod if I don't spring for the mini wheels.

takai - in reply to takai

Ah missed the bevels on the parts. Will have to rethink that one then.

I've had the same idea, if I make a D-Bot 2.0, I'll probably use standard Tslot on the non-wheel rails.

You can do that but you would need to modify a lot of the printable parts because they have a beveled groove in the back of most parts that fits into the Vslot channel. Certainly do-able though.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't- in the end, like you said, the only ones with "active travel" are the back vertical posts, the X bar and the 2 upper Y bars. The back X 2040 and front X 2020, and the entire bottom of the bot, should be able to be done with regular old T-Slot. I'd probably do the bed supports in V-slot just to keep things "Samey" enough but in the end you could probably do T-slot there too. i'll let Spauda give his comments on this but I can't functionally see a reason that substitution wouldn't work in those places.

So sadly mistakes were made in the cutting process, I don't know how but it did.

My Dilemma right now is a pretty big one, all the 20x40's are all cut up. My 520mm are now 511mm, my 488 is now 482. So now the height doesn't matter as much, I can lose a few mm off the Z that doesn't bother me, but I'm worried about the width because of the heated bed.

If I make the 488mm piece 482mm, do I need to take 6mm from all the other pieces (463mm, and 448mm)? just to make them even? I don't think 6mm is going to harm the size of the print bed, but I need to make sure. I don't really want to spend another $85 on rails if I don't need too.

the problem we ran into was his laser, he was cutting on the wrong side which screwed up the cuts.

Mar 10, 2016 - Modified Mar 10, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to sLpFhaWK

You can cheat the 488 rail and have a 3mm gap on each end, it would probably be fine, or you can cut the rest of the rails by the same amount but the 2x1 plates would probably interfere with the Z mounts.

Why are you using a laser to cut aluminum? You would be better off with a hacksaw

Measure twice, cut once.

So after a day I cooled off, brought the box upstairs and measured what I have. I'm not too far off, the 520mm pieces are 517mm, and the 488mm piece is 484mm. Everything else will be cut to specifications, I should be ok with these #'s right?

we were using a Miter Saw with a Laser to show you where the blade cuts, I trusted him to make the cuts after verifying the measurement and it was off.

Trust me I know the measure twice cut once and I thought with a laser guided saw it would be simple, but alas it wasn't.

I was so fed up i tossed everything in the box and left it in the car, when I get home tonight I will remeasure and see what damage has been assessed and take it from there.

I'm so excited to finally start printing parts for this thing next week. Plus I may get to save a hundred bucks or so by cannibalizing one of my other printers, so I've got that going for me, which is nice. It's going to be a slow, arduous process because I travel for work so i really only have about 1 week a month on average home, but I want to get this thing up and running asap. I'll be sure to document the process and get it online when I'm done!

you should easily be able to print all the parts in a week. If your goto printer is solid and you can rely on it printing multiple pieces at once 40-50 hours depending on speed you'll be finished. I can't print overnight due to circumstances so I lost time there but if you do 3 batches a day, you'll be finished in 3 days. good luck!

Which part is the motor mount for the extruder. I've had a few people looking to use my extruder on this printer, but there is not yet a mount for it.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v1.1

The extruder motor just mounts to the part called 1-Extruder.stl in the files page. There are some pictures of the extruder in the images

any facebook groups for this printer?

We should start one! I already spend 19 hours a day on there, what's half an hour more!

Just get on reddit it has seemingly taken over there!

Considering building one of these at the 300mm square size. Just wanted to confirm a few things first though.

Firstly, the numbers before the part name in the filenames i presume are the number that are required?
Secondly, what sort of fill %ge are people printing all theirs up at?

Yes.
I printed my parts at 100%, I wanted the frame to be as strong as possible. If using PETG or ABS, you could probably get away with a lower percentage but keep the number of shells at least 4

Mar 9, 2016 - Modified Mar 9, 2016
takai - in reply to spauda01

Thanks. I think ill print the frame parts at 100%, but the moving carriage bits at 50% with 4 shells, all in ABS. My i3 runs 40% fill with 3 shells for most of the build.

So what do you think the logistics of using one of these would be http://rigidbot.com/product/heated-bed-big/ what sizes would we need to make the extrusions then? or could it even handle being enlarged that much?

It would probably work, you would have to figure out how much the frame would need to be resized by. You could make the changes in sketchup with the new bed

guess I am going to have to sit down and figure out how to use sketchup. I can follow directions and build things. I am just a moron when it comes to design :-) Only asking cause I have two of those beds sitting in a box. They had them on sale for 35 bucks and I picked a couple up.

It's up to you if you want to redesign the frame and spend more money to expand the rails and use the bigger bed which will consume more power. If you want to do lots of large scale printing then it might be beneficial, if not then maybe just re-sell them.

I suppose I could offer a bounty. I will supply one of those beds for someone to figure out the measurements :-)

Have a pile of parts building up at the moment! Got the extrusions cut last night, added 100 mm to six of them so I can have the 300x300 print envelope. Just waiting on my 3D printed parts to arrive from 3D Hubs so I can assemble frame.

I'm hesitant to start any wiring for the purpose of wanting to have the right lengths of wires from the get go.

I'm curious to the price for the printed parts from 3DHubs. What did you have them printed from?

I got red abs and it was under 140 shipped. Little more expensive then I had hoped but not unreasonable.

Does that include optional parts or just what was listed on the parts pa