D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

by spauda01, published

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer by spauda01 Sep 6, 2015
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Remix of the Core-XY C-Bot.

300mm x 200mm x 325mm print volume

$550 approximate cost

Read the build guide before ordering parts.

Larger cover photo: http://i.imgur.com/oFbBbEb.jpg

Example prints made with the D-Bot: http://www.thingiverse.com/spauda01/makes

Demo Videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtTX7qAE76Mwo2uvCK9YH6KMR-vQdPqly

All credit for the original C-Bot design goes to cfeniak.
Thanks to those who contributed at http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/c-bot.726/

Optional Components

Ramps 1.4 Enclosure - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1352320
Cable Chain - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1167746
Vslot Endcaps - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:398515
Tubing Clips - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213
Bowden retraction stabilizer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Extruder Manual Feed Knob (small) - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:474394
Vslot Channel Cover - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832077

D-Bot and C-Bot Differences

1) The lead screws and Z motors were moved forward to better lift the print bed from its center of gravity rather than use a fully cantilevered print bed.
2) Increased printable Z height to 330mm (~13")
3) Use of 20mm rails for the bottom sections to save cost and reduce bulk.
4) Various adjustments of printable parts, either to add plastic where it seemed like more rigidity was needed or to subtract plastic where it was not needed.
5) Accessories such as a simplified spool holder a cable chain for bed wiring
6) Relocated endstop mounting to maximize Y travel and utilize default homing scheme.
7) Overall reduction in cost compared to the original bill of materials (2$ square nuts vs 40$ Tnuts, etc.)

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1 day ago - Modified 20 hours ago

I am planing on making this, but had a few questions.

(1) What V-slot extrusion can be replaced with 20x40 extrusion, I have some extra 20x40 extrusion from other projects and wanted to use it, it looks like the V-slot extrusion with the label (O), (P), (Q), and (G) and also maybe (C) and (D) if you don't go to the larger 300x300mm heat bead can be substituted with 20x40 extrusion, is this correct, and what about the GT2 belt traveling inside of the V-slot extrusion called (G) will the GT2 belt still work correctly when the V-slot is replaced with 20x40 extrusion?

(2) How quickly is the 200x300mm heat bed heating up at 12v, also I am thinking about going to a 24v 300x300mm heat bed and looking for a cheap but good heat bed or heat bed kit, any recommendations that are in the USA?

(3) I am thinking about using a E3D Titan extruder with a E3D V6 hot end in a direct drive configuration, or should I use a Bowden extruder with the E3D V6 hot end, and what about using the E3D volcano parts to upgrade the E3D V6, I am looking for speed not fine details, I just want a working part fast, would the E3D volcano setup work well with this printer, the kind of stuff I print is more like project boxes, brackets, knobs and general use parts.

(4) Is there a noticeable improvement when anti-backlash nuts with this 3D printer?

I had some more questions but I cant think of them right now, thanks.

(Edited to correct mistakes)

Hello, I own an anet a8 and would like to build a printer from scratch. I saw your DIY printer and it had detailed instructions and actual links to the products, kudos to you for that. I was wondering before I order the components, what is the best and biggest heated bed for this set-up? In the instructions it mentions that you should consider an alternative if you plan to print in ABS. Also I would be interested to know if anyone tried to build an enclosure for the machine.

Hi, where are the instructions and the BOM ? Thank you !

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago

Thanks a lot for your work!
I want to build this printer, but i have this doubts:
1) Can i use this profile from Motedis vs v-slot?
2) Can i use the Ball Screw SFU1605 L400mm Ballscrew With SFU1605 Single Ballnut Tool for CNC vs 400mm T8 Lead Screw 8mm? For a better print?
Thanks a lot!

  1. No

  2. Probably unnecessary

that version of the Arduino IDE has been used to compile the firmware?

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago

I'm having a strange problem.

When I print an object it prints rotated 90 degrees and mirrored.
If you look at the picture here: http://i.imgur.com/2SFZG2S.png
The image on the left is how it's supposed to print, and the image on the right is what I get.
The dot is the home position relative to the print for both.

Iv'e tried reversing the x and/or y cables, inverting the directions, and even messed with the print shape layo8ut in Repetier-host.
Nothing helps.

What in the world am I doing wrong?

Here's my Configuration.h: http://textuploader.com/ddvyl

EDIT: I made a larger than standard printer and changed a few things. Like optical endstops, a direct drive extruder, and I have the Z axis cables plugged in oriented the same way as the X and Y.

I also own a Prusa i3 so these instructions make sense, but with the CoreXY I'm not understanding. If I flip the connector for one motor then it thinks home is the wrong direction. Do I just flip one motor and then change #define X(or Y)_HOME_DIR -1 to 1?

I also own a Prusa i3 so these instructions make sense, but with the CoreXY I'm not understanding. If I flip the connector for one motor then it thinks home is the wrong direction. Do I just flip one motor and then change #define X(or Y)_HOME_DIR -1 to 1?

Please can someone help. when i start a print everything starts off fine. Axis all home fine and extruder and bed heat up fine too. As soon as the print actually starts its as if the x and y motors somehow pull against each other causing the motor to miss steps with a horrible clicking sound. This causes my printer to position the print to the back left of my bed right near the homing position. also i cannot print faster than 50% or else the motors do the same. I am so lost right now. all mechanics are sound and move smoothly. Please help

jez81 - in reply to noelboy

Tried tuning stepper drivers?

noelboy - in reply to jez81

it was a damaged motor. thanx jez81

@spauda01 I think I've figured out most of my problems...unfortunately. I ordered Misumi extrusions, not realizing that they aren't the same as openbuilds? I'm really hoping there's some way to adapt this design to work with Misumi...any ideas?

I have begun to print this out and ordered my extrusion. Thank you for doing such a great job organizing this project. The files, bom, and instructions are all INCREDIBLY clear and concise. Big ups to you. Thanks a million!

Jan 13, 2017 - Modified Jan 13, 2017

please can someone help, im using repitier / slic3r, and my prints wont print in the center. instead they print in back left corner (home position). also my prints look terrible. it is as if my printer is binding causing all prints layers to be off.in other words slanted prints. i have setup everything as the build guide stated. i only changed step per unit as i am using 1.8 degree motors.and 3mm filament. this is driving me crazy and i dont know what to do. i have bed shape setup correctly in slic3r and RH. how can i fix this. i have tried centering object in RH but doesnt work. also with regard to the slanted prints. all pulleys are tightly mounted on to motors and belts are tensioned

I recently used some Thread Rolling screws. It basicly tapped aluminum bars for me
My project was building a chassis (am14u3)for Frc

It worked Really good. but it doesnt seam like something i would like to screw in and un screw it alot as it would ruin the threads. then you would need bigger size

And to cut the bars for the project(chassis) we used a sawzall, as long as you have the correct saw, messure good and outline where your cutting it should be fine. then dremel the rough spots

basicly what im saying is useing sawzall and auto tap screws would be a great idea

Anyone else print in PETG and have an X Carriage that's extremely difficult to move on the gantry? Was really hard to get on the rail at all, and think I may have nicked the wheels trying to do it, but now with it on, the carriage takes a lot of force to move.

I have mine all up and running except the heated bed. When i turn it on the SSR doesnt switch, it looks like the board isnt sending any voltage to it. Any idea where to look?

no led on the ssr turning on?
read the voltage at D8 + and - with a multimeter when you command the bed on
disconnect the ssr and hook up a 12v fan to D8 then tell the bed to turn on and see if the fan turns on

I figured it out. I didnt have the jumper from the 5A to 11A power on the board.

I need to re install marlin but when i click on the D-BOT Marlin link in the build guide i am taken to a page that says "end of the thingiverse"?
where can i find the file i need ? Thanks,

Its included with all the other thing files. It's called D-BOT_Marlin.zip. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065/#files

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Just finished building the z carriage, and the arms that hold the build plate aren't parallel, they're angled toward each other. Is this something I should be concerned about, or will the lead screws and build plate itself correct this?

I'm also thinking about mounting the aluminum plate I bought directly to the bed supports, without the springs, as I plan to use a proximity sensor for auto leveling. Any reason I shouldn't do this?

Loosen the bolts that hole the arms, line them up and retighten.

Don't bolt your bed right to the arms you would conduct heat right into the rails

Anyone have the measurements from pages 21 and 24 in the build guide for a 300x300 bed? The guide says the zmotors will need to be moved toward the center of gravity, but doesn't say roughly where that is.

Jan 10, 2017 - Modified Jan 10, 2017
spauda01 - in reply to csader

Thats because I've never made a 300x300 printer. If you haven't installed the bed yet, place the fully assembled Z platform on some kind of vertical ledge and balance it like a seesaw to manually find a spot pretty close to the center of mass.

Thanks @spauda01, I'll do that. Figured someone probably has so was more asking anyone, rather than you specifically. :)

Can you tell your measures? I have the same situation

Can you tell your measures? I have the same situation

So for end caps how many do we need

looks like 2 for bed
the 20x40 end cap slot
Please tell me fast, going to print and i want to print all endcaps in on go


I've got a problem making the SSR work properly.

When the printer reach the targeted temperature and the SSR led begin to blink the printer crash and reboot.
I'm using a standard 12v 500w computer power supply.

any ideas ??

your using computer to power the printer. or atx psu to power bed
1 Did you check wirings
2 might be the watts(if the atx psu is powring the whole printer)

all i can say as I don't have a atx on my printer im going to use the one he used

i'm using the computer supply for both.
1 yep wiring has been checked.
2 But this power supply is a 500w. It is more than enough isn't it ?

I am thinking about a kind of security. Is it possible that the psu make a security reboot when asked for a lot of juice and then nothing and then lot of jiuce...

Thanks for your help Mikelthebeast :)

Hey there, can anyone tell me the precise measures of the Mini V-Wheels? Its hard to order them in Germany. I'd like to do my own ones but I dont know the exact measures.

Would be great if anyone of u can measure it for me

Thanks :)

Hi, you can find wheel details on the openbuild website see link below:

Best Regards

Jan 9, 2017 - Modified Jan 9, 2017

Hey there, can anyone tell me the precise measures of the Mini V-Wheels? Its hard to order them in Germany. I'd like to do my own ones but I dont know the exact measures.

Would be great if anyone of u can measure it for me

Thanks :)

------- EDIT---

I found the measurings on their Website :D thanks anyway

This is me trying to move my X axis left then right. You can see it sometimes moved up and down the Y axis. I've been assembling and disassembling this over and over. I was able to get it printing just diagonally but then i disassembled it

Take the belt off one of the motors and use it to tune each stepper driver. Adjust the tiny pot on the stepper driver until the motor turns well and it's the most quiet. I do this by putting a tiny screwdriver in the pot, then telling whatever axis the stepper is plugged into to move a long ways and spin the pot until the motor juuuust stops moving, then reverse direction on the pot until it's moving again. Then set the tool down and tell the motor to move a long ways again and grab the pully on the motor and give it some resistance. It should not be super easy to stop the motor from spinning, within reason.
Then move the cable down to the next axis and repeat. Once all the drivers are tuned hook everything back up like normal.

If you notice the motor changing directions as you tune it keep fiddling. You might be too close to the max of the pot, or are turning it too fast which seems to sometimes make the motor reverse.
Put the belt back, and do another test.
Make sure all your motors have the same color wire at the top on the RAMPS board. If, say, you have the X and Y cables opposite each other it will kinda work but act strange. So for example I have the blue lead UP on every cable on the RAMS headers.

Hope this helps!

Hi Amadon. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage on the potentiometers like the instructional youtube video linked in the d-bot build guide. I believe mine are about 0.55 and I haven't had time yet at home to mess with it but I will try to use your method. I don't have a ceramic screwdriver, mine broke but in the past, I mainly used a regular screwdriver but very carefully to not touch anything else. I'll be looking for another ceramic screwdriver.

Started building today and it's going great. Need to wait for more parts to arrive but just finished putting in the lead screws.
Only issue I had so far was I bought the low profile m5 screws from open builds and the head on them was too big to fit in the countersunk holes. Easy enough fix (heated up the head of an m6 screw and pushed it in) but you could probably open those up slightly as I'm sure other people will buy those screws.
Ps. -
-The T nuts from banggood are are bargain and work awesome.
-Used a hacksaw with a 32t blade to cut the vslot. Used a mitre box to keep my cuts straight. Clean, straight, barely any burrs at all, no need for an extravagant saw.

About to make this and was curious about one thing, the lead screws are not secured at the top, which may induce wobble from my previous experience. Do you think it wold make sense to add another part (another 20x20 v-slot or just some rails with printed lead screw holders with bearings) for smooth and straight operation even at high speeds?

You never, I repeat NEVER want to constrain the top of leadscrews. Reason is if there is any bend in the screw the wobble from it will be greatest at the center. If you keep the top free the bed and motor shaft stay pretty much stationary and the wobble is sent to the freely spinning top of the leadscrew.
If you capture the top of the leadscrew you actually make wobble worse.

The bed is stable horizontally because the bed is guided by the wheels on the Z legs, the lead screws only control vertical direction. Just look at the example prints made and there are no major quality issues

About to make this and was curious about one thing, the lead screws are not secured at the top, which may induce wobble from my previous experience. Do you think it wold make sense to add another part (another 20x20 v-slot or just some rails with printed lead screw holders with bearings) for smooth and straight operation even at high speeds?

use zip tie to hold t he tube to the holder

Comments deleted.

What concerns are there with the quality of the rail cuts? Do they just need to be level/structurally sound enough to insert the m5 bolts, or am I missing something? I ask because I've got a hacksaw that seems to do the job. Just want to know if I'm missing any considerations before I actually start cutting parts I'll need.

Straight square clean cuts make the whole thing go together easier, if you cuts are crooked or off you could probably compensate by leaving gaps at the ends of some rails which is just a hastle. In the end just make sure the whole frame is square

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Also, the frame will have less wobble in it if you have flush mounted rails. Several Sites offer cutting V-Slot to length if you don't have the means to do it. I cut mine while home from school only to find that I cut one too short once I moved back. I ordered the piece exactly cut to 463mm from Misumi.com and it was only like $7

Jan 5, 2017 - Modified Jan 5, 2017

So past the few weeks, I can't smoothly get the extruder to smoothly on the X/Y rails. I'm still trying to understand how Core XYs work with both motors moving at the same time but I am still having issues with the movement. If I hit Left on the X axis, sometimes it moves Left, sometimes it moves Down on the Y axis. Same with the opposite direction, if I hit Right on the X, it moves Right or Up on the Y axis. I think it's because my dimensions are off a bit in each corner because of my bad cutting of the extrusions. Anyone have these issues before? I am also checking the spacing on the H-bars since my dimensions were slightly off. Will be looking at the guide a bit more in-depth today.

edit: just saw your response to a previous comment - http://corexy.com/theory.html
edit: after reading that website, I'm assuming at certain positions, I am getting physical resistance on one of the motors/pulleys so that only 1 motor is doing most of the pulling so it'll jerk to whichever axis has less resistance if I am understanding correctly. Will put up a video when I get home.

Make sure all of your stepper drivers are well tuned. I had the same problem and that was the cause.

check your Print head for clearance on the gantry... I had this same issue and it was because the belt mounting screws were pushing the nuts through the back of the abs and pinching the gantry.

check your Print head for clearance on the gantry... I had this same issue and it was because the belt mounting screws were pushing the nuts through the back of the abs and pinching the gantry.

Although I did have that issue momentarily and it even left scratch marks on the aluminum, the spacers solved that issue. I had tested with and without the spacers. I figured, since my aluminum extrusions were not cut well since I sawed them kind of at an angle, they are off a few millimeters and taking off some spacers would give the wheel some space to move around. I have moved everything around so things are a bit more even which is progress since the extruder can move around, just not always in the direction I tell it to

Jan 4, 2017 - Modified Jan 4, 2017


Openbuilds seems to be sold out of most v-slot rails...where are folks getting theirs?

got mine off ebay

Comments deleted.

would a pre tapped version of the v-slot rail work?

Rails are pre tapped on each side (it was ok for me). If you buy a particular size, then can tappe them for you ...

hi what are these parts best made from pla?

great work

Best Made from PETG or ABS (if you can avoid it from warping). PLA will eventually crack due to stress, but I hear raptor PLA is a lot more resilient.

Comments deleted.

hi what are these parts best made from pla?

great work

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?


(Great build by the way)

The Sainsmart 2 in 1 should be the same as ramps-arduino. But I could be wrong.

You might need to set your motherboard type in the firmware

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?


(Great build by the way)

I'm trying to get my firmware all set up. I have the sainsmart 2-in1 board. I know the latest release of marlin has support for this board, but I don't know what I need to change on there to make it work with my d-bot.

Long story short: What did you change in the base marlin firmware that you uploaded?


(Great build by the way)

Anybody wire the heat bed directly into D8 on ramps and then connect to a computer PSU (versus using solid state relay, 12V power supply, line voltage power jack)? I have a few extra 750W+ PSUs and was hoping to do this setup.

The limitation is not hte power supply, its is the transistor on the ramps board, that is why a ssr is used. you can still use an atx psu

thanks for the response spauda. just to clarify, if an atx psu is used you recommend still using the SSR?

It takes decades to heat up the bed without the SSR. Just IMHO.

Amazing effort spauda01. Some of the best instructions I've ever seen, the build list, the pics, everything is in such great detail and so clear. Better than an expensive commercial kit. Can't wait for my parts to arrive!

First I want to say thank you for being so thourogh with your build instructions. I built my printer using your design only changing a few things mainly size (300x300). After getting everything put together I have found a bit of a problem. My print bed teeter tooters when the Z motors move the bed up and down (which makes it impossible to level). I have tried adjusting the Z motors forward and back to prevent this from happening, with not luck. I am beginning to think the 4 wheeled Z guides are the issue because they don't all sit snuggly on the V slot. Is there anything you can tell me that may help. Thank You

You may want to transition to a 3 leadscrew setup instead. Much more stable. If you look through the remixes you'll see the Jbot uses something to that effect.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

Thank you I actually already did that and it seems to be working.

I must be not understanding something with how the X and Y axis work. So do the two motors in the front work together to move the axis? Because when one moves so does the other. They basically counteract each other, or work together. I don't know. I guess I'm not understanding the belt routing and how the X and Y motors work.
Anybody have some insight to make this click in my head?

Dec 30, 2016 - Modified Dec 30, 2016
Amadon - in reply to spauda01

Ahh! Thanks! So in Marlin there must be an option to enable this I take it? I used the included firmware with a few tweaks. Like I used optical endstops instead. And made it bigger.

I must be not understanding something with how the X and Y axis work. So do the two motors in the front work together to move the axis? Because when one moves so does the other. They basically counteract each other, or work together. I don't know. I guess I'm not understanding the belt routing and how the X and Y motors work.
Anybody have some insight to make this click in my head?

Comments deleted.

Would getting an integrated lead screw stepper motor be worthwhile? Or is there no significant difference between the integrated lead screw stepper motor and the conventional coupling method?

no advantage

what a beautiful printer, did you make it your self?

Would anything special need to be done in order to make the bed 300x300 as far and making sure its still solid? I have been looking at beds and it seems this would work out pretty well if its possible with limited mods.


I don't think so. I am planning to make 400x400 with slicon 220v bed heater.

I see the black flexi conduit pipe is held in with printed holders

but i dont see those holders in the thing files list... are this an add on that came later?

i would for sure love to have it

Its on the front page along with the other "Optional Components": http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1232213

V-Slot Tubing Clip
Comments deleted.

Is there mod for motor to be mounted on top of extruder?

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

Look at the remixes... there are a few options for direct drive.... Personally, I recommend the E3D titan with pancake stepper to avoid shifting

maby easy question, would ading weight to extruder affect how the belts more and stuff?

Yes, The more weight on the extruder, the more stress on the motion portion of the printer. If you have a heavier weight extruder moving at the same speed as a lighter extruder, it is going to take more force to stop the heavier extruder and change directions. This leads to shifting in the print since the belts are ever so slightly elastic.

What this means, is if you have a a direct drive extruder, you will have to run a much slower speed in order to avoid shifting in your prints in comparison to the original bowden style extruder/hot end setup.

The only close exception to this is the titan extruder with a slim pancake stepper..... pancake steppers weigh a lot less, making them a viable option for those who really want direct drive, without the direct drive speeds...... look at Ultimakers and Makerbots. Ultimaker is a bowden style CoreXY printer and prints much faster than a makerbot which is H gantry setup with direct drive.

Yes, The more weight on the extruder, the more stress on the motion portion of the printer. If you have a heavier weight extruder moving at the same speed as a lighter extruder, it is going to take more force to stop the heavier extruder and change directions. This leads to shifting in the print since the belts are ever so slightly elastic.

What this means, is if you have a a direct drive extruder, you will have to run a much slower speed in order to avoid shifting in your prints in comparison to the original bowden style extruder/hot end setup.

The only close exception to this is the titan extruder with a slim pancake stepper..... pancake steppers weigh a lot less, making them a viable option for those who really want direct drive, without the direct drive speeds...... look at Ultimakers and Makerbots. Ultimaker is a bowden style CoreXY printer and prints much faster than a makerbot which is H gantry setup with direct drive.

Switching the extruder to direct drive should only effect properties related to acceleration, so overall slower speeds. But you'd get the benefit of less hysteresis, so easier to tune retractions.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Hello are any of the parts in the attached STL files optional? I believe the ones listed here are required, but wanted to confirm. I am ordering from 3D Hubs and want to minimize the amount of pieces I absolutely need printed from there, I'll just print all the optional pieces once I get it up and running. Thanks.

You can buy these for .20 cents, I believe people had problems with 3d printed ones so this may help

now you wont have to buy 3d printed bearing shim (20 of them)

Im confused, You say in BOM to buy Pla because it prints all parts depending on infill and shells.

But in your build guide it says to use abs because Pla cracks, Cant we just reinforce the Pla printed parts with Glue or something?

Something i have tried in Prints is to use clear nail strengthener, make the weak parts of my prints strong (alot stronger, usualy 2 coatings)

Somewhere in the comments spauda01 mentions that his was printed with PLA. He has had a few cracks but it hasn't affected anything. He, and others, recommend PETG for the best performance. Since my current printer can't print PETG (ptfe hotend)
:( I have been printing the parts in PLA with 100% infill. If I feel the parts aren't sufficient, I will reprint with PETG after my DBOT is up and running.

Can you tell me how much Kg or G you used to print in 100% infill, and how manny shells.

Want to get an idea of how manny Kg fillament i will need to buy

Im a bit over halfway through printing the parts (really taking my time and printing slow) and Im about 3/4 way through a spool. I had 1 major fail that probably took up 150-200 grams of filament (maybe more)... There is no way I'm going to be able to complete this project with 1 spool. Definitely can complete this with 1.5 kg of filament.

Started Printing today, For somethings like Fan duct, power switch holder, and power supply clamp, ect. Im doing lower infilland shells.

Only going to do 100% infill and more shells on motor mounts, the extruder parts ect.

Save me some fillament and less time to print

PTFE is good up till 260C. Almost all brands of PETG print below 260. I use eSun primarily and typically print at 230C.

Just FYI

Comments deleted.
Dec 15, 2016 - Modified Dec 15, 2016

Have somebody tried to use Solid V Wheels instead of Mini V Wheel (bigger ones)?
(I know that will have to redesign carriages, just can't get mini wheels in my location)
Will bigger wheels have any weak points?

Make sure there the right size

Modified V-slot wheels!
Dec 19, 2016 - Modified Dec 19, 2016
mikelthebeast - in reply to _MSA_

Dont think anyone has anything else to say other than 3d print your own

z motors do i do 0.55 for the 2 at the bottom, or do i double it for 2 motors???

build guide page 54

Did you use solid wire.
can i use solid wire for everything except the extruder and heated bed

no solid wire

For some reason when I home X the endstop does not actually stop motion and the print head tries to keep going. When I check it using M119 it shows as triggering. When pressed. Has anyone else had this issue?

double check wiring

Check! I had checked the wiring many times but apparently the 5th time was the charm. The endstops are all good to go. Now however the snowball keeps rolling, my hotend does not want to heat up. There are 12V going in. I have checked all the wiring over many times. Is there something besides the heating element I should check before I order a new heating element?

Thanks spauda01 to not only the time putting all of this together but to actively helping everyone one here troubleshoot. It is greatly appreciated!!

Comments deleted.

What heated bed would be recommended right now for printing ABS?

Do i connect the pins under motor control boards
Like in page 4 pins

if you are talking about JUMPERS (3) under each STEPPER MOTOR DRIVER, yes. In that guide, it says it's a must because anything less would not be precise enough. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Comments deleted.
Dec 12, 2016 - Modified Dec 12, 2016

Anyone interested in creating a Google Group for this printer? I feel like a lot of pit falls and issues are just getting buried away in the insane amounts of comments. With a group you could at least search for issues and relevant data.

The Wanaho Printer group is fantastic. Maybe we can create something similar. I haven't actually build this printer yet but I have already started accumulating parts for the build.
...just a thought.

SideNote: spauda01, you did a F-ing amazing job on this build guide and BOM!! Thanks so much.

This would be good idea, But the owner of the printer (spauda01) would have to be owner of the group or something, and add the link in his discription. something like dbot fourms would be good, hate searching for answers here

There is a Facebook group setup as well

Comments deleted.


I read the Build Guide carefully multiple times.
One thing that I don't really get yet is the black bowden bowden outlet connector shown on page 53.
This part is neither listed on the BOM, nor in extruder section in the hardware quanitites (only parts for the springloaded flange).
Please clarify :)

comes with hot end

Mine came with the small black retaining ring only, not like that on the picture on page 53.
The black part I'm talking about is on the extruder outlet (something like a black nut + 2 black rings), not on the hotend side

you have to buy the hotend with bowden kit as stated in the bom

Makes sense, I bought the universal version as I didn't need tubing and so on. Thanks for clarifying



Please Comment If I did Something Wrong also it its correct

the 3d printer should be less than $500
Even cheaper if you find a better price somewhere else.

Comment On the Spredsheet if errors Please Did this fast.

Also depends On shipping too, so find same stuff with free shipping to keep it cheap :P

In process in updating the bill of materials, ill figure out how to post it here soon

What gauge rating does the tap need to be

I saw one that says up to 10 gauge, not sure if ist enough

Comments deleted.

Okay I know that you purposely replaced the 20x40 extrusions with the 20x20 extrusions at the bottom. However, I only have 20x40 extrusions. Looking at the build I didn't see where this would affect the printed parts needed or did I miss something?

The motor mounts would be slightly affected and you'd have a few cm less printing space in Z.

Is it possible to use a BL-Touch on this printer?

How would I expand this printer to 300x300, would I just need to add 100mm to the shorter rails?

how would I expand this to 300

There's an addendum at the bottom of the build guide with the correct lengths for 300×300.

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016

Hey I have a question,

I've built my dbot and got my SSR finally. It sort of works, but my bed takes around 7 minutes to reach 60ºC.

I use a converted ATX PSU which should have enough power. There's a raspberry PI on the 5VSB lane so there's some connection there. The voltage does not drop, it stays constantly at around 11.6V. I measured the power output between the 12V lane and the heated bed and apparently it only gives around 1A, if at all.
I have a total circuit resistance from the SSR to the GND of around 1.9Ω.

Why does my power supply supply only around 1A to the heated bed? What am I doing wrong here?

Edit: just noticed, I have apparently a SSR-40DD 40A DC3-32V DC5-110V instead of DC5-60V. Can this be the culprit?

Edit2: tried connecting the bed directly to the RAMPS without the relay, still get only around 0.7A.

Edit3: tried connecting the bed directly to the 12V lane without anything, still output of only around 0.7A. So I guess it's the PSU fault? I just don't get why, though.

I used to use a converted computer power supply till the day it died on me. Then bought a decent 12v power supply and to my surprise my bed heating was noticeably much faster.

I used to use a converted computer power supply till the day it died on me. Then bought a decent 12v power supply and to my surprise my bed heating was noticeably much faster.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

maybe you did like me.... removed all the wires and only soldered in 2 wires for 12V ?

most new ATX have a single 3.3V sense wire. that one needs to be connected to 3.3V or it will not work right

you also need a 10 ohm load resistor on the 5V line - ie connect between black and a red
and a 4,7 ohm load resistor on the 3.3v line - ie connect between black and orange

both resistors should be rated at 15W with heatsinks. i have ziptied mine inside the psu to the mesh part so they have conduct some heat to the metal and some are taken by the airflow. i placted a strip of kapton tape between to keep them isolated electrical


what do you use to heat the bed? pcb? silicone heater?

what does a converted ATX psu means in your case? does it have load resistors added?

your SSR is ok it needs between 3 and 32 V on the input and can handle/switch voltages between 5 and 110 V. 40A maximum

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
darkarchon - in reply to boelle

It's just an ATX PSU with the necessary wires cut and changed so it works for a 3d printer. But I guess I just measured it wrong. I get 11.6V on the heatbed with a resistance of 1.6Ω so I guess I'll get around 7A of current on the heat bed. Measuring current somehow doesn't work properly for whatever reason.

It's a MK2a PCB heat bed btw.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

i have the same bed on a mendel90. you should get 7.5A

have you done as i just wrote with load resistors etc?

I tried adding some load on the 5V line by using multiple halogen bulbs, but it does not significantly increase the voltage on the 12V line. What kind of resistance do you have on your MK2a heat bed? With 1.6Ω I could theoretically only get around 7.5A when I have a 100% balanced 12V line. (P=V/R)


is the 3.3V Sense connected to anything?

Yes 3.3V sense is connected. The resistance of the heat bed is just too high from my basic understanding of electronics.

yeah.... should be far less

let me messure my bed

but you will still need the load resistors to make the psu work right. if they are not there there is the risk that is limits the current and voltage

I get about 3.7 ohms when connected diretly to the ramps board

That's a lot though. Can you measure the bed when it's not powered on and only between the contacts on the board?

that was with no power on.

and i did take that messurement at the bed terminals.

i cant disconnet it right now.

"N.B. It is recommended that you measure the resistance of your board. I (evilB) didn't and blew up my Ramps 1.2 MOSFET because of a too high current. My measured resistance was 0.8 Ohm."

taken from the page: http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed

let me think what your problem could be

hmm is the bed a dual power one? some are made to run from both 24V and 12V

anyways if you connect the bed directly your numbers should be ALMOST the same... they will differ a bit

and in this case of a MK2a the SSR is not really needed

When the board is on I get around 340Ω?!

Buy the proper power supply, its only $20

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
darkarchon - in reply to spauda01

Well I measured it wrong (measured in parallel not serial). I'm actually getting around 7.4A to the heatbed, which is pretty much exactly what I would expect given 11.6V and 1.6Ω resistance. So mostly a user error here. The bed is just shit with this high resistance.

anyways the PCB should be arround 0.8 ohms not connected

i wonder why yours is double that

if i will build this i figured to have 2 Q parts and have the Z spindles half way

how much would O and P have to be extended to make it just reach fit?

tried to look if that has been asked before but with 1887 comments one would go "nuts"

EDIT: i see that people advise against this. My worries for bigger beds (over 300300) is that the weight would zag/tilt down. Lets say i go very crazy and do a 500500mm would it still just be a matter of finding center of gravity?

also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

GT2 belt should be approximately (E×2)+G+R plus corners and all the stuff, so add another 20cm or so.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
boelle - in reply to darkarchon

Thanks, staring at a K8200 and wondering if i should raid it for parts and start to build in the spring

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 10, 2016


Some one can help me plz? I received my motors. They are those one : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-5Pcs-3D-printer-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-Nema-17-motor-42BYGH/32310772437.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.INBUpt&detailNewVersion=&categoryId=100007155

rouge: A +
vert: Un-
jaune: B +
bleu: B-

I'm not sur about the order wiring compared to the diagram project. Can you help me plz?

Second question my cartridge cable (ed3v6) is too short. This is the same for you? This is a particular cable, can I put a classic extension without risks?

Thx =)

Dec 10, 2016 - Modified Dec 10, 2016
boelle - in reply to Jonathanmf

order should be

red 2B
blue 2A
green 1A
black 1B


cartridge cable.. is that the heater or thermistor cartridge?

Hi ! Thx for your help :)
All thoses cables. But i should not be the only one in thises case no ? They are to short if we want to root them in a proper way.

For steppers I only have :

So i must follow this order ?

The stepper will work on the right way ?

Thx again !

then you have the same colour as in the diagram


just follow the order of that diagram and you should be ok.

if stepper wires are to short just cut them half way and insert a 0.52 square mm wire to make it long enough. in this way its does not matter what colour wire you use as it will be in the middle of the wire with org. wire at each end

Thanks ! OK for steppers ;) If you planned to come visit Paris, I owe you a coffee :)

For cables, is more about heater et thermistor. Heater cable is protected by a red skin (I don't have the right name sorry). If I make it longer with a classic cable, it'll be safe?
After that, promise, I'll stop with my questions ;)

Thx again

Read all notes in the bill of materials for which wire to use and also read everything in the electrical section of the build guide


you can extend it with classic wire. 0.75 square mm should be ok

but if you can get rubber cable for kitchen stove that would be better.

what i do is going to local hardware store and get a cable with 3*1.5 square mm cable and throw away all the black outher insulation away and also i throw away the green/yellow wire and i keep the brown and blue one. in the case of the heater wires it does not matter what wire is what

it should not be this kind: http://www.bauhaus.dk/el-belysning/elinstallation/ledninger-kabler/installationskabel-3x1-5-mm2-50-meter-schneider-electric.html

that is for permanent installs inside walls etc and they have stiff single core wires

it should be more like this: http://www.bauhaus.dk/el-belysning/elinstallation/ledninger-kabler/kabelsaet-uden-jord-15-meter.html

ie a soft rubber like cable... i guess H07RN-F is what you should look for

Comments deleted.

Power supply 110v or 230v switch???????

Does it matter?????

also doesnt say in build guide Please Help
thanks whoever helps

What country are you in

US Oregon.
your Build diagram and Bill of materials Says 5A fuse
Build guide says 10A

What fuse should i use???

If you actually bothered to read the build guide you would have seen that the diagram in the build guide you are referring to is for an AC bed.



5A fuse is half that

only fit a fuse just big enough for what you need.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

"Read the build guide before ordering parts."


Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

Thanks. Seems obvious now.


also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?


also is there a formula hidden somewhere for figuring GT2 Belt lenght in relation to build volume?

Comments deleted.

Is screwing 3dParts to Frame Required??? OR is there another option that doesnt require that

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016


if i will build this i figured to have 2 Q parts and have the Z spindles half way

how much would O and P have to be extended to make it just reach fit?

tried to look if that has been asked before but with 1887 comments one would go "nuts"

EDIT: i see that people advise against this. My worries for bigger beds (over 300300) is that the weight would zag/tilt down. Lets say i go very crazy and do a 500500mm would it still just be a matter of finding center of gravity?

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016

I get a winding noise from the motors like an airplane is landing. Anyone know what that is? I had the potentiometer at .55 but increased it for X and Y because I was having issues with movement due to one of the pulleys rubbing against a bearing and the printed part but I was able to solve that issue but the sound still remains a bit then goes away after a bit. Btw, my Nema 17s were 6 wire, I think bipolar if that has any issues with it but I only used 4 of the wires and tested them before hand.

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to silq707

Is it only when the motors move?
How about a video?
I have no idea if your motors are right or not.

Dec 8, 2016 - Modified Dec 8, 2016
silq707 - in reply to spauda01

It is only when they are not moving. When tested before putting on any belts, they did not have that sound but at the moment, it is not a big issue. I will make a video once I finish all the more important stuff like wire management since all my endstop wires, etc were a bit short. As far as changing your stepper motor drivers to TMC2100, did you have to do convert it to 24v? This video shows how a guy used a step up converter and few other things to do it. I am just curious because this will be my next project, to try to make the printer silent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdMxwpNk1KU#t=551.706898

Comments deleted.

Will there be any drilling into the aluminum frame? If so Just a drill bit Woud work or something special

also can dual extruder be supported in this build, ?

Comments deleted.
Dec 6, 2016 - Modified Dec 6, 2016

What are the external measurements of the finished build? Will it fit inside a server rack? Thanks!

Hi, I'm having some difficulty homing my printer. The motors travel in the correct direction and the end stops seem to be wired correctly, using M119 I can see the correct ones trigger.
The process at the moment when I home is - Z lowers, X homes to 0 (left hand side) and Z homes to 0.
Y homing does not happen.

Any ideas?

Are you using the marlin file from the downloads page

Dec 5, 2016 - Modified Dec 6, 2016
bananas07 - in reply to spauda01

No, RC-07. With the same edits from the one in the download page.

I have just tried the firmware from the downloads page - same deal. The only item that's different in this build is the main board. I'm using a MKS Gen 1.4

SOLVED - Didn't read the wiring diagram carefully enough. I was using Y-min instead of Y-max.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

all in the build guide

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

I want to build one , but I really do not know what the dimensions of the v-slot are and how I do not know, I can not buy them.
¿Can you help me?
I want to make one like your printer.

Comments deleted.

Hey all!
I am having an issue with my z motors. Here's a video of the problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLY4-qEaIF8.

First off they are really jittery, I have checked the voltage and they seem to be ok there. Also they only go down regardless of the direction I select, I have check all the wiring multiple times and it seems correct. I am at a loss.

Can you give a link to the motors you bought

On the dbot wiring diagram, the motor plugs are R G Y Blu. Yours need to be Blk G R Blu

Comments deleted.

I have them all in that order and that's when the z motors act strange.

Are your X and Y motors working right?

Did you put jumpers under each stepper driver?

Are all of your firmware settings the same as the default Dbot marlin file?

The X and Y motors work perfectly, I have jumpers under each driver and I am double checking the firmware now to make sure that is correct.

Swap your X and Z stepper drivers and see what it does.

WOW! I can't believe I did not try that. Thank you for your help. That driver is bad, after they are switched the Z motors work perfectly and the X motor has the issues.

Most ramps kits come with 5 stepper drivers, do you have a spare?

I do, that one appears to be a total dud because now my x motor is non responsive. I am going to switch the new driver over to y and make sure it is dead before I order new ones.

Why do you need new ones? dont you have a spare driver?

I do but when I replaced the jittery driver with my spare the motor that the spare driver is on is completely non responsive. I tested my spare on both the X and Y motor which become non responsive respectively which leads me to assume that driver is totally dead.

I still don't understand. Do you have one bad driver or are you killing them as you move them around? In that case something might be wrong with your ramps board or wiring

So the driver (Driver 1) I originally had on my Z motors was jittery. This was confirmed when I switched it with the driver on the X motor. After this switch the Z motors ran perfectly and the X motor now exhibited the jittery behavior that the Z motors had been.

I then replaced Driver 1 with my spare driver (Driver 2), (this is on the x motor, I didn't switch back to Z after the initial swap to test Driver 1) and upon making this switch the X motor does nothing. I switched Driver 2 to the Y motor to confirm and after this switch the X motor responds and the Y motor does not respond.

My conclusion is that Driver 1 has partially functionality but Driver 2 has zero functionality.

I understand. Are you observing any esd handling practices

Also your ramps board should of been totally powered off when changing drivers.

I am and I make sure it is powered off before I change anything.

Comments deleted.
Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016


I'm having an issue with the SSR (dc) and the heatbed. I set the printer on 60°C but it only reach 43°C. I check with the multimeter on each terminals of the heatbed and it shows 6.50 V. Also my SSR is really really hot at the point that i could easily cook an egg on it !

Any suggestions ?

bypass wires on terminal 1 and 2 of the ssr to power the bed directly temporarily from the power supply to verify the psu can supply enough juice.

Did you bolt the ssr to the aluminum frame?

Ok done. i have reached 85°. I use a a computer 500w power supply.

Yes SSR is bolted to the aluminum 2020 vslot.

measure resistance between ssr terminals 1 and 2 when terminals 3 and 4 are being controlled by the ramps, then try again when terminals 3 and 4 are powered directly from the 12v psu (watch polarity)

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

Ok i think i know where you are digging.
Yes you are right, my heatbed cable have a too high resistance.
I put some bigger cable and it works perfectly. The heatbed heat much faster and the SSR is colder now.

Thanks for your help Spauda, and thanks for all your work and advice the printer :)

What size wire were you using?

Nov 30, 2016 - Modified Nov 30, 2016
StarSailor - in reply to spauda01

2m awg17

amazing work !!!
But could u provide the .STEP files ???
Would like to make a complete assembly.

Don't have any

Oh thats a pitty!
Maybe some other CAD-formats?

would do me a big favour !

Are there any significant considerations that need to be made when expanding this to 300x300 besides what is listed in the appendix? Will the z axis motors still be sufficient in quantity and power?

Depends how heavy your bed is. If youre just using a 300x300 pcb heater with regular glass its fine. If you use a giant slab of aluminum for a bed it probably wont work

Would that just require more powerful stepper motors then? Or maybe 3x NEMA17s?

I don't know, I can only speak to what works on my printer

I am having a problem connecting to the printer. I do not believe I have a clone it is a Arduino Mega but I am getting the "Communication Timeout - reset send buffer block" error message in Repetier. :/ Please Help. Thank You

Try a different com port maybe

I got it to connect but whenever I use the manual controls the most distance I can go is in increments of 1 if I try 10 the motors squeal and it goes 1. I have tried changing belt tension and alignment and still cant seem to fix it. Any ideas?

sounds like maybe your speeds are set too high

Thank you for your responses they are very helpful. Everthing works now except when I start a print and the bed homes it drops about 1-2mm to low. The z axis homes perfect every other time just not when it starts a print. I can still start a print and move it manually up and it will print but this is and hassle. It almost seems like it trys to home to fast and skips a step. Is there settings that control the start print z home speed that are separate than the normal home button speed?

I am looking for info on a design program. Any help please.

Its fusion 360. Phenomenic CAD/CAM with free license for hobbist.

So I've got another Issue, havent been able to solve.... When I slice my prints in Repetier host, they are centered on the build platform.... but when i go to print them .... they print towards the origin corner (back left). I've checked and double checked the printer config to make sure it lines up with the one in the build kit, but can't for the life of me figure out why it's printing back there.

Anyone else have this issue, or have any insight??

Does your driver file have an origin setting?

I'm not sure? Where is that located?

They try to print on the origin or close to it?

Yeah, so if I center the print in Repetier on the build plate, when I actually go to print, they end up in the back left corner near 0, 200 instead of in the center of the build plate. Ive checked and double checked the printer shape settings to make sure they match the instructions, but unless I move the print to the upper right corner of the Repetier Build area, the print wont be centered.... Any ideas?

Yeah, so if I centere the print in Repetier on the buildplate, when I actually go to print, they end up in the back left corner near 0, 200 instead of in the center of the buildplate. Ive checked and double checked the printer shape settings to make sure they match the instructions, but unless I move the print to the upper right corner of the Repetier Build area, the print wont be centered.... Any ideas?

Hello! I plan to build a D-bot because I find it really great and a well docuented project. I read of a lot of different improvements over the original design and I'd like to know your opinion about them:

1) if you have a list of the first ones it could help so much
2) I see someone use linear rails instead of the wheels, do you think it will improve the quality so much?
3) I'd like to go direct drive instead of bowden, do you think it will reduce the max speed and quality of the print so much?
4) I see a lot of efforts to stabilize the Z axis (I see even 3 motors to lift the bed!!), do you think it's needed?
5) is it a plan to have a new revision of this design with some improvements (an E-bot maybe?) or it's a complete project without further development? Just to understand if I should wait for the new one :)

Thank you very much for any help!

Maybe D2! E bot's taken! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1656792

David will chime in, but here my 2 cents:
1) The remixs are scattered about thingiverse and openbuilds. Just search D-bot and C-bot on thingiverse and browse.
2) The person that did that had not even tried it with the v-wheels first, people like to add their own flavour and I can't blame them as I do too. In this case, you might as well of just redesigned the printer with linear rail rather then mash it into the existing design. It has been shown to work great, but so has the D-Bot. Not needed IMO.
3) It will reduce max speed, but will not change your typical print speeds. Direct will be more prone to ringing at higher speeds, but print quality will be better with greater retraction authority.
4) As people get more experimental with bed size/ weight and Z height it will needed, but other parts will have to be redesigned as well.
5) David? Since it is Opensource it's constantly developing as long as people are still interested in the project. An updated release would be great though! It is just a lot of work in my experience.


I've been posting a little bit about the progress on building my D-bot on my blog for a school project: https://3dprintcreations.wordpress.com/
I created the frame out of order because I am an idiot that doesn't follow instructions sometimes and still a few parts have not came in from China. A few parts warped heavily or printed badly and I broke two extruders so I was at a stoppage for a week. This was an interesting project because before this, I never used a multimeter, soldering iron, digital calipers and anything electrical so I went against the preface of the guide a bit but I learn fairly quick. Also another mistake was getting eBay motors, I got refurbished stepper motors with 6 wires. I tested one and they work but sounds a bit weird for now.

Comments deleted.

Are you aware that some dickhead from Australia is actually selling printed parts for your design on ebay?
this is just 1 of his listings - eBay item number: 252468041820

Also, it is a service for people who don't have 3D printers. For me, 3 parts printed incorrectly and my 3D printer broke so I considered buying parts. It's not different from what 3Ders does but people should always cite the creator as courtesy and it maybe required for some of the licensing rules I think.

Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 states:

You are free to:
Share — copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format
Adapt — remix, transform, and build upon the material
for any purpose, even commercially.

If you're happy with that.................................................my understanding was commercially but not for profit.
Seriously though you are giving something away for free, and some lowlife who doesn't have the skills or intelligence to create what you have created is benefitting financially from your work.

Same thing here http://ooznest.co.uk/3D-Printer-CNC-Kits-Bundles/D-Bot

This is open source hardware, people are going to try to make money on it. Being open also means people can build it from scratch for cheaper. Thats capitalism I guess

Nov 21, 2016 - Modified Nov 21, 2016

I'm ALMOST finished with my D-Bot. Can someone please tell me which direction the Y axis should move when I hit the y+? Right now it's moving to the back of the printer (away from me). On my old printer (Prussia clone), it moved towards me so that it homed in the front left corner of the bed. On my D-bot, it's homing to the back left point (I am having to use the yMAX end point pins)

It should move back. Home position is back left

Comments deleted.

Great printer - half of the plastic parts are printed in PETg @ 80% infill, most of my mechanical parts have arrived
The print bed you show is different from the BOM - I'm in Canada and have not found a print bed like the one shown
Can you display where you ordered this bed from ?
Looking forward to finishing this project

All the links I used are in the bom

Nov 18, 2016 - Modified Nov 18, 2016

Hey Spauda01,
Great work! I'm making for myself right now and came to issue.
X and Y axis are flipped. How can I unflipped both axis? Something to do with a marlin code? Or just check the wiring and cables?
It is possible to solve this if I switch endstops and settings for homing and max length of axis?

Double check where motor wires connect to the ramps board x and y terminals, pay attention to the colors of the pins on the electrical diagram

So I'm finally at a point where parts actually move on this thing, and I'm doing PID tuning. Got through the Hotend tuning no problem, but when I went to tune the heated bed, I got nothing. I had a spare SSR that I switched out, and now when I plug the printer in, the bed starts heating immediately, and does not stop. I turned the printer off around 80 degrees before it started getting out of hand. No light on the SSR, and PID tuning essentially failed because it was too high of a temp. I double-triple checked all wiring involving the heatbed, and the first time around I verified that it had a normal ambient temp that matched the hotend.

Any thought from anyone?

thats a symptom of relay pins 1 and 2 being reversed

Yep I found a YouTube video that said the same thing. However, after switching them back (which, btw, i only did them wrong, semi-intentionally on the 2nd SSR I tried) I still get no heat or light on the SSR, so I "turned on the bed" in Rep-Host and measured the voltage directly on the PHB pins on the RAMPS and they're putting out nothing, so at this point I highly doubt it's the SSR at all, and am ordering a new RAMPS.

apply 12v to ssr pins 3 and 4 directly (note polarity) from the 12v power supply while you have a multimeter across the hbp pins, you should see the led turn on and voltage apply to the bed

I am building with this printer mainly for speed print . I am planning to use a 32bit 24v capable electronics.
Can someone suggest some good nema motors?

Nov 16, 2016 - Modified Nov 16, 2016

I had printed all the regular parts minus the shims and spacers a while ago in PLA since I had no PETG. I figured, once the D-bot is built and calibrated, I would just print all the parts again but on the D-bot and in PETG since I just received some for the first time. What layer height did everyone use? I didn't think of how much of a pain in the ass trying to fit the bearings in their spots. Also, I don't have room to put a washer in between the two F623ZZ flanged bearings but the bearings still spin well. I can't foresee a problem but would this be an issue or is the washer just mainly serving a purpose so that the bearings aren't loose? Almost all parts came in and the last parts, the actual V-slot extrusions come in Friday so I am excited. One thing I would add to the BOM is a 5Amp fuse. The power switch with fuse didn't come with a fuse. I bought a 10amp fuse and then saw the wiring diagram called for a 5amp fuse but fortunately it was a mega pack of all different amperages.

I'm looking for some input.
Is there anyone using 1/32 stepping? or is there any point in going to 1/32 since with 16 tooth pulleys give 10 micron Resolution at 1/16 step?
trying to figure out what i should do,I do like the sound of 1/32 stepping over 1/16, but I'm concerned with performance issues with 1/32 step with pulleys being 16 tooth.

For anyone that has built one of these to the as-designed print height, how much extra lead screw is protruding upwards when the print bed is all the way up? I ask because I increased the vertical legs of my frame by 120 mm (I'm still in mid-build), and I'm wondering if 500 mm long lead screws will be sufficient, or if I need to get 600 mm screws?

Only about 25mm

If my height is 120mm taller, and my lead screws are only 100mm longer, that leaves me with 5mm stick-thru. Might be a little too close for comfort.

I'll measure it accurately later if I remember, that was just from looking at the pictures. I just remembered my version has slightly higher motors too.

Anyone have any tips on printing the bearing shims and wheel spacers? I figure it is best to print them in mass so that the hotend doesn't melt such a small object but then I get a lot of stringing even though I increased my retraction and lowered temp. If I just print one at a time, it's just a ball of ooze. I was printing shims 10 at a time and a small amount came out fine and the others just needed a ton of cutting and sanding. Not sure if this is supposed to be the process or if people are able to print out small objects just fine.

They should come out fine on a working printer, you can just buy shims here if they wont come out http://openbuildspartstore.com/mini-v-wheel-precision-shim/

Hi. I'm looking to build one of these using parts from my HICTOP printer since I have all the electronics already. It uses a 24V Power supply and doesn't use an actual RAMPs board. It appears to be a custom board combining the Mega and RAMPs (like a RAMBo). Do you think I could upload this firmware and have it work? It is a Mega 2560 chip on board after all.

Hello, I am looking to build 300x300 version running on 24v with an AC bed and have a few questions about how this differs from the original build guide.

  1. Is a 20A PSU sufficient for 24v setup with AC bed? What is the maximum draw for 24v setup?
  2. I have a 15A circuit for the printer to run on, do others have larger or dedicated circuits for the printer? What is the average draw during general use/operation? Seems like a lot of power consumption for something like longer print jobs.
  3. Anyone have a recommended AC 300x300 bed?
  4. In the original build guide, why is the recommended power socket rated at 10A when the PSU is rated up to 30A? What rating power socket is required for 24v setup with silicon bed?

Thanks in advance!

You're confusing power supply input current with output current.

D'oh! Right you are. Strike questions 2 and 4. Reading other comments here, it seems even 10A PSU may be sufficient for 24v operation with an AC bed? Thanks

OK, need some help here. I finished my D-Bot and am re-uploading Marlin.

After I click the check-mark, I get the following:

sketch\temperature.cpp:565:46: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive


What does this mean, do I need to worry about it, and how can I fix it?

What do these mean and how do I fix them?

Are you using the marlin file from the Dbot downloads page

Yes I am.

Nov 7, 2016 - Modified Nov 22, 2016

Have D-Bot up and running. Just have a few things to finalize for appearances. Having issues keeping the MK2a bed at +100° even using a dedicated 400w power supply. I can get it to 110° with a piece of cardboard laid on top during warmup but it drops quickly once the cardboard is removed even while being enclosed fully. Anyway, working on that although 100° may be high enough anyway. The XH-M135 relay does a much better job than the SSR-40DD. I have the power supply turned up to about 13v to give me close to 12v at the bed. I have nothing else running off of this power supply. The clicking doesn't bother me because the printer is setup in an extra bed room. I'll get a write up done once I have the project finished with the trials & tribulations I experienced.

This post is really about my first print attempt. The dimensions are good for both X & Y but the infill has a bad repeating pattern. I have a link to the image.
I killed the print after few layers once it was apparent it was no good.
It's making a basket weave looking infill. I have the infill set to 100% rectilinear. Adhesion to the bed was good and no weird noises from the motors as if something were binding. I do have the Y-belt (Right Front) slightly tighter than the X side to square up the H-bar but it's not over tight and is just slightly tighter than the X-belt. Also, like I mentioned the dimensions are good.

I haven't seen this affect on my Prusa i3, so anyone knows what's the likely cause........
Much appreciation to Spauda for all the work and help as well as the whole community.

UPDATE: It was an under extrusion issue due to needing higher temperature than expected for the E3D v6 extruder. I printed ABS with 230° on my i3 but I need +/- 250° with ABS on this setup. Filament was jamming up extruder very quickly with only 230°.

I'm no expert but I always refer to these guides when my prints dont come out right.


maybe #15 broken infill

What makes the clicking noise? From Amazon reviews, a lot of heating beds have bad reviews in general so possibly that can be an issue with the product itself, idk.
Imgur "C7Vette's images are not publicly available."

OK, got actual link to image finally, sorry again


The clicking is from the relay (XH-M135)
Hear you on the heat bed. Gonna have look into that further to see if I need a change.

This link should work, sorry. Haven't used Imgur before.

I read something about increasing the actual extruder size to possibly up to 0.45. I'm gonna try increasing it a little bit at the time.


Nov 7, 2016 - Modified Nov 7, 2016

I'm struggling to find a supplier of V-Slot in Australia. Is V-Slot interchangeable with T-Slot for this printer?

No, it is only designed for Vslot

Nov 6, 2016 - Modified Nov 6, 2016

First set of parts ordered for mine. I will create a page later with my adventure. I have ZERO knowledge in 3D Printing, but am a programmer and bot builder, so this is going to be a good challenge. Have a friend in another state starting to print my initial parts. Wish me luck!

I've checked out all other 3D-Printers on this site and various Kits and already made units. I figured this one would be more future proof and a larger initial build area. Plus, looking at Youtube Videos of this and various others that have built it, I can't go wrong.

Plus there's a Fry's right down the road for a lot of the wiring, steppers, Arduino's etc.

Has anyone put TMC2100 drivers in to silence the stepper motors? Also, how do I need? 1 per axis and 1 for the extuder so total 4?

Nov 6, 2016 - Modified Nov 6, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to silq707

I tried them, i have a couple demo videos on my youtube channel. You don't really need them on z since it moves so infrequently, you could put on on the extruder but the real noise sources are the x and y motors so you might try two

Was originally looking to go 300x300mm but thinking 254x254mm might be more manageable. Has anyone done a 254mm build surface and if so, did you follow the 300mmx300mm cut list or stick with the original?

Nov 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 4, 2016

First of all thanks to Spauda01 for the awesome work.
I'm setting up my newly build D-Bot, but I just can't get extrusion right with my Smoothieboard. Does this picture suggest to anyone where the problem is? Extruder's steps/mm are perfectly tuned.

Also I can't get the Z carriage wheels to tighten against the vertical extrusions, there seems to be a little bump on each inner half of the Z Wheel Guides that prevents them to fully make contact on each other. Any tips? My bed wobbles noticeably...

Try the Cbot forum, several people there used smoothieboards

Thanks for the heads up. Anything on this nudge?

That lip should be on the end of the rail, not the side unless the cuts are crooked

Like this? Or am I missing the point? Thanks for being super-helpful :)

I think I see what you are getting at, I don't think the two plastic pieces are supposed to touch at that lip, I'll need to look at my setup tonight

I guess having used T-Nuts leftovers from another build instead of plain square nuts may have affected those pieces' geometry.

Awesome! Thanks.

Ok, so after a week of troubleshooting I'm coming up short.... My D-Bot is having Issues jogging the X axis.... After I flashed the Marlin Firmware in the Download included, the following has happened.

1.) The original flash of the firmware directly from the download worked, but when I tried to auto home in the full graphic controller, the printer would home in the completely wrong direction.
2.) I re-flashed with inverted X and Y axis.... fixed the homing issue.
3.) Went on to start messing with the printer in Repetier, Auto home doesn't work, X-axis will not move manually at all. Y axis buzzes instead of moves. Z is fine.
4.)Tried swapping XY motors on Ramps headers, Issue does not leave X axis.
5.)haven't swapped endstops due to the spliced wiring configuration of Y and Z endstops.
6.)tried swapping a4988 drivers... no change.
7.)Also, I noticed when I flash the original Marlin, The LCD screen says "D-Bot CoreXY ready" like it should, but when I flash the same config with inverted X Y directions, it says "SD removed" when I haven't modified any settings in regards to the SD card.
8.)I has gotten to the point where X travel makes the X motor skip so bad that the X belt is continually pulling slack into itself, When I tighten up the X axis belt, the skipping gets less dramatic, but no matter the tension of X, Y travel is smooth.

Any help is appreciated, my head hurts at this point.

Solution found. Nuts on the inside of the printer carriage were not flush, and when I tightened the belt clamps it was acting like a clamp on the gantry arm.

Now, however, ive got some sort of issue with printing from Usb.... i get a communication error mid print and the printer stays idle waiting for command... gonna try printing from SD because I haven't found much documentation on the issue.

What brand of arduino board do you have?

Currently using an osyoo 2560 off amazon...... I've also got another Inland branded board laying around

Would you happen to know what kind of serial chip it uses? I originally had a knockoff Arduino with a serial chip that liked to randomly drop out

Good Idea, I swapped it with the Inland Branded board, It still dropped once, but I got off two successful prints so far. Not sure if that is the exact issue, Haven't tried prints longer than an hour.... if it happens again, I'm going to try a different version of Repetier host and see if that helps, I'd rather not bump up to RC7 Marlin until it becomes a stable build.

Also probably going to implement auto bed leveling.

Thanks again for the great build Spauda! Ill upload my make shortly!

WHat operating system do you have?

When the issue first popped up i was on windows 7 pro x64, then in an attempt to fix any usb errors, I upgraded to windows 10 x64

The original version of marlin you downloaded had a parameter set which defines core XY movement. Are you sure that this has been defined in the new version of the firmware? It is critical that this is defined or it will not work correctly.

When I first made mine I found that there was also a bug in earlier versions of Marlin that would not allow the Y axis stop to work correctly as a max stop rather than a min stop.

This has been fixed in the newest release candidate of Marlin, would suggest you download that but then copy all the parameters from the version included with the thing files.


I will probably do this, Do you think i run any risk installing u8glib and the full graphic smart controller for the printer? or just run blind without an LCD?

Nov 4, 2016 - Modified Nov 4, 2016
spauda01 - in reply to DSchmidt54

Your best option is to hook everything up the same as the build guide/diagrams with the Dbot marlin firmware. Once you confirm all of that hardware is good, then you can start adding extras

Found the issue, posted above, thanks for your help spauda!

The available download of Marlin does not have any setup for lcd screens

My apologies, I also installed U8glib and enabled Full graphic LCD support.

Nov 3, 2016 - Modified Nov 3, 2016

To Spauda01: there is a conflict in the documentation over the correct type of SSR to use.

  • The D-Bot Build Guide pdf says on page 75: "Use an AC SSR, not a DC SSR, they look very similar."
  • The D-Bot Bill of Materials pdf says "SSR DC DC Relay | Solid State AC relay will not work with a DC load | Don't confuse with the SS AC relay, they look similar, read the label"

Looking at the D-Bot electrical diagram (which does not specify either way), the circuit appears to be all DC apart from the AC mains input. So it's the Build Guide that needs correction. The Build Guide link to Amazon is for a 40A DC/DC SSR, which seems ok.

It may be worthwhile amending the Build Guide sometime.

P.S. In the SketchUp model, the SSR is a block named SSR-25-DA, which again is misleading. Should be renamed SSR-25DD.

That's in the appendix, for an alternate setup. It says "Electrical diagram for an AC voltage heated bed is shown below"

Nov 3, 2016 - Modified Nov 3, 2016
brucesdad13 - in reply to Ian_3234

I suppose it depends on which heater you are running. I have heard of people using heat tape and so forth that might be AC powered. The heatbeds I have seen are all DC. Edit: and I think you're right about the documentation error

Comments deleted.

its in the bill of materials

Yea I tried to delete that comment as I noticed it was in the BOM about 7 seconds after hitting post but I guess you're just that quick lol

Can i use t-slot instead v-slot to build this? Cannot found any vslot seller here. Please advice

At least 5 of the rails need to be V-Slot as the build has wheels that track along the V-Slot in those places (2 vertical poles at the back, the left and right top bars, and the print carriage rail. The rest can theoretically be T-slot without issue.

Comments deleted.

I'm in the movement & homing stage of the project. All 3 axis movements are correct directionally. The X & Z axis homes correctly. Not so great with the Y axis. The movement direction is correct going to the Y-Max of 200 to the back of the bed.The problem is when it contacts the Y-Endstop it seems to want to keep going. It's trying to continue moving to the back even through it's at the end which appears to cause the X to move due to belt tension from the Y (Right) stepper motor.
I notice another post with similar issues but didn't seem to be the exact same situation.
I saw mentioned that he switched a wire. Would this probably be the pin alignment of the endstop plug at the Ramps?
I did not combine the Z & Y endstop wiring as in the electrical diagram but rather just ran them separately. I have all 3 endstop connections with the red wire towards the middle of the ramps board.

Double check your wiring compared to the wiring diagram. If it still doesnt work swap the x and y endstops and see if the problem moves

Oct 29, 2016 - Modified Oct 30, 2016
C7_Vette - in reply to spauda01

Double checked the wiring and swapped endstops but the Y axis still not wanting to stop when it activates the Y endstop. I have the bed size correct as well as the Min/Max values. Seems weird that the endstop is not stopping the travel regardless even if Min/Max values would have been wrong. Checked firmware but can't see anything wrong there. All extensions for the wires are soldered solidly and the light does come on when the endstop is activated. Also, after swapping the X & Y endstops the X still did home correctly.

Tried the M119 command and it showed all endstops open when not activated and shows activated when I press the endstop switch by hand and resend M119. Looks fine there as far as I can tell.

Edit: Just noticed that on the wiring diagram from the build guide that the shared wiring of the Z & Y endstops have the Y using the pin of the Y-Max directly adjacent to the Z-Min pins.Currently with my individual endstop wiring I'm using all Min pin sets. I'll move the Y endstop to the max pins and try it. I'll post back with results.

Results: WOW, that was it. If I would have used the shared wiring for Z & Y as in the guide I would not have had the issue to start with. Live and Learn.
Thanks for the assistance.

Sharing the +5v wiring to the Y and Z endstops makes no functional difference, it just saves some wire, but yes you need to make sure that your pin connections at the ramps board match the diagram since Y homes to max not min

Oct 29, 2016 - Modified Oct 29, 2016
TheLost - in reply to C7_Vette

The endstop pins on the RAMPS board should not be switched around! The order of the pins (closest to the edge of the board) is signal, ground, power (Power is closest to the temperature pins).

You can test the status of the end-stops by sending a M119 command. Using it (M119) should help you figure out whats wrong (firmware, bad endstop, bad wire... etc) without having to move the motors/carriage around.

Good morning everyone! Spauda1, thank you for this write up; super helpful. I have a few questions that I need help with.

  1. I plan on using a mains powered bed. 300x300mm 110v 720w. With that said, I will not be pulling any current from the power supply to power the heat bed. Does the power supply still need to be 30amp? Or, can I get away with say a 12v 6amp? I'm just looking for sizing and cleanliness. What would the minimum 12v PSU be?

  2. For the extruder, is there any reason that I couldn't use a pancake stepper? Again, to slimline the build.


I'd go with 12v 10a, always good to have margin on power consumption ratings


Hi all, I have a Solidoodle 2 that I'm ready to throw out the window. It's a really frustrating printer. I'm hoping to get the calibration down enough to print the parts for the D-Bot. What's your experience been like using the D-Bot printer? Can you print technical parts that fit together nicely?

I think it works pretty well but I'm biased. If you have a complex test piece or calibration part in mind I might be able to give it a try

Hah! I hear ya. I don't think it's any more complex than the Eiffel tower you have in the main photo. I am mainly interested in printing parts that fit together consistently. I imagine much of that has to do with the filament and consistent temperature settings but the mechanical aspects as well. Does it do circles and squares well? My Solidoodle 2 seems hopelessly unable to print a decent circle or square. I get ovals and rectangles.

Yes circles come out round and squares are squarey. What kind of parts do you need to print?

Mirror cells, focusers, etc... check out Chriske's "Printsonian" Thingy

How'd you guys get the bed wires to stick to the bottom of the bed cork insulation for wire management?

Seconded JB Weld- essentially I got the cables from both the thermistor and the heated bed and ran them on the outside of the cork, all ran into one piece of shrink tubing which I JB Welded to the cork as well.

jb weld epoxy

Has anyone tried puttng a direct drive extruder on this?


My ongoing build has one as well.

E3D Titan carriage for D-Bot
Oct 23, 2016 - Modified Oct 23, 2016

Is it a good option to use this board for D-Bot?
If so, which drivers and motors are better for this setup?
(300x300mm bed version)

3DBUG - This is the board that I'm going to use once I get everything together. As others mentioned, it doesn't use the Marlin firmware. With that said, there is a fair amount of information on the board and the Smoothie firmware. I believe the drivers come on the board already. You can use the same motors that are linked in the BOM.

It doesn't seems it will support marlin firmware

Can someone explain me pro and cons of J-bot and H-bot z setup?


Great work ! I wanted to know what is the piece? http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/30/00/ed/ab/0d/41dfc062fd44138c104ed6a74b1bd606_preview_featured.JPG

The black one? Whare can i buy one?
Thx for your help


The Bowden tube connector comes with the E3D v6 Bowden kit

OH OK ! Stupid question so ;) Thx !

Great build, and looking forward to doing this myself. One problem...

Im in need of a print area of at least 18" x 18"... Any suggestions for a headed bed of THAT dimension?

Google silicon heatbeds, they can be made in any size.

Everything is finally wired up and working, except I'm having trouble heating the bed.

I tested the SSR without the bed, and it will turn on fine (the red light goes on), but when I have the bed wired, the whole printer shuts down, and at first I thought I blew my PSU (I'm using a 550W computer PSU), but after unplugging and waiting a bit it came back alive.

I have a 12x12 bed, and measured the resistance at 0.7 ohm, which seems a bit low. Is there anything else I could check? Thanks :-)

Can you link to the bed you have

I prefer the solid state relays, they work well when done right. Your bed will draw ~17A max which is pretty high for a 12x12 bed but an SSR-40 should work, double check your wiring before trying again

I managed to figure out the wiring, but I definitely got a fake one. I'm measuring almost 2V of V drop, and with 20amps load, that's almost 40W I'm losing on the SSR, so it gets super hot within a minute... Can you measure the voltage drop on yours?

I have this one:


For reference, I contacted the manufacturer, and he suggested plugging in the bed directly on the PSU for troubleshooting. I did that, and the bed heats up fine! goes to 80C in less than 2 minutes!

Next, I went ahead and measured the resistance on the SSR relay:

  • Closed: Infinite
  • Open: 230K ohms

At this point I think it's the crappy fotek relay, so I will prob need to buy from a more reputable seller. If any other ideas, let me know! :-)

When you are talking 12 V that would be about 205W, correct me if I am wrong. So for a 300x300mm bed that would be at the low end, i.e. not to low a resistance.
Did you check, for instance, http://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_a_Power_Supply_for_your_RepRap ?

sanding the nuts is a huge pain, plus square nuts can be slid in after the build for additional parts.

The T-nuts (last link) don't work.
I bought them and they grab the plastic before they grab the rails, so I had to put small pieces of cardboard on every single one to make them "taller" :)

Thank you for your feedback , would be an option sand it?

Hi all,
I will definitely get into the production of this printer, but just before I wanted a rather general feedback from those who have made it, I have used a "Prusa i3" and "Ultimaker 2 "... is this printer is at least as good as the Ultimaker ???
Thank you for your answers.

Depends on how well you build it.

I've had little experience with an Ultimaker, but my prints look much better than the prints I got off from an Ultimaker 2.

Hi all ,
I am really in trouble finding the best way to realize the bed.
I saw many of you simply use an heated bed screwed to the the printer and a a glass fixed to the bed whit clamps.
My question.
1) isn't the heated to prone to curve during the heating process?
2) Does the glass need to be borosilicate for sustain temperature near 100-110 c°
3) would be an aluminum bed with a silicone heater underneath a better option?

Thank you

1.) Yes, which is why glass is used typically.
2.) No, just make sure not to heat it up or cool it down rapidly. If you allow it to heat from naturally (don't shoot it with a heat gun) and don't put it under cold water right after printing, it won't be an issue. I'd recommend using slightly thicker glass though, about 6mm or larger.
3.) Could work, I personally prefer glass and use it on all of my printers. It's great because the prints self release once they cool off, it gives a perfectly flat print surface, and gives a great surface finish.

Thank you for your replay , but can I ask you how you fix the glass to the printer?
I would like to use a silicon heater for better performance and I don't know how to fix all this stuff to the printer.
I am thinking to use aluminum bed with 4 holes for fix it then . silicone heater and then glass, is it sound plausible?

Yeah, that would work.

So from bottom to top, silicone heater, aluminum plate, glass.

Use binder clips to clamp the glass to the aluminum.

I'll go for it , I'll try a chep chinese aluminium bed first , maybe I will not need a perfect flat one using a glass over it.
Thank you

Oct 13, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016

is this motor suitable for this printer ? It seems very strong.

Also can someone suggest me a good extruder? Bowden or direct?

6.5Kg.cm looks good so far but watch out the shipping! it makes twice the price.

I am thinking about using this motors only for x and Y , I have to find a cheaper shipping option :-)

Oct 13, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016
1sPiRe - in reply to claustro

personnaly i ordered those ones:

I receive them today so i can't tell you if they do the 100% job, but they should. Shipping was free, fast, and really well packaged. They have 1m cable w/ dupont jumper (and looks bloody great all black).

I bookmarked those motors also , but am I quite frighten about the amperage , 2A seems a lot for the driver DRV8825 dont'you?

I don't think so, I never tried any coreXY neither V-slot system so far, so I don't know how much torque it needs...I'm going to try w/ A4988 drivers that i already have, and if i'm losing some steps i'll go for DRV8825.

I just see that vicious is using the same motors for his mpcnc w/ DRV8825. So if it works for a CNC it should works for a 3Dprinter without any issues.

Comments deleted.

I'm just checking while the last parts are printing here- I know the BOM talks about square nuts because they are cheaper, but I actually have a large number of OpenBuilds T-Nuts already, the M5 style that fit the V-Slots. It's still possible to build this using those, right?

Also, does anyone have a recommendation for either an aluminum piece or some decently thick Borosilicate glass at 8x12? The glass I got from the only supplier I've found was pretty easy to bend/warp and i'd like something more rigid.

Yes, but I had a little bit of trouble getting some of those nuts to work with 10mm screw length and had to use 12mm screw in a few places or skip washers. I also bought some of the hammer chinese nuts. They are nice because they can be added after assembly because they fit in between the rails without disassembling things.

Can you please tell me how much plastic do you use for the functional parts? That is minus electronic covers.
This is important if we have to order the parts over at 3dhubs, so we can get an idea how much would the printing service cost.


I used a bit more than 1 KG PETG, but I had some failed prints aswell.

I personally used about 1.5 kg, but it also depends on the type of plastic and the settings

Oct 12, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016

Do you need to be using fiberglass insulation sleeving for the heated beds thermistor legs? or will heat shrink work considering there is a cork board in the way?

Hi all I am really can't decide which stepper motor to but , tooooo many models.
I am planning to make a 300x300 version, can someone suggest me some a good nema 17 for this setup

Doesn't really matter that much. Most any steppers you get will work. I'd suggest getting some NEMA 17s with a high holding torque because they don't cost much more than the "regular" ones.

They'll be a bit heavier, but that doesn't matter as they're all stationary. The ones I'm using have a holding torque of 88oz.in and they have no issues at all.

I already have 17HS4401S nema steppers. They will be strongh enought ?
Or do you think that i should buy new ones ?
Thx !! :)

52 oz will be ok, but recommend the 70 oz models as listed in the assembly sheet. Depends how much you want to push the speeds, and if you are staying boden or going direct extruder or even dual extruder. Adding more mass to the center X beam carriage, will require additional torque to handle the speeds.

Ok ! Mine are 65oz, it should be ok so ':) here is the link

Thx for your help. Now i need a mit saw :p

Comments deleted.
Oct 11, 2016 - Modified Oct 11, 2016
claustro - in reply to Buket0chicken

thank you very much for your replay, I friend of mine suggested this one , but it seems to me too high rated at 2,1 ampere for phase with a DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver even with hot sink.
Can you link me the one you are using?

I would like to increase a little the printable area but I can't understand exactly what to put in the calculator for a obtaining determinate printing area
If I want a 350 x 300 x 300 effective printing area what I have to write?

Heated Bed Width (hole to hole) 350
Heated Bed Length (hole to hole) 300
Lead Screw Length 300
Is this correct ?



I'm not quite sure what calculator you're talking about. Towards the end of the build guide are the sizes of the rails needed for a 300x300 bed. Just increase the left-to-right horizontal rails by 50mm from those dimensions. It looks like you meant to include a link or two, but nothing shows up.

These are the steppers I used https://amzn.com/B00QEYADRQ

You stepper drivers should be fine. Assuming you're using a RAMPs board, you'll need constant cooling on the board anyways.

My printer is modified from the original, but all of the components needed for the standard build are listed in the BOM. Not sure what size lead screws are used there - probably 400mm.

thank you very much for your help !

Comments deleted.

The link for the "2.54mm Connector kit" listed in the BOM is no longer working and I'm not sure what parts were included in that kit. Can someone please assist me in finding an alternate part to order?

The "2.54mm Connector Kit" is for the female header pins that plug into the Ramps 1.4 board. You'll need them for things like the heat bed and extruder thermistor connections.

The BOM links to something like this:

BUT... any standard 'Dupont' style (2.54mm / 0.1inch) connectors will work... Servo Connectors, breadboard jumper cables... etc.

Perfect! I found that exact same kit last night and added it to my cart just didn't order it yet. Nice to get confirmation that is what I need.

i upgraded the Stepper Sticks to the DRV8825. Prints are half size to scale. Do I need to get into the Config-H and change the stepper settings?

Oct 9, 2016 - Modified Oct 9, 2016
gogomaker - in reply to fpinczuk

yea if you didn't change the jumpers, the new drivers will be using 1/32 microsteps vs 1/16 with the other one. You'll need to double the steps/unit in the firmware.....this is in there under "DEFAUL_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT"

Thank you,

Did that and it worked for most of the steppers. Need to come up with the math on the the E0 stepper, simply because I added a Titan Geared Drive assembly. E3D website claims a 3:1 reduction, so I am assuming if I take the E0 value and X2 (from 1/16 to 1/31) then X3 for the drive reduction. That should get me close to the actual stepper value to use in Marlin. Tks

Oct 10, 2016 - Modified Oct 10, 2016
TheLost - in reply to fpinczuk

From the E3D Titan Wiki..

Steps per Unit (Extruder) = Motor Steps Micro-stepping Gear Ratio / (Hobb Diameter * Pi)
200 x 32 x 3 / (7.3 x 3.142) = 837

So.. 837 is what you need in your config.

Just a FYI... I am loving the Titan on my D-Bot!

thank you, what kind of part cooling fan solution did you go with? I am looking to build a second titan head and install it on the opposite side of the beam. Making a dual extruder setup.

I just use the stock '1-Part_Cooling_Fan_Duct'.. however i bumped up my cooling fan to a 40mm x 20mm (vs. the suggested 40x10mm fan)

Thank you for this wonderful design. I will make a remix 40 x 40 x 40. I would like to ask you if it possible for a dual extruder with single hot end, like the new Prusa multiplex?


MrBlom - in reply to Kldz
3Dator Y-piece for dual extrusion with one nozzle
by 3Dator

Hi there!

Is there a group about the D-bot? If yes i can't find it. If no, then it would be a usefull way to centralize and to compartment infos, things, links and advices.
To be honest I planned to build one and have some questions that should have been asked dozens of times and it's a long job to find answers through 1600+ comments...

Amazing impressive work (from you and cfeniak ofc) and documentations! I'm realy excited to start the build. Thank you for sharing such thing!

I also need to know how many cable chain links to print. Where can I get the files for the split loom cable clips?

24 links + 2 ends for the cable chain.

The loom clips are listed under the optional components list along with the cable chain.

Has anybody tried down-sizing? I doubt it's really worth it cost-wise, since the extrusion isnt even close to the most expensive part of the build, but has anyone tried it? Would it work to have something like a 100 x 200 bed instead of 200 x 300?

Oct 6, 2016 - Modified Oct 6, 2016

FYI for everyone: I ordered some of my hardware from Mr. Metric and some from Nutty to save money. I think for all of the bolts and most nuts there is no effective difference but there are two things to note: All the 10mm M5 bolts from Nutty are soaked in machine oil so I have to towel down each one prior to using it. Second and most importantly: Nutty's M5 square nuts do not fit in the V-slot slots. Not by force and not at all. So I've now put in a new order for square nuts from Mr. Metric and hopefully they will work fine. This was an unpleasant surprise. So take home message: don't order from Nutty. Their packaging was also awful compared to Mr. Metric. Meh.

I ordered most of the metric hardware from Mr Metric for my first build, but have found that Bolt Depot is typically less expensive and has better packaging. No oil soaked screws in a bag. Usually they are in a small box. I'm using Bolt Depot almost exclusively for my subsequent builds.
I also abandoned the square nuts and went with twist lock hammer nuts. The got tired of the square nuts jamming and damaging the extrusions. I found a very good price on M5 twist lock hammerhead t-nuts on AliExpress and I've ordered enough for several more builds.
All of my parts were redesigned to allow clearance for the hammer t-nuts without bottoming. Assembly is much easier with the twist lock t-nuts.

Oct 23, 2016 - Modified Oct 24, 2016
printingSome - in reply to KDan

Thanks a lot for the tip! I also got very frustrated with the DIN562 square nuts, same thing, ordered those hammerheads and I am now replacing all the square ones I already had mounted.

When I see the problems also others have with the square ones: is there perhaps a bit more deviation in those things than expected for use in these profiles?
Measuring a couple: 7.92mm square with a thickness of about 2.50mm + 0.08mm, rvs. Officially: 8.0mm - 2.7mm.
Until now I haven't seen any bottoming problems.
Just enjoying to be able to slip the premounted nuts in or let the bolt seek the nut without having to lift the nut in all sorts of devious ways. ;-)
Edit: I see that the hammerhead-advice was given earlier. Well, thanks to everyone!

Oct 24, 2016 - Modified Oct 24, 2016
KDan - in reply to printingSome

Just keep a close eye on them when tightening. Those T-nuts definitely have some variance and it's not always easy to tell if they have bottomed out when they are in a place where you can't seem them.
Another problem is that you can't always tell if they engaged. I solved that problem by putting a little dab of
https://www.vibra-tite.com/products/threadlockers/vibra-tite-vc-3-threadmate on each screw and letting it cure before screwing them into the T-nuts. It's also great to keep screws from loosening over hundreds of hours of printing (they will).

I really need to post those modified parts for people who might want to use T-nuts. I'll try to get to that this week.

I was so lucky to misunderstand the "bottoming out", thought it was about the bolts, so I started measuring how much thread I had left, minus the thickness of the material, whilst replacing the square nuts after my last reply and indeed found that in some places the bolts had bottomed out, especially with countersunk mounting locations.
I found some spring washers for M5 with an outer dia of 8mm, so that took care of that. ;-)

Now I know better I'll have to have a serious look at the hammerheads themselves too. Removing a bit of material around the holes in the raised channels should do the trick, if I understand the problem now correctly. A bit late, but never too late, I console myself. ;-)
Thanks for the vc-3 tip, you sure are right about that loosening effect of all that vibrating.

Yes, it's not about the bolts or their length, but adding washers won't help.
The problem is that the base of the Hammer T-nuts protrudes enough to cause them to bottom out on the raised channel that is designed into many of the printed parts. This can prevent them from being tightened far enough to actually clamp onto the extrusion. They will "feel" tight, but they actually may not be. This is why all of the parts with the raised channels that fit into the V-slot need to be modified.

Take a look at my Raspberry Pi case that I use on my printer. Notice the bottom of the mounting brackets at the point where they attach to the extrusion. This is what I had to do to all of the parts to ensure that Hammer T-nuts would work reliably.

Raspberry Pi 7" touchscreen case and mounting
by KDan

Understood, thanks!
Still, the washers-thing was about the bolts, for instance with the countersunk locations on the motormounts the bolts ended up against the bottom of the profile, so there it is also better to fill some room under the head.

Hi Kdan, is inopportune ask you if are willing to share your modded parts?

I intend to do that when I get a chance to organize everything. Right now I'm tied up working on the Raspberry Pi 3/ Repetier Server front-end.

I am just starting to print the parts on my Prusa I3. I have a couple of questions. I am building 2 of these. One 200x300 for a co-worker and a 300x300 for myself. Are all of the dimensions in the build guide usable on the 300x300? If not does anyone have the different dimensions? Specifically the placement of the zmotors and the bed attachments. Thanks for the great printer spauda01. I am looking forward to this project

you have to extend the frame. Cutting advice for 300x300 is on the end of the assembly PDF

Thanks for the reply themaxx2k. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I am aware of the cutting advice in the appendix. I am actually looking for the dimensions used to position the z motors and the other dimensions that are in the guide for building the 200x300 size. Specifically pages 21 and 24 of the build guide. I know that the appendix says to move the z axis towards the center of gravity of bed. Would like to know if there are more specific spacing that I can actually measure out during assembly

Comments deleted.
Oct 1, 2016 - Modified Oct 1, 2016

I'm printing parts now, I'd like to build a 300x300 but finding a bed that large seems to require a custom metal piece. How ward would it be to build with 300x200, get a feel for the machine and then upgrade later? I've found 12x12x.25 6061Al online, is that too heavy gauge?

If you build your frame originally to fit the larger build plate, it would only be a matter of swapping bed, and changing a few setting in your firmware. Solid 300x300 bed here: http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/heat-beds/12-x-12-heat-bed.html

Did you need a separate power supply for this or will just one work? What is your max bed temp that can be reached? Thanks.

Sep 30, 2016 - Modified Oct 5, 2016

Hi people.

Has anyone using the BLTouch on this printer?
I've tried for days to get it to work, with no luck in Marlin that's posted here by Dave.
I have tried WinMerge but no luck there as well. I really need to get the BLTouch working.


edit=I got it working :)

Please share what you did to get it to work. Thanks.

I've got the G28 working great. But when I do a G29 it doesn't do what I need it to do.
It's most likely a setting. Maybe we could help each other?

Here is my Config.h file https://www.dropbox.com/s/rc5kneonmoxogzq/Configuration.h?dl=0

Please lets me know how you get on :)

Hello, I want to install a rail kit on this printer, what the length I need?
2x300mm and 3x400?

I'm the the final stages of building my printer. However, I'm experiencing an ugly noise that comes from the z-axis motors when trying to home any axis from pronterface. The z-axis motors also spin a step or 2 when emitting the noise. The motors act as if the jumpers under the drivers are not installed although they are. I don't see how homing the x-axis could prompt Marlin to move the z-axis when manual control of axes works correctly. I'm running Marlin 1.6.9 on the ramps 1.4.

Any help is much appreciated.

Where can I find the dimensions for the from carriage hole pattern? I'm looking to build a custom front carriage, but I need to know how far apart the holes for the mini v wheels are.

Oct 1, 2016 - Modified Oct 26, 2016
KDan - in reply to Noah410

If you can open STEP or SLDPRT files, you can go back to the C-Bot files on Openbuilds and work from them. Go to
and click on Files and Drawings. There are some 123 Design files in there too.

I've remodeled and redesigned many of the parts in DesignSpark Mechanical and SpaceClaim, but haven't published anything because I really need to cleanup and document my revision tree. Plus, I'm still modifying and tweaking things and have other major changes in the works.

The x-axis carriage is one of the things I redesigned on my machine also. Mine was designed around a single 2020 extrusion to reduce moving mass. You can see a few videos here...
and here..

Is there a particular reason for the heated bed relay? I purchased this one for my build and it seems like it should be fine running directly from ramps right? Please and thanks for the help.


it draws about 9.3A, so it would be fine for RAMPS, however, the quality of the MOSFET on chinese RAMPS is poor, so imho you should use a DC DC SSR (25A rated).

If you don't know enough to determine if a component is necessary or not then I recommend not skipping any parts.

I was simply inquiring into whether or not it would be necessary for the bed I purchased. The bed listed in your build parts list is a dual power heatbed, therefore I was wondering if that was why you felt the need to utilize the relay. Also, at two different points in your instruction manual you talk about two different relays, in the list you link to the uxcell ssr-40dd and state "Don't confuse with the SS AC relay, they look similar, read the label" but then in the build guide you state - Use an AC SSR, not a DC SSR, they look very similar." hence my confusion. Is the relay there to provide protection to the ramps board ?

You are using a 200x300 12v heatbed just like me, im not using dual power. The build guide appendix is a separate section which states that it is for an AC heat bed

Is anyone else having problems with pg 25 figure 22 of the build guide? My M5 bolts don't fit through the 3D printed parts in this section!

It can be tight depending on your printer tolerance, they basically thread into hte plastic which gives it a good hold anyway

Everytime I try and thread them through the printed parts they crack and break. Could M4 bolts be used instead of M5?

I would recommend drilling out holes that are too small. Those axles probably need to be m5 to work properly

Sep 25, 2016 - Modified Sep 25, 2016

For those that are not as good as Spauda in hiding their cables and having their build look like an absolute diy job - there is always the option of making side panels out of perspex :-)

Step 1, build this amazing D-Bot.
Step 2, order parts from vicious for the MPCNC machine
Step 3, print parts for the MPCNC on your D-Bot and build the MPCNC.
Step 4, design panels for your D-Bot.
Step 5, cut your custom designed panels on the MPCNC
Step 6, mount panels and gone are those cables :-)


D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

MPCNC rocks. Was my last project. 85% completed. Already milling. Btw how to hide my cables on mpcnc? Anything to print on my upcoming D-Bot? Lol

The MPCNC does ROCK ! :-)
This was the only thing I designed for helping a bit on the MPCNC for the cables :-) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1295687

International 25mm End Cap

Is it possible to build this using 8020 instead of v-slots?

If this is something you really want to do, PM me. I have done some work toward this goal.

No, not as designed. The whole printer is based on Vslot rails and Vslot wheels

Looking for a source of a 300 x 300 mm build plate (12 x 12 inches). I've found plenty of heater solutions. Just need the build plate. Thanks

MidWest Steel and Aluminum..

Cast Aluminum Tool & Jig Plate (ATP5).

Cover it with PEI and you'll have an amazing build plate..

I had a pretty bad experience with MidWest.. Paid more for shipping than I paid for the plate. After 2 weeks I had to call them and they said they hadn't gotten around to the order yet, and took 2 more calls and another week to get them to ship it. The price is right, but the service is downright horrible.

MIC-6 aluminum + PrintBite is the best build plate setup I know of. Perfectly flat, sticks like crazy when heated, then just slides off when it cools down.


I might have to look into that. I'm currently using 7/32" float glass. I need something stiff (which is why I went with the heavier glass. 1/8" glass didn't have the needed stiffness. When I clamped it to my Mk2a PCB 300mm x 300mm heatbed (which are all somewhat buckled), it was pulling the 1/8" glass out of shape. The 7/32" plate is hardly affected.
I really like printing on glass myself, but the large 7/32" glass plate is heavy and the heat transfer is not good. The area where the layer cooling fan blows is significantly cooled because of this. I can see the effect very clearly with my thermal camera.

Thanks, KDan. This comment of you on that glass problem convinced me to try and go for the printbite-on-a-really-flat-alu-plate, expensive as this combination may be.

Thank you, great find.

100% correct, works like a charm.

Has anyone remixed this for direct extrusion? I would like to salvage as much as possible from my old printer, which sucks due to rigidity.

Sep 22, 2016 - Modified Sep 22, 2016
spiffcow - in reply to zggtf211

Just use the C-Bot direct drive carriage.. That's your easiest option.

I am building that exact setup. Design is solid so far, and fits like a glove. Looking to mirror the mount on the back plate and have dual extruder.

Sep 21, 2016 - Modified Sep 21, 2016

Can anyone tell me what version of Marlin the D-Bot is using?
The one in the zip file that is?

Just a theoretical question: Is there a reason to not put the extruder ontop the hotend (its called direct drive, isnt it)? Would it be to heavy for quick/precice movements or is it just Personal flavour?

Sep 20, 2016 - Modified Sep 20, 2016
ThePhilStrongProject - in reply to bhorn

Mostly personal flavour - I've been running a bowden setup (extruder mounted remotely) since I build mine, but I'm currently printing the bits to mount an E3D Titan on there to improve my retraction ability (and print reliability - but this is an issue with my hot end, not bowden in particular).

As a rule of thumb, bowden is lighter and faster, direct feed generally allows for better quality. Direct also allows you to print flexible filaments.

It probably just a rookie question but I have to ask. So there is no problem if bed is supported on just one side? Because the Z axis threaded rods are in the middle?

There are 2 z-axis steppers and threaded rods. They are positioned at the center of gravity on the cantilevered bed. However, some of us are building the J-bot derivative that supports the gantry on both ends. There are pros and cons to both setups.

What is the downside if the bed is supported on both sides? Can you elaborate a bit more on pros and cons of both setups please.

You get front/rear wobble if they're on the sides, and left/right wobble if you use the front/back scheme. Best choice is to use 3 leadscrew option.

Anybody have success printing sainsmart flexible filament or other types of flexible filament? Wondering if settings can be shared.

I spent a few days trying to [rint PERG and that took forever. I had to add a tiny bit of extra tubing right after the extruder or else it would buckle and had to slow everything down a ton, especially solid infill speed.

Your best bet for any flexible filament is a direct drive extruder... Bowden setups and soft/flexible filaments don't mix.

I just thought i could share some of my options regarding this amazing build Spauda01 provided us. Here are the changes i made on some of the stuff i bought.

Wantai 0.9" high torque Nema17 motors
E3D VariPower Heated bed
E3D Volcano
Duet Wifi
P100 Thermistor board
Ir probe
Panel Due with a 7" touch screen
RatRig V-slot black anodized extrusions
Assembled ABS Mini V-wheels (might change to heavy duty delrin/PC later)
all running on a 24V 600W psu

Most of the components can be sourced from Bangood for an amazing price. the shipping from them is rather fast and at least for europe, they manage to avoid customs, which saves you ALOT of money.

Just waiting now for everything to arrive, while i print the rest of the parts :)

Cheers and thanks for everything!

Any guides on getting the touch screen working with marlin and RAMPs?


Scroll down to the end where David talks about connecting the panelDue to other 3d electronics :)
The requirements are not that demanding imho !

I love it! Very clean design. What adhesive did you use to glue the cork underneath the heat bed?

jb weld epoxy

Thank you for the info. I checked It can withstand temperatures up to 550ºF ~ 288°C when fully cured so no problem there.

I'm on my phone and the comments take too long to load to search if this question was asked but I have a cheap 3D printer which never came on, but the stepper motors do work so can I use those on the ramps 1.4? I ask because the hook up is square not rectangle 2.54 4pin like I have

Comments deleted.

What size are the screws used for the power supply clamp that holds the power supply against rail?

The ones I am using are M4 threads that are 35mm in length. The size might depend on the power supply you are using however. These screws fit tightly in the plastic clamp pieces and protrude from the end by about 5mm when fully inserted.

Board Questions

Can I Use this Board: Currently on my Anet A8 Want to use to start then upgrade to this.

Upgrade Board:

Or should i get the ramps???

Looking for something complete with sd and good quality with touch lcd support

Anyone here from Canada and want to get together for buying parts? I've been screwed over ordering parts for this already. I don't want to take up space here but please message me so we can order together in Canada. Thanks.... [email protected]

Hey pkarza,

I've just finished building my d-bot. I'm just outside of Toronto. You can find most these parts or substitutes for them at places like "Sayal" and "Fastenal". The hot end,heated bed, v-slot and stepper motors are pretty much the only things I purchased online. Sayal actually carries a small selection of 3D printer stuff like filament, fans etc. You can also purchase your arduino here but not the ramps.

The creator of the Cbot is up north, he might have a few good sourcing ideas.

Guys, would these V-slot wheels work with the standard build? http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-FlatV-Type-Plastic-Pulley-Concave-Idler-Gear-p-1038551.html the feedback has been great and the spacer/bearings are included.
Any ideas? Cheers and Spauda01, congrats for your work and contributions!

The smaller ones look right, compare the dimensions to the openbuilds mini wheels

They are exactly the same dimensions! i will try them out. As a package, they're quite cheap as they include the bearings and spacer. i will assume these will be a direct replacement for the V-wheel assembly section, am i right? :P

Cheers and thanks for the help!

Sep 8, 2016 - Modified Sep 8, 2016

Hi, do you have a actually D-BOT Firmware Version with Marlin 1.1.0-RC7?

Sep 8, 2016 - Modified Sep 8, 2016

I used Cbot onlineCalc 300 Width 200 Length and lead 500
Still a bit confused about lead screws is it the correct size 500?

And could you please tell me if it is correct do i have all this correct


If i wanted to go to 300 x 300 lead same size?

Cbot and Dbot are two different printers. Everything you need to build a Dbot just like the one in the pictures is on the thing files page

I am in need of advice. I finally turned everything on and it's all looking good except for the Z steppers. They are not smooth at all and they only go down regardless of the direction I send them. The jumpers are all set and the drivers are at .55 volts. Any help is appreciated.

Make sure hey are plugged into the ramps board correctly and that the pins are set well. I was having this problem and it was my poor clamping of the stepper motor wires.

Havent bought one yet. Just saw mention of both. With the dc-ac relay should be able to to run an ac bed to the dc power supply through the relay right?

Is the ssr relay for the heated bed supposed to be a dc-dc relay or a dcac relay?

Do you have an ac or dc bed

Has anyone found an alternate source for the bed and extruder springs? The Home Depot link in the BOM as I last saw it does not appear to work anymore

Where is the build guide?

Found the BOM File now your version no tnuts correct


Hi All,
I am at a loss and need some help. I am completing my build (started in April :P) and have loosely hooked everything up and the only thing I can get to work is the heated bed. It seems that I am not getting any voltage out of D9 and D10 when activating fan or extruder heater and none of the steppers move either. I have been working mainly on the extruder heater and not trouble shot the steppers quite yet but I imaging it is related. I have built printers and am a little familiar with the RAMPS 1.4 board but still a novice.
I have swapped the ramps+mega boards and also the power supply with the exact same issues. I must be missing something but 3 days of redoing wiring and google have me back at square one. Suggestions are welcome. I am thinking maybe a firmware thing.?

I should note... 12v verified on the 5a and 11a inputs with both boards and both power supplies. Also, also...the only LED I ever see go active is the USB activity and the heated bed LED.


There are two polyfuses on the two inputs, 5a and 11a. The 5a fuse could be bad. Can you measure resistance across each fuse?

Hi spauda01, Thank you for all the work you put into this printer. I can only imagine how much time you dedicated to this. It is truly appreciated!

If I am measuring correctly, I am getting .2 - .3 on all of the polyfuses on both boards. Pretty much the same reading I get when measuring the probes against each other. I am using an Innova 3320 meter. Measured both from the solder joints and wire leads. Does this tell me anything?


What voltage do you read across the diode next to the fuses?

anode to cathode I get about .500 on both RAMPS boards. Reversed I get O.L


oops, I did a diode function reading... I'll check volts. Test volts with an open or closed circuit? Sorry for my ignorance...

Thanks for taking the time to help me out!