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G&C Printer - corexy

by fjsdc, published

G&C Printer - corexy by fjsdc Sep 7, 2015
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Summary

The name of the printer is G&C Printer from Good & Cheap Printer.
My goal was to design an printer that was good print quality and was cheap.
The printer use the next corexy mechanism: https://github.com/jand1122/RepRap-XY

specifications of the printer:
All structure is made of aluminium, super rigid, each side was 4 2020 bars.
Z axis all aluminium for rigidity and precision.
Easy to transport.
Support bowden, direct extruder or two direct extruders.
All electronics and core xy mechanism are hidden and protected with printed panels or acrylic panels.
Total Volume: 40x40x52cm
Real print volume: 20x20x27cm
Use 6 endstop, two for each axis.
Hotend E3D v6 little, hotbed up to 110ºC
Ramp 1.4, mega 256, 1/32 steppers, big LCD with SD card support

I have added extras that are not included in the BOM file:
Light LED
Button on/off with green light
two filament support with bearings and M8 screw
passive colling for the x,y
second E3D V6 little hotend, second hotend stepper motor and two aluminium mk8
two print cooling fan
white acrylic panels
8´ windows tablet
replaced ramps with radds 1.5, 5 x 1/128 steppers and 20x4 radds lcd

Uploads:
I have upload the 3d project where you can get all the necessary printed parts (123dx format). To get the parts to be printed, download for free the software http://www.123dapp.com/design, open the project g&c_core.123dx, select the part you want and export in stl format.
The bom file contains all the necessary hardware and the link where you can buy.
Uploaded the last firmware marlin (1.1.0) and repetier already configured for this printer. Note: the menu are in Portuguese, you can easy modify this.
Uploaded T-nuts printed to fix the printed panels to the printer, do not use this printed t-nut to fix the main structure.

I have used and modified several parts that are not my original design, but if you have the intention to build this printer use the parts of my upload because a lot of parts was modifications.

I have already finish to build this printer and it can easy print at 100mm/s without any lost of quality.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyqR3CrevLY

[14-09-2015] some update information of my tests.
The printer use bowden extruder (mk8) with hotend E3D v6 little. The ptfe tube goes from the extruder to the end of the hotend. Already have put more than 60h of printing PLA and never have any jam. But, is necessary to configure the retractions in slider correctly or else i have lot of blobs and tiny filaments. After lot of testing i found that the next configuration work well: retraction 5mm at speed 50mm/s.
At very low speed and speed superior to 80mm/s the printer have vibrations and noise in the carriage. After some investigation i found the problem is related with the lm8uu bearings, they are not tight enough/precise. To try to solve this problem i have ordered igus linear bearing, when i receive i will put the result and an video.

[23-09-2015] I have replaced the LM8UU with the igus bearing and installed 2 dampers in the x, y axis. Was result the vibration are totally gone and the noise of the carriage movement is almost none. The damper and igus bearing do not increase the print quality, but remove almost all the noise/vibrations made by the corexy movements.

[Advice] Some persons reported the igus bearings can be very problematic because they are all made of plastic and the case is plastic too. Overall the igus and plastic case are soft and can be very difficult to install. The LM8UU are metal and a lot more forgiving and easy to install.

Another problem, printing more complex object the hotend was micro stops and irregular movement, i found the problems is caused because i using a board ramps 1.4 with full graphic lcd. Simple print with not many vortex this problem do not happens. To solve temporary this i have disconnected the lcd and use octoprint to control the printer. The arduino mega do not have the computation power to move the corexy printer correctly with the full graphic lcd, using an simple 20x4 lcd the problem do not happens.
An good solution is to built the printer without lcd or with an 4x20 lcd.
Was a better solution is to use an 32 board; arduino due + radds, duet, smoothieboard, etc...

[25-09-2015] An arduino due and radds 1.5 board ordered, when i have this 32 bit board installed i will post the result.
updated boom file with upgrades information i have made.

[28-09-2015] Added list of screws and nuts need for the corexy mechanism in the bom file.
Corrected dimension of one piece that secure the Z screw at the bottom of the printer.

[29-09-2015] updated bom file, added info of missing 608zz and M4 washers

[03-10-2015] Added an direct mk8 extruder 1.75 mm in the 3d project and some missing information about the right idler. updated bom file.

[04-10-2015] Modified the direct extruder to be attached to the carriage with 4 x M3 25mm and 4 x M3 screws. There is no more need of using glue and the extruder can be rotated in different positions. Added better belt holders (they are in purple color in the file g&c_core.123dx).

[06-10-2015] Added hair spray holder to put in the 2020 extrusion. It can be used to put some tools.

[08-10-2015] Corrected errors and added more util info in the bom file.

[11-10-2015] Redesign of the Z axis, the Z motor was moved from the top to the bottom of the printer. Vantages of this change: necessary less cables for the z motor, motor is hidden and protected, better support of the bed structure, less vibrations and removed one printed pla piece used to remove the vibrations.
Updated bom file: removed one 608 bearing that is not more need with the new Z axis.
New Z axis homing test and fast moving: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ybw2uwPLdk4
Thank you David for your help.

[12-10-2015] updated bom file with information of the screws and nuts used for the Z axis.

[15-10-2015] modified the piece that connect the z screw to the bed, removed the 2 upper holes. Uploaded the repetier firmware for radds board and arduino due.

[28-10-2015] Added repetier firmware configured to use 1/128 steppers and radds lcd.
Put more 40h of printing using the 32 bit board radds 1.5 (used repetier and reprapFirmware), and all the problem of speed and micro pause are gone.

[30-10-2015] Added printed arm that secure an cheap windows 10 tablet. The tablet allow to make the sliding, controls the print process in real time. Added an new panel that allow to use an radds lcd 20x4.
tablet used: http://www.gearbest.com/tablet-pcs/pp_219480.html?vip=63969

[07-12-2015] changed the fan to cool the print:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1178809

[03-01-2016] Added project that support two hotend (E3D v6 or E3D v6 little) on the same carriage. The new carriage is on the file "two hotend.123dx". The carriage will be heavy, but still manage to print up to 80mm/s without any problems. The yellow parts (mk8 extruder) are not printed, there are all aluminium mk8 extruders. You can buy the same model on ebay for 6/7€ each: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-MK8-Extruder-Aluminum-Frame-Block-Steady-Frame-DIY-Kits-Reprapi3-GBNG-/151852501716
There are 2 different type of mk8, "right hand" and "left hand". The project use one left and one right.

[06-03-2016] Added white acrylic panels to all side. all panels are in the file "acrylic panels.zip"

Instructions

Consult the 3d project where you can find all the parts and how they are put together.

marlin.zip: marlin firmware with full graphic LCD and 1/16 steppers.

two hotend.123dx: project that contains an dual hotend version.

Repetier.zip: Repetier firmware with full graphic LCD, 1/16 steppers.

Repetier_NoLcd_32steppers.zip: repetier firmware with lcd disconnected and SD card active. using 1/32 steppers. The version was a lot of little upgrade, use this one was base.

Repetier_radds_128_LCD20x4.zip: repetier firmware with radds+ arduino due, lcd radds 20x4, external sd card, 1/128 steppers, watch dog active.

Repetier_due.zip: Repetier firmware with radds + arduino due, 1/32 steppers, no lcd, internal micro SD, watch dog active.

Support for an radds board + arduino due:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832353

Arm to add an tablet:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:731012

print fan:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1178809

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Hi

The 3D project is no longer available on http://www.123dapp.com/design. Is it available anywhere else?

Hi i am currently thinking of doing a project like this for school but i have no clue of what codeing i should use. Do u have a folder full of your codeing used to run it and program it?

there no coding to do, only is necessary to configure the firmware and slider.

Does anyone know of a U.S. distributor for Aluminum profile accessories? I'm trying to track down the 2040 L brackets and connector plates.

Thanks, I was able to find the flat joining plates on there, but was not able to locate the L brackets similar to these:

http://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot-profiles-accessories/Accessoiries-20-I-Typ-slot-5/Bracket-Alu-elox-width-20x40::99999575.html

These are the closest I was able to find online, but they have tabs:

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1fybsLXXXXXboXFXXq6xXFXXXN/2040-corner-font-b-bracket-b-font-right-font-b-angle-b-font-connection-90-degrees.jpg

Other joints can be substituted for most of the corners, but the 2 L brackets underneath the build plate mount look like they require specifically 2040 L brackets. Will getting 2040 with tabs interfere with Z clearance?

Are there any improvements that you made from the project like it is shown here?
E.g. I saw that you replaced the tablet with a Raspberry Pi 3 with OctoPi, what is my favorite too.

What else did you optimize? Is the mechanic-part still the same?

Hi,

There is many upgrades done on this printer and the raspberry was only a very small upgrade.

there is a new version of the g&c where the x, y and z axis was upgraded, you can get the information necessary where:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1686741

G&C All Metal
by fjsdc

What tablet and software did you use?

Jan 19, 2017 - Modified Jan 19, 2017

very professional design, the price on the BOM is attractive too.
just wanted a printer with few parts to print, there is only 7 if i understand well... ( i tryed to see the cost with "order this printed" but it failled)

the cost with "order this printed" ??
I do not have understand...

On the boom file is used a ramps 1.4, o sugest replace with a 32bit board.

on the right of your pics I see "Thing Apps Enabled" then "order this printed". I think you can have a quote from 3dhub with all printed parts needed in a project. (but it didn't work for me)

What thickness of acrylic panels did you use?

Hi Filipe,
First - very nice printer, good job! :)
I would like to ask you, how you've fixed charging + otg mode together on pictured tablet?
It have separately standard size usb port and power connector?
I see there one cable only, that is why my question.
What tablet are you using exactly? I'm using mine without power cord connected, because it doesn't support charging and otg together, but I like to found any other solution.
Thank you for your reply.
Jiri

you need to buy a cable that allow charging and otg at the same time.

Ok, thank you. Are you using this kind of cable?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Micro-USB-2-0-OTG-Host-Flash-Disk-Cable-with-Micro-Power-for-Galaxy-Note3-S3/32314273937.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.AfHFp8

What tablet are you using, please?

Thank you for information

Dec 7, 2016 - Modified Dec 7, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to jmysicka

tablet: http://www.gearbest.com/tablet-pcs/pp_219480.html?vip=63969
charger: http://www.banggood.com/4-Port-Micro-USB-OTG-Charger-HUB-Cable-For-Tablet-Phone-p-975460.html

But overall is was a solution that works but with problems.
Some of the problems:
-the cable sometime disconnect because the connection micro usb was weak.
-the cable do not was the power to charge and have the tablet screen always on.

I have used this solution somes months, but later i removed the tablet and i using a raspbery pi 3 with octoprint.

Great, thank you very much for precious information.

hey printer looing good :-) I plan to build this one, but where did you source the enclosure panels?

you can download the enclosure panel, there are in the zip file "acrylics_panels.zip".
I designed the panels specially to my printer, so you probably need to change the m4 holes.

You need a cnc to cut thems.

cool thanks, printer looks very professional

Apr 5, 2016 - Modified Apr 5, 2016

Finally got everything together. Tried my first print and started getting drift of layers after 10 layers or so. Changed firmware, set stepper delay high. The only thing I can think of is the belts might be different lengths by a few teeth. Would this cause creep? Or the layers not to stack properly?

Can you send a photo of the print with the layer problem?

Not sure how clear I was. The layers are misaligned after printing the first 10 or so. They seem to move in a 45 degree angle.

Things I'm going to check. Are belt tension and length. Would this cause it? The misallignment is very noticeable in some cases more than 5 cm displacement. The structure is rectangle. Not a square. Does this matter?

any structure problem will appears in all the layers, if the problem only happens until layer 10, then is mostly a miss step problem.

Sounds like you might be missing steps - I'd check your motor current and be sure it's set properly

I hope it's as simple as that. I can check tomorrow. Would not enough voltage cause this?

either that or too much and the stepper drivers are going into thermal shutdown

I just gave it a try. The steppers are rated at 2.8v. I had them set to 3.6 so I dropped them down to 2.8 exactly.... The first 10 layers seemed ok... Then the next 2-3 layers shifted up to the left at a 45 degree angle. If I could post pics I'd show you.

Anymore ideas? Thanks

I think I have it fixed. I lowered the jerk value to 10 from 20. I need to do more testing tomorrow.

I would also say drop your print speed to 10 or 20 mm/s - if it still shifts, that might be slow enough to see what might be happening - belt slip, missing/halting, etc. And if it DOESN'T shift, increase your print speed - if it eventually starts shifting again, then there's probably still an issue (maybe your rods aren't perfectly parallel/perpindicular and start binding at higher speeds?).

Apr 6, 2016 - Modified Apr 6, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to critter42

You need to check the voltage of the x and y steppers, 2.8v is way too much. I think is steppers are overheating, they suhdown and miss steps. what stepper you have and the board?
To configure correctly make the next actions;
-set both x, y, z steppers to 0.7v
-increase the voltage until to motor start to move correctly, without strange noises or losing stepps.

  • add more 0.1v to both motor to have a better stability.

My x, y and y are configured to use 0.9v

sorry, my mistake. I misplaced the the decimal point.... it was set to .36v and I changed it to .28v I seems to run ok, but I think I should bump it back up. Using the formula:

Vref = rated amps / 2

my steppers are 2.0A so if I want to run at 70% to play it safe it would look like this:

vref = (2.0 * .70) / 2 = 0.7v

I could probably run at 90% and set them to 0.9v as well. I'll give that a try.... thanks.

The voltage depends of the steppers you are using. My steppers are RAPS128, and they have a max of 2.2A.

but i not sure how your steppers move well at 0.36? this is a very low voltage, printing fast the motor can not have the necessary force to stop correctly to carriage without losing steps.

Mine are rated at 2.0A. Looking at everything I'm not sure how they worked at .36... I increased it to .70 and ran a job now for 5 hours without any shift at all. I think lower the jerk variable to 10 from 20 fixed it. But I'll keep and eye on it...

Thanks everyone for your help.

I'm almost ready for my first print. I've got one issue though; my y axis is homing in the wrong direction, it therefore crashes at the end of the axis unless I manually trigger the endstop or hit the emergency stop.

All my endstops are functioning correctly and my x axis is fine.

Reversing the motor directions in config.txt moves the issue from x to y.

Apologies for all the silly questions!

OK figured it out - best thing to do is reset the config back to default (so no reversed motors) then reverse or swap X and Y motor connectors until it works.

Got mine on the third iteration!

N.B. For anyone reading this in the future, make sure you power down before messing about with the motor connectors.

Do not revert the motor directions, this is not the correct way to solve the problem.

In the config.txt you need to modify the homing direction of the axis Y, try the next solution:
Search for the text "beta_homing_direction"; it allow to indicate what endstop to use to find the zero position of Y. If is was configured with home_to_min them change it to home_to_max, OR vice versa...

ps: you can check the status of all endstop with the gcode M119 (use pronterface).

I tried a home_to_max setting in Repetier and it didn't work as it was the min end stop that was triggered at the end of the axis. So the problem just became one of the head crashing at the other end.

I'll give it a go though.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to Hagbard

From what you say it appears you have your y min and y max endstop swapped. Try to change the homing direction was indicate in my last message and swap on the board the y endstop connectores. You can use the gcode m119 to check the status of each endstop.

Yep, just crashed at the other end.

Hi, firstly thank you for sharing. I would like to ask about two hotend. Can you say which .stl data for yellow parts? Especially small part? and can i use 40x40 fan for cooling again do you have .stl data?

Mar 21, 2016 - Modified Mar 21, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to sahbahtiyar

The yellow parts (mk8 extruder) are not printed, there are all aluminium mk8 extruders. You can buy the same model on ebay for 6/7€ each: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-MK8-Extruder-Aluminum-Frame-Block-Steady-Frame-DIY-Kits-Reprapi3-GBNG-/151852501716
There are 2 diferents type of mk8, "right hand" and "left hand". The project use one left and one right.

The dual mk8 direct extruder have all the files on the file "two_hotend.123dx". For were you can export any parts to the STL format. The dual mk8 project was two 30x30 fans. I have designed a version that use two 40x40 fans but i do not know where i put the file... i think i deleted, sorry..

Just thought I'd post a quick status update. I'm almost done with all the major components; frame is done, movement parts are installed, most of the electronics are hooked up. I'm having a bit of an issue with Smoothieware in that my x and y axis are the wrong way round, so x moves towards and away from the front of the machine, and y moves side-to-side. Is this normal with CoreXY? I can't see that it matters terribly as it just means things are rotated 90 degrees.

I'll try to get some photos up this weekend.

Mar 18, 2016 - Modified Mar 18, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to Hagbard

your x and y axis are not correct, try to switch the x and y motor cable connector on the smoothieboard.
Other solution is changing the motor directions of alpha, beta.

I did try switching the connectors - it made no difference. I'll try rotating the connectors 180 degrees instead.

Thanks :-)

Mar 18, 2016 - Modified Mar 18, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to Hagbard

have you try to modify your firmware to change the direction of the rotation x OR y motor?
to modify you need to add the char ! at the end of the line of the variable alpha_dir_pin and beta_dir_pin

So tried swapping connectors, reversing connectors and adding ! as described above, and nothing changes!

Very odd!

an apart: you need to revert the direction of only one of the motor. If you revert both at the same time I think you get the same result. So.. try by changing the direction of Y OR X, but not both at the same time.

Hahaha, that's it. I feel rather foolish now that I think about it!

Not yet - I'm waiting on delivery of a cable to allow me to connect the board to my PC. The one it came with is about 4 inches long, and therefore not terribly useful. I managed to do the basic setup before the board was installed into the printer, but now it's installed I'm loathe to take it out!

I've got a fair few other mods to do on the firmware also, so that process will likely start this evening.

Comments deleted.

On your 123D model, looking from the front of the printer, on the inside of the topmost piece of extrusion is a little wedge shaped 3d printed part. I've sat and puzzled over this for a while, and maybe it will become more apparent when I finally start bolting things together, but what is this part for?

Still not had a delivery of t-nuts or bearings today. Very frustrated!

I think you are asking about the led support... uploaded two new photos, one of the filament support i using and the other the led light.

Ah yes, it was the led support I was referring to, thank you. I've purchased some self adhesive 12v LED strips, so hope to use those. I've also bought some illuminated 12v switches (that look just like the green one in one of your photos) that I intend to use for the lights and fans.

So much to do, but slowly getting there!

The green switche is 220v, is cuting to power before is reach the power supply. A 12v switch will allow to cut the power of the board but the power supplu will be allays on.

My illuminated switches are 12v. I've also got a cutout switch for the mains supply that I'll wire in front of the PSU.

You'll be glad to hear that my 'emergency supply' of t-nuts arrived yesterday, so I've started bolting some of the movement parts to the frame. I'm struggling a little though as I've clearly done things in a 'sub optimal' order...which is causing me to go backwards as much as forwards!

I'm just pulling the final few parts together for my build of this - so huge thanks for all your work so far! I've got the frame bolted together and all the printed parts made. For rigidity (and based on prior bad experience of such things sagging/melting) I'm adding aluminium plates under the extruder carriage and the two mounts that hold steppers. I'm also using a Smoothieboard controller. I'm really looking forward to getting this finished, but am desperately trying to do things properly and not rush!

You seem to have changed your spool holder, what are you using now?

spool holder is a combination of 3 different things i found in thingiverse:

Hardware, you need:
-2 x M8 nut, 2 x M4 and 2 T-nut M4
-15 to 20 cm M8 thread

  • 2 x 608ZZ bearing

aluminium plates: good... the more rigid is the setup, better it is. when is finished post some photos to check your solution.
Smoothieboard controller: great board.. is a very good choise

Mount for 2020 Extrusion I-Type 5
by dintid
Spool Hub / Holder for 608ZZ bearing and 8mm rod improved
Triangular M8 nut thumb screw

Thank you. I think I'm going to use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235925 instead, as it's what I use on my current printer (heavily modified printrbot simple) and I know it works well.

Fingers crossed my t-nuts and bearings arrive tomorrow so I can continue my build!

Low friction spool holder

I built one of these spoolholders: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000323. It's a re-design of the low friction spool holder, but simplified and strengthened.

Spoolholder with mount for 2020 Extrusion I-Type 5
by dintid

I'm from the US and saw "[03-01-2016]" and thought you were updating from the future :)

Yes, i have printed an time machine.

.stl please

I have not uploaded the stl files because is more difficult to make is manutention on this web site every time something changes on the printer design.
But, you can easy have all the stl files you need.
1- download the main file gc_core.123dx
2- install the free software 123design and open the file.
3- left click of the mouse on the piece you want to print, it will appear an new bar with several icons.
4- select "export selection" and change the box "save as type" to STL file. this will create the stl file of the selected object.

No, for the time machine

Comments deleted.
Jan 31, 2016 - Modified Jan 31, 2016

good one. this machine is really neat. if i can i`ll try to make slightly bigger print area.

Sure, if you put an 30cm x 30cm bed you anly need to by 2020 extrusion 10cm bigger that is indicate in the bom file.

Plus rods longer rods :)

In September last year I graduated from a Raspberry Pi 2B with Octopi to a cheap windows tablet. I have been using mostly CURA and Repetier. I am just now trying out Matter Control. I stuck mine on a Printrbot Play. I use the Workgroup Public folder to transfer files to the tablet. I also find that Sketchup works decently on the Tablet. That lets me carry out adjustments to designs right at the printer. I prefer the Intel Atom CPU Z3537F with 2GB main memory. Both Tablets I have tried ran very well with the installed programs.

My wife found Octopi to hard to use due to the number of steps (12 to 14) it took to get a print going. The Tablet only takes four to five steps, from Thingiverse to print. Even after I had CuraEngine working she still had problems. It worked fine for me.

I am still a 3D printer novice, nowhere near ready for a dual extruder system. I like your project build!

Great printer!
I am learning your design G&C, going to build a printer with corexy. Is it possible to build this model with 1/16 steppers?

Yes. Depending of the board you use you can put any type of steppers. In my case i using 1/128 steppers.

Please answer for what in file "gc_core.123dx" green part (above the yellow and red extruder)?

the green pieces are a mk8 direct extruder.
the red and yellow are a bowden extruder.
the file two_hotend.123dx contains a dual direct extruder.

all 3 extruder setup use the exact same carriage.

Understand! Thank you!

I have printed and tested all 3 setups. First i used to bowden, but it give some print problems with the retrations. Then changed to the direct extruder, this one work like an charm. All retrations problem are gone and low fast speed prints. At last i have changed to the dual extruder using 2 mk8 cheap china aluminium extruder, this last setup allow me to print with 2 colors, but it not allow to print fast.

So you recommend direct extruder for single color? Do you have photos printed models with direct extruder (to see an example of 3d-print)?
I ordered motor, electronics and hot table. As long as they go to me, I look what else should be ordered. Still I think which printer to assemble: Your or FuseBox1.3 (its more easy to assemble and compact but are primarily interested in the quality of printing).

Jan 26, 2016 - Modified Jan 26, 2016
fjsdc - in reply to NklVtkn

If your priority is print quality then you need to go with one or two hotend version of direct extruder. the bowden extruder give lots of retrations problems that are not easy to solve. the print quality of the dual version is the same was the one hotend version, but you need to print slow at 60mm/s and 80 for the infill

photos of prints:
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:170901
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:169285
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:182183

g&c printer or fusebox? This is an easy question, simply build the printer you like more...

if you need more help the best is to use the next forum: http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?397

Yoda bust (cleaned and simplified)
by fjsdc
Owl statue
by fjsdc
Dragon's Egg Lightshade
by fjsdc

This is a very nice 3D printer, very industrial and professionally looking. I just stopped by to say Congrats!

Hi,
I started making this printer. GREAT design. But I can't see how the idler blocks and the stepper mounts attach to the frame.
Thanks

Hi,

All the printed pieces are secure to the main structure using screw M4 and T-nuts M4. The screw an t-nuts necessary are in the boom file.

Use the next forum thread to ask question and discusse this printer:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?397,551126
In the forum you will find more information about the building process. If you want i can post in the forum some photos of the part of the printer you need more information.

Excellent, thank you

hi, really like the design and wish to build one similar so your download will help alot especially with the firmware you included. just have one question where did you get the rail guids that hold the x and z rails also the things that hold the motors and the pullys at the back. if you 3d printed them is there any chance of getting a copy of the 3d files so i can look into getting them printed.

I am in the process of building a printer to this design - just about everything you'll need to know is in the 123d file. Open it up and explore the assembly drawings, and all will be clear (hopefully).

Oct 3, 2015 - Modified Oct 3, 2015
fjsdc - in reply to kenny1921

Hi,

Was i have explain in the description, all the 3d files are in an unique file called "gc_core.123dx". You must use this file to understand how each pieces are assembly and to obtain the respective STL files. The aluminium pieces are identify in the bom file. You must use the program 123d design to open this file, the software is free.

You have asked about "the rail guides that hold the x and z rails", i do not understand what is the pieces your are referring, can you explain better? About "the things that hold the motors and the pullys at the back", are you referring to the black pla pieces that are used to secure the motor x and Y?

PS: I now finishing to design and build an mk8 direct extruder for this printer, i will upload the file in the next days...

thank you for your reply, i opened up the 123dx file and have exported the specific items that i required, i assume they will be the correct dimensions for the prints. also are you using metal pullys or are they printed.

and the parts i was on about was the black parts on the left and right of the build that hold the two rails for the x axes, they contain the pullys that direct the timing belt to the hotend mount and also the parts at the back yeah that hold the motors in place and also contain pullys that then direct the timing belt down the left and right hand side of the printer.

as i have said i extracted the files, just need to find somewhere or someone that can print them as i dont have a 3d printer yet.

The printer use 2 pulleys of 20T made of aluminium, you can find the link of the pulleys the bom file with the name "gt2 20T 5mm pulley W16mm". This type of hardware (pulleys) you can not go cheap and use printed ones, this will sure affect the reliability of the printer.

In the photos all the pieces in black are pla printed, this include the x, y, z axis and panels. All the dimensions of the pieces are correct, i have used the same file to build my printer.
If you do not have an printer the best is to extract all the pieces you need and paid someone print them. There are some web site where you can find people near you that can print what you need, check for example https://www.3dhubs.com/
If this is your first time your are building an printer i can help you with the process.
You can find help for this print in the next forum: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?397,551126

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