Insulator retainer
by SingularityU, published
Description
OK, the acrylic part just shattered, so I installed the printed part and it is working great!
I was concerned that the insulator may get too hot for an ABS part, but after several hours of operations at 220 degrees, it is working fine.
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view allI've written a Find Faces tool for Sketchup that will automatically find all faces. I used this to import the CupCake DXF files and reconstruct a 3D CupCake Sketchup model. I don't have a good place to blog and place files yet, but I'll email you if you wish. just mail to {first five letters of my user ID} at gnat.com.
-Geert
Glad to hear it worked for you! I am trying to print a good extruder wheel now, as that is the only other part that tends to break in my Makerbot.
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Instructions
There are two files that are pretty much the same, use either one:
insulator retainer.stl which I made in sketchup from dimension measurements
and
insulator retainer built from dxf file.stl which I made by importing the dxf file from makerbot into sketchup and then modifying to get the third dimension.
Print out the part and use it as per the plastuder assembly instructions.
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I was also a little bit concerned about the printed insulator retainer plate on the printruder I designed (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi.... But after printing quite some time, I never had any problem with the temperature on the top of the thermal barrier. I disassembled the printruder several times to check for problems of this kind: No single hint of melting ABS at the retainer plate so far. So I think it should be ok (although I never measured the temperature on the top!)
How do I get from the dxf file to an stl format? I tried importing it into Sketchup, but the scale factor was way off.
OK, I was able to get the dxf file into Sketchup and scaled correctly, but it is hard to work with-- selecting all of its parts is difficult and Sketchup has a hard time recognizing what areas are enclosed. So I used it as a template to build from and was able to make an object that has identical size holes and spacing of those holes to the original. I made the overall outline a circle because it was too much trouble to try and hand trace the exterior outline.
Packed it up, made the stl file and the gcode, printed it.
Comparing the two parts, they look the same (you can look through the holes in one and they line up nicely with the holes in the other), so the original dimension measurements were OK. This was a nice way to double-check that.
If there is an easier way to use the dxf files without buying AutoCad, please let me know.
use the source, luke, for 100% accurate measurements: http://svn.makerbot.com/tags/p...
:)


This really saved my replicated bacon yesterday. The only problem with the first version is I had fill set to on 0.1. The piece began to buckle once I started putting plastic through it. I'd suggest a fill of at least 0.5. I printed an extra once I was back up and running finally!
Glad to hear it worked for you! I am trying to print a good extruder wheel now, as that is the only other part that tends to break in my Makerbot.