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Artichoke Lamp Shade

by gCreate, published

Artichoke Lamp Shade by gCreate Sep 14, 2015

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79583Views 12639Downloads Found in Decor

Summary

Inspired by the geometry of an artichoke and Louis Poulsen's great lighting studies and diagrams. This beautiful lamp shade is perfect for the home or business. You can use any standard hanging light cord and a low temp bulb (such as a cfl bulb.) We purchased a standard lamp base with a 12 ft cord from amazon and it screws in the top hole with no issues.

40% infill, high cooling, slow speed. May be tricky on some printers so you may need support for some of the lower fins.

Notes:
The model was created in 3ds Max 2011 but due to the inch/mm unit issues the model is scaled up by 2540%.

Check out http://www.gcreate.com for information on our Large Format gMax 1.5 + 3D Printers

Instructions

The file was made in 3ds Max 2011. We started with two sets of fins offset by 30 degrees. These fins were designed to hide the light source while allowing for reflected light. The profiles were also created to allow for printing on an FFF printer.

After several passes at the perfect shape, the entire model was arrayed radially to create the full lamp shade. We finished by using a boolean union to make it manifold.

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scaled it down to 90% and it is a piece of cake for a prusa I3 MK2. now it goes on the light bulb when you screw it in to any socket!

Newby here. I want to send this to print at a local 3dhubs. What are the chances of success? It seems that this is a pretty tricky one to get right?

Tricky indeed. We have been testing the limits of our 3d printer. If they quote it that means they should be able to print it but it just may be a very slow print. We would be curious to see the results. Do they have a gMax printer?

Well, I got my print from "Rocket City 3D's Hub" on 3dhubs, and I couldn't be happier. I just posted my "make" with a couple of pictures. I think they made it on a Lulzbot Taz 5 and printed using white PLA at 200 microns. I don't know any more details. I tried to post some pictures that the hub attached to my order as it was being made, but couldn't figure out how to download the pictures in order to do that.

If it goes forward, I will post pictures of the result. I'm waiting to see if they'll accept the print. The guys I chose have a MendelMax 2.

I'm sorry, it's about 30mm too tall for my Mendelmax 2. I hope you find someone that can print it.

Thanks. Most MendelMax2's we have seen are good printers so hopefully it works out. Not sure if you saw one of our other lights. It was made for Anna my partner and co-owner of gcreate. We have several more on the way too. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1492012

Anna Flower Light
by gCreate

Yes, I saw it. It's already in my "liked" things. Great work. I hope I can learn to design things half as beautiful and intricate one day.

Cool. Just subscribed to your channel.

Keep at it. We're actually working on a new 5 part design tutorial video for YouTube literally right now.

Will it fit e27 bulbs?

May 4, 2016 - Modified May 9, 2016
gCreate - in reply to PratchettR

It was designed to hold a standard A19 bulb. Make sure it's a CFL or other low temp bulb.

I've just got an idea. What if I make it wider to fit GU4 led bulb? It actually makes a spotlight without overheating.

Very cool design!
Is that a prusa i3? what variation?

Nevermind, just saw your comment below about the printer! ;)

cool almost looks like a hops flower

I sliced it at just about 24 hours...
But failed about 8-10 hours in :-(

Can't get the angles on my machine in ABS... I know I can print it in PLA but I'd rather have it in ABS for maximum heat properties and longevity...

How was the original printed gCreate? Do you remember what settings were used?

We found the lower portion of the lamp to be the hardest part due to the extreme overhangs. The model also has a fair amount of bridging so make sure your printer has high cooling.

Print with a lower layer height (around 160 microns) and this will help with the overhang angles since each layer will be that much lower. Since each printer handles settings differently, I am posting tips below instead of specific values.

-Print with high cooling
-Try raising the z-axis during retractions (a setting in most slicers) to help cool the fins but also reduce curling
-Print the lower portion of the model very slowly
-Reduce the number of perimeters and set infill to a low percentage. For the fins you don't need any infill.
-Again make sure you have the right settings to be able to handle 1.5" of bridging.
-Print in carbon fiber filament. CF filament seems to have little or no curling at all and it is great for the angles. It's just black so it has to be finished once complete.

Please include a reference to the original Louis Poulsen lamp from the 50ies in your Description Text. It is really not a nice thing as a designer, to plagiate someones other Design and don't even leave a Reference. Also it is good education for most here...

While I agree adding the link is great for reference, I disagree that having inspiration constitutes plagiarism. As a designer myself, who has had his works actually plagiarized, that is no small charge. There is a line between being inspired and copying. I was actually inspired by the geometry of an artichoke combined with Poulsen's hand drawn section diagrams on light scattering.

It looks very nice, bit I do have two practical concerns:

  1. It looks like it'll block almost all the light.
  2. Most 3D printer materials are ridiculously flammable. Try putting some PLA or ABS into a flame some day and watch how well it burns. I'm not happy with putting so much of it near anything electrical.
Oct 17, 2015 - Modified Oct 17, 2015
gCreate - in reply to vylbird

Hi Vylbird,

  1. The light was actually designed to block most of the direct light so that only reflected light would scatter. The light was inspired by the great designer Louis Poulsen and his amazing lighting diagrams and studies. Definitely worth research if you're interested.

  2. I wouldn't say most filaments are 'ridiculously' flammable otherwise they would catch fire as they are extruded. We recommend using a cfl bulb due to its lower temperature. A typical CFL bulb has a heat range around 80C-100C and that's at the surface of the bulb. ABS has a glass transition temp around 220C and an auto ignition temp closer to 400C. This provides a very safe buffer from the CFL bulb temp. Also PLA or ABS will no doubt catch fire in a flame which has a temp over 1000C but this only applies if you have a malfunctioning electrical connection (in which case most components in your house would also catch fire since almost every electrical component in a modern home is plastic and in direct connection with electrical circuits).

We leave our light on every night and I have been actively checking the temperature, by touch, and the light is only slightly warm to the touch.

The bigger worry is if you use an incandescent bulb or you have a light with very little ventilation. We designed an different light with no ventilation and used a 60 watt incandescent bulb. The result was the print slowly sagged over the course of 5 days and it would have fallen off if we didn't stop it (which was part of our small experiment).

As mentioned the light was designed so the fins would not allow light to pass through (creating the gradient effect) which is why it prints with 4 perimeters. We also printed it in carbon fiber which resulted in a very cool 'dark' effect. Great for an intimate setting.

Thanks for the feedback.

I like your wind turbine too. Can't wait to try printing it.

Oct 17, 2015 - Modified Oct 17, 2015
Tompo - in reply to vylbird

1 Use slightly transparent filament
2 i) Spray with non-flammable paint
ii) Print with nylon - which is an ignition resistant material with a high melting point
iii) Use an LED or CFL light bulb

I like your 3D printer. What is your printer name/model? thanks.

Hi Velidemir,

We are the makers of the gMax 1.5+ and gMax 1.5XT+ Large Formate Desktop 3D Printers. Check out our website (http://www.gcreate.com) for more information, free downloads and our 3d print gallery.

Just tried printing and I'm getting problems with the base of each "fin" sagging - reckon if I added a V-Shaped notch into the base of each "fin" that it might solve the sagging issue by making it an inward slope instead of an regular bridge?

Any other suggestions on how to fix it - perhaps a change the printing parameters?

(Current attributes: 60mm/s bridging speed, 100% fan speed/cooling - using PLA at 195C (I alter the temp by up to 10 degrees in either direction - the lower temps tend to delaminate though!)

Many thanks!

Great idea. I was having the same issues.
Post your modification if you get around to it!

Any specific speed, or layer settings?

Oct 14, 2015 - Modified Oct 14, 2015
gCreate - in reply to MinnesotaMade

The speed is very printer dependent. On the gMax 1.5+ we print it at around 130mm/sec movement speed, 70mm/sec print speed with 60% perimeter speeds. You can also try printing with z-axis lift to avoid the tricky overhangs. As for layer height it is really up to the effect you are going for. We personally like seeing the cascade of layers (as the light shines) so we prefer a thicker layer height of around 240 microns.

got it, any supports?

We print ours without supports but keep in mind the overhangs are quite extreme so you may have to add them.

Looks cool but I can't imagine how long that file will take to print.

The print time is dependent on the printer and the filament. We printed one shade in around 20+ hours using a simulated wood fill by Polymaker but we still had a lot of stringing so we still have to tweak the settings. We printed another in Protopasta carbon fiber PLA which looks absolutely stunning (Photos coming soon) and i think it was around 17-18 hours. The model requires a high level of cooling or slower speeds which will increase the time.

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