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Test your 3D printer! v2

by ctrlV, published

Test your 3D printer! v2 by ctrlV Sep 17, 2015

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107957Views 27390Downloads Found in 3D Printing Tests
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Summary

after a lot of wishes we present the new smaller Test your 3D printer! version 2.

new version 3 here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023

check out the forum for more help
http://www.whoote.com

new features

  • saving 75% volume compared to version 1
  • only 2.52cm3. (Version 1, 2mm baseplate: 3.16cm3)
  • optimized 3D print font
  • higher resolution
  • wall thickness
  • this version is for 0.48mm extrusion width (more to come)

This is a hard to print testfile!
often you don't know if your printer is ready for complex files. with this file you have an easy option to check problematic printing/slicing stuff.

does your printer challenge this ultimative part?
check it out and get (almost) instant results.

these test are included in this very tiny file:

  • size: the object is 2x50x30mm (baseplate)
  • hole size: 3 holes (3/4/5mm)
  • Nut size: M4 Nut should fit perfectly
  • fine details: pyramide, cone, all numbers
  • rounded print: wave, half sphere
  • minimum distance & walls: 0.1/0.2/0.3/0.4/0.5/0.6/0.7mm
  • overhang: 25°/30°/35°/40°/45°
  • bridge print: 2/4/8/16/mm
  • surface: all the flat parts

version 1 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409

Instructions

  • infill: 33% infill or similar
  • extrusion width: 0.48mm
  • layerheight: 0.1mm
  • print time: about 30 minutes, depending on your printer & settings
  • raft: you can use a raft

The Version 1 has the correct Baseplate with 2mm height, the older has 1.5mm

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That looks excellent!

Mar 2, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016

Hello! I've bought a printer 2 weeks ago. Your test objects are very useful! Thanks and I'll post the results onthis site soon.

Hello!
Do you have any advice to improve my prints?
I printed it in 0.1mm, with cooling, at 190°C

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:200433

it seems like warped in the side view.
the overhang seems a little bit melted, maybe more direct cooling.
check the extrusion width.

Okay, I will check that! Thanks!

what's the point of this?
I first thought it was a puzzle, LOL

maybe read the infos and the title of this calibration / test part :-)
if you print 42 pcs. you will maybe have a puzzle...

Jan 31, 2016 - Modified Jan 31, 2016
TheRiddick - in reply to sporkmaster

This is just another calibration test print to help you hone in your printer for better results. Giving it a go now since it doesn't use much plastic (some of them use heaps).

In the description there is 5 overhangs:
"overhang: 25°/30°/35°/40°/45°"
But I see 6, so - one is missing, which one? 20° or 50°?

Anyway, great job!

it's a double from 35°, glad you found this, i dont have such cool glases... will fix this.

I just checked with Fusion360 and baseplate seems to be 1.5mm tall instead of 2mm, as other users have reported.
Please check/fix description. Thank you for sharing :)

you are right, the baseplate is just 1.5mm. i uploaded a corrected version.
thanks alot for the hint.

Any advice for my part test results?

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:186839

Test your 3D printer! v2

nice orange :-)

here some things you could try:

  • Size - check the steps from yout Z-axis, proof with dial gauge
  • Hole Size - check your extrusion width and speed for lines > go slower.
  • Nut Size- same as holes
  • Fine Details - check your retract settings > less retract, also lower print speed to 30mm/s to check if the results are better.
  • Rounded Print - lower retract
  • Min Distance and Walls - check the extrusion width
  • Overhang - lower speed, check X/Y axis for clearance
  • Bridge Print - lower speed
  • Surface - check filament diameter with digital vernier caliper with a resolution of 0.01mm or better, adjust in software

will print, im assuming no supports or this would b too easy :P

with support the pyramid will have no good view :-)

I am a little confused with extrusion width. How can set it in CURA slicer?

there seems no easy control in cura, according this link
http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/08/walls-and-nozzles-and-cura-oh-my-or-quickprint-is-broken/

not shure if this is still the case...

i tested these slicer
http://www.whoote.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6

CURA is great but I can't recommend enough to have a couple slicer's at your disposal. Sometimes one just codes your prints better than others and have way more control over your printer.

it would be cool if there is a real slicer available, current slicer's have a lot of issues with different things.
it's a pain to check several slicer if they are willing to produce a useable result.

Printed pretty well on the makerbot replicator 2x. Would make the pieces less fragile though, as it broke when removing the base plate.

i will add this to the wishlist for the moment

Slic3r sliced it ok, but I am seeing a lot of thin strings, noticeable across the holes and the vertical pillars on the bridge and also around the vertical comb.

Any idea on the cause? also some sagging on the longest bridge section.

I'll try and photograph, but printed in black it might not show up too well.

running on a CTC 3D with the suggested settings.

Need to increase your retract perhaps?

a picture tells more

OK, I tried this with my CTC Makerbot Clone

First layers work really good, the print looks awesome, but after this, the nozzle gets clogged every time...
I think its because it spits out some unnecessary material while traveling?!

Following configuration:
Software: ReplicatorG Sailfish 40r33 with Skeinforge "Replicator 2 slicing defaults" and Print-O-Matic activated

Infill: 33%
Layer Height: 0.1mm
Number of shells: 1
Feedrate (mm/s): 30
Travel Feedrate: 40
Print Temperature: I tried 210 and 220
Bed Temperatur: 0
No Support
Material: PLA
Nozzle Diameter: 0.3mm
Filament Diameter (mm): 1.73

What can I try or doing wrong?

ctc printer is replicator dual... not replicator 2. maybe it profile issue? mine had same problem a lot too tho

make sure your base plate is level

how do you unclog the nozzle? maybe to hot?
check if there is enough cooling, and the feeder gear is clean.

Skeinforge is not very easy to configure, Print-O-Matic seems to be easy but in most cases you're better with manual control.
maybe you can use the makerbot software.

thanks for the infos.
I think, that the nozzle is never clogged. It seems that the feeder has a problem.
I cleaned that gear wheel twice, but it is not really dirty...
Then I start printing and after few minutes he goes like "tok tok tok tok tok tok...." and doesnt feed any material anymore...
Even if I want to unload material he doesnt get it out, always this "tok tok tok..." noise...
Perhaps the motor is broken? Or sth else?

had the same problem, increase the current

  • if you hear the "skipping step sound" you have
    a) something that blocks (to cold extrusion, hardware issue)
    b) not enough power from the stepperdriver (if there is info, adjust it with a multimeter)
    c) bad pla

Thank you very much for the info so far!

a) I print at 210° since I have the printer and I got no problem with that. The second extruder has no problem with that.
I disassembled the extruder and I cleaned the stepper, there was nothing that blocked

b) with stepperdriver you mean the NEMA 17 stepper motor? But why should it have not enough power now? Can it get less power over the months of use? What you mean with "if there is info, adjust it with a multimeter"? Where do I have to adjust it? At the motor or in software or on the mightyboard?

c) bad pla? you mean mightyboard is broken? How to check this?

Simplify3D only creates gcode for three of the 7 vertical fins.

whats your extrusion width?
could you please send some pictures from the slicing?

http://www.whoote.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6

The extrusion width is 0.48mm in the Simplify3D process. Simplify3D seems to elide walls thinner than the extrusion width. Because of this, the .4mm, .3mm, .2mm and .1mm walls do not get created when sliced.

most slicer have this behavior.

Any suggestions?

My board thickness came out to be roughly 1.5mm instead of 2mm
The circles are too small (but not oval). 3.75mm, 2.35mm, 1.75mm
And none of the letters on the board are legible.
Lastly, the bridge didn't print but I'm not super worried about that. I feel like that is a problem in and of itself. Perhaps raft/support is needed.

Photos here: http://imgur.com/ckSF3EZ,xTMJ2lK

  • it seems your printbed is not leveled. you can use a raft and/or calibrate.
  • check your Gcode for the Z-value in the last layer, this should be Z6.5.
  • if this is the case, check your hardware with a dial gauge for proper z-height.

check out http://www.whoote.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5

what do you do if it is wrong?

fix it...

Which print speed do you use for this one? 30 mm/s?

depends on the material and printer hardware.

Oct 19, 2015 - Modified Oct 19, 2015
instrcnsnclear - in reply to ctrlV

I.e. what material/printer/speed settings do you use to get a print time of ~30minutes?

with ABS / selfmade printer / 60-200mm/s i get about 34 min.

  • Perimeter 60mm/s
  • Loops 60mm/s
  • Infill 120mm/s
  • Travel 200mm/s
  • Retract 3mm @ 60mm/s

the baseplate is 2x50x30mm, small / big is a point of perspective :-)
what size you would like?

Should it be so small?

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