Life-Sized Sword of Omens

by cyclone, published

Life-Sized Sword of Omens by cyclone Jul 27, 2011

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I decided to make a version of the sword from the 80's cartoon. As an exercise for using sketchup and for a present for a friend's birthday. Just in time for the impending "event" (T-cats reboot), this Friday.

I spent a lot of time on the model. I started with a few models from 3dwarehouse. None were very good for printing, or scaled well for actually holding. All of them relied on textures for details that wouldn't show up after printing.

Initially the model came out too small. Then it didn't fit the hand well. Once it was sized and shaped correctly I had to work out how it could be chopped up to fit my build envelope. The latest version has location holes to help line up parts and glue together. It seems that the blade has benefited greatly from the interior channel. Even without the filament the blade is stronger.

I'm working on another version with an insert for the eye and an insertion slot for the blade. So that the whole sword can be printed by colors: grip, blade, eye, jewel.

Finished sword is about 45 inches (1145mm) from pommel to tip.
Oh and time for print @ 30mm/s min layer time of 20 secs:
6x blade pieces 5 hours
blade tip 1.75 hours (cool min layer makes it take a long time)
eye holder 2.5 hours
2x grip pieces 2.75 hours
pommel pieces 2 hours
total about 14 hours

Please let me know if there are any issues.
I'm aware that looking through the hilt only gives you the "Sight of Regular Seeing." Working on that.

Update V2:
Added an update eye holder piece, with an insertion hole for the blade, the blade can be printed (in an optional extra color) and sanded/cleaned/finished then inserted into the holder. The insertion point's clearance hasn't been tested, but should be close. Might need sanding cleaning for the blade to fit.

Also the new holder has inserts for the eye and cat emblem, which can be printed in two colors using the whole pause and swap method when it first starts printing the upper portion. This is also not printed yet but should be good. I'll print these and repport back later today.

So for this, obviously instead of eye-holder.stl you'd use eye-holderV2 and the inserts. One of each or two of the same one.

Switching to work in progress.

Update V3:

Found a small geometry problem in the eye holder as well as the fact that the thin ring (around the eye/cat image) was too thin to print nicely so changes to the inserts as well. Apologies if this print is too tall, I looked up the build envelope for a stock cupcake and fixed the model to stay under the published height of 130mm but if you have trouble with that use the V3 eye holder and the new shorter blade pieces.

Removed the original eye holder to reduce confusion. Any combined print can be exported from the sketchup.

Update V4:

Added the center channel for using threaded rod or double ended threaded studs. The hole is a 3mm and can be drilled out to a larger dim if need be. I've left the other registration holes for those that prefer to use that.

Also reversed the extrusion on the cat-insert to get around skeinforge's refusal to fill thin features. Prints much nicer. If you've already printed one, this one is a big improvement (see photo).


Print the parts out, clean and glue or weld together with acetone. There are channels for 3mm filament locators if you choose to use them.

Also from my various prints, I determined that the blade pieces are stronger with the filament channel running up through it. Whether you put the filament in it or not. It forces the blade to be printed with a more solid column running up it which tends to make it stronger. You might also want to print the blade at a higher infill than usual.

I used Skeinforge's multiply for the cross pieces, blade pieces, and grip pieces. It slices a lot faster than making a printing plate.


If you want a blade that isn't going to snap along a layer I recommend the following:

1: Tweak your setup to make interior holes the correct dimension (and/or drilling the holes out).

2: Run a piece of filament or preferably 1/8th inch steel rod from hardware store through the channel of the blade pieces.

3: When the pieces are all glued (with acetone or acetone/ABS mixture) gently sand the joints being sure to lay the blade on a long supportive surface.

4: Lightly paint the entire blade with acetone to weld the layers into one unit.

5: Sand and finish (paint or color).

6: Fight Ancient Spirits of Evil.

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I freaking love this so much! Thanks


Hey do you have the sword as one file?

what is the cartoon right color scheme

The model isn't a perfect cartoon replica, so there is a bit of interpretation allowed.But I did the Eye and Thundercat Symbol in red/black the handle in dark gray and the rest in light gray/silver.

That is the coolest thing I have ever seen!!! Awesome job! Does it give you 'sight beyond sight'? ;P

Sadly, only sight beyond plastic.
But it is a pretty cool, easily recognizable.
Even though my design isn't 100% true to the cartoon.

jbs - in reply to cyclone

What's the cartoon called?

cyclone - in reply to jbs

The original cartoon was called "The Thundercats". The leader, Lion-O, carried the Sword of Omens. The cartoon was redone/updated in 2011 on Cartoon Network. The Sword in that cartoon had a bit of a different look to this version.

Very nice design and excellent to print. Well done!!

am looking at re building the sword blade using wire to attach the pieces together and filaflex (an elastic type filament).
The 1st piece has come out wonderfully. Printed at 240 degrees , 2 shells but with this type of filament you need to drop the extruding speed down to 20 mm/s and the travel speed to 70 mm/s. I am trying some rubber shoe glue to help with adhesion after I put the metal rod through the centre. After that will look at painting and hopefully finish with a photo. Its taken me a year to get back to this project , and hopefully will finish it completely this time.

Is the Claw Shield available for download too? Then my life would be complete.

really cool!! after my Grayskull build I was looking for something of Thundercats or even better: M.A.S.K. ;-)

@ cyclone : the PLA was made by a company in Korea , i picked the colour and they made to order. - i have been trying to add a 2nd colour into the builds . so when you hit 90 % its rather easy just to change the colour mid build and the 10% thats then printed on top will give you that glow in the dark feel. The Glow in the dark filament is made by a company called faberdashery and they are located in Somerset UK.
iF you like i could organise my skype details with you and then send you a roll of this grey to try.......

Changed tack, got some battleship grey made for me in PLA , extended the hand grip a tad to fit my hand and added red and black PLA within the same build to make the lion symbol ... Still contemplating whether i print a rock and have the sword protuding out of it or create the blade in grey and then at 90%of each part layer some glow in the dark yellow onto it . A work in progress but am getting there. Its got a 10% infill and was printed at 0.1 .

Looks great. Where did you get the PLA made?

For adding the glow in the dark, do you mean to paint on something at the end of each layer? Seems like that would make the blade very weak, which it already is. Not sure how to solve that problem other than the metal rod inside it, as mentioned.

I should revisit this design, add some snazzy to it. Light on the emblem or maybe a thicker blade with LEDs inside.

just makeing mine goin good so far
any one made an stand for it yet

nice sword , im trying to make it in glow in the dark blue PLA , will let you know how it ends up

hi i started printing the sword teh other day starting with teh tip, the lower half prints fine but the tip comes out all splodgie, i think its because i have too much platic being fed out when i get teh the finer details but i am unsure ow to rectify this in rep g.

any help would be appriciated


If you are using Skeinforge you want to turn on "Cool" to "Slow Down" and minimum layer time to 10 or 15 seconds. Other slicers should have a means of slowing down the print as the area gets smaller.

What is happening is that the previous layer is still hot and melted when your put the next one on it. Slowing down allows it to cool a bit first.

hi again tried this but i think that the problem is that i am extruding too much platic when i get to finer details. is there a setting that slows down the extrutider when i get to finer details) i am using the mk 7 extruder)

Not just for small details. You can reduce the plastic used on a whole print by lowering the flow rate in Speed.

How about a version of the sword in dagger form/mode?

yzorg - in reply to

my copy is pretty much dagger sized.

cyclone - in reply to

If you just want it smaller, you could print only one grip piece, and just the tip. Also the cross pieces would turn the other way (curling down instead of up).

But if I can get time I'll look at making a better dagger version.

This should be removed a sissy like you may hurt yourself

A sissy like someone too scared to post with their name? :)

For anyone who has printed blade tip, what setting did you use for the Cool function? I used a setting of 1 second min per layer and was still kinda globby at the top. It could be ground down, but I'd like to print a slightly better one if I can. (I'm using a Cupcake with a MK4 and Zydac's z-extender)

Either way, I hope to assemble and paint the parts in the next few days. :)

1 sec/layer would effectively disable the cool feature. (There's no way for a layer to take less than a second to complete) You want to bump it up so that it takes at least x seconds to finish a layer so it has time to cool before you put the next layer on it. I have mine set to 15 seconds. The MK4 can't slow-down the extrusion so you'll have to orbit. A stepper extruder slows down the extruder and feed rate so print it out perfectly. (Or as nearly as we can at this time) I recommend a stepper upgrade. Printed or otherwise. :)

Oh yeah, I definitely want to move up to a stepper upgrade.. Just can't drop the ~$200 on it right now. :(

But I did a few tests with different cool settings, and here's what I've got: (starting from the left)

  • 1 second
  • 2 seconds
  • 10 seconds
  • 20 seconds

The 1 seems to be the highest quality.. It has the greatest amount of smooth surface area, and is imperfect only with a small bulge from the surf
ace of one side of the tip. 2 is more blob-y than 1. The 10 has good shape but the entire tip area is rough. The 20 fell over while printing but is extremely rough over the whole surface.

Finished assembling the hilt this morning:

Very Nice! :) I like black, I need to do one.

Think I'm done now. Treated the blade with acetone as suggested, might spraypaint with silver Krylon Fusion if I can get set up in a paint-friendly space. :)

TY for the great design.

On the blade i made threads in the holes and used M4 bolts(without heads) and screwed the parts together. I did not even need glue then... and.. i think it wold be nice if ALL parts had center holes too and it would be A LOT easier to assemble..



cyclone - in reply to

Nice pics. Yeah I didn't even think about using threaded studs, and I used to install hardwood handrails for a living. (In which you use such bits of hardware) It would be trivial to add that but the question is how big do people want, what sort of hardware do people have available? I guess I'll just throw a 3mm hole in the middles and if one need it to be bigger they can drill it out or mod the sketchup. Thanks for the idea.

Yeah... a extra center hole would be just perfect... I will make 1 more of this as soon as you make that...

Im getting nice feedbacks on this print...

Thank YOU for the GREAT design and tell me when you have updated the parts containing that center hole :-)

cyclone - in reply to

updated. See V4 parts.

WOW.. that was FAST!! Thank You!! looks great! 8-)

cyclone - in reply to

Sketchup is actually pretty easy to use. This has been a nice educational project to get up to speed on it.

would it be too much to ask if you could make a version of the blade parts in half ...? so one can print the blade laying flat on the bed and glue the 2 parts together.(still with the center hole)

This would make a stronger and easier to fit together blade i think... + this would make is easy to extend the parts to fit my 305mm bed length. reducing the blade joints.. :-)

cyclone - in reply to

Updated. You can stretch the piece with your soft? I just did the 100mm bits. What printer are you using with a 300mm bed?

WOW.. Thank You ...again!!! :-)

I print on a RobunDel printer... only a updated one form the one I have published here on Thingiverse...

ROTORIT - in reply to

Hey....!!?? is it possible to make a fancy printable wall mount for single sword too... like.. containing the eye and cat logo too...?

That would look great 8-) :)

ROTORIT - in reply to

BTW... Thank you for the "blade split flat" files...

Here i printed one blade tip that i extended to 300mm long 8-)

What have you done??? Now the Thundercats are loose!

Oh WOW!!!

I must print this!!

Bad the fuck ass.

  1. Please don't upload weapons. The world has plenty of weapons already.


No more weapons please{.} :-D

I'll delete it immediately{.} :)

ssd - in reply to Jolijar

A weapon sword has a metal blade. This...appears to be a toy?

This is no more a weapon than any other thing on thingiverse. All of them can be use to hit someone.

And the printable model rockets are the most dangerous weapon you can produce with a RepRap but yet you are not complaining to them!

I know I was only kidding... :) Perhaps I didn't bleed enough sarcasm? Wonder how this would look in glow in the dark...

But this weapon is out of this world!

until you print it :)

I almost passed this by because I didn't realize the scale of it from the picture. MakerBots HOOOO!

I want 2 of these crossing each other... going on to print now.. :)

I'm wanting to do a printed in color one (with silver PLA for the hilt/blade). I'd like to do a black one, "The Bad Omen" :)

The 120mm print height is proving to be challenging on my cupcake... The blade is going to be a little shorter than it's meant.. :I

Whoops, I've got a cupcake with a lowrider but I thought there was still plenty of room which is why I went with 120. I'll see what I can do. If you can't wait you could chop the blade in Netfabb.

Hmm.. I too have a lowrider but also a DIY 5mm hotplate and that's taking some space, but not 'that' much...

I guess this prints fine with stock parts...

Fido - in reply to Fido

..And it's going to be "Bad omen" -black :)

Okay, dude, this is pretty darn awesome.

Indeed.. :)