Cupcake Nozzle R1
by deherzog, published
Description
I'm still debating how I want to retain the assembly into the head.
The groove that is there now would be for wrapping the nichrome wire so that all the heating occurs in the nozzle rather than through out the tube.
Recent Comments
view all
Before anyone builds this, I should reiterate, I *completely* made up these numbers. I have to find the actual reprap/makerbot drawings to make
“real dimensions.â€Â
@Grogyan
Cost
No you're right. These only get affordable when you make a lot of them. (And I’m pricing these out using “new old stock†surplus micro drills so that probably doesn’t help anyone actually running production.
I’m kind of curious to know what the lo
t size the makerbot guys are running when they order nozzles. I’m hoping that it would be enough to buy time one someone’s swiss turn but I don’t know if those numbers would actually work out.
Tooling
Sorry, I should have mentioned that I was assuming that this was being ordered from a comp
any that has a subspindle so you can put an axially oriented drill chuck in the tool holder and do the whole part with out having a manual opp to flip the part around.
CAD:
Sorry. For some reason the software is telling me that angle can be an implied dimension but for the life of me I can’t se
e how it got that number either. If you measure that outer angle it comes out to something odd (75.43 deg.) so hopefully the updated pic makes my intent for measuring strategy a bit clearer. Orifice diameter was 0.020in with a 0.020 wall at the tip. (Sorry, I’m still drawing in imperial units.
I’m still working on developing some concept of metric units in my head.)
Export:
Awesome, I’ll do a conversion. Good to be on the same page as everyone else :P
@ rbisping
Awesome! I’m really glad to hear you’ve done some tests there. Let us know when you are able to post some info.
That data will be really helpful!
ive been testing several extruder tip designs and having a very short heat zone is necessary otherwise the back pressure and resistance at the upper end of the barrel will cause failure eventualy. it might work for a bit but so far i havent had a long barrel last more than 30 minutes. as the filiment travels down the barrel it obsorbs the heat and gets more and more sluggish to the point of failure. or at least that is how it appears.
Have you got quotes to get this thing made at a CNC company?
Sorry to burst your bubble.
I've redone the mechanical drawings for the standard RepRap extruder assembly, and decided to do a new nozzle, and compared it, cost wise, with a dome nut nozzle, and the cost difference is huge.
The other thing is, when you get down to less than 0.3mm as you have here,
the cost of tooling also goes up remarkably, as the company, or yourself have to fork out a lot of cash just a few drill bits, as they aren't standard twist drill bits and I have found that they only can be used up to less than 2mm in depth.
Reason for this is that the chuck in a lathe can't grip s
omething that small and therefore need a larger diameter shaft.
Have a look at this place
http://www.tradetools.co.nz/db...
&
amp;MODE=*LIST
&
amp;CLASS=FJM
(All costs on the site are in NZ$)
Last thing you've not done, is specified the angle of the nozzle tip, or specified the drill and tap of the inside of the nozzle.
One last thing, please use dxf as the export option or pdf, not everyone has a copy of SolidWorks.
If you can fix those things and repost the design, that'll be cool.
Tags
License
Give a Shout Out
Instructions
Rather than threading the tube into the nozzle I was thinking of braizing it in.
I googled info on braizing such dissimilar metals check and found the below page:
welding-advisers.com/Brazing-stainless.html
File Name
Downloads
Size
Comments
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Hey Deherzog,
Awesome design idea! Yeah similar concept. Are the parts easily obtainable or are they custom design?
What type of program do you need to open the files you included also?
The nozzle is custom. I actually just sketched up from something on the napkin book. (No actual part yet.) I figured since they already were it was just a matter of updating the lathe file and if you don't have a lathe you could totally get away with making it in hex stock with drill press for the "A" side radial and axial features and then using the drill press with a dremmel in the vice for the "B" side nozzle hole.
The stainless tube pretty standard, though I have to look up how they cut it. My guess would be that it involves sticking the needed length over a mandrel and then chopping that off slowly.
I went with braizing because I wasn't sure how to thread something like that and get a good seal while hav
ing the tube bottom out so material doesn't catch at the joint and burn.
All my parts are designed in Solidworks Student (I'm a robotics student). I'll upload STL's for everyone later if they prefer. They used to have a free SW training version but I think that has gone away.
I'm still hunting
around for a freeware parametric CAD software we can all work with hard numbers but thus far have only seen non-parametric. (Though I hear you can get driving dimensions in a Rhino demo now with a free add-in which works as long as you don't make more than the demo limit of 20 some odd parts.)
:
-P