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RepRap Simpson (Gada Prize Silver Medalist) DEPRECATED

by nseward, published

RepRap Simpson (Gada Prize Silver Medalist) DEPRECATED by nseward Jun 15, 2013

Description

DEPRECATED

Simpson is a new grounded delta 3D printer.

Build Volume: about 10L
Build Area: about 350mm diameter
Build Height: 190mm
Speed: >200mm/s
Realistic Print Speed: 60mm/s
Cost: $390

Recent Comments

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They are live now. No instruction yet just STLs.
Only seem to be able to find the Wally information on you GitHub - will the Simpson with the gear-arms get there as well, or have I misunderstood something?
I will put a stub version here but will post the real files here. github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE

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Instructions

DEPRECATED

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aytfhr2DeeM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXEcocEHfRQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uug9d01Yyy8

Here is a donation link for those that requested it. Thanks for the support.
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=nicholas%2eseward%40gmail%2ecom&lc=US&item_name=Nicholas%20Seward&currency_code=USD&bn=PP%2dDonationsBF%3abtn_donateCC_LG%2egif%3aNonHosted

Follow the assembly pdf.

After main assembly, add rubber bands to each arm one at a time until you can push the effector to any location in the print volume and when release the effector will return home. (top dead center) After you have installed the rubber bands run your fishing line. Loop the line back and forth until you have a mechanical advantage that will work for all positions in the build volume. (I will post more details as I build baby Simpson.)

I will be adding parametric OpenSCAD files as I get time so there can be many Simpson variants out there.

Before First Run:
Load the firmware of your choice. Calibrate all motors so that the change in effective distance of an arm matches what the host software sends.

Edit parameters.py to match you machine. Run zero.py to get calibration routine. Use the gauge.stl to measure all the offsets. Place these offsets in the calibration array in parameters.py.

Operation:
User whatever slicer program you want. The middle of the bed is 0,0,0. Run the produced gcode through segmitize.py to transform the coordinate system. You may need to do a few dry runs are you modify offset in parameters.py.

Disclaimer:
This is all very rough. Let me know if something is wrong.

Development Forum:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458,page=1

Enjoy!

File Name

Downloads

Size

I am deprecating this version. This was a successful prototype but the design has progressed a lot. youtu.be/IEGTe1G2Gqs
I see there has been a post about the lasercut dimensions before. I was just wondering about the small raised area around the holes (on the top_arm.stl; suppose they are to fit with the bearings) - is this something to be concerned about, or shouldn't it matter? and what about the bigger thingies on the back_arm.stl?

Perhaps you could provide a list of which components are suitable for lasercutting and what plate thickness is best to use.

Love the project, and really can't wait to build mine!
Those raised areas are standoffs. They keep the arms away from things like the springs.

You can see from the picture what parts were originally laser cut. However, I modified it so everything would be printer friendly. You can use the STLs as a template to make the laser cut parts. For instance, the back_arm could be cut from 5mm flatstock and you could print two cylindrical standoff to serve the same functionality.

All that said, this is now deprecated. I am in the midst of finishing up the next version. youtu.be/IEGTe1G2Gqs
Looking even better!!

Awesome - I will wait with the 3D printing and lasercutting for a bit and wait for this version. Will you be posting the STL files for this version as well somewhere?
I will put a stub version here but will post the real files here. github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE
Only seem to be able to find the Wally information on you GitHub - will the Simpson with the gear-arms get there as well, or have I misunderstood something?
They are live now. No instruction yet just STLs.
Looks like the design has been updated somewhere: reprap.org/wiki/File:Simpson2013.jpg
Where can I find the latest and greatest?
I am getting pretty close to a release. forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,206458,page=14 This thread will be the first to know about it. Or you can watch my GitHub. github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE
Simpson is my favorite design so far. Looking very much forward to the release of GUS :)
The new gear-armed version is even better! When will you publish the files for the GUS? Do it soon, please :)
With spoon it would make a good mixer with the speeds we've seen...
Awesome design! Are you planning on making the quick detachable?
Looks like a nice design, shorter than most deltas. I'd hate to bump it with so many protruding moving parts. Very cool build volume. I particularly like the central column with rotation along a common axis.

I wonder how may people will make them in yellow and like this one and affectionately name it "Homer". In my household we call our Mendel "G.L.A.D.O.S." which often seems appropriate, especially when things go wrong. :-)
Two quick notes. 1) This design is very tolerant of bumping into it. 2) I am less than 2 weeks away from releasing a much simplified version.
Good to know, as i wanted to start to print this this next weekend, i guess i could wait a bit and finish my ramps first .)
I admire this design! It seems to me many want to repeat your design. It is so unusual.

You genius!

If you not against that I want to repeat. I already started printing details and bought electronics.

I ask you create the instruction for firmvare and the software.
There is not much to say on the firmware side. Install generic firmware. You have to remove the flags for the end stops. You also have to adjust the steps/mm until each arm moves in like it should. (I know this is quite vague. If you read the forum I have linked above you will see that I am working on a much different version. You can also look at my youtube channel to get an idea of the new direction I am taking. In 2-3 months I expect to have custom software written that will make the operation of Simpson for the uninitiated. Currently, Simpson is for the brave of heart.)

Luckily, all the stuff you have already bought will also work for the new design.

Drop me a line if you get it built and you are having trouble getting it to move. I would love to help.
Fascinating design! I'm toying with the idea of building one, but the spring_arms are too big to fit on my prusa-sized printbed (200x180mm), no matter how I rotate them. Is there an alternative?
Yeah, I designed it to print itself. You can wait until I make the parametric model so you can make a "Maggie". Better yet, you can get any flatstock you have laying around and cut out some arms. Contact me if you would like some help with measurements on a derivative.
oh well Morgan beat us to it
Congrats for taking the Silver Medal. You got a real awesome machine there!
or you can have the cantilever to support from the top
uhmm , do you really need the third arm - I don't why but I think if you away with the third arm it might be better???
For 3 degrees of freedom you need 3 motors. You could use 2 arms but the then you would need to actuate something else or you would only have 2d motion. For instance, you could have two Simpson arms plus you could have the third motor control one of the arm's shoulder joint angle.

That is actual a neat idea. It would more than double the print volume that is already super big. The problem, however, is that the arms would need to be much more rigid when you constrain the arm angle from that far from the end effector.
or you can have a cantilever support from the top
You will have to sketch this or elaborate. I am not following. I am working with some other guys on another bot you may be interested in. Search for RepRap Wally.
ok I do that let see if our idea is in line
where can i find the laser cutting files like you have used in your prototype.?
I should mention that the arms are really simple if you can't wait for me. They are 200mm from hole to hole. That is all that matters. You can used different widths, thicknesses, and profile designs.
There a subtle changes throughout the whole bot and a lot of little parts that I incorporated into the members. I hesitate to post them here because it could lead to future confusion. I will start working on making a separate page for the lasercut prototype.
Very nice design.

You should link your thingiverse account to flattr. Your work would probably be one of those for which microdonations actually matters, since - I believe - lots of people will like it.
Maggie is an awesome name. I can't wait until people have printed the whole family.
I think so too!

both: great design!1!! on my search for a good printer, i want to print first with mine (formely "Japica" - my sad story and first step into the reprap-movement: thingiverse.com/thing:74222)
and: MANY people will love your design and possibly donate.

i think it is worth a try at kickstarter.com, because it looks awesome!
formerly Japica (PrintrBot derivat)
Could upload the stl file for the board which goes under the heated bed?

Btw I think this is a super cool design. It is perfect for someone who wants to build their second 3d printer.

It would be awesome to see more videos of print quality. I assume that being a delta, with a low weight gantry, it is (or at least has the potential to be) fast, and accurate.

Absolutely awesome! Thanks for sharing your design
Sure. I will have to get home first. I will upload as DXF. I just want to make sure people don't try to print it. Who could print something that big anyways.
Realy love the concept!
its my first encounter with the simpson and i must say its impressive.

what firmware is it based on? you are using triangulation i suppose?. is there a link for more information?
i wold love to know more about your project.

ps,
inventor, my personal favorite for designing parts and machines.
I wrote a whole long post but it didn't show up. Here goes again.

Firmware: I use unmodified firmware so anything you want should work. I will be modifying firmware soon so I can lessen the tool chain.

To do a coordinate transformation you just have to do the Pythagorean Theorem three times. The effective arm distance is directly proportional to the steppers rotation thanks to Annirak. Let's call this reverse trilateration to be fancy.

I put a link to the forum above. There is a wealth of information in it including failed design attempts.

In the download area there are some python programs that will preprocess gcode so you can run it on unmodified firmware.
I must say I love your assembly instruction!

What did you use to make it?
Inventor. I am getting more comfortable with OpenSCAD but I am so much faster with it and I have access.
Could you post your Inventor files? I'm trying to learn it myself and would love to see how other people design in it. Thanks!
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