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Hobby Breadboard

by AbyssalHeaven, published

Hobby Breadboard by AbyssalHeaven Jun 15, 2013

Description

The best thing since slic3d bread! Modular 3D-printable DIY breadboard. For the connections underneath, I tested out using Aluminum Foil (I used Heavy Duty, just in case) and it seems to do the trick. I used a breadboard I had lying around to test the foil. I took a long strip and folded it up into nearly the shape of the cavity, and cut it with scissors to size, and it made the connection properly. Breadboards of this size aren't that expensive (~$10 at RadioShack), but I did some math on the cost of the raw materials (both plastic and aluminum foil). And the cost of 1 unit with a main connection board and 2 supply boards came out to be less than $2.

Quick Disclaimer: I have not tested how these parts print. The Breadboard Tops are supposed to be printed with the lettering down, so I'm not sure how the writing will come out, but the rest should be printing friendly. Once I get my printer running I will test this out myself, and post pictures and/or a video of the finished product. If you end up making it, let me know how it turns out!

video proving the aluminum foil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lz4qjEJZf_M

Recent Comments

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I printed one up, sadly didn't get anything useable. Like you said those pins.... Also the walls turned out to only be 1 thick, which in my case meant .4mm. Looking fowards to and update.
I hadn't, and that's a great idea.

I did get the chance to print one of these a while back, and it worked just fine, I made a simply circuit like the one I did in the video and I just keep it hooked up as a proof of concept thing.
- The details in the lettering/numbering didn't really show up with the resolution I was using, but the fact that those rows had a marking was just as helpful, and I'll probably do that in the future, though i'm interested to try an SLA instead of an FDM printer.
- The snap on bottom also didn't work perfectly either; I ended up having to open up the holes in order for the pegs to go in, and then that kind of killed the friction fit, so another reason to do the sliding lid as you mentioned. The pegs also weren't the most sturdy.
- The side locking snaps worked rather well, actually.
- Also, I tried mimicking traditional breadboards with their drafted wire lead-ins, but those didn't come out particularly well on the printer I used either.

I should really make a second version of this with some of those takeaways, but the version I have up certainly works. Putting aluminum in the entire board takes a while though.

Thanks for the comment and feedback =)

Have you considered using a sliding slid for the back of this instead of the plate with pins you currently have? (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:449625), you could even have one for each side of the board to make redoing the aluminum, if needed, easy.

Did you ever get to print this up?

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Instructions

Print as many main boards/supply boards as you want, fold up some heavy duty aluminum foil and cut it to the size of the pockets. Then press the bottoms into your boards, and connect away!

Have you considered using a sliding slid for the back of this instead of the plate with pins you currently have? (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:449625), you could even have one for each side of the board to make redoing the aluminum, if needed, easy.

Did you ever get to print this up?
Parametric slide lid box
by koehn
I hadn't, and that's a great idea.

I did get the chance to print one of these a while back, and it worked just fine, I made a simply circuit like the one I did in the video and I just keep it hooked up as a proof of concept thing.
- The details in the lettering/numbering didn't really show up with the resolution I was using, but the fact that those rows had a marking was just as helpful, and I'll probably do that in the future, though i'm interested to try an SLA instead of an FDM printer.
- The snap on bottom also didn't work perfectly either; I ended up having to open up the holes in order for the pegs to go in, and then that kind of killed the friction fit, so another reason to do the sliding lid as you mentioned. The pegs also weren't the most sturdy.
- The side locking snaps worked rather well, actually.
- Also, I tried mimicking traditional breadboards with their drafted wire lead-ins, but those didn't come out particularly well on the printer I used either.

I should really make a second version of this with some of those takeaways, but the version I have up certainly works. Putting aluminum in the entire board takes a while though.

Thanks for the comment and feedback =)

I printed one up, sadly didn't get anything useable. Like you said those pins.... Also the walls turned out to only be 1 thick, which in my case meant .4mm. Looking fowards to and update.
Cool idea, thanks for sharing!
having taken apart one of my breadboards to clean it, I noticed the connections underneath are model railroad connectors. might need to crimp them a tad, and are available in a long strip.
I'm actually about to put up a video on how I use the aluminum foil to make the connections underneath. I cut the aluminum after I fold it in such a way that I get a bunch of flaps for the wire to squeeze in between to make the connection, but crimping the ends of the aluminum foil would probably help.
looks to be the same size as HO scale connectors
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