low res hi quality cup on ultimaker

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Published on July 31, 2011

Description

Single walled low res hi quality cup, printed is 17min 12 sec...!

see also facebook.com/europerminutedesign

Instructions

The trick:
- use a 0.8 mm nozzle [instead of standard 0.4mm]
- print with layerheight 0.4
- with skeinforge 39 [or higher] use fill, with solidity 0
- to get a nice bottom set the 'extra shells on alternating solid layers' and the 'extra shells on base layers' on 999
- for raftless printing: turn ON raft and set the base and interface layers on 0
set the first layer feed and flow rates at 0.25
- to not close the vase: remove the to 2 layers in the gcode file
- heat up and go!

tip for skeinforge developpers: will it be possible to have a top/bottom/both feature...?
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I managed to make one. :-)

I didn't manage to print it using your settings. Maybe some more experience is required. I THINK that what's happening is that with the 0.8 nozzle size and the 0.4 layer height, there is 4x more material being extruded per mm of travel. So I might have to reduce the printing speed by 4x to achieve normal extrusion rates.

Similarly I haven't been able to get it to slice into a single-wall structure. So it's made an ugly line across the side. Oh well.

Challenging print. Learned a lot. Thanks. :-)

Oh.... Question. http://www.alibaba.com/product...
Is the 3D printed dishwasher safe? I don't expect it to, because it softens a lot even well below boiling point.

Did you make this in PLA?

Do you have "interchangable nozzles"? I have only one nozzle. So is it possible to make this with the standard nozzle?

(I'm looking for my "second thing to make", The first was a small plastic component that I designed myself (and is of no use but for me). )

yes it is PLA

i changed the nozzle more or less permanently, but when hot, you can change nozzle pretty easy. It is not neccesary though! you can print also very thick walls in one go with a thin nozzle, just move a lot slower.

for a second make it is maybe difficult to make it watertight, then you can try the "tulips from amsterdam" maybe first... [http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...]

BTW, I was reading the skeinforge documentation and realized that one way to remove the "top" layers of the cup (without editing the gcode, which I am as yet unfamiliar with), you can set the "Layers To" field in Skeinforge's "Carve" subsection to "-3" or so and the top 3 layers will not be printed ("Layers To" is normally set to 9999 or something so that all layers are included in the print).

http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/...

that is a really nice feature...!!

Haven't tested it yet, but i will try it soon.

Why does the rendered STL appear to be solid, while the final product is hollow (a cup)? Is that a rendering error, or is the STL not the same as used for the cup?

Hi Canaduane, The stl file is rendered correctly. I think you missed the words "with solidity 0" in the instructions... This is a good trick to adjust your wall thickness printer indepently.

I'll probably post this in some other "things" comments as well. I'm wondering what you would suggest to seal a fdp 3d printed vessel like this to make sure it holds water a long time. Ill tell you why...

I am working on a bud vase like thing. Of course, it needs to hold water for a long period of time. The problem is, when I put my lips to the top and blow, air comes out somewhere very slowly - slow enough that you can't hear it, but quick enough that my cheeks lose inflation :)

ideas?

A quick dip in acetone would probably seal it perfectly.

most of my cups and vases are really waterproof, so no coating or seal is needed....

A multi faceted beauty! I hope you don't mind but I have featured it on my blog

http://www.faberdashery.co.uk/... :-D

Hi Faberdasher,

i don't mind at all, but it is not printed on a reprap / makerbot, but on an ultimaker... : )

Its not low res, simply multi faceted :-D