FuseBox CoreXY 3D Printer

by _AlexY, published

FuseBox CoreXY 3D Printer by _AlexY Oct 1, 2015
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Update 7/23/16: Added new version of extruder carriage (newcarriage.stl) that includes bolts to firmly clamp the belts in place. The interlocking teeth are now slightly rounded so mounting the belts should now be easier.

Update 2/28/16: Fixed extruder carriage so it mounts a 40mm fan instead of a 30mm fan. Added additional spacing between hotend and carriage to improve airflow and make more room for cables. These changes should alleviate jamming issues some people were having.

Update 1/7/16: Fixed an alignment error in the z nut mount piece. FuseBox SketchUp file is now in 2014 format, for greater compatibility. Also, the full printer is available in an STL file to help with assembly.

Update 12/22/15: For additional rigidity in the x-axis, use part HBLTBS3 from Misumi. These are metal corner brackets that replace the printed corner brackets and bottom plates on the x-axis. They're pretty cheap at $0.75 each and should effectively reduce frame wobbling.

The FuseBox is a low-cost CoreXY 3D printer that uses a 1515 aluminum extrusion frame. Capable of printing at high resolutions and high speeds owing to its CoreXY kinematics, it produces quality parts that are up to 200x200x200mm in size. It's designed such that no specialized equipment (such as a laser cutter or CNC machine) besides a 3D printer is required to fabricate all the parts.

The printer can be built for under $300 without a heated bed, or a bit over that with a heated bed. By finding the cheapest parts, the cost can approach $200.


  • Aluminum structure based on Misumi 1515 extrusions and printed brackets
  • Stacked variant of CoreXY that eliminates the belt crossing of a traditional CoreXY
  • 200mm cube of print area
  • Capable of 0.05mm layer height (possibly even less) and 150+ mm/s printing
  • Emphasis on using 3D-printed parts and being easily hackable/upgradable
  • Relatively low amount of filament needed for plastic components
  • Low moving mass—all motors stationary—high speeds
  • Portable—all hardware and electronics (except for filament spool) are integrated within the frame
  • No specialized tools or equipment necessary for assembly (accessible)


For more information, visit the RepRap wiki page at http://reprap.org/wiki/fusebox, or the RepRap forums thread at http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?397,557542

Print Settings


Doesn't Matter




0.2mm or less




The STLs should already be in the correct orientation for printing.
Print the structural brackets and z-axis braces with 3 perimeters or 1.2mm shell thickness at 60% infill, and the z-nut mount at 100% infill. All the other parts can be printed at 3 perimeters with 30% infill.
Support isn't needed for any of the parts, but your existing printer should be decent at doing bridges and overhangs.
If you experience warping while printing, try using a brim or raft.

Bill of Materials (Non-printed)

Item, Quantity
1515 Extrusion 380mm, 4
1515 Extrusion 330mm, 2
1515 Extrusion 345mm, 4
1515 Extrusion 300mm, 2
1515 Extrusion 250mm, 2
1515 Extrusion 152mm, 1
1515 Extrusion 386mm, 2
M3x6mm Bolt, ~150
M3x10mm Bolt, 6
M3x8mm Bolt (for metal corner brackets), 12
M3x25mm Bolt, 4
M3 Nut, ~150
M5x25mm Bolt, 6
M5 Locknut, 6
625 Bearing, 9
250mm M8 Threaded Rod, 1
M8 Nut, 1
300mm M8 Smooth Rod, 6
LM8LUU Linear Bearing, 6
5mm to 8mm Flex Coupler, 1
2mm Pitch GT2 Belt 3m, 1
20 Tooth GT2 Pulley, 2
Bed Leveling Springs, 4
RAMPS 1.4, 1
Arduino Mega, 1
NEMA-17 Stepper Motors, 4
12V PSU (20-30A), 1
40mm 12V Fan, 2
MK8 Drive Gear, 1
Medium Binder Clip, 2
E3D Lite6 Hotend, 1
Glass Sheet, 1
PCB Heatbed, 1
Mechanical Endstop, 3
Stick-on Furniture Feet, 4


The quantity of each part to be printed is in the file name of each STL.
Assemble the printer by looking at the Sketchup file or the STL of the whole printer for reference.

Version History

Version 1.0
Initial variant. Uses a non-intersecting CoreXY design to eliminate belt crossing issues.

Z-axis issues—slight wobble and linear bearing binding
Slight rigidity issues caused by weak corner joints
Extruder grip issues leading to inconsistent extrusion
Untidy wiring

Endstop integration (possibly with inductive z-probe)
Cooling fan addition to improve bridging and top speed for small parts
Bowden option for lower moving mass (will retain direct extruder for flexible materials)
Diagonal aluminum braces on sides
Reduce clearances for additional build area

Version 1.1

New compact extruder design with more solid hot end mount and fan duct addition
Bowden extruder carriage designed; cold end still in development
608 bearing idler replaced by a 625 idler
XY-gantry made more compact, resulting in ~18mm increase in maximum z-axis height
Z axis changes: bar spacing reduced, additional reinforcement for z-nut crosspiece

Slight z-wobble
625 Idler breakage problem

Additional bracing
Endstop integration

Uses a bowden extruder and replaces Aluhotend V6 with an E3D-Lite6. New idler design improves strength and extrusion consistency.

Version 1.2

New Y Bar attachments using 1 bolt each
Integrates bowden extruder and print fan
Larger corner braces
Cross braces on sides
Endstop integration
Added option for 30mm hotend cooling fan
10mm additional x-axis travel

Minor bed shake (worse at higher z-heights)

Version 1.2h
Currently in process of building and testing

Heated bed support
Wider z-rod spacing to accommodate heated bed
Additional z-axis bracing
Adjustable z-endstop
Additional y-axis travel
Replaced corner brackets with flat plates on lower x-axis

Inductive autolevel probe?

Version 1.3


Unheated and heated bed versions use same z-axis design
Certain parts made thicker to reduce chance of breakage
Corner brackets reinforced
New z-nut mount with reduced warp during printing and reduced backlash
Z-axis motor mount interlocks with bottom rod mount to simplify alignment
Printer made 10mm more compact; gantry rods more strongly held in x-ends 

Version 1.4

Resolves issues from 1.3 and earlier to improve print quality and simplify assembly. New LM8LUU z-axis results in smoother movement and less banding.


Hotend mount tolerances increased for easier mounting
Increased size of bed mount bolt holes
Hex nut guides for bed mount nuts
Squared back edges of z rod mounts for less warping/easier alignment
Strengthened z-endstop mount
Strengthened right x-end to reduce chance of breakage during assembly
Added labels to SketchUp file to aid assembly
Dual LM8LUU z-axis instead of quad LM8UU - increases smoothness and greatly reduces banding - highly recommended upgrade 

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Does it have a difference between bearings 625 and 625zz?

zz is shielded

Hi, did anyone manage to make Z inductive probing work on this machine? I've tried so many solutions it still doesn't work... :( help!

I have a capacitive probe working. Inductive would only work if you have a metal bed.

Hi godefroi. Thanks for your answer. I have installed à metal bed. My question was more on the repetier firmware configuration. I dont know what to change to make it work

I use Marlin, so I can't help you with Repetier configuration, sorry. Are you using MIC6 aluminum? Or an MK3 heatbed?

Comments deleted.

Hey if anyone is interested, Ive started making a blog thats all about my experience with building this printer. Im waiting on parts but have gotten several posts up. Come check it out :)


Whats the x carriage bearing spacing?

I've just started buying the materials to build this, come across my first problem!! I have found out that there seems to be 2 different types of this extruded 1515 section stuff - 1 type that takes drop in T-nuts, and another that takes standard M3 nuts (which is what this build was designed for, and only appears to be available from the US ). Guess which type of extruded 1515 I bought. The drop in nuts are expensive (£11.95 for 25) and since I need around 150 of the, this frame is going to be VERY expensive :-( I am thinking I may have to lo see if I can build it using 2020 extrusion, I've read that there are remixes that have done this. My other option is to design printed T-nuts for the extrusion, but not sure if there is enough room for captive M3 nuts for doingthis.

Can't find 1515 extrusions at my location. Alex, what about upcoming 2020 version?

there are a couple 2020 remixes. might give a look there. have you checked with openbeam and misumi?they both sell 1515 but cant say if they sell in your country.

please, can anyone send me any slicer config bundle file for importing optimized configurations for this printer? i'm finishing printing parts and will begin the assembling. [email protected]

thanks for this printer !!!

alex engineering pls

Alex could you tell me what was the torque on the motors you used? If you don´t know it can i have the model or the dimensions of the motor? Thanks!

believe he has said he used 52 or even 42. id go with anything above 60.

Would some one be willing to help me with firmware?

Any update on a version two? Also where does everyone buy 2020/1515 at the best price?

I get my extrusions from Misumi.

Version 2 is mostly complete as a CAD model; the only thing missing is the dual extruder design. I may not end up building it, but I'll upload the files to Thingiverse soon.

I would love to see the CAD model as is could you send me the files just to get some inspiration before I build a new printer? Thanks!

Misaim is a great vendor of extrusions. Very high quality. You can also get your rods from them!

i want to make Fusebox.
a circuit diagram how ?

There is a cad file which is made in sketch up that you can download.

Is the belt supposed to twist twice? Once from the motor and twice to the carriage? The carriage one seems totally unnecessary but the belt teeth on the carriage make it seem like that's how it's supposed to go.

The belt shouldn't need to twist at all. This printer uses a modified CoreXY layout where the belts are stacked so they don't even have to cross. The belt path should be similar to that on the SmartRapCore.

So the teeth on the belt can run on the smooth bearings?

Yep, there should be no problems or quality impacts running the teeth on them.

I am looking to start a build with this, in looking at the design, I was wondering if there's any chance you might consider desiging the print head carriage to carry the x endstop? it looks like the only thing that might be an issue, hanging off on one carriage.

The endstop works well enough. If you're getting started you may be interested in getting the majority of the BOM from me. Read more in this reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4nbdvh/fusebox_frame_hardware_and_parts_for_sale/

hasnt yours sold yet?

hi, i am building this great 3d printer with 15mm extrusion but i have some problem with z axis, the bearing banding when the lead screw move up or down. i use the small version m8 bearing from china , not great quality product :( . Of 12 i have, just 6 the move semi smooth. are the LM8LUU 45mm long version do the work better to go up and down .....

btw i just find out that somebody made a pla version of lm8luu
link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1412399 going to print a set and see how they go.

M8 Linear bearing (LM8LUU Drylin Hybrid)

Yep, I switched over to the longer bearings because they're smoother and have less banding. I recommend you get some for the z axis instead of using the shorter bearings.

I've pretty much finished building mine, but how is the print cooling fan mounted to the fan duct?

I drilled holes all the way through the duct. There's two duct remixes though. I'm using the blower one now. It's not perfect, but it's better.

Try this. I created it for this exact printer. Works really well.


FuseBox 1515 hot end blower nozzle
by dgcaste

dgcaste, what kind of fan are you using with your blower nozzle?

I have not updated this design since I moved to a much better machine, the MZBot VORON CoreXY

Jun 7, 2016 - Modified Jun 7, 2016
rmrf - in reply to ThatPlayer

With a duct tape. I mean I don't know either. m3 bolts are too big and do not fit. I ended up cutting fan duct from paper and doing origami stuff then using double sided glue tape to attach fan to the carriage. Before I figure out something better.

PS: check the blower fan duct setup (below in the comments)

Comments deleted.

Hi, what software did you use to design this printer? thanks!

My extruder doesn't always push the amount of filament requested because the MK8 slips on the plastic. I even put three binder clips and the problem persists. What I end up with is with uneven extrusion and extremely brittle parts. Is this normal for this extruder?

Check that your motor does not skip. If it skips, increase the current using pot on the driver. Also make sure you have calibrated DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT (if you using Marlin) value for your extruder.

When using HBLTBS3 part from Misumi, M3x6 bolts are too short http://imgur.com/lJDE363 They need to be replaced by M3x8 bolts. For 10 x HBLTBS3 you will need 20 x M3x8 bolts. Please add this to the wiki.

im wondering if you could counter sink 2 mm?

I am not sure what is "counter sink". Do you mean something like this? http://www.apexinds.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/counterbore.jpg That would require to bore HBLTBS3 part. It is easier to buy M3x8 bolts

thats exactly what countersink or counterbore means. easier but not as expedient. good you posted that though so others will know.

Yet another question... How do I attach the glass bed? I have all of the parts and everything else is done, but I can't figure it out...

For the heated bed version, just use binder clips to attach it to the PCB heater.

What about for the non heated one?

There are 4 clips included in the SketchUp file that each screw into one of the 4 bed mounting bolts. The bed then clips onto the flat part of those pieces.

you selling kits?

if you look back you will find a link to my BOM that lists part#'s and prices.

Who else is finding that the print cooler is inadequate? I had to use a small fan in order to not hit the belts when Y is maxed out, and only 30% or so of the fan output is directed into the fan duct. My prints have to go really slow otherwise the plastic is still hot from the last layer.

My build is 95% complete and on hold for IRL stuff, so I haven't tried printing yet. I am worried about the cooling fan since it seems about half blocked. Maybe you can set your print bed area smaller and use a larger fan. Or use a different kind of fan, like this one. I'm thinking about redesigning the shroud to match the "sharp nozzle" based on this research.

Blower fan to 40 mm fan mount (fits 50x15 mm blower fans)
May 4, 2016 - Modified May 4, 2016
dgcaste - in reply to phord

I'm working on a blower setup that will allow for a sharp nozzle while keeping the same low profile. Already done modeling the fan, hardest part is making it mate with the existing carriage as I really don't want to have to redesign it. I should be done in a few days though, if you're interested: https://imgur.com/a/avtrJ

That's the right direction. :-) Will you be posting the files somewhere?

I'm thinking it should be part of the carriage, though. So the carriage would have to be redesigned/reprinted. I want to redesign the belt clamps, anyway, so...

I uploaded the files. Check the remix: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1581910

FuseBox 1515 hot end blower nozzle
by dgcaste

It's finished. I don't have time to integrate it into the carriage in a way that I can print without supports, so it'll have to be like this for now. It probably has one fastener too many and needs some tweaks but it works pretty well for me. Also note that it'll cut down your max Y travel by a few mm. I won't have time to put it on thingiverse for a few days but give me an email address and I'll send you the STLs, or if you want SolidWorks I can do that too.

dont know if you read the posts about using this type of setup for cooling over on reprap.org. check it out and read the analysis of cooling fans and designs

anyone using a drag chain on their fusebox?

Apr 26, 2016 - Modified Apr 26, 2016

The trick with the belt path is pretty simple once you have the frame assembled. Two key points:

  1. There is an upper belt and a lower belt. There are upper and lower idlers. There is an upper and a lower pulley. There are upper and lower belt attachments on the carriage.
    The upper belt threads through the upper idlers and around the right motor and attaches to the upper attachments on either side of the carriage.
    The lower belt threads through the lower idlers and around the left motor and attaches to the lower attachments on either side of the carriage.

  2. The pulley on the right motor goes on "upside down" so it sits about 12mm higher than the one on the left motor. It should align with the upper idler bearings.

When I say "right" and "left", I mean this: as you are facing the printer from the front as in the videos, the motor on your right is the upper belt drive and the motor on your left is the lower belt drive. I think this matches all the "right" and "left" printed parts names, but I haven't checked.

I'm trying to make my fusebox, but the x carriage is being very complicated to print

you need good cooling or those ears for the fan will break off. you can try my remix. measure the thickness of your belt. mine was 1.8mm from tooth to spine and the original was too narrow to work. i also modified the fan mounts to make them a little more easier to deal with. you should also print these without support and the flat side down for the belts.

tank you, I willl try tomorrow

Just ran into one more problem, I'm trying to set up the belt and having a lot of trouble figuring it out based on the sketchup model... Also, is it supposed to use an open belt or closed one?

where you able to figure the belt routing out? i am back from california and can help if needed

Pictures would be nice. I think I have an idea now, but I wanna make sure I dont screw it up

check the added image in my modified carriage. i marked the belts red being the top and yellow being the bottom. paint isnt my thing. thankfully inventor and sketchup draws straight lines for me.

thanks, that helped a lot!

i will upload a picture to my remix of the carriage. just remember you have a top belt and bottom belt. i had to flip one of my cog's on the top belt to make the gear the right distance.

open belt. once you go to putting it together it will make sense. i am at work and will be traveling so cant take any pictures until sunday when i get back

The extruder heatsink fan (the one on top mounted at an angle) should have a provision on the mount holes to fit an M3 nut. When I thread my M3's through the fan and into the carriage they're too loose, which leaves the fan to rattle around. Anyone come up with a solution for this?

I mounted mine with zip ties. Worked great.

Ninjaflex (or similar) gasket for the fan face or fan corners (like noctua fans)

I just built a modified version of this and am having an issue where the printer tries to home to the rear right corner of the machine.

Have you had this issue before?

what software are you using?

Repetier firmware and Repetier Host.

I will admit that this is my first serious go at Repetier firmware, but I uploaded _AlexY's config file to the firmware config tool so I see no reason why I am having this error!

Apr 18, 2016 - Modified Apr 18, 2016
pen25 - in reply to orangefurball

looks like there is two spots to set homing. first page and second page. and make sure your end stops are in the right locations on the board

in rep_host. you can tell it where you want it to home by going into the printer settings. +p. go to the printer tab then you can tell it the park position. for home though you have to define the position. i will have to look at the config tool again. i havent completed my build yet but did go in and configure my board. let me try that again

Annnd it's working again! After 17 total firmware iterations it is homing properly! Now only dual extruder calibration!

Ah! Looks like I have come a step closer!

So usually the origin will be in the front left, but in this case the machine thinks that the rear right side is the origin.

So basically if I turn the machine around and look at it from the back, it is in the proper spot. Any ideas on how to basically reverse everything?

Awesome, would the Y axis need to be in the max or min position on the board? I tried both and it didn't help, but I still am trying to figure out the homing on this bot.

You use an M5x25 for the carriage bolts through the bearings, but it seems like they're too long for the bearings in the corner brackets since they're offset. I would update the BOM to go with 4 M5x20 bolts. Probably not a big deal though, I'll find out soon enough when I thread the belt!

This is a really silly question, but how do you connect the parts to the aluminum extrusions? I know you use the screws, but how do you get them to stay in place? I'm kind of a noob when it comes to building things like this...

What billion said. The issue is that you have to slide the nuts in before you assemble the frame, there's no way to put them in after the edges are covered which happens to several of these extrusions.

haha I learned this the hard way too

With the 15x15 extrusions, you can use m3 nuts to secure the screws to the frame.

In the videos there are little risers attached to the bed mounts and the bed is clipped onto these risers. I don't see these risers in the STL files. Are we expected to customized to fit our own bed arrangement?

Nevermind. Now that I've assembled the bed carriage, I can see how the traditional bed supports fit the in place just like in the main picture above.

Comments deleted.

Hello Alex, u could pass the Firmware (marlin)?

think you might have to modify marlin. since he is using rep-host fw. i just went through and flashed my megatronics to see how it works out. as i have a heated bad and a lead screw i had to change a few things

Comments deleted.

I built one of these, I love it. I noticed one thing, My table leans, while i'm able to level the bed regardless of the lean, what can be done to take this lean out? I used a tr8*8 stepper/leadscrew combo, but I was thinking about using belts to move the table and adding a second set of 8mm smoothrods to the front. Any ideas?

Yeah, mine is leaning quite a bit front side down as well. I've reprinted the z braces once already a few months ago, but it didn't seem to help. I'm going to try printing them again and see how that goes. Will report back if there's any improvement.

rp1 - in reply to rp1

I finally got around to reprinting the z braces nice and clean. The lean is pretty much corrected. I'm actually very surprised that it's made that much of a difference!

It's also made a difference to how tight the hold is on the table arms. There was some play with the old braces so I had to re-level the bed before every print. With the new z braces I haven't had to re-level the bed at all!

how is it leaning? on the front side down? how much weight do you have on it? i havent got my 1/4" thick mic6 aluminum plate yet but id check to make sure everything is secure and try to find where the slop is at

Pretty sure because I printed most of these parts on my delta before I was up and running I had problems with things being the exact size they needed to be. I'm reprinting the z braces today and will report back with results. :)

reprinting the z braces fixed my table lean, I essentially boot strapped my way to a nice printer lol! Thanks so much for posting this printer Alex!!!!

Mine leans, too, but I haven't looked to see where yet. The left support seems like it's a mm or two too low. My prusa is pretty well dialed in, but I notice my parts are thicker than they should be (holes and gaps are too narrow). It was a real challenge fitting the z-brace in place.

Could you tell what the actual difference was between your first supports and your new ones?

Comments deleted.

I just noticed that 1.4 includes labels in Sketchup to help with assembly. I still haven't seen those since Sketchup doesn't run on Linux. But I labeled the extrusion lengths in FreeCad and put screenshots on the wiki here: http://reprap.org/wiki/FuseBox#Version_1.4

Maybe Sketchup screenshots would look better. Mine are pretty rough.

i think i uploaded the stl in the reprap forum post with the labels. might have been a pdf. didnt think about adding them to the wiki

getting closer to completion. ordered mic6 tooling plate for the bed. a couple wiring sets. going to try the m3 screw in thermisters for e3d's i found on ebay. and a powersupply. have a ton of pc powersupplies but i figured i would get the normal one. should have this thing up and running this weekend or so

I can't make the extruder_pin print cleanly. Maybe I can if I switch nozzles and go slow, but I haven't tried that yet. I can't tell what I need to do because I can't see where this part is used. Is it needed at all?

It holds the 625 bearing in place on the extruder arm. If having issues, increase print cooling or print at a slightly lower temperature/speed.

I don't usually print PLA and I've never had a cooling fan. I slowed down a lot, added a "loosie" fan and got a nice peg printed. Thanks for the tips.

Are there t-nuts for 1515 extrusions? Using M3 nuts is a pain in the ass :)

yes. you can get them at misumi

Comments deleted.

Hi, not sure if I'm missing something obvious or whether my downrev parts are the problem, but how do you adjust the Z-endstop trigger distance? I'm mounting a MK3 heatbed with springs about half an inch above the Z extrusion pieces. Thanks.

Mar 30, 2016 - Modified Apr 13, 2016

I experimented with rebuilding the x-carriage in OpenScad and got carried away. It's not quite right yet, but it's mostly parametric.
Now on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1470510

Fusebox mods in OpenScad
by phord

just uploaded the modified carriage using the latest update from alex. this allows the use of 1.8mm thick belts.

i just uploaded an updated carriage that fits my 1.8mm thick belts and i modified the fan mount so i can get my play to print the ears without them breaking. i have a couple more things i have modified and am printing them before i upload them


fusebox carriage mod for 1.8mm thick belts
by pen25

I am going to have to check. But this was based off the original carriage. I'll download the updated one and check it

Stupid question -- but what's the part that's interfacing with the M8 threaded rod to push the cantilevered bed? I'm ordering parts now and want to make sure I have it all. Also, would you recommend using a leadscrew instead, or a precision threaded rod from Misumi?

It's just a normal M8 nut. A leadscrew would probably be more consistent, but you'd need a redesigned z nut mount.

I don't see an M8 nut in the BOM. What did you use to design the machine? I have solidworks and can edit your part if I had the source.

If you look at the remix there is a redesigned part that uses a tr8 nut and rod

Added, thanks.
I used Sketchup for the design, and the skp is in the thing files. Check out the remixes of this thing, I think I saw a design for a leadscrew nut mount.

Mar 22, 2016 - Modified Mar 22, 2016

The E3D Lite6 is rated to lower speeds because of the reduced melt zone and according to E3D maxes out at about 50mm/sec. Would you recommend using the E3D v6? Have you run the Lite6 at 100-150mm/sec?

Yep, I've successfully used the Lite6 past 150mm/s. At layer heights 0.2mm and under, it should be fine for high speed printing. The v6 will be good if you want to get a bit more speed out of the printer or print with higher temperature materials. It's also lighter, meaning that acceleration can be set slightly higher.

If I were to add to four inches to each extrusion and rods, belt ect. Would this give me the 300x300x300mm build platform? Would it still be stable?

I'm not concerned about the heater size. My 30 x 30 in uses one 214mm sq heat pad under a 15x15 inch aluminum plate under a 40x48 frosted glass panel and it works just fine.


you would be better off scaling the entire printer 50% then measure each length. if you went to a larger size the cost difference is minimal to jump up to the 2020 design and just make it even bigger. you can still use the 300mm bed but gives you future proofing

Which nema 17 motors will work for this?

Anything that'll work on other printers like the Prusa i3 should work. I'm using 76 oz-in steppers, but motors with less torque should also work. Choose more powerful motors if you want to print faster.

Anyone got an idea where you could mount a Z probe? I recently got a BLTouch and currently have no idea how to attach it to the carriage

take the existing carriage and try to mash up an existing bltouch mount with the carriage. shouldnt be too difficult to do

Anyone else having issues with the extruder/hotend?

I'm not sure if it's the E3d Lite6 that's the problem for me or something else, but I find that if I print with any speed at all, I get a lot of gaps in my print. I'm down to 40-50mm/s for a decent print. I can run it at 100mm/s and it prints okay as long as there aren't any surfaces more than a couple of mm wide. If it's all thin walls, it's mostly fine. But flat surfaces, especially with with solid infill, require me to slow down to below 50mm/s to prevent gaps. Any advice?

Also, I'm having a lot of trouble keeping that little "threaded bowden coupling" attached in place in the Extruder Body. I ended up having to tie-wrap it n place so that the filament can be pushed through with it popping off. Anybody else have issues with it?

This sounds a bit like the issues I was having. It turned out to be a cooling issue with the hot end. You can easily test this: if you (carefully!) touch the lower cooling rims of the hot end and they're (very) hot to the touch, that's probably the issue or contributing to it. I designed this part to improve the cooling: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1749897

e3d-lite6 cooling tube for Fusebox 1.4
by dotCID

Depending on how well the extruder parts were printed, it might be good to hot glue the coupling into the extruder body, which holds it in place but still allows it to be removed if needed. You can make the extruder push with more force by adding more binder clips for tension. Also, try manually pushing filament in and ensure there isn't too much resistance, and make sure your temperature isn't too low.

Mar 2, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016

There is a lot to like about the Fusebox, I like the design a lot.

One thing has been nibbling at me; What was the motivation for using Misumi 1515 extrusions? At first I thought must have been lower cost, but when I priced it out 2020 extrusions were only a few cents more per leg. Is 2020 just overkill and not needed for stiffness or stability?

It seems like there would be advantages to going to the more standard 2020 size - easier to find materials and parts, more easily re-usable, stronger frame.

I chose the 1515 because the fasteners are much cheaper, since you can just use standard M3 nuts and bolts; I couldn't find a cheap source of fasteners for 2020 extrusions since they don't accept standard hex nuts.

they do accept standard nuts. and the stamp econo nuts arnt that expensive. i like that 1515 extrusion as it proves the 2020 is overkill for a small printer such as this. also reduces the foot print

Mar 1, 2016 - Modified Mar 1, 2016

I ran across an updated part using a flanged lead screw nut. Might take a look and incorporate it? I know I will print it out and see how it works out


FuseBox CoreXY 3D Printer - ZNutMount for trapezoidal nut

Nice work on the carriage. Thanks for that.

I appreciate how much you've done to make these parts printable. I was impressed with how clean my carriage print turned out, and I was surprised how smoothly the zip-ties fed through their slots. I thought those embedded tie guides were kind of gimmicky when I examined the STL originally but it was easy to use in the end and nicely aligned. It's clear you've put a lot of time into perfecting the details on this project. Nice job so far!


rp1 - in reply to phord

I must agree with phord. The time and effort spent by you (_AlexY) is truly appreciated. I'm really enjoying my printer. Thanks again!

Hello. thanks for the project.

I just ride my fusebox now.

I'm in trouble on Z he is soft and worn forward.

Can someone help me?

The fan duct is not attached to the heat sink on the hot end. Have you had any melt-zone problems like this? Have you tried ducting the high-mounted cooling fan so it is more directed around the heat sink like the e3d design?

I've been having issues with the filament getting jammed and not feeding through properly. According to E3D's website, the leading cause for this issue is improper cooling off the heat sink. I've used kapton tape to close up the gaps and direct all the air from the fan to the heat sink. I'm going to see if that helps. It's too bad the hot end mount can't accommodate the E3D fan duct.

As I mentioned above, I designed a cooling duct that can help with this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1749897
With this I can now print without having jamming issues, even on hot days.

e3d-lite6 cooling tube for Fusebox 1.4
by dotCID

Looks like it will help the issue. I'll print one and try it out when I get a few minutes. Thanks!

I'm doing a little improvement experiment, so if you don't need it immediately it might be worth the wait! I'll know later tonight whether it works.

Sounds good. I'll wait. :)

I haven't had problems with the Lite6, since the fan is optional for it. The orientation of the fan means that most of the air is directed towards the heatsink even without a duct so cooling is adequate.

Hey Alex, love the design i am at the end of assembling the printer. The thing is i would like to have a direct drive instead of bowden, can you please recommend a setup to print or will it be very hard to adapt the existing designs and should i make my own. Thank you again i will be posting the final build and i am thinking of making a case from lazer cutted plywood i will be releasing the files here.

A fan cooling the heatsink is not optional, it's required. Otherwise it'll cause jams, especially with PLA, like rp1 stated above. Straight from the lite6 directions, "The heatsink must be cooled! Heated chambers, fan ducts that restrict flow, and not having the fan running at 100% at all times are common causes of issues. The bottom 2-3 fins of the heatsink are designed to run a little bit warm, but the rest of the heatsink should run at near-ambient temperature."

It's not clear from the sparse notes here, but I believe the M5 locknut is a nylon locking nut. I assume it is used to hold the idler gears so the nut should be locked in place without being too tight. Is that right?

I found that if I tightened the locknuts too much, it constrained the belts a bit, so I loosened them a bit and the belts move freely now.

Yes. I confirmed this by careful observation of the close-up shots in the videos. The various m3 lengths remain a mystery to me.

Also, here's my BOM pricing result: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IyFk6RLpv31LJOiBHYhcBCkHe5YWmlYAqJey3V09G8k/edit?usp=sharing
My total is about $250, but $30 of that is power supply, which I have already, so I'm in for just $220. I think I'll build two.

Hey phord, one more question. Did you cut the smooth rods down to size from the prusa pack?

I also have found that the holes meant to hold the rods are all very tight and the tolerances are miniscule. I've drilled out the holes to fit the rods better, but it's still tight. So I also tapered the end of my rods on a grind wheel.

No, because I forgot to include them in my order. But I already have some 1000mm rods, and I did cut those down.

What are the n=# in the notes for your screws mean?

That's the actual quantity of screws I ordered for that price. So when I needed 150 screws but the bag of 250 was cheaper than 6 bags of 25, I ordered the bag of 250. We use "n=" or "qty" when dealing with our suppliers at work. I forget how weird it looks to everyone else. :-)

Apr 11, 2016 - Modified Apr 11, 2016
billioncash - in reply to phord

Another quick question, you have a 300mm lead screw referenced in the BOM, did you cut it down to 250mm?

RobotDigg does not offer the lead screw in 250mm lengths. I don't have my Fusebox built yet, so I can't say for sure what I will do about this. I have three options:

  1. Leave it alone because it's ok if it protrudes an extra 2 inches above the bot. There's nothing above the leadscrew anyway.
  2. Cut it off; I'll probably place the cut end in the z-motor coupler since the rough cut may cause the threads to bind on the nut.
  3. Use a pre-cut 250mm leadscrew I found on eBay**.

** I actually had a small problem with my RobotDigg order. When the screw arrived there was no brass nut included. I thought I must have read the item description wrong, but it turned out the kind folks at RobotDigg simply omitted them by mistake. When I asked them about it they shipped me the missing nut immediately, and it arrived about 8-10 days later. During my initial confusion I found I could get a 250mm lead screw from eBay for about $10 shipped in just a couple of days. So I ordered one from there, too. (They have a 250mm option even though the listing title doesn't say so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Lead-Screw-Threaded-Rod-w-Nut-T8-Trapezoidal-ACME-Stepper-200-300-400-cut-/322001202765)

I looked at that exact one too! Thanks!

Got a question, have you figured out why 1515 Extrusion 250mm cost more than 1515 Extrusion 300mm?

I assumed it was because they have 300mm as a stock item. But that doesn't jive with the other lengths. It's like they have some base "per-unit" price and then charge per mm for extra length. All the 300mm+ lengths are $0.13 per mm. But 250mm is twice that much ($0.27/mm), and 152mm is three times as much ($0.44/mm). It's crazy!

It's only a few bucks, though, and I'd rather pay the extra to get clean ends than to cut it myself and make it ugly.

I found that it was easier to use M3x8mm instead of M3x6mm for a few of the trickier attachments. It made it easier to connect them to the nut. I bought about 30 of the 8mm screws and used almost all of them.

The locknut can be tightened fully since the point where it clamps down is the stationary portion of the bearing; I used them so they would be less likely to loosen over time due to vibration.

Just started ordering parts, very excited to build this!

I am planning to buy quality components from misumi. I would aprecciate some comments.

HFS3-1515-380 x 4 (alu extrusion) - 6.52€
HFS3-1515-330 x 2 (alu extrusion) - 2.82€
HFS3-1515-345 x 4 (alu extrusion) - 5.92€
HFS3-1515-300 x 2 (alu extrusion) - 2.58€
HFS3-1515-250 x 2 (alu extrusion) - 4.80€
HFS3-1515-152 x 1 (alu extrusion) - 2.40€
HFS3-1515-386 x 2 (alu extrusion) - 3.30€
HBLTBS3 x 10 (brackets) - 7.50€
LMUW8 x 6 (linear bearings) - 30.24€
PSFJ8-300 x 6 (smooth rods) - 47.28€
MTSRA8-250-S10-Q6 x 1 (lead screw) - 21.00€
MTSFR8 x 1 (lead screw nut) - 9.70€
CPL12-5-6 x 1 (coupler) - 19.30€
GPA20GT2060-A-H5 x 2 (pulleys) - 26.36€
GBN9942GT-60 x 2 (belt) - 13.20€

Feb 12, 2016 - Modified Feb 12, 2016
Culain - in reply to rmrf

you can get a leadscrew with nut on ebay for around 10€ from hong kong
like this one http://www.ebay.de/itm/3D-Printer-8mm-Lead-Screw-Rod-Z-Axis-Linear-Rail-Bar-Shaft-100-to-600mm-Nut-T8-/321843276976?var=&hash=item4aef5aacb0:m:mYiBNKcjMpXEE5OO6GRi1xg

Edit: misumi seems pretty expensive. you get most of the stuff for less on ebay or similar.

I'm actually in Canada, so for me ordering from Misumi directly works out a bit cheaper (when you factor in shipping) and much quicker.

I went with a standard threaded rod and nut, and it seems to be working fine, but I'll know better once the printer is fully operational.

That's a good option for those who doesn't want to spend a lot on misumi stuff. Nice!

rp1 - in reply to rmrf

I'm not sure you need the MTSRA8-250-S10-Q6 with the smooth (stripped) part. The fully threaded rod works well in the coupling, but I don't think it's a big issue.

The lead screw (MTSFR8) you have wont work in the Z-Nut Bar that Alex has here - you'll have to modify the design to accommodate it.

Also, I'm not certain about the belts you chose - if they are long enough, and if you will need to do anything to make them work in this design (I haven't installed my belts yet - that's going to be this weekend).

The rest of the parts look right to me... good luck with your build. It's a lot of fun! I'm hoping to have my printer completed this weekend. I can't wait to get my first print done!

rmrf - in reply to rp1

The MTSRA8-250-S10-Q6 is only slightly more expensive than MTSR8-250. I don't think it makes any noticeable difference but putting smooth part instead of threaded in the coupler seems a little cleaner to me.

I am aware that I need to modify the design for MTSFR8 but I believe lead screw + lead screw nut will work better than threaded rod + nut and will result in less z-wobble.

Good point about the belts! I just realised 1 meter of the belt might not be enough for 1 axis. Can you please check the exact lengths of the belts when you build your printer? Thank you and good luck for you too!

rp1 - in reply to rmrf

Hi rmrf. It looks like I'm needing about 1.25m per belt. So those belts may be a bit short.

rmrf - in reply to rp1


I don't think we need 4 Y Rod Mounts if we already have a Y Endstop Mount - because the endstop mount is a Y rod mount as well. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this. Thanks.

Did you forget to include z-nut in the BOM?

rp1 - in reply to rmrf

Yeah, the M8 nut wasn't included. Also, the Misumi MTSR8-250 threaded rod does have a standard (course) thread, so a regular M8 hex nut won't work with it. Just get a regular M8 course thread rod, and cut it to the length you need. An get a standard M8 nut.

How can I buy Misumi extrusions in europe? They seem only sell to companies :(

Their U.S. website is directed towards companies but you can still order parts for yourself, so I think their Europe site should be the same.

I am really impressed by the speeds this machine can do for the low price point. Thank you so much for the design! https://youtu.be/PQe81_D0Fqk

What is everyone using to slice these models? particularly the X-ends. Slic3r 1.2.9 gap fill issues are making it impossible to print these x ends strong enough. I've got the whole thing built but the one of the x ends just broke on me when tensioning belts. Are their any design changes coming to make the x ends and carriage easier to print?

Thanks in advance
Great design by the way

Try using Cura, or downgrading to an earlier version of Slic3r (1.0.1 and 1.1.7 work well for me).

I've strengthened the right side x-end in the new 1.4 version; it should be less likely to break now.

Most of these models are so bad that netfabb doesn't know how to fix them even o.O

I built the PrntQb v2 by Andy Carter (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:368902) But I like some of the parts in your design and think I will use them as upgrades for my printer.

PrntQB V2
Jan 13, 2016 - Modified Jan 13, 2016

Hi, I am getting a problem with the repetier firmware, when I compile, it says:
Arduino: 1.6.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino Mega ADK"

sketch/libraries/twi.c:1:17: fatal error: twi.c: No such file or directory
'#'include: twi.c

compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling.

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.


try using an older version of the Arduino IDE. 1.5.x should work.

Jan 13, 2016 - Modified Jan 13, 2016

Is the e3d v6 compatible with this, or is only the lite compatible, also are the bearing in the carriages held together with zip ties?


1.) The normal v6 has the same mounting system as the Lite, so they both work.
2.) Yes

Jan 12, 2016 - Modified Jan 13, 2016

Hello! Great printer! Can you answer some question?

  1. How build FuseBox with HeatBed? Or printer already with Heatbed (PCB Heatbed, 1)
  2. In this configuration possible print with WOOD filament ?
    Thank you)))

How many of the HBLTBS3 should be ordered?

Up to 10; use 8 of them to replace the corner brackets and plates on the x-axis and 2 of them to replace the corner brackets on the bed assembly. Alternatively, you can use 4 less of the metal brackets by leaving the bottom corner plates in place and only replacing the top corner brackets.

Jan 4, 2016 - Modified Jan 5, 2016

Can you mark in the description which extrusion lengths are for which axis/frame part/brace?

Also, could you export the sketchup file to .dae so I can open it in Blender? (My Linux system won't run sketchup)


STL of the whole thing is up now.

have you tried the stl viewer? i am not at home to be able to convert it

There's no stl of the whole thing; only the individual parts.

Jan 6, 2016 - Modified Jan 6, 2016
pen25 - in reply to evamvid

sorry you are correct. i was thinking sketchup viewer. have you tried to get sketchup to work under wine?


Jan 3, 2016 - Modified Jan 8, 2016

What slicer setting are you guys using I'm having a hard time tuning this thing

slicer settings is printer and filament specific. the x ends and the idlers i have been having trouble. i have upped my shells to 6 and upped my temp to 200 using inland pla. will see if this solves my ears breaking.

The Inland PLA I've tried seems to be quite a bit weaker than other types of filament; it's probably not as well suited for structural parts.

I already have if built I was trying to find out what slicer settings he uses with the fusebox (speed and what not)

For better quality I run it around 80-100 mm/s, but usually I'll print at 150mm/s+ at a .2mm layer height to save time. Travel speed is set to 300mm/s.

hey Alexy,

what is the difference between the _2014 and the unified sketchup assembly file?

The 2014 file is just in Sketchup 2014 format; otherwise, they're the same.

looks like a ton of interest.

i will say when i got the extrusions i was afraid i might have got shipped the wrong extrusions. it really is allot smaller than i was thinking. both in length and is cross section.

i am printing the parts out now and a couple are hard to get to print without breaking while removing like the x end pieces, i broke the left 2 times so make sure you arent pressing on the ears or they will break.

the rod mounts will need a brim. i am on my 4th time trying to get the last one printed. lol. cant wait to get it all printed out.

I haven't received my parts but your comment has been echoing in the back of my mind. "a lot smaller than I was thinking." Then I realized that the printer is just slightly larger than the build plate. My Prusa seems the same size to me, but there the build plate moves around so it seems larger than it is. Thinking of this machine in terms of build-plate sizes has helped me picture it better. :-)

After putting the frame together last night it's bigger then I had thought. And of course I got to thinking. I can Make this bigger if I only do this or that. Lol. When I ordered my extrusions I messed up and ordered 16 sticks of 500mm 2020. So I might have to look at scaling up

What material did you use to print most of the pieces, I understand that some need abs but since my printer cannot print ABS, I don't want to spend too much money on 3dhubs

Everything is in PLA. I guess the hotend carriage would be better in ABS, but I've had no issues so far with a PLA carriage. However, I haven't tried printing at ABS temperatures yet.

Alright, thanks!

Dec 31, 2015 - Modified Dec 31, 2015

Hey Alex, I am currently ordering parts for this printer, but I have not came across the proper power supply for this build, is there any way you can provide a link to the same power supply you used? It would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Also, I want to know if you could add a heated bed to this, and if you could print abs without the heated bed, I know it would have a higher chance of warp, but I would rather keep things simpler and just have a cool bed.

Also as a side note, how long was the longest print you have done? (12 hours or more?)

Any 12v power supply that provides around 20 amps or more should work; search "LED power supply" on eBay. Alternatively, a power supply from a desktop computer should work, if you happen to have one of those.

I think the longest print I've done on the printer was around 6 hours.

Dec 31, 2015 - Modified Dec 31, 2015
T1GGE - in reply to _AlexY

I have a computer power supply sitting around but it provides way more than 20 amps, will this fry the components? (Sorry if I sound like a noob, I only know how to build drones and computers, this is all very new to me!)

Generally, more powerful power supply will only do you good. BUT! BUT! It has to be the right voltage power supply. In this case (as you are starting out) you need a 12V power supply (computer PSU-s are 5V as 12V so you just need to use the right wires and you are good. You will not fry the components with a higher amp rating PSU, it will just make the PSU work less hard and it will run cooler. In other words PSU wont force more current into the system, it will only be able to supply more current if needed. Higher voltage (say 24V) would force more power into the system and fry your components.

Hopefully I helped you. But to be on the safe side, always use a multimeter and measure the voltage and polarity to be sure ;)

Dec 31, 2015 - Modified Dec 31, 2015
T1GGE - in reply to bssstudio

Alright, thanks! that was very helpful! Mine works but it provides multiple different volt outputs, 5v, 3.3v, 12v etc.

Will this be ok? Or do I need to get a more specific power supply? Thanks for the help and the nice info you gave earlier!

I think it should work, it might require some minor modifications though. Like for example to turn on the power (like the motherboard does when the PC is turned on).

I believe the yellow supply leads provide 12V (on an ATX power supply, yours may be different so please don't hold me liable if I say something wrong ;)) and black ones are for the ground.

I used similar ATX power supply to charge my quadcopter batteries. I tied together all yellow wires and all black wires to allow to user all the current from the PSU (to thin wires might burn out and cause a fire when subject to strong currents).

Alright, thanks! I won't hold you reliable :D

Dec 30, 2015 - Modified Dec 30, 2015

Hi, great work on this!!

I was just wondering if you'd be kind enough to upload the sketchup files in the 2014 format (I'm using linux and wine, and it's a nightmare/impossible getting sketchup 15/16 to work)?

Cheers, John

Can I use an e3d v6 hot end with this? I found a really cool fan design that resembles the ultimaker one. Thanks for the help

Yep, should work.

Comments deleted.

First of all, I would like to point out that this thing looks amazing! I really like the elegant way the corexy works and it is implemented. And the aluminum frame really looks rigid.

If I were to scale the printer, so that it would fit a 200mmx300mm heated bed, would I need to add any structural supports in the frame or use bigger (20x20) aluminum extrusions and perhaps 10mm or 12mm rods and bearings? I know that this would lead to basically redesigning the parts... maybe I will have time and motivation some day :)

I would also like to know what filament material did you use to print the parts for this printer. Some would recommend ABS as it is more durable, but I am skeptical because it is a bit flexible and it might have a negative effect on the frame rigidity. Should PLA work, as there are no major loads on the parts themselves or is it too brittle?

Hello Everyone I will let you know that I am currently working on building this FuseBox but using 2020 extrusions. I will post a Remix once everything is done.

AlexY Love the design

PLA should be fine for the brackets. For rigidity, the main thing causing wobbling is the printed brackets, as the extrusions themselves are very rigid. If you scale the printer bigger I'd recommend moving to 2020 extrusions, removing the diagonal braces and using metal corner brackets instead.

the metal brackets are one thing i will be ordering tomorrow.

BTW if anyone does scale this up to 2020 please let me know. i will have 16 sticks of 2020x800 mm sitting doing nothing

Comments deleted.

i have made a BOM with pricing and source info for what i ordered. there are a couple things highlighted that are not included in the fusebox stil on the sheet. this may help others source their parts with a rough estiment of what it will cost for most of the parts excluding motors and electronics.


The smooth rods you have added are 500MM rather than 300MM. Those still work for this?

They have to be cut down. As Alex said you can buy them to length. I just didn't want to be out looking all over and tried to limit my sources. Price difference is neglegable if you have a way of cutting them

You'll have to cut the rods to length, but I think you can find pre-cut 300mm bars for around $5 each on eBay.

Alex. looking through the stls. i am not seeing the file for the bed that has the nut and bearings attached. i am assuming this is the z braces attach the bearings according to the skp file but the bridge between the two is not in the downloads.

It's there now. I must've accidentally deleted it when updating the files.


no. thank you. was just going through and trying to make sure when the parts come in i will be ready to print. and this is one part i am going to have to print on the printer i will be using for parts since the play has a small build area

orders were just placed to build this. thx Alex. ordered from misumi trimcraft and folgertech i have several things with a two up i have will be used for the electronics and motors. i have an e3d so with those out of the way and no heated bed all in was 291.52 shipped. could have probably saved some money but im ok with the cost. again thank you and will post pics when i get it complete

i really like your printer!
im thinking about building one, but in my country we dont have 15x15 extrusions, so i will have to use 20x20, do you think it will be a problem?
and also i would like yo know if it will have any problems if i scal it, because i would like to have a 25x25cm heatedbed.

You will need to redesign some of the parts to fit the larger extrusions. If you use 2020 and use metal corner brackets instead of printed brackets, it'll be more rigid, so scaling bigger shouldn't be too much of a problem.

I'm starting from your own project and I am redesigning all using profiles 2020. I use angles in metal instead of printed ones, we need to see if the cost of those metal is lower than printed. I also want to increase the size of the press.

Alex, shouldn't there be 4 corner truss braces?

My mistake—it's fixed now.

Nice design i almost started to build but then i realized i cant get that 1515 alu profil.In my country we have only 3030 :( Could scaling some parts to 200% solve the problem?

I wouldn't recommend it; you'd have to find different screw sizes that may or may not match up, and the motor mounts would all be the wrong size.

I can not find the profile 15 x 15, using 20 x 20 will have the same problem of screws and supports?

Yes, you will need to modify some of the files to make it fit.

Nice design!!
I'm looking to make one. Do you mind sharing the firmware for the Arduino?

The printer uses standard Repetier or Marlin firmware. I'll upload the configuration files soon.

After the completion of the hardware, I'll upload pictures to show their support.

Need version of Carriage for E3D v6 and mk8 , it most frequently encountered hotend.
It will make more attractive the printer.

Do you plan to use dual extruder and inductive autolevel probe ?

I'm thinking about adding dual extrusion later on, possibly in a new version of this printer. As for inductive autoleveling, I don't think I'll add that because it's unneeded if you properly level your bed and puts more wear on the z-screw.

Nice design!

Is the aluminum extrusion used similar to this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231521046496 ?

Thank you!

The extrusion is 15x15mm instead of 10x10, similar to openbeams.

Will the OpenBeam extrusions work (instead of the Misumi)?

Comments deleted.

Yep, they'll work

Thanks :) It seems that you are not using T-Slot nuts in your design. How do you assemble the extrusions? Do you just drill through them and lock the bolts with a nut from the other side?
Would you recommend T-Slot nuts?

The extrusions are assembled using regular m3 nuts and bolts. The great thing about 1515 extrusions is that they don't need special t-slot nuts.

Great design !!!