Sliding Lid Box
35
Likes
389
Downloads
743
Views
Published on August 19, 2011
Description
Electronic project boxes always seem to be the wrong size, and it always seems harder than necessary to fit PCBs. This box is something I always wanted!
You can set the outside dimensions, wall thickness, up to three levels of PCB support, up to 2 pairs of screws and specify apertures in the top and one end.
Apertures are useful for button or switch access, LCD views, cables or LEDs.
Because the end of the box is open, maximum access is available, and both the PCBs and the Lid can slide in together.
The box has rounded side edges, which feel nice in the hand.
Updated to V1.1 21st August 2011, for better accuracy in larger wall thicknesses.
Updated to v1.2. See thingiverse.com/thing:13979
You can set the outside dimensions, wall thickness, up to three levels of PCB support, up to 2 pairs of screws and specify apertures in the top and one end.
Apertures are useful for button or switch access, LCD views, cables or LEDs.
Because the end of the box is open, maximum access is available, and both the PCBs and the Lid can slide in together.
The box has rounded side edges, which feel nice in the hand.
Updated to V1.1 21st August 2011, for better accuracy in larger wall thicknesses.
Updated to v1.2. See thingiverse.com/thing:13979
Instructions
Set the outside dimensions on lines 9 to 11. All dimensions are in millimeters. Further down you can specify the PCB supports you want, and the screw positions. The other thing you may most often change will be the wall thickness, WallT on line 30, and there is an option for a reinforcing ridge across the open end of the box base on line 34 ('Ridge'. if you are printing a wide box with a thin wall this might be useful).
To create apertures, add module calls to the modules HoleInEnd and HoleInLid, copying the comments there. Small holes, and screw holes, I believe are better drilled rather than printed.
This prints well in PLA, I haven't tried ABS. What might seem like odd orientation for printing has been chosen to avoid support structures.
I've been working on a ToM, and so only relatively small boxes can be printed in one hit. Printing on the ABP gives a rather odd glossy finish to the downward faces as well as a certain puckering, but on the HBP and Blue Tape it's matt and very flat.
Edit the code in the 'View/Render' section to print either Box, Lid or both.
(If folk think I should print the screw holes please feed back. Generally I've found small RP holes to be ugly!)
To create apertures, add module calls to the modules HoleInEnd and HoleInLid, copying the comments there. Small holes, and screw holes, I believe are better drilled rather than printed.
This prints well in PLA, I haven't tried ABS. What might seem like odd orientation for printing has been chosen to avoid support structures.
I've been working on a ToM, and so only relatively small boxes can be printed in one hit. Printing on the ABP gives a rather odd glossy finish to the downward faces as well as a certain puckering, but on the HBP and Blue Tape it's matt and very flat.
Edit the code in the 'View/Render' section to print either Box, Lid or both.
(If folk think I should print the screw holes please feed back. Generally I've found small RP holes to be ugly!)
License
More from jman
So's I trying to build a box for a BlinkM and coin batteries when I realize that I still suck at 3D design and have this great idea to look at Thingiverse to see if there is a suitable box there. This would be when I came across your box and suddenly want to buy you a beer! I'm not an expert with OpenSCAD (yet), but I am a coder so the well commented code was very easy to follow. First draft of the box is printing now. Thanks - you literally saved me hours of effort!
Cool. Pls post a photo.
Did you check out the update, with star shaped screw holes?
(thingiverse.com/thing:13979).