Pocket Coin-Op Bottle Opener

by br3ttb, published

Pocket Coin-Op Bottle Opener by br3ttb Aug 25, 2011

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(Note: There's now a better, tapered version. I recommend that you print this instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12348)

I was ashamed Thingiverse. So ashamed. I presented the Mighty Bottle Opener as the pocket equivalent to Starno's Coin-Op. It wasn't. It isn't. I just wasn't able to find a reliable way to protect the plastic.

It works really well if printed in PLA, but for the vast majority of users it's an annoying chewed-up mess.

WELL NO MORE! After months of self recrimination, I went back to the drawing board, and have come back with a beefier "church key" design.

Two things that make me confident in this design:
1 - I've used it to open several bottles with ease. (Gasp!)
2 - I took the time to make the model fully parametric. If it's not strong enough for you, you can make it 10 inches thick! (not recommended)

Another benefit to the parametric model is that it can be adjusted to fit the coin of your choice. (See the attached image for some of what can be specified. When I say "fully parametric" I mean FULLY)

Mighty Opener: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9350
Starno's Coin-Op: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842

UPDATE: I've added the ability to sexify the opener with a makerbot M. Just set the "UseBadge" flag in the scad. if you'd like to use an M in your own OpenSCAD part, I've broken out the module I used to draw my M into its own thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11105

UPDATE #2: These things make great gifts. With a little tweaking you can print a custom design instead of the M. I've detailed the process here: http://brettbeauregard.com/blog/2011/09/making-a-custom-bottle-opener/


There's really only one thing to watch out for with this design. Because the slot is parallel to the build platform there's a long gap that needs to get bridged by plastic
1- Rotate the part such that the first layer above the opening runs across from plastic to plastic
2- If you're getting sagging/drooping, see the discussion below regarding bridge settings

A note about fill: I set the fill ratio on my thingomatic to 0.9, which is essentially 100%. Because of the relative thinness of the part, this isn't the time to skimp on plastic.

Coin Insertion: It had not occurred to me that people might try to insert the coin by pausing mid-print. Apparently this works, but it's not what I do. After printing I slide the penny into the slot as far as I can. then using a pair of pliers (one jaw on the penny, the other on the short edge of the opener,) I squeeze the penny in the rest of the way.

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Printer this out, put the penny in and tried it on a Coke bottle. First time and it cracked where the penny was. It looks like there isn't enough plastic around where the penny sits for it to take the pressure of opening the bottle. Wish it worked better. Liked the design.

Printed well. I have just opened two bottles, but to be a proper test I must open many many more. Naturally, I wouldn't leave all those open bottles around. I must empty them first before recycling them. O:-)

Excellent! can I ask why you printed this version instead of the tapered one? (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12348)http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

it's great that people love this one too, but I feel that the tapered one is better. I think I'm missing something.

Tapered Pocket Coin-Op
by br3ttb

Scratched my head for awhile since none of the designs or the copies/variations discussed what to do with the penny. Seems to me that's a fairly integral part of this design: when to insert it. After reading everyone's bridging issues I'm thinking it's simply slid in as the last step but luckily I wasn't smart enough to think that far in advance so I simply paused the print at the halfway point (which I only knew when it started the 1st layer across the "bridge" part), inserted the penny into the soft ABS, then let it go on about its business. Here's how mine turned out.

I thought just like you... =]

sorry about that. I've updated the instructions section

Awesome thing. Forced me to confront my bridging issues and conquer them! Thanks for the cool tool!

I made a bunch and the first 2 I have tried just broke. The plastic around the penny de-laminated and broke apart.

Printed on a ToM at 0.75 infill.


I misspoke. I went and looked at the profile I've been using and the infill is set to 0.9, not 0.75. I've edited my instructions accordingly.

there may still be some other settings that are causing the de-lamination, but hopefully this takes care of it

Works much better in PLA!

Guess I should do some more testing on the ABS front though.

PLA broke too. Maybe I need better settings.

Or you need to finally reveal yourself to have superhero strength!

..but yes. probably the settings.

Wasn't me guv! I have printed one thats 2mm thicker overall, going to see if that works.

I found the answer to my own question. Most of the settings you need to tweak can be found on the bridge calibration page: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5011http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Honing my settings now :)
I'll re-post when I get it nailed down.

Skeinforge Bridge Calibration Cube

I'm at a complete loss as to how you printed over that gap. What does the "opener's short axis" mean? Did you use support material? See the picture...


aw, that's no fun. the TOM I'm using has no problem printing over long gaps so long as it's in a straight line and there's support at both ends of the run. in your picture that would be along the left-right axis.

it looks like that's what you were doing though, so there's got to be something different in our settings. I'm not all that good at that stuff. I'm using a Hackerspace TOM, and for calibration I rely on people who know what they're doing.

does anyone else have an idea as to what would cause thi
s? speed? temperature? cosmic rays?

I found the answer to my own question on the "Skeinforge Bridge Calibration Cube" page:


After I get my settings dialed in, I'll post any information I found useful (and pics, cuz we all love pics)

Skeinforge Bridge Calibration Cube

On the fourth try, with Bridge Flow Rate = 0.3 and Bridge Feed Rate = 1.7, success.

Now to actually print the bottle opener so I can impress my geek friends with how stylishly I get my buzz on.

Thanks for this question Jynx, and for the solution. I've updated my instructions above.

side note: before I saw this resolution I saw your "I made one" picture. my first reaction was: "did he actually try to make it 10 inches thick? no wait..."

nice. i love me a good bottle opener design. :)

I couldn't have done it without you! Idea to use a penny? Yours. Makerbot? Yours.

Thanks Zach.

Well done, sir! This looks great

thanks! it'll never be as solid as yours, but it should manage to get the job done.

Your consideration for those of us with other currencies is greatly appreciated! Aussie, Aussie, Aussie! Oi, Oi, Oi! :-D

If you check out my things there is a "no coin bottle opener" that I made because I don't live in the US either :)

br3ttb - in reply to

your design looks really nice! two things:

-does the plastic get chewed up?  that's the reason I used a coin.
-I designed this in openscad specifically so you could make it work with any small coin.  just look for "//Coin Size and position" and change the radius and thickness.  that's it!

I designed it so i wouldn't, the plastic will of course get worn with some time, but it will hold for a good long time, ss long as you set the infill to 100% it won't break. :)

just another sign of the continued devaluation of US currency ;)

Yes, thank you br3ttb. It works a charm with an Aussie 5c piece when scaled to 108%!