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Solidoodle Jigsaw Replacement Extruder mk5

by lawsy, published

Solidoodle Jigsaw Replacement Extruder mk5 by lawsy Jul 1, 2013

Description

An updated version that makes several improvements:

- Locking arm to prevent extruder wobble
- New and improved stronger tension arm
- New accessory mounting system which is cleaner and stronger
- Redesigned and streamlined filament guide to prevent filament accidentally escaping and allowing easier access for filament drive cleaning
- Improved built in support section for largest part for cleaner printing
- Added boss for left hand limit screw (to suit my replacement carriages)
- Revised mounting holes to allow greater compatibility with hot ends (should be compatible with E3D all metal hot end)

*Update 1: End stop screws widened to ensure E3D hot end fitment. Thanks to OzAdr1an for testing.*

*Update 2: Bevelled edge body variant added thanks to 2n2r5. THis is to suit Printrbot hot ends or if you are having a hard time fitting your hot end.*

*Update 3: Filament guide replaced with pre-prepared version from foofoodog, should now slice for everyone.*

Recent Comments

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To answer my own question, yes, if you Frankenstein it a bit. Use no bolt to hold lock arm, use accessory mount to block it in, though friction is probably good enough. No top left bolt in filament guide, it's too long, right one alone is sufficient but still too long and it backs out fan screw some when socked up. After that you even have some M3 cap and hex heads left over.
Thinking this thing might even be made more minimalist. Locking arm might be omitted and accessory mount beefed up and re-shaped some to take its place. Filament guide might be chopped off since left hole is not really required. Don't really need end stops on both sides and don't really need a bolt hole for the right one, just a bump.
I have had a couple of sets of these printed out and in storage for some time but I have been limping along with a pair of the glass ones from the vendor and rebuilding them as needed then one finally disintegrated. Now I am not sure how I ever got along without tool less hot end replacement and an accessible filament path.
For you flexi folks it looks like there might be room to mount a lower guide coming off of the locking arm bolt, or maybe integrated into the accessory mount, if you think that will help.
I'm getting the same thing but with regular PLA or ABS filament, it kinks before going into the hot-end and then the extruder roller proceeds to keep feeding filament till I end up with a birds nest between the rollers and the top of the peek, and nothing coming out the nozzle. It seems to be OK most of the time, but I have been trying to print a large model and I haven't been able to finish it without this happening part-way through after half a dozen tries. I even designed a guide to try and prevent the kink, but it didn't work. I have increased my print temps in case it is due to too much resistance in the peek, but it hasn't made any difference and I'm at a loss on how to fix it. It was working fine for months until now. I have ensured my hobbed roller and the pressure bearing are centered with each other so the filament can't easily pop out the side.
this extruder is amazing, however, when i print at high temperatures or with flexible pla, the filament inbetween the extruder gear and the hot end bends and gets stuck, does anyone have a solution for this?

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Instructions

Instructions correspond to pictures:

1. Print parts at high infill for strength. No support is necessary. Accessory parts are optional. Choose between standard and bevelled edge body variant. Dimensions are in mm.

2. Use a thin, sharp knife to remove the built in support from the body piece. It should come off fairly easily and leave behind a reasonably clean surface.

3. The locking arm should be a snug fit and is held in place by a M3 x 10mm bolt. The ease in which the locking arm rotates is dictated by the tension of the M3 bolt.

4. Move the bearing, washers and bolts over to the new tension arm. I prefer one washer at the front of the bearing and three at the back for better alignment. A M3 x 16mm bolt is a perfect length to secure the tension arm to the body.

5. Use the original M3 bolts to secure the body to the carriage. At this stage is it a good idea to insert the hot end. Mine is super snug and wobble free just by closing the locking arm.

6. Attach the extruder stepper motor to the assembly using more M3 bolts. The new filament guide piece (top piece) is modified to make it more compact and allow easier cleaning of the filament gear. On the left side a M3 x10mm or similar bolt is needed to secure it. At this stage it is a good idea to insert M3 bolt(s) underneath the body piece to hit the end stop(s).

7. The extruder is complete at this stage but if you are paranoid about the locking arm coming loose, you may like to clip a blank accessory piece in from above to hold it closed. You may need to swing the tension arm all the way down to the right to provide temporary clearance. This blank piece is actually intended for fan shrouds and other accessories to be glued onto.

Happy printing!
this extruder is amazing, however, when i print at high temperatures or with flexible pla, the filament inbetween the extruder gear and the hot end bends and gets stuck, does anyone have a solution for this?
I'm getting the same thing but with regular PLA or ABS filament, it kinks before going into the hot-end and then the extruder roller proceeds to keep feeding filament till I end up with a birds nest between the rollers and the top of the peek, and nothing coming out the nozzle. It seems to be OK most of the time, but I have been trying to print a large model and I haven't been able to finish it without this happening part-way through after half a dozen tries. I even designed a guide to try and prevent the kink, but it didn't work. I have increased my print temps in case it is due to too much resistance in the peek, but it hasn't made any difference and I'm at a loss on how to fix it. It was working fine for months until now. I have ensured my hobbed roller and the pressure bearing are centered with each other so the filament can't easily pop out the side.
Does this require new nuts and bolts, or does cannibalizing the stock extruder provide all that is needed?
To answer my own question, yes, if you Frankenstein it a bit. Use no bolt to hold lock arm, use accessory mount to block it in, though friction is probably good enough. No top left bolt in filament guide, it's too long, right one alone is sufficient but still too long and it backs out fan screw some when socked up. After that you even have some M3 cap and hex heads left over.
Thinking this thing might even be made more minimalist. Locking arm might be omitted and accessory mount beefed up and re-shaped some to take its place. Filament guide might be chopped off since left hole is not really required. Don't really need end stops on both sides and don't really need a bolt hole for the right one, just a bump.
I have had a couple of sets of these printed out and in storage for some time but I have been limping along with a pair of the glass ones from the vendor and rebuilding them as needed then one finally disintegrated. Now I am not sure how I ever got along without tool less hot end replacement and an accessible filament path.
For you flexi folks it looks like there might be room to mount a lower guide coming off of the locking arm bolt, or maybe integrated into the accessory mount, if you think that will help.
A fabulous model... I have replaced the jigsaw on my SD2 and have been using it for a couple months now. I am really pleased with the results... in fact I created a Thingiverse account just so I could say "Thanks" to Lawsy. I recommend anyone with a Solidoodle print one of these in advance of needing it... I really wish Solidoodle had used a design like this on their new printers... it makes maintenance sooo much easier.

As for that filament guide not slicing... I had the same problem but found that it had been repaired an reposted here thingiverse.com/thing:168329
Filament guide wont Slice. Only slices the squre dovetail part, and leaves the rest out? What am i doing wrong..
I'm having trouble slicing the filament guide, anyone else having issues? When I try to slice the part only a small portion of the part slices.
I have the same problem. How do I fix?
My solidoodle acrylic extruder just broke and I'm having a friend print this one for me. He is having troubles printing the right part which I believe is called the tension arm. Would I be able to use my existing tension arm with the bearing on the other pieces in this print?
Absolutely yes. You should be able to change tension arms back and forth between the original and this one.
Thank you for more great parts and keep up the good work. As for the SKP file it could make better use of well named components, have unused components purged and have a useful outline. Not many folks use the outliner, or components for that matter, but for a part this complex It would be very helpful.
I am not sure why the instructions say to print ALL parts. It looks like there is an choice between the beveled body or not and both of the accessory parts appear to be optional. Please clarify that.
Done.
guys try slicing it in slic3r it´s self, then export the g-code and put it into reptier host, thats what worked for me...
I'm stuck too, it will not Slice no matter what settings I use for Slic3r
when trying to print the filament guide i have problems with slic3r. after slicing i end up with gcode that will only print the portion to hold the thumbscrew. The print is missing the entire left screwhole and the portion that the filament feeds through. any ideas as to what im doing wrong?
Looks like a NO, Bummer, bottom right bolt is not lined up right..
Hi, will this work on a SD3 ?
Thanks G
I was able to get it to attach to my SD3 without any modifications. By bottom right bolt, do you mean the one that holds it to the carriage or the one attached to the motor?
Just a tip for everyone... Don't print this in PLA... It won't work too well...
Yeah that fabric isnt cutting it. Going to try again with PLA hopefully the warped extruder will work well enough to finish it again. Going to try to insulate with this...

amazon.com/HeatShield-340020-Thermaflect-Tape-Shield/dp/B000QFN3DU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&;qid=1375504758&sr=8-7&keywords=high+heat+thermal+insulation+fabric
Yeah using the heat resistant material around the peek helped although the piece is already warped. Will need to prit another.

Went to Jo-Ann's fabric and found heat resistant material. A sort of coton with heat reflective metal in the middle. Probably not the best but it works.

Might be from warping but for some reason the extruder is quite a bit higher after installation. Which is odd since it warped downwards. I don't know if I just installed it incorrectly or what but the bed really had to be raised to bring it up to the extruder properly
Yeah i printed it in PLA, its melting D:... I have some insulator fabric im going to put inbetween there and the PEEK see if that helps.
Hey Lawsy, I printed this and fitted it today, and its working OK, however I noticed that on retraction the peek/extruder nozzle flicks forward and then back again once extrusion resumes. It is a very noticeable movement (couple of mm at least). I believe that removing the wood piece is the cause (as it prevented this type of movement). Did I miss something when assembling, or is this a design limitation? I noticed it on a very simple part with 'retract on new layer' enabled and it does it on every layer change. I tried to record a video with my phone if that will help.
No such issues here - the brace + a blank mount means its impossible for the extruder to move on this design - do you have that in place ?
I have the locking arm, plus the MK5 fan shroud & bracket installed. There is nothing really stopping the extruder from wobbling in the slot. The old design had the top of the peek hard/flush up against it in its slot, and the wood piece at the bottom screwed on, to secure it at both top and bottom, this is only held in the middle via the slot on the peek, making it possible to have this see-saw effect.
Mine is wedged in tightly when the locking arm is closed. Perhaps try printing the main body with the flow rate bumped up to give it a tighter fit?
I also had a problem with the locking arm wobbling, and with the m3 not holding it in well. I wonder if a retained nut could be integrated below the locking arm, to help clamp it in.
Yeah I will try that, here is the vid (sorry for crap quality). youtube.com/watch?v=TK_W5Kg-p_c
I decided to modify the accessory clip so that it holds the peek in place, so far it seems to have done the trick. thingiverse.com/thing:118655
Small piece of wood is no longer needed. You don't need to destroy it to remove it, however, mine is still in one piece in storage.
The solidoodle hot end has a small piece of wood on it. I think I need to remove it before using this extruder? I would like to check before destroying it.
Works fine with the E3D hotend itself, but the end-stop bosses foul with the E3D fan shroud. The bosses need to move outwards 2mm's or so each...
I do have a new mount coming in the next week or so. I don't have a J-head to test but surely it wouldn't be as bulky as my diy hot end.
Are you planning to do a new fan mount / duct, preferably one that works with the J-head? Oh man, that would be nice.
awesome! thanks lawsy
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