Solidoodle Jigsaw Replacement Extruder mk5
by lawsy, published
- Locking arm to prevent extruder wobble
- New and improved stronger tension arm
- New accessory mounting system which is cleaner and stronger
- Redesigned and streamlined filament guide to prevent filament accidentally escaping and allowing easier access for filament drive cleaning
- Improved built in support section for largest part for cleaner printing
- Added boss for left hand limit screw (to suit my replacement carriages)
- Revised mounting holes to allow greater compatibility with hot ends (should be compatible with E3D all metal hot end)
*Update 1: End stop screws widened to ensure E3D hot end fitment. Thanks to OzAdr1an for testing.*
*Update 2: Bevelled edge body variant added thanks to 2n2r5. THis is to suit Printrbot hot ends or if you are having a hard time fitting your hot end.*
*Update 3: Filament guide replaced with pre-prepared version from foofoodog, should now slice for everyone.*
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I'm getting the same thing but with regular PLA or ABS filament, it kinks before going into the hot-end and then the extruder roller proceeds to keep feeding filament till I end up with a birds nest between the rollers and the top of the peek, and nothing coming out the nozzle. It seems to be OK most of the time, but I have been trying to print a large model and I haven't been able to finish it without this happening part-way through after half a dozen tries. I even designed a guide to try and prevent the kink, but it didn't work. I have increased my print temps in case it is due to too much resistance in the peek, but it hasn't made any difference and I'm at a loss on how to fix it. It was working fine for months until now. I have ensured my hobbed roller and the pressure bearing are centered with each other so the filament can't easily pop out the side.
this extruder is amazing, however, when i print at high temperatures or with flexible pla, the filament inbetween the extruder gear and the hot end bends and gets stuck, does anyone have a solution for this?
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1. Print parts at high infill for strength. No support is necessary. Accessory parts are optional. Choose between standard and bevelled edge body variant. Dimensions are in mm.
2. Use a thin, sharp knife to remove the built in support from the body piece. It should come off fairly easily and leave behind a reasonably clean surface.
3. The locking arm should be a snug fit and is held in place by a M3 x 10mm bolt. The ease in which the locking arm rotates is dictated by the tension of the M3 bolt.
4. Move the bearing, washers and bolts over to the new tension arm. I prefer one washer at the front of the bearing and three at the back for better alignment. A M3 x 16mm bolt is a perfect length to secure the tension arm to the body.
5. Use the original M3 bolts to secure the body to the carriage. At this stage is it a good idea to insert the hot end. Mine is super snug and wobble free just by closing the locking arm.
6. Attach the extruder stepper motor to the assembly using more M3 bolts. The new filament guide piece (top piece) is modified to make it more compact and allow easier cleaning of the filament gear. On the left side a M3 x10mm or similar bolt is needed to secure it. At this stage it is a good idea to insert M3 bolt(s) underneath the body piece to hit the end stop(s).
7. The extruder is complete at this stage but if you are paranoid about the locking arm coming loose, you may like to clip a blank accessory piece in from above to hold it closed. You may need to swing the tension arm all the way down to the right to provide temporary clearance. This blank piece is actually intended for fan shrouds and other accessories to be glued onto.
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