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Solidoodle Jigsaw Replacement Extruder mk5

by lawsy, published

Solidoodle Jigsaw Replacement Extruder mk5 by lawsy Jul 1, 2013

Description

An updated version that makes several improvements:

- Locking arm to prevent extruder wobble
- New and improved stronger tension arm
- New accessory mounting system which is cleaner and stronger
- Redesigned and streamlined filament guide to prevent filament accidentally escaping and allowing easier access for filament drive cleaning
- Improved built in support section for largest part for cleaner printing
- Added boss for left hand limit screw (to suit my replacement carriages)
- Revised mounting holes to allow greater compatibility with hot ends (should be compatible with E3D all metal hot end)

*Update 1: End stop screws widened to ensure E3D hot end fitment. Thanks to OzAdr1an for testing.*

*Update 2: Bevelled edge body variant added thanks to 2n2r5. THis is to suit Printrbot hot ends or if you are having a hard time fitting your hot end.*

*Update 3: Filament guide replaced with pre-prepared version from foofoodog, should now slice for everyone.*

Recent Comments

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I'm getting the same thing but with regular PLA or ABS filament, it kinks before going into the hot-end and then the extruder roller proceeds to keep feeding filament till I end up with a birds nest between the rollers and the top of the peek, and nothing coming out the nozzle. It seems to be OK most of the time, but I have been trying to print a large model and I haven't been able to finish it without this happening part-way through after half a dozen tries. I even designed a guide to try and prevent the kink, but it didn't work. I have increased my print temps in case it is due to too much resistance in the peek, but it hasn't made any difference and I'm at a loss on how to fix it. It was working fine for months until now. I have ensured my hobbed roller and the pressure bearing are centered with each other so the filament can't easily pop out the side.

this extruder is amazing, however, when i print at high temperatures or with flexible pla, the filament inbetween the extruder gear and the hot end bends and gets stuck, does anyone have a solution for this?

Does this require new nuts and bolts, or does cannibalizing the stock extruder provide all that is needed?

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Instructions

Instructions correspond to pictures:

1. Print parts at high infill for strength. No support is necessary. Accessory parts are optional. Choose between standard and bevelled edge body variant. Dimensions are in mm.

2. Use a thin, sharp knife to remove the built in support from the body piece. It should come off fairly easily and leave behind a reasonably clean surface.

3. The locking arm should be a snug fit and is held in place by a M3 x 10mm bolt. The ease in which the locking arm rotates is dictated by the tension of the M3 bolt.

4. Move the bearing, washers and bolts over to the new tension arm. I prefer one washer at the front of the bearing and three at the back for better alignment. A M3 x 16mm bolt is a perfect length to secure the tension arm to the body.

5. Use the original M3 bolts to secure the body to the carriage. At this stage is it a good idea to insert the hot end. Mine is super snug and wobble free just by closing the locking arm.

6. Attach the extruder stepper motor to the assembly using more M3 bolts. The new filament guide piece (top piece) is modified to make it more compact and allow easier cleaning of the filament gear. On the left side a M3 x10mm or similar bolt is needed to secure it. At this stage it is a good idea to insert M3 bolt(s) underneath the body piece to hit the end stop(s).

7. The extruder is complete at this stage but if you are paranoid about the locking arm coming loose, you may like to clip a blank accessory piece in from above to hold it closed. You may need to swing the tension arm all the way down to the right to provide temporary clearance. This blank piece is actually intended for fan shrouds and other accessories to be glued onto.

Happy printing!

Comments

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hesselhartmans on Feb 10, 2014 said:

this extruder is amazing, however, when i print at high temperatures or with flexible pla, the filament inbetween the extruder gear and the hot end bends and gets stuck, does anyone have a solution for this?

SLAM-ER on Feb 24, 2014 said:

I'm getting the same thing but with regular PLA or ABS filament, it kinks before going into the hot-end and then the extruder roller proceeds to keep feeding filament till I end up with a birds nest between the rollers and the top of the peek, and nothing coming out the nozzle. It seems to be OK most of the time, but I have been trying to print a large model and I haven't been able to finish it without this happening part-way through after half a dozen tries. I even designed a guide to try and prevent the kink, but it didn't work. I have increased my print temps in case it is due to too much resistance in the peek, but it hasn't made any difference and I'm at a loss on how to fix it. It was working fine for months until now. I have ensured my hobbed roller and the pressure bearing are centered with each other so the filament can't easily pop out the side.

foofoodog on Jan 11, 2014 said:

Does this require new nuts and bolts, or does cannibalizing the stock extruder provide all that is needed?

dtengineering on Dec 19, 2013 said:

A fabulous model... I have replaced the jigsaw on my SD2 and have been using it for a couple months now. I am really pleased with the results... in fact I created a Thingiverse account just so I could say "Thanks" to Lawsy. I recommend anyone with a Solidoodle print one of these in advance of needing it... I really wish Solidoodle had used a design like this on their new printers... it makes maintenance sooo much easier.

As for that filament guide not slicing... I had the same problem but found that it had been repaired an reposted here http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

diyengineer253 on Nov 4, 2013 said:

Filament guide wont Slice. Only slices the squre dovetail part, and leaves the rest out? What am i doing wrong..

phillysteak527 on Oct 28, 2013 said:

I'm having trouble slicing the filament guide, anyone else having issues? When I try to slice the part only a small portion of the part slices.

lowjohn on Nov 5, 2013 said:

I have the same problem. How do I fix?

bigpizzle on Oct 25, 2013 said:

My solidoodle acrylic extruder just broke and I'm having a friend print this one for me. He is having troubles printing the right part which I believe is called the tension arm. Would I be able to use my existing tension arm with the bearing on the other pieces in this print?

lawsy on Oct 26, 2013 said:

Absolutely yes. You should be able to change tension arms back and forth between the original and this one.

foofoodog on Oct 19, 2013 said:

Thank you for more great parts and keep up the good work. As for the SKP file it could make better use of well named components, have unused components purged and have a useful outline. Not many folks use the outliner, or components for that matter, but for a part this complex It would be very helpful.

foofoodog on Oct 7, 2013 said:

I am not sure why the instructions say to print ALL parts. It looks like there is an choice between the beveled body or not and both of the accessory parts appear to be optional. Please clarify that.

lawsy on Oct 7, 2013 said:

Done.

hesselhartmans on Sep 18, 2013 said:

guys try slicing it in slic3r it´s self, then export the g-code and put it into reptier host, thats what worked for me...

rmcullan on Sep 17, 2013 said:

I'm stuck too, it will not Slice no matter what settings I use for Slic3r

jieo69 on Sep 2, 2013 said:

when trying to print the filament guide i have problems with slic3r. after slicing i end up with gcode that will only print the portion to hold the thumbscrew. The print is missing the entire left screwhole and the portion that the filament feeds through. any ideas as to what im doing wrong?

G-unit on Aug 25, 2013 said:

Looks like a NO, Bummer, bottom right bolt is not lined up right..

G-unit on Aug 25, 2013 said:

Hi, will this work on a SD3 ?
Thanks G

ZeroOpti on Oct 21, 2013 said:

I was able to get it to attach to my SD3 without any modifications. By bottom right bolt, do you mean the one that holds it to the carriage or the one attached to the motor?

skipster04 on Jul 30, 2013 said:

Just a tip for everyone... Don't print this in PLA... It won't work too well...

rebelj12a on Aug 3, 2013 said:

Yeah that fabric isnt cutting it. Going to try again with PLA hopefully the warped extruder will work well enough to finish it again. Going to try to insulate with this...

http://www.amazon.com/HeatShie...

rebelj12a on Aug 2, 2013 said:

Yeah using the heat resistant material around the peek helped although the piece is already warped. Will need to prit another.

Went to Jo-Ann's fabric and found heat resistant material. A sort of coton with heat reflective metal in the middle. Probably not the best but it works.

Might be from warping but for some reason the extruder is quite a bit higher after installation. Which is odd since it warped downwards. I don't know if I just installed it incorrectly or what but the bed really had to be raised to bring it up to the extruder properly

rebelj12a on Aug 1, 2013 said:

Yeah i printed it in PLA, its melting D:... I have some insulator fabric im going to put inbetween there and the PEEK see if that helps.

SLAM-ER on Jul 14, 2013 said:

Hey Lawsy, I printed this and fitted it today, and its working OK, however I noticed that on retraction the peek/extruder nozzle flicks forward and then back again once extrusion resumes. It is a very noticeable movement (couple of mm at least). I believe that removing the wood piece is the cause (as it prevented this type of movement). Did I miss something when assembling, or is this a design limitation? I noticed it on a very simple part with 'retract on new layer' enabled and it does it on every layer change. I tried to record a video with my phone if that will help.

OzAdr1an on Jul 14, 2013 said:

No such issues here - the brace + a blank mount means its impossible for the extruder to move on this design - do you have that in place ?

lawsy on Jul 9, 2013 said:

Small piece of wood is no longer needed. You don't need to destroy it to remove it, however, mine is still in one piece in storage.

3dcad on Jul 9, 2013 said:

The solidoodle hot end has a small piece of wood on it. I think I need to remove it before using this extruder? I would like to check before destroying it.

OzAdr1an on Jul 1, 2013 said:

Works fine with the E3D hotend itself, but the end-stop bosses foul with the E3D fan shroud. The bosses need to move outwards 2mm's or so each...

lawsy on Jul 1, 2013 said:

I do have a new mount coming in the next week or so. I don't have a J-head to test but surely it wouldn't be as bulky as my diy hot end.

FatalDischarge on Jul 1, 2013 said:

Are you planning to do a new fan mount / duct, preferably one that works with the J-head? Oh man, that would be nice.

kalijason on Jul 1, 2013 said:

awesome! thanks lawsy

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