3FPD-Replicator 2X - Extruder Upgrade - REV3
by 3FPD, published
-base is fully printable without supports(REV3=DESIGN TWEAKS)
-arm is printable with only external supports (bearing slot)
-arm integrates feed tube mount as well(REV3=DESIGN TWEAKS)
-tension spring geometry improved (REV3=MORE TENSION)
-use 5/32" and 1/4" bits for tight clearance bearing/arm pivot holes
-uses Makerbot hardware kit for Rep2 + 1 extruder screw ($8 ea from Makerbot.com)
-can be pre-assembled for quick swap (under 2 minutes each)
-L and R extruder parts included, and labelled (common pin)
Recent Commentsview all
Thanks! this upgrade has eliminated 90% of the problem's I was having with my replicator 2x. Not a single "air-print" in two weeks now.
3FPD, did you model this in millimeters? When I bring it into MakerWare, it is tiny, and converting to millimeters seems to bring it up to size. This suggest it was done in inches. I think the standard Thingi is supposed to be in millimeters, not inches. In any case, this is a nicely modeled Thing, and I have to order the hardware to go with it.
kaptekarev, I've been trying to get an answer on the problem with .STL file in SolidWorks. I never get an answer. I'm using SolidWorks 2006, and of course it outputs .STL just fine (maybe a few holes, but nothing that seems to bother the printer or MakerWorks) But importing .STL back into SolidWorks bring in a file you can't do anything with. It's like a ghost that floats there, and cannot be worked on. Useless for tracing or using as a model.
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-I printed it at 0.27mm layer with no support on base, and external supports for the arm just because of the bearing channel.
-you will need to chase the bore for the bearing shoulder bolt with a 5/32" drill bit just to make sure it is a tight fit.
-you may need to chase the 1/4" pivot hole in the arm to make sure it is a tight fit as well.
-you will need to lightly file the pin flats, and round edges to make it fit tight into the base key slot
-the base key slot has a relief at the bottom to make sure the pin seats flush and square with no radius in the corners
-included parts are LH-Arm, LH-Base, RH-Arm, RH-Base, and a common pin (print 2 of them, and one each of the others)
-put the small flathead screw into the deep corner countersunk hole in the base part.
-put the pin into the arm part so it is flush on the outside face
-put the bearing into the arm slot and secure with the shoulder bolt
-shoulder bolt head should be flush to the outside face, and the threads should stick out the back
-bearing should spin freely
-put arm onto base rotating the pin so the shoulder bolt threaded end rests in the curved slot in the base face.
- now that the movement is limited in the arm via the threaded end in the slot you can add the spring
-place the spring on the bottom perch and compress it into the arm perch.
-follow makerbot instructions on how to remove the existing extruder.
-place the newly pre-assembled extruder upgrade onto the stepper. You may have to compress the arm slightly to move the bearing out of the way of the drive gear.
-new extruder should seat flush to the stepper face.
-use one of the long flathead screws from the removed Makerbot extruder through the corner pin to secure the new 2X extruder upgrade to the stepper.
-tighten until snug, but arm moves freely with very slight resistance.
-press the arm down until you can insert the hex-key though the arm hole to tighten the small flathead screw in the other corner.
-repeat entire procedure for the extruder upgrade for the other side.
Please let know if you have any suggestions on improvements.
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