Tardis Transformer V2
by Ellindsey, published
This design is scaled to two-thirds the size of the original. It takes about one-third the plastic to print. It has about half as many parts, and is easier to assemble. The transformation sequence is simpler. Thanks to some interlocking tabs, the toy holds together very firmly both in robot mode and in Tardis mode. Due to the reduced weight and the redesigned joints, the robot easily stands on its own unsupported.
On the downside, it's can't be posed as freely as the original - there are a lot fewer axis of freedom in the joints, especially in the legs. That's the price you pay for something made completely of plastic.
This was actually a much harder design than the original - it's a lot harder to design a durable toy than something that just has to look right.
The toy stands about eight and a half inches tall in robot mode. In Tardis mode, it's four and a half inches tall, and two and a half inches wide. At 25% infill it takes 6 ounces of plastic to print, most of it blue.
As with the original, this toy can be built with entirely printed parts, doesn't need to be painted, and holds together without screws or metal pins. You can still optionally insert scraps of white construction paper in the windows to make them white, and print labels for the various decals. While it can be assembled without glue, I do recommend using a few dabs of glue on the locking tabs if you are actually going to play with it.
Original was printed on my custom Rostock derivative printer. Printed in PLA, using a 0.5mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height, 2 shells and 25% infill. Autocad source files are included.
Transformation sequence, more pictures, and other details at drewsrobots.blogspot.com/2013/07/tardis-prime-version-2.html
I have uploaded plates of all blue, black, and grey parts. These should be able to easily print on a machine with a 200mm bed. In addition, you will also need to print the abdomen in white and the bowtie in red.
Major update on 7/11/2013: Slightly redesgined nearly every part for better printability and durability. Redesigned the elbow joint to keep the forearms from falling apart as easily and to make it easier to get it into Tardis mode. Got rid of the sliding black bar mechanism in the back, that idea didn't work out well, replaced it with two smaller fixed bars instead.
Added two thinner versions of the fist inserts in case you have trouble getting the standard ones in.
9/18/2013 update: I have modified nearly every part on the model to improve printability, ease of assembly, durability, and show-accuracy. Cleared up some issues with the leg and hip parts interfering and redesigned the fist sliders. It should be easier to assemble and look better now. I also rearranged the blue parts onto two trays that should be possible for any machine to print.
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Clever design! I had a go at printing myself. Lots of failed prints of left/right foot and hipplate - the outer edge of hole collapsed. I was going to try adding a thin 1 or 2 wall support inside the drill hole so that it keeps shape. Hopefully will easily drill it out while cleaning the parts.
Hmm, everything is assembled, although the locking tabs on one shoulder broke (firing up the printer now to reprint replacements for the entire shoulder).
Trying it out in total, nearly all the joints are extremely loose for me, making it a challenge to get the figure to stand, let alone pose. Does anyone have tips for adjusting the joints after the fact, rather than printing out new pins? (tape? glue? sanding?)
Also, for silly reasons, I'm waiting a few days before posting pictures and other goodies.
Thanks again for the awesome design!
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Print the following parts:
1 headcore(grey or silver)
Press the headcore piece into the headshell. Push the tabs on the two headantenna pieces thru the holes on the shell into the core to lock the pieces together. Depending on your printer, these may or may not hold in place securely with just friction. If they're loose, put a drop of glue on each to secure them.
Push the tab on the bowtie into the small hole on the pivot. This should hold in place with just friction, but if it's loose you can glue it as well. Press the post on the head into the hole on the pivot. This should not be glued, it should be free to rotate.
Print the following parts:
1 torsopin(doesn't really matter, I used grey)
1 abdomenpin(doesn't really matter, I used grey)
Optionally, cut square pieces of white construction paper and slip them into the spaces behind the windows in the torso block.
Line up the torsolink with the slot inside the torso block, such that the flats on the link are vertical, and press it into place. This is a tricky thing to do, and it only really goes in one way, but once it's in you should be able to rotate the link piece freely yet not be able to remove it.
Put the loop part of the torsolink into the slot at the end of the white abdomen piece as shown in the picture, and press the torsopin piece through the holes to lock them together.
Press the chestbar piece into the small rectangular hole in the center of the chest as shown in the photo. Make sure you get the orientation right, the thicker part of the bar should be facing outwards. Press two shoulderlink parts into the round holes in the torso block as shown.
Place the head pivot assembly from before onto the top of the torso block. The shoulder links should loosely hold it in place as shown. With everything in place properly, line up the torsocap part and press it firmly onto the torso block. It should lock solidly in place, and in fact should be very difficult to remove without damage so make sure you have everything where it's supposed to be before snapping this together.
Note that the 'backbar' piece shown on the assembly photos has been eliminated. Photo has not yet been changed to reflect this.
Line up the hole on the midback part with the center hole in the abdomen piece. Press the abdomenpin part through to lock them together.
Print the following parts:
1 lowerlegleft (blue)
1 footleft (blue)
1 lowerlegright (blue)
1 footright (blue)
1 upperlegleft (grey)
1 upperlegright (grey)
2 footpin (doesn't matter)
1 hipplate (blue)
Line up the hole on the tab sticking out of the footleft part with the holes in the slot on the lowerlegleft part. Press a footpin through to lock them together. Do the same with the footright and lowerlegright. Make sure you have the right parts paired up before pushing the pin in as it's nearly impossible to get out again.
Press the upperlegright and upperlegleft parts into the upper hole on the lowerleg parts. Note that the upper leg parts are identical to each other, just mirror-imaged for convenience, so it doesn't really matter which one you use in which position.
Manuever the hipplate part onto the abdomen piece such that the holes line up. This can be a little tricky to do since the holes aren't co-linear with each other, and the hip piece may need to be rotated around to fit on the abdomen properly.
Once you have the hip plate lined up, push the pegs on the upper leg pieces through the hip plate into the abdomen.
Print the following parts:
1 fistleft (grey)
1 fistright (grey)
1 forearmleft (blue)
1 forearmright (blue)
2 elbow (grey)
1 backbarleft (black)
1 backbarright (black)
1 shoulderblockleft (blue)
1 shoulderblockright (blue)
1 shoudercapleft (blue)
1 shouldercapright (blue)
Optionally, cut pieces of white construction paper and slip them into the slots behind the windows on the shoulder blocks.
Press the left shoulder block and cap together such that the ball on the shoulder link fits into the little cup in the shoulder. Snap the left side back bar between the cap and block as you do. (This is not shown in the assembly photo yet) Depending on your printer, this might fit tightly, or it might be slightly loose and need a bit of glue to hold together. Do the same for the right shoulder block and cap.
Push the left fist into the front of the left forearm piece. It should slide freely, but be nearly impossible to remove. Do the same with the right fist and right forearm. Push one of the elbow pieces into the hole in the back of each forearm, then press the other peg on the elbow piece into the hole in the bottom of each shoulder block.
That's about it. I haven't made a decal file for this yet, but once I get some actual sticker paper for my inkjet I'll be drawing one up.
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