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2013 Seej Starter Set

by zheng3, published

2013 Seej Starter Set by zheng3 Jul 15, 2013

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2013 Seej Starter Set by zheng3 is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Summary


Oye! Oye!

Brenda the articulated battle tardigrade has been released into the wilds of 3D printing!

Join the Horde to be among the first humanoids to learn about the next epic project from Zheng Labs!

We now return you to your regular model description.


The 2013 Seej Starter Set has been updated. Here's the 2015 Starter Set!


Oye, oye, oye!

A new army appears on the horizon! The Barrow Lords!


The original Seej Starter Set gets an upgrade to take advantage of the advances made in 3D printing over the last twelve months.
The dawn of the hobbyist resin printer is upon us, so the set includes a one-piece flag and a fancy voronoi bloxen you can use to show off your printer's capabilities.
The proliferation of inexpensive filament printers with smaller build platforms requires the advent of a smaller Seej engine, so I've added the Marshmallow Mangonel to the kit.
The classic catapult gets improvements inspired by community feedback, too. It's all compatible with older prints, and is much, much more accurate.
Seej is an Open Source tabletop wargame designed to advance the state of 3d printing through competition and player-directed evolution.
Rules for Seej are at http://www.s33j.net


Playing Seej with a group? Register your clan and find local players at The Obelisk!

Instructions

This set contains:
one Zheng3 Penny Catapult, with new upgrades
one Marshmallow Mangonel, with additional penny throwing arm.
an updated Seej Battle Flag, Pennon
a Bloxen, Basic
a Bloxen, Masonry
a Bloxen, Voronoi
a single-piece Battle Flag
Print one set for each player. Acquire pennies for ammunition, read the rules at s33j.net, and start playing!
Non-U.S. Seejmaesters can print the catapult in pieces and rescale the throwing arm to accommodate their local coinage.

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Is it possible to use euros as ammo?

Mar 24, 2016 - Modified Mar 24, 2016

Hey, just wondering.... How many bloxen are recommended to do a nice battle? I can't really find any videos of battles so I have no idea how many to make. Currently I have 30 or so and am printing one every 30 minutes, and I am wondering if I need more or if I have too much for what is an ideal amount.

~EDIT~ Also, by the way, I am not able to test play the game by myself yet, as I don't yet have the rubber bands for the catapult, so I can't just setup two castles by myself and bombard them just yet to see how many is the best amount.

We did however, make one change: I cut out a bunch of 1"x1"x2" bloxen from foam insulation board because I needed a lot of bloxen really fast. I've found that the hard foam bloxen explode outwards when hit, which is especially entertaining to watch. Big walls of the stuff are either partly or completely annihilated by a lucky penny. Look for pink foam insulation boards from Home Depot if you want to build your own.

The foam bloxen actually have enough inertia to change the trajectory of a penny, allowing for some quickly manufactured, explosive barriers with some defensive capability.

WOW COOL AWSOME

Hey zheng3, I used this seej starter set to start a seej war during a 3D printing camp for middle schoolers. We even had them design their own weapons for the fight. So far there were two out of six designs that could outperform the ballista and catapults in range and accuracy. I will attempt to upload the file of the successful launcher through the camp. The cool thing is this is actually a really good educational tool- gets the competition going amongst the designers.

Oh, that's just awesome to hear. I'm very excited to see the students' new designs!

How do you suggest to wind up the catapult? thick rubber vs. several smaller ones? If I wind it up hard, the rubber just make knots and the arm twists. If I add # of times it goes back and forth, it has very little additional potential energy.

Take a look at my make of the catapult. In the comments I left some info on my winding tests.

Kind of a silly question, but are these pieces meant to be glued together? I've got a lot of play in all the parts. I was expecting them to be more of a snug fit, but I can't tell if I've got something configured wrong. Multiple prints of the same pieces appear to come out properly.

zheng3 - in reply to maik

The short answer is: it depends. When I print these on my Rep1 or PrintrBot Simple most pieces are pretty snug and hold together with friction alone. Some printers might have tighter tolerances or higher resolution, so your mileage may vary.

Glue is totally Seej-legal, however, so if you need to glue, go right ahead.

A couple of notes: The atlas is loose because it needs to slide quite a distance on the crossbar to reach its final position.

The winding keys should remain unglued so that you can adjust the tension in whatever you're using for a torsion spring.

jbs - in reply to zheng3

Yeah but don't glue the bloxen.

maik - in reply to zheng3

Thanks a lot. I've built a Tantillus which appears to be too precise :) The only real concern is the crossbeam so I may attempt to scale that a tiny bit and see if I can get it nice and snug.

When you designed this in a 3D program do you have a tolerance number you use so that when two pieces come together its like perfect.

What is that tolerance number? I was using .5 for a lot of things but after assembling this I was like struck on how perfect it fit.

I don't have a specific tolerance number that I plug into an equation or anything. I just do lots of test prints in ABS and PLA before I go live with a model. It can be tough to account for contraction, layer height, a whole bunch of other factors.

Once the design hits the real world all the nice numbers go out the window.

.534 --- I used the stl to measure the parts ;)

Great job BTW on the design..

Dissapointed the original game Castles and Catapults is not available in store anymore, oh well at least I can reprint this copy and pretend! :)

Has anyone built this using the replicator 2x? I printed the feet using the standard settings and the top surface layers had huge gaps. What settings should I use? Or what parameters should I play around with? Thanks.

I printed it on a 2x with 0.2mm layer height and 30% infill and 3 shells. Worked fine.

Awesome! Looking sharp!

I notice you added a block to the top cross bar in order to send the penny on more of a ballistic arc than a line drive. I accomplished the same thing by simply assembling the arm on the other side (aka backwards). This allowed a higher arc which in some instances is good for nailing a flag behind a wall without having to take the wall down first.

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