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R. Maker - Mark I

by ErikJDurwoodII, published

R. Maker - Mark I by ErikJDurwoodII Sep 18, 2011

Featured Thing!

Description

This is my submission to the MakerBot Robot Mascot Challenge!

A few comments:

Although I am no stranger to 3D modeling, this is my very first model intended to be 3D printed. I do not own a 3D printer of any sort and I have never 3D printed anything. That being said, I tried my best to research good design practices for FDM printing and I sure hope I did all-right!

Anyhoo, this little guy is customizable by having different parts printed in different colors. Also, he was designed to be able to be personalized by the producer being able to place his or her own model in the body to add personal flair. The feet articulate as do the head, arms and claws. Everything should snap together. The spool on his back is Mr. Maker's fuel supply! Take some 1.75mm filament and wind it on the spool (you may have to warm it to be more pliant) then thread the end through the top of his head.

Now he's ready to go!

I designed this in about 10 hours with Autodesk Inventor 2012.

(Many thanks to "techknight" for the advice on re-orienting the models in ReplicatorG!)

Also, I would LOVE to know how well this prints. I tried very hard to be mindful of the vertical slopes and tolerances but this being my first design for print, I don't really know for sure. If anybody prints this, I would GREATLY appreciate it if you could explain any issues. THANKS! :)

UPDATE!
I'm working on the Mark II version as well as an Experimental Mark III body that acts as a stylish enclosure for the Gen 4 electronics guts. I don't own the parts so it's a lot of guesswork at the moment...Along with a new segmented head so it can be wired up with lights or cameras or whatever you can fit in there! (The FOO and BAR lights on the console for example!)

The Mark II I'll be uploading soon. Unfortunately not soon enough for the contest, but it was always my goal to create a neat little gizmo that was hackable and modular for ultimate customization!

More to come!

Update: Name Change! As a nod to robotic lore, this little guy will now be known as R. Maker!

Recent Comments

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I love the original heart inside Mr. Maker. :) Where can I find the file for the heart that snaps in too?

I just finished printing this little guy as one of my first prints. Quite the learning experience. I had the same problems as some have posted about.

My lazy mans fix for the feet clips was to do the following.

Sand down the feet where the clips broke off flat.

Scale a copy of the shoulder pins by .7 and print them on their side.

Use acetone to glue the new clips in place (Have yet to see how well this works in the long run).

Also, I didn't like how loose the arms were, so I printed out a hollow ellipsoid from blender sized to just barely fit inside the shoulder clips. I cut the ellipsoid in half with a hobby knife and placed it a half inside each pin after it was in the robot body but before the arm was attached. The ellipsoid half provides extra resistance which gives a nice firm movement.

I know these are not the "right" ways to fix the small problems, but they worked for my purpose.

Now you can print a smaller one to go on his build platform! Worthy winner.

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Instructions

Print 2 of the Arm Pegs, Eyes, Shoulders, Shoulder Pegs and Claws. Snap together!

Comments

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nolightforyou on Feb 17, 2013 said:

I love the original heart inside Mr. Maker. :) Where can I find the file for the heart that snaps in too?

Corpulent on Jun 20, 2012 said:

I just finished printing this little guy as one of my first prints. Quite the learning experience. I had the same problems as some have posted about.

My lazy mans fix for the feet clips was to do the following.

Sand down the feet where the clips broke off flat.

Scale a copy of the shoulder pins by .7 and print them on their side.

Use acetone to glue the new clips in place (Have yet to see how well this works in the long run).

Also, I didn't like how loose the arms were, so I printed out a hollow ellipsoid from blender sized to just barely fit inside the shoulder clips. I cut the ellipsoid in half with a hobby knife and placed it a half inside each pin after it was in the robot body but before the arm was attached. The ellipsoid half provides extra resistance which gives a nice firm movement.

I know these are not the "right" ways to fix the small problems, but they worked for my purpose.

Mackeyorama on Oct 25, 2011 said:

Now you can print a smaller one to go on his build platform! Worthy winner.

ErikJDurwoodII on Oct 19, 2011 said:

My MakerBot is here! YAY! I uploaded a photo of the print they gave me. Stay tuned! Now that I can validate my designs, I'll be updating the Mark II with improvements to make for a better print!

thething1 on Oct 13, 2011 said:

congratulation Erik i knew u would win

MacaroniNgineer on Sep 27, 2011 said:

Great robot, I printed this and learned a few things myself. A few quick tips:

-The clips on the bot spool and legs broke upon assembly, consider thickening the cross-section or using another method of attachment. My bot did not reproduce these very well, they were very jaggy and weak.

-The attachments for the wrist and head work VERY well. Consider using this flat design to fix the strength problems above.

-The shoulder joints worked ok. They are somewhat loose and allow the arm to fall off easily. More cross-sectional area would be helpful. I think using flat design like for the wrists or neck would be very strong and functional.

-The visor clips located on the head also broke. This did not present a problem though because there was a very nice press fit between the visor and head. Clip geometry is not necessary for these two components to mate. Good press fit on the eyeballs too.

-I use 3mm filament and had to drill out the head to make it fit, not a huge deal.

-I printed the body at 35mm/s and 15% infill, .4mm nozzle, turned out good, build time: 4.5 hrs.

A very cute robot, everyone i showed it to, loved it. Excellent design and great assembly instructions. Very good build. I think with a few minor modifications at the joints this robot can be made a lot more robust.

Thank you for designing this. Well done.

rhmorrison on Sep 22, 2011 said:

Nice job!

ErikJDurwoodII on Sep 22, 2011 said:

Thanks!

itzlwhite on Sep 20, 2011 said:

Is that Maker-tangelo?

ErikJDurwoodII on Sep 20, 2011 said:

Naw, he had a orange visor. This is Makephael.

His brothers Makernardo, Makertangelo and Makeatello were unavailable for the photo-shoot.

triffid_hunter on Sep 20, 2011 said:

Hi, clips that print vertically like the ones built into the feet and the face are very weak, suggest you replace with clip holes so we can print separate clips horizontally.

Also, the head clip is a bit thin, could be a little fatter for strength.

I suspect the reel clip may be rather tricky, I haven't gotten to that part yet. I may fatten it up a bit first.

The clips on emmet's screwless cube gears are lovely, for reference.

I added some holes in the head for LED
leads and a little space for the flange on mine :)

tbuser on Sep 22, 2011 said:

Yes, for version 2 you should really think about either making the built-in pins much larger/thicker or replacing them with separate pegs and holes in both parts that join together. It's a common problem with these connectors. I broke them several times and had to use a little super glue to re-attach the pins.

My only other issue with it is that the body is really prone to splitting because it's so large and boxy. I'd suggest splitting it into multiple pieces, but I'm not sure how best to do it visually because it looks great having that big large opening to put other prints inside.

tbuser on Sep 20, 2011 said:

I love this guy, I'm definitely going to print one tomorrow!

jimcook on Sep 20, 2011 said:

I love Mr. Maker. I just hploaded my version. I have not made the back pack yet because I don't have any of the small fillament.

I don't know how you do it, but my vote for the mascot goes for Mr. Maker.

Not only does it show off the capability of my TOM it is hackable at different levels. First, you can make a copy with different colors. You can hack it to include two different color back packs for the duel color printing
version. A high level of hacking might include modifying the head so it is hollow. Include a battery, LEDs and a circuit so the LED eyes will blink.

ErikJDurwoodII on Sep 20, 2011 said:

Incredible! It looks wonderful!

I made the holes that the eye plugs slide into the right diameter to take standard T1 LEDs. My idea was to incorporate that but I initially couldn't decide on the hardware. I'm working on a 2.0 version that could include a switch, battery case and wiring holes/channels. But I felt for v1.0, the
community could take a swing at it and possibly do better than I. ^__^

At the moment I don't have the ability to print my creations, but I hope to someday soon, and I look forward to continue to churn out projects. This is FUN!

BenRockhold on Sep 20, 2011 said:

This is so freaking adorable. I need to get my hands and extruder on some gold and crimson plastics.

cyclone on Sep 19, 2011 said:

Very nice job. Are you using Inventor Pro or Edu version? I don't suppose you would post the Inventor source files?

ErikJDurwoodII on Sep 19, 2011 said:

I have Autodesk Inventor Pro 2012 and I can most certainly post the source files. ZIP AHOY!

At my work (I work at an Advanced Dental Education center here in Seattle) we are tooling up with the latest intra-oral 3d scanning technology and are working with companies to develop cutting-edge diagnostic work-flows using 3d scans of patient's teeth. As part of the upgrades, we culled into ou
r existing Autodesk Subscription (I use 3d Studio MAX for all of my CG and VFX work) a license for Inventor Pro 2012. A piece of software I have never seen or touched prior to last Thursday. On Friday, I poked around in it and on Saturday, I created Mr. Maker.

I have to say, Autodesk Inventor
is perhaps the most enjoyable modeling application I have ever used! The modeling engine is mostly non-destructive and unobtrusive. The tools are obvious and the interface is clean and direct. I may be a veteran 3d studio MAX modeler, but I have never taken so well to such a vastly different mode
ling workflow/paradigm!

Okay. Enough Gushing...Sorry. ^__^

jimcook on Sep 19, 2011 said:

I decided to start with the body. This is not a quick print but it looks great! It has a representation of the injector and the table. I nice feel to this print. I'll add images as I finish each print.

jimcook on Sep 19, 2011 said:

Well, I just printed the head and joint. Everything went well. His head turns like it should. I will resume printing late tomorrow.

jimcook on Sep 19, 2011 said:

A few moments after I posted the above picture I started to print the head. As I sat next to the machine I noticed two cracks started to appear They are shown below highlighted by red arrows. Number 1 was the first and the longest while number 2 is smaller. There two more smaller ones on the opposite side down low.

Mackeyorama on Sep 18, 2011 said:

And the winner is... I don't think it will be long until you have your own printer. I luv that little guy.

merlinjim on Sep 18, 2011 said:

Are their LED holders in the eye sockets?

There should be LED holders in the eye sockets.

Extra credit for designing in a battery holder and switch somewhere too.

Extra extra credit for wiring channels.

ErikJDurwoodII on Sep 18, 2011 said:

I designed the visor to allow for that, I was trying hard for printability and character. Until I can get this guy printed somehow, I'll have a better idea on how I can incorporate those features into version 2.0 ^__^

Thanks!

Thaed on Sep 18, 2011 said:

Awesomely recursive and recursively awesome!

ErikJDurwoodII on Sep 18, 2011 said:

Oh, and for anyone who can help, this is my first upload and I'm not sure why the STL thumbnails are in weird positions. Probably a problem with the STL itself. Is there a straightforward method for re-positioning a model? I'm still cutting my teeth with the different software.

Thanks!

techknight on Sep 18, 2011 said:

You could load them up in ReplicatorG, use the centre/place-on-platform functions, and then re-save the STL files.

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