XY-Tensioner/Wood Stabilizer Plate
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Published on September 21, 2011
Description
Top-plate for the X Axis Stepper on the TOM.
I noticed that with all the Adjustments on the X axis tension, my wood began to warp and crack a bit around the channels. Especially around the T-Slot for the left side.
This plate should reinforce the wood making things sturdier.
Also a tensioner is integrated for making belt tension adjustments without disassembly.
This design uses countersunk M3 bolts rather than the stock ones in order to allow a thicker ABS Plate. This will provide more strength with the same height.
I liked it so much I put one on the Y axis too.
I just noticed there is a similar design here on thingiverse:
thingiverse.com/thing:11502
I noticed that with all the Adjustments on the X axis tension, my wood began to warp and crack a bit around the channels. Especially around the T-Slot for the left side.
This plate should reinforce the wood making things sturdier.
Also a tensioner is integrated for making belt tension adjustments without disassembly.
This design uses countersunk M3 bolts rather than the stock ones in order to allow a thicker ABS Plate. This will provide more strength with the same height.
I liked it so much I put one on the Y axis too.
I just noticed there is a similar design here on thingiverse:
thingiverse.com/thing:11502
Instructions
I printed using 90% infill for added stability. Slide a M4 nut into the tensioner slot. Swap out the existing M3 bolts for countersunk ones and screw them into the stepper gently.If you use countersunk bolts, X axis mobility will not be compensated. If you try to use regular head bolts, the carriage will run into the bolt heads.
Drill a hole for the M4 Tensioner Bolt into the left side as shown in the photo. I recommend using a M4 washer to protect the wood, but you can see I used a scrap ABS plate for this purpose. Screw a M4 bolt through this hole into the tension nut on the plate. This will allow you to make minor adjustments to the belt tension without disassembling the carriage
Drill a hole for the M4 Tensioner Bolt into the left side as shown in the photo. I recommend using a M4 washer to protect the wood, but you can see I used a scrap ABS plate for this purpose. Screw a M4 bolt through this hole into the tension nut on the plate. This will allow you to make minor adjustments to the belt tension without disassembling the carriage
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catatonicprime
on
May 11, 2012
said:
So... this pretty much saved my life. I was having serious tension issues which was leading to garbage prints. Got enough of 1 done to print 2 more even better, accidentally cracked part of the first one. But now I have one on both my x and my y. Thanks (and up the chain) for sharing!
Gossamer
on
December 20, 2011
said:
I've added a link to yours in the description of my version, thanks for linking to mine!
Anonymous
on
September 21, 2011
said:
I did the same thing in a different way after trying oversized flat washers. I was thinking of making the actual plate from ABS and replacing this wooden piece
If this keeps up, eventually all the wood will be replaced :)
License
XY-Tensioner/Wood Stabilizer Plate by Tunell is licensed under the Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons license.
More from Tunell
Outstanding addition - I just added them to my TOM. I did have an issue with my cork gasket on the X stage sticking to the wood. Having the motor snugish and the gasket stuck - and imprinted with the motor - started bowing the M4 Nut web. Maybe make that deeper and/or ramp it down into the flat.
I think a printed plastic plate would be perfect replacement for the gasket - given we want this puppy to slide now. Another thought some Safelease (slippery Teflon mould release) or teflon tape.
For your parts list additional detail
M3 x 16 ; I used M3 x 14 and that's barely long enough so recom
mend M3 x16
M4 x 16 - Tensioner for X stage; you could probably to up to a 20mm; 25 is into the pulley so I cut it down
M4 x 25 - Tensioner for Y stage is perfect length