Lulzbot TAZ retractable Z-probe auto bed level compensation with G29 Mod
by 1013, published
video's of the prototype in action:
printing with Z motion youtu.be/c8dM1KpBXJ8
Inspired by this: matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update
The Z-probe is a micro-switch wired up in parallel with the existing Z min switch and attached to a cam operated toggle. The probe is deployed when the X-carriage goes to the max X position, and retraced when the carriage goes to X0. This allows for automatic bed probing before each print.
NOTE: this is designed to work with TAZ's that have my stiffened X motor and bearing mounts. thingiverse.com/thing:107553 It can work with standard TAZ parts but may require a custom 8mm spacer on the lower X smooth rod since the probe is activated by pushing against these parts.
It is also recommended and probably necessary to remove the Z-backlash that is in the standard TAZ by following the instructions in this mod: thingiverse.com/thing:117950
BED PROBEING FIRMWARE:
Lulzbot TAZ specific configuration.h file:
G-code for probe deployment and bed probing:
Recent Commentsview all
Great project. I've made all the parts, but can't get to the firmware code. I get a 404 error. Can you repost, or direct me to the source? Thank you
On Matterhackers we are told about an all software bed leveling method.
Is this hardware one still relevant or should I explore this software only solution ?
I ve just printed the x stiffened mods. I wonder if I should print pieces for this retractable probe :-).
i have not modified the firmware (besides the config file). The moving to the side to deploy and retract the probe is all done in a custom G-code that is run at the beginning of each print. and this is of course slightly custom to each machine. If you could setup a G-code script to run as a "probe bed" command, instead of a simple "home-Z" command...that would work. Maybe an option to run a G-code program in place of the home-Z command.
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For best results, replace all 10mm linear bearings on the TAZ with LM10UU ball bearings.
-(3-4) M3 washers
-(1) M3x16mm bolt, longer should also work
-(2) M3x12mm bolts
-(3) M3 insert nuts and inserting tool(short, mcmaster carr)
-3mm drill or reamer
-(1) roller tipped micro switch (radioshack 275-0017 or other electronics store)
-Print all parts. ABS recommended. support material is not needed
-trim and/or file the bearing holder and activator so that the base of the bearing holder is flat, and the activator slides easilly in the slot.
-install 2 insert nuts in the toggle, and one in the bearing holder where the toggle mounts. It should be below the surface in the bearing holder, and not sticking out either side of the toggle.
-drill or ream the holes in the micro switch to 3mm (depending on the switch, this may not be necessary)
-Install the micro switch with the 2 12mm screws as shown in the pictures.
-Install the bearing in the bearing holder
-temporarily install the activator in the bearing holder
-temporarily install the toggle as shown int he pictures with the 16mm screw and washers. 2 or 3 washers should go in between the toggle and bearing holder and one on the outside of the toggle for the bolt to push on.
-test the operation of the toggle. it should take some force but not too much. be carefull, and adjust the toggle axis bolt tension or trim and file the parts until the move freely.
-remove the toggle and activator
-install the bearing block on the X-carriage, re-using the mounting screws from the original part.
-slide in the activator
-attach the toggle
-wire up the micro switch
-replace the Firmware
-calibrate the probe. see here for help: matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update
-add the G-code to do the bed probing before each print
-remove the 4 springs from the bed corner mounts and never re-level your bed again.
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