Bowden Clamp for Ultimaker (Heater End)
Description
If you cut any more off the end it won't reach the front corner any more?
This will hold it in place for you.
All printable.
Mounts with your existing bolts.
Clearances and Fan side bolt mount height adjustable.
Quick and easy to release Bowden tube.
Thanks to thingiverse.com/thing:9095 for the great screw threads and knurled finish.
Instructions
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UPDATE Jan 31 2012. Added stl files of bigger clamp I've added 5mm length to Riser Thread Height and 10mm to Cap Height, this makes the Cap take up a lot more thread before tightening the cable which makes it much stronger. the files end with number 2. This is the one I use myself.
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Make adjustments in Openscad for Clearances and Fan side bolt mount height. Fan side bolt mount height is set for 2mm so that it's bolt can still fit a nut on for the fan but higher is much better if you can still manage to mount your fan some way.
Print each part individually strong with fine layers.
Clean up and apply a very small amount of grease on outside of tightening cone and on the thread of riser.
Run the nut up and down riser to have it working smoothly first. Adjust nut diameter and reprint if necessary.
Once you have a good fit you may want to print a spare.
Trial fitting and tightening on another tube first.
Wait till your Bowden Tube pops out.(Start printing something important!)
Undo 4 mounting screws and clean top of Peek block out if necessary.
Remove the closest screw in the top heater board assembly mount and rotate that assembly out of the way.
Slide nut and Tightening cone onto Bowden tube in the right direction and order.
Check riser will fit on Bowden tube and then Mount it on the top and do up 4 mounting bolts half way.
Push your Bowden tube through and into the top of the Peek block.
Tighten all three bolts not nearest the tube all the way up. But not too far like I did (See pic).
Tighten last bolt within .25 to .5 mm
Push tightening cone by hand as far as you can down into riser.
Push nut down and carefully tighten up with thumb and one finger.
Doesn't need to go real tight as it grips fairly well.
Tighten the last bolt up all the way.
Put your old clip back on as well if you left it in place.
Readjust your platform height.
Reprint a full version of that important thing.
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Owen: Thanks for designing this. You say you're not using it another since you installed v2 hotend...are you using retraction? My Bowden popped out at the hotend even with your Bowden clamp (it's a little bit worn so I thought I'd print a new one but I haven't done it yet) when using retraction. Isn't it needed when using retraction and if not - why not? Thanks...
Looks good.
I dont think this will fit to my machine.. :(
maybe i modify it.
because my moving head has a different Layout on top.. there are two Thermocouple boards and two bowdens in the way.
I recently tested a V2 Hotend and i am totally disappionted by its performance...
It has more places where the forming of plugs is possible and its not the same size as V1 nozzles it is bigger so you cant go dual without modding..
Hot End v2 from Ultimaker will hopefully solve this problem for good! Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?...
This part has been working great for me so far no more bowden pops!
That is, until the threaded riser sheared off... I'll print it with more fill next time.
I'm pretty sure the problem is that the 'home' position of the print head is the corner furthest from the extruder, the stress on the part was too much over time and it snapped. I need to figure out how to
change that.
Forgot to mention - I had to change the 'use' lines to 'include', to make it work with OpenSCAD 2011.11.30 (latest release), but perhaps the 'use' command works with the latest pre-release builds.
What are the recommended settings for this?
0.1mm layers and 100% fill?
Does the thread still work at a 0.2?
Has anyone tried 50% or 75%?
I expected to have a bit of trouble getting the nut to fit on the thread. As the fit is rather loose, it fit easily. I have a visible Z-step-blob, but it still fits.
And of course, on all objects that I printed for "looks" the blob is on the outside, while this one is for function with functioning parts, the blob happens on on the functioning part..... Oh well. It fits.
Why is the shaft so high? Couldn't it be shorter?
Hi rew,
It shaft is so high so that the high pressure of doing it up fairly tight is spread over 6 to 7 threads as opposed to 2 to 3 threads. The bottom of the cap also needs to stay above the mounting screw. An earlier design, which is still here, was shorter but proved to be not strong enough. Also use a drop of grease on the thread, it works wonders.
I just printed the files and I think it is a great idea! Ultimaker should ship this design.
Anyone here live in/around europe ? My printer just totally failed as a result of a blockage and I would like to 'order' one of these from someone who is willing to help . . (paypal)
Looks like I'll be (trying) to print this next. After weeks and weeks of great Ultimaker printing, the tube keeps popping out now. Very frustrating. If I can keep it in long enough to print this then the problem might be solved!
Great clamp, works as advertised... only issue I ran into is as you say:
DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE THUMBTURN! it clamped my bowden tight onto the filament, and forward extrude worked but retract wouldn't 'catch up' to prevent ooze.
Yep. My original overtightening issue concerned breaking the part which for me then wasn't very strong due to not getting enough fill into it.
But now as you say you want to tighten it just enough to hold but any tighter and smooth flow of filament gets restricted. It helps not to over tighten the tensioner screw on the cold end as well, which squeezes the filament into an oval shape and in turn restricts a smooth flow through this clamp and beyond.
Hi Owen, I created an accessory for your Bowden Clamp in order to resolve the problem of the electronics not being fixed on the top of the hot end assembly.
Here's it : http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Haven't had the bowden pop out yet, but if it does, I'm ready.
Do you get to remove the white plastic push-in fitting when you use this?
Printing this today looks good.
Can you also add the scad file corresponding to the updated stl files (ending with 2)? In particular I think you have increased the thread radius - it is 7mm in scad and I think 7.5 or 8 in stl *2 ? I'm designing a derivate for the feeder end and wanted to make the cap the same.
Perfect design: it fits perfect and it get's the job done.
I used it in combination with : http://forum.ultimaker.com/vie...
&
amp;t=184
When someone make a derivative for the cold-end (extruder motor side) i'm the 1st that gonna print it.
Thx
I was having the same problem after upgrading the extruder motor to a NEMA 17 motor. No more missed extrusion steps, but the bowden tube kept popping out if there was enough backpressure on the filament.
I printed this out (came out great) and fit together perfectly. I installed it and time will tell how well it works -- I don't think the bowden tube will pop out again -- but something's gotta give elsewhere. We'll see.
You might want to add to your instructions that you may have to remove one
screw in the top heater board assembly/retainer and rotate the assembly so that the base of this part can fit over the proper screw holes. After that, it fits fine.
I printed the stl files unchanged.
Just to have the replacement on the shelf.
Unfortunately the cap thread does not fit to the riser screw.
As the cone might go in a bit further I guess that the riser screw might be 1-2 mm wider.
Please have a check.
Wim
Hi Wim
It printed OK and fitted for me. I had experimented earlier with threads and discovered I needed to make the nut diameter 1mm wider than the bolt diameter.
Try increasing capInsideDiameter by .5 in the openscad file. Also increase the capHeight by 5mm (makes it stronger) see the Update bit in my notes.
If you plug this bit of code into the OpenScad file you can print off this capTest. It will print off a 4mm high nut with the same thread as the Cap.
Sorry about the hard work. I have reprinted mine with the longer thread but am also going to make a Derivitive on this Thing after I test latest changes.
capTest(); // Makes a 4mm High Cap with no top to test thread on fit on riser.
module capTest()
{
/* Nut parameters.
*/
n_df=25; /
/ Distance between flats
n_hg=4; // 4mm High
n_od=capInsideDiameter; // Outer diameter of the bolt to match
n_st=2.5; // Step height
n_lf=55; // Step Degrees
n_rs=0.5; // Resolution
n_gp=0.07; // Gap between nut and bolt
intersection()
{
hex_n
ut(n_df, n_hg, n_st, n_lf, n_od + n_gp, n_rs);
// k_cyl(n_hg);
}
}
Can you design that clamp to fit in place of the plastic Hex nut piece on the extruder side? I can see how that tube will start becoming a problem on the extruder side.
This looks very clean. Never had problems with the original solution... but if it pops, I'll be the first to print this replacement :) Thanks for sharing.
Awesome use of the
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thread
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and
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knurl
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libraries !!
Thanks a lot for sharing this !
License
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