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Prusa i3 Rework

by eMotion-Tech, published

Prusa i3 Rework by eMotion-Tech Jul 26, 2013
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Summary

The Prusa i3 Rework evolve, you will find this new revision 1.5 here.

This version of the Prusa Mendel iteration 3 rev 1.0 is based on the EiNSTeiN VARIANT (M10 threaded rods instead of M8).
Changelog:
04/11/2013 : 1.75mm extruder version added
We changed some features :

  • Extruder upgrade :support J-Head
  • New cooling fan duct for J-Head
  • Y Idler with a tensioner system.
  • X End Idler with endstop holder.
  • Upgrade X End Idler in order to support 624 bearing.
  • Y Motor with endstop holder.
  • Addition of Z Endstop Holder in situ.
    Enjoy !

Instructions

Assembly instructions are available here : English and French.


Prusa i3 kit will be available on sale soon on Reprap-France.com.

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License

GNU - GPL
Prusa i3 Rework by eMotion-Tech is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Hello, there is some problem with a print via simplify3d
don't print inside slot for a guide shaft
http://i.piccy.info/i9/f69dec3c6fd004544fabeb9b0ac054f4/1463638139/77400/1035497/bug.jpg

Thanks for your idea, i make it http://www.mayin3d.info/

If I haven't bought a printer yet, would this be a good place to begin, getting these parts printed and buying the parts individually? Or does that work out more expensive?

Could you send me one?

do you need someone to print the parts for you?

Yea, My printer broke

Message me and I can probably help you out

Could you please provide me with the files for the "heated bed mount", and the "main frame" .dxf files? Also, what material would you recommend using for those? What thickness?
Thanks.

To the people who have made this has it been very successful in printing?

This may not answer your question, but this is an extremely similar build to a regular Prusa i3 kit you can purchase. They print quite well. The quality is pretty high, for a low-priced printer. I am pleased. You just have to know what you are dealing with when it comes to assembly and calibration.

This comment has been deleted.
This comment has been deleted.

can it be used with the e3d v6 hotend?

it is necessary to print this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547706 if you want a bowden or this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:725082 if you like Gregs style..

E3D v6 Bowden X-carriage mount Prusa i3
by Tech2C
E3D v6 Compact Extruder for i3 Rework

Hi, good parts!!

Where I can find the files of the full frame and base of the printer? I have a CNC and I want to make it.

Thanks

Just to ask for this part, the frame itself where can i download? is there in .dxf file?

The better openscad "EiNSTeiN Variant" files are here: https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3
Why would someone modify the openscad files and then only give out the STL files? That's like modifying an Open Source application but only giving out the compiled code. I guess the lesson is to license any openscad files under the GPL to keep people from doing this.

Does anyone have the STL files for what eMotion Tech is calling the Prusa i3 1.5 Rework The upgrades include Inductive auto-leveling, Aluminum Heatbed, Z trapezoidal screw

Those files in thing files are ok or only Oleg had problems with diameter of holes..?

The X Axis idler is very weak. The screw hole where the bearing goes breaks. There are better designs on thingiverse.

Why is there a version of the 3mm extruder without support but not for the 1.75mm version?
These supports are really messed up.

Do not download these models - do not repeat my mistake. The diameter of the holes in the models is larger by 1 mm

I'm left a little confused by the description..

So is this a Prusa i3 Rework, or a Prusa I3 Rework Einstein variant?

I'm just a little confused because, yes, the Prusa i3 Rework is based on the previous Einstein variant. Trying to source parts.

would it be possible to make a list of all the parts that you need to buy, that cant be made? or even sell a kit of all the parts that cant be made?

also, of all the variations of the i3 would you consider this the best one?

If you want more information about this particular printer, I just finished a 26 video tutorial on building one from scratch. Including all the tools and parts you need and how to source them out. Also, I just created a Git Hub page that includes all the .STL files you need to download and print these parts, but I used a sturdier gear design. Check it out if you are interested. These printers are good because they have a very large print area for the price. and its a fun DIY project if you have step-by-step guidance. Hope this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPXGE3tBQZBlB2GR7mf8PXA
https://github.com/geekiTutorials/prusa-i3-rework

Jan 28, 2015 - Modified Jan 28, 2015

Where can I find a usable dxf file for the frame? I have been searching everywhere! I know it is an einstein variant. Is this it?
https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/old_single_plate/src/frame/6mm/Prusa3ALU-FREZOVANY-v4.dxf-old

Is it possible to share parts or assembly file? there is one on grabcad but it's not the same with this

This model looks perfect, indeed, greater i3 print size, and easier to assemble, perfect appearance, so it is very popular. I use to do your part of the model one. Now I am here to share with everyone.
prusa i3 3d priner kit with LCD
http://www.reprap.cn/he3di3-prusa-i3-3d-priner-kit-with-lcd-p-92.html

what is the build volume

I printed this and assembled it.
The print volume is roughly 18x18cm (x/y). With this single frame sheet and the measurements of the 10mm steel rods and 8mm smooth rods I wonder how this should get to 20x20x20cm. Either I am doing something wrong or there must be some laws of physics that do not work where I live.

This comment has been deleted.
Nov 27, 2014 - Modified Nov 27, 2014

Please, you can make X-END-MOTOR for m6 studs and nuts , or where i can find a model for editing ?

Avec des membres de la communautés reprap, on a amélioré votre extrudeur, avec toutes les nouveautés listés :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:512338

(En cours : Fanduct en test pour essayer d'améliorer encore le refroidissement par rapport aux supports simples)

Wade L3K Extruder (prusa I3) compatible filament flexible By Skarab (JHead - Hexagon - E3DV6 - Aluhotend V7 et AllinOne Compatible)

Merci beaucoup votre version est très pertinente. Une solution pour du 1.75mm est la bienvenue, cependant faites attention avec le type de hobbed-bolt utilisé en 1.75 (les vis moletées ne sont pas très efficaces pour ce diamètre).
Pour ce qui est de la source de l'extruder, il convient de citer ch1t0 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:76660) (auteur originel de l'extruder), n’hésitez pas à utiliser la fonction paternité sur votre création pour lier les deux œuvres.

Prusa i3 parts (extruder and carriage, x-end vertical, and z-top stabilizers)
by ch1t0

Il n'y a aucun soucis pour le 1.75 avec ce type de hobbed bolt (hyena like), le filament est déjà quasi totalement entrainé sans que le idler soit en place.

Pas de soucis pour la citation.

Ca vaut le coup de tester cette variante du wade, je suis en train de préparer 2 fanduct pour canaliser proprement l'air jusqu'au nozzle.
A bientot,
Pierrelesek

Can anybody Identify what extruder body is included in this kit? I have one but am having a hard time finding mating files that support this type of extruder body. I'm guessing that it's a unique, custom design for this particular Prusa build from E-Motion tech. I'm looking to retro fit this build with a Bowden type extruder setup that uses the standard skateboard type bearings. Also - I'm designing up a mount bracket that holds the extruder body onto the flat frame to create a bowden type driver. If anyone has ideas, tweaks, or suggestions, post away. P.S. - I'm trying to stay away from the Makerbot type of drive wheel and stick to the traditional type of hobbed bolt design.

thanks - JD

This comment has been deleted.

I need help printing this out. One of my parts has a hole supposed to take 8mm smooth rod. I print it out and it's 7.4mm diam. I forced the rod in and it snaps the part. What should I do? Should I drill it out or is there a way to improve hole sizing?

How did you end up solving this? I'm planning on just drilling out the holes.

Aug 11, 2014 - Modified Aug 11, 2014
Mak-a-face - in reply to ttttrigg3r

Yeah, you could drill it out or you can calibrate your printer a bit more.
If I remember Neil Underwood's youtube channel has a video on calibrating X,Y & Z E=Steps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAL9d7FgInk

Also ZennmasterM's youtube channel has a couple of videos on tuning your E-steps and extruder.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLU2kePyB_WAanJvtjJGZI7l0GjY7uQJHo

Hi! where i can find (openscad) source of BODY-EXTRUDEUR-WADE? I would like to make some changes to remove slack in the hotend's holder part ..

Where can I download the frame? I am unable to download from github.

Where can I get the frame template?

It's a Prusa i3, not Prusa Mendel i3...

Artaex - in reply to ufra

Yes I'm sure. Prusa Mendel is the triangle-shaped version. Here's a Prusa (non-Mendel): http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i...

It is a bit difficult to find specifications on the frame. Is this frame the same as the one used in the standard Prusa i3?

ufra - in reply to Jarred

search for the einstein variant... same frame

Look out everyone this has to be the biggest pile of manure I have ever built. The Z endstop will have you cursing as it lets your right hand side crash your head into the heated bed because the left hand side's Z endstop shifted. Oh, and the general design of the Z M5 nuts having gravity to keep them in is total bullshit as well as I had my right hand side pop it out and damn near break my machine and had I not been around I expect a fire could have happened or worse.

May 10, 2015 - Modified May 10, 2015
punkrockseb - in reply to DarkAlchemist

The length for the y axis 10mm threaded rods is to short. Because the bearing holder is standing out too far towards the center of the printer. This means the timing belt holder under the print table pushes against the bearing holder when moving the table to the front effectively reducing print size by at least 2 cm in the back.

If I had known this before I would not have disassembled my good old reprap wallace. Now I am stranded with the even less print volume than before.

Misengineered project. Should have printed the Einstein variant.

Yep, as I said above and this entire printer was, as you said, misengineered and I haven't had a single day I was not wanting to throw it in the river.

Well I think despite the fact that the print size is smaller, I think that it will print okay once calibrated. But naming it "rework" and calling it names like "improvement" is simply a farce.

What I don't understand is the overall single sheet design. It is build symmetrically but the X and Y axis are designed asymmetrically.
If the hotend moves all the way to the left the tip is around 2cm off the heat bed.
If the hotend moves all the way to the right, there are ca. 1.5cm of unusable heat bed.
If the heat bed moves all the way to the front, there are again ca. 1.5cm of unusable heat bed because the heat bed knocks against the endstop.
If the heat bed moves all the way to the back, its again the same as above, because it pushes against the timing belt holder.

I simply cannot comprehend how this design has so many makes and likes and no one cares about the cut down print size.
On the other side, if you look at these makes, almost all have modified the "Rework" design.

For me these files hosted here on Thingiverse and Github are simply dumped here and left for good. The creators of the Rework sell their design on their online shop and don't care about the DIY community. There is basicly more money to be made if you sell your reworked "Rework" design than caring about some niche community. We will deal with it anyhow.
Maybe I am just used too much to German engineering.

DIN4Life!

I put up all sorts of revisions for this beast and I am about to put up an entire kit (some of what you mentioned is fixed) but this machine needs so much work I think this will be my last upgrade for it but you just never know. You can check my work out to see the upgrades I have done over time to this turd of a design.

May 11, 2015 - Modified May 11, 2015
punkrockseb - in reply to DarkAlchemist

I have asked other makers of the Rework about their print size and one answered me giving some hints.
Check out the comments here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:85639#comment-605972

This means that two new endstop holders are required.

Prusa i3 Rework

All I can do is SMH. :(

whats with the very large hobbed bolt head size on the big gear? http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Engrenage.jpghttp://reprap.org/wiki/File:En...

Agreed, I remade it for my i3 to fit my hobbed bolt, see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:328339http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

i3 Rework Big Gear

I built this week for the third time a Prusa i3 and this time I found a way to tension my X belt easier than using pliers and tought it worth sharing. I used only one screw to hold the X motor as shown in this picture (http://imgur.com/AwNgKQX)http://imgur.com/AwNgKQX). Then I inserted the belt and stretched as best I could with my hands. Now all I had to do was rotate the X motor until align the holes, that movement was enough to make the belt well tensioned.

Bad place for the X endstop since it is the only one that has to be changed in Marlin to tell it this is really the X MAX endstop (change it on the ramps too) whereas Y and Z are min endstops.

Does anyone have the extruder idler for the 1.75mm extruder version? Thanks!

a problem with the x axis, the distance betw 8mm rods in xcarriage, is not the same in the x end idler and x end motor.,

there is 1 mm difference in the distance from the center of the x axis to the extreme.

This must have been fixed or it was an issue with your prints because I just overlayed the models in netfabb and the rod holes match perfectly. My concern is with the overhanging corner on the x-end-motor-v2. Are people actually printing it without support?

I'm playing it safe and added some support in meshmixer.

I've come a cross the same issue, the issue for me seems to be with the x axis carriage itself

Where can i get this x-carriage for 16mm bearings? (lmE8uu)

Unfortunately, we do not provide such version. We have a lot of development on fire and do not really have time for other carriage versions because our team is extremely busy so we apologize!

Thanks for your reply, just to be sure, (at least) this part is not open sorce nor there is source code for it?

Hi! it's just printing plates, UP will be plates maximum of 100x100mm. That's it ;)

Also looking for a usable dxf for both the frame and base. Really cannot find anything.

please, provide a usable dxf file for the frame. all the files proposed in comments are missing or cannot be opened.

Hi, please check the dxf on the Prusa Mendel i3 EiNSTeiN VARIANT there: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Build_Manualhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i...

I am having a hard time slicing some of these properly with the latest slicer, it seems to consistently occur with some files and exhibit the same issue every time, the infill will not generate for a swath of layers thus causing all sorts of print havok, I strongly believe it is something wrong with the files themselves. The X-carriage is one in particular.

Hi, we experienced the same with the last version of Slic3r on the X carriage, it seems to be ok with the anterior version. Maybe Slic3r added a new feature which make the slice fail on the X-Carriage... We will have to check that... Thanks anyway for the feedback.

there's bigger issues with the file, netfabb won't even open it.

Dear Cfeniak, I was worried about that so I downloaded the file from here and try to open it... it works fine here...You can check my screenshot here:http://www.heberger-image.fr/data/images/24876_Xcarriage.pnghttp://www.heberger-image.fr/d...

Will these parts work with a stock prusa I3 frame?

="darkalchemist:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/DarkAlchemist/DarkAlchemist it actually comes with 24mm distance from bottom of the head to middle of the hob. however, the wade big gear in their kit is different than the stl.. so 24mm would be wrong in this case. from what i measure, it seems to be 26 mm for those who print it themselves.
="thingiverse-73fa8fc116f3b809ce0619b738541ddb:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-73fa8fc116f3b809ce0619b738541ddb/eMotion-Tech could you please release the stl for the big gear you send with your kits?

Hi! Sorry We are quite in the rush, We dont spend so much time here in thoses days.
="thingiverse-744d94e8837b1dc3ece6548429ec1824:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-744d94e8837b1dc3ece6548429ec1824/YDA: We released last month the big gear here :http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235562http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
="darkalchemist:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/DarkAlchemist/DarkAlchemist: 24 works, if more you have to use more washers which is not really clean.

Big Gear Custom eMotion Tech

Anyone know what hobbed bolt this takes? From the bottom of the head to the middle of the hob is how many mm? 24? 25? or 26?

Did you ever find out the correct size? Is it 24mm?

23-23.5mm for me so what I had to do was use 2 less 8mm washers and use 1 10mm washer in its place and it lined up perfectly.

Hello eMotion-Tech, I was looking all over to find the source files for your very nice i3 Rework pieces. Given that it's under GPL, they must be somewhere - but so far I was not able to find them. Please help! Thank you

You should add a printed GT2 pulley. Cut down costs and reduce the vitamin count!

Jan 11, 2014 - Modified Oct 7, 2014

We have purchased the kit and built it ... work very nicely .... We have however redesigned the Z endstop for easier tuning.
For those who might need it it, there it is : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:223765

;)

Prusa Mendel i3 Z endstop Tuner

thanks

For people who have built (or are building) this printer, take note that the X-Endstop is on a different side to usual. Depending on your firmware you may see mirroring of prints. You can easily fix this by plugging the X-Endstop into the X_MAX_ENDSTOP that can be found right next to the X_MIN_ENDSTOP on a RAMPS Shield.

This can also be done through firmware, but I had terrible trouble in Marlin with it. Using this method is super simple.

Wow, just saw this note - Thanks for the work around. I was killing myself slamming the carriage into the endstop first, then trying to adjust Marlin, trying everything in software, then flipping the plug around, then finally - I got frustrated and drilled out and tapped some mount holes on the left side X axis motor mount, then mounted my micro-switch using a bent piece of aluminum plate. What a learning experience.

Hey, finaly printed and assembled the rework but im having trouble printing abs because it is warping, i use hairspray and abs juice but the fan on the magma doesn't help. Are you considering doing a fan shield? And anyone did print in PLA with this? Thanks

just add 10% of vinyl glue (you'll find it in stores that sell school stuff) in the abs juice.
Then add it on the hotbed when hot, just a little layer... try it! ;)

where can i get the frame .dwg?

I'd very much like your scad files for these designs, which must be GNU GPL v3. Can you please point me to where they are available?

Any news on this? I need to sort the bolt holes on a couple of parts out....

Can you please make an extruder for 1.75mm filament.
Thanks.

It's now online!

Hi! Yes, this version will be soon online!

Hi. i like the xcarriage design, would you mind sharing the source file so i can use t2.5 belts?

thanks

Hi eMotion-Tech I really like
your work - beautiful! But in my case I need to modify the X-END-IDLER before I
can do anything else, by now I have printed half the printer but I can't really
go on :-( I tried to put the stl file into inventor but that does not really
work since it is just a shadow of the item so you can't change it... Is it
possible that I can have the CAD file for inventor because that would really
save my day and all the time I have spent on this?

If you don’t want to post it
and prefer private contact my e-mail is [email protected]

Hope to hear from you soon.

Best regards Lasse Andersen

Hi, is posible for you to modify the x-ends spaceing the leadscrew and the rod to 30mm so they can fit a prusa i2?

Hi, i was just wondering if anyone had priced this out yet?

Hi, I was just wondering if this printer had been priced out at all?

Hello eMotion-Tech !

Why not add a stl wades extruder for j-head support?

Alex

Hi, actually this Wade extruder support also the j-head ! They have the same geometrical end. I will add this information in the description. Thanks for your comment !

Thank you!

great job!...i wanna know where can I get the .dwg file of the frame and heated bed mount?....thanks a lot!

Thanks ! The DXF file is available in the previous comments. There is no .dwg file unfortunately.

Hey, I'm curious as to if you have a McMaster# for the M10 threaded rods you used for your build.

Hi, I'm sorry but what is a McMaster ?

I believe he was referring to these guys in the USA: http://www.mcmaster.comhttp://www.mcmaster.com

Nevermind, I found what I was looking for. Thanks!

Hi, where can I get the DXF for that single plate - alu??
Can somebody help me?

Hi, you can get the DXF file here : https://github.com/EiNSTeiN-/Prusa3/tree/master/single_plate/src/frame/6mmhttps://github.com/EiNSTeiN-/P...
It's the original plate for the Prusa i3 Einstein Variant.

But this file I can not open with any app.

You can open this file with a software like Solidworks, CATIA, etc. What do you want to do with it ?

I cannot open too, I tried Autocad and Solidworks and none works, it´s like an empty file. A coworked tried in his computer and also the same problem.

You are right, I can not open this file too. Here is a clean version : https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64915124/Plate_Prusa_i3_Model.dxfhttps://dl.dropboxusercontent....

Will you upload the files for the frame?

Hi, we use the DXF file of the Einstein Variant available on Githubhttps://github.com/EiNSTeiN-/P.... We just add some writing and enlarge Z wire supply holes.

Where can i find Z-AXIS-TOP-RIGHT-V2.stl ?

Thans!

Hi, sorry for my mistake, I uploaded a CATIA file instead of a STL file. This is corrected !

Thank you!

Great, so didn't Trinity Labs basically go under and good luck on getting the hot end this is designed around? I mean there are rumors of them coming back under new management but I don't know if I would design a bot around a hot end or components that are likely not to be very easy to get. Just saying....

The owner/operator (?) had a medical emergency so they had problems for a month. They're up and running again.

At the moment we don't have problems to get Magmas however it can be easily replaced with a Jhead because of the same cold-end shape, by the way Brian is still in business and for a long time i guess.

Prusa i3 parts (extruder and carriage, x-end vertical, and z-top stabilizers)
by ch1t0

Hi ch1t0, we haven't forgot to mention your creation, just that research in "Sources" don't work...you will appear in the description !

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