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Gear O'Clock

by PrintTo3D, published

Gear O'Clock by PrintTo3D Oct 5, 2011

Featured Thing!

Description

NEW VIDEO! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCGmpHHC0Ag

It's a 3D printed clock! WOOT!

It consists of 12 number plates, 2 gears, and 1 mount.

All units are inches.

In the zip folder are two versions of the main drive gear and clock base (10" gear). The gear I sectioned into four pieces (print two of each) and a version of the drive gear that does not need supports.

This should main clock base should fit on most hobby printers. I made everything so that it requires no support and fits within a 4x4" box.

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About how big is the diameter of the ring? I am having some odd scaling issues with these parts when placing in RepetierHost. Basically, they come in as about 4 cm long, and I'm not sure how far to scale.
If you're comfortable soldering you can fix this by swapping the wires to the small coil inside the clock. I've done this before as a prank to make time run backwards.
So please tell me I'm not the first one to be stupid and arrange the numbers backwards as if it were a normal clock? not realizing til AFTER it was super glued?

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Instructions

You will need to purchase the clock shown in the photos from Walmart or any craft clock assembly should work. I picked up the Mainstays clock because it was only $3.97 and I was unable to find the kit clock mechanism locally.

If you purchase the Mainstays clock all you need to do is remove the screws around the back perimeter of the clock. Once removed you have access to the clock hands. First remove the second hand, then the minute hand and finally the hour hand. Only a gentle pull is needed. Once removed you can pry the plastic tabs on the clock backing out to remove the clock mechanism. I found a small amount of glue on mine which may make it a bit difficult.

While your parts are printing you will need to take apart the clock mechanism. Make sure you remember how it goes back together. You need to access the hour hand gear and shaft. Remove the minute hand and second hand gears. Place the hour hand gear back into the clock housing and use a fine hacksaw or Dremel tool to cut the shaft flush with the clock housing. We need to cut it off because the hour hand obviously only rotates once every 12 hours. We need to press the printed clock gear onto the minute hand shaft since it rotates once every hour hence the 12:1 gear ratio. Reassemble the clock mechanism once complete.

Once you get all the 3D parts printed you will need to hot glue the clock mechanism into the clock mechanism mount and press the drive gear on the minute hand shaft. You will also need to glue the numbers to the clock base and probably assemble the clock base pieces if you have a small 3d printing bed. (Less than 10x10 inches)

About how big is the diameter of the ring? I am having some odd scaling issues with these parts when placing in RepetierHost. Basically, they come in as about 4 cm long, and I'm not sure how far to scale.
So please tell me I'm not the first one to be stupid and arrange the numbers backwards as if it were a normal clock? not realizing til AFTER it was super glued?
If you're comfortable soldering you can fix this by swapping the wires to the small coil inside the clock. I've done this before as a prank to make time run backwards.
thanks for the STP file of the drive gear...could you post STP files of the other major parts. I have a larger printer and want to combine them.
Cannot wait to print/mod this!
Managed to print two of these on my RepRapPro Huxley after my "duh" moment last week - brilliant design. I have published a derivative via VeryWetPaint's derivative which you can see here: thingiverse.com/thing:18959 (No great changes and I guess I could hardly call it a true derivative but there are one or two files which may help someone else). Thanks again Bad Brad - good video too!
Gear O'Clock - number plates and couple of changes
Hello, I don't seem to be able to slice any of the STL files for some reason. I have tried Slic3r and Skeinforge - same result - error. I would love to print this out on my RepRapPro Huxley (I can comfortably go to a little bit more than 4" square). Can anybody point me in the right direction?
Hmmm - seems I haven't been reading paying attention - my slicing software is working in mm and not inches! Think I will have another try with a scale factor of 25.4! :-[
Awesome work! Nice video showing how you built it, too. Thanks for sharing it!
I really love this project! The clock has a very cool design.

Thanks for sharing this design and the files with the rest of the world. :)
I finished mine today and it works great. I printed it on my Prusa so I scaled it down 75% so that I could print the big gear as one piece. I left the piece that that holds the guts, full size. I also usedthe clock from Walmart, it was cheap and easy to get. Picture to come.
Do your Dimension printers have triple heads? I thought they only had 2, model and support.
Dimension machines only have two print tips powered by a single stepper.
The extruder question was probably directed at the two-color number tabs because people have been exhibiting two-color models that had been built with multiple extruders.

But Gear O'Clock's number tabs can be built in contrasting colors using just one extruder by changing the color of material when the model is about 5.3mm high. That was layer 33 on my SD300.

You could achieve a similar effect by adding color starting at 5.3mm using Cyclone's Filament Colorizer h
ttp://www.thingiverse.com/thin...
I hope this works for you since mine is much lighter! (Sparse) :-P

Gearing up for Christmas?
I can't tell if that is "green" or "smoke" after all I am color blind to red and green...
It's my so-called "black" material, but it appears smoky gray when bonded directly onto white. The numerals didn't have enough layers to blacken them.

This project has slowed down because I don't have the clock mechanism you used. American Science
&
amp; Surplus used to carry an excellent clock mechanism for $2.99 which can even handle grossly-unbalanced loads but it's been out-of-stock for weeks so I bought a hobby mechanism at a local Michaels craft store.

This hobby mechanism uses a slotted shaft so I modified the Clock Drive Gear with a slotted opening and a counterbore to allow the nut to be threaded on to the shaft. Gah! I computed something wrongly so the end of the threads were flush with the interior surface, making it impossible to thread
the nut and thus impossible to secure the gear to the clock movement.

When I get it right I will post the modified gear as a derivative for anyone else who wants to use this particular clock movement. I built a gear-shaped cap to cover the counterbore so it will look like the original design.
Scott,

IF you need the stp file let me know.

I could also pick a Mainstays clock and send it to you if needed.
STP of drive gear uploaded.
Thanks, it's generous of you to share the geometry in STEP for easy editing. My last revision of the STL mesh fits my clock mechanism so I won't need the STEP data, but it's nice to have it on Thingiverse because it'll help other users adapt the drive gear for other clock mechanisms.

I'm using an ArtMinds Clock Movement Kit, $6.49 at Michaels craft store, which is arguably easier than pulling a movement out of a clock. The revised Drive Gear keys itself onto the hour shaft without modification of the movement, and it's secured by threading a knurled ring onto the shaft that w
as exposed by adding a counterbore to the face of the gear. I built a gear-shaped cap that snaps over the hole, but I want to replace it with a decorative gear that'll attach to the now-exposed shaft for the second hand.

The ArtMinds movement has a built-in hanger, which entailed a modification of
the Clock Mechanism Mount. It also has a smaller shaft with a small threaded nut, so I reduced the size of the opening to fit the movement.

For the benefits of users who use similar craft-store movements I will share the revised Drive Gear, Mount, decorative cap, and any accessories as a derivati
ve...after I've verified it actually works!
$6.49 oh my! :-) I bought a whole clock cheaper... ;) Actually pulling the mechanism out of the clock was very easy just a few screws and tugs to get it out. The only downside is it was a bit wasteful and now I have a "clock" that's garbage unless somebody has another idea for it. Maybe a mouse exercise wheel!

BTW my clock is still on target 5:50am EST!

Please post lots of photos when you get all the bits working.

8-)
It's getting closer and cooler.

I discarded my Drive Gear mesh and derived a new one from your STP file. My previous attempt was functional but it had overhangs that were impractical for most homebrew FDM machines. I enlarged the opening so it would fit over the entire clock shank, but I forgot to leave room for the nut that s
ecures the clock movement to the Mount...so I still need one more revision!

But it works well enough for testing now. The hour shaft extends just slightly through the Drive Gear and it's held on by a threaded brass ring. This position makes it easier to assemble and permits a cool NEW feature: ac
cess to the seconds movement. I built a decorative gear that attaches to the second hand, which can then be attached in front of the Drive Gear.

It looks a bit magical now because there's visible motion. The little gear seems to turn fairly fast even though the giant gear ring mysteriously advanc
es very slowly.
excellent - this really is begging for a time lapse video! I want to see it move!

Well done
Video coming soon. The clock is still on track after making it's first 24 hour circuit.
This is so great! Love it! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! The idea was boiling in my brain for over a week and over the last few days I extracted it into reality.
Project... Split STL into reprap size parts... :D

cant wait till home time :)
This is already done for you unless the print tray is smaller than 4x4 inches.
great idea!

you could perhaps put the minutes on the drive gear in smaller letters for minute display

I would put them base to the outside, so they are read from beneath the center pole rather than being obscured by the hour display.

Alternatively, just some indicator lines of different lengths like the gau
ge on a ruler to indicate 0 (longest), 15, 30, 45 (medium), rest small.
I had thought about putting numbers on the drive gear. I decided against it because in order to be big enough to be legible from a short distance they would need to be big in size. This would block the hour numbers. Also I wanted the gear to be as visible as possible.

The only thing I don't like about the current design is that the 45 minute markers are different color than the 30 and 15 minute markers. I should have made the entire "hour" assembly as one part.
I have an 'accessory' in mind for displaying the minutes: a balanced marker that rides at the bottom of the large gear, using gravity to turn it synchronously with the drive gear. The cool thing about this approach is that it's purely an add-on: none of the other parts need to be modified, so it could be added later. (If it works, that is!)
I think that concept would work. I only have one major concern though.

Just how much added "work" can the clock mechanism take? I'm sure I've already added enough stress to it! :-)
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