Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter - 8.5mm Motors, Micro Scisky

by punkkills, published

Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter - 8.5mm Motors, Micro Scisky by punkkills Dec 24, 2015

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This frame was inspired by the FireFlo V2 and the Alpine Drones Micro H. My goals were to keep it crash resistant, light weight and offer good protection for onboard gear.

It measures ~105mm. The V1 frame weighs ~10g and the V2 frame weighs ~8g when printed in PLA. My full build (currently V2 base and V1 top) weighs ~38g without the battery. It is designed around 8.5mm motors and the Micro Scisky flight controller. The camera mount is angled up 13 degrees to accommodate fast forward flight.

Build Instructions

See the full build instructions on instructables.

My Setup

  • Flight Controller: MicroScisky
  • Motors: Hubsan X4 H107c 8.5mm Motors
  • VTX: FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter
  • Antenna: I used the inner wire from the coaxial cable of a broken clover leaf antenna. I used the default frequency on the FX758-2 which is 5865. After soldering the wire on, I cut the antenna to 12.8mm which is the quarter wavelength of that frequency
  • Camera: 170 Degree Wide Angle Camera
  • Battery: I use a mix of a few batteries. 380mAh Hubsan, 500mAh Hubsan and 300mAh Nano-Techs CAUTION: When using the Nano-Techs, make sure the battery polarity is correct. I have had to switch the connector position on these.
  • Props: I am currently using Ladybird props. They hold up a lot better than the Hubsan props.
  • Battery Pigtail: I cut one of the leads off of a charging adapter.
  • Nylon Hardware: M3 nylon nuts and machine screws. I used the 20mm machine screws and cut them to size after attaching to the frame.
  • Printable Standoff And Clip: As an alternative to using nylon hardware, navyblueboss made a very nice pin and clip set. I have not yet printed a set of these but they look great.
  • JST SH Connector: A JST SH connector can be used to get get a 5v supply for fpv gear straight from the Scisky. CAUTION: I managed to fry the power supply on one of my Scisky boards. Other users have reported the same when using the FC to power FPV gear. Another option is to use straight battery power or a voltage regulator from battery for VTX and camera.
  • 5v Step-Up Voltage Regulator: Use a pololu 5v step-up instead of the JST SH connector to avoid burning up the voltage regulator on the Scisky.

Radio Options

The Micro Scisky has a built in DSM2 reciever. Here are some compatible radios.

Video Options

Alternate Electronics

People have had success transplanting the flight controller and motors from a Hubsan X4 H107C. Going this route, you would get motors, flight controller, a battery, a radio and a set of props for relatively cheap. You could then add FPV with a camera, VTX and a voltage regulator. I have not tried this route yet, but plan to build one soon for a friend. I will post my results when I do.


  • 1/9/2016 - Added bottom-v2-experimental. I was able to reduce the weight of the bottom of the frame to ~5.5g. This saves ~1.5g from v1. I don't think the frame durability will be affected much.
  • 1/10/2016 - Added top-v2-experimental. I was able to reduce the weight of the top of the frame to ~2.3g. This save ~0.5g from v1. The v2 top and bottom combined should be ~8g when printed in PLA. Both the v2 top and bottom will feel a bit flexy separately, but once they are connected the quad will feel solid but still allow some give in crashes. I recommend using M3 nylon hardware to secure the pieces together. I do not anticipate the v2 top compromising durability in any way. NOTE: I have printed, but not flown with this top. My camera is hot glued to the v1 top so I will need to find some time to make the switch.
  • 1/11/2016 - Added top-v2-no-cam-experimental. I've been doing some indoor LOS flying and wanted to see how it preformed without the FPV gear. Wow, there is a lot of pop.
  • 1/16/2016 - Added top-v2-cam-down-7. This points the camera down 7 degrees. In order to clear the base plate, I had to push the camera forward just a bit and I made the standoffs of cam-down 1mm taller so the camera does not extend below the bottom plate. I also removed the word "experimental" from v2 filenames.
  • 5/9/2016 - Added bottom-v3. This version should be much stronger than v2 but it weighs only ~0.2g more. I was able to increase the thickness of the arms while saving some weight with a few other modifications. I also added some relief to the back to make it easier to plug a USB cable into the Scisky.




Infill: 100%
Layer Height: 0.3mm
Extrusion Width: 0.4mm
Bottom Piece: 4 Perimeters
Top Piece: 2 Perimeters

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What kind of wire could I use as an antenna

you can use some solid copper wire, probably 20-22awg

Thanks so much

Ive built this but im having a bit of a performance issue. I seem to need a lot of throttle to hover (like 60%) and stopping it falling takes a long long time. it just feels very sluggish.
I am using smaller batteries as they are what I had from another one. My batteries are 200 and 240mAh and an unknown C rating. Im also at ~41g weight.
Do you think its the poor performance of the battery which is causing this or is there someone else amiss?

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
punkkills - in reply to anotherjimm

It could be a low C on the batteries, but it could also be cleanflight. Go to the CLI tab in cleanflight confgurator.

Type "get motor_pwm_rate" and hit enter. It should be set to 32000. If it is not, type "set motor_pwm_rate = 32000" and hit enter.

Then type "get max_throttle" and hit enter. It should be set to 2000. If it is not, type "set max_throttle = 2000" and hit enter.

Then type "save" to save your changes.

Please let me know if this helps fix your problem. Also, what version of cleanflight are you using?

Thanks for the suggestions, however I have done both of these as part of the build and verified they have been saved.
I am on cleanflight 1.12.1 Which I think is the latest (it was when i updated yesterday).
I have found the advert from when I bough the 240mAh battery and its advertised as 20C so I guess thats ~50% less current potentially able to be drawn vs a 25C 340mAh. Not that im sure how much current these little motors can draw.
Im not worried about buying a battery to test, just im more itching to fly it now rather than wait ages for the battery!
But I think unless anyone has any other ideas it must be the weak battery?

I had another thought, what is the min and max values for throttle that you observe in the receiver tab? You want these to be as close to 1000 - 2000 as you can get. If max is below 2000, see if you can scale these values up from your radio.

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
punkkills - in reply to anotherjimm

Interesting, I can say that I do feel a major difference in punch between my 35c nano-techs and 25c hubsan replacements, maybe those batteries just aren't quite enough. Your batteries are rated to deliver 4.8A vs 10.5A on the 300mah nano-techs, that's quite a difference.

Yeah even 340mAh 25C can deliver 8.5A. I think thats the issue.

As for values, I am not quite reaching 2000 even with the endpoints set at 125% (ie max) on the transmitter. Though it is around 1970 so only a fraction short.

ill report back when I have better batteries!

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
punkkills - in reply to anotherjimm

Yeah, those values seem too close to be causing issues. I'm going to flash back to 1.12.1 here soon (on Betaflight now). I'll let you know if i see anything funky.

This is great desing. But i have vibration problem. This problem was the living?

I got it on FPV, but dont have any serious vibrations.

Thanks for response vbalko. How can montage to flight controller board on the printing case? I'm use
screw and nut.

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago
vbalko - in reply to Kolamuck

I used double sided foamy sticker tape

FYI, for those who haven't seen these around RCgroups, there's a new motor company kicking out awesome 8.5mm motors for reasonable prices. http://www.amazon.com/Spintech-Sidewinder-Performance-Motors-8-5x20mm/dp/B01DJJ4VQ2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
They're much faster than the hubsan and are supposed to be as good if not better than the MMW darks. I've never used darks but I'm loving these. Especially in our micro builds! Good luck

Oh nice, I'll have to check these out. I have been curious about the dark edition motors but the price tag has always scared me away. Do you have a RCG thread link you can share?

Yeah, here's their initial post. So far I'm very impressed with these!

Awesome man, thanks for sharing here. I need to order a set of these.

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
brig7 - in reply to punkkills

They're sweet! Let me know how you like them!

This is just fantastic, thanks so much for the design.
I am having a frustrating problem: I got hold of a cheap DSMX transmitter (http://www.amazon.com/BLADE-MLP4DSM-4CH-Transmitter-2-4GHz/dp/B003EXSKY8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) and looks like it can work. I enter the cleanflight and I can see the readings changing when I toggle the throttle, yaw etc.
However, I cannot arm the quad and motors won't spin no matter what I did. I also cannot make the motors spin with cleanflight controls. Just wondering if anyone has idea what can be the problems? Faulty micro scisky board or something?

Did you set min throttle at cleanflight? It is possible, that your tx on lowest position of throttle is still too high. So the CF didnt recognize, that throttle is at min and it do not allow you to arm.

take a look here


6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
punkkills - in reply to vbalko

you are on the right track, but it is min_check not min_throttle. min_throttle is the throttle command that the FC will send to the motors/ESCs once min_check has been passed with a physical throttle stick value. The FC will not arm if the throttle stick value is above min_check.

Joshua Bardwell has a great video explaining the difference bentween min/max_check, min/max_throttle and min_command.

Thanks so much for the reply. I tried what you said but no luck. What troubles me is that I cannot even make the motors spin using the motor tab in CleanFlight. I guess I must have made some mistakes in the wiring. I will check later when I have time.

That looks like a 4 channel radio, so you will need to stick arm. You tried arming with throttle low and yaw right? Just wanted to get the basics out of the way.

Go to the receiver tab and make sure the channels move with your sticks. Note the lowest value throttle will go. I bet it is higher than 1000 maybe around 1120?
Then go to the CLI tab. Type "get min_check". That number is probably lower than your minimum throttle but it needs to be higher, the fc won't arm if the throttle is above this value. If it is lower add 20 to the lowest your throttle will go and type "set min_check = ####" where #### is the number you just came up with. If min_check is already higher than you throttle value, we'll have to keep digging.

I hope this helps, let me know what you come up with.

Hello everybody. I have recently published full build instructions for this quad on Instructables (http://bit.ly/1Xmzxuw). Let me know what you think. If you have any suggestions on how to make the build guide better, please let me know!

Is there any place to buy the antenna

You can use a solid copper wire for the antenna, or steal the inner wire from a coax cable.


Been trying to research the reasoning behind your antenna. Why cut it to quarter wavelength, also, do you need to solder the inner core to the outer shield after you cut it in order to complete the circuit and avoid the vtx burning up?

Looking forward to you post update your planning.

May 18, 2016 - Modified May 18, 2016
punkkills - in reply to FraserJ

You know, that's a good question about the quarter wavelength. I never really questioned the why, but found it to be common practice. Here is a blog post that describes making a simple antenna and uses quarter wavelength. https://oscarliang.com/make-simple-whip-antenna-5-8ghz-linear-polo/.

You only need to use the inner part of the coax cable without the shielding. You don't want the shielding in the way that I describe and the images i show; the entire antenna is only as long as necessary for the frequency. Only if you wanted the antenna to be longer, with a tuned unshielded bit, or were using a circular polarized antenna, would want the shielded part of the antenna to be soldered to ground.

Does that answer your question?

Hello, I'm interested to build/print/assembly the quadcopter, I'm waiting for some instructions as other. I would like to ask something else instead, does someone has done a BOM with the price of every piece? I would like to have the total cost amount somehow

May 19, 2016 - Modified May 19, 2016
punkkills - in reply to Powerthbe

Full build instructions are up on Instructables.


Its hard to say an exact price, as different people will need different pieces of equipment depending on what they have and what they need. Also, the price of items can vary depending on what you choose. Your best bet is to figure out what you need and total up the cost of the items.

I am working on instructions as we speak. I want to make sure they are clear and concise, so it might be a few days. I will post back here when they are complete.

Hey I'm really looking forward to building my first quad but don't know how to do it, your parts list is awesome but maybe you could add instructions on how you build it? Thanks !

May 19, 2016 - Modified May 19, 2016
punkkills - in reply to mudpie8

Full build instructions are up on Instructables.


I have some comprehensive instructions on the way. I will post here when they are available.

I'd look forward to something like that :)

This video should get you started, it is for a different frame but the same concepts apply.


Thanks for the part list, Micro Quadcopter is so much fun!! Check out my FPV feed https://youtu.be/5ZrzOYK58lw

May 13, 2016 - Modified May 13, 2016

Thanks for this great contribution to the community! Your part list is very helpful, however I have a question about the FPV system.

What kind of module can I use to receive the video stream and output it to a composite monitor? Are there any low cost parts similar to the transmitter that you could direct me to? I'm planning on making my own FPV headset :)

Hello Woolfie99,

You can use a standalone video receiver. I'm linking 2 options, the first a Boscam FR632, a very popular diversity receiver that uses two antennas to pick the best signal source. The second is a bare bones receiver module that will require soldering. If you go with the bare bones receiver, make sure it is compatible with the channels of your video transmitter. There are of course many other options out there.


Nice, once I'm finished up with the hovership I'm giving this a go. Thanks for your willingness to contribute to the open source network, much respect!

Thanks, it was a lot of fun to design and build :).

Hi, what type of screws do i use to secure the bottom plate to the top plate?

I use nylon machine screws and nuts. I have links in the description under "Nylon Hardware".

Okay, thanks. Im so excited to build this. Thanks for uploading it!

No problem. Post a make when you get it built :D.

Hey Guys,

I just uploaded a new v3 version of the bottom. It should be much stronger than previous versions with only ~0.2g more weight. Print one out and let me know what you think!


I feature your frame in this video, which I have just published: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on7GzVSzEIM

Hope you like it!

All the best,

Nice video!

I have a radiolink at9 will that work with the Scisky board.


No, you need a dsm2 compatible radio.

Thank you what about a dx5e

May 4, 2016 - Modified May 4, 2016
punkkills - in reply to flyboy787

Yes, I believe the dx5e should work.

Cool thank you do you have to flash the firmware before you use the board?

May 4, 2016 - Modified May 4, 2016
punkkills - in reply to flyboy787

You don't need to flash it, It comes with cleanflight installed. You will want to configure it before flying. If you are unfamiliar with cleanflight, search for "cleanflight tutorials", there are tons of resources. I will try to find a good configuration tutorial and put it in the description.

This is my first nano quad and I love it.
I tried first to install betaflight but too much strange behavior (up and down tilt oscillations), and I found a topic where using AlienWiiF1/LuxFloat give more good results in accro mode. In angle mode there is just enough power.
Pids : http://pastebin.com/XTyJhu84

I used 5V from the scisky and no problem for now

May 2, 2016 - Modified May 3, 2016

Have you considered making the camera mount big enough to support the Quanum Elite? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__89778__Quanum_ELITE_TX_CAMERA_COMBO_Micro_Cam_VTX_25mW_40CH_5_8GHz_NTSC_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=quanum

From the dimension specs it looks like it would mean going from your 13.2 X 17.6 X 9mm to 21x19x17mm

This is my first quad build. Thanks for making it look easy.
You mentioned a few times you burned out the card somehow? How would I avoid doing that?

I was originally powering the VTx and camera from the 5v supplied by one of the two connectors near the USB cable of the Scisky. I believe that may have burned up the 5v regulator on the Scisky. To be safe, you might want to consider using a 5v step up voltage regulator and using that to power the VTx and camera from the battery.


What kind of antenna should I use? I'm kind of confused about the one named in the materials section. Also what sort of coding language is used for programming the controller/Quad-copter.

I used the inner wire from a broken FPV antenna. You can also use solid copper wire.

You don't need to be concerned with programming for the flight controller (unless you really want to). It runs open source software, either cleanflight or betaflight. It comes flashed with cleanflight. You will need to configure the software, look for tutorials on setting up cleanflight.

Thanks for the heads up. I sent a message to goodluckbuy asking them to remove it. Lets see what happens.

Not sure if this is a stupid question but how are you powering 5v to the vtx using a 3.7v battery

If you are using the Scisky, it has a 5V output.

This is what I did. I did however burn up the voltage reg on the Scisky and I suspect it may have been because I was drawing power for the FPV gear, so tread with caution. If your FPV gear uses 5v then you might want to use one of these instead.


Depends. Does your VTX have a voltage filter?


How Long is the flight time with the 380mHa battery ? About 5 min ?

I can usually get away with 4 minutes flying pretty fast.

what do you use for the transmitter?

Please read the comments, there are links to many transmitters.

Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016

Is this frame large enough to accommodate the printed circuit board inside the actual Hubsan X4 ? That way I could play around with alternative frames without having to buy new controller or transmitter. I really like the style of this frame, and have already printed it out and painted it post apocalyptic rusted metal.

Yes, it should fit the Hubsan X4 flight controller. I you haven't bought the X4 yet, make sure you get one with 8.5mm motors. I know the H017C does, and I think there is another model but I can't remember.


Apr 20, 2016 - Modified Apr 20, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to punkkills

The one I bought was the H017L -- hope that's okay. I need to look at the motor size for that one.

EDIT: Hrmm it's looking like they might not be the same sized motors.

EDIT #2: Dang just found out they are 7mm.

Someone recommended I get that H107L .. thought they were the same size.. sigh. I always buy the wrong stuff.

EDIT #3: Should I just buy some H107C motors and use the controller that's in the H107L? Would that controller be able to handle the slightly larger motors?

Put a little guard together ... about 5g.. I will make better ones as i crash and work out what is needed .. comments welcome.


Prop guard for 75x75mm micro quad

Nice, that looks great!

You wouldn't happen to have a 7.5mm version? (have the original hubsan x4 (non-fpv) motors laying around)

Does anyone know of a micro flight controller board which either supports dsss protocol or has pwm I'm puts for a micro receiver? I really want to make one of these, but can't find a flight controller.

It might be easier to find a board that supports a PPM and get a PPM receiver. Here is a receiver (not really micro) and a brushless board that does PPM (this will not fit nicely on my frame but there is a remix that helps).


Curious, can you post your PIDs? Also, what motors are you running? I have like NO thrust. No way I could do acro. Not sure why I'm just guessing my motors suck or something.

Apr 17, 2016 - Modified Apr 17, 2016
punkkills - in reply to justindp2006

Hey, sorry for the delay. I am running the hubsan replacement motors that I link to in the description. These are from Betaflight 2.4.1. Make sure that you:
set motor_pwm_rate = 32000
set max_throttle = 2000

Pids are:
set pid_controller = MWREWRITE
set p_pitch = 51
set i_pitch = 37
set d_pitch = 48
set p_roll = 39
set i_roll = 43
set d_roll = 35
set p_yaw = 100
set i_yaw = 50
set d_yaw = 0

I feel like D is pretty high, but I had to push it that far to get bounce back under control. I would love to see a blackbox from this little guy :P.

Apr 14, 2016 - Modified Apr 14, 2016

It is awesome, but I think it should have a better place to put the battery straps. I know rubber bands are good, but battery straps look nicer.

Is there any soldering required?

Yes, motor wires are soldered to the flight controller and all of the FPV equipment wires are soldered to their components.

Hey, I'm thinking about making this. Since it's my very first build and I don't know anything about quads, I'm not going to be using the FPV.
My question is, what do you use to charge the battery? Do I have to buy something separate for that?

What is the flight time on this build?

I get around 3-4 minutes.

Is it possible to buy a higher capacity battery to make it last longer?

What kind of plastic should be used on this print?

Good question, I should probably add it to the description. I would recommend ABS. It should be pretty durable but still rigid enough for a good tune. PLA works well but it will break more easily in a crash. I printed a few in PETG and while it held up well in crashes, the flexibility made it very hard to tune.

I have not tried in other filaments like carbon fiber or nylon so I'm not sure if those might be better. Maybe others have experience?

There are may different filament types, fortunately. I am currently using HIPS, high impact polystyrene, which prints like PLA. You need to run the head about 225C, and the buildplate around 55C. Its cheaper than ABS, and more durable than PLA. One word of caution about nylon....ok it might be a few words....is that it is hygrophobic, which I think means its likes to absorb water. So you need to keep it dry, and if its been sitting out awhile needs to be baked in a small oven at around 125 for a few hours. If not, the moisture in it makes bubbles and the extrusion will be nasty ( you can actually hear the water/air pop as the filament is extruded).
I have carbon infused, magnetic, conductive, wood filled, coffee scented, steel, and flexible to play with!!! Also some PETT, clear PET, and the nylon..of course.

This comment has been deleted.

Anyone know if a Beef's Brushed Board will fit nicely?

I don't think it will fit as the Beef's Brushed board is wider. This is a remixed top that helps with wider FCs.


Micro 105mm (30.5mm FC Edition)
by meoster

Hi, Nice setup, well done! Just a question if I may related to the MicroScisky integrated DSM receiver. Would it bind with a DSSS type Transmitter, by any chances?

I'm not familiar with DSSS transmitters, but if it is not DSM compatible, then I doubt it.

1) How would you bind this to an ORX T-six
2) Would the V1 bottom part fit with the V2 top?
-Sorry, I just started learning about building quadcopters.

1) If you power up the Scisky, it will go into bind mode after 10 seconds. Put the radio into bind mode and it should bind. You might need to put the antennas really close together, like almost touching.

2) Yes, all tops and bottoms are compatible.

Do you attach motors before or after you do the first bind?

This comment has been deleted.

What is the total cost of the parts?

Apr 11, 2016 - Modified Apr 11, 2016
srajaraman - in reply to fzzz

Based on the parts list and the cor. links provided by the author, the total cost of parts comes to ~ $75

MicroScisky - $30.99
4 Hubsan X4 H107c 8.5mm Motors - $10.84
VTX: FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter - $11.16
Camera: 170 Degree Wide Angle Camera - $9.80
Hubsan X4 batteries - $3.89
Ladybird props - $5.99
JST SH Connector - $2.52

am new to the drone world what is the cheapest drone transmitters?

Try the Orange T-six Transmitter. It works with Dsm2.

I list several options that work with the FC I use in the comments below. Check out my response to pctech334.

Apr 9, 2016 - Modified Apr 9, 2016

First off,
Awesome design! Dirt cheap to build and looks fantastic! Im assuming the FC has a integrated dsm2 rx right? If so would this module work with my taranis?



Yeah, thats the module that I use.

Sweet, thanks for the reply!

what is the cost to build?

Apr 9, 2016 - Modified Apr 10, 2016
UltiFix - in reply to toxicfrost99

To build the copter? Without the price of the 3d printed parts and including the module for my taranis I think was roughly $105.

He list's all of the parts in the description so you could always add them up....

Just to let you know I havent built it yet...

Do you use some sort of power filter for your VTX / camera? I build a similar micro FPV set, which I put on an Eachine H8, but which absolutely needed a Pololu power filter, because otherwise the image would be full of interferences once you throttle up. Is this also needed here, or is there already some sort of power filtering integrated into the FC? Many thanks :-)

I didn't need any filtering but I have heard of others with similar setups that had excessive noise. There is a 5v regulator on the FC that should do a bit of filtering.

does anyone know of a video or a site for instructions for this build? Ps- this is my first quad copter build.

Sorry, I don't have any build logs or videos. I would imagine you could find some build logs for other builds using the same flight controller; the same principals would apply to this quad.

I just stumbled on this video that shows a build using the same flight controller. Some of the components are different but the same concepts apply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TljzFBZR4zE

Hi I can see that you r using FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter in your project. Is this has also reciver? Or I need buy also reciver?
In my q250 and q450 I'm using this Boscam FPV 5.8G 8CH AV Wireless Receiver RC805 it will works with FX758-2 5.8G 200mW Video Transmitter??


It is just a transmitter, you will need a video receiver. It looks like it will work with your Boscam receiver. The banggood page lists channels that match with the receiver channels listed here: http://www.buddyrc.com/boscam-5-8g-wireless-av-receiver.html

can i get all the peases with one buy or do i need to get them from diferent places ps very nice desighn

Apr 5, 2016 - Modified Apr 5, 2016


I'm trying this as most or many people here (for the first time a quadcopter) and I read your response to pctech334 about the receiver/remote fpv and so on... but I'm just wondering if this would work as the receiver: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__83195__Fat_Shark_Raceband_5_8GHz_Module.html... that would be what I connect to the Quanum fpv googles to receive video right?

Also, the video transmitter you linked to, is an SMT, but I don't see an actual spot on the flight controller, where do you solder it to or how do you mount it all? or just like in the pictures out in the air? I also don't see where your battery is?

Thanks and sorry about the questions I just want to be sure of everything before I purchase all these "expensive" materials... prob the cheapest is the frame lol...

wait also what's the purpose of the rubber band? holding the battery on the outside? nice...

Hello, as I mention in many comments, If this is your first build, or first experience with quadcopters, I would highly recommend starting without FPV equipment. That removes an entire level of complexity from the build and startup cost.

The vRX that you link to could probably work, but it is intended for use with fat shark goggles that have a swappable module bay. You would be better off with something like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__72733__FR632_Diversity_5_8GHz_32Ch_Auto_Scan_LCD_A_V_Receiver_EU_Warehouse_.html that would fit in the pocket on the side of the Quanum goggles.

There are many resources available for wiring up the video components. Here are a few links.

True, and thanks for your reply, I am new at quadcopter but not at flying, I am transitioning from a one shop stop (already built quadcopter) to a sourcing and learning what makes them tick... since my quadcopter is too expensive to break open, and it's not open source, I decided to ask around... seemed like you had experience in this tiny awesome looking one that's why I asked :)

This might be stupid question but what are you using to fly the quad-copter? I'm planning to make this and was wondering if you were using a phone app or an actual handheld controller.

You need a RC radio controller. Check out the comments below, I listed some options with links in a reply to pctech334.

Nice to see it get some love!

Thanks! I was surprised and excited to see the feature :D.

Yes, congrats.

I'm glad you got featured, there has been some really crap ones lately.

its bout dangety time dis got dem feature

Hello Punkkill! You helped me some time ago Well.....my parts finally came in from China. I just want to say thanks for all your help and on this fantastic little design. Finally getting the hand of FPV (a lot harder than it looks like to those wanting to build this and learn to fly a drone AND FPV, don't recommend) and having such a blast!! Can't wait to finish my MHQ2 "full size"!

Awesome! I'm glad you are having a good time with it. FPV is soooo much fun. I can't get enough :P.

Mar 31, 2016 - Modified Mar 31, 2016
justindp2006 - in reply to punkkills

It really is! I'm just glad I have 6 batteries! I have busted 3 frames today (hard landings) and always have a few extra printed. [By hard landings I mean I found some limbs 50' in the air:) ]

How kann I connect the controler to my radiocommand ?

When you power up the scisky, after 10 seconds it will enter bind mode. You can see this with a rapid flashing red LED. When the skisky is in bind mode, put your radio into bind mode to bind. You might have to get your radio antenna real close (like almost touching) to the scisky antenna to get it to bind.

Anyone know what controller this is in this screenshot I took of a youtube video? He's using it to control a cheap Cheerson CX-10.


So I guess the Cheerson CX-10 must use some sort of standard radio protocol -- anyone know what this would be?

I'd really love to get a good controller that does everything. Would be nice to not have to ever buy another as my experience with quadcopters evolves. I'd like a controller that can control this Cheerson, the DSM2 for this quadcopter thing, and well any other standards there are for even larger copters.

It looks like a Spektrum DX7s: http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=SPM7800.

The Cheerson CX-10 appears to use a proprietary protocol. Worse: the protocol changed between hardware revisions so what works with older versions of the quad won't work with new ones.

I've got a Devo 7E which I've modded to support other protocols (like for my Eachine H8 mini and my Syma X5C). It's pretty cheap, supports DSM2 with a firmware change, and virtually every other protocol with some soldering. A fair amount of manual work to get it to be a nice transmitter. If you want one transmitter that you'll never have to change again and that you don't have to do a bunch of hacking on, I continuously see the Taranis recommended. It's pricy at first, but you never will need another transmitter.

I'm just waiting on the scisky for this quad, then I'll finally get to fly it and can see what the range is like on an unupgraded Devo 7E. If it's too short I'm going to have to do the range boost, which is tricky to do correctly.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to magico13

Awesome, I think I am going to get a Devo 7e.

What's tricky about doing the mod? You just put a jumper wire over the diode and solder both ends. I have a hobby lobby magnifying lamp if need be. I heard to take the diode off but why? IF you just jumper it the current flows in the path of least resistance ignoring the diode. YOu can use the ends of the diode itself to solder to no?

It's a ridiculously tiny component and if you accidentally knock off another component you wreck the transmitter. My soldering iron is really crappy and my skills with it are even worse, so I might use conductive ink instead, but I haven't found any that isn't way overpriced for the amount I need.

If you're confident with your soldering abilities I doubt you'd have many issues with the range upgrade. For me, and for people who haven't soldered much, it is indeed tricky.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to magico13

Well if you mess it up you can always buy a replacement 8s module right? How much is that module?

Also what about conductive paint instead of conductive ink? And use like a 000 brush. Would it handle the current enough? I guess if enough paint?

The modules are harder to find now since they apparently aren't made anymore. The only ones I can find are about $20.

I'm not sure if conductive paint would work or not. I'm planning on getting a new soldering iron soon with a finer tip anyway, so I'll probably make the attempt when I get that and just be careful.

I'm using a multiprotocol TX module in my JR bay of Taranis (friend uses it in his 9x)
we just use two module - nrf and a7105 for controlling hubsan, cheerson and syma x5c copters (many more can be controlled)

Can I use the Cheerson CX-10 flight controller, transmitter, motors, props & battery with this design? I can get one for like $20 off ebay with free shipping.

No. The cx10 is way smaller.

Is there a way to use the transmitter i am getting with the cx-10 with this quadcopter? Can I buy another cheap flight controller that will work with the cheerson cx-10 transmitter and with the husban x4 motors?

Probably not. I don't know what kind of protocol this thing uses, but I'm sure it's not DSM. It's also only 4ch, and the radio has no options, so even if it was compatible, it would be a poor substitute for a 6ch programmable radio.

When you get a separate transmitter with dsm2/dsmx, it will work with many quads, and anything in the 250+ size you can just buy your own receiver.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Jeffeb3

So is the transmitter you went with the best bang for the buck? I can get for $100. the 9xr pro

I really do like that it is opensource as I am a programmer. I could probably add in a lot of special features to automatically control the copter in any way I see fit, in addition to what it already offers. e.g. a string of quick maneuvers.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to JenniferG

Well I ordered the Cheerson CX-10 just now for $19.98 from California. I'll have it in 6 days. This one will get me started, then when I want a more advanced one I'll print this one and order the parts for it.

That sounds like a great way to start. The CX-10 components will not fit in this frame however, it is much smaller. If you were to buy a Hubsan x4 h107c, then you could transfer all of the components to this frame, while using the provided radio. *you need a hubsan with 8.5mm motors for this to work, some have 7mm.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to punkkills

Thanks. I am wondering if the controller firmware on the cx-10 would properly control the 8.5mm motors. I mean it's probably tuned for smaller props and/or motors. You think it'd work? Also would the battery included in the cx-10 be able to power the bigger motors?

It would be an interesting experiment but the firmware is tuned for 6mm motors and smaller props like you say. The battery will power the motors but not effectively or for very long. It is probably around 120mah and you want 300-500mah.

Thank you got a few more questions.

How much flight time do you get? Do you ever put a larger battery on top to get more time?

The flight controller you use, is it opensource firmware with documentation on the pins of the board? This way I could modify it and/or add subcontrollers to my liking. Does the flight controller have features like hover in one spot, ability to talk to a GPS module? perhaps track the person controlling it if they were wearing some tracking device? Was wondering if the flight controller was capable enough to handle say videoing someone riding a bike on a trail or cliffs or whatever. I'm guessing it can't do all that not for $30 and not for this size.

THis is all pretty exciting stuff, thanks again. SOrry for all the newbie questions. By they way I made one of your frames and painted it a post apocalyptic rusted metal :)

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016

I'm starting to go through the parts list and banggood.com is scaring me. They seem really overpriced.

Battery for $1.99 on eBay (banggood.com wants $3.89)
(over 501 sold with 99.2% feedback rating)

5 to 1 charging cable for $1.29 on eBay (banggood.com $3.89)
(72 sold 98.6% feedback rating)
Can I lop off one of these connectors instead of the banggood.com one you listed?

20 props for $0.99 from eba (bangood.com wants $5.99 for 12!)

4 motors for husban x4 -- $6.10 (bangood.com wants $11 for the same thing)http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-8-5mm-CW-CCW-Motor-for-Hubsan-X4-H107D-H107C-H107-A23-RC-Quadcopter-FPV-F-/141865064760?hash=item2107d11938:g:JGQAAOSwHjNV8TaJ

And so forth.. those are just a few examples. Seems like banggood.com charges twice as much as ebay sellers.

This project seems like it would be really affordable for me, buying stuff from ebay.

About the only good deal I can see from banggood.com is the flight controller for $30.. costs like $45 on ebay. Is there a way to use arduino micro and other modules instead? I can get arduino micro for like $1.50 and modules are often only 99 cents for it. Anyone know of another Husban x4 DSM2 flight controller that say costs under $10?

EDIT: After looking into it more it seems like the $30 is pretty fair since it has the gyro, motor controllers, and radio receiver built in. Those radio receiver modules for arduino are quite expensive. Found a 3 axis gyro for only $2.50 though.

i don't trust batteries from ebay/aliexpress/china - it's a hit and miss - i use batteries from hobbyking (yes i know it's from china but they do have better QA) - i order from EU warehouse to save on shipping. as fro the rest of the stuff - it's pretty much the same everywhere

Punkkills, so what do you think about the above parts list? Will that stuff work okay? It's about 1/2 the price of banggood.com. I dont' want to make a mistake and order the wrong stuff.

They sure want a lot for 12 props .. Tiny plastic items from China shouldnt cost so much .. Theyre making a killing! 5.99 ..

Anyways if i get them , i dont like thix mix of orange and black colors, can i paint the props with acrylic paint without any issues?

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016

How many of those battery packs do I need? I notice you say you have a handful. Is just one needed at a time? How do you charge them? Do you have a charger you recommend? Thanks

Printed out the version to bottom and printing out the Pinzon clips now. As you can tell I'm using speech to text at the moment LOL

You only need one battery at a time but the batteries will only last around 4 minutes. You want more so you can keep flying :). I have 9 batteries at the moment :P, Banggood used to sell a 5 pack. I use the linked charger.


Thank you, this is really helpful :)

I am totally new to this and have nothing, no parts, no controller -- zilch :)

I decided this will be the future quadcopter I have ever flown let alone make -- suggested to me by a friend here.

Besides the list of parts in this thing's description, what else will I need? A radio controller/transmitter right? What would be the best one to get? One that I can use for any drone I might later build I guess -- but within reason with respect to cost.

ANy help greatly appreciated, thanks!

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
punkkills - in reply to JenniferG

Hi JenniferG, If this is your first build, I would start without the FPV gear, you don't need the camera or vtx right away. This will allow you to get through the build more easily and will make the cost of entry less.

You will also need a radio as you suggested. I have listed options in several of the comments below, look at my response to pctech334.

Hİ. Good job.
which did you use radio for this quad?

Thanks for answer.

I have a 9XR with FrSky Module. I wonder can I use my radio with modume for it?

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
punkkills - in reply to TECHnic

Thanks TECHnic. I use a Taranis radio with a DSM module. I list other radio options in the comments below.

Mar 23, 2016 - Modified Mar 23, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to punkkills

Do you have a link to this Taranis radio and module? I'd like to see what you actually use. I know you mentioned a couple but are they even as good as the Taranis? The orange one for $60 and you mentioned another for $120. Taking a guess the Tanaris might be $200 but might be worth it?

Mar 15, 2016 - Modified Mar 15, 2016

hi punkkills, this is a fantastic nano frame!! can you upload a 7mm motors version? thanks

Thanks :). I will try to get a 7mm version up when I get some free time. Hopefully this coming weekend.

I am kind of new to this so, fpv is first person view correct? So, will I be able to view what the camera system is displaying? If so is there a controller I must buy that was not under supplies I must purchase? If so which one?

Yes, FPV is first person view. In addition to the items listed, you will need a radio for controlling the quad. If you want to fly FPV, you will also need some way to view the video feed, either goggles or a screen and a video receiver. I have listed options for both in comments below. If you are new to building quadcopters, I would recommend starting without the video gear and getting the hang of flying line of sight.

What is the total cost of the project?

This totally depends on what you have already, what you need, and how fancy you want to get. I probably spent less than $100 to get it up in the air, but I already had some batteries, charger, radio, fpv goggles, and props.

I got mine in the air and the camera system works great when running off of a separate battery, but this is not a long term solution, makes it too heavy and the quad wallows. Amazing clarity, but when I try to run the camera off of the quad battery its unusable, I've watched other peoples videos including yours, mine has NO static or breakups when on a separate battery, but when on the quads battery and even before there is enough throttle to fly the picture is unusable. I tried a 200uf cap across the camera/tx power but that barely helped at all. Any Ideas? Also the tx i have is 3.3v and the camera is 3.3-5, running the camera directly off the lipo, and the tx is after a diode for the voltage drop.

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
punkkills - in reply to Anybodysguess

If you had a voltage regulator in the mix, it might help remove some of the noise. Can your tx handle 5v? You could try a 5v step up. Another option might be a step-up/step-down regulator closer to 3.3v.

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
Anybodysguess - in reply to punkkills

An up and a down regulator. That would add 3 grams at least? I'll keep that in mind though. I'm going to try some stuff tomorrow.

Edit. My TX is 3.3 only

Something more like the link below, that will step up or down depending on the input voltage. I haven't used one of these, so I don't know if it will help with the noise.


Just to keep learning, which controller would you recommend for this quadcopter?
Thanks in advance!

I listed a few options in my response to pctech334 below. The hobby king model is a reasonably priced starter radio (* i don't have any experience with it). I personally use a Taranis with a dsm module. The taranis is an awesome radio, but it is a much more expensive option.


Mar 3, 2016 - Modified Mar 3, 2016

Hey man, is there a guide explaining the antenna frequency stuff? or is the antenna only for the video transmittance? cause right now I'm just trying to get the thing working haha

The antenna I talk about in the details is for the VTX. This is different than the RX antenna on the scisky, don't cut that :). Oscar Laing has a guide about making antennas and I linked a calculator in the description.


Mar 2, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016


I'm getting started with this and I would appreciate so much if someone could tell me if there's a build guide somewhere so I could build the entire system correctly.
Thanks a lot for doing things like this!

Sorry, there is no build guide. You might want to start without FPV gear and get the quad running. The build is relatively simple. Solder the motors to the correct solder pads with the correct polarity and solder on a battery connector. The banggood page for the motors has details about motor rotation and polarity based on the wire colors. You might want to reference a cleanflight motor diagram for the rotation (http://forum.flitetest.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41041&d=1424292878). Next bind your radio. The more challenging part will be configuring the flight controller. Search for "cleanflight tutorial", there are plenty of resources.

Once you are flying and comfortable with the FC configuration, you can install the fpv gear. There are many resources available for wiring a vtx and camera. Here is one http://wisdom.micro-motor-warehouse.com/hc/en-us/articles/204874665-how-to-build-a-5-8Ghz-micro-FPV-setup.

Thank you so much for your answer!

In that case I will print both upper & bottom parts (which ones would you recommend me? I see there are different posible combinations), and then build the quadcopter leaving the fpv gear for a next step.

I would go with v2 parts. The top depends on flying style, there are options for no-camera, camera pointing 12 degrees up (for fast flight) or 7 degrees down (for slow cruising).

If you are having somebody else print it, then I would have them print an extra bottom, while I tried to make it as durable as possible, we are still dealing with printed plastic, they can break. I have recently printed some frames in PETG and those seem the best so far for durability.

Ok, I'll follow your tips.
I'll have the parts printed in a few weeks. I'll say something then.

Thanks for your help!

This uses hubsan motors so would buying a hubsa. Quadcopter for $30 on Amazon and putting it into a racing frame like this and adding FPV work or does the stock motherboard not put out enough current. I know you loose the ability to custom program but I'm looking for an extremely cheap way to build 3 fpv racers. And for $30 you get the receiver motherboard the motors and most importantly the controller.

Mar 2, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016
punkkills - in reply to Anybodysguess

This should work. I know others have done similar. The thing that you might need to add to the list is a 5v step-up regulator to power the fpv gear. You also want to make sure you get a hubsan with 8.5mm motors. I think some versions come with 7mm.


Thank you for replying, I have a few more questions for you though. This is my first DIY quadcopter and I want to make two for my brother and I to race, I've flown quads before, just haven't built one yet, but I have a strong diy electronics background.

I'm looking at buying a Hubsan x4 h107c with the camera because it comes with the bigger 8.5 motors. And using the controller, the receiver flight controller board, and the motors. Now I noticed quite a discrepancy in weights, the Hubsan x4 weights 50G with its internal sd card camera, and yours weighs 40g with fpv tx and camera, is your frame just that much lighter? There is no way the Hubsan flight controller is that heavy, its not any bigger than what you used.

Also I'm looking at using a Boscam TX5823 200mW it is rated for 3.3v and the camera I'm looking at is rated for 3.3 to 5v I should be able to run these directly off the pack without getting a 5v booster like you suggested right?

Mar 4, 2016 - Modified Mar 4, 2016
punkkills - in reply to Anybodysguess

I just weighed my h107c and it is 38g without the battery. Maybe the 50g is with battery? We are right in the same ballpark when you consider the camera gear. I would imagine the FC weighs about the same. I don't think you will have any problems, in fact I know other people have built with the hubsan FC.

I'm not sure how the fpv gear will react to battery voltage, it might just work. I looked at that vtx for this build, but I can't remember if there was a reason I didn't go with it. Keep in mind that battery voltage can fluctuate from as low as 3.1v to 4.2v. I'm sure if you did some searching you could find people with 1S builds using that vtx and can see if a regulator is required.

Ok thanks, Most people using the vtx directly off the 1s said to just put a 200uF or larger cap across the power lines to smooth out the static from the motors, I may try to find an itty bitty ferrite bead in my shop and put that on too to block the motor static.
Thanks I think I am ready to build now, I will definitely post in the made it section once I finish it!

Awesome, can't wait to see it :D.

I wanted to know whether you can make this drone using an Arduino board instead?

really nice job. super pilot skills especially for how small and fast it is! so is it hard to program the fc? is there a program or firmware to download or special flash tool? then i see you're flying it in acro mode so im assuming it has a stable mode also? i want to get started on one, thanks for sharing this quad! the only thing i would want different is a better bigger camera transmitter. hope you compete in the fpv races this summer!

Feb 17, 2016 - Modified Feb 17, 2016
punkkills - in reply to tommy2toes

Thanks tommy! The FC is not terribly difficult to configure, but there is a bit of a learning curve. The flight controller runs opensource firmware and you flash it with the Cleanflight configuration tool using the usb port on the Scisky. The FC comes pre loaded with cleanflight but I run betaflight, the "bleeding edge" sibling.

I do fly in acro, but cleanflight also has self leveling modes. The FC does come with an older version of cleanflight installed. Search for "cleanflight tutorial" or "cleanflight setup" and you will find many videos and blogs that explain the basics. There are tons of resources out there. Here is a video showing the setup of flight mode swithces: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMuKqIKRtdU.

Feb 13, 2016 - Modified Feb 13, 2016

I am just having so much fun with this machine! Thanks for making it.

Since I now have a box of parts from banggood, I want to get more experimental and try another design. You know what would be really cool? A V4 version (as in v-tail with 4 motors, not version 4). The only thing is, I'm not sure how to make it, because the really nice thing about this quadcopter is that everything is in the "easy" print category.

Do you or @mojobromley have any thoughts/ideas on how to do that?

Thanks! I'm glad you like it. I have never experimented with v or a tail frames, so I'm not really sure of the requirements. Would it be possible to experiment with a design with the current frame and some heat to bend the rear motor mounts?

I don't have any experience with them either :) . I glean that you just want the rear two as close as possible, and the front two at 120 deg from each other. The "A" style is supposedly better with yaw control, because the thrust is assisted with the rotation, but the V looks cooler, which is sort of the point.

The naze software has a builtin configuration for vtail. From what I can glean from reading rcgroups, it looks like the angle is more about compromise between lift and yaw. Although I haven't done the math, but I'm guessing the configuration in naze would be better at a single angle.

What did you use to make this design? Are there openscad files you can share?

My kids are going to love it!

it so stinkin cute!

I made a pin and clip to replace the screws and nuts you recommended because i found them to expensive. Maby you like it or want to put it in your description as alternative for the screws:


Screw replacement for Punkkills Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter

Those look great! I added a link in the description.

Thank you sir. Love your design.

Thanks for sharing your make! I'm glad you like it :D.

Feb 10, 2016 - Modified Feb 10, 2016

I'm digging and digging on the forums (newb here) but what is recommended for Transmitters? Can't even find wiring diagrams. Probably making this far more difficult than it is. Just needs to be DSM2 compatible?

Yeah, you need a DSM2 compatible radio. In my response to pctech334 below, I list a few radio options.

There is not a lot of official infomation about the FC. Oversky, which I link below, has some. There is a lot of unofficial information in the RC groups forum. The interesting parts of the board are the solder pads for motors and battery, and usb connection for configuring cleanflight/betaflight. I use one of the other on board connectors for powering FPV gear as those put out a regulated 5v.


Wow, I'm so sorry. I honestly looked on here and tried researching a little on forums and apparently I'm blind. Greatly appreciate the quick reply. I look forward to giving this one a try!

Oh, no worries. Post a make when you have it together :D.

Definitely will. :) What firmware are you running?

I'm running betaflight. I think I'm on version 2.1.6 now but I need to upgrade. betaflight moves fast :P.

Are you doing anything to secure the motors, or just friction fitting them?

I found that when printing in PLA, they would be tight at first, but over time would become a bit looser. I suspect this might be from the PLA becoming soft from heat from the motors. I ended up putting a small amount of electrical style tape (I have some thinner rolls) around the bottom of the motors. I would cut a small piece and wrap under the bottom cap and up the sides. I then would trim off the extra tape sticking up over the motor mounts once fitted. That helps hold them in place and you might even need to use a screw driver to open up the slot a bit when fitting them.

I just loaded up a roll of PETG and am curious how the fit is. I did consider closing up the mounts a bit, but different printers will have different tolerances and others have reported that the fit was tight as is.

Cool, thanks! I had the frame printed by a few different services, the one from Shapeways that was polished easily fit the motors with a little bit of force, the ones from local printers on 3DHubs I had to sand down the inside of the motor mounts a bit to get them to fit at all, but in both cases I've wondered how they'll hold up over time. I've used some heatshrink on the outside of the motor and mount like the 3DFly on one of them, I'm going to see how that holds up before trying some other methods. The heatshrink added about 0.65g.

I'm curious, I haven't gotten mine to that point, but wondering if maybe zip ties to pinch the mounts would solve this? I printed at 105% flow so my fit is very tight right now, Some cheap zip ties wouldn't add hardly any weight to the drone. Just a thought.

I am going to use this as my first quadcopter. Have been creating hobbyking and banggood carts for over 12hours now and still incomplete. I will use as identical parts as possible. Does those Ladybird propellers contain caps, or should those be ordered separately? Or is it so that no separate caps are needed?

No separate cap is needed. The props are push fit onto the motor shafts. It might make things less intimidating (and cheaper!) if you hold off on the fpv gear for your initial build. There will still be plenty to learn and the fpv stuff can alays be added later.

Thanks! You are very active here and supportive for newbies, I have noticed. What you mentioned is actually something I have been wondering basing on your earlier comment: do you really think it is easier to learn RC without FPV gear? I mean, wouldn't it be easier to fly when right and left are really those, and not reversed when you fly back? That is something I have always considered problematic in RC, but with FPV stuff I though that would be no issue. Kinda like all racing, flying and FPS games I have been playing my whole life ;). I do understand that basic controls and maneuvers needs to be learnt first, and for that short range (indoor) practicing is enough. And for that I won't need FPV stuff.

Feb 7, 2016 - Modified Feb 7, 2016
punkkills - in reply to mikanuu

If you are newer to rc in general, I would definitely start without the fpv gear. You will be learning a lot of new things, like setting up your radio and flight controller and learning to fly a multirotor. Throwing fpv into the mix is another layer of complexity, with more stuff to learn and more than twice the upfront cost.

You are correct about fpv being easier with respect to orientation but, like you say, that is after you learn the basics of flying like being able to maintain a tail in hover and simple line of sight maneuvers. I would not strap on the fpv goggles for your first rc flight :P. I have recently been learning line of sight acro flying on another micro I have. It is very rewarding to to flips and rolls inside the house flying in any orientation :D.

would you mind if I created a snap on piece to this to make it shoot airsoft pellets?

I finally got my parts in the shop today, and I'm going to pick them up monday. since this is my first fpv quad, i wondering if anyone could tell me what remote control and fpv goggles to buy that work with this transmitter? or is their a certain channel i have to be on? this stuff is all brand new to me so any advice would be appreciated. thanks

hi jonthebuilder. In my reply to pctech334 below, I listed some options for radio and goggles.

Feb 4, 2016 - Modified Feb 4, 2016

Could somebody in Germany or EU print the V2 cam version and sell it to me? Would love to have it in black/orange like in the photo.

Check 3dhubs.com ... you will find someone who prints it.in your city

Hey great design! I'm looking forward to building a micro and this frame (and parts list!) seems to be great for me. One problem I saw with the Scisky and my setup is that I'm using a FlySky FS-i6 like already mentioned in this thread. I think it would get too expensive for me if I need to buy a new radio, so I'm thinking about stripping its iA6b receiver, which weighs in at 14g. Let's say I could bring it down to half this weight, would this micro be able to carry it?

Thanks timmmmmmmm :). You don't really want to add any more weight than you have to. 7g would be quite a bit extra for this little guy. I can tell a huge difference in thrust when removing my fpv gear and that is removing ~5g. Since the Scisky has a built in RX, I'm not sure how easy it would be to use a separate RX along with it. This is something that you might want to look into.

Are there any models for prop guards that would fit this?

Anything that works for 8.5mm motors should work. Here is one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1263634.

3DFly prop guard
by Mikadoh

How do you power the vtx if it needs 5v, your only using a 1s lipo, little confused about that, so the 1s flight battery powers the flight controller and the vtx?

The Micro Scisky has a built in voltage regulator that outputs 5v on those two JST SH connectors. Tapping into the 5v there allow me to use one 1S and it makes disconnecting all the FPV gear very easy.

Jan 29, 2016 - Modified Jan 29, 2016

Only have my Radio calling out minutes so 3+ with the Spider props & a 500 until you feel the power drop.
Makes it feel like a different quad not sure if i like it though, I can only compare it to going from a 5" prop to a 6".

Do you still get more thrust than with the 380 and ladybird props?

Yes but just noticeable, the hubsan & ladybird props are the way to go.
It's cold here too not sure if the motors will get hot in warmer weather with the spider props..

Jan 28, 2016 - Modified Jan 28, 2016

Should I go with 380mah or 500mah batteries?

I am looking to build this to replace a Nano QX with DIY FPV solution that I am running. I feel I need something a bit more powerful to keep up with the Nano QX FPV models while racing indoors, and getting a proper Nano QX FPV is not an option due to Fat Shark frequencies. Having never run larger 8.5mm motors, I am curious how power hungry they are, and if they can cope with the added weight of the 500mah. I see a lot of similar setups mentioning 750mah batteries, but that seems like it would turn this micro into a bus.

Jan 29, 2016 - Modified Jan 29, 2016
mojobromley - in reply to TimJC

I fly both.
Want speed 380's are 2 grams lighter usually but I only get 4 minutes approx.
The 500's are great for bashing get a solid 5+ min but you can feel the 2+ grams.
Battery's are cheap so get both. :)

My video in the makes is a 500mah by the way.

Thanks. I ordered the 380s. Hopefully all the parts ship before Chinese New Year.

I get the same on the 380's. Just gone one of the 500's, but I haven't had a chance to fly it yet. Mojo, how does the 500 balance with the rolling spider props?

What is the connector type used for sourcing 5v from the i2c/serial ports for FPV? Does anyone have a source of these with crimped wire leads?

These ones from sparkfun work. $1.50 ea. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10359

Thanks. I found them on ebay for $2.65 for 10.

How did you mount/fixate the flight controller? I am having trouble fixating it to the frame such that the FC is aligned (pointing exactly forward).

I used double sided tape. Since the bottom of the Scisky is not flat, I only used two small strips, on the flat parts under the rear motor and solder battery pads.

Do you mean that it won't physically fit in straight?

Thx for all your comments. Did someone tried the remix top with the tight mounted power conector (not the top plate who is higher) and is there enaugh space for the fpv tx ?? Dif someobe flew this thing with turnigy nano tech 300mah and 750mah??

You need to use the Remix complete frame the hole positions for the screws are different.

Just one Question... Did someone killed the frame durning a flight ?? Thx

Not a flight but a crash :)
the frame is pretty resilient but eventually everything gives.

Jan 23, 2016 - Modified Jan 23, 2016
punkkills - in reply to mojobromley

I have heard of breakages from others but I have yet to break a frame myself, even printed in PLA. It is important to try and get the arms to be all perimeters and no infill. The arms are 2.4mm wide so if you specify 0.4mm extrusion width and at least 3 perimeters, the arms will be all perimeters with 6 in total.

One nice thing about the design is that with FPV gear on top, it is very easy to change out the base. You only need to move the motors and flight controller. So less than $0.50 of plastic will take a lot of hits and will be easy to replace if you do break it :).

Can you make a version with the camera angled down?

I added a top piece with a 7 degree downward facing camera.

Hi there, I love this design, but when I print it, I get about 7mm motor hole. not sure if this is right? are they supposed to be stretched to 8.5mm ?

Yes the motor mounts are 8.5mm. Is your slicer trying to scale the model? Is your printer calibrated correctly? If you print a 10x10X10mm calibration cube, what do the dimensions come out to be?

If all else fails, you could scale the model up in the slicer until a motor fits snugly and then print the top at the same scale.

How does PLA work with this little guy? Is PLA holding up to the normal wear and tear, "landings" etc? Im looking at my first 3D printer and the PLA only models are more in my price range.


Jan 13, 2016 - Modified Jan 13, 2016
punkkills - in reply to jk6stringer

PLA has been working great for me. I have only printed this in PLA and with a handful of hard crashes, I haven't broken a frame yet. The curved arms allow some flex to absorb impacts. Even in PLA I can bend the side arms to touch the FC tray without any undo stress in the model. I would imagine that something more flexible like ABS, PET+ or Nylon might be a bit more resilient. In the event of a broken frame, it is super easy to swap the flight components from the base, so just print a few extras just in case and you will be good :D.

Perfect glad to hear it. No doubt the resilience is in the design!

If you want a Nano Qx FPV but have some build skills BUILD THIS!
My Nano QX is dead to me. :)

Printed v2.0 today in 3D Universe PLA, came out to 9.9grams
Printed v2.0 today in ColorFab XT-CF20, came out to 8.2grams
Pictures included under my "Made"

Jan 11, 2016 - Modified Jan 11, 2016
punkkills - in reply to humbleThC

Looks good! Thanks for the numbers. Not bad with the CF filament :D.

I need to get a new scale as it only measures to the gram. In PLA my v2 flutters between 7 and 8g. I would imagine different printer settings and extrusion amounts will make the final weight vary.

I played around (about a dozen) prints of the bottom frame to get just everything dialed in.
Now in CF20 i've got the Bottom+Top down to 7.9grams, and looking amazing. (Updated my Make pictures)

Looks great! I'm curious how that CF filament works out for you.

Hi, I am new to building quads and thought this would be a good project to get my feet wet. I am having the body printed and going to purchase the parts from the list with the lady bird rotors. Couple of questions,

  1. What radio will work with this transmitter? I was looking at the FlySky FS-i6 2.4G 6CH AFHDS RC Transmitter With FS-iA6B Receiver

  2. For the FPV live feed, what do I need to watch what is being transmitted from the camera? Can I use my cell phone for this?

My apologies for my ignorance, just trying to learn as quickly as I can.

Jan 11, 2016 - Modified Feb 6, 2016
punkkills - in reply to pctech334

Hello, vpineiro. Should be a fun first build :D.

  1. The Micro Scisky comes with a built in Dsm2 receiver. I don't think the FlySky system you mention will work. You will need a Dsm2 compatible radio. The Spektrum DX6i is a cheaper (but still pricey) Spektrum option (http://goo.gl/UygzKp). Hobby king sells cheaper OrangeRx radios that are Dsm2 compatible (http://goo.gl/Gn4XdY).

  2. For the FPV feed, your cell phone will not work. You will need a video receiver and some sort of display. Sometimes the display comes with a video receiver built in, sometimes you need to buy a separate receiver. Some people use screens like this (http://goo.gl/a4tE9M - Don't buy this only because I posted the link :P. This is just the first example that I found, I don't know much about screens). I prefer to use goggles. They provide a more immersive experience and you don't have to worry about screen visibility issues like glare. I have a set of Fatshark Dominator V2s (http://goo.gl/LYswMg) with a receiver module (http://goo.gl/CJEuug). A cheaper option is Hobby King's DIY goggles (http://goo.gl/PezQ5c) paired with a standalone receiver (http://goo.gl/Q5yiyU).

Have you flow multirotors before? If you don't have a lot of flying experience, I might recommend building without the FPV gear at first to get the hang of flying line of sight. Plus, it will be a less intimidating and cheaper place to start.

Its a lot of information to take in when building your first quad. RCGroups is your friend. Do your research and ask questions.

As posted below there is a thread dedicated to the Micro Scisky: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2466286.
Here is a good video about Micro Scisky setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TljzFBZR4zE


I was wondering if the 5 inch 800x480 5.8 GHz Little Pilot HD FPV Monitor with Mushroom Antenna and Bracket from Hobby King has a receiver in it?


Thanks, Samuel

I actually just bought one and the answer is yes and a battery too.
you will need to make your own sun shield or you wont be able to see the screen outside it is not included or purchasable..

Jan 9, 2016 - Modified Jan 9, 2016

I will have to say this frame and flight controller have been my favorite basher, I've been trying things I wouldn't normally do without fear and it fly's like my larger racing quads.
I have beaten the nano qx frame, some carbon fiber mico frames, Hubsan's and this will take the beating but it will give the same life expectancy but cheaper.
Reprint and go I can change out a frame in a few minutes. I am doing constant flips and taking the chances with the small gaps.
I like to fly at lunch and every one comments how fast it is. Keep it close to 50g and your'e golden.
Getting 5 minutes on a 1s 500ma 25c

Jan 9, 2016 - Modified Jan 9, 2016
punkkills - in reply to mojobromley

Thanks for the positive comments mojobromley, I'm glad you are enjoying it :D! I am going to try and do a lightening pass this weekend and see if I can shave a few grams off.

What material are you printing in? Is it consistently breaking in the same spot as you posted in the RCG thread?

Are you having any issues with the motor mount tightness? For some odd reason my back motors seem a bit looser after I've put some flying time on it. I'm wondering if I should tighten the motor mounts up a bit or if that problem is better solved post print because of different printer tolerances.


I am only on my 3rd frame, 1st you know 2nd had stress marks everywhere and had to do a connector swap so figured to change out since I had some printed,

My motor mounts are fine (tight actually) but my printer seems to print Id's small.
I like them tight, use a flat head screw driver to spread before inserting.

Never liked how my design never had protection for the transmitter, lost a altitude RC 25mw that way.:(

I'll help stress test the new design!

I did some work last night and was able to shave off around 1.5g from the base. I removed .3mm from the curved motor supports, 1.5mm from the height of the motor mounts and obviously did some reduction in the tray area. I don't think it should compromise the durability much if at all.

Let me know if you think I was too aggressive in any of those reductions.

The remaining weight is in the motor mounts and supports. Reducing motor mount thickness from 1.6mm to 1.2mm and shaving one more layer from the motor mount supports would put it under 5g, but that might be taking things too far. Let me know what you think.

What props are you running? It looks like lady bird in your make, but I thought you mentioned changing to something else in the RCG thread? Parrot maybe? Did you notice a difference in thrust?

I just realized that you designed the FireFly and Flying Squirrel :). So cool.

Jan 9, 2016 - Modified Jan 9, 2016
mojobromley - in reply to punkkills

The props I bought off of Banggood not sure about lady bird but bought them for my Hubsan.
The Parrots I only get 3-3.5 minutes but they're a blast.
Need to repair my printer tonight and I'll try the new frame out.
Had some fun on lunch.

I just did some indoor test flying on the experimental-v1 frame (It's too cold outside :/). I could definitely feel a difference in thrust :D. My crappy scale tells me that the new weight w/o battery is 38g and it doesn't feel any less solid.

If I get some time, I might try to give the same treatment to the top. I'll need to see some significant gains there however since i'm not excited at the prospect of moving the fpv gear to a new top :P. Changing bases is easy, changing tops, not so much.

Jan 9, 2016 - Modified Jan 9, 2016
mojobromley - in reply to punkkills

That's the beauty!
Since I use small zip ties (Don't have many plastic screws) I can change out a base in a few minutes.
The top I agree since I use a shoe goo type adhesive to hold in my Tx and tack in my camera.

Whats the weight on the frame with prescribed printing?

It is just under 10g. When I have a little free time, I'm going to do some lightening. I think I can shave off a few more grams without compromising durability.

Jan 8, 2016 - Modified Jan 8, 2016
ndprsha - in reply to punkkills

Yeah I have a similar project that I am working on for a cheaper eachine quad with 7mm motors but getting the weight down to near stock is challenging.

I'm trying to build this quadcopter, i have a few questions: does the hubsan x4 transmitter work with the MicroScisky flight controller? Does the MicroScisky flight controller have cleanflight already installed? What antenna did you use for the FPV? Thak you and the frame is amazing!!

Thanks dani :). The MicroScisky does come with cleanflight installed but I immediately put betaflight (https://github.com/borisbstyle/betaflight/releases/) on it.

For the FPV antenna, I used the inner wire from the coaxial cable of a broken clover leaf antenna. I used the default frequency on the FX758-2 which is 5865. After soldering the wire on, I cut the antenna to 12.8mm which is the quarter wavelength of that frequency (https://www.easycalculation.com/physics/electromagnetism/antenna-wavelength.php).

If you don't have a broken clover leaf antenna, what would you use as an antenna?

BTW, looks great, I'm hoping to build mine soon. Just ordering parts.

You could probably just use some solid copper wire. I'm not sure what gauge would work best, since I haven't tried it. The following link shows an example of a bare copper wire.


Perfect, thanks.

No, it doesn't work with Hubsan controller. It has a DSM2 receiver built in so you need a compatible radio.

Check this RCGroups thread for a lot of good info regarding MicroScisky: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2466286 If you have any questions just ask there - many people have been flying them for a while so will be able to help you.