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Tapered Pocket Coin-Op

by br3ttb, published

Tapered Pocket Coin-Op by br3ttb Oct 10, 2011

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Description

I thought the Pocket Coin-op would look nicer with some tapered edges. the rounding also makes the opener lighter and speeds up the print a little.

The thickness, coin-size, and taper are all adjustable in the scad. I didn't bother to test changing the other variables as I'm pretty happy with that geometry.

Bonus: Are you full of jealousy seeing all these dualstrusion parts popping up everywhere? well now you can stick it to the man with a three color bottle opener!

Recent Comments

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Just send the file off to netfabb.com and it will make it manifold. Everything I make in sketchup I send to netfabb.

This isn't slicing at ALL with Slic3r, and ends up with a ton of problems with the mesh. 13 intersecting triangles. Not Manifold at ALL. :( Unable to print with Repetier...

Maybe this is just a problem with the STL importer for Sketchup (I was trying to add my own logo to it) but what I ended up with (even before modification) was a model that was not at all manifold. So when I went to print it the MakerWare slicer kind of freaked out and just left out whole sections of the model. It may just be that most people are using SkeinForge and maybe that's better at handling these things, but can anyone confirm that the model is actually a proper solid?

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Instructions

For 1 color just choose taperedopener.stl or taperedopener-M.stl and print.

For 3 color (you'll need a Thingomatic for this):
- Print taperedopener.stl. Make note of the number of layers
and the Z-Layer thickness.

- In ReplicatorG, open the motherboard settings form and write down the zoffset value.

- Now change the zoffset by the number of zlayers and layer
thickness (newZ = oldZ - nlayers*layerthickness)

- Print taperedopener-color2.stl in a different color. When skeining uncheck "Activate Outline".

- Print taperedopener-color3.stl in a third color. When skeining uncheck "Activate Outline".

- Open the motherboard settings and return the zoffset to its original value

- Remove your opener and show it off! ("Oh you've got 2 colors? How quaint.")



A note about Coin Insertion: It had not occurred to me that people might try to insert the coin by pausing mid-print. Apparently this works, but it's not what I do. After printing I slide the penny into the slot as far as I can. Then using a pair of pliers (one jaw on the penny, the other on the short edge of the opener,) I squeeze the penny in the rest of the way.

Comments

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DasWookie on Dec 21, 2013 said:

This isn't slicing at ALL with Slic3r, and ends up with a ton of problems with the mesh. 13 intersecting triangles. Not Manifold at ALL. :( Unable to print with Repetier...

ManiacalLabs on Jul 6, 2013 said:

Maybe this is just a problem with the STL importer for Sketchup (I was trying to add my own logo to it) but what I ended up with (even before modification) was a model that was not at all manifold. So when I went to print it the MakerWare slicer kind of freaked out and just left out whole sections of the model. It may just be that most people are using SkeinForge and maybe that's better at handling these things, but can anyone confirm that the model is actually a proper solid?

ramai on Mar 11, 2014 said:

Just send the file off to netfabb.com and it will make it manifold. Everything I make in sketchup I send to netfabb.

Rich140 on Nov 28, 2012 said:

Built one today and it cracked with the first beer i opened... thoughts?

br3ttb on Nov 29, 2012 said:

>90% infill?

beastman on Aug 29, 2012 said:

wrapped the penny in kapton, slipped in mid print, good to go! 8-)

TechDante on Jul 26, 2012 said:

hi i tied printing this but i could not get the penny to fit wither while pauseing teh print or post print o was wpnderioong ifi needed to scale the thing up soi could get eh coin in

many thanks dante

Busybotz on May 13, 2012 said:

I made 6 or so on my Replicator. I didn't even think to insert the penny mid way, I just pushed it in with vice grips, which works fine. These are great to hand out, I have to learn how to put multiples on the bed so I can print them faster.

Very hand. Thanks 8-)

br3ttb on May 13, 2012 said:

Glad they're working for you! take a look at this derivative: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

he got 4 onto a thingomatic build platform. by examining his modifications to the .scad, you could probably figure out how to make a 6 (or 8?) opener thing for the replicator

neufuture on Feb 2, 2012 said:

I used a tiny bit of gum to hold the penny in place while the print finished! =-X

Kasper on Nov 4, 2011 said:

Scratched my head for awhile since none of the designs or the copies/variations discussed what to do with the penny. Seems to me that's a fairly integral part of this design: when to insert it.

After reading everyone's bridging issues on the original Pocket Coin-Op Bottle Opener (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... I'm thinking it's simply slid in as the last step but luckily I wasn't smart enough to think that far in advance so I simply paused the print at the halfway point (which I
only knew when it started the 1st layer across the "bridge" part), pushed the penny into the soft ABS, then let it go on about its business. Here's how mine turned out.

I'm thinking there should be a pause and either a platform move forward or a nozzle move up
&
amp; away built into the code to allow placing the penny at the halfway point and then closing the slot a little to hold the penny in permanently.

br3ttb on Nov 4, 2011 said:

I love LOVE the pic with both openers on the same keyring. I think you'll find the penny one to be better all around. still. makes me feel great to see those together.

sorry about the penny thing. yeah I insert them after the print. generally I get it started in the opening, then use a pair of standard pliers: one jaw on the penny, one jaw on the short edge of the opener. squeeze and done.

rgoodwin on Oct 14, 2011 said:

For me, Skeinforge 41/43 tries to bridge across the hole diagonally, instead of side to side. Of course there's nothing at the front of the hole on that first bridging layer, so the bridging just falls in ;) Any thoughts on how to cure this? I still managed to make a few of them, but used various tricks (inserting penny during print, pulling it off the bed hot and inserting, etc). Thanks!

JelleAtProtospace on Oct 27, 2011 said:

I have seen the same problem. My solution was to change the angle in fill to either 90 or zero degrees. one of the two will cross over nicely. To bridge the gap even better, I think you should go fast and extrude no or fewer material, as light strings cool better and sag less.

br3ttb on Oct 15, 2011 said:

I'm still using SF35 on replicatorG 25, and haven't encountered this problem, so I'm not sure. generally if something dangles down into the slot I trim it out with an exacto before insertion. also, I use a pair of pliers to squeeze the penny in if there's resistance.

anybody else have any ideas?

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