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InMoov Articulating Neck Joint ReMix

by gestalt73, published

InMoov Articulating Neck Joint ReMix by gestalt73 Jan 4, 2016

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Summary

This is a remix of Bob Houston's outstanding articulated neck mod.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPV6k8QfDY8

You'll need the following:

  • (3) 3m x 20mm socket head cap screws
  • (3) 3m x 12mm machine screws
  • (3) 3m washers
  • (7) #6 or #8 3/4" flathead screws or equivalent
  • (8) #4 1/2" flathead screws or equivalent

Print out every part with the following settings:

  • 100micron layer height
  • 6 perimeters
  • 2mm tops and bottoms
  • 15% infill
  • 3-4mm brim

For ArtNeck_NeckV1 and ArtNeck_NeckUpperV2, I printed those with the same settings but with 250 micron layers. I just couldn't get the settings right to print NeckUpper at 100 microns.

Only these items will require supports:

  • ArtNeck_ServoHolderV2
  • ArtNeck_ServoJointUpperV2

Assembly

  1. Drill out NeckUpper Ball Mounts to 2.5mm, then tap 3mm threads. Lightly sand the ball joints and attach to head using #8 screws.

  2. Insert NeckLower into Neck with larger slot facing the back, align then drill, countersink and use a short machine screw to mate together. Make sure you shorten or snip the screw so that it doesn't extend into the neck. Mount new neck subassembly to InMoov with #8 screws. Mount Head NeckUpper to NeckLower. don't jostle.

  3. Sand external surface of ServoPivot Mount point. Drill pivot hole to 2.5mm, then threads to 3mm. Use ServoPivot to drill out the mount holes from the shoulder frame. See photo. Put left servopivot into right facing inward, then drill for correct mount hole locations. countersink. To mount these, you're going to have to temporarily either remove the arm, or remove the rear shoulder panel. Mount using #8 screws.

  4. Sand mating surface for ServoHolder. Drill pivot hold and servo mount holes to 3mm. Test fit into ServoPivot. Can/Should be tight. Mount to ServoPivot using 3mm washer and 12mm machine screw. Make very tight, turns out it doesn't need to pivot at all.

  5. Drill PistonBaseSide to 3-4mm, temporarily mount to servos. Mount servos to ServoHolder using #4 machine screws.

  6. Drill PistonBaseFront to 3-4mm. Remove neck front pistonbase, and temporarily mount to front Neck servo using #4 machine screws.

  7. Enable neck front servo, and set to 90 degrees position. Grease up PistonBaseFront and balljoint. Test fit PistonFront attempting to mate with head level with floor. If all four orientations are either too high or too low, make a note of what change in rotation would be required to make head level (15 degrees, 45 degrees etc). Remove PistonBaseFront, unscrew horn and reset at desired position. Attach PistonBaseFront and try again. Use 20mm socket head cap screw to affix ball joint. Just turn head to side to access/affix front piston socket head cap screw.

  8. Enable neck side servo, and set to 90 degrees position. Grease up PistonBaseSide and balljoint. Test fit PistonSide attempting to mate with head level with floor. If all four orientations are either too high or too low, make a note of what change in rotation would be required to make head level (15 degrees, 45 degrees etc). Remove PistonBaseSide, unscrew horn and reset at desired position. Attach PistonBaseSide and try again. Use 20mm socket head cap screw to affix ball joint.

  9. Whatever control solution you're using, make sure you set sane max/min values for the new neck nod and side actions.

  10. Enjoy! This is a very cool mod. :-)

Updates:

  • 2016-02-28 NeckJointUpper to V3, widened mounting studs, shortened balljoint backplane for a few more degrees of freedom NeckJointLower to V3, thickened balljoint feature, now both slots are same size to match NeckJointUpper Added HK15328 servo horn if you're using that type of servo.

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having trouble printing the pistons. They get to the part where it starts to widen at the top and then fall over.
Tried rafts and had to resort to printing triangles at 120 degree intervals round the base which I then break off but the tops are printing rough.
This is PLA and I followed your suggestion, any ideas?

You're really going to have to print these with a brim. I printed these with a brim 10mm wide and 0.5mm high.

If you're doing that and it's still getting knocked off, I'd make sure you have enough part cooling. If it's not cooling fast enough the layers get gooey and once the print head starts dragging along the print it's only a matter of time before the print gets knocked off.

If there's no way to get the cooling right, try printing two at once. that will definitely give each layer enough time to cool.

You're really going to have to print these with a brim. I printed these with a brim 10mm wide and 0.5mm high.

If you're doing that and it's still getting knocked off, I'd make sure you have enough part cooling. If it's not cooling fast enough the layers get gooey and once the print head starts dragging along the print it's only a matter of time before the print gets knocked off.

If there's no way to get the cooling right, try printing two at once. that will definitely give each layer enough time to cool.

Have printed most of the neck parts and was looking at the side servo operation. Was thinking of reversing the motor and potentiometer on one servo and combining the PWM signals so they work together but opposite. I'll try some tests and repost if I get success. I found some MG966R servos on Amazon that are tower pro replicas. they are identical apart from the body is slightly taller and different horns supplied, all metal gears, you get 4 for £12.95. big saving and they seam to work fine.

Doing that would be very tricky, as there's no way to guarantee that each servo will separately position correctly relative to each other. But your welcome to give it a shot and see how it works. So far the only two ways I've seen it work are in a master/slave setup where one servo is gutted and driven from the 1st servo board, or if the second servo is complete gutted and is just there for show.

Reversed a servo and linked up with a y cable. So far so good but haven't loaded it as head not yet attached. I'll update on my progress as it goes.
Managed to print the Pistons in two parts and then fuse weld them with a soldering iron, as good as one piece and impossible to separate. I fuse weld all joints now, better than glueing

Hi
Tried to build such a neck and run into a few problems:
1) the servo holders do not turn in line with the piston axis. This stresses the connection of the servo with the piston. I have created a servo left/right holder with relocated turning point. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614949
2) with the new LowBackV3 from Gaël the turning of the head gets blocked. I used my Dremel to remove some of NeckJointUpperV3
3) somehow got an older NeckJointUpperV3 printed. Make sure you use the one with the screw holes at the round connectors and which has no collar on the middle (up/down) connector.
Juerg

ArticulatingNeck modified Servo Holders
by juergm

Hey Juerg,

That's very interesting, I'll take a look.

When I modelled the servo holsters, originally I had thought that they would need to have a 2 axis pivot. After playing around with the model for a while, it appeared that once the angle was set there was no need, so the holster is fixed in position. It might be a degree or two off based on , but I haven't seen any additional stress from having a fixed pivot for the holster. In my Inmoov that pivot is locked once it's in position.

When I get a chance I'll take a look at Gael's updated parts and see if I need to push an update.

Thanks!

Are you also willing to share the script producing the moves in the video or has this not been done with the help of MRL?

Hey juergm,

The demo was done using a custom arduino firmware for Teensy 3.1 paired with a custom serial protocol and c# application. There's nothing in there that could be leveraged by our MRL folks.

I'm in the process of migrating the firmware and framework to ROS, and I'll be publishing updated tools there shortly.
https://github.com/alansrobotlab/inmoov_ros

Thanks!

Hi, there is a mention of HK 15328 servo. Is that the one I should buy or are better alternatives known?

Hey juergm,

You're free to use any standard sized servo. I've been having good luck with the HobbyKing digital servos, and they're only $8.00.
I'm not sure what Gael's current recommendations are for standard sized servos, but you could also follow those.

The only thing I would recommend is metal geared servos, as there's a fair amount of force required.

Thanks!

Works a treat ! Very well designed

Hi Alan,
Great work - I'm just trying to print Neck_Upper, but it loads into S3D at a funny (unexpected) angle? Which way up should I print it?

PS All the Pistons have printed really well.

Ok, NeckUpperV3 and NeckLowerV3 are reoriented to their correct printable positions.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Alan

Hey rekabuk,

Sorry about that, I didn't reorient the part when I exported it. I'll re upload it tonight in the correct orientation.
For now, flip it so that it's flat side down.

Thanks!

Alan

No worries, I'm currently trying to remix it to work with monnerby's new head http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:992918. So I need to print it upside down :-)

Modified InMoov head

hello alan
your print is just amazing
could you say us how you do?
what of material you use it?
thank you

Hey abroise,

Thanks!

All my new printing for InMoov is in PLA.
The piston pieces were all printed at 100 micron layers with multiple part cooling fans so that I could print quickly and hot and still get a very strong part.

Everything else in this remix was printed at 250microns layers.

Everything was printed with 6 perimeters, 2mm tops and bottoms, 16% infill. The resulting parts are very strong.

  • 2016-02-28 NeckJointUpper to V3, widened mounting studs, shortened balljoint backplane for a few more degrees of freedom NeckJointLower to V3, thickened balljoint feature, now both slots are same size to match NeckJointUpper Added HK15328 servo horn if you're using that type of servo.

Thanks!. It was alot of fun to work on. I just pushed a minor update, and I think that's going to be it. The design works very well.

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