The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02

by Toranado3D, published

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02 by Toranado3D Jan 5, 2016

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UPDATE - 10/18/2016 - New 40mm fan duct is now released. Download Now

UPDATE - 10/10/2016 -I recently 3D-printed a test fixture for 40mm bed cooling fans and completed a LOT of testing on different fans (I ordered over a dozen high-speed/high CFM fans and built the test fixture over a jeweler's scale to test the amount of pressure they generate). I finally narrowed it down to the best one I had and printed a 3D Benchy with FANTASTIC results. I also updated the 40mm fan duct to get the airflow closer and directly onto the nozzle tip (will upload the new .STL tonight).

THIS FAN performed best and it works great. However, I found that Delta makes an EVEN HIGHER CFM FAN and I have 2 of them on the way for further testing.

I'd recommend that you print the new fan duct, it is an excellent upgrade. I have also updated the BOM at the bottom of this details page with the 40mm fan link.

Note: If you upgrade to this fan you will have to remove your 40mm fan cover, as this fan is a 40x40x15.

Click Here For Latest Update Info - 9-9-2016

E-Z Hotend Removal - Instructional Video

Check out THIS MAKE by Brakow87 - he has tons of photos of his Toranado setup - a perfect one for those who are fans of Storm-troopers! :

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - Why the Toranado?

Build Instructions - Current Build 2.01

  • Significantly lighter than NEMA-17 geared Extruders
  • Removable Hot-end sub-assembly for EASY nozzle swaps!
  • All-in-one
  • All-Metal USA-Made 48p Precision Gears (~5:1 Differential)
  • Uses Ultibot's High Performance MK7 Drive Gear
  • Modular Design - All parts are easily printable without structure in your material of choice (PLA/ABS/PETG).
  • Designed for use with E3Dv6 1.75mm Universal (Original and Clone versions).
  • 30mm airflow is captured and directed away from print (prevents contamination with print bed).
  • Extraordinarily Attractive (like the one who designed it*).

*Note: There is still some minor discussion as to the validity of the designer being attractive.

Version 1.0 and 1.1 Legacy Support Site

Hardware Kits - v2.0 Toranado Kits

Note: If you order multiple kits, I always combine shippers and refund the extra eBay shipping charges (so long as I can fit your kits in a single mailer). I can fit several kits in a single mailer.

  • v2.0 - Fastener Kit Only
    -- To complete extruder you will need: All plastic parts (purchased or printed), items in v2.0 Gear and Shaft Kit, bearings, shaft collar, NEMA-14 motor, Ultibot 1.75mm Drive Gear, E3Dv6 hot-end assembly, and 40mm bed cooling fan. Full B.O.M. is at the bottom of this page.

  • v2.0 - Gear and Shaft Kit Only
    -- To complete extruder you will need: All plastic parts (purchased or printed), items in v2.0 Fastener Kit, bearings, shaft collar, NEMA-14 motor, Ultibot 1.75mm Drive Gear, E3Dv6 hot-end assembly, and 40mm bed cooling fan. Full B.O.M. is at the bottom of this page.

  • v2.0 - Combo: Gears, Shafts. All Fasteners
    -- To complete extruder you will need: All plastic parts (purchased or printed), bearings, shaft collar, NEMA-14 motor, Ultibot 1.75mm Drive Gear, E3Dv6 hot-end assembly, and 40mm bed cooling fan. Full B.O.M. is at the bottom of this page.

  • v2.0 - Combo+: Gears, Shafts, All Fasteners, Bearings, Shaft Collar
    -- To complete extruder you will need: All plastic parts (purchased or printed), NEMA-14 motor, Ultibot 1.75mm Drive Gear, E3Dv6 hot-end assembly, and 40mm bed cooling fan. Full B.O.M. is at the bottom of this page.

  • v2.0 - Toranado BLACK Full Plastic Kit - LH Version
    -- This is a full plastic kit for those who don't desire printing their own plastic parts.

  • Expect 5-10 days for handling on all kit orders as I continually replenish stock

Parts Checklist

Thingiverse Community Involvement - The Toranado is well supported by the Thingiverse Community and MAKERS have added the following THINGS to support the Toranado:


Also compatible with i3 Rework and typical 23x23mm x-carriage hole patterns.



How I Designed This

I met a guy named Big Cooter, and he pushed me over a cliff.

Technical Data

Fine Tuning Your Extruder

Setting the Extruder Steps Per Millimeter:

e_steps_per_mm calculation

Ultibot 1.75mm Drive Gear

Several Makers have tried to use Drive gears other than the one I spec'd from Ultibot. Unless you can find a drive gear that has the same effective diameter, I do not recommend using it - as the tangent point on the bearing will not apply force in the proper area on the drive gear. It is essential your bearing align well to the drive gear. I am currently looking for ways to include proper drive gears in future kits.

The NEMA-14 Stepper Motor

The motor I have spec'd is rated at 500mA, and even at the rated voltage NEMA14's run hot - be sure not to exceed the rated voltage. Also, You MUST follow Item #9 of the Build Instructions as well - isolating the motor heat from the extruder mount is critical.

How to set the NEMA-14 properly For the popular RAMPS 1.4 setups:

DRV8825 1/32 stepper - you should take a DC voltage measurement exactly like this. To properly set the motor current, you should adjust your potentiometer to get the reference voltage as close to 0.25V as possible. 0.25V = 500mA (0.5A) to the motor. (Any VREF measurement between 0.24-0.26 should work fine). Formula: Measured VREF x 2 = Motor Current

Pololou A4988 Driver - measure to voltage exactly like this. If you are using drivers from Pololou - to properly set the motor current, you should adjust your potentiometer to get the reference voltage as close to 0.2V as possible. 0.2V = 500mA to the motor. (Any setting between 0.19-0.21 should work fine). Formula: Measured VREF x 2.5 = Motor Current.

NOTE: If you are using certain Chinese clones of the A4988 Driver, the formula is different. See This Post about adjusting your voltage setting on the stepper driver, depending on the type of A4988 that you have.

NEMA-14 WIRING to RAMPS1.4 w Ardino Mega 2560

Print Settings

.STL files and recommended print settings (with a 0.4mm nozzle)

  • 2.0-30mmfanmount-LH/RH.stl: 4 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 25% infill
  • 2.0-decorationcover-LH/RH.stl: 4 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-extruderbase-LH/RH.stl: 3 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 50% infill
  • 2.0-idler-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 80% infill
  • 2.0-idlerholder-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 25% infill
  • 2.0-idlertensioner-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 80% infill
  • 2.0-30mmvent-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 25% infill
  • 2.0-gearprotector-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-40mmfanduct.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-lowercover-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-decorationspacer-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-conncoverbase-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-smallgearcover-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-conncover-he-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-bearingholder-LH/RH.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-washer-M5.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-gearcover.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-40mmfancover.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-30mmfancover.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.0-30mmfancover-lownoise.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill

What You Will Need to Build

Complete Toranado Bill of Material

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I am so glad that E3D are making a big change to the BigBox, now it will have the X-axis rods running vertically like the Prusa instead of horizontally. Means I can adapt this to the BigBox soon. They are setting up a dual x-carriage with independent extruders, I just need to see if this will also work in such a configuration.

I am sure it can be configured for the horizontal rods. :)

Yeah, but this way I could get it up and running faster. How wide are these?

Is the new 40mm fan duct up yet? The one under Files says last updated June 29.

It is posted

Thanks. I now have it in my hands. Now I just need to figure out how to install it without removing the extruder from the printer completely, it's such a pain to mount.

Oct 20, 2016 - Modified Oct 20, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to AbuMaia

Got it figured out. Remove the big gear and three screws, and the bottom piece falls out. Quick swap, and it's already up and printing again.

A bonus of this new fan duct, is I think there's enough room now on the bottom to place a self-adhesive LED strip. The side-shining ones that you can find in the automotive section in WalMart.

Successfully added lights to the new 40mm fan duct. Pics are in a Make.

No - I am so sorry - will try to get it posted tonight... :)

Hey, hello, I made a plastic gears for your extruder!

Experimental! the Toranado plastic gear

Expect your plastic printed pinion gear to loosen and slip on motor shaft ... motor heat & plastic stress relaxation are my prior experiences. This is one of the big challenges with reduced size extruders (motors smaller than NEMA 17) .. size reduction comes from smaller motor + smaller diameter pinion gear. That smaller pinion gear has thin walls / features ... in plastic, the shaft set screw can't be torqued to a high level, and then the plastic relaxes quickly due to high stress in thin walls .. then add the heat from pushing a smaller motor with current required for job. Personally, I did build some titanium sleeved 3D printed pinion gears, and they worked Great! ... but fabbing them was a lot of work and material cost, made the pinions that Wes (Toranado 3D) is selling seem cheap. Also, 3D printed plastic gear runout and non-uniformity forces a setup with a lot of loose backlash through half the big gear rotation ... Wes' gears run almost dead perfect (measured runout myself), they can be setup tight, no sloppy backlash, and no binding. I admit, it's fun to 3D print gears and see them work, ... but for an extruder where I want the best print quality and can't afford failed multiple hour print jobs, affordable hobbed machined metal gears are a must have ... I'm done messing with printed extruder gears.

A simple piece to hold some leds for the Toranado.


Leds for the The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder

Is the BL Touch wiring fished through the JST connectors as well? In the video of the jack-nut removal process that is on youtube, I only counted 6 pins, which accounts for the heater cartridge, thermistor, and cooling fan on the removable hot-end fixture... And it doesn't look like the BL touch attaches to the hot-end fixture... so where are the wires routed?

The BL Touch wires be routed alongside the NEMA-14 motor wires, behind the extruder and up into the harness. You are correct that the only current provisions for the integrated JST connection system are the wires being used for the quick hotend removal (thermistor, heater cart. and 30mm heatsink fan).

thank you for the clarification. looks like a great thingi.

Oct 4, 2016 - Modified Oct 4, 2016

Is this thing mountable on a Anet A8??

It looks like an pretty standard i3. so I would assume it would work. Measure the mounting pattern and compare it to the available mounts on the Details page.

Digi-Key sells the RCY crimp connectors for the JST male/female quick connectors used in the Toranado. Accepts 28 to 22 AWG.

Pin contact SYM-001T-P0.5, Digi-Key # 455-1909-1-ND

Socket contact SYF-001T-P0.6, Digi-Key # 455-2652-1-ND

I ordered 25 of each for $3.95, plus $3.40 for 1st class USPS delivery.
Have 2 assemblies, got extra connectors to practice with before cutting.
Really hate soldering, and shrink wrap :p

I enjoy soldering and pigtails, really just a matter of preference, just be sure you make good connections. :)

I had a small problem with the 5mm collar. I tried to order the one you recommended from McMaster-Carr but they would not ship the collar overseas. I found one on banggood http://www.banggood.com/8pcs-3-16MM-Drill-Bit-Shaft-Depth-Stop-Collars-Ring-Set-Wood-Drills-p-966196.html which has a 5mm collar but it turned out to have a 15mm OD instead of 13mm.

I altered the decorative spacer/cover in tinkercad but because of how tinkercad works it was basically guesswork centering the cylinder to remove the space required.

Can you please update the materials list to include the required OD of collar. Also if you could add the collar to the v2.0 combo as well make it easier to find the correct collar.

So far my build is coming along great and it is looking amazing. I am just about ready to commit and disassemble my current extruder and put this on.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1758505 is another option. All you need is an m3 grub screw. :)

Shaft collar for Toranado Precision Geared Extruder

You beautiful bastard. This is awesome.

Thank you. However, my parents were married at the moment of my conception.

Any one want a completed Toranado? Way too many irons in the fire.
Just needs the E3D V6 hot end. Printed in MakerGeeks high-temp Raptor PLA-- Vivid Blue with Vivid Red accents.

See it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:255218

First $80 (more than what I have in parts) offered shipped Priority in the USA.
All new parts--recommended Pololu NEMA 14 motor, gears, shafts, bearings, screws, fans, wires--installed except hot end. Extra MK7 drive gear used as collar. Even throw in a set of ball-end 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex wrenches. -- [email protected] if interested.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02
by idig3d
MKSA - in reply to idig3d

80 bucks ??? A Titan extruder goes for 45 pound, ~60 $

Sep 27, 2016 - Modified Sep 27, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to MKSA

Actually, this would be a better point of comparison, since he is selling his fully assembled unit with motor, fans, etc.

You can pick up a good cloned hotend kit for $8-15 dollars on ebay.

Technically, he is violating the non-commercial attribution on this THING (which I watch closely), but it seems like he is just selling the unit he had intended for his personal use this one time. If you can handle the Superman colors, it looks like a good deal.

Sep 27, 2016 - Modified Sep 27, 2016
idig3d - in reply to Toranado3D

Thanks. I'm basically selling if for the parts I have in it. Someone could use it as is, or strip the parts and print in their favorite colors. With $8 priority shipping. not making anything on it. The motor was almost $19 shipped. The hardware and gears kit from eBay fro the designer. Big gear drilled.

Seriously, too many spinning plates and bowls in the air.

$75 shipped in the US anyone? -- [email protected]


Any chance of getting a cleaned up step file of 2.0-lowercover-LH-wpads?
Have a home brew bltouch type probe that I'd like to interface in.


Private msg me please.

could you make a price for 10 piece
v2.0 - Gear and Shaft Kit Only
without ebay for avoided costs
thank you

Any ideas on the kind of springs to use for the idler? I have everything else on the BOM, springs are all thats left.
Thanks :)

Actually, these are one of the most difficult items for me to source. I still get my kit springs from a local hardware store. When I was building the extruder for personal use, I just took the M3 bolt to the hardware store with me and found springs that would do the job.


Can't publish a remix so here's my modified cartridge parts for the Prometheus all metal hot end:

Maybe post some pics in the MADE section, along with the E3Dv6.

Prometheus for Toranado


Please let me know how it works when you test it, etc. and I will add it to the list of addons.

Cheers :)

Had to modify the Extruder Base. Not for the Prometheus, so I can mount it to my X-Carriage by adding a 4th hole 46mm above the two horizontal holes. Plus a hole for a 1/4" tube as a filament guide from the spool. Have V groove idler bearing to use as the tensioner, so don't need the kit's 2mm I.D. PTFE tube.

ExtruderBase-RX.STL file is with the above linked Prometheus stuff.

Comments deleted.

Waiting excitedly for you to re-list the fastener + gears kits...

it says buy kits ?? you sell them ? what typically comes with the kit and would you ne to willing to sell a fully built one of course sold for more?

Yes, I will be listing them tonight/tomorrow.

Yes, I plan on doing that (fully assembled units)

Hello ;)

Where will they be listed ? On the first page ?
I just don't want to miss when they come ;)

Best regards,

Sep 15, 2016 - Modified Sep 15, 2016
kingkuul - in reply to Toranado3D

well if its compatible with a wanhao i3 consider me sold for a fully built one :)

I really like this design it looks amazing. I was wondering if there is a modification file that will slow for this to mount in a robo3d?

wondering the same lol

I actually found one on the deep dark web. One more question is E3d v6 the only hot end that will work for this or will the stock metal hotend on the Robo3d fit?

You have a Robo3D mount that will work with this v2.0 Toranado?

It took awhile to find but this guy did it.

Toranado Robo3d R1+ Carrier and Fan

Yes, I worked with Jaystar a few months back, he made that for the Toranado v1.0 - it is not compatible w 2.0.

Lol dang I feel like an idiot. I thought I found something sorry to wast your time.

Wes&BigCooter: Have you folk had a chance to play with:
The sock looks like it would complement the removable hot-end of the Toranado --- (don't if the clearance around the block would allow the sock without modification)
Anywho, what do you guys think?
Thanks St. George

Sock kit looks like a great product from E3D, but I believe it only fits the newer V6 blocks which use cartridge thermistors (the heater block is a few millimeters longer)??? The sock should help to keep plastic from sticking to the the brass nozzle, and of course insulates the heater block, which is a MUST for best print quality! Currently, all my pluggable V6 hotends are the older style and are insulated with ceramic felt wrapped with Kapton tape, ugly, but functional.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02
by dkcsn

Looks Good
St. George

Does anyone have an STL file of the Toranado fully assembled? It would make my life easier if I didn't have to make the file myself. :-)

There are package models you can download for this...

A simply beautiful piece of engineering design! Always inspires me whenever I look at it.
I'm currently doing a redesign for my own-design CoreXY. The issue is that while the carriage is very compact, robust and simple to put together, its not easy to swap parts! This is definitely helping me with the new design! :)

where are the kits sold?

I'll have them up in the next couple days

Ebay when they're available. Wes puts up links on the Thing Detail page.

Hello Sir

I'm looking for a compact extruder for my custom printer that I'm about to build. I came across your design and I think it looks (and for what I've seen preformes) very good. I'll build dual x carriage printer and your extruder would be perfect for this. I have several questions:

  1. I'm from Slovenia (Europe) and I would like to know where to order gears for this printer ?
  2. Will you made 3mm filament version of this extruder ? I have 3 E3D 3mm extruders already and it will be very usefull if I could use them. Also I already have 5 MK8 drive gears for 3mm filament from my previous build. Are those gonna work ? What parts would I have to change in order to get 3mm filament working ?
  3. I have K8200 as my work horse heavily modified and I can't find mount for it ?

I'm building new printer from scratch because I want to eliminate all (or most of the flaws) that I've seen in cheep 3D printers. It's gonna have all the bells and whistles that are on the market and some more. So I think your extruder would be a great asset for my design. I'll post build instructions here and on instructables.com when I'll have my prototype running, because I want everyone to have a chance to build proper 3D printer that has both precision and repeatability. No more problems with first layer not sticking and usual stuff. I like to incoporate your extruder with that design.

Best regards,

Sep 10, 2016 - Modified Sep 10, 2016
Prot0typ1cal - in reply to spetovar

I think they're out of kits at the moment, hopefully will be relisted soon on eBay. Seller is Toranado3D.
There.s a 8200 mount here:

I'm building a dual X carriage machine myself, with Toranados :)
Like this, only more robust for a CNC option:

Suggest you use a 625 V V bearing for the idler, the Mk9 upgrade.

TORANADO Support for K8200 Alu Profile

Thank you for your reply!

Thank you for mount. It was strange I didn't found it... I looked for K8200 Toranado and nothing. Well there it is :)
I looked for Sigma and it seems to be solid build. I'm building big 3D printer with CNC and laser support. So it will be very robust.
I haven't work out all the details, but when I do I'll post it.
I have some MK8 lying around I'll go with those. But thank you for suggestion.

All I need are those gears for extruder other than that I'll build everything myself. So I'll have to wait, because the seller you've mentioned doesn't exist. I could make gears myself (I work with CNCs) but it seems only fair that we buy something when gentlemans put so much time in this.

Do you have any info on 3mm option of this extruder ?

Best regards,

I haven't been able to locate the 2.0-shaftcollar.stl to use instead of the metal version. Is it in a different set of files than The_Toranado_Precision_Geared_1.75mmExtruder-_v2.0.zip?

I am sorry but I forgot to include the .STL on this page.

It is now uploaded.

It is now in both the LH and RH .zip files as well.



I finished printing the 2.01-bearingholder-LH - i really can't tell the difference to the 2.0 when they are on the table. - Just love the design of the Extruder

Look at the neck area where the tensioner interfaces with it... I added large angles to reinforce it.

The link for the k8200 mount is broken, anyone have a mount?

I will post you again the file

Trojan, if you have the file please send it - looks like Merlin is no longer on Thingiverse. For now, I have to remove the link.

The K8200 support is uploaded

Thank you, linked to your THING. :)

No Worries :-)

Sep 5, 2016 - Modified Sep 5, 2016

Wes & BigCooter,

I'm in the midst of printing two Toronado 2.0 extruders. In doing so, I'll need to measure and making a mounting plate suitable for the TAZ 4/5/6 series of 3D printers. The TAZ 6 integrates an auto-level mechanism that requires the hot end to make contact with four metal discs on the periphery of the build plate.

I'm not up to the task of modifying the beautiful design you've put together, to add another pair of wires to the JST connector on the removable/replaceable hotend.

Would you consider making a variant version that has 4x JST connectors? I need one more pair for the feed/return wires. Having an extra pair of wires could be useful for a number of other leveling probes ( including the already supported BLTouch ). As a corollary question -- is there a better way than to add another connector?


I am currently working on a connection system upgrade... let me finish that, and we can use that as a starting point for considering the possibility of what you are thinking here...

I have finished both extruders ( Will be posting the make -- it's also a "StormTrooper White/Black" since I used white PETG to print them ). For now, I'm routing the auto-level lead directly along the side... not the most elegant, but it works.

Definitely looking forward to the connection system upgrade. Looks like everything works well at 24V, and the JST connectors are handling the amperage well so far.


Cool. Will the upgrade have higher gauge wires for the heater cartridge or the possibility of using two pairs of smaller wires? I have a fully built Toranado with an E3dv6 that I've been reluctant to install due to the JST pigtails, which are 22 AWG. I'm no EE, but a 12V 40W heater can draw 3.3A. 22 AWG is only rated at 0.92A maximum power transmission (bundled), 7A open air; our wires are somewhat bundled and partially enclosed in an elevated temperature environment, so I'm a little uneasy. Anyone having heating performance issues or melted wires related to this?

My wires have been bundled and covered, hundreds of hours of printing, they do not get warm at all in my open air environment (My i3 rework). .92A for power transmission must have other assumptions built in other than just the fact that it is bundled - to explain the drop from 7A to 0.92...

Anyway, I am running exactly what you mentioned above... 12v 40W heater @ 3.3A. This slightly exceeds the JST terminal rating as well (3A) - I have had zero issues in hundreds and hundreds of hours of printing on my setup, and I have yet to troubleshoot any issues with the JST terminals and 22AWG wire.

Great, thanks! And gorgeous design work!

I used just the JST connectors from a connector kit on my builds. Some black and some red see pics http://www.thingiverse.com/make:241934 . I used the "cut-off" for the run between the connector and the controller. From what I gather, the connector itself is capable. I would have hesitation about the pigtails too. If you go this route, the crimping too is a must!

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02

I soldered all of my splice connections - and then used heatshrink over the soldered splices. Works great.

Comments deleted.

Sure, works for me.

I'm printing a the time Left-Hand and Right-Hand extruder. I've problem to print the ilder 2.01. The part touch not the heating bed, because the wpad haven't the same level. That make problem by the printing process.
A good modification would be also to fix the axis to the ilder with to screws.

Thank you very mutch for this genial exdruder.

Re-download the files. You will see that when I originally posted them (8-26-2016) there was an error in the file - the error that you are seeing. I fixed this issue on 8-29-2016 and re-uploaded the proper files.



I just printed a couple Toronado parts, both LH and LR for the idler. Here's the output from Simplify3D showing the model from the side. This is sliced at 150 micron, and the wpad is level with the bottom. What slicer / planner are you using?



Hi Martin

I use the software Simply3D and have a Reprap prusa i3 3D printer. The model where I use have the index 2.01.

Nozzle 0.3mm, Layer step 0.15mm, 240°C with ABS-X

Look at my picture the first layer of the parts has not the same level as th wpad.


Did you use an other index of the parts

Kind Regards


You have the wrong version of the file - re-download it.

Thank's a lot for the advise. It's works know. Do you know, if there some other issue at the old version?
Becouse me printer is working 24h per day to make the parts for the extruder.

Thank you for your help.


Simplify3D 3.1.0 on OSX Sierra, part is 2.01-idler-RH-wpad, settings are nozzle 0.30mm, multiplier 1.00 w/ extrusion width 0.38, Layer step 0.20mm ( this is from the specifications given for this by Wes ), infill 80%, 2 shells, 4 top and 4 bottom layers, rectilinear infill with ABS settings -- layer 1


The file hasn't changed recently, but your layer height of 0.15mm vs 0.20mm may make a difference?


Hi Martin

I've tested all parameters, but I get alwas the same result.

Did you have a idea for too fix this problem?

Thank's for your feedback


My only suggestion would be to re-download the file, or change slicer?

Did you test both the LH and RH variants?

Testing out the 2.01 parts this morning. I had to cut my tensioning springs a bit because I was putting so much pressure on the filament that the motor stopped even at max current. There's a nice gap at the top between the tensioner assembly and the frame now so I know I can actually adjust tension at this point. The first print is looking very good, so far. One minor change I made was adding a small tab on the front of the tensioner to make it easier to grip. It almost looks like a Killroy face when you print the part but it works well for me.

It looks like a great job on the modification.

OK, I've used it for a full day and my initial impressions were correct; the 2.01 parts are a big improvement. Two rolls of filament that were unusable before are now feeding nicely. Thanks for this fix.

Thank you. Always ensure you have noticeable room between the idler and extruder base.

Sep 4, 2016 - Modified Sep 4, 2016

Another comment to the 2.0 Assembly Instructions.
It could be great having arrows on the Assembly Instructions indicating the airflow of the fan - to be 100% sure :-)

Best Regards

Thank you for the suggestion.

Almost finished building my Prusa i3. I its gonna be so cool with the Tornado Extruder and BLTouch - right now printing the 2.01 updates.
Two Questions
Using this Nema 14 Bipolar Stepper 12V 0.4A 14Ncm(20oz.in) 14HS10-0404S -
with DRV8825 1/32 stepper

How should the bridge switches be set on the Ramp? all three, like this ?

Measured VREF should be 0,2V right ?

Best Regards
Christian Søgaard Nielsen

1) Yes, all 3 should be jumpered.

2) For the Pololu 500mA stepper that I spec'd, you will need your vREF measurement to be between 0.25V and 0.29V - this will work great if you get it there.


HI Wes.
Have you ever thought about using a 50mm blow radial fan?

Yes. I purchased 2 of them from Banggood. - and am looking to try to find a way to add this as an option w/o blowing up the whole design (simply replacing the 40mm fan duct with something to accommodate it would be nice. Yes, I stay current with these kind of trends and I know these fans generate more pressure in the duct... '

Looing into it - Yes. Although, I still question it as a necessity because... using my current fan, and extruding about 25mm of plastic (allowing it to hang from the noozzle... and turning my fan 40mm bed fan to 100%... there is enough airflow to bend the filament string 45 degrees, it is moving plenty of air to cool the print bed.

E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3
by Tech2C

The main idea would be improving the overhangs, so we could use less support.

When I was using the E3Dv6 hotend with a bowden extruder, I had two 50mm blow radial fan and it was amazing!

This looks great and I have ordered all the parts I will need and now I just need to get and not just waiting the 2-3 weeks for everything to make it's way from the US to Australia.

So I can get a jump on this I would like to start redesigning my x-carriage to be able to accept the new extruder. I have look at the documentation and I can't find anything on the mounting layout. I was wondering if you have a CAD diagram with all the dimensions to where the mount points are and the distances between significant points such as the tip of the nozzle and layer fan. Also if there are any consideration like the space between the layer fan and obstructions directly in front of it (directly behind the extruder)

Thanks for all the great work and I can't wait to get it going.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02

Thanks I did notice this after I posted this but when I compare it to the package model it looks different.The bottom bolts look like they are not on the aligned at the bottom.

I am going to have a play and see what changes have been done.


I just checked and they are the same level. Must have been how OnShape is displaying the 3d object,

I really need to do that... ,make a drawings.

What you can do for now... is download the package model that I uploaded, as well as the .STP file for the x-carriage plastic. Put these together and you should have what you need to start a carriage design.


At my wits end. Printing great all day and then it stops feeding again. Took apart, cleaned what little dust it had and put back together. Still not feeding right. Not the filament this time. I'm out of ideas. Anyone else having this issue?

Changed out idler, bearings, drive gear. Printed for about 1 hour and wont feed again. Acts like not enough pressure is getting on the filament from the idler. I can shove through with my hand so no blockage. No idea what to try next.

Aug 22, 2016 - Modified Aug 22, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to krwynn


We are going to figure this out... so frustrating.

When it stops feeding, are you trying to push the filament through at the moment it stops, or are you waiting till it cools, heating it back up and then trying. The reason that I ask is that your failure mode = "It extrudes well for an hour or so then stops feeding" almost always means that the heat break is getting too warm, and it wont feed because the filament is meting into the heat break zone. I know you said your fan was good to go... but time and time again this failure mode was due to the heat break getting too warm. (Even a 30mm fan installed backwards). I know you would have checked that... but I had to mention that your failure mode exactly matches a cooling problem.

Do you still have clearance between your extruder housing and idler bearing holder? If they are touching, force will not be properly distributed to the drive gear. if you manually push on the idler bearing, does it then begin to extrude? The force exerted on the drive gear should closely match the force required to open the idler. If your springs are compromised in some way, and not enough force is being distributed, I can send you some new springs to try. Again, this does not seem to match an "It extruded well for an hour" problem.

Lastly - If you look at the drive gear teeth under a magnifying glass - are the teeth worn smooth anywhere or are they still sharp and able to engage the filament. I am not thinking this is the issue, or it would not extrude well for an hour - but worth a look.


The 2.01 versions seem to have done the trick. Well done sir with figuring out the issue. I'd declare this issue resolved. Thanks Wes!

Kevin, I have about 25+ hours with the new setup, working perfectly too.

Good stuff.


Awesome. Have been printing all day. Working flawless. I bumped up the speed to where it use to take 3 hours now only takes 1.5 hours. Love it!

Hi Wes,

We are going to figure this out... so frustrating.

Yup, as I love it otherwise.

When it stops feeding, are you trying to push the filament through at the moment it stops, or are you waiting till it cools, heating it back up and then trying. The reason that I ask is that your failure mode = "It extrudes well for an hour or so then stops feeding" almost always means that the heat break is getting too warm, and it wont feed because the filament is meting into the heat break zone. I know you said your fan was good to go... but time and time again this failure mode was due to the heat break getting too warm. (Even a 30mm fan installed backwards). I know you would have checked that... but I had to mention that your failure mode exactly matches a cooling problem.

The moment it stops or starts acting up I can push it through. Checked the fan last night too. All working good.

Do you still have clearance between your extruder housing and idler bearing holder? If they are touching, force will not be properly distributed to the drive gear. if you manually push on the idler bearing, does it then begin to extrude?

Yes. But its very small. When it stops if I push this in with my finger it will sometimes take off again. However, its not at the top of the idler I push, but rather the middle, around the bearing area.

The force exerted on the drive gear should closely match the force required to open the idler. If your springs are compromised in some way, and not enough force is being distributed, I can send you some new springs to try. Again, this does not seem to match an "It extruded well for an hour" problem.

I've tried both loosening and tightening the screws. Doesn't seem to make any difference either way.

Lastly - If you look at the drive gear teeth under a magnifying glass - are the teeth worn smooth anywhere or are they still sharp and able to engage the filament. I am not thinking this is the issue, or it would not extrude well for an hour - but worth a look.

Looked at that too. They looked fine but I changed to a new one anyway. If still didn't feed right.


I didn't change anything other than what I mentioned earlier. I took off about a 1m section of filament and started again. Have had 2 successful 3 hrs prints since. Nothing about the filament looked odd or suspicious.

Thanks Wes.

Are you 3D modeling bosses still working on a Chimera design?

krwynn - in reply to

Look 3 lines down.

I'm digging the design. But I have clone heat sinks. Do you have any other files than step I can use. I need to bump the diameter from 22.5 to 25.0 to fit these clones.

Don't use clones, I know, but I have like 20 of them so... a scad or something would be cool, just for the parts I need to change. Trying to out my clones in this setup just cracks the parts. I'll post my updates so they are avaliable for evwryone if you'll just "loan" me something other than stp files that I have to piece together.

Hi Troanado3D,

I love to see your work.
Haven't you mentioned you will look into a dual extruder ?
Not sure if you meant this for two v6 or the multiextrusion systems from E3D. I was hoping you look into the Chimera / Cyclops hotends.

Do you have any plans for this multiextrusion hotends from E3D ?

Is there any chance you might know how one could possibly trick a Makerbot Rep2 to think it is a 2x and do dual extrusion ala Chimera/Cyclops with a E3D + Volcano Hot,

Yes I am designing the chime era version now

That are good news :-)

Aug 17, 2016 - Modified Aug 17, 2016

Hi Wes,
I am building my second hot end holder (V2.0) this time for an original E3D V6 ( the last one was for a clone E3D) and I have noticed the same thing with both and that is a gap of about 2mm or so between the fan mount and the idler holder/ hot end clamp. This makes the installation of the single screw not effective. The hot end fits the clamp, as does the fan on the fan mount, so my calibration is O.K.,
I'm tempted to add a spacer but I thought I'd check with you first.... did I miss something? BTW I love how the V2.0 is working!
Regards Dennis

Any chance you can send me a photo of what you mean?

Request --- LulzBot TAZ 6 mount ( not neccesarily a carriage mount -- the TAZ has a quick change system that only requires the removal of one screw at the top of the X carriage ). TAZ 6 uses an electrical contact leveling at four corners, so I'll probably have to add another wire to accomodate and screw it into the e3dv6.

I guess I'd need dimensions and pictures....

Lulzbot is open source -- all the parts for the Olive ( TAZ 6 ) and previous printers are available for download ( including the source files ) at:


The particular part that carries the toolhead is the X-Carriage, and it has a guide attached to the bottom that allows the exchangable heads to V-slot and self-align into place.


The completed assembly looks like this:


Any way you can revise the file to get this adaption to be compatible with the ANET A8 i3 X-carriage(Zonestar, hesine m505, etc)? Also for those who have ABL where are we going to place the proximity sensor(12mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch NPN)

did you look at the prox sensor brackets people have made for he BL Touch mount

Aug 11, 2016 - Modified Aug 11, 2016

Hi All -

Use coupon code TORANADO and save $5 off each spool of filament PLA, PETG, TPU, & ABS when purchased with our MK7 drive gear and a genuine E3D V6 hotend. Our filament is made by Toner Plastics in the USA. They guarantee roundness, size, and purity. Offer ends August 31, 2016.

Happy Printing!
Brad www.UltiBots.com

I see you're offering the full plastic kit on ebay. Is it correctly stated on the sale page that it is printed in PLA? Is that not going to cause a problem, especially with the parts around the hotend?

In the last 3 weeks, my Toranado (completely printed in PLA) has been working 12-15 hours a day, without any heat or issue. And I'm still using V1.0.

All of my Toranado Extruders for my various printers have been printed with PLA, I have never had a problem with it.

The parts around the hotend are not affected by the hot-end heat, the plastic is far enough away from the hot nozzle to affect it. The cold-end is cooled by the 30mm fan, this keeps it well below the reflow temp of PLA.

As far as the NEMA-14 motor is concerned, that is why we inegrated PTFE heat isolation into the motor mounts.

I am 100% confident in PLA, have never had an issue, and the majority of Toranado users have printed theirs w/ PLA.

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to Toranado3D

I just received today the hardware and plastic kits. I have it mostly assembled already. One problem though is there was no drill template in the plastic parts or in the hardware. Was that something I should have requested specifically? I think I can print one out no problem, just wanted to check if it was overlooked.

Edit: one other question, how tight should the idler retainer be?

I am sorry - and you are right - If I am going to offer plastic kits to those wanting to build an extruder from the ground-up (especially those w/o printers yet) I need to include the drill template! It was an oversight and I'd be happy to send you one, just message me your address and I'll get it out in the morning.

I usually tighten the screws on the idler to be about flush with the bottom of the M3 nyloc nuts. However, I haven't done any force testing. Too much force and the idler retainer is too difficult to open, not enough and you won't have enough force on the filament. It should be hard to open the idler retainer, but not impossible... How is that for an exact science? :)

I have a 3/32 drill bit, but I don't have a 9/64, or the metric equivalents. I do, however, have a 5/32 drill bit. Since this hole is to permit access to one of the motor mount screws, I take it making this hole slightly larger won't be an issue?

Correct. So long as your Allen key can pass through

Aug 29, 2016 - Modified Aug 29, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to Toranado3D

I have finally finished assembly. Today I updated Marlin with the new measurements, and made my first prints with the Toranado. No problems at all. :)

Now I need to get either a capacitive sensor or a BLTouch so I can re-enable bed levelling. Well, maybe not need, I'm a few prints in using just a Z min endstop switch and no auto bed levelling, so maybe I can just skip that part. :)

Next up is printing out some replacement parts to get the dual-tone colour scheme going.

I did adjust my stepper drivers to 0.2V, but the motor was having too hard a time pushing the filament through the E3D, so I bumped it up a little. I checked the motor during the last two prints, didn't seem to be getting too hot, I could keep my hand in contact with it.

hi! just setted up all toranado and it dont extrude well, too slow extruder, i think its thing of mm per step but i cant find my mistake, any ideas?

I have 8825 drivers, vref set at .25 and had to set my extrusion to 949.5. Its a perfect 100mm.

Almost everyone who has built a Toranado extruder has had to dial it in. Now, to dial it in you will need to use this calculation and update your Step_PER_MM in your firmware. You will also need to make sure you enter the proper data into the calculation (i.e. you need to know if you are using 1/32 or 1/16 drivers, etc.).

Comments deleted.

Even with my vref dialed in to .24 (8825 Drivers) my NEMA was still getting extremely hot. I made this fan mount and hooked up a 40x40mm fan and it cooled it down 25c+. I can put my finger on the NEMA now and its just barely warm after long prints.


Fan Mount for NEMA 14
by krwynn

Will add this to the accessories. Thank you! If you can, post a pic to your make, i'd like to see it.

Done! Fits like a glove.

Went from printing like a champ to now I can't get a grip on the filament. Anyone else? Solutions? Something I can try?

Same trouble for me. Been trying to figure out if its the hotted or the grip on the filament. I have tried multiple filaments and a couple of hotends now with the same result. It takes a bit of force for me to stop the large gear with my hand so I don't think the motor is to blame. I have dialed in the drive current. I had no issues at all with extrusion with my old wades setup and NEMA 17. I really wanted swappable hotends for different nozzle sizes and I love the elegance of the toranado but can't seem to figure out why the filaments goes slow then fast when extruding... :(

Did you figure this out?

Aug 7, 2016 - Modified Aug 8, 2016
krwynn - in reply to Toranado3D

Not really. I has in the middle of a roll and noticed some really thick sections and then some really thin sections in it. Most of it was still in the 1.77 range though. When I first built the hot end assembly I made sure everything lined up perfectly. Fed some filament into it and could not pull it out with my hand. Today I could push or pull it through. Anyway, I switched out the roll and so far so good. I printed off another idler just in case it starts acting up again.

Aug 9, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to krwynn

I'm doubting it is the size of the filament...
If your filament won't push/pull manually you may have a clogged nozzle or large filament as you are thinking (but I have yet to see that as a failure mode).

Check four things.

1) Make sure there is no filament in the drive gear teeth - I usually take mine out and clean it with a toothbrush.
2) Make sure there is a gap between the idler and the extruder body.
3) Make sure that the gear rotates without getting bound up gear to gear. There should always be a slight slight gap between the gear teeth.
4) Make sure your 30mm fan is not full of dust or wearing out. Sometimes the bearings wear out and they don't push as much air (CFM too low). If the hotend won't stay cool and the melt zone is too far up the heat break, it won;t extrude well even if everything else is good to go.

It just happened again. I think I have it narrowed down to the PFTE tubing. It either stopped feeding at the top of the extruder or the top of the E3D. Not sure which. The drive gear almost ground through the filament either trying to push or pull. Oddly enough it was in the middle of another roll and make of filament. Not noticing any glaring size difference in the filament this time though. Hot end isn't plugged as I can get it up to temp and shove it right through. Stumped.

It was the filament. Roll is garbage from the center of the roll on. Varies from 1.50 to 1.82. Chalking it up to a bad roll since I've probably been through at least a dozen rolls of this same filament. Its been fine since I started a new roll.

As for the rest:
1) Make sure there is no filament in the drive gear teeth - I usually take mine out and clean it with a toothbrush.

Clean as a whistle. 1st thing I always check

2) Make sure there is a gap between the idler and the extruder body.

Have used the second version you uploaded from the beginning. Clearance was and is fine.

3) Make sure that the gear rotates without getting bound up gear to gear. There should always be a slight slight gap between the gear teeth.

Set perfectly. Hasn't changed

4) Make sure your 30mm fan is not full of dust or wearing out. Sometimes the bearings wear out and they don't push as much air (CFM too low). If the hotend won't stay cool and the melt zone is too far up the heat break, it won;t extrude well even if everything else is good to go.

No dust. Only had been in operation less than 1 day before I had issues.


Aug 17, 2016 - Modified Aug 17, 2016
flyingnut40 - in reply to krwynn

I had the same issue with an extreme variation in filament that would not pass the tube. I pulled 20' off the roll and ran my hand down it and WOW, the variation was disgusting. This roll was from Folger Tech (black PLA) and I got similar results from some blue Chinese stuff as well..... lesson learned I guess..... unless there is a certified (guaranteed) quality filament that you are willing to buy there ARE going to be bad batches from just about any source. I'm now thinking I may have had some beginners luck in that my first 4-5 rolls were problem free..... I have since ordered a filament width monitor based on the ATTiny 85 to help with any quality issues around undersized sections but the fatter parts still get stuck..... either way the on screen readouts of the size will be easier to monitor in real time.

i have a minor issue. Filament retraction is a bit to much. does anyone have a suggested setting? the gears will retract the filament so much and not be able to push the filament through the throat because it becomes deformed.

I use 1.0mm retraction.

I'm set at 2mm and haven't had any issues.

Printing! Working flawless so far. Has a rattle somewhere driving me mad, Anyone else have that? Not the linear bearings, I use sleeves.

I have the gear rattle too. I have an enclosure so I can drown it out. :)

I didn't have gear rattle. Never actually said where it was as I didn't know. However I did find it. Was the x carriage. I had forgotten to finish tightening up.

im having gear rattle as well. i was about to ask the same thing ha

Gear rattle is caused by the metal-metal on the gears, when there is sometimes just a bit too much gap between the gears. You will hear it "Click" when the gears touch. Try to ever so slightly tighten the gear-gear spacing, but not too much!

Aug 4, 2016 - Modified Aug 4, 2016

Anyone using the BL Touch with Repetier-Host? I upgraded to Marlin 1.1.0 RC6 and everything compiled great. However, I can home X and Y fine. But if I try to raise or lower Z by more than .1mm manually it acts likes it being held back by something in Marlin. Works fine in Pronterface but I hate using that. Any clues to what might be going on? If I try to move up or down 1 to 10mm the probe acts like its trying to home but no movement at all. Motors sound like they have hit a restriction which isn't the case. Like I said, up and down is fine in Pronterface. Thanks


Had to change the following:
Changed the following and I'm good.

//#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25}
//#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,3000,100,10000}

define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22}

define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,5,1000}





So, you have solved this issue, correct?

Yes sir. Works fine. Just needed to slow it down a bit.

FYI, Just tried Marlin 1.1.0 RC7 that has a new BL Touch section and still the same results. Everything else is working great.

I am in the process of printing and assembling the Toranado, and it appears the 5mm shaft collar model is not available. Was this removed due to an issue with using a printed one vs a metal one?

Aug 3, 2016 - Modified Aug 3, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to gsimpson2g

Yikes! I need to add info on that. No, it is the same as it was in the legacy versions. You can get the shaft collar .STL on the Legacy Site Here. I will update this today, thanks for noticing this.

Thanks! I am amazed at how easy the parts are to print, this extruder is extremely well designed.

Hey Wes and BC, great work, looks incredible.
I made one but now i`ve some trouble to configure the extruder in the right way.
Can somebody send me his slic3r configuration or the required repetier configs f.e. :

  • correct ratio of extruded filament (???set the extrusion multiplier on 9, to get enough extruded Filament ;) ???)
  • travel- and working-speed
    all materials are the required one.
    Best Regards, Chris

Did you set your Steps_PER_MM properly on your extruder per the instructions?

What drivers are you using?


Yes now it works thanks.
I haven´t found the setting where to set it up befor but now its all ok.

Jul 30, 2016 - Modified Jul 30, 2016

Hi , i live in Portugal and i would love to get all the metal parts to make this extruder.
Do you have a link where i can get everything in a single package? Because the shipping of everything i need to order brings the extruder cost to 180$.
Please let me know if there is a single kit to order.

Also i at what print speed can reach?

Best Regards, Pedro

I am going to offer those in August.

That will help a lot thanks.

gvalente take a look at LED strips. Each strip is 10x50mm and it looks like it could fit for both versions. Yours is a nicer option to what I threw together that the BLTouch mount. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662074

LED Light Strip Mount for Toranado v2.0

If you want an LED light on this extruder, I would suggest not mounting it on the removeable hot end assembly ... and locating it where it will not block your view of the nozzle. Personally, I have found it more practical to light the entire heat bed area, instead of just a spot of light under the extruder .. most cameras do not get along well with just a bright spot of light like that. Have a look at the pair of light bars I put on my PRUSA i3 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1398522 very inexpensive leds strip lights, VERY bright ... and with a sheet of paper, your print bed can also serve as a nice photo studio for your printed masterpieces!

LED Light Bars for 3D Printer

It looks like it would work to me. It all depends on how far down the LEDs go.

That is very low for a BLTouch adaptor. It needs to sit higher compared to the nozzle.

This is not for the bltouch itself. It's for leds.

Looks good. I'll be watching for it. I second the recommendation about making it BLTouch compatible.

Thank you, working on it :)

Very nice.
I like the renderings.

Have you thought of merging the fan cover and your design as one.
And please don't forget the BLTouch version. ;-)

Thank you :)

I thought about merging the fan cover but I think I'll keep it like this.
And yes, the BLTouch version will be available :)

I'm nat able to get the idler to put enough pressure on the filament to get good filament movement without slipping. I've printed the new idler part and ordered the drive gear that you link to. Any ideas about something I might be missing?

Check carefully... this is exactly why I created the new idler. You should be able to see a space between the extruder base and the idler. If you do not see this space... and it bottoms out, this is your problem. Be sure you press the hotend sub assembly in tightly as you tighten the screw. to hold it in place. Again, if there is no gap between the extruder and the idler... it won't work to put tension on the bearing.

Also... if there is a gap... it is always wise to remove the drive gear occasionally and clean it with a hard toothbrush or light wire brush. Especially is you have had a nozzle clog, etc, that caused the drive gear to slip on the filament. Check the drive gear closely and see if there is any filament packed into it.

Update: I think I've got it working OK now. I trimmed a bit off the upper section of the idler and also moved the pivot hole on the idler holder about .5mm towards the filament drive gear. My test prints seem to be working now.

That certainly seems to be what is happening. I'm tweaking some parts to see if I can address it.

Comments deleted.

Any news about the Dual Toranado with the Chimera? :) You bought the original E3d Chimera or the chinese version with the pneumatic coupling? I want to buy it but don't know which one to buy, with or without pneumatic coupling.

Thank you.

I have it framed into 3D space - and have been preventedd from working on it due to my summer schedule. I bought the one with the pneumatic coupling... trying to make it work with both though.

So if I buy the same as you - with the pnematic coupling - it will work with your design..

Yes sir.

Let's see a sneak peak of the dual extruder!

Jul 28, 2016 - Modified Jul 28, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to alanacial

This pretty much sums up the Dual development at this point. ;) The design will be released on the same day the THING is up.

LOL I can't even imagine having to answer that question time after time after time.

Thank you!

Hello, Do you know if a mount exists that would allow me to mount this on my c-bot/D-bot.

probably, not. though it wouldnt be too hard to design and use with some countersunk M3's

I thought about using a toranado for my triple C-bot but went with a titan instead. I hvae 2 Toranados on my i3's

Hello! Here is an idea I have been pondering for a while. How about embedding a photo interrupter in the path the filament in the upper end of the extruderbase. I'm thinking that something like an HY301-19 or HY301-21 or HY860D might fit the bill. Adding this component could be use as a end of filament detector. I think it would be a great addition to this already amazing extruder.

Good idea!

Would it be possible to get some dimensions of your design so I can make an educated guess at which of those photo interrupter I should get?

Hi, wanted to rework the BLTouch mount for a similar touch probe of my own design but the step files are not solids so I can only edit one surface at a time.
Can you re post the step files as solids and not collections of surfaces?
Really looking forward to trying this awesome design.


I am gogin to try and figure out why it is coming in as sheets... as soon as I do I will upload the new CAD.

Hi, Any progress on this?

Comments deleted.

Excuse me for my question , but do i need to print some parts with ABS or all in PLA or PetG ?

Thank you.

Wes and I have tried PLA and PETG .. for all the parts, either should work well. Neither of us do much printing with ABS (shrinks a lot and bed adhesion is more difficult IMO), but it should work also for any of the parts. Print quality with PLA will be very good .. PETG less so .. but PETG is a very good material, tough, stiff and high temp like ABS.

Thank you.

I have to say that I'm glad I waited for v2.0. The design of the extruder is extraordinary. Everything fit like a glove. There were 3 or 4 times during the construction I thought; this is not going to work. I was wrong. I really cleaned up very little before I started the build. I can't say enough about the design and how well everything fits together. I can't wait to see how it prints. Well done Wes and Cooter. Well done.

Thank you.

It is cool. I want to use it in my UM2 printer. Some parts that I have to redesign.

Just got my kit today. Thanks! I'll post a Make when I finish printing the parts.

I have two question, 1. the ptfe tubing once you have that in place you cut the extra ? 2. is there any sugestion on how to run the cables from the e3d to the quick connect or any guides ?

Do i need the PTFE tubing in there ? my filament will not go in,

Jul 26, 2016 - Modified Jul 26, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to fvargasfrank

The PTFE tubing in the extruder housing will allow it to fit. You didn't use too long of a screw on your decoration cover by the filament tube did you? This might compromise the tube and make filament get stuck.

Stupid question maybe. But here it goes. Should i just cut of the wires on my nema17 extruder (sunhokey prusa i3) and solder the connections on my nema14 or is there another connection entirely on the ramps?

That'd certainly work, just be sure you connect the wires like This. Also read the technical data on the details page about setting your stepper reference voltage.

Jul 14, 2016 - Modified Jul 14, 2016

Can you please make a version of 2.0-decorationcover-LH.stl for m3 nut?

I noticed on my hotend assy that if I remove the 40 millimeter mounting screw I have no clearance between The Idler and the Extrusion base but when I put the screw in place and snug up I have at least 2 to 3 millimeters of space with the filament inserted. Ive made three assy and theyre all the same. Im gonna hold off on making the new version.

Jul 13, 2016 - Modified Jul 13, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Tinroof866

Tin roof, short-lurker, thanks for the feedback. The new .stl was only a precaution and it only helps, but continue to keep an eye on this if you can. Just take a peek from time to time to see if the idler is properly in place. Thank you!

It might be the case where if you were checking the gap between the idler and base without the 40mm screw that the removable assembly shifted out. This happened to me as I forgot to replace the screw and it shifted out as I locked the idler and tried to prime filament and it didn't move.

Prior to the updated idler part I just ran the part across a metal file which worked just fine.

Where did you get your stepper motor from? I have been looking all over and everything is really expensive, out of stock, or with overpriced shipping.

Jul 12, 2016 - Modified Jul 12, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Bsbarbaro

Obviously, I got mine from the link I spec'd below. If the shipping in prohibitive (and larger items shipped from the USA usually are), you will have to find a local stepper motor supplier.

That was the one I found, but it is out of stock now :(

I have purchased one of These but have yet to test it. However, several makers have used it successfully., It is actually lighter than the one I spec'd and has a slightly higher holding torque. Feel free to give it a try and post your findings.

That's the motor i'm using. It seems to work fine.

Comments deleted.

Tell me please, can be replaced by something 3x M3 PTFE Washer?
I can't find them
May be it can be printed from PET?

Maybe also try making your own from proper OD and ID PTFE tubing... might be worth a shot.

The PTFE washers are used for heat isolation between the NEMA 14 and plastic. You are free to try other methods... But notice that the slots in the Extruder base are also designed for use w the PTFE tubing.

What is the best way to get an X-carriage mount for a specific printer? I have the STL file for my printer's X-carriage, but am not sure how to make it compatible with the Toranado.

Also, my printer (gMax 1.5 XT+) has a board on the side that connect an Ethernet cable to in order to connect the hot end wiring. Is there a good place on the Toranado to be able to add that as well or should I simply mod the wiring to use standard wires instead?

Jul 11, 2016 - Modified Jul 11, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to davec3275

Well, I certainly cannot create mounts for every printer on the market. What kind of printer do you have? gMax 1.5 XT?

I don't expect you to be able to do that. I was just asking about how to go about it? While I have been using 3D printers for several months now, I am still very new to the 3D design aspect of it.

Yes, the gMax 1.5 XT+.

He has STP CAD files zipped up in the Things Files section.
I used it to figure out the mount pattern and distances from nozzle tip.

The hole patterns looks to be 23mm square, and the nozzle is about 65mm down from the bottom hole, and about 58mm from the back of the the extruder.

Have to figure out why my .STP files are importing as surfaces and why the .STP translators can't close the volume. Did you have that issue as well?

Yes. Surfaces only when importing into Onshape for me. Tried using Rhino (over my head--forgot how to use it) and export in various format, all resulted in surfaces. Currently, only need the mounting pattern and nozzle offsets for my ideas.

Well, I need to fix that - but it will work in the meantime. First things first - I need the Right-hand files released, the dual-design completed, then clean up these things.


wow answered some one else's question that was posted after mine but not mine.....and I have my EBay order of the other parts needed in my EBay shopping cart awaiting payday..........

Sorry I missed your comment. I replied below.

Anything change with 2.0-30mmvent-LH-wpad.stl besides the side of the pad? Thanks

Nope, just reduced size of print pad.

Thought so, just wanted to make sure. Thanks.

hello thanks for putting this up for downloading... I have a question .. will the extruder still work and be structurally sound if I print all the parts at 1.5mm layers with 40% infill ?..that way I can print all the parts at once in a single setting..

Jul 11, 2016 - Modified Jul 11, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to cward91279

What do you mean printing the parts at 1.5 mm layers?

There is no disagvantage to printing all of the parts at higher infill (other than total weight of the plastic).

I want really good detail in the print... So thinner layers..

I think you mean 0.15 not 1.5. That makes sense now

I would think that would work OK but it might be overkill on some of the parts. The best way to find out is to give it a try. FWIW, I printed mine as specified here.

Jul 11, 2016 - Modified Jul 11, 2016
cward91279 - in reply to mperdue

Thank you for the input I'll let you know how it turns out... I will be printing with clear transparent pla ...

Very clever design and idea, particularly like the ability to swap the hot end over and the removal method.

One question, how much does the whole assembly weigh approximately?

I need to assemble one and weigh it. I will do so shortly.

Comments deleted.

I am just curious, left handed version seems to be the popular setup for reasons I don't understand (probably due to wade's extruder design) but what made you want to make a right handed version?

If using right handed version, wouldn't the gear be mirrored? how do you prevent the extruder motor from going the opposite direction? from firmware or reverse the wiring pins for the motor to RAMPS 1.4?


There is a Good Article on Reprap.org about stepper wiring. Look at the bottom of the article about changing the Extruder direction.

The right/left version is for preference, but several MAKERS have also expressed interest in mounting two of them for a dual setup.

doest it support a print with filaflex?

I have never used that kind of filament, however I have left room for Bowden couplings inside the Extruder. Simply extend the PTFE as close to the drive gear as possible from the cold end.

how well does this hold up with PLA filament? Is the heat going to cause deforming?

Jul 7, 2016 - Modified Jul 7, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to coldakin

All of my Toranado extruders are printed w PLA. Look @ the build instructions and note how we are using PTFE on the motor mounts for heat isolation,

Jul 6, 2016 - Modified Jul 6, 2016

I decided to order a new E3D V6 extruder and BLTouch sensor. I figure I'll make it all new. :-)

can i use my nema 17 of my mk8 ?

No. We purposely stick with the NEMA-14 due to the substantial weight savings, and you MUST use an MK7 drive gear as specified in the BOM (With an 11.17 effective diameter).


Ok thank you, i finish ordering everything, execpt for 5mm Shaft Collar someone said i can use the one on my mk8 folgertech prusa

Very excited about this setup you got here. Just about finished printing the parts. Thanks for your devotion and knowledge.

Thank you

Are there many diferences between the V1.0/V1.1 and V2.0 hardware?

If you bought a v1.0 or a v1.1, in order to upgrade it all you will need is 1x MR685zz bearing and a new fastener kit. Please see the BOM at the bottom of the details page.


V2.0 Printing - Timelapse video

Here printing more copies of itself, lol!! using 0.3mm nozzle at 0.15mm layer height, using Chinese $10 clone E3D V6 hotend, in challenging PETG material .. a very high quality result.

How do you like the v6 clones? I've been somewhat leery of trying them.

I struggled with one of the clones (constantly jamming) before shelling out the dough for the real deal. I was skeptical of the price of the true E3D model, but it has been running without issue since I bought it.

First problem I ran into with the clone was the heatsink section had a stop that didn't allow the PTFE tubing to seat in the heatbreak. that was fixed in a couple seconds with a drill to bore out the lip.

The second issue was the included heatbreak. The PTFE tube goes too far into the heatbreak. This causes jamming since the transition zone is too short. Ordering a different heatbreak might solve this issue (see link), but at this point I was throwing good money after bad, so I ordered the E3D model.


That has always been my fear. I've only bought genuine E3D hardware so far. I'll probably continue doing that despite the difference in price.

Do you need the E3D v6 to be direct or bowden?

I updated the Bill of Material to clarify.

It is designed to accept either.

I am actually using This one as it has a very nice coupling for the PTFE tubing.

Is that a good quality copy? I could get a few with different nozzles if it was.

It has a high-quality coupling at the top of it, and my print quality has been really good, but I've only ordered one of them so I am not sure if they consistently come in at a good quality

just ordered enough to make 2 !! the only missing stuff is the 5mm shaft collar... do you have the dimension of it ? i'm looking to make it myself...

Anyway : nice design, nice presentation, nice developpement (unless some screw in inches... but i'm french it should come from me ^^)

cheers !!


Jul 5, 2016 - Modified Jul 6, 2016
goldpnnr - in reply to Bryceletarmo

What I found for a collar was a drill stop, it is basically a collar for a drill bit. Just find the right size OD and ream the ID to fit. Mine was a little thicker, but still works on a V 1.1. You can pick up at most hardware stores or big box home centers.

Is the only thing missing from the hardware kit the Mk7 driver gear, (2) 625zz bearing, and (1) 685zz bearing?

I'm sorry about the confusion, I still need to post the updated BOM.

When I do, you will see you still need the following hardware:

1x NEMA 14 motor
1x E3Dv6 Hotend
2x 625zz bearing
1x 685zz bearing
1x Mk7 drive gear
1x 30mm fan
1x 40mm fan
1x 5mm shaft collar

I will have the links up soon - as you must use the proper drive gear.

so beside the kit i order i will need these parts as well ? i have an mk 8 extruder can i use any of those parts ?

Jul 4, 2016 - Modified Jul 4, 2016
TimJC - in reply to Toranado3D

I totally missed the 5mm shaft collar. Think an old, unused, Mk8 drive gear would work in its place?

I do :) - Posting the BOM now.

Hi ,can i use this extruder for mendel 2 with 3mm filament? I have e3d v6 3mm

Jul 4, 2016 - Modified Jul 4, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Mendel_2

I don't see any reason why you can't try it - So long as you can find a drive gear setup that works (it would have to CLOSELY match the effective diameter of the current setup), however this would be using the Toranado in a manner it was not intended for with the design.

Let me know what you decide to try.

Also, you'd need to ensure you found and used a proper sized PTFE tube in the Extruder body, or decided not to use one

Jul 4, 2016 - Modified Jul 4, 2016

Woah. The latest set of parts on eBay are moving. Just ordered with 9 sets left. My parts are printed and ready for the hardware. Looking forward to trying it out. How's the Volcano version coming along?

Haven't looked at it yet, but I have a volc hot nozzle, and I'm taking a good hard look at extending the 40mm fan down.

The problem is, with this setup, the 40 mm fan in not exactly easy to swap out.

So, to make it work with my setup, a MAKER currently has to decide if they want volcano or not. This is not ideal, IMO

I'm thinking the answer might be a clip on piece to extend the fan down.... But I'm not sure how that would work either.

I know it is a need, and I'm looking into it

Magnets! Use magnets to attach to fan and pop in an extension when needed?

I'm thinking that the better option would be to design the size of the Toranado around the length of the E3D Volcano and make the removable section with different inserts for the different hot end types.

Can't wait to get all necessary parts, already ordered both kits! ^_^

Hey guys just have to say awesome work and am looking forward to printing this out ... so how do we order hardware kits?

Try_tan - in reply to

Thanks have just ordered parts ;)

Have you considered offering a package of just hot end swappable parts, maybe a kit of 2 or 3 full hot ends so its worth both your time shipping and people buying.

Yes, I have.

Hi Wes, I meant to order an extra fastener set...don't panic lol. I know the last time I jumped the gun a bit. Thanks

No worries. Will ship on the 5th. Thank you!

Question, how are you guys printing this, i piece at a time or multiple parts at the same time?

V2.0 now printing PETG, 0.3mm nozzle, 0.15 layer height .. streaming video:

Printing 2 sets of pluggable hotend parts (black parts ... already printed red components)

Absolutely beautiful design. The two things i thought needed possibly some improvement and you nailed it. I took your ver1.1 and made a plug as well but not as nice as your. I never got to finish ver 1.1 but I was wondering if there was an easier way to change the nozzle and then theres ver 2.0 , presto chango ... change the whole hotend :) Genius, just Genius..I love the fact you took the time and made sure each part was printable with no support. You need to win an award for this design and/or atleast a recognition for this design. I vote that this be featured by Thingiverse.
Im printing the parts as I type. Im hoping to have it installed by the 5th.

Question though...why the blind rivet washers? I thought maybe the because they're thicker, tighter I.D or bigger O.D than a standard m3 washer.

Awesome job Wes and Big Cooter. Give yourselves a big pat on the back

Jul 3, 2016 - Modified Jul 3, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Tinroof866

Big Cooter (Jeff) suggested the Bind Rivet washers a month or two ago. His idea was to increase the outer diameter to try and match the PTFE as best we could, because when the less rigid PTFE washers had a larger OD, they wanted to deform and wander into the mounting slot. Another benefit was the thickness, moving the motor just that much further from the plastic mounting surface.

So far I'm pleased w the results.

That has been a consistent theme on this design. Big Cooter has made some awesome suggestions... And I have worked (and at times struggled) to implement them.

Thank you for your kind words!


The rivet washers were my suggestion, as you already noticed, these washers are thick, fit close to screw, and are larger in diameter (covers teflon washer, even when that washer is flattened from pressure on it). Rivet washers are readily available

Wes, damn its one sexy design. Good job.
St. George

Thank you. Some say designs tend to take the characteristics of the designer.... But I couldn't say that in an open comments section as it would come across way too self serving....

Oh, wait.... Nvm.

So... I never intended to become a technical writer....

MY GOODNESS these build instructions were tough to get done!

Community... enjoy. BTW - Kit links coming soon (hopefully tomorrow).

The instructions look good. Interestingly, you refer to the male connectors as the ones with the pins, as I do. However, the packages that I purchased at the hobby shop call those the female connector. I assume that is because the case of that connector goes around the one with the sockets. It's the first time I remember seeing male pins in the email connector. Weird.

Once, my then 12-year old daughter asked me about my job, which happened to be electrical connection system design.

She said, "Dad, why did you call the one connector a male and the other a female?"

I deferred the answer to her mother.

Good call.

I have an ultimaker variant and was looking at the pg35l direct drive extruder and this. I lIke this design better because it's modular. Is there a mount available for ultimaker?

I don't think so, as you can see what mounts are available. I am going to make a downloadable package model so that designers can adapt this extruder to their machines / mount designs.

Just a conversation starter:

Any ideas on a way to identify a hot end? What is most likely to happen for my use would be multiple nozzle sizes. While having a spare hot end of the same size handy to swap in the case of a plugged nozzle its something to consider, the lure of this version to me is being able to swap nozzle sizes and slicer settings and completely changing the quality/style of a print in just a few seconds.

My nozzles are barely readable after a few prints to determine what size they are, so I thought to myself.. is there anywhere I could make an identifying mark on the new removable hot end carriage to determine the nozzle size more easily. Maybe color?

Anyone else got some ideas?

Jul 3, 2016 - Modified Jul 3, 2016
BigCooter - in reply to alanacial

was thinking the same thing ... I didn't want to go with multi colors due to aesthetics and difficulty switching material for printing them all ... so I am leaning towards putting small numbers on the hotend fan grill .. maybe a little tab extending below, which has text on it and is large enough to see on my OctoPi camera. Numbered like most nozzles ... 25, 30, 35, 40 ...etc...

I plan to use color coded assemblies.

Yes, print the fan covers in various colors?

Video stream .. 1st print with my V2.0 Toranado Extruder ... flow rate was too high early in print, but it's looking good now (my fault for not adjusting it at startup). NEMA 14 is having no trouble pushing PLA through 0.3mm nozzle...printing 0.15mm layer height. FYI - this is a low cost Chinese V6 clone hotend, $10 with fan, seems to work decent..

Made a wiring mistake during build, shorted hotend fan ... smoked some wires on startup ... this is when I appreciated the pluggable hotend, unplugged it, eliminated short .. only took 5 mins to fix and I didn't have to tear half my machine apart to get at the issue.

reprinting now ... at streaming link above ... had a wiring harness resistance issue yesterday that kept crashing the machine 1/2 way through the print .. it was not an issue with this fine new extruder .. what it did print was FANTASTIC quality.

Comments deleted.

Are the electrical connectors that you are using called out anywhere? I want to see if one of the local supply houses have any.

uses JST RCY connectors, these are widely used in R/C stuff ... Last I knew, I think Wes was going to include these connectors in the parts kits? He is buying and sourcing parts in bulk, to kit these up at a price that makes it worth not shopping all the parts yourself ... think he is planning on getting kits on ebay in a matter of days. Now, if you are upgrading your V1.1 Toranado, and only need a few parts like the JST RCY connectors ... try Amazon, Hobbyking.com .. or Bangood.com (if you want to wait 4wks for shipping) .. JST RCY is sold as pre-crimped leads (no crimping required, I solder the wires) and also as individual terminals and housings (you crimp, but need a GOOD crimping tool .. or solder the terminals to wire). Remember, bad crimps can fail, resulting in thermal events (ie fire), make your connections reliable!!!

Got the connectors at the local hobby shop so I plan to cobble one together to play with. I'm looking forward to seeing how it works.

These will indeed be in the fastener kits.

Thanks. I have every intention of buying a couple of kits as soon as they are available but I want to play around with the one I've got printed in the meantime. If they are R/C connectors the local hobby shop will almost certainly have them.

i have a question...
can I use the old 1.0 Toranado acrylic gear on the 2.0?

Jul 2, 2016 - Modified Jul 2, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Electro85

Absolutely. There will be a spacer that you will need to print and use. You will see it in the build instructions that I post later today.

I'm just about done printing parts. Looking forward to seeing the assembly instructions. I hope you have a sufficient supply of kits available for the launch of the new version.

Looking forward to seeing your updated "Make"

thank you!

It will be the same as what you see in the 1.1 build instructions...

Look at item #14a in This File

Jul 2, 2016 - Modified Jul 2, 2016

Assembled V2.0 today: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:233739
..running some printing test tormorrow!

Looking forward to quick plugging in multiple hotends with different nozzle sizes, and being able to swap them out easily when one clogs .. this is going to be so much better! Now I have to build 3-4 hotend pluggable assemblies.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.02

Looks really good BC!

An incredibly well thought out design, love it!

Jul 1, 2016 - Modified Jul 1, 2016

Have there been any mounts made yet for the MakerFarm i3v?

And what considerations should someone make to choose whether to use the left or right hand version?

Comments deleted.

I have yet to see one. Someone from the community could always adopt this to it.

Jul 31, 2016 - Modified Jul 31, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to Toranado3D

I'm currently printing out cut pieces from the Toranado and from this x-carriage: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:667150

It looks like the holes might line up. Have to wait for the small mount piece from the carriage to finish printing so I can check.

Also, would an inductive sensor fit in the BLTouch hole? And again, is there any advantage to choosing the Left or Right-hand version over the other?

Makerfarm i3v to modular mounting bracket

LH and RH versions are preference only.

If you look on the details page, you will see THINGS for inductive sensor adapters for the BL touch mount.

timelaspse printing red color V2.0 parts:

timelaspse printing black V2.0 parts:

assembling and testing this weekend!

Jun 30, 2016 - Modified Jun 30, 2016

For those interested in using the BL Touch Bed Leveling Sensor I have posted the .STLs for mounting it on the opposite side of the gear.

Thanks for that! Will try it out as soon as I get it all printed out and get the gears ordered.

Do you have the complete Toranado build stl file? I'm re-designing my printer and would like to calculate the print area limits with the toranado in the 3D assembly.

Could you maybe provide a step file?
A simplified version of an assembly would be enough.
I am designing an 3D printer and would like to check in CAD if the Head fits well.
FreeCAD is unable to handle stl files properly for assembly though and generating steps from stls through surface reconstruction results in bloated files slowing down the CAD to nearly unusable state.

I have just uploaded The Package Models in .STP Format for both the LH and RH versions.

Thank you so much! It's perfect!

This is a really good idea - a package model. Will try to remember to do so soon.

Jul 1, 2016 - Modified Jul 1, 2016
Zerginator - in reply to Toranado3D

Thats great. I used your v.1.1 through reconstruction from the stls to design the printer more or less around your head, utilising the printbed fully, but not making the printer to big. So a package model would be really helpful.

I don;t have one yet. Will get to it eventually. ;)

That would be great :)

I don't have an issue with the hex screw not being accessible. BLTouch says it is not for user adjustment.
I think it more important to have the ability to shim the BLTouch with a thin washer or two to fine tune its position without using a dremel tool on it.

OK, I will probably make a mount for both sides.

Question, what do you mean - leave some clearance when compared to the 8.3mm measurement that BL Touch gives in their instructions?


The one I made worked fine and was close to 8.3mm as is, but if it were 1/2 mm off I would have the option to shim it if necessary. Not an issue on mine but some had to grind the pads and if it were a tad lower you could place it exactly where you want with shim washers.

Thanks .... will look for that later today ;-)

Jun 30, 2016 - Modified Jun 30, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to flyingnut40

For those of you who use the BL touch, how important is it to have access to that hex nut on the top? If I put the BL touch on the right side of the extruder, it works fine. But if I put the BL touch on the left side of the extruder under the gear, it would work well in a duel set up, but you would not have access to that hex nut. If I leave it on the right side, it limits how close you can put the two Toronado's together

I'd like to have the center adjustment accessible - there's no such thing as not user adjustable...

I don't have an issue with the hex screw not being accessible. BLTouch says it is not for user adjustment.
I think it more important to have the ability to shim the BLTouch with a thin washer or two to fine tune its position without using a dremel tool on the mounting tabs.

Add Both as options. With that said I don't think we will need to get to it often at all. So far I've not needed to use it yet

I will add a BL touch mount to both sides of the lower cover. Users can choose the configuration they'd like.

Just D/L the 2.0 files.... did I miss the housing with BLTouch mounts?

I am adding the mounts to the lower cover today and will upload the STL

I was about to ask the same thing. :-)

Good timing. I'm currently redesigning and rebuilding my 3D printer to incorporate things I learned on the first one. This extruder will be the one I use. I really like the ability to remove the hot end for maintenance and easy swapping. Printing the parts now.

Jun 30, 2016 - Modified Jun 30, 2016

Today: real time printing ... printing colored parts for new V2.0 version of Toranado extruder. Printing in red PLA, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer, 21% infill. Printing extra removable hotend components, to build one spare hotend assembly.

Toranado timelapse video printing a iPhone bumper case, with >27mm bridging of cutouts...

BC, very cool time lapse. Looks like you have your PET-G printing dialed in.


Jun 30, 2016 - Modified Jun 30, 2016

Hi Wes

This looks really good. I'm busy rebuilding my printer with 20x20 and 20x40 v-slot extrusions so can't build this new version just yet but will asap. Also building a BigBox Dual for work so will maybe print the v2.0 parts on it. Congratz with a stunning improvement yet again.


PS. Now need the Dual Toranado (adapted) for the BigBox. Let me know if you need any specific BigBox Hybrid Dual info (E3D already published it here on Thingiverse).Take a good look at how they solved the virtical calibration adjustment of the dual hotends, two O-rings and 4 grub screws, Ingenious.

E3D's BigBox 3D Printer

Just realized something, with the left and right-hand versions you are already very close to a dual version. Me thinks that was on purpose :)

Yes, dual please :)

Me again, love to hear my own voice :)
The one thing I would like to see added is a slightly bigger landing on the top of the Extruder Base where the filament enters. Must be big enough for a 8mm hole 6mm deep to fit one of E3D's Embedded Bowden Couplings. This will help a lot with filament management.

what is the hardware difference between V1 and V2? aside from the connector plug

The fastener kits are totally different.

The only hardware difference between the two is 1 bearing (the v2.0 uses 1 smaller bearing at the motor end)

Any reason why for the bearing change? I've been looking at the parts and it seems it's possible to reuse the v1.1 bearing and bearing holder if we add two washers or print out a spacer to fill the gap.

Jun 30, 2016 - Modified Jun 30, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to short_lurker

The bearing is on the motor end, not the gear end. Because the bearing holder had a thin wall thickness by the motor, the heat from the motor can cause the nubs contacting the bearing to soften over time, making the bearing a tad loose. I solved this by going with a 5mm bearing with an OD of 11 instead of 16. This keeps the bearing nice and tight and the gearset true to position.

Ah yes I see it now. While on the subject of motor heat, something I just wondered while looking at the exhaust vent of the E3D, could that air be directed to blow past the motor. I'm sure you considered this too while working on this revision.

:) - Yes it was discussed (I think Big Cooter mentioned trying it at least ten times). It's just not feasible in the package constraints... however, the smaller bearing solves the issue - and the PTFE heat isolation works great on the motor mount side.

i have a ton of parts from building 2 printers from scratch, looks like i'll be buying the kits again for the upgrade, having trouble with the idler screws staying tight and causing extruding issues, so its a good excuse to upgrade.

lol I'm gonna have sooo many extra parts.

So sorry! I'll stop improving

Don't do that. I can always make something else with what I haven't used. Extra parts are never a bad thing in my book.

Did you see the new hotend removal vid? I'm hoping the community will find its worth it.

Jun 29, 2016 - Modified Jun 29, 2016

So, seriously, why hasn't this wonderful extruder been featured yet??! Come on Thingiverse! I have been here for many years now and have never seen such a great following combine with 2 most excellent devs. Even if it isn't, I want you guys to know that I am very grateful for all your hard work, and also a shout out the this awesome community for making this go so far!

Damrin, thank you for the kind comments. The community has been kind, and we are hopeful that the weekend release of the new version will be well accepted. This is a n excellent solution for solving the 30mm/40mm airflow - and also it makes servicing the extruder wonderfully simple.

Jun 29, 2016 - Modified Jun 29, 2016

if you needed something to do for the next 8 hours ... streaming video link below, printing V1.2 test parts today... (Wes is getting close to release day!). Printing here with PETG at 40mm/s, 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, 21% infill. Video is from OctoPi running on Raspberry PI 2 with RPi camera, with bigcooter electronics enclosure (see my designs here).

(ignore the taped up disabled BL Touch and externally wired fan ... have some work to do there, LOL)

Looking good man! I just had a peek its still printing away!

parts printed out perfectly, one of best PETG prints I've done (sticky stuff, needs careful adjusting of flow rate once printing)

this extruder accepts 1mm nozzle? for big insane printing?

Jun 28, 2016 - Modified Jun 28, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to kintstoner

I have printed with a 0.8mm nozzle (Worked well), never with a 1.0. So long as it is for 1.75mm filament it should work - but you'd have to use Volcano hotend. I need to get a Volcano option done on the 40mm bed fan for larger versions.

How do I buy the kits ?

There will be eBay links in the next couple of days.

Love the work you've done on this. Thank you!!
Couple of questions..
Do you still plan on having gearing sets for sale again this week?
Are you working on a Chimera\Cyclops version too?

Yes, I just got my gears in last night. I expect to have the new kits posted by Thursday.

Yes, I am well into the design of the Chimera, and it will also have a swappable hotend. The reason I delayed releasing the dual extruder is I wanted all the features from the single available on it.

Awesome, looking forward to it!!

Have you ever thought about using ou designing a support for a capacitative sensor like this one? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-6-36V-300mA-NPN-NO-3-wire-Tubular-Capacitive-Proximity-Sensor-Switch-1-10mm-/191680208364?hash=item2ca107ddec:g:jMEAAOSwv-NWXQrx

I have one of this and I was thinking about using it with the toranado.. :)

If you look, others have done so w/ the BL touch mount.


I preferred to add native support for a sensor that was lighter, did not require aluminum and worked on any surface.

Toranado Inductive Proximity Sensor Bracket

As I had one of these proximity sensors, I decided to give it a try.

Followed dvseliteus design!


Toranado Capacitative Proximity Sensor Bracket

Ok thank you!

Thanks for the quick reply and your help!!

Yes, I purchased the drive gear in the link you listed.

I cleared out the gear with a wire brush every other test run.

The knurled nuts came loose on my first set of printed parts. So I switched to a better (more expensive) filament for the last two prints and they are staying in place now.

I was wondering if the diameter of the feed roller bearing is too big or too small. Or even off by a hair. Can't remember where I got them. Do you have a suggested measurement?

Any other ideas?

The OD on the bearings is 16mm.

Take off the decoration cover on the right side, and put the two screws holding the right side bearing back in. This will let you see the idler on the drive gear.

Please send me a photo of what you see.

How would you like me to send the pictures? It will not allow me to post them in the comments section.

Brakow87 - we will get you up and running, thanks for e-mailing me the pictures - we should be able to get to the bottom of this.


Thanks for all your help! I appreciate it!

Are you using the Ultibot MK7 drive gear with the 11.17 effective diameter?

Is it full of stripped filament?

Are the knurl nuts that hold the idler clamp coming out?

Thanks for the quick reply and your help!!

Yes, I purchased the drive gear in the link you listed.

I cleared out the gear with a wire brush every other test run.

The knurled nuts came loose on my first set of printed parts. So I switched to a better (more expensive) filament for the last two prints and they are staying in place now.

I was wondering if the diameter of the feed roller bearing is too big or too small. Or even off by a hair. Can't remember where I got them. Do you have a suggested measurement?

Any other ideas?

Are you using the Ultibot MK7 drive gear with the 11.17 effective diameter?

Is it full of stripped filament?

Are the knurl nuts that hold the idler clamp coming out?

I have version 1.1. I purchased the kit from your link. No matter what I seem to do I can't get mine to extrude. The filament is slipping. If I push with my finger on the bearing piece it will extrude, but stops as soon as I let go. I have tried different tensions to the two spring loaded screws above the bearing. Tried super tight to super loose and everything in between. Any words of wisdom?? Could really use some help! Went from version 1.0 to 1.1. Reprinted all parts 3 times already. Still same issue every time! Been a 4 month project so far. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Will the original plastic gear and actobotics hub fit into the 1.2 or will I need to buy new gears?

Both the 1.0 gears (yours) and 1.1 gears (aluminum) will drop in.

All of the extruders that I design both now and in the future will be compatible with all of the gearset kits that have been out there. They will always be drop-in replacements. (Since the gears will likely last the life of the extruder). I just thought that was the right thing to do.

On the 1.0 gears, you will need to print tpge-spacer.stl (when I post it for the 1.2 plastic).

On the 1.1 gears you will need to use the m5 washer that is in the current build instructions (#14).

I'll try to remember to add both those steps to the new build instructions.

Since it appears the dual Toranado is no longer up, I am asking here out of curiosity, is there any information on mounting points for the dual extruder?

I need to redesign my extruder mount, and as I have every intention of running either the dual v6/chimera on my printer, I would like to be sure my mount is versatile enough without being needlessly large. I could design an adapter that can be mounted between my carriage and the Toranado dual mounting points, or have an adapter for the single extruder.

Do you have any numbers to give estimation on width of the dual extruder? Is any of the plastic even begun modeling yet for the dual? Now you've made the whole extruder assembly removable, you are making it a lot harder on me and my water cooled heat block :)

I have begiun the modeling, and anticipate putting the slides back up in 2-3 weeks. It was critical that I got the hotend swapping issue and airflow solved, which I'm very happy to say is complete.

My own Chimera will be here next week, at which time I can make sure it mounts well to my design.... and I will re-publish it.

I will update you on the width as soon ASAP.. if I don't soon, pls remind me.


Another thing... the Chimera mount with 2x NEMA-14s makes it a lot less cramped down by the hotend. So the width up top by the motors and gears will be much less than down at the hotend.

Just checked the CAD...

The current measurement from the outside of the gear decoration cover to back of the NEMA 14 (The width) is 59.36mm - So I would expect them if oriented back to back to be twice that, with about a 3mm gap between the motors - or about 122mm wide (from gear decoration to gear decoration). Down by the print surface, it will probably be about the same width as the 40mm bed fan.

So is it safe to assume you'll be keeping the "L" shaped 3 screw mounting system the single extruder is using? There would be 6 now, mirrored?

If that is so, that is enough information to keep me busy this weekend designing my new mount.

My mount is actually derived from the i3 rework which has 4 holes at the same spacing.

Yes, I'd like everyone w an i3 rework or similar variant to be able to direct mount my dual

Jun 26, 2016 - Modified Jun 26, 2016
alanacial - in reply to Toranado3D

By every mounting option I can conceive, it looks like the dual extruder in its entirety might be 120mm wide, but the mounts wouldn't be more then 80 or 90mm, unless they were designed differently. I saw the sneak peak of the gear layout and it seems while the cover may extend beyond the mounting points at your estimated 122mm, there is no need to have the carriage an extra 30-40mm wide, unless I am not considering something? Are you just considering ends stops on the carriage perhaps (to avoid the extruder from hitting the sides)?

You stated above the mount was based off the i3 rework with 4 holes, but even in the renders of the v1.2 single, I still see the same 3 carriage mounting studs. Could you clarify?

Jun 26, 2016 - Modified Jun 26, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to alanacial

Yes, I am using 3 mounting holes because my motor is in the way on the 4th (the i3 rework motor was above the carriage).

My Dual extruder will be designed to mount to my x-carriage.

Also - the limiting factor for mounting carriage width will be the linear bearings more than the extruder footprint, I think.

Been a month, any update on the dual?

Anybody out there interested in a way to leverage the Toranado goodness for a Sparkcube1.1XL? It's been a head scratcher for me. I'm in no rush. Haven't started building the printer, but I would love Chimera + nema 14 geared extruder + modular active cooling based on the Toranado components. Please share thoughts if you have them.

It would take a complete redesign to make a Chimera fit this.

I'm working on the Chimera Dual as we speak.

Great! I like the new version. Waiting for video reviews.

Looks awesome...buuuuut I'm gonna keep waiting for the dual extrusion variant :D

Keep up the cool work!

Love the new design V1.2.
I wonder if I can transfer all the parts from V1, can this be done, if not, let me know.

Wil the V1.2 be compatible with the extended Volcano hot end?

Yes. I will have to remember to add a different 40mm fan duct on the back to get the airflow down on the print bed with the extended hotend - but that would be a worthwhile change I think.

Check the width of the volcano heating block and compare it to the width of the normal heating block. If they're the same, you'll be able to use it as the volcano is mostly just a longer heating zone so it can "spew" out filament.

Are there plans for a Toranado extruder for the chimera hotend in the future?

With a L/R version of this available it will be easy to create a mount for the Dual Toranado with Dual E3d-v6s.

However, I have framed in a Dual design w a Chimera mount, which I can get to after this.. So yes. that is the plan.

Jun 18, 2016 - Modified Jun 18, 2016

Are you going to have an upgrade kit for us that have the 1.1? Like with the wiring plugs and hardware we will need to upgrade to the 1.2.

Kool, thanks for the quick reply.

It looks fantastic! How do we order the hardware kits? I looked over the summary for a website or somewhere to order. I do see they are on back order and I do not mind waiting. Thank you, and great work!

Looking forward to 1.2-- what parts are in common if any, with 1.1?-- I'd like to preprint the common parts to be ready!!! Awesome!

Every plastic part has been tweaked or re-designed except the 30mm and 40mm fan covers.

Whoa nice design on the 1.2. love the idea of being able to quick swap hotends in and out. Brilliant.

On the slide where two extruders are side by side, the right one has misplaced nozzle.. I think )

Jun 17, 2016 - Modified Jun 17, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to biocomp

I see what you mean. Fixed the graphic, good catch.

The nozzles are oriented the same - but it is important that they are centered! :)

Version 1.2 looks mighty fine in the pics. Looking forward to printing it.

great! I am currently useing the v1. It is so far problem free for me. Im looking forward to trying the new changes.
Thank you for sharing.

will you still have the bltouch mount?

Jun 16, 2016 - Modified Jun 16, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Rebuildit

Of course.


Jun 16, 2016 - Modified Jun 16, 2016

Hey the features in the upcoming v1.2 look good. One question, the pins used for the Plug&play extruder feature
look like normal pin headers, will they hold the amp draw needed by the extruder heater?
Still in the pins, it would be nice to also include a few more for bed leveling sensors.

I'm about to start assembling v1.1, will the parts be compatible?
I mean the purchased parts as the 3D parts those I can easily print.



The connectors I integrated are commonly used headers for battery applications and come with cut leads on 22AWG. The terminals and connector housings are rated at 3A per the website. So they are overkill for the 30mm fan and the thermistor, but just enough for the heater cartridge. I'm currently using/testing it on a 40W cartridge heater on a 12VDC system (3.3A) and have not had an issue. A standard E3D 30W cartridge would be at 2.5A.

There are some minor fastener changes between the 1.1 and 1.2 kits, so the kits are not the same. But I ensured all of the big ticket items like the motor, hotiend and gears all drop right in (from either the 1.0 or 1.1 kits).

Thanks for the reply.
If it runs close to the 3A then it may get a bit warm but should be fine.

As for the rest that is great news.
I'm still waiting for some last parts to assemble mine so with a bit of luck the v1.2 is out in the mean time. ;)

Just in case any one didn't read or follow the previous comments about my print problems (or even if you did), BigCooter hit the nail on the head. I insulated my hot end with a thermal pad, and so far so good. Before, it would not print for more than an hour. I just finished a print that took over three hours, with no problems.

I used a piece of the black (looks like felt) pad used to put between walls or studs and pipes to be sweated together so you don't burn your house down. I know lowes and home depot sell it. I figured if a propane torch can't burn through it, then it should work well for this. Make sure it is fully between the hot end and cold end, and wrapped all the way around the sides. Kapton tape holds it in place.

Awesome news. Thank you for sharing.

Has anyone else experienced the extruder jamming because the cold end gets too warm? I have tried three different fans, and the extruder jams after about an hour of printing. It prints perfectly for that first hour though, then it jams. And the filiment is soft and melty up into the cold end. I contacted e3d online, and they said it sounds like a bad fan, so I ordered a new one from them, and it still happens.

I don't know what else to do at this point.

Please see what I posted to Damrin... feel free to try as well.

OK, wow I feel vindicated now! I have been 3d printing for about 5 years now and have always avoided all metal hotends because of a bad experience I had with an earlier e3d. Yes, I am having the same issue... It is a genuine e3d and the fan is working fine. I also had a similar issue with a hexagon hotend in 3mm but not with the 1.75. So strange. I figured it must be a melt temp issue, but have been unable to correct it. I even tried a duraplat nozzle thinking that was the issue. It just stops feeding after about 30 min of printing for me, and the filament is jammed. I clear the jam and re feed, and it works great for 30 more min and bam! Same issue.

Jun 12, 2016 - Modified Jun 13, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Damrin


Would you be willing to try something for me?

Remove the 40mm bed fan. I know this is not optimal, but remove the shroud and all - the plastic piece that holds the 40mm fan take it off so that you have just the e3Dv6 and 30mm fan duct on it. Also, I noticed that I have the e3Dv6 duct upside down on v1.1 compared to how the fan is oriented on the e3D website - please rotate your e3dv6 30mm fan shroud 180 degrees when you take off the 40mm fan duct. Try printing without a bed fan, and with a rotated e3Dv6. This will affect your print quality (with no bed fan), but it will help us troubleshoot whether or not some fan types allow the hotend to get too hot under the shroud.

I have much improved 30mm airflow on the upcoming v1.2.... but I am wondering if the 30mm fan inside that shroud is an issue for some fan types. I have not had the issue... but I did feel compelled to fix the 30mm airflow because I was worried about a convection effect by concealing the hotend under the shroud.

Of course, I have over 400+ hours printing on mine without any issues....

Please let me know.


Will do sir. I use petg almost exclusively, so I dont use print cooling. I will try this with and without the shroud and report back. Thanks for the assist Wes!!

Jun 15, 2016 - Modified Jun 15, 2016
BigCooter - in reply to Damrin

I recently started printing PETG with the Toranado, using E3D v6 hotend with 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, eSun brand PETG black. I had hot end clogging about an hour into the print, every time! ... the solution was to insulate the hot end heater block, using 1" wide ceramic fabric stuff, wrapped with Kapton tape, covered all six sides of block. The Toranado bed fan shroud wraps around, this creates a somewhat enclosed zone that heats up the heat sink too much at higher nozzle temps (didn't happen with PLA printing at 215C). The insulated block does fit in the available space. NO MORE clogging. Then I noticed that the PETG print quality dramatically improved with use of the bed cooling fan, cranked up. Then I noticed the typical PETG stringing that goes on with PETG, can be dramatically reduced with slight adjustments in Flow Rates, 1-2% reduction can reduce stringing in 1/2 at least. My PETG print quality is the best I have ever experienced, darn close to PLA. I am printing some finally detailed small drone camera housing parts now, that use M1.4 tiny screws, and making mini USB connector housings .. results are outstanding. Try the above ideas.

Forgot to mention .. I was also having difficulty reaching and maintaining 235-240C PETG printing temp, when the bed fan kicked on, the nozzle temp would drop up to 10C below target temp .. I observed the heater was on 100% of the time, but couldn't reach temp ... after insulating the block, this problem was solved! ... now the nozzle heater block cycles on and off at a low duty cycle while maintaining temp with ease.

Lastly, insulating the header block, also blocks heat from radiating into your printed part .. that heating effect degrades print quality ... insulating the heater block is a must do IMO, for all applications / extruders.

Hi! I printed all the Toranado parts and bought the kit. I was really excited with this because my last extruder (bowden) was giving me headaches. When I started the first print test, I noticed it wasn't extruding enough filament!
I am using a A4988 driver at 1/16 steps (with the correct gear steps value) and then noticed this is for 1/32 steps... So it won't work with 1/16?
Also, the stepper I'm trying is this: http://www.banggood.com/JKM-NEMA14-1_835-Hybrid-Stepper-Motor-Two-Phase-28mm-Motor-1000g_cm-0_5A-p-980601.html
Do you think it suits the requirements?

Thank you!

Clearly you are not using the correct step value for the Toranado, in the main page is clearly explained how to calculate the steps, just in case....
There's nothing to do with the steps, just use the correct ratio:
(20016 microstep)=3200[(94/19)/(11.173.1415) ]
gear ratio(94/19)=4.947
Hobbed gear circumference(11.17
Is simple as that.
Should be 451 steps more or less, but do not trust just the math, try to extrude 100 of filament(input, not output), and increase/decrease the steps to match this lenght
The motor is more than enough, just be careful he is not missing steps due to the low current, check the volt reference.

Have fun with this great extruder, is a good one!!

gvalente - in reply to

Everything is working now and I'm truly in love with this extruder! All the filaments I couldn't print with other extruders because they have humidity, now I can print with them again!

Thank you for this amazing design and I'm waiting for the new version to print it!

This is good news! Thanks for the update.

Comments deleted.

Will the new version use the same hardware kit? I just ordered the kit and didnt realize a new version was coming out,

There will be some changes to the fasteners, but all of the hardware will drop right in.

I was thinking of printing some of the blue parts in PETG. Do you think it would be ok being that close to the hotend?

I have done many of the parts in PETG and they are fine... (including the shroud)

Hey, i made a Wanhao Di3 x-carriage for this.


X Carriage for Wanhao Di3 Toranado PGE
by Beevus

Awesome - I will add it to the list soon!

Ok, I may have posted that comment too soon. With the new drive gear, it printed perfect for about an hour and a half, then it started slipping again, and not extruding. I never noticed this with colorfab, but I may not have had any long prints with it yet. The new drive gear is definitely better, but I think my issue is something else. When it starts slipping, I can manually push the filament through, but it is harder than normal. And when I turn the extruder wheel by hand, it slips on the filiment quite easily. It's not making sense to me, so if any one has any ideas, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Just for clarification, you have an Ultibot drive gear, correct?

So I tried a new SD card, no luck. It failed after 10 minutes. Some how melted plastic is oozing up into the cold end jamming up the extruder. The e3d tech support said it sounds like it could be a week cooling fan, but should'nt it print fine for a lot longer than that even if there was no fan at all?

Any ideas what to do next?


I had a fan go bad on my E3D V6 today. Trust me, it won't print long without a fan.

Well, usually the best solution is the easiest. I am probably overthinking/over complicating the problem, and blowing off the real culprit. Oh well. I'm good at that.

I do have a new fan on order. Hopefully that won't take long to get here, and I'll let you all know how it goes,

Thanks for the input,

Yes. I do have the Ultibot gear, and it does work better. However, I may have figured out the problem. It does fail with colorfab. The filiment is not the issue.

The problem is that during the print, the extruder will at random retract for several mm. That pulls melted filiment up into the cold end binding it up. For several months now, the X and Y axis motors have also been randomly moving toward the home direction, then back again. And now just recently, the extruder motor.

It was suggested to replace the SD card. And I was told I should use a 2gb card. Nobody sells one that small in an actual store, so I have one on order. When I get it and try it out, I'll let you know how it goes.

Just a word of advice for anyone sourcing your own parts. I thought I would save a few bucks and buy a hobbed drive gear from eBay. It was only about a buck or so and I thought 'how could there really be that big a difference'. It worked fine, until I changed filament. Apparently the new filament (I went from a colorfab material to a makerbot material) is either harder, smoother, slicker, or something. The cheap drive gear I got would not grip it. So I shelled out the $8 for the Ultibot MK7 Drive Gear, and surprise surprise, it worked. So trying to save a little, I ended up wasting a couple of bucks and a little bit of my time.


I m on my way to build this mini purse I3 version : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023641

Can we expect a bowden version of the tornado concept ?

mini 3D printer (3Dtje)
by 3Dtje

I just had to replace the extruder nozzle on this thing. That could be a bit easier... :-)

May 18, 2016 - Modified May 18, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to mperdue

LOL. Yes it is not as easy as it should be. That is precisely why I am designing the next version, as that was the issue I sought to fix, and it has been definitively dealt with.

Glad to hear it. :-)

what is the bltouch offset settings x,y,z?

I'm using X = 25.0, Y = 0.0, Z = -2.5. The X and Y should be good for you but the Z will almost certainly need to change.

May 17, 2016 - Modified May 17, 2016
jared248371 - in reply to mperdue

Is there any type of quality loss of any sort when operating with the BLTouch since the z axis would be in constant movement as well?

May 17, 2016 - Modified May 17, 2016
mperdue - in reply to jared248371

Edit of my original replay. I misunderstood the question at first. The movement in the Z axis is very small unless the bed if really out of level. I haven't really noticed any problems with this setup.

Comments deleted.

My birthday came and went and no new version... dang... :-)

I have seen some of the prototyped features ... it's going to be very awesome!!! Some people will be well served by V1.1 ... and others will certainly want the new version, in order to have features previously only available on high end commercial machines.

The features he has mentioned here make me want the coming version but you are correct that v1.1 is nice as it is.

May 11, 2016 - Modified May 11, 2016

Done and very pleased with the result. Tip: buy the hardware kit!! I'm pretty resourceful with a shop full of 20 years of packratting...but I sprung for the extra hw kit and it made the whole process 10x more pleasureable.

I'm testing my printer at higher speeds today. I've kicked the X/Y default speed up to 130mm/sec and the Toranado is keeping up nicely.

I would love too se a movie of it printing that fast!


Hatchbox PLA
Part size: 88mm x 88mm
Bed Heat: 55C
Extruder Heat: 230C
Acceleration: 700mm
Jerk: 10.

That is just awesome! What printer do you have?

It's a home built machine that started out as a Wilson 2 and morphed into something different. It runs Marlin firmware. Azteeeg X3 Pro controller. 10mm guide rods on the X and Z axes and 12mm rods on the Y. 300mm x 400mm x 250mm build area.

Very nice. I thought that looked like a Wilson... :P I have a gen1 myself.

I would really like to see a video of your Toranado printing at this speed, is the quality of the printed part still perfect?

2020 rail compatible carriage here.


TS 2020 Rail Carriage for Toranado, Prusa i3 Attachments

awesome 2040 in the works?

May 6, 2016 - Modified May 6, 2016
timeshell - in reply to KaTZWorld

Sure is.

Regarding the BLTouch mount, I realise that once it is initially set right no physical adjustments are required.
I only concern is that there is no adjustment to take into account the slight height differences of the nozzle/hotend lengths. Genuine E3D might be OK but what about the various clones. I would ne interested in hearing your views.

I am using a genuine E3D v6 and had to shave 1mm off of my mount. There really should be a way to trim the height of the BLTouch easily.

I'm using a e3D v6 clone and had to shave about 1mm off the BLTouch mount to get a workable range of Z offset height adjustments. I suppose there could be differences due to different printer Z step calibrations (or miscalibrations!) that could change the final mounting height of the BLTouch. Once I made my minor adjustments with a Dremel and cutoff wheel, I was ready to go!

Yeah, there must be a difference. I have a genuine E3D and have more than enough pin with the stock setup. Glad to hear it is working for ya!

I'm using a genuine E3D and I had to make an adjustment to mine. I modified the STL to lower the BLTouch by 1mm.

What application/software did you used to modify the SLT? If you don't mind me asking?

I use Shade 3D and Cheetah 3D for my design work. I don't remember which one I actually used but either is capable of doing it.

I made the first print today.... I was expecting the worst of it printing, everything I built up including the 3d printer that taken me months and most of it is waiting for parts (lost in post). I guess you might do the same, the cube test came out a cube, I am still gobsmack. Well done, Photo later.

May 3, 2016 - Modified May 3, 2016

I've made a 3 mm filament version of this extruder. I've put it on MAKES. Really few modifications are requiered and work really good, with only an increase of weight of 40g due to the bigger NEMA-14 motor I've used. Thanks for this incredible extruder :-)

May 3, 2016 - Modified May 4, 2016
armenio - in reply to armenio

After some exhaustive tests is not working propely. Forget it by now :-(

Well, it might work w larger nozzle sizes, but driving 3mm filament through a 0.4 or 0.5 nozzle is probably not optimal. What drive gear are you using? Remember it needs to have a very similar effective diameter for the pulley to work.

I'm working on it, may be the problem is there. I'm using a MK7 for 3 mm filament. I measure everything and it should work. I think there are problems with the PLA pieces. They bled with heat.

I'm finally putting together my v1.0 TPGE. How critical are the second set of PTFE washers and the metal washer by the NEMA-14 in step 9 of the instructions? The bolts I have (from the parts kit) aren't quite long enough to get a good amount of threads in the stepper motor. If I remove those two washers (again, one PTFE and one metal), it fits fine. I still have a PTFE washer on both sides of the printed part.

I printed my parts using PETG, for what it's worth.


You will likely be OK, but I have not tested it.

Thanks. Once I set the driver to the right voltage, the NEMA-14 seems to run quite cool.

Now if only I could get the E3D fan to be quiet...thinking about a mod to use a 40mm fan instead.

Noticed the release date for the 1.2 version was no longer mentioned on the details page.
Does this mean things are getting pushed out indefinitely until you finish figuring out the last of the details? :(

Sometime even the smallest change in a design require the entire project rewiew, is not that easy i guess (but i'm not a designer, so is just a comment from an ignorant man :-) )
i'm sure that Wes will deliver a really useful change in the Toranado, looking forward to see whats in the pot....

I'm close.

I think its worth a few more days of waiting.


Take all the time you need.

what mperdue said, was really trying to figure out if I wanted to go for a 1.1 and then upgrade later if the 1.2 design needed time to get it nailed.

Damn! My "clamp hotend" and "idle tensioner" is not keeping enough pressure on the filament to be feeded. What can possibly be wrong?! Almost done and then this problem :(

It doesn't take a ton of force onto the filament for the MK7 to drive it. Be sure the springs are not snagged on the M3 threads of the bolts they are on. Be sure you did not over-compress your springs.... and keep me posted.

For me it actually requires alot of manual force on the "idle tensioner" to get it flowing. I dont know why? Will send u a picture of the springs once i get home from work.

Did you ever get this issue resolved?

Check carefully the MK7 teeth. Be sure it is perfectly aligned to the hole, tightened to the shaft and if there is any plastic debris in the drive gear, clean it w a toothbrush or light wire brush..

I'm one of the lucky ones that Wes built one of the early ones for. I've got it mounted on my printer, but as Wes told me that darn old 18mm proximity sensor just looked horrible next to his beauty (well, not exactly his words, but I got his meaning...) Anyway, I went and ordered one of the bl Touch probes and it should be in this week when I get back into town.

Now my only real question is how to hook this all up to my Fastbot BBP 1S control boards. I'm not sure which stepper drivers are built into the board (its not a ramps 1.4, but an all-in-one), so I'm going to take it slow and maybe someone here has "gone where I have not before" (to horribly butcher a phrase) So I'll get the final mechanics swapped over to the new probe and route the cables and the display on my SWEET Micro XT PC case (I made a bezel and some additiional bits and posted them -- look for Fastbot BBP 1s Bezel by me for the STL files.)

I'll post more when I'm ready to make that final leap


We need to meet up so I can see your actual setup. Maybe we can do it one of these evenings after work.



If it has standard servo support, thats how you set it up with the servo angles of 10 and 90 degrees. It has a processor hidden in the case that interprets the pwm pulses to extend and retract the probe. It should be easy to setup if youve ever setup a servo engaged probe before.

No v1.2 yet... Bummer...

LOL! This video made me laugh :)

I am also anxiously awaiting v1.2 as well as looking forward to seeing the dual extruder get some love :D

Take your time. There's no need to rush your work. And, BTW, this was very definitely a compliment.

I know. :)

So, consider my poor wife. You know that when she married me 20+ years ago she would not have imagined my evenings being consumed with a 40mm fan duct... and the front of our home filled with Hatchbox PLA. She probably had things working a tad differently in her mind.

Glad the video made you laugh.

Comments deleted.

Great clip. Just take comfort in the fact People make comments about not having the next version because they like it so much they can't wait. So it's a complement. :-) F5, F5, F5, F5 lol

Finaly i had time to start this build, and i get stuck right away. My shaft seems to long? What to do?

Here I whipped up a Nema 14 plate you can print as a shim. Just lay it flat on your bed and scale the thickness to whatever you need. Make sure you unlock your scaling so only the thickness changes. I built it to be 3mm thick as is.

Nema 14 Plate

Or even easier just put some shims between the motor and where it attaches and use longer screws to mount it. That will slide the shaft out a bit and make it fit.

Just remove the small gear cover and carry on finish the build, then ask the designer to post a modified file with a pass thru hole for the longer shaft if he is happy to do that, as i had the same problem with a new motor (Wantay Motor) very good quality but longer shaft.

dejven - in reply to

Okey! Many thanks!

I have a problem making the toranado work: everything is fine except for the speed of the filament extrusion, it's too slow to print. I know that there is the 902steps/mm value but i dunno where to set it. I use repetier. Thank you

maybe i have to remove a pin from M3 to let the board work with 1/8 steps instead of 1/16?

First make sure what type of stepper you have, and it's max steps. (I made this mistake, I had 1/16 and needed 1/32) Remember, Toranado is designed for 1/32 steps, so adjust your stepping accordingly. IE: I has the 1/16 so I had to double the steps when I upgraded to 1/32 in my firmware. Also, after you know what stepper drivers you have double check the jumpers on your ramps board under the stepper drivers themselves. Use this for reference: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0627/7013/files/NARTimage030_grande.png?6640975367770439408
One more thing, if you upgrade from 1/16 to 1/32 steppers note the orientation when installing the steppers, they are different!

I had 1/16 so at first i removed one to 1/8 but still bad result so i tried removing another to 1/4 and now it prints great

I am very pleased with the upgrade to 1/32 steppers plus it's a cheap upgrade.

I see that your parts kit is sold out. Are you going to be listing any more?

"Sold Out, More Shipping 4-24-2016"

I can't believe I missed that.... >.<

The last parts arrived today so i will post my make soon, i've done a little modification to mount a proximity sensor instead of a touch sensor.

Looking forward to seeing it.

Can this print ABS? Due to how the cooling fan is directed, I realized (As I was printing off parts) Most of the air cooling the the hotend will have no choice but to be directed down to the print...this could be bad for ABS.

sniffle - in reply to

I almost exclusively print abs with no issues, the air that directs down is quite warm and doesnt cause any issues for me, but ymmv

All of the airflow concerns are addressed in the v1.2 release. ALL of the 30mm airflow is captured and vented away from the print-bed with little restriction. Look for it soon.

Sooo....just out of curiosity will you guys be selling those all in one hardware kits on Ebay when the next version comes out? Because I'm excited....

Just printed your extruder and appreciate the elegance of your design. Well done TORANADO3D

Thank you. Looking forward to you positing your MAKE.

One of the brass threaded inserts has pulled loose on my TPGE causing the filament to slip so I plan to print a new base part to fix that. I'm reluctant to do too much repair while waiting for V1.2 to be released. Does anyone know if the base part that has the threaded inserts changes on V1.2? If not, I'll go ahead and print one.

Was it a brass insert that pulled loose on the hotend or was it one on the carriage? The extruder base for the v1.2 is a new part that will need printed.

It's the insert on the right (as viewed from the front) that holds the top of the extruder in place. I have a bag of the inserts but the hole is now too big to get it to hold in place. I was hoping to put things off till V1.2 was available to print but I guess I'll need to fix the existing one.

I am sorry (and frustrated) that your insert pulled out. Did you print your extruder base with more perimeters per the printing instructions? Also, you don't need to apply a ton of torque to hold the stuff together, just get it nice and snug. I am looking at better mounting options for v1.2 - thank you for sharing this - it helps me work on improvements.

I believe that I followed the instructions but anything is possible. I'll certainly be sure to follow them precisely this time around. Looking forward to the improvements.