Y-Axis Idler Support Bracket for Thing-O-Matic
by CampbellsBot, published
So I upgraded this part by fully recessing the nuts by making the part a little thicker. The holes are also large enough to not need any drilling, and you can also use the same bolts that were originally used - longer bolts are not needed. I also created a large radius on the right side to allow the problematic wires to freely slide over this area without catching.
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Welcome to the 3D printing community! Removing raft can be a time consuming and sometimes even a part-damaging process, that's why a lot of people print without rafts - if the 3D model allows it. Sometimes the raft is necessary to get a good grip and level base on the platform before printing. An X-Acto blade or similar device is typically the tool of choice to remove raft after trying to manually peel as much off as you can. You can also use a sander or a block of wood with sandpaper glued to it.
For a part this small/short, there's little need for the raft. If you have one of the TOM's with the Automated Build Platform, you may need raft for taller prints, as the flex in the plastic belt can cause the part to tip or run into the extruder head. The ABP belt can also resort in uneven prints
due to the belt bend/flex and wrinkles.
If you do have the ABP, I would suggest scrapping it and get the Aluminum build platform and some wide Kapton tape. MUCH more reliable and parts stick to the platform very well.
I just printed this item and excited about installing my first 'mod' onto my TOM. I am brand new to printing on my TOM - 3 days now - so this may be a newbie thing...am I the only person who can not get the raft off of the bottom of my prints? Or, does every else print without rafts? I looked at almost off the "I made one" pics of this item and no one else has raft parts. I can't pull the stuff off. Anyone offer any insight?
Yes, beauturner, a good option. I intend to try the slurry technique for several purposes once I install some positive ventilation, and possibly a fume extraction hood, in my TOM's new home.
Until then I'm using no solvents and printing only with the door open :-P
There is some slight benefit to loosely-held-captive nuts when trying to thread into them, though - no critical alignment needed.
Always there are tradeoffs!
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2. Unscrew and remove top two bolts from front right rod cover
3. Place bracket over Y-Axis idler bolt head and align with rod cover bolt holes.
4. Hold nuts in recessed areas and screw bolts on tightly.
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