PiGRRL 2 - Raspberry Pi Game Console

by adafruit, published

PiGRRL 2 - Raspberry Pi Game Console by adafruit Jan 21, 2016
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UPDATE 1.1 The case has been updated! Added new switch holder. New lip snap fits halves together, so no need for news! Removed screws holes for amp, Pi 2 and powerboost, just snap fit onto nubs! Added washers to prevent screws from puncturing case.


Full Parts List & Tutorial:

Download Fusion 360 FREE

PiGRRL Gamepad PCB on Oshpark

Raspberry Pi Retro Game Console
This project takes the original concept of the PiGRRL and makes it more powerful, using a Raspberry Pi 2 (or Model B+). It's about the same size but features more buttons (D-Pad, A,B,X,Y, L, R, pause and start.) and four extra buttons on the PiTFT. It's sporting a small audio amplifier and speaker, so you can enjoy the crispy sounds of 8-bit goodness.

Easier to build!
With this update, we really wanted to make it easier to build. We've dramatically cut the build time in half by making a custom gamepad PCB. Just solder in the buttons and an IDC box header to the gamepad PCB - No more tedious button wiring!

Project Expectations
This project is geared towards beginners, but is still a big project to take on. This guide will walk you through all the necessary steps to wire, assemble and build your very first Raspberry Pi game console. It does require a good amount of soldering, wire tinning and good ol' elbow grease, but don't be discouraged! If your dedicated to take on this project, it'll only take a weekend to make.

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1 day ago - Modified 1 day ago

Could you upload the .step files for the top and bottom of the case? I'd like to make a few edits. I found the source files on the adafruit tutorial, but they seem to be slightly different.

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Is it possible to build this with a Pi 3, or would that require an all new case design?

Can SNES buttons replace the 3d printed ones?

Any suggestions for printing on a printer with rafts? I have a zortrax m200 and the outside of the case will technically be the bottom of the print bed with the raft support attached. The bottom will not have a "finished" look to it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Does the Zortrax support external build surface like skins from PrintInZ? If it has auto-bed leveling, then perhaps you'll need to compensate for the extra thickness.

You can choose from a range of different sizes.

No, I don't believe it does. The Z-Suite software is proprietary and does not allow you to NOT print the raft. I think I might experiment with heat guns to smooth out the surface. That seems to be a popular technique.

I've noticed when I print the new version of the PiGrrl 2 case that the edge on the top case begins to fray when the two halves are snapped together. I printed the case halves using a .2 mm layer height with 2 shells. Is there a way to reinforce the edge?

Sounds like a bounding issue, perhaps try printing at a higher temperature on the extruder like 220c.

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Is it possible to laser cut this case out in wood? Has anyone ever tried?

It might be! The fusion 360 archive includes all of the solids and feature set. You'd have to optimize the geometry for milling and create proper tool paths using CAM tools. So, it's possible :-)

I printed out a 1.1 case, but there don't appear to be pegs for the Raspberry Pi? Is it just supposed to sit on top?

Yes, the Raspberry Pi PCB can just sit on the standoffs. Although, adding pegs wouldn't hurt :-)

I found after my first print that the pieces didn't quite fit together, the 'snap-together' lid breaks pretty easily, and the RBP seems doomed to move out of place.

Trying to print the old version of the case, but hoping for a 1.2.

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Will this print on a thingomatic?

If the build volume can print 145mm x 92mm it should! We also have split the case in half, so it can fit on smaller beds.

Hi there,
Really great project -very well designed!
I was wondering how you attached the on-off slide switch to the 3d printed enclosure. Hot glue?
Tanks in advance!

Thanks, Rasmus!

Yes, hot glue or any other adhesive should hold it in place, but you could also make "side clip" that prevent the slide switch from being pushed all the way into the case (like we have done on our upcoming PiGRRL Zero project).

So i am new to 3d printing, are the buttons supposed to be so tight? i do not see this being very good to play with.
Any ideas how to fix this?

There's a 0.5mm clearance around the buttons, so perhaps the case was printed really tight on the bed. A quick sanding around the edges using a filing tool should open those up. :-)

anyone have any luck with battery placement? the only place it fits it makes a loud noise in the speaker, I honestly can't find anywhere to put it. Using a 2500mAh

Check out our short video clip here for referencing how to insert the battery. Wrapping the battery in aluminum foil can help reduce the noise, just be sure to ground it (i.e. to the HDMI port). :-) https://www.instagram.com/p/BEYxaYGmVAs/?taken-by=ecken

I downloaded the .stl files, but am having trouble editing them in Creo 3.0. I want to make some modifications to this design. How do I obtain a DWG, STEP, or some other solid object file for this design? @adafruit

You can download the STEP files from the source here http://a360.co/1JIFbDc

I was wondering if anyone has tried making one of these using the capacitive version of the pitft screen https://www.adafruit.com/products/2423 instead of the restive version ??

Yes, it should work fine. It's not that useful while playing games, though it should work in Emulation Station (theoretically) :-)

it would work just the same. sice you dont use the touch screen part anyway

I made mine and the only thing I do not like is you cant easily connect headphones. Does anyone know of a mod to make this easier?

Use a stereo amp and connect a 3.5mm breakout to the amp. Not sure if you could reroute the audio from the mono amp to the standard Pi audio and just extend the 3.5mm to the side of the case with a male 3.5mm to female 3.5mm cable and switch between the two, but a stereo amp would also allow stereo speakers so you'd have to do some research.

there are special 3.5mm headphone jacks that have a cutoff switch built in that bypasses the speaker and only lets sound out of the headphones. you might want a stereo amp for this though since this project only uses mono sound.

Can not wait for everything to become instock / kit to be available.

Sorry about the long wait on getting parts in stock. It's actually due to such a high demand. If you don't want to wait until the kit is fully in stock, we recommend checking out our distributors (ie. sparkfun, digi-key, microcenter, monoprint) Here's a full list of them. https://www.adafruit.com/distributors Again, sorry we just can keep everything in stock! :-)

then youll be waiting for a long time. they never have all the parts at one time. that way they get you to pay the exorbitant shipping cost multiple times. I ended up having to hit up sparkfun and ebay to complete my build.

any update on the pack being avaliable? would love to build this!

Sorry, it's really hard to give an exact date or estimate. We recommend signing up for an email notification when it's in stock!


Working on remixing this :D Have several of the Pine64 boards coming in that ordered from Kickstarter, and have one set aside for this project! Hopefully it fits ok.

Is Polyflex Filament also good for the buttons? I have already printed them in Filaflex, but want to test out the Polyflex also

Should work just fine! Any TPE material will do :-)

Hello, which screws are needed in metric measurements?
Please advise

Have you figured this out yet? Unsurprisingly, Japanese dealers don't have American sizes...

i couldnt find any of the screws mentioned in the build at local hw stores with the exception of the #4-40s i just used what i had handy that were small enough. I think 3mm and 4mm screws will work too.

I can't solder for shit, are there any premade kits available? I can 3D print the case.

the soldering is not that bad

Any update on when the new kit will be available?


The kit is coming VERY soon, sign up for an email notification when it's in stock!


Apr 25, 2016 - Modified Apr 25, 2016
dokool - in reply to adafruit

It's been about 10 weeks, any update?

Why is the gamepad PCB designed so that the GPIO connector is offset from the one on the TFT? if they were lined up you wouldn't need the big kink in the cable which takes up a load of space.

Also moving the power switch up a little, moving the amp up and turning the power boost and having the usb out of the side just below the switch leaves enough space for a round 2200 lithium ion cell, its pretty difficult to get silver pack lithium polymer batteries in the UK now, no one wants to ship them!!

Well I used my awesome (not) Fusion 360 Skillz and remixed the bottom case to fit the other battery.

order your lipos from china, they dont label their packages and you can get a 2500mah battery that will fit in place of the 2200 they recommend.

Can someone post what the four buttons do next to the screen? I hope they can control the volume.

the buttons come standard with the screen and are mapped to esc 1 2 & 3 respectively. you can use them for anything. I use them for load and save state and vol up and down.

I just built mine about a week ago and the software that is included in the tutorial that adafruit posted made the top button on the screen exit the game but all the others are not assigned. I made two buttons do save/load state and the other one is still free

I haven't built one yet, but I know the past versions of the PiGrrl people have remixed the case and wired in volume control. Those also had the four buttons. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:969194

Pocket Pigrrl - Volume Knob

The PiGRRL Gamepad PCB need a different order or is in the box, thanks

Any timetable on when the new kit will be available? I am super excited to build this!

Can all the buttons be printed in PLA? I'm using my school's printer and I can't afford to buy semiflex or ninja flex. Do the abxy, side, and shoulder buttons just have to be split?

Yes, The gamepad buttons can be printed in PLA/ABS as long as they're split up to avoid "double presses". Other folks have had success with this method.

Thank you so much for the response!

Does it work with adafruit 2.8" TFT w/touch screen REV.B (STMPE610 + ILI9341 V2 ) ? I plan to use a Raspberry pi B+ .
Awesome project anyway !

The case was specifically designed around the 2.8" PiTFT Plus (https://www.adafruit.com/products/2298). The previous model (https://www.adafruit.com/products/1601) has different mounting holes and the position of the GPIO breakout is slightly offset, so that one unfortunately will not fit in the case.


Is there a way this could be re-designed so it is more ergonomic so there is less blank space? maybe better button positioning, larger screen or larger buttons?

Anyone else having slicing issues with slicing using cura-engine? All the openings end up with a single layer in them. Slic3r is fine with it though. Very confusing! Only tried the top so far.

i used cura and didnt have an issue. maybe update to the latest build?

Question... If i plugged an HDMI cord from the PiGRRL to a monitor, will I be able to play whatever game on my monitor rather than the TFT screen?

not really. you need to have fbcp installed to run emulationstation on the tft. and this mirrors all the content from fb0 to fb1. and you have to setup specific "hdmi" modes for the tft, so yeah you could work that out, but then youd have to totally redesign the case and hook up a keyboard everytime you wanted to switch between the two, kill fbcp and change the fb used to execute es, so it would be less time consuming to just buy abother pi.

Most likely, from what I understand the pi will default to hdmi if it is connected.

Printing now, once the kit is up I will order one and post the Make. then order more lol, at least 3 friends want one now.

finished and posted the make, will update it once i am able to order and install the electronics


Can we get access to the gamepad eagle files please? The button on the learn pages to the pcb source files gives a 404 ... :)

Thanks for catching the bad link! Just added a ZIP which contains the .brd and .sch eagle CAD files. https://learn.adafruit.com/system/assets/assets/000/029/938/original/PiGRRL-ButtonPCB.zip?1453489766

Very nice! But too big for my printer's 12x12cm bed...
A Pocket PiGRRL with Pi zero would be awesome!

We just added a "split version" which has the top and bottom parts cut in half - these should fit on print beds ~10x10cm. These can be glued together and smoothed with some finishing techniques (like Smooth-Os XTC-3D ). Hope this helps!

Having the M3D I am in the split case camp. Isn't the width of the case walls a little thin to hold glueing? Other wise awesome build

Can you provide the Fusion 360 file so that I can modify the case design?

Sure, the source file can be downloaded here: http://a360.co/1JIFbDc

Can you guys post a place to buy the buttons? I have a access to a printer but can't use anything except PLA in it.

I have had good results using pla buttons instead for the screen. You just need to cut them apart from the strip so they can each move individually.

You may want to try semiflex or cheetah from ninjaflex3d.com - it preforms much better than regular Ninjaflex on bowden style machines. There's also http://3DHubs.com to consider.

I printed mine in semi flex on my Rostock max

How the crap do I get the gamepad PCB without ordering 3 at once?

Please help!

We're working on making a kit, it'll be availabe soon - hang tight!


Can I print the buttons separately? I don't have ninjaflex.

I have had good results using pla buttons instead for the screen. You just need to cut them apart from the strip so they can each move individually.

think them do them soon

now Download All Files right only 2 of them in file

Ive found the download all button hasnt been working lately on most pages. Just save each individually

It seems the new update to Thingiverse may have caused the issue... Downloading them individually is your best bet!