Printable VELCRO
Description
3d printing revolution is just starting, I don't say this is a flawless piece but I really consider it is a very good example about a very sweet future about us modifying our brains from "search-buy-adapt" (frustration included) to "think-design-print" (self-pride included :D ).
Quick demo video: youtube.com/watch?v=BtLSMI3xVDY
Quick demo #2 (perpendicular): youtube.com/watch?v=eLehgIfjmpA
This was an object that did not exist in our 3d printing world, so I like to think this is an "upgrade" from real world to a better virtual&teleportable world ;)
Instructions
2. There may be some bridges because printing limitations, I used the included blade with my TOM kit to clean a bit the pieces
3. Use it!
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A similar design that could yield some forward progress on your project...
http://www.3m.com/product/info...
Product video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...
As seen in Popular Science 7 years ago or so.
I can't help noticing that the creator sports a beard. One might ask, is it compatible with the printed product? :)
Vik :v)
excellent, excellent idea. I just smacked my forehead. really.
it seems like there's a lot of extra plastic strands between the posts in your print. is this actually beneficial to grip? if so maybe you could strategically add links between your posts in different locations on different layers? they would break on insertion and give you tons of little frictio
n fingers (tm)
Thanks! I think the strands are beneficial as you said but you need to cut some of those initially to make the 'fastener' work (the pins are so small that the printer can't print them correctly).
I tried to add links in the top (as you can see in the attached image, so the strands makes a 'hair' to add friction) but the result was negative. So the truth is that the current design was an random success :( because I am still not able to enhance it.
Perhaps if, instead of having each peg curve smoothly outward, the pegs would hold stronger if they were made of a stack of sequentially larger cylinders? I'm thinking this way opposing pegs will have all these corners to hook onto instead of a gentle curved surface they'd be more prone to sliding on.
How about PlaStick as the name?
It should be obvious, but I'll say it anyways, but it's pronounced just like plastic.
Not the hook and loop velcro. This is the knobs - right? Probably better printing - better adhesion? Course the size and spacing - But - HEY! Pretty awesome first go for your addition to the New World! GOOD JOB! :-D
Thanks! Probably you can make the hook and loop! but with gcode, not stl files, also that will depend too much on the machine.
I tried lots of versions, even when some design look better in the 3d view, they don't work, that's why how this version looks. Pure empiric development hahah, not the best one but sometimes the only way 8-)
Printcrow?
A friend of mine sent me an idea about Vel-crow haha and the logo he thought was a crow with big claws xD
Sounds very nice :) any another idea?
In some countries velcro is called 'cierre-magico' (magic-fasterner), Print-A-Cierre sounds nice too.
I ran out of name ideas :(
Does this provide any significant force perpendicular to the strips? It looks like it only works well as an anti-slip pad at the moment.
That's really cool.
What do you want to call your fastening system?
The name "Velcro" is already taken. It is a registered trademark in the US and other countries.
It is better to spend time creating stuff, than dealing with lawyers.
License
More from eried
I tried 3 different slicing programs: Skeinforge 39, Slic3r, and Kisslicer with my Solidoodle at 0.3mm layer height. The best results were with Slic3r, with a near perfect print. Kiss came in 2nd place. It did a couple funky things that made a bad spot on one piece, but it still worked and sliced it in a reasonable amount of time (actually the fastest, under 1min!). Skeinforge took over an hour to create the Gcode and printed the bumps in an uneven diagonal pattern (looked just like the pics above) which rendered it unusable.
I used skeinforge with the settings from the instructions. The older version maybe works different, I am stuck with that one due my printer :D