Bridge Torture Test

1911
Downloads
5307
Views
Published on October 26, 2011

Description

See if the circle on the bridge comes out ok!

Struts are hollow to speed printing.

My test with this show me that I must print bridges slowly!

Instructions

1) print
2) observe bridge
3) adjust bridge settings
4) goto 1 unless great
5) observe quality of circle
6) fine-adjust bridge settings
7) goto 1 unless excellent
8) ???
9) profit!
Report as inappropriate

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Thanks for posting this Triffid. I thought I was going mad or there was something weird about my extruder when I realised that going faster was not better for bridging.

It makes some kind of sense if you think about the extruded bridge filament needing enough time to freeze behind the nozzle so that it doesn't sag as much under its own weight.

This thing gives me Headaches, did about 20 of them going back and forth with the quality.......guess i have to keep tryin. Some of the "i made em" pictures are just so amazing precise and clean....wow. Using a Beta Prusa Deluxe with Printrund and Slicer 9.9. But even with the secret Weapon Cura it didnt work out :( The first strokes of the Bridging are done with very slow nozzle movement, seems like they are treated as Perimeter not Bridging??? Then after a few lines it starts to switches to bridging speed, but than i already have drooping and slacking lines. The bridging works fine but the nozzle often destroys the fine lines when it goes over them a few times.......ARGHHHGHGH

Replicator 2 did it perfectly right out of the box

Pics/vid or it didn't happen.

One thing I have found when calibrating is that not only do the speed and flow rate need to be changed, but also the temperature. My original settings were not hot enough, so the plastic would be so viscous it stuck to the nozzle. Good luck printing!

I dialed my TOM in and bridging is far better then it was before I calibrated. My issue now is the initial strings are good and straight but when subsequent material is put down on top of those initial strings there is some sag. Do I continue to dial the speed down (at .5 for bridge flow rate multiplier) or is there another setting?

you need a fan to cool and solidify the bridge before the next layer goes on top. It sounds like it's still molten and gooey when the next layer is done at the moment

I didn't found the perfect settings for the Huxley (not much improvements either by lowering or increasing speed), but will try again later :p

Do you have a fan blowing on the print? That helped a lot for me.

I'm currently printing a 6th one now. Is there a guide to help with this?

if your strings droop, lower the flow rate. if they snap, increase flow rate.

if they don't stick to the towers, reduce speed.

please write a more elaborate guide if you work something out!

I didn't find it necessary to slow down to get this bridge printed. In fact, I didn't change anything! I printed with my usual settings of 52 mm/sec perimeters, 130 mm/sec infill, and active cooling.

Very nice bridge on the last... what were your settings (only tweaking bridge feed/flow?) before and after ? :)

the last one was printed with LH=0.2, feed=80mm/s, bridge feed=0.2, bridge flow=0.15 but of course it'll be machine-specific!

Am I right that you actually did that bridging in the picture with PLA?

yes, that's PLA.

I wasn't aware that there was a difference in bridging between PLA and ABS, care to elaborate?

It seems that there will be much torture before I even start printing my first non printer related part. I hope my repstrap will have a high pain tolerance when it's complete...