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Life Size Thor's Hammer (Mjolnir)

by ChaosCoreTech, published

Life Size Thor's Hammer (Mjolnir) by ChaosCoreTech Feb 3, 2016
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Summary

Please watch this video for more information and to see it in action: https://youtu.be/D6DdESIhi4c

Welcome all who are worthy! (Okay I promise that's the only worthy joke I'll make here. There's more in the video though.) :)

This is a fully 3D printed Mjolnir. I made it life size. I'm sure it's not the exact dimensions of the movie prop but it's close. It can also be scaled pretty easily. This version of Thor's Hammer is specifically from The Dark World movie. I'll provide the steps for post processing in a lot of detail below, but if you want a higher level look at it, watch the video.

I provided two different options for the main part of the hammer. It prints in 2 sections, and they are identical so just print 2 of them. There is a hollow one if you're looking to save a bit of filament (this is the option I took). But I also provided a solid one that will print in a better orientation if you're able to spare the extra filament. The solid option will also provide more weight which could add to the realism of it.

I hope you enjoy printing this! :)

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Robo 3D

Printer:

R1 ABS + PLA Model

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.3mm

Infill:

20%


Notes:

All of these settings are more or less flexible. The only supports you'll need are for the little slot on the bottom of the bigger portion of it. But they aren't strictly necessary. I didn't use any supports while printing, I just had to do some clean up. I printed at 0.3mm layer height but you could increase that for better details. I was just trying to save some filament. And infill doesn't matter too much here.

Post-Printing

Step 0: Print all the parts.

Step 1: Sand the parts down as much as possible. The details on the handle and the outside of the hammer can be pretty hard to get smooth, but do your best. The sides of the hammer should be completely smooth to the touch though. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper in the ballpark of 100 grit. Then move up to 400 or above to get the best results.

Step 2: Glue the parts together. Use the printed pins to hold the parts in place, then apply glue to those pins to adhere them together. I used a Gorilla Glue Two Part Epoxy, glued the parts and held them for a bit until they dried. Then once the parts are together, take a paint brush or something similar to apply the epoxy generously over any cracks or seams you want to cover. Then once the glue has dried completely, sand the areas over seams to get those smoothed down as well.

Step 3: Prime the hammer. We chose to use a black spray primer from Krylon. Coat the hammer at least twice, letting it dry completely in between coats. Just lightly spray across the surface using a normal spray painting technique. Don't stress too much about the detailed areas at this point.

Step 4: Painting the hammer. We used a Hammered Metal spray paint. Specifically silver colored. Apply 3 coats of this, letting it dry completely in between. If needed, you can sand any rough areas in between coats. Just use your judgement on what looks best. The paint should fully cover the hammer.

Step 5: Paint the handle. For this you'll need a paint brush and some brown acrylic paint. Paint the brown on the lower areas of the handle, leaving the silver rings and base of the handle as is. Make use of multiple brushes to get into hard to reach areas. Apply 3 coats of this to get a smooth, but plentiful coverage of paint. You can always go back over the details on the handle with silver paint if you need to.

Step 6: Apply a wash. I won't go into a ton of detail about the wash. You can YouTube "applying a wash to miniatures" if you want more details. We took some silver and black acrylic paint, mix it and watered it down significantly then applied it to the details on the handle and on the sides of the hammer. Use a paper towel or spare paint brush to dab off excess. This will give the recessed areas a more defined shadow.

Step 7: Rough it up. This step involves taking sand paper to the paint on the bulk of the hammer to give it a worn and used look. Go around the edges and just lightly sand it to give it a more textured look. Then take some of your paper towels you used to clean off the wash and lightly dust that darker color across the body for even more texture.

Step 8: Apply a finish coat. You can get some spray clear coat and just spray the whole thing once it's completely dry and done. This will help protect it from damage like scratches to the paint.

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This was very inspiring that I signed up to the site just to give praise to the maker. Fantastic work and very nice tutorial. Now I want to start a journey into 3d printing. Cheers!

Thanks for such a cool design! FYI, the handle is a bit fragile if handled by kids. My suggestion is to have a 5-6mm hole through the handle, then insert and glue a wooden dowel stick.

The handle-bottom and handle-top are non-manifold, causing large holes in the parts when loaded into Slic3r. The middle handle piece and the other parts of the model are okay.

I saw the same thing, had to use Cura to properly export the gcode.

Had to say this, one of the best How-To videos on Thingverse, please do more!!

Hi! Loving this one's handle, also going to try fitting leather into it, but wanted to ask, did you print with supports and clean, or did it print well enough without?

Could you possibly spit each halve into 4 parts. i am not aloud to have my printer running when i am not home or asleep (i have a room mate) and it would make it much more manageable to print?

Open the STL in slicer, click the CUT button.

Must to print body_half_solid.stl with support yes?

Still working on (and still loving) this model. But, I've hit a bit of a roadblock so maybe someone here can help.

I don't want to paint the brown sections. Rather, I want to cut leather pieces, stain them, and glue them in. However, I'm having a devil of a time getting a pattern to work. Is there any way to extrapolate or flatten the handle to be able to produce a flat pattern piece?

Can you tape with masking tape then draw or exacto cut the in-between sections?

what are the dimensions of the full thing and can you upload a full size whole model?

Comments deleted.

Loading this into Makerware doesnt work too well. There is a gap in each part of the handle for some reason. Just a heads up.

made a modification to the handle to hollow it out to accommodate a 21.5mm plumbing pipe insert for strength, also flipped the main body 180 as i found if yielded a much better print, picture to follow! also debating moulding the head to cold cast or even sand cast!

great item!

Comments deleted.

just printed it off :) its only 43mm high so with the two halves it will stand 86mm high I will post all photos later today of befor clean up when its together and when its all painted I printed small to stand next to my model and I must say looking at you'ers and looking at the model one you have done a brill job so give your self a big pat on the back and keep making stuff :)

I'd say the best bet for anyone wanting it to be weighted would be just to print the hollow version and fill it with something weighty and cheap. Less so saving on Filament, and moreso saving an incredible amount of printing time.

Awesome model!

That's very true. Thanks for the tips!

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