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Miniature Queen Anne Chair

by PrettySmallThings, published

Miniature Queen Anne Chair by PrettySmallThings Nov 7, 2011

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Description

This is a miniature Queen Anne style chair, designed for use in scale models and dollhouses. The files below are provided in 1/2" = 1'-0" scale, also known as 1:24.

My design goals were:
Maintain delicate proportions, but balance the need for durability.
Print without support
Good looking resolution, with little cleanup needed

This does print at 50% (1/4" scale or 1:48) but is very fragile. I imagine that printing at 200% (1" scale or 1:12, typical dollhouse scale) would require support, and I have not tested it.

Recent Comments

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Glad you found the talk helpful. The thingomatic was my first printer, though I don't use it much anymore. I used pairs 3D printed "rosettes" - you can actually see them in one of the photos here. Better still, get some springs, and only use one rosette on the bottom.

I just have to say that the video on youtube about the 3D design ten tips was really helpful to me. I saw on one of your prints that you are using a ThingOMatic (I think). I wanted to ask you how you level the platform. Thanks

I had a few failed prints on the MakerBot Replicator 2 until I set the layer height to 0.27mm, and then it was perfect!

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Instructions

I printed this on my Thing-o-matic MK7 with a (well leveled) HBP, using the standard 0026 profile, with print-o-matic set to 30mm/sec federate, 20% infill and a layer height of .3 and no support. I've been printing them in sets of two, as it seems to take about the same amount of time to print one as it does two. I printed with an extra large raft, increasing the raft margin to 10mm.

The "double" file contains small discs underneath the chair legs which help the legs survive a knock or two from the extruder, which seems inevitable in my setup. I've provided a single chair, without the discs, for the better tuned and more adventurous users out there.

I use a hot knife attachment on my soldering iron to clean up any loops or nubs, and separate the legs from the discs & raft.

If you have recommendations for achieving better print quality, I'm all ears!

Comments

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yeyeto2788 on Dec 15, 2013 said:

I just have to say that the video on youtube about the 3D design ten tips was really helpful to me. I saw on one of your prints that you are using a ThingOMatic (I think). I wanted to ask you how you level the platform. Thanks

PrettySmallThings on Dec 15, 2013 said:

Glad you found the talk helpful. The thingomatic was my first printer, though I don't use it much anymore. I used pairs 3D printed "rosettes" - you can actually see them in one of the photos here. Better still, get some springs, and only use one rosette on the bottom.

openback on Aug 28, 2013 said:

I had a few failed prints on the MakerBot Replicator 2 until I set the layer height to 0.27mm, and then it was perfect!

Creative_Hacker on Jul 3, 2013 said:

Hi are all the mini things you sell on your site printed on the makerbot?

PrettySmallThings on Jul 4, 2013 said:

Not at this time - I switched to commercial printing to deal with demand earlier this year and free up more of my time for design. I started my business with a replicator 1, and I plan to add back some makerbot printed items in the near future.

PrettySmallThings on Jan 23, 2012 said:

I would love to see some furnished photos!

Anonymous on Jan 22, 2012 said:

I run G scale trains in my basement... 1:29th scale... but all my buildings, cars and people are 1:24... time to fill the houses with furniture... these are awesome...

pelrun on Nov 29, 2011 said:

I was staggered when the 100% version printed on my Prusa, that shouldn't have worked. :D The 200% printed absolutely fine, no raft or support, but I've got my bridges dialed in pretty well.

Landru on Nov 11, 2011 said:

I have a suggestion to make them print just a hair better.

Instead of having the bottom of the cushion box all at one level, make the side crosspieces one layer below or above the front crosspieces. That way the bridge infill will go in the direction of the bridge at all times.

PrettySmallThings on Nov 14, 2011 said:

You are correct! I did not realize that forcing the bot to print bridges on more than one axis at a time was counterproductive. I've edited the files and uploaded an update, thanks for the tip!

RichRap on Nov 9, 2011 said:

Very Cool, nice job. 8-)

koolatron on Nov 8, 2011 said:

I love how the raft actually ends up looking like a delightful little rug underneath the chairs.

cyclone on Nov 8, 2011 said:

That is impressive,very well done. I've looked at furniture models just like these and thought they'd be unprintable. Clever use of printable bevel under the cushion to reduce the bridge needed for the seat.

PrettySmallThings on Nov 8, 2011 said:

I think the bevel helps, but the toughest part was finding the right diameter for the cabriole leg - too skinny and it snaps off, during the build or after. Too thick, and it just doesn't look elegant Once the bot connects the four legs, you should be good to go...

MikeBattaglia on Nov 8, 2011 said:

NICE! I love mini chairs.. definitely printing these soon.

MakerBlock on Nov 8, 2011 said:

These are AMAZING!!!

bdcannon on Nov 8, 2011 said:

Wow looks great. I might have to work on my bridge settings before I try this one.

Stephenwinter on Nov 8, 2011 said:

Very, very nice. I have a eight year old daughter that wants me to make a complete set of furniture. I don't think I can draw it. I sure hope you continue, it will influence many young people.

PrettySmallThings on Nov 8, 2011 said:

I'll definitely try to add more in the future! If you end up printing this in dollhouse scale (1:12) I'd love to see how it turns out.

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