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Stretchy Bracelet

by emmett, published

Description

This bracelet has no clasp; instead you can stretch it over your hand and onto your wrist. It was inspired partially by the Springamathing: thingiverse.com/thing:12053. The design on the outside was inspired by MakeALot's link bracelet: thingiverse.com/thing:7354.

UPDATE: At the request of nycdesigner, a couple of alternate designs are now also available.

Recent Comments

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Thanks, I made one, too!

Slmplify 3D slices much better than anything esle, and in seconds. Around 150$, but it did miracles on my print quality!

How do I get this to print on Makerbot Rep 2, without the solid fill in the middle. I tried setting the infill to 0%. Suggestions what am I doing wrong?

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Instructions

This bracelet is meant to print as a single layer thick. Stretchlet.stl has a thickness of 0.4mm, so it skeins up fine on my TOM. Then I remembered joris' trick with thingiverse.com/thing:8488, so Stretchlet1.stl creates the same shape, as long as you use zero infill, zero extra shells, and zero solid layers. It is also a smaller file and renders faster in OpenSCAD.

These STLs have an inside diameter of 55mm, so scale as necessary. You can also adjust the parameters in the OpenSCAD file, and it will print out the resulting diameter. The springiness works great with ABS, and apparently PLA works as well.

Comments

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melias on Jun 26, 2014 said:

How do I get this to print on Makerbot Rep 2, without the solid fill in the middle. I tried setting the infill to 0%. Suggestions what am I doing wrong?

Iceman086 on Mar 29, 2014 said:

I cant seem to get this to slice in Cura 14.03. It is one of my favorite models to print and give out when I do demos. Any help would be great!

Efyx on Jun 29, 2014 said:

Slmplify 3D slices much better than anything esle, and in seconds. Around 150$, but it did miracles on my print quality!

Exlr8 on Apr 13, 2014 said:

You need to use the solid version and fill with 0%, cure can't seem to slice thin parts.

The3D on Apr 2, 2014 said:

Try to use slic3r. It worked for me!

boeingdude1 on Mar 10, 2014 said:

Do you recommend this to be printed in PLA or ABS?

BmakAttacked on Mar 15, 2014 said:

I would go for ABS because of its flexibility.

wizardmorax on Oct 1, 2013 said:

I cant seem to get this to print on my Ultimaker :( I've tried replacing the tape, trying different resolutions in cura and i still cant get it to print, it just puts some blobs of pla down then picks them up again when it comes in another pass. Any ideas?

peterparnes on Dec 2, 2013 said:

I think you are printing the wrong STL. Stretchlet1.stl prints perfectly in UM1 and UM2. Layer height 0.2, infill 0, wall thickness 0.4.

thebigt27 on Nov 27, 2013 said:

try using glue too

Volf on Sep 18, 2013 said:

Perfect try with my PowerWasp. White PLA and nozzle 0.3

playindrums on Sep 13, 2013 said:

When I try to slice it with Slic3r it says: processing triangulated mesh. And it never goes to the next step. What should I do? Im printing with 1.75mm PLA and have infill at 0, perimeter at 1 and tob and bottom solid layers set to 1.

delmo on Sep 29, 2013 said:

I had the same problem. Use the "stretchlet1.stl" with 0 infill 1 perimeter

peterparnes on Jul 19, 2013 said:

Amazingly stretchy in PLA :) Thanks :)

728design on May 24, 2014 said:

How you get it sliced? Can you share?

cadconcept on Jun 30, 2013 said:

first printed it in red ABS, it was to stiff.
Second print I made was in Arnitel Eco black, this is the right material for such objects, flexible and soft to wear.

gamerguy51 on Jun 5, 2013 said:

makerware will not allow 0 shells.....any ideas?

emmett on Jun 5, 2013 said:

Try one. Different slicers have different ways of counting shells. With Makerware you'll have to make a custom profile in order to set floor and roof thickness to zero.

Fastrack on May 12, 2013 said:

Made 2 using Taulman 618 nylon. Dyed using Jetty's process of 50/50 vinegar/water and some food colouring (4 drops to 1/2 cup liquid). Bring to a boil and leave it until you get the colour your after, the longer it's left the darker the colour! Oh first time I boiled it with the object in.. by the time I took it off the heat (the small one) it was that dark! So I think a better method is to bring it to a boil and dip the object afterwards until you get the colour your after.

DO NOT heat the mixture in the microwave without the object in the liquid! It "blew up", food dye all over the microwave, I figured it's just liquid why would that happen :)

The triple colour one is 30cm high.. So I put 10cm in 2 different bowls... and just flip it over... (I rinsed it in water after each so it wouldn't run)

http://www.thingiverse.com/mak...

Great design! I couldn't figure out the Customizer.. So I just edited the Scad file :)

Ben

emmett on May 15, 2013 said:

Very nice, I like the watermelon one. I see you discovered the superheated water phenomenon. Thanks for the info.

jimustanguitar on May 11, 2013 said:

Check out this month's edition of RepRap Magazine (free online). This is one of the objects they used in their slicer shootout, and most of the programs had trouble. Try slicing this with Cura. After a month of fighting with the object, I got it to print this evening!

emmett on May 11, 2013 said:

Awesome, thanks. As usual, my designs are the bain of slicers. I had those troubles too, hence going to the solid model and only printing the perimeter. Good to see the slicers are making progress.

Leon22 on Apr 17, 2013 said:

if i put the stl fil in slic3r it wont slice ir can anybody help me

rbc1225 on Mar 26, 2013 said:

Worked great. Printed Stretchlet and it came out beautifully.

shai on Dec 31, 2012 said:

I can't seem to be able to slice this. Anyone also have this issue?

summetj on Dec 20, 2012 said:

I made one with "normal" PLA and it was too brittle. I had to scale it up 120% to fit (which improved the print quality), but several of the inner triangles were stuck together, and while I was trying to snap them apart I snapped the whole thing. Now it's just a spring thing ;< Going to try with ABS next. Any suggestions as to how to get the "inner points" of the triangles to not touch? I believe I have the slic3r config working (it just prints the bracelet with a single filament going all the way around) but the inner points sometimes "touch".

emmett on Dec 20, 2012 said:

I print with an extrusion width of 0.4mm, so if it's much higher than that, it may join up at the corners. Also, if you squish the first layer too much, they'll join just at the bottom layer.

Alzibiff on Oct 29, 2012 said:

Brilliant! Sliced with no problem using Slic3r and a 0.3mm nozzle but I had to follow the advice from FalcolnFour below when I tried to create GCode using Slic3r for my 0.5mm nozzle. Printed several of these in PLA and ABS - all good. Tried the options in OpenSCAD but like the original design in clear PLA the best. Christmas is coming .......!

BSchuler on Oct 18, 2012 said:

Stretchlet is a preloaded model on the spanking new MB Replicator 2 which is a sensational machine. Went from unpack to set up to Stretchlet in 15 minutes flat.  Looks great in transparent PLA.

siertwijnia on Oct 1, 2012 said:

Thanks a lot for sharing your design! We have printed it hundreds of times during the Maker Faire in NY. We added some gcodes to launch it with the printhead from our Ultimakers to shoot it into the public! The audience loved it!!!!

Thanks again!
Siert Wijnia
Co-founder Ultimaker

Ps. Best regards from Erik, he met you last year at the Maker Faire

emmett on Oct 7, 2012 said:

 Awesome, great to hear! I'd really like to see a video of you launching it off the platform. I might have to try that.

fredini on Sep 30, 2012 said:

Has anyone gotten this to work with Slic3r? My daughter got one from the Makerbot Booth at Maker Faire yesterday and was very excited. I tried to print another one with my printrbot for her but no matter how big I scale it, the machine wants to draw an inner circle, then a series of attached triangles, rather than one continuous line. 
Any tips? I've tried a number of variant slicing settings- slicer totally hangs on Stretchlet.stl, so all my attempts have been based off Stretchlet1.stl. 

raster on Oct 8, 2012 said:

 It worked for me with Slicer but it did take over 90 minutes to slice.

takigama on Aug 29, 2012 said:

This ones printed with Diamond Age PLA, havent seen an ABS version, but i'd love to know how it compares in ABS.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

Ditux348 on Dec 12, 2012 said:

i saw your video, it was amazing. Compliments!

Busybotz on Aug 28, 2012 said:

Fun, fast print. It printed perfectly on a Replicator, 0 infill, 0 extra shells, fill disabled in profile. I am surprised how flexible and durable it is. Good stuff! 8-)

rolfsnolf on Jun 19, 2012 said:

Slic3r wont slice the stretchlet.stl

and the stretchlet1.stl is seen as a circle with triangles attacked to it instead of actually being a line :(

FalconFour on Aug 18, 2012 said:

I got it to slice Stretchlet1 properly and print in a continuous line as designed... but my extruder calibration is driving me nuts. It printed OK (protip: don't add a brim like with pretty much every other print... it's a pain to remove), but the extrusion width was too narrow to make it very strong. Here's what I used:

Height: 0.3mm
Perimeters: 1
Generate extra perimeters when needed: DISABLED
Solid layers: 0
Fill density: 0
Advanced -
&
gt; Extrusion width -
&
gt; Default: 0.4mm (I think this is the key)

RockstarAlchemist on Aug 16, 2012 said:

rolfsnolf, did you ever get this to print?

emmett on Jun 19, 2012 said:

I'm not surprised it had trouble with stretchlet.stl; stretchlet1.stl is a much better bet. And each cross-section does indeed look like a circle with triangles attached; if you print only the perimeter (as per the instructions), that forms a crooked line. So it sounds like it's working; post a pic if I'm wrong.

laird on May 28, 2012 said:

Just printed a bunch of these - I'll upload pics shortly. They're great - they print fast, don't use much plastic, and are the first thing my daughters have been interested in from the Replicator. Thanks.

Since others are talking about how to print it, I'll say that for me printing was easy - I just made 'perimeter' profile, with the 'fill' module turned off, printed with 0% infill, and it came out fine. I've printed in "gold" and "silver" so far, and trying PLA next.

TechShopJim on Mar 4, 2012 said:

Dale Dougherty (founder of Make) brought one of thse to the panel that he and I spoke at this past week in Washington DC, and now I want to print one but I'm having problems.

Are you guys using ReplicatorG to print these?

I'm using ReplicatorG on a Mac under Lion to print to a TOM.

I have tried the settings you recommend:

Object Infill (%) = 0%
Layer Height (mm) = 0.3
Number of Shells = 0
Feedrate (mm/s) = Anything

It tris to build the model as a big solid.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!

emmett on Mar 4, 2012 said:

Awesome. You'll have to dig a little deeper than Print-O-Matic settings. It's not enough to put infill at zero %; you have to turn off the fill plugin entirely (so it doesn't make the top and bottom surfaces). In ReplicatorG, go to the Gcode menu -
&
gt; Edit base profiles. I make a new profile called Perimeter for these kinds of prints. In that profile, go to Fill and uncheck the "use infill" box at the top. When you create your Gcode, just select your Perimeter profile.

wes on Dec 3, 2011 said:

Thanks, this is great - as others have been mentioning it really opens up the door to other unique functional applications.

BenRockhold on Dec 2, 2011 said:

These might make nice tank tracks!

Very cool as intended bracelet too, of course. Excellent work.

emmett on Dec 2, 2011 said:

Thanks, that's a cool idea. I'd love to see a tank track derivative of this. Shouldn't be too hard...

charlespax on Nov 30, 2011 said:

I believe there is a thing out there for each person, which when seen will make that person under stand the power of the MakerBot. This is one of those things for many people.

Jexyo on Dec 21, 2011 said:

Or, instead of using MakerBot, you could get a H-1 from SeeMeCNC for only $450 assembled. It's a much better product regardless. Everything is made of Stainless Steal and Glass-Filled Nylon. the thing is basically indestructible.

north90ty on Nov 15, 2011 said:

Made one as a first object with a new hot-end i designed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Great design! Thanks a lot!

emmett on Nov 15, 2011 said:

Awesome, it looks like your new hot-end did a good job. I'm glad I finally made a sufficiently simple object to be used as a test print.

nycdesigner on Nov 12, 2011 said:

Red is ABS; yellow is PLA. Both work well.

Thx for the great design. Can you please make one without the cabled ribbing? And maybe another with ribbing that's horizontal rather than angled?

emmett on Nov 12, 2011 said:

Thanks for the pix; that's great that it works with PLA too. The OpenSCAD script is pretty simple; there's a module called base that defines the outside shape. It should be pretty simple to replace that with any other cylindrical-ish shape you desire. I'd love to see customized versions.

MakerBlock on Nov 12, 2011 said:

Oh, this is cool...

SayNoToMakerbot on Nov 12, 2011 said:

You don't set the infill to zero and extra shells to zero. You actually just turn off infill. Just uncheck it and it will only make the perimeter.

gpvillamil on Jan 12, 2012 said:

When I do this, it doesn't print. The head moves in the right way, but no plastic is extruded.

msmollin on Nov 13, 2011 said:

That's SF's Fill Plugin, right? Just uncheck the box up at the top that says "Enable Fill"

emmett on Nov 12, 2011 said:

Thanks, that sounds like a simpler method.

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