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Ghostbusters Ghost Trap (1984)

by countspatula, published

Ghostbusters Ghost Trap (1984) by countspatula Mar 9, 2016

Thing Info

16641Views 3349Downloads Found in Props
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Update 3-27

  • Printing Guide updated to v6 - includes notes on Ultimaker 2 and 2+.
  • Various small corrections and tweaks.

Update 3-23

Update 3-20

  • Printing Guide updated to v5. Includes print bed size.
  • Uploaded fixed 'side_LT_rod_FULL_x2.STL' now with holes. Accidentally uploaded the pre-booled version last time.

Update 3-17

  • Uploaded 'top_frame_dual_outlets.stl' - alternate version of top that has smoke outlets on inside AND outside of ring to allow trap to smoke better when closed. Should print fine but untested with smoke.

Update 3-11

  • Getting questions concerning the scale of parts. Most slicers expect metric so parts have been exported in mm. To help confirm scale, I have uploaded cube_1_inch.stl and cube_20mm.stl. Depending on what system you are using, load one of these cubes with the parts and confirm if it is 1" or 20mm. If so, all the parts should be at proper scale.
  • Printing guide has been updated to v2. Fixes made and exploded diagrams added.

This Ghost Trap is over 58 parts designed to be fully 3D printed except for the screws that hold it all together. The trap can also accommodate electronics for lights, sound, door mechanics and smoke. The first two gallery pictures show a Deluxe trap with as much real hardware as possible.

The Trap Pedal is also available to print:

A complete list of hardware needed for a Standard trap is included in the downloads. You can also get all hardware and Deluxe upgrade parts directly from me: https://www.etsy.com/shop/CharlesworthDynamics

This is a hybrid between the GB1 & GB2 traps - overall size, screw placement and knobs are GB2, the protruding cartridge is GB1. I modeled the trap starting with excellent plans from Sean Bishop and Stefan Otto from www.gbfans.com. From there I made further modifications based on my own research and an abundance of photo reference.

While the trap is fully printable, it was designed based on real parts whenever possible so they can be swapped out as an upgrade. For example, 1/16" aluminum plates can be swapped out by using the 3D printed ones as a template.

I will be publishing an electronics guide in the near future - updates via Twitter and Etsy: https://twitter.com/CworthDynamics

To learn more about how the Trap was designed and built, see me on Tested.com:

Print Settings


You will need a print bed that can accommodate up to 8.8" W x 4" D. The original was fully printed on the Dremel Idea Builder. All files have been run through mesh repair and are ready to print. They are oriented for optimal print quality. I'm not providing print settings since it can vary wildly from printer to printer. Certain parts, such as the handle and handle frame should use a higher infill for strength. Other parts, such as the foster connectors benefit from slower speeds. A hardware list and print guidelines are included in the download. SPECIAL ULTIMAKER NOTE: The side panels and bottom frame JUST fit on the print bed. In order to print you have to open Expert Settings > Skirt > Line Count and set it to 0. The part should be placed going left to right and nudged as far left as it will go. It's been recently discovered that due to the new fan shroud on the UM2+ the side and bottom panels can't be printed at all without swapping out fan shroud. See Comments section. Finally, have also discovered that Cura refuses to print the scribe lines (paint guides) on the top doors. MakerBot Desktop and Simplify3D print them no problem, no sure what's up with Cura - prints fine otherwise.

58+ Pieces

Demo of Deluxe Trap with electronics, door mechanism and smoke.

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Very nice work!

I started to print the trap on a smaller printer (200x200mm printbed). I had to edit a few parts in order to make them fit and I'd be happy to share those alternate versions, but since the license is "share alike" I probably need some authorization first, so... that's me asking :o)

Thanks again for the awsome work you've made countspatula!

Thanks very much.
Simply use the 'Remix It' button at the top and post your files!

May 21, 2016 - Modified May 21, 2016
LeFauve - in reply to countspatula


I'm looking forward for the electronic part documentation now ;o)

It should probably be noted that those who have upgraded to the Ultimaker 2+ will have to use the original UM2 fan shroud or print one similar (where the fans are 45 degrees instead of lying flat) and they'll also have to adjust the print bed size in their slicer of choice to the original UM2's bed size, as the UM2+ has just enough of a smaller print area that some parts (like the bottom frame) will not fit regardless of orientation.

It's an easy fix. There's lots of alternate fan shrouds for the UM2 available to print that are head-and-shoulders better than the stock one.

Still annoying. Is this true even with the Skirt set to 0?

The issue is the new fan shroud. The original has the fans at an angle while the new one has the fans sitting face-down, taking up more overall area in the XY plane. They had to shrink the X axis down in the build volume or the shroud would butt up against the interior wall of the printer.

It stays true even with the skirt set to zero. The bottom frame cannot lay flat and still fit in the build area for the UM2+ with its normal settings. Using an alternate fan shroud that angles the fans and editing the build volume in the slicer fixes the problem just fine.

So, what's everyone using for door pins? I'm thinking of cannibalizing a coat hanger, myself.

Awesome job, cant wait to finish printing it. Do you think the full side rods should have screw holes in them?

Doh! I accidentally uploaded the pre-booled version. Fixed - uploaded full version with holes.

cool, thanks

great job my friend!

OK, is it me, or are "bottom frame" & "bottom frame - motor" exactly the same? If I'm wrong, where the heck does the motor mount, er, mount?

Mar 14, 2016 - Modified Mar 14, 2016
countspatula - in reply to justkelly

Nope, motor version has a bigger hole in the back to allow screw to pass through. When using the motor mount a longer screw is used on the rear axle that goes into the mount and holds it in place. Working on assembly guides which will make it clear.

Mar 11, 2016 - Modified Mar 11, 2016

Thanks for sharing! Also, love the videos. Great stuff.

So cool, thanks for sharing!

It's sweet how the layering of the 3d printer makes it look like its made out of brushed blackened aluminium/steel.

Adds a lot of detail for no extra effort.

As you already know! Fantastic Job, Glad to see you more on tested.

Yea, I saw this on tested and thought it was awesome. I also saw your scuttle fish video and might print it.

As a fellow GBFan and prop modeler, let me just say that this is beautiful work. I cannot wait to get started on this!

just watched this on tested, awesome work.

Truly amazing work! Thank you for sharing!

Hey Sean! I'm a friend of Frank Ippolito and I have a 1:1 Slimer (cast from Steve Johnson's shop molds https://flic.kr/p/zPvEop ). I want to incorporate a trap into the base. I have some plans for electronics, but I would love to know what you did with the e-cigarettes to make the smoke!

I'll be writing an electronics guide soon and have some kits for smoke, doors, etc. Will keep everyone posted.

Nice job... Amazing work!

Hi, does this really catch ghosts?

Only 3D printed ones.