Loading

Sliding Lid RAMPS 1.4 box

by jman, published

Sliding Lid RAMPS 1.4 box by jman Nov 30, 2011

Description

I know, the last thing we need is another RAMPS box... but I wanted to put up the updated Sliding Lid Project Box, and demonstrate the new screw hole option.
I also thought it would be good to show an actual use of the parametric box.
The original box did not print the actual holes for screws, just screw blocks you could drill into. That was because I felt that printed holes were hard to get accurate, and this could lead to plastic cracking stresses. Now holes are printed as a star shaped hole, a bit like some masonry mounts. These will accept a lot of different screws and not stress out. There are now two parameters to separately specify the screw hole, and the hole in the lid.

Recent Comments

view all
For #1 I could suggest that the vents in the corners be merged into bigger holes, so the cables could all come out together leaving the rest of the vents clear. This would mean changing the following lines in HoleInEnd function as shown.

// Vent slots
endrect(3.5,7,12.9,10.2); //endrect(3.5,7,12.9,4);
endrect(18.5,7,12.9,4);
endrect(33.5,7,12.9,4);
endrect(48.5,7,12.9,10.2); //endrect(48.5,7,12.9,4);

I have never noted too much of a problem with the air flow, really, but you are right, it is ugly!

I guess the actual button on current RAMPS reset may be longer than on mine, which is tiny. The line below could be put in at line 9 of the "pbox" function (before the line with the closing "}") to make a hole, but I haven't tested it!

translate([-OutL/2+38+2,-OutW/2,OutD/2-PCB1+6]) rotate([90,0,0]) cylinder(10,3,3,center=true);
Just wanted to say that I really like this design and my print came out great. However, there are two things this box desperately needs: The first being more ~0.75in hole to allow the cables for the stepper motors and such through. Yes, you can just poke them out the grill at the front, but it really kind of ruins the aesthetic of it and just makes it look messy again, not to mention it kills any kind of decent airflow that would normally flow freely through the grill due to the cables.

The second being a small ~0.5in hole to allow access to the reset switch on the side of the RAMPS box. Without it, the reset switch is just constantly pushed due to being pressed against the wall. I ended up just drilling a hole in the side of it to allow the button to depress, but it looks like an obvious modification to the box and is thus non-ideal.
That's odd. Have you run calibration tests, like thing:63314 for example?

Liked By

view all

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Please see the original object for instructions, but really it is best to just read the OpenSCAD code if you want to fiddle.
If anyone feels something is obscure please let me know and I'll improve the comments!
With respect to the RAMPS box version, the stepper leads and other leads can come in the vent holes on the left, while the PCB stack slides in from the right, with the shield actually going in the PCB guides.
A 40mm fan bolts onto the lid, and so air flows over the stepper drivers and out the vents. You could add more vents even.
The lid has holes and vents for a standard 40mm fan, held in by four M3 16mm bolts.
Module HoleInLid has the code for this, and module HoleInEnd has the various openings for plugs, vents and cables.
I put a small strip of foam on the end section of the lid to hold the PCBs in place snugly.
I have printed the RAMPS 1.4 box components on my ToM, but on a HBP. There may not be room on the ABP.
The standard box is 90
60*35, with one pair of screw holes and two sets of PCB support. Just as an example, really.

5 days ago - Modified 5 days ago

Just wanted to say that I really like this design and my print came out great. However, there are two things this box desperately needs: The first being more ~0.75in hole to allow the cables for the stepper motors and such through. Yes, you can just poke them out the grill at the front, but it really kind of ruins the aesthetic of it and just makes it look messy again, not to mention it kills any kind of decent airflow that would normally flow freely through the grill due to the cables.

The second being a small ~0.5in hole to allow access to the reset switch on the side of the RAMPS box. Without it, the reset switch is just constantly pushed due to being pressed against the wall. I ended up just drilling a hole in the side of it to allow the button to depress, but it looks like an obvious modification to the box and is thus non-ideal.

For #1 I could suggest that the vents in the corners be merged into bigger holes, so the cables could all come out together leaving the rest of the vents clear. This would mean changing the following lines in HoleInEnd function as shown.

// Vent slots
endrect(3.5,7,12.9,10.2); //endrect(3.5,7,12.9,4);
endrect(18.5,7,12.9,4);
endrect(33.5,7,12.9,4);
endrect(48.5,7,12.9,10.2); //endrect(48.5,7,12.9,4);

I have never noted too much of a problem with the air flow, really, but you are right, it is ugly!

I guess the actual button on current RAMPS reset may be longer than on mine, which is tiny. The line below could be put in at line 9 of the "pbox" function (before the line with the closing "}") to make a hole, but I haven't tested it!

translate([-OutL/2+38+2,-OutW/2,OutD/2-PCB1+6]) rotate([90,0,0]) cylinder(10,3,3,center=true);

<p>Whoops. Didn't fit my ramps 1.4 at all.</p>

<p>That's odd. Have you run calibration tests, like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:63314 for example?</p>

Z Axis Calibration
by VeimoX

<p>The scad files don't seem to have the holes for power/usb included. Did I just miss them?</p>

jman - in reply to smolkd

<p>Hi!<br>The holes in both the lid and box parts are made through the "Sliding Lid Box" customisation routines. In particular "HoleInEnd".<br>Here is the first part of that module.</p>

<p>// Called by pbox to make any required holes in the end of the box<br>module HoleInEnd() {<br>// endround(x,y,w); // for round holes, X & Y give the centre<br>// endrect(x,y,w,d); // for rectangular holes, X & Y give the top left corner<br>endrect(38,27,24,10); // Power connector<br>endrect(43,24,2.5,4) ; // 'teeth'<br>endrect(54.5,24,2.5,4) ;<br>endrect(43,36,10,14) ; // DC socket<br>endrect(11,38,14,12); // USB connector<br>.<br>.<br>.</p>

<p>Does it not work for you?</p>

<p>Hi, </p>

<p>Awesome design!</p>

<p>Where can I find the holder of the box that is shown on the picture?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>That would be Thing 13556</p>

<p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13556&lt;/p&gt;

Electronics platform for Prusa Mendel
by jman

<p>thanks, I looked around for almost an hour on my own and couldn't find it, now I can mount my ramps more decently :)</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I'm new to this forum and found a lot of interesting project.<br>I'll like to create a plastic case for a smart camera that we designed recently.<br>I'm looking for a size 8 x 8 x 5 cm with couple of holes for cable connection. This one has a lot in common to my objective.<br>Can somebody help me?</p>

jman - in reply to cbobda

<p>I guess the devil is in the details, like where the holes actually need to go. Certainly you could use this box, and program holes in the end of the base part. Other boxes might be simpler or easier to print, if you don't need the sliding lid, or pcb slots.</p>

<p>Without holes, you could make a start with parameters like these...</p>

<p>// Outside dimensions of the box, and other structural dimensions<br>OutL = 203; // Length in mm<br>OutW = 203 ; // Width in mm<br>OutD = 50 ; // Depth in mm<br>WallT = 3;//2.1 ; // Wall thickness (mm)<br>// PCB supports are defined by the distance to the underside of the PCB, from the top external of the box.<br>// Supports for the PCB are ribs above and below<br>PCBgap = 2 ; // Slot size for PCB to slide into<br>PCB1 = 0; // Position of first PCB (0 if none)<br>PCB2 = 35; // Position of second PCB (0 if none)<br>PCB3 = 0 ; // Position of third PCB (0 if none)<br>// Screw fasteners are positioned by defining their centre<br>// They will be positioned on either side at that height.<br>Screws1 = 45 ; // Position of screws<br>Screws2 = 10; // Second set of screws</p>

<p>There's one RepRap question I don't see asked or answered enough… Where did you connect up the power to your electronics cooling fan? The build area fan is usually wired to D9, so it's not clear where to connect up a second fan on RAMPS (1.4). What was your personal solution?</p>

<p>There is a "12V-AUX" 2-pin connector on the RAMPS 1.4 board. I'm using that.</p>

<p>Great, that's what I ended up using. I had to add a 68 Ohm resistor to the fan's power line because it's only a 5V fan. The resistor turns half of the current into heat, maybe not the best solution. A 12V fan or a voltage regulator would be better. Learning as I go along!</p>

<p>Awesome! I was thinking about something like this the other night, not realizing you had already done a sliding box kinda thing.</p>

<p>The fan grill is for 40mm I hope?</p>

<p>Skeining and printing now... :-D</p>

jman - in reply to DigiFab

<p>Yup! 40mm, 16mm M3 bolts. (Instructions edited!)</p>

DigiFab - in reply to jman

<p>Well had to reprint, I had set 100mm as my soft limit in the FW and the print effed itself up with 6mm to go :'(.</p>

<p>Got caught too! Reprinted and all good! Will post when I upload my pics. What model did you use for the clips?</p>

jman - in reply to N0M4dIC

<p>The RAMPS box in the photo is mounted on one of these...</p>

<p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13556&lt;/p&gt;

<p>...with a couple of 3mm holes drilled straight through and bolts.</p>

Electronics platform for Prusa Mendel
by jman

<p>Clips?</p>

Top