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RepRap Wallace

by whosawhatsis, published

RepRap Wallace by whosawhatsis Dec 2, 2011

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License

GNU - GPL
RepRap Wallace by whosawhatsis is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Summary

This is a parametric Reprap printer based loosely on the Printrbot design. It is designed for NEMA14 motors, 6mm rods, and LM6UU bearings, though the hardware can be changed by modifying the parameters in the scad file.

The Reprap Wallace is now on github: https://github.com/whosawhatsis/RepRap-Wallace

There is a video of an axis test using Marlin on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QrEmGlZT0w&context=C3f40eeaADOEgsToPDskJ7qwV6fvNjtb93Wcpz_SHy

More documentation, pics, and video on the Reprap Wiki page: http://reprap.org/wiki/Wallace

Instructions

The best way to figure out the assembly is to open the scad file to see how the pieces are arranged. Also check out the images on this page and the wiki page to figure out how to assemble some of the trickier parts.

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Where is extruder parts??

What print settings would you recommend?

I am trying to edit the scad file for wallace and the problem is I have 1/4 threaded rod instead of M6, but still have M6 smooth rods (I have alot of 1/4 threaded that I need to use) and I thought I would edit the value to standard form by converting mm to inches. However M6 is equal to 12 and M8 is equal to 15, so I am confused as to what the value need to equal. Thank you for the help

Yeah, separating the threaded/smooth rod diameters was on my list for version 2, before I decided not to design another machine using structural threaded rod. 1/4" is 6.35mm, and because all of the smooth rods are clamped, using that value for all of your rods will probably work. Another option would be to print the files for 6mm rod and then drill the holes for threaded rod out with a 1/4" drill. The diameter should be close enough that you can run the drill backwards to ream the holes out nicely without making it dig into the plastic.

Jan 17, 2016 - Modified Jan 17, 2016

Anyone else having problems getting the linear bearings to align? I just got the bearing for the X-ends to align (my prints from months ago had alignment issues), but I can't get the upper bearings on the X-Carriage to line up... they end up binding/grinding on the rod.

A downside (arguably) of this design is that any irregularities in the printed parts used to build it, especially axes out of square, will cause problems with assembly. Check your printer for anything like this. If you find that the axes of the printer used to make the parts are not square, you should really reprint everything after fixing it, as this design can inherit these types of errors from the parent machine.

Hmm ok. Thanks for the reply!
I was thinking (because I'm printing in ABS, and the alignment is vertical) that there might be thermal warping in the X carriage... it prints and looks beautiful without supports (my printer isn't really that great with overhangs also, so it's a miracle) but I think the triangular gap (for the slot mount plate) might be curling in the narrow portion.
When I test fit the rod, I can say that I have to brute bend the triangles "apart" in order to get the rod to engage the second bearing.

And just curious... are you planning to work on a Wallace MK2? :)

Warping would do it too.

I've started several "Wallace 2" designs (the last of which was a very ambitious project to create an openscad script that could create a printer in any axis arrangement built from any materials with just a few configuration options). I did design the Bukito for Deezmaker, and I've been thinking about creating a new version of that design as a Reprap machine (Although the Bukito is supposed to be open source, the files haven't been released, which is part of the reason I left). I also have several CoreXY variants I want to build, but I haven't had the time to finish any of these projects other than the one I was getting paid to do.

The problem (aside from lack of time) is that I keep coming up with something new, either a design process or a new way to improve printer functionality that makes me want to start over so that I can use it...

Sorry to hear about Deezmaker! :-/ ...and the feature creep! hahaha.

can it be assembled with nema 17 ? can you help me ? :D
i have only nema 17 at my disposal

He's released the openSCAD files so you should be able to alter them to use NEMA17 motors...

Hey. I dont have a 3D printer and planning to make the Wallace... I was hoping to get the parts made up of wood instead of getting it printed.. i would be grateful if u cud send me the link of the 2D drawings of each part...

Hello. I am putting together a Wallace and noticed in the print2beta instructions there is a y motor mount and the gears for the extruder that is not in the Wallace 3d parts list. Can you point a link to those files?

In this version, the Y motor mounts opposite the Z motor on one of the base pieces. The extruder is not part of this design. It is intended to be used with one of the common extruder designs, such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8252http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... or another compatible one.

Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder

Another question... Just to double-check, do the MXL pulleys have 29 teeth on them?

Hey there! I have a question... I ran the Wallace.scad to calculate the rod lengths (I'm trying to create a 10x10 print area), but how do I calculate the size of the Y-carriage? Would I be correct to assume the length of the platform is the length of the Y-rods? What about the width?
Thanks!!

The recommended method is to uncomment the line that says !platform(); and do a cgal render. This will produce a 2D version of the platform design suitable for exporting as a DXF (for lasercutting, CNC routing, etc.) with all of the various holes in the right places. You could also take measurements off of this file to get all the correct dimensions for the platform, but if you just want dimensions for manual cutting, echo out the value of the variable "platform_screw_spacing" to get the spacing of the holes for mounting the Y rods. Your Y carriage needs to be big enough to drill these holes without breaking through the edge of the board. I recommend a 10mm margin from the hole centers, which is what the DXF version will give you.

Sep 5, 2014 - Modified Sep 5, 2014
punkrockseb - in reply to whosawhatsis

I can't find !platform(); in wallace.scad. Not on the Thingiverse version nor on github.

EDIT:
!platform(); can be found in v1 branch !

Thanks... I'll try that out.
Also, I tried to use Slic3r on Plate#3, and many of the nut traps (or hex holes) ended up "half filled." The bottom half were filled solid, and the hex-shaped holes (after I removed the support material) looked like an isoceles trapezoid... Have you encountered that? Should I just print them one at a time? Leave out support?
Thanks again... :)

Might want to try the previous Slic3r version, that sounds like one of the recent bug reports on RC3.

Thanks, I'll update.
I "repaired" some parts with a drill press and tap, and reprinted one that I couldn't salvage due to warping. The X-axis motor mount prints wonderfully... no lifting, no trapezoids...
Gorgeous design, man!

Hello, please probably how many money can construction machine

Hello! I'm trying to build my very first 3D printer and a lot of this stuff is new to me.I have little to no knowledge on wiring, electronics, and pulleys. Would the Wallace RepRap be a good place to start?

In that case, I would strongly recommend going with a kit printer rather than one that you would have to self-source like the Wallace. Look here for the printers I've been designing more recently: http://deezmaker.com/store/http://deezmaker.com/store/

hi i have a problema attempt to get my 3d printer started, im using macht 3 whith the g code (from stl format) and theres a code i dont undestand G1 F1800.000 E-1.0000 where the program stops, i hope you can help me

That code means retract the filament by 1mm at 1800mm/min.

In that pic, is there some Bowden-ish feeding sleeve around your filament leading into your geared extruder?

My PLA seems brittle and maybe guiding it through a sleeve might prevent the snaps that happen if I don't carefully position the feed while leaving it sit.

.17" ID HDPE tubing is dirt-cheap and works nicely for guiding the filament into the extruder and keeping it from pulling on the extruder when it goes taught.

Thanks. That's something I didn't know I needed.

If you are downloading it from GitHub, you might try the v1 branch of the files, which can show the assembly better, does the build-volume/rod calculations, and should be even more amenable to parametric modifications:

git clone -b v1 https://github.com/whosawhatsis/RepRap-Wallace.githttps://github.com/whosawhatsi...

This is a great design and I plan to make one next, do you have a plate with the fourth quadrant filled now with your extruder?

Or will this remain empty for now?

Cheers

Remaining empty for now.

This is a really brilliant design that minimizes vitamins as well as plastic parts.

I printed this in transluscent PLA except for the extruder and a few parts I re-printed after starting another ABS project: pulleys, and y idler because I wasn't satisfied with my first prints.

Everything on this page worked nicely except the MXL pulleys for me. My MXL belts were 1/4 inch wide and didn't quite seat flat. Just made them a little taller and they fit to perfection. After printing them I only had to clean up a few of the valleys between the teeth and a couple of teeth tha
t had extra material on them. The opaque ABS was much easier to clean up because I could visually detect small imperfections better than in the almost christiline PLA ones.

I also shimmed the Z leadscrews nuts into the couplers with a couple sheets of plastic film to take out a tiny amount of
backlash i noticed, but since we only print in one z direction it shouldn't have mattered much anyway.

I am using all nema14 motors including the extruder with 9/47 gears. thanks Vendi for the idea to resize the wades, ( thing 18379. ) I also changed it to use 1.75mm filament.

I am using cheap
linear LM6UU's from china, 2 of the 12 I got didn't roll all that smoothly and 2 more had they had plastic thread trash inside that had to be removed. I ended up with the 11 I needed working well enough after gitting rid of some trash in the ball bearings that "finally" blew out with multiple appli
cations of canned air.

I do have a few questions, has anyone considered the optimal location for mechanical endstops? and how about mounting the Sanguinololu and routing wires neatly so they don't tangle?

I have my electronics mounted to a leg under the bed for now but the wires are a little to
o point to point and messy, I am afraid to move it around too much.

Places to mount endstops and electronics are high on my list, but I havent been getting a lot done on this recently.

That was a brilliant idea, Xendi. Here's my take on the extruder. It took a little more to get it working just right, and even more so after I tried the 9/47 gears. I'll post a derivative at some point but for now you can read more here: http://hardwired.cchttp://hardwired.cc

Whosawhatsis, this is a brilliant design. I've got everything printed and am waiting on a few more parts to assemble it. I had to muck about with the x-carriage to get the wades to fit with a short MakerGear nozzle but I think it will work nicely. I'll post more when I have a chance.

Very clever design, thanks so much!

Works very well with ACME rod
&
amp; printed ACME thread nuts. I also modified http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... to use NEMA14 motors, and regular Wade's gears which gives decent extrusion, although I haven't run it above 30mm/s yet.

Printed linear bearings (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16813)http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... are great, modified for 1/4" rods.

Next time I'd print the X ends in ABS, as the PLA has cracked a little around the bolts.

The Y idler bearings do have a tendency to pop off the 623 bearings - anyone got a solution for that?

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears
Printable LM8UU bushing v3

Cool! You should definitely post your modified extruder as a derivative, I'd like to try it.

About the idlers, they shouldn't be able to pop off. Are you using the single-bearing or the double-bearing version? The double-bearing version is definitely better.

As to the bearings, it has the single idlers right now, as in your rendering here.

Wasn't sure how to fit the double bearing under the platform; we're using regular-size XL pulleys scavenged from an older bot.

All of my pictures use the double-bearing idlers except for the outdated picture of the undercarriage that just uses bearings with fender washers. Is that how you assembled it? It's meant to be used with the printed crowned idler pulleys, which should make it impossible for the belt to slip off, especially if you use the double-bearing version.

At the moment it looks exactly as in http://www.thingiverse.com/image:101021http://www.thingiverse.com/ima....

The problem is not the belt slipping off, the crowned idler itself pops off under tension. The pressfit of the bearing feels tight, but apparently not quite enough.

It can't pop off if it is assembled correctly. Unlike printrbot, there are no press-fits in Wallace. All parts are clamped or captive. Did you print "idler single-bearing.stl" or "idler double-bearing.stl"? "idler double-bearing" is shown in that picture, and you NEED two 623 bearings to assemble it. If you want to try to run with only one bearing per idler (not recommended), you have to print "idler single-bearing.stl" instead. In that version, the printed idler pulley is captive between the bearing and the Y idler piece (you will need a couple of extra nuts and/or washers for clearance). The "idler double-bearing.stl" part was never designed to be used with only one bearing, and WILL NOT work that way, as you seem to have discovered the hard way.

Yes, you're right of course. Works much better now with two bearings :) Thanks for your help!

Didn't want to post as a derivative, but here are the mods to jonahskueling's .scad file:

extra_gear_separation=0;

and

//NEMA14
nema17_hole_spacing=25.908;
nema17_width=1.4*25.4;
nema17_support_d=nema17_width-nema17_hole_spacing+2;

//NEMA17
//nema17_hole_spacing=1.225.4;
//nema17_width=1.7
25.4;
//nema17_support_d=nema17_width-nema17_hole_spacing;

Disclaimers: We specifically
asked for high-torque NEMA14s, and still the extruder motor needed so far to run a bit hot, at least with one of the extruder barrels we tried (Techzone, which needed an extension block to clear the bottom of your X-carriage, and J-head, which required 5 mm cut from the M3-25 holding the X carriage
belt clips, for the same reason). Also we haven't done any prolonged testing yet, but if the heat isn't a problem it doesn't otherwise seem to be struggling to extrude. I went with the standard-sized Greg's modified Wade's gears for size, as we made a small version of Wallace, but going back to the
9:47 gears for more torque may allow us to drop the current. Is there an option to mount sideways on the X carriage?

Hi, thanks for all your work on this.... whats your opinon on printing these parts with a raft? Is it better with one or it it preferable to not use one?..

Raftless printing is always preferable, and the base pieces (the largest parts) really need to be printed raftless to ensure proper alignment of the Y axis bearings when it's assembled. The cleanup involved in removing the raft may not leave the slots consistent enough.

Okay, Thanks for you help.... :)

Hey

Could you pleas post some pictures and/or video(s) that shows how to mount the Z smooth rods and Y belt. I have read the guide but i dont get it.

thanks

Hello, can you please tell me where do you suggest to put the endstops?

So, I'm yet to decide if I should go with this or Printrbot. Now, only main noticeable difference I see is that you use one extra threaded rod up there above it all, mounted on Z. I assume it's to stabalize even more? Printrbot doesn't seem to use/need that though. so that makes me wonder how needed it really is.

Furthermore, how did you do the plater .stl files? It doesn't seem to be possible easily through the .scad file to do that. Everything just hangs up in the air. Would be nice if that was possible there too, or if you were so kind adding plater for rod size 8 and using Nemo 17, and LM8UU bearings... Having a Prusa myself, I have more of those sizes already, so I wanted to use that.

When i got around to assemble my printed M8 version of the Wallace i noticed that the bolts that go into the x end left/right are very loose an would create alot of problems for me. The bearings fit perfectly as a pressfit, but as i said the bolts are way loose.

Any thoughts about would I've done wrong or which settings in the .scad file I've negleted to change the values of?

P.s. I've had zero problems with all the other parts where it's M3 but all M8 are loose.

It sounds suspiciously like you added a fudge factor when you changed the rod_size variable for the M8 size.

Ahh I caught the problem now i printed those pieces from an earlier .scad file. My bad.

The BOM on the wiki page says that 11 LM6UUs are required.

Is this correct as they normally come in packs of 10.

Thanks for a wonderful design.

Yeah, it really does need to be 11. I recommend buying at least 12, because they don't work very well if a couple of the balls fall out.

Please could you also provide all the files as a ZIP file, that way we will be sure we have downloaded all the parts!

I'm working on a big refactoring of the code, which should not change any of the printed parts, but will make the code easier to read and add features like rod length calculation to the scad file. When this is done, I'll be ready for an "official" release, including a zip file.

Hi are all the parts posted now as I am getting anxious about printing the Wallace to go with my Prusa, I'll be getting the M6 threaded rod this Thursday but will not start cutting the rods until the rod lengths are published!

All of the parts are posted here and are up-to-date. You can start printing any time.

On the SCAD files, do you have to change any of the params other than the ones commented for it to create usable parts?

Additionally, what extruder is this designed to use?

You shouldn't have to change anything for usable parts with the M6/LM6UU/NEMA14 configuration. For other configurations, you should only need to change the rod size and the commented variables for motor and bearing sizes.

It is designed for use with Mendel-compatible extruders. Greg's extruder is pictured, but I'm almost finished designing a new extruder that I will recommend for use with this instead.

I did wanted to print the z-top clamps for M8 and 8mm rods. I set rod_size=8 in the scad file, but when I printed the parts it did not fit. It looked as if it were for M6 and 6mm rods.

What am I missing?

Thanks.

That's all you should need. Are you sure you selected "Compile and Render (CGAL)" after changing the variable? If you did that before changing the variable, it would still export an STL with the previous setting.

I pressed F6, but I think I did that after first showing the former version when rod_size was 6.

Is it possible that former model is cached and export is rendering the former version of the object?

I am going to try it again with more care.

Thanks a lot.

misan - in reply to misan

It worked as you said, sorry for the noise.

How do you fix the y-belt to the plate? A picture please

Drill a hole and insert a screw with washers on both sides of the board and tighten a nut down to that it's rigid. Wrap the belt around the screw with the teeth facing toward the screw so that the belt meshes with its own teeth. When you clamp the two parts of the belt together with a zip tie, the teeth of the belt will hold it in place.

For those who keep asking for plates, I have added three 100mm plates and a single 200mm plate with a quadrant left empty to add an extruder. STLs are on here, and the layout SCAD file is on github. This is for the M6/LM6UU/NEMA14 version only.

What are most people printing the parts at as far as the %fill and extra shells go? Do they need to be solid or is the shells enough for support then a 20% or so fill?

3 soild layers, 3 total shells on base, 2 total on others, 15% hex fill. The base took me 1 hour 10 mins.

I should also add that the set of parts I printed were for M8/NEMA17 so they are quite a bit bigger than the standard ones.

I've been using 25% infill with 0 extra shells and 4 solid surface layers with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height. The base parts take over 4 hours to print with these settings but the quality is very good. I could probably drop the infill with little impact on the overall quality.

I print at 10% infill with 2 extra shells and four solid surface layers.

I realised once I got mine to essentially the halfway point in ABS natral/whit that I really need to print the other half in blue and call mine "Braveheart".

I'm a sucker for a good pun, and a printing pun is too awesome to resist.

"Jerks on ebay may take your credit, but they'll never take... your FREEEEEEDOM!!"

(Also, upon review I really do prefer your pseudo derivative to the original printrbot...)

First of all great work and now suddenly a new fitting name! Funny shit to boot! Keep up the Fine Free work!

Congrats on the new name - and what a great name! Very appropriate and it made me laugh.

What is with those pictures with the smaller and larger motors? Are you hanging the Y-bars beneath the top of the base? I don't see how this SCAD file does that.

When I tried the larger motors and bars edits, it looked like the base would end up suspended between the motors sitting on the table.

That picture is of the original Printrbot part next to my version for comparison.

The more I look at this design the more impressed I am. In the original printrbot the y axis stepper simply hangs off the base by the two screws; in this variant they act more like a pivot, with the inner side of the base acting as the main support. The fact that they're also used to secure the bearing clamps means less room for tolerance creep. Very clever engineering IMO.

That makes sense. Thanks.

Is the X Carriage the tallest part? I'm currently printing it and it's pushing the limits of my z height!

DaveX - in reply to MrJohn

To put a number on it, the height of the part as printed is set in the .scad file by "x_carriage_width = 70;"

How much of the various rods are used by the components and mounts? Eyeballing it, I 'd guess about 200mm on x for the x-ends and extruder, 80mm in y for the base and clamps, and maybe 230 on z for the base sockets, bed clamps, bed, extruder+hot end and top clamps.

IIRC, all of my smooth rods are 350mm (maybe a closer to 320mm on the Y) and the usable build volume is 200x200x170mm, give or take a few mm on each. So, more like 150mm, 120mm, and 180mm, respectively.

Of course, 8mm rods and particularly NEMA17 motors will make some of the printed parts bigger, so they will take up more of the length of the rods.

Thanks.

I added a few notes to the BOM on http://reprap.org/wiki/Wallacehttp://reprap.org/wiki/Wallace, but I'm not sure if I've understood the assembly properly.

Yeah, I need to redo that whole section one of these days. Several parts have been added since that was written, and I don't think it was even functional at that point.

Yes, X is the tallest. I just printed a full set and it almost exceeded my limits as well. Whosawhatis: I'd recommend one small change with this part, adding a bit more plastic around the M4 holes for the extruder. There isn't much room for error there at the moment and poorly calibrated machines might have problems.

I had about 10mm left! whew! That was close. The z rod stabilizers I have take a bit off the top! I'll be looking forward to the Wallace's expandable axes, including the z. I made a video while I was printing....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4eLM9esD0whttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

How does the y belt mount? I don't see a belt clamp in any photos so far.

Awesome design! Any chance of starting a forum for Dawkins on the RepRap Wiki? I've just started a build and I have a couple of questions: 1) what's the advantage of using the idler bearing retainers over, say, a single 624 bearing with washers on either side? 2) how does the Y belt attach to the bed? The printrbot uses RP but I can't really tell from the photo what you're doing...just wrapping it round an M3 bolt?

Btw, after FINALLY getting a response from Adrian Bowyer after the change was made, the Dawkins name is out. Nothing to see here, move along.

So it's officially the Wallace?

As official as anything gets in the RepRap project.

The fixed washers can cause a lot of friction. My pulleys not only have a moving wall to keep the belt from ever slipping off while minimizing friction, but they are crowned so that the belt will self-center and should never even touch the wall during normal operation.

That's right, the belt wraps around an M3 bolt and meshes with its own teeth, and a zip tie is used to secure it.

Just a quick follow-up to this...what's the difference between using the double bearing idlers over single bearing? Just makes for a more sturdy design? Also I'm thinking about adding a parameter to the scad so I can use 624s in future, was there any specific reason you chose 623s?

The double bearing configuration is a lot more stable. The single bearing pulley doesn't align as well, so the self-centering feature may not work, and the belt will likely ride the wall the whole time.

I used 623s because they have a 3mm bore. The machine is designed to use M3 hardware, and I didn't want to add a bunch of M4 parts to the BOM. It's bad enough that I needed to use M4 holes for compatibility with extruders designed for a Mendel.

I noticed in scad file that the first line is rod size=6. Should I change that when using m8 rods?

That's what the parameter is there for. You'll also want to change the parameters for the bearings. The comments in the scad file give you the measurements for LM8UU bearings.

It looks like if there were any stability problems, one could turn this into a stiff Mendel90-ish thing by printing 2 extra bases and shimming and bolting them through the feet-holes against an MDF frame like in http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/12/mendel90.htmlhttp://hydraraptor.blogspot.co...

If you added a 1mm pilot hole though the base z-bar sockets and x-end x-bar sockets, one could later drill them out for rod replacement without de-bolting.

How are the MXL pulleys working out?

On https://plus.google.com/105535247347788377245/posts/gfBP31YwGrnhttps://plus.google.com/105535... I saw that its a 29 tooth pulley and works with MXL or GT2, the SCAD file is in the github (as https://github.com/whosawhatsis/printrbot-variant/blob/master/pulley+with+collar.scadhttps://github.com/whosawhatsi... ).

When I run the SCAD file, it echos:

ECHO: "te
eth:", 29
ECHO: "thread width (1 shell):", 0.435
ECHO: "thread width (2 shells):", 0.2175
ECHO: "thread width (3 shells):", 0.145

I suppose that to print this part well you'd need to set that thread width carefully.

They work great!

I did design them with a specific thread width in mind. I used .29mm layers with a w/t of 1.5, for a thread width of .435mm (these settings also put out plastic at the perfect rate to minimize warping of ABS with a .4mm nozzle). The teeth are exactly two threads wide, so you can print with multipl
e shells for strength and they won't come out hollow the way T5/XL belt pulleys often do. The echos for 2 and 3 shells where for future modifications, to make pulleys for other belt pitches (or with super-high-resolution printers).

I assumed when designing them that the teeth would not print at all
with a thread width larger than .435mm, but I've received a report that they work just fine when sliced with a larger thread width (.45mm, IIRC), at least with SF44+.

Cool. That pulley is useful enough by itself that it might deserve its own thing page.

Thanks.

That was my intention. I actually designed it as part of another project that's much less complete and brought it into this because it worked so well. I intended to release it as a separate thing after coming up with parameters to use it with different types of belts, but I haven't worked on it for some time.

Thanks for the help I managed to figure it out with some help from the IRC.

I went with the nema 17 and m8 version. I sliced it with 20% fill and 1 extra shell.

Estimated build time 7.9 hrs real cost $4.90 per printrbot!=-O

If this thing makes half decent prints it a good deal. Too bad the "official" plastic parts are valued at $79. :'(

I could, in theory, make 13 from
one 5 lb spool. Sell them for $10 each and buy two spools, rinse, repeat until the demand drops out. 8-)

Most people don't know how to use open scad.

For an end-user, you basically only need to know these steps:

  • Open .scad file
  • Press F6 to build model
  • Choose "export as stl" from the design menu

Easier than most CAD packages... Most scripts contains detailed instructions on how to modify the model.

It would of course require some more research if you want to write your own code from scratch...

Thanks for that walk through.

Can someone explain how the Y axis belt hooks into idler and attaches to the bed? Even a picture of the underside of a functioning one would be insanely helpful ;)

http://www.thingiverse.com/image:101021http://www.thingiverse.com/ima...

http://www.thingiverse.com/image:101024http://www.thingiverse.com/ima...

The belt mounts are really simple. A screw goes through the Y stage and sticks out the bottom. The belt is wrapped around the screw so that it meshes with its own teeth, an a zip-tie goes around to secure the belt to itself.

Thanks so much. That makes a lot more sense. :-D

I'm using your x-ends and x-carriage on a printer variant I'm making, and they really look good. But my printer is so small that I really see the need for either a custom extruder or for turning the extruder 90 degrees. So looking forward to the custom extruder :) ... I've attached a picture of my bot from above.

wow, that is tiny. What's your usable length on that X axis, about 50mm?

:) about 75mm right now. My aim was about 120mm. The printer itself is 250mm wide (not considering the x-stapper which is outside the base-frame). I sort of wanted to see how small it could get. My Makerbot has 10 cm x 10 xm print area, and for most things I'm happy with that. There are probably various optimizations that could be done to almost reach 12 x 180 cm on this one. I used NEMA 17 for the z-axis, so might have saved a bit of space going for nema 14.

I put my files up on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15611http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... Maybe I should have marked it as a derivative, but I do give you a lot of credit at least, which you deserve. The base is not based on your design, but the top parts are made using your scripts. Thanks.

Alu reprap
by larsie

will you make a nema 17 model ?

If you check the SCAD file, you will see there are alternate settings in it for nema17 motors. The design is parametric, which means there are a lot of options to build it with different hardware. Until the design stops changing so much or I find an easier way to produce all of the STL files every time the design is updated, I'm not going to produce multiple STL distributions for the different hardware options, but you can always produce your own STLs from the SCAD file.

You can autogenerate the STL files with make, per http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environmenthttp://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/O...

You'd turn your commented lines into module whatsis() { // make me ...
then the makefile should generate some small .scad files and .stl files.

I had to modify the makefile for my mac to call out the opencsad binary, modify the sed, and drop the -n from the echo line.

so including nema 17 what changes you suggest to scad file.

The scad file has comments in it about which values to use for Nema17 and also 8mm rods if you prefer that.

This looks awesome and I'm considering building one similar. I'm curious why you went with 6mm rods. My current and only printer is a prusa. I'd like my next build to be an advance in print quality and possibly build volume.

Do the 6mm rods provide enough support to maintain accuracy on tall prints? And, what is your Z length?

For my current build, I've got about 170mm available for building, though the rod lengths can easily be varied for a different size. I haven't had a chance to really put the machine through its paces, so I'm not sure if there are any stability issues left to fix. The X and Y axes are definitely stable at with 6mm rods, though it's possible that I'll want to switch to 8mm for the Z axis.

Possible to do nema17 and 608 bearings? I have an abundance of these around...

Nema 17 can be done, there are alternate settings for it in the scad file. 608 bearings are radial bearings. The axes in this need linear bearings, so they won't work. It would probably be possible to modify it to use 608 bearings instead of the 623 bearings in the idler pulleys, but it wouldn't be easy, and would require more types of non-printable parts.

I made these up for 608 idlers. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15290http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Are the smooth Z bar mounts just push fit or do I have to drill holes in them?

Parametric Printrbot 608 bearing Idler's

I thought the assembly was pretty straight-forward, but you're not the first to have trouble understanding it.

First, you put the nut into the hole on the Z motor side. Push it all the way through so that you can't see it when you look down the hole for the X rod. Take a 10mm screw and screw it partially into the nut from the other side. If you can see the end of the screw when looking down the Z rod hole,
back it out until you can't. Insert the X rod, then tighten down the screws to clamp the rod in place.

Thanks for info, I'm going to try Triffid's printed lm8uu's on the build. I'll post pics in a few weeks hopefully.

I'm looking at swapping the threaded rod and the smooth rod, so that the smooth rod is on the outside. It hides the z-axis motors, which seems a bit nicer. Is that simple to change in your design for the x-end left and right?

I also wonder if it'd be possible to make an even more compact x-end with the stepper in the middle or something, but maybe that's not easily done. Maybe it's better the way you have it.

That would be a trivial change for the X ends, but significantly more complicated for the base.

I wanted to put the X motor in the middle of the end part at first too, but it would have required a MUCH larger spacing between the two rods.

Here is what I'd like to do: http://www.thingiverse.com/image:95169http://www.thingiverse.com/ima...

Having the two motors driving the z-axis on inside, and the smooth rod on the outside. It makes the print area larger (slightly), but also requires more plastic. I haven't printed the one on the image yet, but I'm making an aluminium one instead. The spacing between the smooth rod (8mm) and the th
readed rod (M8) is 27mm. Any chance you could implement a possibility to swap the position of the smooth and threaded rod for the z-axis? I've tried to do it myself, but I'm not so good at scad.

I just need the x-ends that is... not the base etc.

I don't see how it will increase the build area. If anything, it should decrease it a bit because you have to worry about clearance between the leadscrew couplers and the platform. Here's the code for the X ends with the smooth and threaded rods reversed: http://pastebin.com/P0PCVj6dhttp://pastebin.com/P0PCVj6d

Hmmm... Maybe you are right... Didnt think about the coupler...

Is the y build area maybe more dependent on the y carriage width? Would it make sense turning the extruder 90 degrees? And making the carriage less wide? Would it be stable enough? Thanks for the alteration...

Sorry. I of course meant X-build area, X-axis and X-carriage.

Sorry for spamming you here :-) ... I wonder if the stepper could be placed on the side, like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/image:96329http://www.thingiverse.com/ima... Maybe not good for balance?

Not great for balance, but probably not enough so to be problematic. It would mean that the idler would also have to be reoriented, which means more hardware because my idea to use the idler with the same screw that clamps the bearings in place won't work. It would also take up more space on the build platform to print.

I think you meant X carriage, that's the one that carries the extruder. I thought about mounting the extruder the other way and decided against it. Don't recall exactly why at the moment, but there was a reason. Anywho, I'm going to design an extruder that takes up less space and is built into the
carriage (actually, at least two extruders, geared and direct-drive, configurable in the parameters), and this will allow for a narrower carriage.

Even if there is no change in the usable build area, the spacing between the print bed and the leadscrew coupler affects a whole chain of things, the u
pshot of which means larger printed parts, taking more plastic, more time, and more total printbed area to produce.

I've tried to design a more portable version, with the possibility of lifting the print bed. It's on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14662http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ... it's not a derivative of your design, but for many of the components, if I end up printing it, I'd use your components I think. The lower parts are different, but the z-axis I would choose from you, I think.

Are your NEMA14s strong enough? I'd like to use that too.

Portable, collapsible reprap
by larsie

The 20 oz*in NEMA14 I use (from Pololu) have more than enough torque. They meet the requirements for a full-sized Mendel, and my parts are much lighter.

I'll eventually get rid of the printrbot-style Y axis and replace it with another design I've been playing with for some time. This design will make the Y platform removable so that the machine can be made flat.

I'm thinking about your design, which I like.

However, I'm thinking on making one motor side supports (only for z-axis steppers) and putting the y-axis motor horizontal in a support in the center that doubles as Y idler (that now will have the belt horizontal too).

Are you working in that direction for the evolution of your y-axis?

Happy N
ew Year 8-)

I've given that a lot of thought, and if I were starting now from scratch, I might very well design it that way. I don't want to do that right now because I'm already planning to scrap the Y axis for a completely different design, though that is closer to what I have in mind, and I may end up building that as an optional configuration.

I think making it portable is a good thing. Looking forward to seeing your design as it proceeds. I like your z-axis also.

I like the update, also, it puts the strong direction of the print the direction where it will be most needed.

It's where it's needed most if the carriage and the extruder mount are one piece. With the two bolted together as I was planning before, it probably would have been stronger overall, but if you really need strength along the length of the carriage, you probably have bigger problems...

Are you planning on using M8 threaded rod for the Z axis?

My code is currently only set up for one rod size (for smooth rod, structural threaded rod, and leadscrews), though the size of the leadscrew nuts are a separate variable, so changing that to the size of an M8 nut would probably work. I'm thinking of changing this so that you can use beefier rods for the Z axis than the other two, and I could probably allow some other variation too.

Makes sense. Good thing I have some lm8uus here also.

How is the snapfit for the linear bearings? and why is the hex tunnel open on for the z rod?

The hex tunnel is open for simple assembly/disassembly, and also to avoid an unnecessary bridge that might be challenging for poorly-calibrated machines.

I just did a test print of one of the X ends and the bearing press-fits seemed to work until I tried to use a heat gun to make them a little tighter. The crappy plastic that I'm currently using snapped, and the press-fits for the rods started to delaminate when I tried to insert them. The hex channel for the nut works really well, but I'm going to have to re-think the whole part to get rid of these issue... either redesign it to print in a different orientation or add some vitamin fasteners to replace the press-fits, maybe both.

Well, a completely new design for the X carriage came to me last night at work, hopefully the same will happen for the X ends tonight!

Good luck

Posted. In fact, all of the files are updated, with at least a few tweaks in every part.

If done right, a press fit can work well for linear bearings (I haven't tested these ones, but I've got an unrelated experimental part using it) but I'm trying to remove them in favor of something more robust. I'm about to upload an update replaces the X carriage with one that doesn't use press fits.

Thanks for sharing!

Niiiice! I like the way you made the blocks and bearing mounts. I was thinking 14's would be better for this design anyway. Now if you just had a simpler extruder...

A custom extruder is on the list, along with a completely new design for the Y axis (one I've been thinking about for a LONG time, but never got around to implementing). I wanted to get a working version as soon as possible, so I decided to just give it a mounting point for a standard mendel extruder.

Im sitting here at the moment working on a new bowden style extruder possibly for an emaker-ish huxley. I wanted something very small and that would work with a gearhead stepper. Not done yet and am already thinking of adapting to the printrbot style machine. All in time. Anyway great job on the fast development.

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