RepRap Wallace
Description
The Reprap Wallace is now on github: github.com/whosawhatsis/RepRap-Wallace
There is a video of an axis test using Marlin on youtube: youtube.com/watch?v=0QrEmGlZT0w&context=C3f40eeaADOEgsToPDskJ7qwV6fvNjtb93W cpz_SHy
More documentation, pics, and video on the Reprap Wiki page: reprap.org/wiki/Wallace
Instructions
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In that pic, is there some Bowden-ish feeding sleeve around your filament leading into your geared extruder?
My PLA seems brittle and maybe guiding it through a sleeve might prevent the snaps that happen if I don't carefully position the feed while leaving it sit.
If you are downloading it from GitHub, you might try the v1 branch of the files, which can show the assembly better, does the build-volume/rod calculations, and should be even more amenable to parametric modifications:
git clone -b v1 https://github.com/whosawhatsi...
This is a great design and I plan to make one next, do you have a plate with the fourth quadrant filled now with your extruder?
Or will this remain empty for now?
Cheers
This is a really brilliant design that minimizes vitamins as well as plastic parts.
I printed this in transluscent PLA except for the extruder and a few parts I re-printed after starting another ABS project: pulleys, and y idler because I wasn't satisfied with my first prints.
Everything on this page worked nicely except the MXL pulleys for me. My MXL belts were 1/4 inch wide and didn't quite seat flat. Just made them a little taller and they fit to perfection. After printing them I only had to clean up a few of the valleys between the teeth and a couple of teeth tha
t had extra material on them. The opaque ABS was much easier to clean up because I could visually detect small imperfections better than in the almost christiline PLA ones.
I also shimmed the Z leadscrews nuts into the couplers with a couple sheets of plastic film to take out a tiny amount of
backlash i noticed, but since we only print in one z direction it shouldn't have mattered much anyway.
I am using all nema14 motors including the extruder with 9/47 gears. thanks Vendi for the idea to resize the wades, ( thing 18379. ) I also changed it to use 1.75mm filament.
I am using cheap
linear LM6UU's from china, 2 of the 12 I got didn't roll all that smoothly and 2 more had they had plastic thread trash inside that had to be removed. I ended up with the 11 I needed working well enough after gitting rid of some trash in the ball bearings that "finally" blew out with multiple appli
cations of canned air.
I do have a few questions, has anyone considered the optimal location for mechanical endstops? and how about mounting the Sanguinololu and routing wires neatly so they don't tangle?
I have my electronics mounted to a leg under the bed for now but the wires are a little to
o point to point and messy, I am afraid to move it around too much.
That was a brilliant idea, Xendi. Here's my take on the extruder. It took a little more to get it working just right, and even more so after I tried the 9/47 gears. I'll post a derivative at some point but for now you can read more here: http://hardwired.cc
Whosawhatsis, this is a brilliant design. I've got everything printed and am waiting on a few more parts to assemble it. I had to muck about with the x-carriage to get the wades to fit with a short MakerGear nozzle but I think it will work nicely. I'll post more when I have a chance.
Very clever design, thanks so much!
Works very well with ACME rod
&
amp; printed ACME thread nuts. I also modified http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... to use NEMA14 motors, and regular Wade's gears which gives decent extrusion, although I haven't run it above 30mm/s yet.
Printed linear bearings (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... are great, modified for 1/4" rods.
Next time I'd print the X ends in ABS, as the PLA has cracked a little around the bolts.
The Y idler bearings do have a tendency to pop off the 623 bearings - anyone got a solution for that?
Hi, thanks for all your work on this.... whats your opinon on printing these parts with a raft? Is it better with one or it it preferable to not use one?..
Raftless printing is always preferable, and the base pieces (the largest parts) really need to be printed raftless to ensure proper alignment of the Y axis bearings when it's assembled. The cleanup involved in removing the raft may not leave the slots consistent enough.
Hey
Could you pleas post some pictures and/or video(s) that shows how to mount the Z smooth rods and Y belt. I have read the guide but i dont get it.
thanks
Hello, can you please tell me where do you suggest to put the endstops?
So, I'm yet to decide if I should go with this or Printrbot. Now, only main noticeable difference I see is that you use one extra threaded rod up there above it all, mounted on Z. I assume it's to stabalize even more? Printrbot doesn't seem to use/need that though. so that makes me wonder how needed it really is.
Furthermore, how did you do the plater .stl files? It doesn't seem to be possible easily through the .scad file to do that. Everything just hangs up in the air. Would be nice if that was possible there too, or if you were so kind adding plater for rod size 8 and using Nemo 17, and LM8UU bearings... Having a Prusa myself, I have more of those sizes already, so I wanted to use that.
When i got around to assemble my printed M8 version of the Wallace i noticed that the bolts that go into the x end left/right are very loose an would create alot of problems for me. The bearings fit perfectly as a pressfit, but as i said the bolts are way loose.
Any thoughts about would I've done wrong or which settings in the .scad file I've negleted to change the values of?
P.s. I've had zero problems with all the other parts where it's M3 but all M8 are loose.
The BOM on the wiki page says that 11 LM6UUs are required.
Is this correct as they normally come in packs of 10.
Thanks for a wonderful design.
Please could you also provide all the files as a ZIP file, that way we will be sure we have downloaded all the parts!
I'm working on a big refactoring of the code, which should not change any of the printed parts, but will make the code easier to read and add features like rod length calculation to the scad file. When this is done, I'll be ready for an "official" release, including a zip file.
Hi are all the parts posted now as I am getting anxious about printing the Wallace to go with my Prusa, I'll be getting the M6 threaded rod this Thursday but will not start cutting the rods until the rod lengths are published!
On the SCAD files, do you have to change any of the params other than the ones commented for it to create usable parts?
I did wanted to print the z-top clamps for M8 and 8mm rods. I set rod_size=8 in the scad file, but when I printed the parts it did not fit. It looked as if it were for M6 and 6mm rods.
What am I missing?
Thanks.
How do you fix the y-belt to the plate? A picture please
Drill a hole and insert a screw with washers on both sides of the board and tighten a nut down to that it's rigid. Wrap the belt around the screw with the teeth facing toward the screw so that the belt meshes with its own teeth. When you clamp the two parts of the belt together with a zip tie, the teeth of the belt will hold it in place.
For those who keep asking for plates, I have added three 100mm plates and a single 200mm plate with a quadrant left empty to add an extruder. STLs are on here, and the layout SCAD file is on github. This is for the M6/LM6UU/NEMA14 version only.
What are most people printing the parts at as far as the %fill and extra shells go? Do they need to be solid or is the shells enough for support then a 20% or so fill?
3 soild layers, 3 total shells on base, 2 total on others, 15% hex fill. The base took me 1 hour 10 mins.
I've been using 25% infill with 0 extra shells and 4 solid surface layers with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height. The base parts take over 4 hours to print with these settings but the quality is very good. I could probably drop the infill with little impact on the overall quality.
I print at 10% infill with 2 extra shells and four solid surface layers.
I realised once I got mine to essentially the halfway point in ABS natral/whit that I really need to print the other half in blue and call mine "Braveheart".
I'm a sucker for a good pun, and a printing pun is too awesome to resist.
"Jerks on ebay may take your credit, but they'll never take... your FREEEEEEDOM!!"
(Also, upon review I really do prefer your pseudo derivative to the original printrbot...)
First of all great work and now suddenly a new fitting name! Funny shit to boot! Keep up the Fine Free work!
Congrats on the new name - and what a great name! Very appropriate and it made me laugh.
What is with those pictures with the smaller and larger motors? Are you hanging the Y-bars beneath the top of the base? I don't see how this SCAD file does that.
When I tried the larger motors and bars edits, it looked like the base would end up suspended between the motors sitting on the table.
Is the X Carriage the tallest part? I'm currently printing it and it's pushing the limits of my z height!
To put a number on it, the height of the part as printed is set in the .scad file by "x_carriage_width = 70;"
How much of the various rods are used by the components and mounts? Eyeballing it, I 'd guess about 200mm on x for the x-ends and extruder, 80mm in y for the base and clamps, and maybe 230 on z for the base sockets, bed clamps, bed, extruder+hot end and top clamps.
Yes, X is the tallest. I just printed a full set and it almost exceeded my limits as well. Whosawhatis: I'd recommend one small change with this part, adding a bit more plastic around the M4 holes for the extruder. There isn't much room for error there at the moment and poorly calibrated machines might have problems.
How does the y belt mount? I don't see a belt clamp in any photos so far.
Awesome design! Any chance of starting a forum for Dawkins on the RepRap Wiki? I've just started a build and I have a couple of questions: 1) what's the advantage of using the idler bearing retainers over, say, a single 624 bearing with washers on either side? 2) how does the Y belt attach to the bed? The printrbot uses RP but I can't really tell from the photo what you're doing...just wrapping it round an M3 bolt?
Btw, after FINALLY getting a response from Adrian Bowyer after the change was made, the Dawkins name is out. Nothing to see here, move along.
The fixed washers can cause a lot of friction. My pulleys not only have a moving wall to keep the belt from ever slipping off while minimizing friction, but they are crowned so that the belt will self-center and should never even touch the wall during normal operation.
That's right, the belt wraps around an M3 bolt and meshes with its own teeth, and a zip tie is used to secure it.
I noticed in scad file that the first line is rod size=6. Should I change that when using m8 rods?
It looks like if there were any stability problems, one could turn this into a stiff Mendel90-ish thing by printing 2 extra bases and shimming and bolting them through the feet-holes against an MDF frame like in http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co...
If you added a 1mm pilot hole though the base z-bar sockets and x-end x-bar sockets, one could later drill them out for rod replacement without de-bolting.
How are the MXL pulleys working out?
On https://plus.google.com/105535... I saw that its a 29 tooth pulley and works with MXL or GT2, the SCAD file is in the github (as https://github.com/whosawhatsi... ).
When I run the SCAD file, it echos:
ECHO: "te
eth:", 29
ECHO: "thread width (1 shell):", 0.435
ECHO: "thread width (2 shells):", 0.2175
ECHO: "thread width (3 shells):", 0.145
I suppose that to print this part well you'd need to set that thread width carefully.
They work great!
I did design them with a specific thread width in mind. I used .29mm layers with a w/t of 1.5, for a thread width of .435mm (these settings also put out plastic at the perfect rate to minimize warping of ABS with a .4mm nozzle). The teeth are exactly two threads wide, so you can print with multipl
e shells for strength and they won't come out hollow the way T5/XL belt pulleys often do. The echos for 2 and 3 shells where for future modifications, to make pulleys for other belt pitches (or with super-high-resolution printers).
I assumed when designing them that the teeth would not print at all
with a thread width larger than .435mm, but I've received a report that they work just fine when sliced with a larger thread width (.45mm, IIRC), at least with SF44+.
Thanks for the help I managed to figure it out with some help from the IRC.
I went with the nema 17 and m8 version. I sliced it with 20% fill and 1 extra shell.
Estimated build time 7.9 hrs real cost $4.90 per printrbot!=-O
If this thing makes half decent prints it a good deal. Too bad the "official" plastic parts are valued at $79. :'(
I could, in theory, make 13 from
one 5 lb spool. Sell them for $10 each and buy two spools, rinse, repeat until the demand drops out. 8-)
Most people don't know how to use open scad.
For an end-user, you basically only need to know these steps:
- Open .scad file
- Press F6 to build model
- Choose "export as stl" from the design menu
Easier than most CAD packages... Most scripts contains detailed instructions on how to modify the model.
It would of course require some more research if you want to write your own code from scratch...
Can someone explain how the Y axis belt hooks into idler and attaches to the bed? Even a picture of the underside of a functioning one would be insanely helpful ;)
http://www.thingiverse.com/ima...
http://www.thingiverse.com/ima...
The belt mounts are really simple. A screw goes through the Y stage and sticks out the bottom. The belt is wrapped around the screw so that it meshes with its own teeth, an a zip-tie goes around to secure the belt to itself.
I'm using your x-ends and x-carriage on a printer variant I'm making, and they really look good. But my printer is so small that I really see the need for either a custom extruder or for turning the extruder 90 degrees. So looking forward to the custom extruder :) ... I've attached a picture of my bot from above.
will you make a nema 17 model ?
If you check the SCAD file, you will see there are alternate settings in it for nema17 motors. The design is parametric, which means there are a lot of options to build it with different hardware. Until the design stops changing so much or I find an easier way to produce all of the STL files every time the design is updated, I'm not going to produce multiple STL distributions for the different hardware options, but you can always produce your own STLs from the SCAD file.
This looks awesome and I'm considering building one similar. I'm curious why you went with 6mm rods. My current and only printer is a prusa. I'd like my next build to be an advance in print quality and possibly build volume.
Do the 6mm rods provide enough support to maintain accuracy on tall prints? And, what is your Z length?
For my current build, I've got about 170mm available for building, though the rod lengths can easily be varied for a different size. I haven't had a chance to really put the machine through its paces, so I'm not sure if there are any stability issues left to fix. The X and Y axes are definitely stable at with 6mm rods, though it's possible that I'll want to switch to 8mm for the Z axis.
Possible to do nema17 and 608 bearings? I have an abundance of these around...
Nema 17 can be done, there are alternate settings for it in the scad file. 608 bearings are radial bearings. The axes in this need linear bearings, so they won't work. It would probably be possible to modify it to use 608 bearings instead of the 623 bearings in the idler pulleys, but it wouldn't be easy, and would require more types of non-printable parts.
I'm looking at swapping the threaded rod and the smooth rod, so that the smooth rod is on the outside. It hides the z-axis motors, which seems a bit nicer. Is that simple to change in your design for the x-end left and right?
I also wonder if it'd be possible to make an even more compact x-end with the stepper in the middle or something, but maybe that's not easily done. Maybe it's better the way you have it.
I've tried to design a more portable version, with the possibility of lifting the print bed. It's on http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ... it's not a derivative of your design, but for many of the components, if I end up printing it, I'd use your components I think. The lower parts are different, but the z-axis I would choose from you, I think.
Are your NEMA14s strong enough? I'd like to use that too.
The 20 oz*in NEMA14 I use (from Pololu) have more than enough torque. They meet the requirements for a full-sized Mendel, and my parts are much lighter.
I'll eventually get rid of the printrbot-style Y axis and replace it with another design I've been playing with for some time. This design will make the Y platform removable so that the machine can be made flat.
I like the update, also, it puts the strong direction of the print the direction where it will be most needed.
It's where it's needed most if the carriage and the extruder mount are one piece. With the two bolted together as I was planning before, it probably would have been stronger overall, but if you really need strength along the length of the carriage, you probably have bigger problems...
How is the snapfit for the linear bearings? and why is the hex tunnel open on for the z rod?
The hex tunnel is open for simple assembly/disassembly, and also to avoid an unnecessary bridge that might be challenging for poorly-calibrated machines.
If done right, a press fit can work well for linear bearings (I haven't tested these ones, but I've got an unrelated experimental part using it) but I'm trying to remove them in favor of something more robust. I'm about to upload an update replaces the X carriage with one that doesn't use press fits.
Niiiice! I like the way you made the blocks and bearing mounts. I was thinking 14's would be better for this design anyway. Now if you just had a simpler extruder...
A custom extruder is on the list, along with a completely new design for the Y axis (one I've been thinking about for a LONG time, but never got around to implementing). I wanted to get a working version as soon as possible, so I decided to just give it a mounting point for a standard mendel extruder.
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hi i have a problema attempt to get my 3d printer started, im using macht 3 whith the g code (from stl format) and theres a code i dont undestand G1 F1800.000 E-1.0000 where the program stops, i hope you can help me
That code means retract the filament by 1mm at 1800mm/min.